Vanguard Sunfish Quick start guide

A RIGGING GUIDE
FOR A BOAT SO EASY TO RIG,
IT BARELY NEEDS ONE.
1Vang 12/5/07 12:20 PM Page 1

Gudgeon
Traveler Daggerboard Well
Automatic Bailer
Cockpit
Hiking Strap Drain Plug
Coaming
Bullseye Fairlead
Mast Step
Horn Cleat
Bow Handle
Stern
C
ongratulations on the purchase of your new Sunfish! We suggest that you read through this
g
uide to better familiarize yourself with the parts and rigging of your new boat. If you have any
q
uestions please contact your dealer or call Vanguard’s customer service at 1-800-966-SAIL.
Daggerboard
Upper Boom
Mainsheet
Halyard
Rudder
Lower Boom
Mast
Bow
P
arts of the Hull:
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 2

Useful knots to
know:
Figure 8 Knot or
Stopper Knot
Square Knot
Bowline
Cleat
Clove Hitch
Nautical Terminology:
Port: Left side of the boat when looking forward
Starboard: Right side of the boat when looking forward
Gunwale: Upper edge of a boat’s side
Leeward: Direction away from the wind
Windward: Direction from which the wind is coming
S Hook
Interlocking Eye Bolts
Mast Cap
Sail Gooseneck
Corner Ties
Sail Rings
Grommet
Mainsheet
Mast
Head of the
Sail
Parts of the Sail:
Clew of
the Sail
Tack of
the Sail
Leech
Luff
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 3

The Sunfish is available in two models; Standard and Pro. The Pro model comes with equipment
most commonly used for racing.
1
. Daggerboard, plastic
2
. Tiller with extension (33”)
3
. Colored sail
4
. Rudder, wood
5
. Line bag
6
. Sail rings
7
. Mainsheet ratchet block
8
. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle
1. Daggerboard, plastic
2. Tiller with extension (36”)
3. White race sail
4. Wind indicator
5. Rudder, FRP
6. Line bag
7. Harken mainsheet ratchet block and compression spring
8. Bailer parts, Brummel hooks (2), Snap shackle
Standard Sunfish Delivery Kit: Pro Sunfish Delivery Kit:
F
igure 1 Figure 2
F
irst: Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you have purchased (Pro or Standard) there will be a few differences in some of the
h
ardware. Using Figure 1 or 2, identify the contents of your kit. To avoid damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the packaging
nside the box.
1. S hook
2. Brummel hook (2)
3. Snap shackle
4. Bailer o-ring
5. Bailer cap
6. Bailer plug
7. Bailer housing
Contents of item # 8
7.
6.
8.
4.
3.
5.2.1.
8.
6.
5.
4.
3.
2.
7.
1.
5.
1.
2.
3.
4.
6.
7.
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 4

Here is a list of tools
that we recommended
you have to assist you
in assembling your
new Sunfish:
Sunfish Mast Kit:
Locate the mast, upper and lower boom. The upper and lower boom will be connected at one end with
two interlocking eye bolts (Figure 3). The gooseneck (Figure 4) will come assembled on the lower
boom. Depending on the model that you purchased the gooseneck bolt may differ in appearance. On
the Sunfish Pro model the gooseneck comes equipped with a quick adjust lever (Figure 5). This lever
can easily be released in order to adjust the positioning of the gooseneck on the lower boom. Also
located on the Sunfish Pro lower boom are two outhaul clam cleats (Figure 6).
Be sure to remove any bubble wrap and plastic coating before rigging.
Sunfish Mast Kit Standard: Sunfish Mast Kit Pro:
Figure: 4
Figure: 5
Figure: 3
Pro Mast and Boom Set
Figure: 6
Standard Mast and Boom Set
Interlocking eye bolts
Cleats
Electrical Tape
Screw Drivers
Wrenches
Utility Knife
Pliers
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 5

1. Locate the bailer o-ring (a), cap (b), plug
(c) and housing (d) from the delivery kit
(Figure 7).
2. Fit the bailer cap into the hole of the plug
so that the plug stopper faces upward
(Figure 8). Fold the rubber plug over the cap
to close (Figure 9).
3. Locate the bailer housing and o-ring
(Figure 10). Place the o-ring over the neck of
the bailer and push it down completely
(Figure 11).
4. Locate the bailer opening in the cockpit
(Figure 12). Take the bailer housing with
o-ring and place it under the hull, sliding it
up through the cockpit. Make sure that the
ball in the housing is facing towards the stern
of the boat (Figure 13).
5. While holding the housing in place, thread
the bailer cap through the cockpit hole and
into the bailer housing. Tighten the bailer so
that it is hand tight.
6. When open, the stopper of the bailer plug
should lie on the cockpit floor pointing
towards the bow (Figure 14).
Bailer Installation:
Reminder: The bailer lets water out of the
cockpit while you are sailing. Insert the bailer
plug in the cap before launching and during
sailing (Figure 15). If the cockpit begins to
collect water open the bailer to release the
water. Note: the boat needs to be moving
quickly in order to allow the water to release
and not take on more water at the same time.
Note: The bailer will not sit flush to the
bottom of the hull.
Meet Eduardo Cordero, 8 time
Sunfish World Champion.
S
panish born, Eduardo moved to
V
enezuela in 1982 and is now a
resident of the US. With over
15 years of coaching
experience; working at world
renowned sailing schools,
E
duardo is helping to contribute
his knowledge back to the
s
port. Thank you to Eduardo for
graciously contributing
technical knowledge in helping
w
ith this rigging guide. To find
o
ut more about Eduardo and his
involvement in the sailing
community visit:
www.starboardpassage.com
Fact or Fiction:
T
he Sunfish logo was created by
Cortland Heyniger by tracing a
nickel and adding fins and a
tail?
Visit
www.laserperformance.com
to submit your answer to the
Sunfish “Fact or Fiction”
question and register to be
entered into a raffle drawing!
Figure: 8
Figure: 7
Figure: 9
Figure: 10 Figure: 11
Figure: 12
Figure: 13
Figure: 14 Figure: 15
Bailer Ball
Plug
Bailer Housing
O Ring
Cap A
BD
C
Bailer Opening
Ball
towards
the stern
Space
between
hull and
bailer
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 6

Ratchet Block Installation:
Depending on which model Sunfish you have purchased the ratchet block will be
different in appearance. Follow the instructions below for your model Sunfish. Find
the mainsheet eyestrap located on the deck forward of the cockpit, aft of the
daggerboard well (Figure 16). This is where you will attach the mainsheet ratchet
block.
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block (Figure 17), shackle, pin and ring
(Figure 18).
2. Loop the shackle through the eyestrap and align the hole in the shackle with the
hole in the bottom of the mainsheet block. Insert the pin and secure with
the ring (Figure 19).
Ratchet Block Installation Pro:
Ratchet Block Installation Standard:
1. In the delivery kit locate the ratchet block (Figure 20), compression spring
(Figure 21), shackle, pin and ring (Figure 22).
2. Take the shackle and loop it through the eyestrap. Place the compression spring
over the eyestrap (Figure 21).
3. While compressing the spring, place the mainsheet ratchet block at
the top of the spring and align the hole in the bottom of the block with
the holes in the shackle.
4. Secure the Ratchet block to the shackle using the pin and ring
(Figure 23).
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring compressed while attaching the block to the
shackle, try compressing the spring and tie with string (Figure 24). Place the tied
spring over the eyestrap and attach the block. Then untie the string and release the
spring.
Figure: 16
Figure: 19
Figure: 21
Figure: 17
Figure: 18
Figure: 20
Figure: 23 Figure: 24
Figure: 22
Eyestrap
Daggerboard Well
Tip: After rigging the mainsheet block some racers prefer to raise the height of the
hiking strap in order to more easily get their feet under after a tack. Using a small
piece of line or shockcord, thread one end through the forward loop of webbing in the
hiking strap. Continue the line through the mainsheet block eyestrap (Figure 21). Be
sure to tie the line tightly in order to keep the strap in the lifted position.
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 7

1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper and lower
booms, S hook and package of sail rings. Remove the two
outhaul lines from the line bag.
2. Find a flat surface free of sharp objects that you can
spread your sail out on.
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the sail and
the upper boom along the luff (Figure 25). The Sunfish
logo should face the upper boom; the boom that does not
have any blocks attached.
4. The two booms are attached together by interlocking
eye bolts. This corner of the sail is known as the tack.
Take the S hook and loop one end through the
interlocking eye bolt that is attached to the lower boom
(Figure 26).
5. Take the free end of the S hook and place it through
the grommet in the tack of the sail. Using a pair of
pliers, crimp the S hook closed (Figure 27).
6. Attaching the outhaul lines: Starting at either the
head of the sail or the clew (one of the ends that is not
yet attached to the booms) take one of the outhaul lines
and tie a stopper knot in the end of it Feed the free end
of the line through the boom cap (Figure 28).
7. Continue the line through the grommet in the sail
(Figure 29) and then back down through the top cap.
Double the line through the grommet (Figure 30) and
secure with a couple half hitches (Figure 31). The
outhaul line should be fairly snug.
8. Repeat the same procedures for the second outhaul.
9. Secure the remainder of the sail to the booms using
the sail rings. Locate a grommet, place the sail ring
around the boom, insert the grommet between the
openings of the ring and press firmly to secure
(Figures 32 and 33).
A
ttaching the Sail to the Booms (Standard):
Figure: 25
Upper Boom
Lower Boom
Foot of the Sail
Luff
F
igure: 26 Figure: 27
F
igure: 28 Figure: 29
F
igure: 30 Figure: 31 Complete Outhaul
Figure: 32
Figure: 33
Tack
Head
Clew
Grommet
Leech
Tip: The tight of the sail rings is to ensure that the sail
is securely connected to the booms. Thus pliers may be
used in snapping the rings closed. However use caution
when using pliers, as they can easily scratch the booms.
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 8

Attaching the Sail to the Booms (Pro):
Rigging the Outhaul (Pro):
4. The two booms are attached together by interlocking eye bolts
Take the S hook and loop one end through the interlocking eye bolt
that is attached to the lower boom (Figure 34).
5. Take the free end of the S hook and place it through the grommet
in the tack of the sail. Using a pair of pliers, crimp the S hook
closed (Figure 35).
6. Starting at the tack of the sail, use two of the corner ties to
attach the sail to the booms (Figure 36). Start by wrapping one tie
around the boom and through the grommet in the sail. The tie
should be wrapped around twice before being secured with a square
knot. Tie off the head and the clew of the sail with the remaining
corner ties.
Tip: Make sure to set the tie at the head of the sail so that the sail’s
luff tension is as loose as you will want it while sailing. You will
then be able to adjust the luff tension with the cunningham line.
7. Complete attaching the sail to the booms with the remaining sail
ties. For each grommet in the sail, tie one sail tie around the boom
and through the grommet. Secure with a square knot (Figure 37).
Figure: 34 Figure: 35
Figure: 36 Figure: 37
1. From the delivery kit locate the sail, upper and lower boom, S hook, and sail ties. Remove the cunningham and outhaul line from the line
bag. The white race sail is attached to the booms with sail ties as opposed to sail rings. There should be 4 sail ties that are longer than the
remaining 32 ties. These longer ties are the corner sail ties.
2. Find a flat surface free of sharp objects that you can spread your sail out on.
3. Align the lower boom along the foot of the sail and the upper boom along the luff (Refer to Figure 25). The Sunfish logo should face the
upper boom; the boom that does not have any blocks attached.
1. Using the outhaul line, tie a bowline to
the lower boom end cap (Figure 38).
2. Lead the free end of the line through
the grommet in the sail and back through
the boom end cap (Figure 39). Continue
the line forward down the boom to the aft
most boom cleat.
4. Tie an overhand knot in the outhaul
two sail ties before the boom cleat. Lead
the outhaul line through the two sail ties
and through the cleat (Figure 40).
5. Lead the line back through the
overhand knot and back forward through
the cleat. Cleat off and tie a large bowline
handle in the end (Figure 40).
Tip: Some racers use a piece of line to secure the sail to the
interlocking eye bolt as opposed to the S hook. It is suggested to
use a 10” long, 2mm piece of spectra that gets led through the tack
grommet and interlocking eye bolt. Wrap the line 2 or 3 times
around and secure with a square knot.
Figure: 40
Figure: 38 Figure: 39
1. Tie
Overhand
Knot
2. Lead line
under sail ties 3. Through cleat
4. Through
overhand knot 5. Back through cleat 6. Cleat off and tie
a bowline handle
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 9

R
igging the Cunningham (Pro): 1. Using the cunningham line, tie a bowline to
the interlocking eyebolt of the upper boom
(Figure 41) .
2. Lead the line through the grommet in the tack
of the sail (Figure 42) and continue it down
through the interlocking eye bolt in the lower
boom (Figure 43).
3. Feed the line through the opening in the
gooseneck that retains the lower boom. Just
forward of the mast tie an overhand knot
(Figure 44).
4. Lead the line through the forward most cleat
and back through the overhand knot. Cleat off
and tie a bowline handle with the remainder of
the line (Figure 45).
F
igure: 41 Figure: 42
Figure: 45
S
tepping the Mast: Standard and Pro
(
The directions for stepping the mast are the same for both the standard and pro models. The only differences would be sail and gooseneck
b
olt.)
1
. Locate the mast, as well as the main halyard from the line bag.
T
hread one half of the halyard through the hole in the mast top cap
(
Figure 46).
2
. Before stepping the mast make sure that their are
N
O OVERHEAD WIRES in the area or leading to the launching site!
3
. Make sure that the mast step hole and mast heal are perfectly
c
lean. Any sand, dirt, etc. in the mast step will grind into the gelcoat
e
ventually damaging the boat.
4
. Lay the booms and sail on the deck of the Sunfish. Align the
g
ooseneck on the lower boom over the mast step hole (Figure 47).
5
. Holding onto both ends of the halyard, lift the mast up setting the
h
eal of the mast through the gooseneck ring. Slide the mast into the
m
ast tube (Figure 48). Be careful not to drop the mast into the
t
ube for damage to the mast step will occur!
Figure: 48
Figure: 46
Figure: 47
Figure: 43
F
igure: 44
1. Tie
Overhand
Knot
2. Lead line
through cleat
3. Through
overhand knot
4. Back through cleat
Tack
Grommet
1Vang 12/5/07 12:21 PM Page 10

Attaching the Main Halyard: Standard and Pro
The main halyard is secured to the upper boom with a clove hitch. It is suggested that you place three wraps of electrical tape around the
upper booms between the ninth and tenth sail ring (counting from the tack of the sail upward). The tape helps keep the halyard from
slipping up to the next sail ring or sail tie.
Note: Tying the halyard between the 9th and 10th sail ring is only a suggestion for the halyard location. You can play with the location of
the halyard to raise or lower the boom depending on your comfort or wind strength. It is highly suggested not to tie the halyard up much
farther; raising the boom too far off the deck may cause the mast to bend. For further information on tuning your Sunfish visit the class
association at www.sunfishclass.org.
1. Find one end of the
halyard (tail) and wrap it
around the upper boom
just below the electrical
tape; leaving about a
foot long tail to
complete the clove hitch.
2. Lead the tail of the
halyard over the fall
(The fall is the remain-
der of the halyard) and
around the upper boom
again.
3. Where the tail crosses
over the fall it forms an
X. Pull up on the line
that creates the top of
the X.
4. Lead the tail under
the line you are pulling
up on. Pull on the tail
and fall in order to
tighten around the
boom.
5. Tie a figure eight
knot in the end of the
tail.
Before raising the sail make sure that the bow of the boat is pointing into the wind and you are clear of obstacles that the boom might be
able to hit. Be sure to have the mainsheet and mainsheet snap shackle on hand as they will be the next parts to assemble.
1. Begin raising the sail by pulling
down on the halyard.
2. You will need to assist the lower
boom off the deck by raising the boom
close to the gooseneck while pulling on
the halyard. Continue to pull on the
halyard until the upper boom is right
against the top of the mast.
3. Lead the tail of the halyard
through the main halyard fairlead on
the deck. Tie off the halyard to the
main halyard cleat.
Raising the sail: Standard and Pro
It is suggested to coil up the
remaining tail of the halyard
and place it under the taught
halyard section on the deck.
This will keep the halyard
from dragging in the water.
Optional: How to create a vang
with the tail of your halyard
After cleating off the halyard lead
the free end of the line through the
fairlead, around the mast above the
gooseneck, and back through the
fairlead. Some racers attach the
free end of the line to the
daggerboard.
Fall
Tail Pull to
tighten
Figure
8 Knot
1Vang 12/5/07 12:22 PM Page 11

A
ttaching the Mainsheet:
S
tandard and Pro
1
. Retrieve the mainsheet from the line
b
ag. With one end of the mainsheet tie a
b
owline to the mainsheet snap shackle
(
Figure 49).
2
. Snap the mainsheet shackle onto the
b
ridle (Figure 50).
3
. Continue the free end of the
m
ainsheet towards the bow along the
b
oom, making sure to go through both
ower boom blocks (Figure 51).
4
. Lead the line down through the
r
atchet block. Making sure that while
p
ulling in the mainsheet the block makes
a
ratcheting noise. If the block does not
m
ake a ratchet sound one of two things
c
ould be the problem. First try running
t
he mainsheet through the block the
o
pposite way. If this does not work,
ocate the lever on the mainsheet block
a
nd switch it to the ratchet position
(
Figure 52).
5
. In the free end of the line tie a
s
topper knot (Figure 53).
Figure: 49 Figure: 50
Complete MainsheetFigure: 52
Lever
R
igging the Rudder: Standard and Pro
1
. Align the Nylon washers
(
one per side) with the hole in
t
he rudder located by the
r
udder cheek.
2. Align the hole in the end
of the black tiller strap with
that of the holes in the Nylon
washers and rudder. The con-
tour of the tiller strap should
match that of the rudder
cheek. It is advised to insert
the washers as they are placed
between the tiller strap and
rudder to help prevent chafing.
3. Insert the tiller bolt and
secure with the provided
locknut.
4. Using a 7/16” wrench
tighten the tiller nut until the
the tiller fits snug to the
rudder (the tiller should have
some resistance yet be allowed
to pivot smoothly).
L
ocate the rudder and tiller from the delivery kit. Remove the tiller
b
olt and the two plastic washers from the end of the black tiller straps.
Tiller
Tiller Extension
Universal
Tiller Straps
Rudder/Tiller Bolt
Nylon Washers
Bridle
Figure: 53
Figure: 51
1Vang 12/5/07 12:22 PM Page 12

Attaching the Rudder: Standard and Pro
1. Slide the tiller and exten-
sion underneath the wire bri-
dle. The pintle pin will have
two indentations that align
with the two notches in the
gudgeon (located on the stern
of the boat). Align the pintle
pin with the gudgeon notches.
2. Press down on the top of
the pintle pin (compressing
the pintle spring) in order to
and slide the pins indentations
into the gudgeon.
3. Release the pin and the
rudder should securely be
attached to the boat. The
rudder should be able to pivot
from side to side easily. Leave
the rudder in the kicked up
position prior to launching.
4. The Sunfish Pro rudder
attachment is the same as the
standard Sunfish. The only
difference between the two
models is the rudder blade
materials.
Daggerboard Assembly:
S
tandard and Pro
1. Locate the Daggerboard, bungee line,
retainer line, daggerboard handle line and
brummel hooks (2) from the line bag and
delivery kit (Figure 54).
2. With a stopper knot, attach the brummel
hooks to each end of the bungee
(Figure 55).
3. Thread the daggerboard handle line
through the aft hole of the daggerboard
head. There are 2 suggestions for tying the
handle. Use Figures 56 - 60.
4. Thread one of the brummel hooks
through the hole in the daggerboard.
5. Lead the ends of the bungee around the
mast (Figure 61) and through the bow
handle. Connect the two brummels
(Figure 62)
6. When you are ready to launch, slide the
daggerboard into the daggerboard well. The
bungee should be facing the bow while the
retaining line faces the cockpit (Figure 63).
Tie a bowline with the daggerboard retainer
line to the aft hole of the handle in the
daggerboard. With the free end of the line
tie a bowline to the mainsheet block
eyestrap.
Figure: 54 Figure: 55
Figure: 61 Figure: 62
Brummel Hooks
Bungee Line
Retaining
line
Find the center of the daggerboard handle line. Pass one end of
the line through either hole and place the center of the line at the
hole. Twist the two sides of the line around each other
(Figure 56). When a sufficient handle is made by the twisting,
thread one end of the line through the opposite hole (Figure 57).
Secure with a square knot (Figure 58). Using a hot knife cut the
ends of the knot to a desired length (Figure 59).
Figure: 56 Figure: 57 Figure: 58 Figure: 59
Figure: 63
Thread one end of the
handle line through the
aft hole and tie a
stopper knot. Continue
the line back through
the hole and tie a
stopper knot on the
opposite side. Pull
tight. Cut excess line.
Figure: 60
1Vang 12/5/07 12:22 PM Page 13

It is important to take proper care of your sail in order for it to last longer and perform to the standard
that they were designed for. Follow these simple tips to help extend the life of your sail.
1. If you are sailing in salt water, be sure to rinse out your sail with fresh water after every use.
Dacron sails do not absorb water or salt but the salt will dry on the sail making them stiff. The salt in
humid weather can attract moisture that may lead to mildew on your sail.
2. To wash your sail, NEVER machine wash them. Doing so will damage the material as well as remove
the finish of the sail. If your sail becomes dirty, clean it with a mild dish detergent and rinse with fresh
water. Do not bleach or use other harsh chemicals on the sail for they can also ruin the finish,
decreasing the life of the sail. It is not recommended to store your sail wet, doing so is an invitation
for mildew to grow.
3. It is not recommended to dry your sail in the sun because other then when in use, over exposure of
UV rays will slowly break down the material of the sail. Be aware of the surface that you are drying your
sail on as asphalt and other parking lot surfaces are very abrasive to the sail material and may contain
chemicals (i. e. oil) that can damage the sail. Avoid unnecessary flogging for it will greatly reduce the
life of the sail.
4. Rolling your sail is highly recommended. Crumpling a sail will crack the finish of the material which
quickly reduces the life of the sail. Purchasing a Sunfish sail and spar bag is highly recommended and
are available through your local dealer.
5. Make sure to regularly inspect your sail for loose or torn stitching or small tears in the cloth. Have
any stitching or tears repaired by a local sailmaker before they become more of a problem.
Before Launching:
* Check that the drain
plug on the deck is
tightly in place and the
automatic bailer cap is
closed.
* Depending on the
depth of the water,
begin to slide the
daggerboard into the
trunk and lower the
rudder (lower both
down as much as the
water permits. Once
you are in deep enough
water lower
completely).
* Wear your life jacket
* Make sure that you
are wearing the
appropriate clothing
for the conditions that
you are sailing in
* Be sure to check the
weather report before
going sailing.
* Stay hydrated and
bring plenty of water
* Wear plenty of
sunscreen
Sunfish Class Association
For more information and to link to Sunfish
sailors around the world,
join the Sunfish Class Association.
www.sunfishclass.org
When you approach shallow water, begin to pull up the daggerboard as much as possible without
obstructing the boom and kick up the rudder. After hopping out of the boat, detach the mainsheet
shackle from the bridle line. Remove the daggerboard and place it in the cockpit. It is suggested to
rinse your boat and sails with fresh water especially if you are sailing in salt water. It is also suggested
to allow the sail to dry before rolling. After drying, pull the sail out taught and roll it up against the
booms securing both the sails and booms to the deck with the mainsheet.
It is highly suggested to purchase covers for both the hull and blades in order to protect your boat from
natural elements. A wide variety of accessories are available for purchase through your local Vanguard
dealer.
De-rigging:
Sail Care:
SEITECH dollies are the easy-to-use, light-weight, small boat transportation
solution. The Sunfish dolly has been designed specifically to fit and support
the shape of the hull. SEITECH dollies allow you to spend less time getting
your boat to and from the water and more time on the water.
www.seitech.com
Vanguard equips our Sunfish with the highest quality parts available from the top suppliers. We partner
with key suppliers such as English Braids, North Sails and Harken to develop top of the line dinghy
equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level with the factory supplied rope, sails, and
hardware. Shop at an authorized Vanguard Dealer to be sure you are getting genuine Vanguard parts and
accessories. Visit www.teamvanguard.com to find your local dealer.
1Vang 12/5/07 12:22 PM Page 14

Owner Information
Hull Identification Number: OQT__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __
Purchased From: Date of Purchase:
Contact Name: Phone #:
Address:
City: State: Zip Code:
Hull Color: Sail #:
Registration Information (if applicable)
Trailer VIN #:
License Plate Number: Licensing State:
Registration Number: State of Registration:
Insurance Information:
Maintenance
1Vang 12/5/07 12:22 PM Page 15