UnionSpecial 39500 Series Instruction sheet

®
FI NE ST QUALITY
S TYLES
395 00QW
395 00RG
395 00RH
CATALOG
No.
103QW
C 0 L U M B I A®
CLASS 39500
MARK IV HIGH SPEED
TWO NEEDLE FOUR THREAD
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
OVERSEAMING
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MACHINES
CD
SEAMING AND HEMMING MACHINES
UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION
CHICAGO
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Union Special is offering two practical systems to help pinpoint and
reduce
your sewing machine maintenance costs: a record keeping
system to help spot machines requiring abnormally
high maintenance,
and a parts inventory system to speed routine repairs.
Machine Maintenance Records
Repair-prone machines
or inexperienced competent operators can eat
up your maintenancedollarsin shortorder. To help spot these problems,
Union Special suggests two variations
of a simple maintenance
record keeping system using cards provided by
Union Special.
The first system utilizes a "Machine Maintenance Record" card
(Form 237) for each sewing machine in a plant. When a repair is
required, the card is pulled
from the file and the repair date, parts used,
andtheircost areenteredinthe spaces providedand thecard is refiled.
MACHINil MAIHTI"NAHC. RICOAD
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Thesecond system is normallyused when moredetailed information
on repair costs is desired. Two record cards are used: a "Repair
Request Card" (Form 234), and a "Machine Repair Record" (Form
233). When a machine requires service, the forelady or foreman fills
out the top of a "Repair Request Card" and gives it to a mechanic. He
fills in the.time the repair work is started, the parts used and their cost,
Part
Number
39520 w
39530
39597 w
39505 w
93 A
39526 w
22528
39524 w
22524
154 GAS
Description
Minimum Quantity
Per 5 Machines
Presser foot
Presser foot hinge spring
Stitch tongue marked "EF"
Main feed dog, 12 TPI,
marked "W"
Screw for main feed dog
Differential feed dog, 12 TPI,
marked "AT"
Screw for differential feed dog
Throat plate marked "AN"
Throat plate screw
Needles (specify size)
1
2 .
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
200
"The parts and quantities listed above are intended to assist vou in
setting up the initial inventory
of spare parts. An efficient inventory
can only be established according to actual usage. The nature of the
sewing operation
will determine actual usage.
and thecompletiontime.Thisdata is then transferred
to the permanent
"Machine Repair Record" kept in the office.
Whichever system is used, management now has an invaluable tool
to reduce needless maintenance costs.
Repair
Part Inventories
While record keeping tells management which machines require
abnormallyhighmaintenance, it doeslittletohelpreduce the downtime
caused by routine repairs. To alleviate this situation, Union Special
recommends that manufacturers establish a formal parts
inventory
system for each type of sewing machine they operate.
Excessive machine
downtime and wasted hours by mechanics can
be eliminated with an orderly in-plant inventory of the most commonly
needed parts. There is no longera need to cannibalize other machines
for spare parts. Long wa its for deliveries are avoided and machine
downtime is
kept to a minimum . The cost of a parts inventory is small
when the overall sav ings are considered.
MACHINII RCP'AIR RIICORD CAitO
..... :.
~::w
I RllJIAIR
RllQUUT CARD
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For free sample copies of the machine record cards and spare part
inventorylists
for a variety of the mostpopular machines, contact your
local Union Special Representative or write direct to Union Special.
Style 39500 QW
Sugge st ed Minimum §~»are Pa rts U at•
Part
Number
39570 J
14077
39549 J
22588 A
39508 B
39508 A
22564 G
39551 F
22596 E
21225-1/16
29484
Description
Upper knife
Minimum Quantity
Per 5 Machines
Nut for upper knife and needle
clamp
stud
4
2
Lower knife
Screw for lower knife clamp
Lower looper
Upper looper marked "CC"
Screw for upper looper
Needle clamp stud
Scr~w for needle driving arm
Looper gauge
Screw assortment
4
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

May, 1981
Catalog No. 103 QW
(Supplement to Catalog No. 103 QA)
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
ADJUSTING AND OPERATING
LIST OF PARTS
CLASS 39500
Styles
39500 QW
39500 RG
First Edition
Copyright@ 1973
by
39500 RH
Union Special Corporation
Rights Reserved in All Countries
UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
Printed in U.S.A.
3
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

IDENTIFICATION OF MACIDNES
Each UNION SPECIAL machine is identified by a Style number on a name plate
on the machine. Style numbers are classified as standard and sp·::!cial. Standard
Style numbers have one or more letters suffixed, but never contain the letter
11
Z
11
•
Example:
11
Style 39500 QW". Special Style numbers contain the letter
11
Z
11
• When
only minor changes are made in a standard machine, a "Z" is suffixed to the stand-
ard Style number. Example: "Style 39500 QWZ".
Styles of machines similar in construction are grouped under a Class number
which differs from the Style number in that it contains no letters. Example: "Class
39500".
APPLICATION OF CATALOG
This catalog is a supplement to Catalog No. 103 QA and should be used in con-
junction therewith. Only those parts used on Styles 3 9500 QW, RG and RH, but not
on Style 39500 QP are illustrated and listed at the back of this catalog. On the page
opposite the illustration will be found a listing of the parts with their part numbers,
description and the number of pieces required. Numbers in the first column are
reference numbers only, and merely indicate the position of that part in the ill us tra-
tion. Reference numbers should never be used in ordering parts. Always use the
part number listed in the second column.
This catalog applies specifically to the standard Styles of machines as listed
herein. It can also be applied with discretion to some Special Styles of machines in
Class 39500. References to directions, such as right, left, front, back, etc., are
given from the operator's position while seated at the machine. Operating direction
of handwheel is away from operator.
STYLES OF MACIDNES
MARK IV Hi -Styled High Speed, Two Curved Blade Needles, Two Loopers, Four
Thread Overseaming Machines. Differential Feed, Trimming Mechanism with Spring
Pressed Lower Knife, Automatic Lubricating System, Improved Air Cooling System.
39500 QW Medium to heavy duty machine for seaming medium to heavy weight
knitted and woven fabrics with a modified safety stitch. For operations on pa-
jamas, bathing suits, house dresses, children's wear, ladies' undergarments
and similar garments of light to medium heavy weight woven and knitted gar-
ments of wool, cotton, silk and synthetics. Seam specification 512-SSa -1.
Standard width of seam from left needle 17/64 inch (6. 75 mm). Stitch range,
8-20 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended
speed 7500 R. P. M.
39500 RG Medium to heavy duty machine for decorative hemming of medium weight
baby blankets and for similar operations on articles of medium weight woven
materials. Hem is turned up with the roll extending to the right needle. Adjust-
able turned up hemming scroll on right side of presser foot. Seam specification
514-EFe-1. Standard seam width from left needle approximately 17/64 inch
(6. 75 mm). Stitch range, 6-15 per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential
feeds. Maximum recommended speed 7000 R. P.M.
39500 RH Medium to heavy duty machine for seaming operations on coat linings,
pockets, bathing suits, house dresses, children's wear, ladies undergarments,
and similar garments of light to medium weight woven and knitted materials of
cotton, wool, silk and synthetics. Seam specification 514-SSa -1. Standard seam
width from left needle approximately 17 f64 inch (6. 75 mm). Stitch range, 6-15
per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended
speed 7500 R. P.M.
NOTE: On Styles 39500 RG and RH, the upper looper thread is caught by both needles.
4
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SPEED RECOMMENDATION
39500 MARK IV machines have been tested in their complete stitch range at their
maximum rated speeds. Varied field conditions, severity and cleanliness of the sew-
ing operation may necessitate operating at a lower speed. When operating from 50-100%
machine running cycle and a longer than recommended stitch length, it may be neces-
sary to reduce the machine's speed by 10-15%.
The MARK IV is a precision manufactured and tested sewing machine. To obtain
maximum performance, the machine should be operated at 1000 R.P.M. below maximum re-
commended speed for the first 20 days of field operation. This will minimize read-
justment of precision mechanisms.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was drained from machine when shipped, so reservoir must be filled
before beginning to operate. Oil capacity of Class 39500 is eight ounces. A straight
mineral oil of Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100° Fahrenheit should be
used.
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oil level is checked at
sight gauge on front of machine. Red bulb on oil level indicator should show between
gauge lines when machine is stationary.
Machine is automatically lubricated. No oiling is necessary, other than keeping
main reservoir filled. Check oil daily before the morning start; add oil as required.
To maintain maximum recommended speed and serviceability of this equipment when
operating continuously, the oil must be changed at least every six months. In no case
should oil remain in machine for more than one year.
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of base.
It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials which may
have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodically.
NEEDLES
Each needle has both a type and size number. The type number denotes the kind of
shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size number, stamped on
the needle shank,denotes largest diameter of blade, measured midway between shank and
eye. Collectively, type and size number represent the complete symbol which is given
on the label of all needles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended needle
for the machines covered in this catalog is Type 154 GAS. Below is the description
and sizes available of the recommended needle.
Type No.
154 GAS
Description and Sizes
Round shank, round point, curved blade, standard length, single groove,
struck groove, spotted, chromium plated and is available in sizes
055/022, 065/025, 070/027, 075/029, 080/032, 090/036, 100/040, 110/044,
125/049, 140/054, 150/060.
To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a sample
needle, or the type and size number should be forwarded. Use description on label. A
complete order would read: "1000 Needles, Type 154 GAS, Size 090/036".
5
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

NEEDLES (Continued)
Selection of proper needle size is determined by size of thread used. Thread
should pass freely through needle eye in order to produce a good stitch formation.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushing
(AG, Fig. 1) and swing presser arm (U) out of position. Turn handwheel in operating
direction until needles are'at their lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket
wrench No. 21388 AU, furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4 turn.
Again turn handwheel until needles are at their highest position. Withdraw needles.
To replace needles, leave needle holder at high position and with the flats to
the left, insert needles in holder until they rest against stop pin. Keeping needles
in this position, turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel;
then tighten nut. Return presser arm (U) to position; re-lock presser foot release
bushing (AG) . '
THREAD STAND
After thread comes from cones on cone support (A, Fig. 1), the needle threads
are threaded through the back bar of the thread eyelet (B), under the middle bar and
through the center holes of the front bar. The looper threads come from the cones,
through holes of the middle bar from back to front and then through the two outside
holes of the front bar. Next it is threaded through the upper holes of tension thread
guide (C) front to back and then through the lower holes from back to front. The
threads continue between tension discs (J), through tension post slot (K) in tension
post (G) and on through front thread guide (M).
THREADING
Only parts involved in threading are shown in the threading diagram (Fig. 1).
Parts are placed in their relative positions for clarity.
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended se-
quence of threading lower looper first, upper looper second, and the needles third.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open, turn handwheel in operating
direction until needles (X) are in high position, release pressure on presser foot by
turning presser foot release bushing (AG), and swing presser arm (U) out of position.
Be sure the threads, as they come from the tension thread guide (C), are between
the tension discs (J) and in tension post slot (K) in tension post (G). TQe tension
posts should be positioned so the tension post slot will be at the approximate angle
for the different threads as indicated in Fig. 1.
6
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

TO THREAD LOWER LOOPER
Double end of thread and lead it through both eyes of lower looper thread eyelet
(R, Fig. 1) from right to left. NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper thread
pull-off (AF). Lead thread behind fabric guard (S) and through eyelet hole of frame
looper thread guide (T). Turn handwheel in operating direction until heel of lower
looper (V) is all the way to the left; then thread through both eyes from left to right.
Left eye of lower looper can be threaded easily if tweezers are in left hand.
TO THREAD UPPER LOOPER
Turn handwheel until point of upper looper (W) is all the way left. Lead thread
through auxiliary looper thread eyelet (P) from back to front, then through both
eyes of upper looper thread eyelet (N) from left to right. NOTE: Thread must pass
in front of looper thread pull-off (AF). After pulling up upper looper thread tube
assembly (AA), lead thread under neck of top cover casting and down through thread
tube assembly (AA). Pull thread out bottom of tube; push tube down, then insert
thread through upper looper eye from front to back.
CAUTION! Be sure upper looper thread is under lower looper thread when
passing from tube assembly to upper looper eye.
TO THREAD THE NEEDLES
Turn handwheel in operating direction until needles (X, Fig. 1) are at their
highest position. Insert both needle threads from right to left, through both eyes of
needle thread eyelet (AD), under neck of top cover casting; and down through holes
in top cover needle thread eyelet (AC). The right needle thread should be threaded
through the right hole and the left needle thread through the left hole of the top cover
needle thread eyelet. Thread needles from the front.
7
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(j]Tension Nut
IITension Spring
[!]Tension Post ----'
IIJspring Shield
OTension Discs : ~-~ - /
~~Tension Post Slot·. --...
II Tension Disc Felt·· ..
riJ Front Thread Guide
IIJ Upper Looper Thread Eyelet
I:JLower Looper Thread Eyelet
BJFabric Guard Bracket
~--
OFrame Looper
Thread Guide
m Presser Arm
FOR STYLES 39500 QW, RG and RH
8
Top Cover
~"1·~ .._;4..fijiP1 1ri~~INeedle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
~Upper Looper
Fig. 1
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THREAD TENSION
The amount of tension on the needle and looper threads is regulated by knurled
tension nuts (D, Fig. 1). Tension on threads should be only enough to secure proper
stitch formation.
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
Sufficient presser foot pressure to feed work uniformly
should be maintained. Should it be necessary to increase or
decrease amount of pressure on presser foot, loosen lock
nut (A, Fig. 2) and turn adjusting screw (B). Adjusting
screw has a right hand thread so tightening increases pres-
sure, loosening decreases pressure. When pressure adjust-
ing screw (B) has been properly set, tighten lock nut (A).
With presser foot resting on throat plate, position locking
nut (C) so that its under surface is approximately 1/3 2
to 1/16 inch (. 79 to 1. 59 mm) from the top surface of ad-
justing screw (B). Set cap (D) against locking nut (C).
Fig. 2
FEED ECCENTRICS
Feed eccentrics used in machine Styles 39500 QW and RH have been selected
to produce approximately 10 stitches per inch. On machine Style 39500 RG, the
feed eccentrics have been selected to produce approximately 8 stitches per inch.
It will be noted that on Styles 39500 QW and RH, the part number of the main feed
eccentric is No. 39540 B-12, while the part number of the differential feed eccentric
is No. 39540 B-10. On Style 39500 RG, the part number ofboth the main and differ-
ential feed eccentric is No. 39540 B-8. Minor numbers of the part symbol indicate
approximately the number of stitches obtainable when using that eccentric. Unless
otherwise specified, machines will be shipped with the above combination of eccen-
tries.
Generally speaking, differential (right hand) feed eccentric determines number
of stitches produced. Main (left hand) feed eccentric is selected in relation to de-
gree and direction of stretch of material being sewn, or type of operation.
Following stitch number feed eccentrics are available under No. 39540 B-4, -5,
-6, -7, -8, -9, -10, -11, -12, -13, -14, -15, -16, -18, -20, -22, -24, -26, -28,
-30, -32, -34, -36, -40, -50, -60, -70, -100. Only two eccentrics are supplied
with each machine. Additional eccentrics may be ordered separately. To order,
use No. 39540 B with a minor number suffixed to indicate number of stitches de-
sired. Example: "39540 B-10".
Fig. 3
ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS
Before assembling and adjusting sewing parts, remove
cloth plate, fabric guard, chip guard, upper knife assembly,
lower knife holder assembly. Then follow this suggested se-
quence:
SETTING THE NEEDLES
With throat plate assembled in position, needles should
center in the front end of needle slots. When needles are at
high position, needle points should be set 31/64 inch (12.30
mm) above throat plate (Fig. 3). To align needles or set the
height above the throat plate, move needle driving arm (A,
Fig. 3) by loosening clamp screw (B). Remove throat plate,
after needles have been set properly and clamp screw (B) has
been tightened.
9
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Fig. 4
SETTING THE NEEDLES {Continued)
If needle thread cam pull-off {A, Fig. 4) over-
laps looper thread pull-off (B), separate by moving
looper thread pull-off back. When retightening
looper pull-off screw, be sure to take up end play
in needle driving arm.
At this point, insert lower looper {A, Fig. 5)
into bar (B). With the lower looper at the left end
of its stroke, set looper point 1/16 inch (1. 59 mm)
from center of left needle (Fig. 5), using looper
gauge No. 21225-1/16. Do not have lower looper
deflecting needle. Tighten nut (C).
Now assemble differential (front) feed dog.
SETTING THE REAR NEEDLE GUARD
Set rear needle guard (A, Fig. 6) as high as possi-
ble, without interfering with either lower looper or
movement of lower knife holder, but still in position
to deflect needles forward . 002-. 004 inch (. 051-. 102
mm). Screw (B) is used to set rear needle guard. Make
sure there is no interference between rear needle
guard and lower looper.
SETTING THE LOWER LOOPER
Fig. 5
Now, finish lower looper adjustment. As lower looper moves to the right, its
point should be set into the scarf of the left needle (A, Fig. 7} until the needles
spring forward from rear guard sur-
face another . 00 2-. 004 inch (. 0 51-
. 102 mm).
SETTING THE FRONT NEEDLE GUARD
Assemble front needle guard (C,
Fig. 6). When lower looper is spring-
ing needles off rear needle guard, set
front needle guard as close as possi-
ble to needles without touching. Screw
(D) is used to adjust and set front
needle guard. After this setting, make
sure there is no interference between
needle guards and differential feed dog.
SETTING THE UPPER LOOPER
Fig. 7
Fig. 6 Insert upper looper {A, Fig. 8) in its holder. Screw (B)
holds the upper looper in its holder and permits it to be
pushed in or out, or turned around its shank. Insert upper
looper holder into upper looper shaft, if it is not already in place. Screw (C, Fig.
8) in, clamp holds the upper looper holder in the shaft. Locate upper looper in its
holder so that the shank extends 1/8 inch (3. 17 mm} beyond holder (Fig. 8), for
Styles 39500 RG and RH; 1/16 to 3/32 inch (1. 59 to 2. 38 mm} for Style 39500 QW.
10
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

SETTING THE UPPER LOOPER (Continued)
When the upper looper is at the right end of its stroke, upper looper holder
should be set to position upper looper shank slightly back of vertical (Fig. 8).
Be sure there is a clearance between heel of looper and
casting. By adjusting looper holder in or out of upper looper
shaft and by turning the looper around its shank, set upper
looper point to cross lower looper to the left of the lower
looper eye with . 002 to . 004 inch (. 051 to . 102 mm) clear-
ance (Fig. 9).
Next, turn the handwheel until the upper looper is at the
left end of its travel. On Style 39500 QW, check dimensions
of upper looper point with respect to the RIGHT needle and
throat plate (Fig. 10). Looper point should be 9164 inch (3. 57
mm) to the left of centerline of RIGHT needle and 17132 inch
(13. 49 mm) above throat plate (Fig. 10). On Styles 39500 RG
and RH, check dimensions of upper looper point with respect
Fig. 8
to the LEFT needle and throat plate. Looper point should be 3I 16 inch ( 4. 76 mm) to
the left of centerline of LEFT needle and 39164 inch (15. 48 mm) above throat plate.
Fig. 9
If resetting is necessary, do it by moving
the upper looper holder (A, Fig. 10).
NOTE: Figure 10 represents the correct
dimensional settings for Style 39500 QW
only.
D i m e n s i on 17I32 inch ( 13. 49 mm)
or 39164 inch (15. 48 mm) is increased by
turning upper looper holder counterclock-
wise looking from left end of machine. Di-
mension 9164 inch (3. 57 mm) or 3116 inch
(4. 76 mm) is increased by pulling upper
looper holder to the left, out of the upper
looper shaft. After these changes are
made, it may be necessary to turn the
upper looper around its shank slightly to
Fig. 10
maintain the condition shown in Fig. 9.
Check setting to avoid interference between upper looper and needle on needle
downstroke. If needle rubs the back of upper looper, pull looper out of its holder
slightly and rotate looper a short distance counterclockwise, looking from left end
of machine. Reset to maintain machine dimensions specified relative to Figs. 9 and
10.
Fig. 11
On Style 39500 QW only, a quick check of correct settings
can be noted as follows: As upper looper is moving to the right
and the upper looper eye centers on the RIGHT needle, the eyes
of the upper looper and needle should align exactly (Fig. 11).
SETTING THE FEED DOGS
Assemble the main and differential feed dogs (A, B, Fig.
12). Main and differential feed dogs should be leveled with re-
spect to the throat plate by rotating feed tilting adjusting pin
(C). This pin raises or lowers the back end of feed bar.
The feed dogs should be set level at the time the teeth first
appear above the throat plate. Screw (D, Fig. 12) locks feed
11
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SETTING THE FEED DOGS (Continued}
tilting adjusting pin in place. With the feed dogs at their highest point of travel, the
top of the teeth on the main and differential feed dogs (A, B) should be 3/64 inch
(1. 19 mm) above the throat plate. The chaining feed dog is made as an integral part
of the main feed dog.
SETTING THE LOWER KNIFE
Fig. 12
R e p 1a c e 1 ow e r knife holder
assembly. Lower knife (A, Fig. 13)
should be set with cutting edge flush
with throat plate surface. Adjust-
ments are made with hexagonal head
screw which h o 1d slower knife.
Lower knife is spring pressed
against upper knife, so no lateral
adjustment is necessary when width
of trim is changed.
Lower knife may be secured in any position by tightening screw (B) and locking
nut (C) against support bracket. Because screw (B) also serves as latch pin for the
cloth plate latch spring, it should always be locked with
nut (C) even when screw is not tightened against lower
knife holder.
SETTING THE UPPER KNIFE
Replace upper knife assembly. Clamp upper knife
(D, Fig. 13) in position, setting nut (E) to hold clamp
(F) in its most clockwise position against upper knife.
Upper knife chain guard (J) should be positioned so that
the guarding section is approximately 1f64 inch(. 40 mm)
behind the cutting edge and in contact with the top surface
of the upper knife.
At the bottom of its stroke, front cutting edge of upper
knife should extend not less than 1/64 inch(. 40 mm) below
the cutting edge of lower knife.
After upper knife has been set for the proper width
of trim, screw (G) must be tightened to lock the upper
knife holding block (H) in place. This will simplify reset-
ting when upper knife is replaced.
Fig. 14
SETTING THE
STITCH LENGTH
Length of stitch
is determined by the
combination of feed
e c c e n t r i c s used •
Outer (left) eccen-
tric (A, Fig. 14) ac-
tuates main (rear)
feed dog; while the
inner (right) eccen-
tric (B) actuates the
differential ( front)
feed dog.
12
Fig. 13
Fig. 15
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH (Continued)
In assembling the feed eccentrics, be sure hubs are facing each other. Be careful
not to damage shaft or key. Tighten nut (C) securely.
To change feed eccentrics, remove nut (C) and washer (D) from end of shaft (E).
Turn handwheel in operating direction until key slot in eccentric is toward the front.
Using hooked eccentric extractor (F), supplied with machine .. reach behind eccentrics
as shown and withdraw eccentrics. It may be necessary to move handwheel back and
forth slightly during extraction.
If eccentrics are unusually tight fitting, in addition to removing nut (C) and
washer (D, Fig. 15) from shaft (E), it may be helpful to remove nut (G) and feed
driving connection (H). Then continue as originally suggested.
SETTING THE PRESSER FOOT
Assemble the presser foot to presser arm. With needles in high position, swing
presser arm (U, Fig. 1) into sewing position and set the presser foot to align needle
holes (front and back) and flat on throat plate. The front edge of needle hole in presser
foot must be aligned withfront edge of needlehole in throat plate. It is also import-
ant that the bottom of the presser foot be flat on the throat plate. If necessary,
presser foot can be realigned with throat
plate slots by shifting the foot lifter lever
shaft (H, Fig. 16). To move the shaft, loosen
collar screws (B, Fig. 16) and clamp screw
(G) and then shift the foot lifter lever shaft to
the left or right as required. Retighten col-
lar screws and clamp screw.
The foot lifter lever arm (A, Fig. 16)
and the collar (B) secure the shaft. Be sure
the presser arm does not bind and rise when
presser foot release bushing is unlocked. To
center presser foot and stitch tongue with
respect to throat plate needle hole, loosen
presser foot hinge screw.
Adjust lifter lever stop screw (C) so that Fig. 16
presser foot can be raised no higher than
upper looper will permit; then lock the nut (D). To find this maximum safe position,
turn the handwheel so point of upper looper is directly over presser foot tongue.
Raise presser foot by depressing the presser foot treadle and manually lower the
toe of presser foot. Height adjustment is correct if presser foot tongue does not
contact the upper looper. There should be from 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1. 59 to 3. 17 mm)
free motion of foot lifter lever before the presser foot begins to rise. This adjust-
ment is made with screw (E) and locked with nut (F).
Re-assemble chip guard, fabric guard and cloth plate. To make assembly of
chip guard easy, turn handwheel until upper knife assembly reaches its highest
position.
STARTING TO OPERATE
Be sure machine is threaded according to threading diagram (Fig. 1). With
thread tensions light, set looper thread eyelets (N and R, Fig. 1) about horizontal
and in the middle of their front to back locations. Operate machine slowly, without
presser foot in place, to make sure that chain forms and moves off the tongue
freely. Swing presser foot into position, insert material, and sew slowly.
13
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NEEDLE THREAD CONTROL
While sewing on material, check needle thread control as follows: Usually all
needle thread is drawn on needle down stroke. At top of needle stroke, thread
should be just tight enough to feed chain off stitch tongue. Stitch tends to pull down
slightly if excessive thread is pulled on the up stroke. With needle at bottom of
stroke, position needle thread eyelet (AD, Fig. 1) so that needle cam pull-off (AE)
just contacts needle thread.
LOWER LOOPER THREAD CONTROL
With material under presser foot, set lower looper thread eyelet (R, Fig. 1)
back far enough so thread is a little slack when looper thread pull-off (AF) reaches
its most rearward position. Looper thread pull-off (AF) is set about 1/8 inch (3.17
mm) distance behind needle thread cam pull-off (AE). Frame looper thread guide
(T) should be set with its eyelet approximately 1/8 inch (3. 17 mm) to the right of
lower looper (V) heel eyelet at the time lower looper is at extreme left end of its
travel.
While sewing on material, check drawing off of looper thread as follows: A
portion of lower looper thread should be drawn through the tension before lower
looper thread comes off upper looper. To increase amount of thread drawn through
the tension while lower looper thread is on upper looper, move lower looper thread
eyelet (R) down, keeping the same amount of pull-off action.
UPPER LOOPER THREAD CONTROL
Before proceeding to adjust upper looper thread eyelet (N, Fig. 1) balance all
four tensions to give a normal appearing stitch. Moderate change in these tensions
will not markedly affect the purl.
During needle down stroke, forward stroke of looper thread pull-off (AF) will
draw upper looper thread through the tension. When normal amount of looper thread
is drawn, upper looper thread will have almost all slack taken up as looper thread
pull-off reaches its most rearward position.
POSITIONING THE PURL
To move the purl more under the edge, both looper thread eyelets (N and R,
Fig. 1) should be raised keeping the same amount of pull-off. Usually it is better
to have slightly more pull-off on upper thread than on lower thread.
If it becomes necessary to move looper thread pull-off (AF), be sure to take up
all end play in needle drive shaft before tightening. If upper looper is located so
that it is higher over throat plate than recommended in (Fig. 10), the purl will tend
to form near the top edge. If upper looper is too low, the purl will form nearer the
bottom edge.
14
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

THREAD TENSIONS
The needle thread tension required is a function of needle thread and material
being sewn. In general, lower looper thread tension should be set as high as possi-
ble without causing needle thread to be pulled down. Upper looper thread tension
Fig. 17
should be increased as long as the elasticity of the chain
increases, or until the purl is pulled too far over the
top. Keep tensions as light as possible and use eyelets
and take-ups to get the proper stitch.
CLOTH PLATE REMOVAL AND ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: When removing the cloth plate (A, Fig. 17) loosen
the cloth plate stud locking screw (B) and lift up cloth
plate with the cloth plate stud (C) and cloth plate screw
(D), assembled.
In assembly, the cloth plate screw and the cloth plate
stud are tightened to the point of removing all play and
yet turn in cloth plate. The cloth plate is then assembled
to the machine with the flat and "V" slot of the cloth
plate stud (C) towards the rear. Stud locking screw (B) is
tightened securely which collapses the body of the stud to
the screw (D) so that only the cloth plate will turn when
opening or closing.
ILLUSTRATIONS AND ORDERING REPAIR PARTS
Numbers in the first column are reference numbers only, and merely indicate the
position of that part in the illustration. Reference number should never be used in
ordering parts. Always use the part number listed in the second column.
IDENTIFYING PARTS
Where the construction permits, each part is stamped with its part number. On
some of the smaller parts, and on those where construction does not permit, an iden-
tification letter is stamped in to distinguish the part from similar ones.
PART NUMBERS REPRESENT THE SAME PART, REGARDLESS OF CATALOG IN WHICH THEY AP-
PEAR.
USE GENUINE REPAIR PARTS
Success in the operation of these machines can be secured only with genuine
UNION SPECIAL Repair Parts as furnished by the Union Special Corporation, its
subsidiaries and authorized distributors. They are designed according to the most
approved scientific principles, and are made with utmost precision. Maximum effi-
ciency and durability are assured.
TERMS
Prices are net cash and subject to change without notice. All shipments are
forwarded f.o.b. shipping point. Parcel post shipments are insured unless otherwise
directed. A charge is made to cover postage and insurance.
I
15
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

2
12--._. /
~:~~ · ~ 15
u o
20 ' "
19~~<1> ~ 16
Q 18
Q
32
16
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

The parts illustrated on pages 16 and 18 and described on this page and page 19 represent the
parts that are used on Styles 39500 QW, RG and RH, but not used on Style 39500 QP.
Unless otherwise specified in the description, thE' parts are used on all the machine styles
covered in this catalog. Those parts shown in phantom views and bearing no reference numbers
are common to Styles 39500 QP, QW, RG and RH.
Use Catalog No. 103 QA (Style 39500 QP) for all parts not illustrated or described in this catalog.
Reference numbers that are inside a bracket or box on the picture plates and have indented
descriptions, indicate they are components of a complete part or assembly.
Ref.
No.
Part
No.
1 21101 H-4
2 21114 H-4
3 22651 CD-4
4 21104 v
5 21114 w
6 258 A
7 21114
8 652-16
9 21114 S-4
10 21114 D-4
11 22651 CD-5
12 21104 B-20
13 21104 H
14 652-16
15 21114U
16 21114 T
17 22651 CD-4
18 22810
19 21114 A
20 22651 CD-4
21 39568 T
39568 L
22 39568 s
39568 B
23
39568 u
39568 E
24
39540 B-12
39540 B-8
25 39540 B-10
39540 B-8
26 39526 w
39526 z
27 39505 w
39505 z
28 39520 AG
29
39597 AG
30 39530
31 22768 B
32 39556 E
39556 F
33 39556 K
34 22704
35 39501 DC
~·36 39501 EC
37 39520 w
38 22768 B
39 39530
40 39597 w
41 to 87
Description
Amt.
Req.
Thread Stand, complete ----------------------------------------- 1
Eyelet Support---------------------------------------------- 1
Screw, for eyelet support-------------------------------- 1
Pad, for thread cone---------------------------------------- 4
Spool Pin -------------------------------------------------- 4
Nut, for spool pin------------------------------------------- 8
Spool Seat Disc--------------------------------------------- 4
Washer, for spool seat disc---------------------------------- 4
Lead Eyelet------------------------------------------------ 1
Spool Seat Support ------------------------------------------ 1
Screw, for spool seat support---------------------------- 2
Thread Stand Rod------------------------------------------- 1
Nut, for lead eyelet ball split socket-------------------------- 1
Washer, for lead eyelet ball split socket ---------------------- 1
Lead Eyelet Ball Split Socket--------------------------------- 2
Lead Eyelet Socket Ball ------------------------------------- 1
Screw, for lead eyelet socket ball------------------------ 1
Screw, for lead eyelet ball split socket------------------------ 1
Thread Stand Base------------------------------------------ 1
Screw for thread stand base------------------------------ 1
Upper Looper Thread Eyelet, for Styles 39500 RG and RH----------- 1
Upper Looper Thread Eyelet, for Style 39500 QW ------------------ 1
Lower Looper Thread Eyelet, for Styles 39500 RG and RH ---------- 1
Lower Looper Thread Eyelet, for Style 39500 QW ------------------ 1
Auxiliary Looper Thread Eyelet, for Styles 39500 RG and RH-------- 1
Auxiliary Looper Thread Eyelet, for Style 39500 QW --------------- 1
Main Feed Driving Eccentric, for Styles 39500 QW and RH ---------- 1
Main Feed Driving Eccentric, for Style 39500 RG ------------------ 1
Differential Feed Driving Eccentric, for Styles 39500 QW and RH ---- 1
Differential Feed Driving Eccentric, for Style 39500 RG ------------ 1
Differential Feed Dog, marked "AT", 12 teeth per inch, for
Styles 39500 QW and RG---------------------------------------- 1
Differential Feed Dog, marked "AU", 22 teeth per inch, for
Style 39500 RH ------------------------------------------------ 1
Main Feed Dog, marked "W", 12 teeth per inch, for Styles
39500 QW and RG---------------------------------------------- 1
Main Feed Dog, marked "AC", 22 teeth per inch, for Style
39500 RH----------------------------------------------------- 1
Presser Foot, for Style 39500 RG -------------------------------- 1
Stitch Tongue, marked "EM"--------------------------------- 1
Hinge Spring ----------------------------------------------- 1
Screw, for hinge spring and stitch tongue---------------------- 1
Presser Arm, for Style 39500 RG -------------------------------- 1
Presser Arm, for Styles 39500 QW and RH ------------------------ 1
Chain Cutting Knife, marked "J" --------------------------------- 1
Screw, for chain cutting knife------------------------------------ 1
Cloth Plate, for semi or fully submerged installation--------------- 1
Cloth Plate, for non-submerged installation----------------------- 1
Presser Foot, for Styles 39500 QW and RH------------------------ 1
Screw, for hinge spring and stitch tongue---------------------- 1
Hinge Spring ----------------------------------------------- 1
Stitch Tongue, marked "EF" --------------------------------- 1
See following page
* Will be furnished in place of No. 39501 DC if non-submerged installation is specified.
17
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

2
9 77~
18
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Ref.
P art
No. No.
-1
to 40
41 39580 E
42
39580 AE
43
39582 GG
44
39582 J
45 39582 H
46
22585 G
47
39525 M
48
39525 p
49
39524 w
50 39524 AG
51
39524 z
52
39550 p
39550 E
53
39550 R
39550 c
54 39549 J
55 39550 u
56
39570 J
57
39572 A
39572
58
39571 c
39571 D
59
154 GAS
60
39552 AC
61 14077 A
62
39551 G
63
22596 E
64 61351
K-625
65 39551 J
66
39508 c
39508 A
67
39563 u
39563 H
68
39578 u
69
39563 w
70
39592 AG-5
71
39592 AN
72
8372 A
73
39592 AH
74
39592 AL
75
39592 AF
76
39592 AD
77
39592 AR-4
39592 AR-8
78
39592 AK
79 39592 z
39592 AA
39592 AB
39592 AC
80
39582 AK
81
22562 A
82 39582 w
83 51-103 Blk.
84
39582 AG
85 39582 v
86
39582 AF
Description
See preceding page
Shim, . 028 inch (. 71 mm) , for throat plate and lower
Amt.
Req.
knife support bracket -------------------------------- 1
Throat Plate and Lower Knife Support Bracket----------- 1
Side Cover ------------------------------------------- 1
Rivet-------------------------------------------- 2
Spring ------------------------------------------- 1
Latch Screw, for side cover---------------------------- 1
Needle Guard, front----------------------------------- 1
Needle Guard rear ----------------------------------- 1
Throat Plate ,' marked "AN", for Style 39500 QW --------- 1
Throat Plate, for Style 39500 RG ----------------------- 1
Throat Plate, marked "AU", for Style 39500 RH --------- 1
Knife Holder Spring, for Style 39500 RG ----------------- 1
Knife Holder Spring, for Styles 39500 QW and RH -------- 1
Lower Knife Holder Locating Stud, for Style 39500 RG ---- 1
Lower Knife Holder Lo~ating Stud, for Styles 39500 QW
and RH--------------------------------------------- 1
Lower Knife------------------------------------------ 1
Lower Knife Holder ----------------------------------- 1
Upper Knife ------------------------------------------ 1
Upper Knife Holder Block, for Style 39500 RG ----------- 1
Upper Knife Holder Block, for Styles 39500 QW and RH --- 1
Upper Knife Clamp Stud, for Style 39500 RG ------------- 1
Upper Knife Clamp Stud, for Styles 39500 QW and RH----- 1
Needle----------------------------------------------- 2
Needle Driving Arm, marked "N" -----:------------------ 1
Nut,
for needle clamp stud------------------------- 1
Needle Spacer ------------------------------------ 1
Clamp Screw ------------------------------------- 1
Pin---------------------------------------------- 1
Needle Clamp Stud -------------------------------- 1
Upp · er Looper, marked "CJ", for Styles 39500 RG and
RH------------------------------------------------- 1
Upper Looper, marked" CC ", for Style 39500 QW -------- 1
Needle Thread Eyelet, for Styles 39500 RG and RH ------- 1
Needle Thread Eyelet, for Style 39500 QW --------------- 1
Chip Guard------------------------------------------- 1
Top Cover Needle Thread Eyelet ----------------------- 1
Tension Post Mounting Bracket------------------------- 1
Tension Post Bar ------------------------------------- 1
Washer, for tension post ------------------------------ 4
Nut,
for thread tension post---------------------------- 4
Tension Post ----------------------------------------- 4
Tension Disc Felt------------------------------------ ~ 4
Tension Disc ----------------------------------------- 8
Looper Thread Tension Spring ------------------------- 2
Needle Thread Tension Spring-------------------------- 2
Tension Spring Ferrule-------------------------------- 4
Left Needle Thread Tension Nut, yellow----------------- 1
Right Needle Thread Tension Nut, g reen----------------- 1
Upper Looper Thread Tension Nut, blue----------------- 1
Lower Looper Thread Tension Nut, red ----------------- 1
Top Cover-------------------------------------------- 1
Screw, for oil guard ------------------------------ 1
Oil Guard---------------------------------------- 1
Hinge Pin ---------------------------------------- 1
Hinge Bracket------------------------------------ 1
Spring ------------------------------------------- 1
Oil Filler Cover---------------------------------- 1
19
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

'
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WORLD'S FINEST QUALITY
*
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
UNION SPECIAL maintains sales and service
facilities throughout the world. These offices
will
aid you in the selection of the right sewing
equipment for your particular operation. Union
Special representatives
and service men are fac-
tory trained
and are able to serve your needs
promptly
and efficiently. Whatever your loca-
tion, there
is a Union Special Representative to
serve you. Check with him today.
ATLANTA, GA.
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ILL.
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Y.
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Representatives and distributors In all Important
Industrial cities throughout the world.
UNION SPECIAL CORPORATION
400 N. FRANKLIN ST., CHICAGO, ILL. 60610
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC