Vitus Audio MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES User manual

OWNER’S MANUAL

VITUS OWNER’S MANUAL
FOR MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES
NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensive assembly, use, service, repair or maintenance manual. Please see
your dealer for all assembly, service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics
or books on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
IMPORTANT: This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before you take the
rst ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference. Additional safety, performance and service information for specic
components such as pedals, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that you purchase, may also be available from
your dealer. Make sure that your dealer has given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was included with your bicycle
or accessories. If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility for your safety and consult
with your dealer as a rst point of contact.
01

02
GENERAL WARNING
NOTE TO PARENTS
1. FIRST
Bike t
Safety rst
Mechanical safety check
First ride
2. SAFETY
The basics
Riding safety
Wet weather riding
Riding at night
Competition
Changing components
Maximum weight
3. FIT
Standover height
Saddle position
Handlebar height and angle
Control position adjustments
Brake reach
4. TECHNICAL
Initial assembly
Wheels
Wheel Quick Release
Removing and installing Quick Release wheels
Brakes
Gears
Pedals
Tyres and tubes
Tightening of fasteners
5. SERVICE
Service intervals
If your bicycle sustains an impact
Replacement parts
CONTENTS
03
03
04
04
04
04
05
06
06
06
07
07
08
09
09
09
09
09
10
11
11
11
11
12
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
19
20
20
A.
B.
C.
D.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
A.
B.
1.
2.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
A.
B.
C.

03
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, cycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume the responsibility
for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and
maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury. This manual contains many “warnings”
and “cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe
cycling practices.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word warning indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word caution indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.
• The word caution used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not voided, could result in serious
damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the warnings and cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious injury or even
death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death. Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation
or condition which can occur while riding, this manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all
conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the
sole responsibility of the rider.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS:
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your child, and that includes making sure
that the bicycle is properly tted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child
have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand and
obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and trafc laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and
responsible cycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions
and operating procedures with your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also make sure that your
child understands that a bicycle helmet is for cycling only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must not be
worn while playing, in play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not riding a bicycle.
Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.

04
1. FIRST
Note: we strongly urge you to read this manual in its entirety before your rst ride. At the very least, read and make sure
that you understand each point in this section, and refer to the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely
understand. Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described in this manual. Ask your dealer to point out
the features of your bicycle.
A. Bike t
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too small for you, you may lose control
and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle height, follow the minimum insertion
instructions in section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any direction.
See section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle and reach. See section 3.D
and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your rst ride, have your dealer explain any
functions or features which you do not understand.
B. Safety rst
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for t, use
and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? (See section 2). It’s your responsibility to
familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel quick releases? Check section 4.B.1 To make sure. Riding with an
improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause
serious injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know how they work (see section 4.E).
These pedals require special techniques and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment
and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able to contact the front wheel when
a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read section 4.E. To check whether you have toe overlap.
C. Mechanical safety check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride. Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: because manufacturers
use a wide variety of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often differing by model and component, it
is not possible for this manual to specify correct torque (tightening force) for each specic fastener on your bicycle. We can
tell you the importance of correct torque, but not the specic torque required for each fastener on your bicycle (see section
4.G). To correctly torque a fastener, a torque wrench must be used. A professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench
should torque the fasteners on your bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle you must get correct tightening
torque specications from the bicycle or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an adjustment
at home or in the eld, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on checked by your dealer as
soon as possible.

WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners – nuts, bolts, screws – on your bicycle is important. Too little force, and
the fastener may not hold securely. Too much force, and the fastener can strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way,
incorrect tightening force can result in component failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on the ground.
Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. If there are any loose parts or
accessories secure them. If you’re not sure, ask an experienced cyclist or mechanic to check.
Tyres & wheels:
Make sure tyres are correctly inated (see section 4.F.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection
of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tyre deection. Compare what you see
with how it looks when you know the tyres are correctly inated; and adjust if necessary. Are both tyres in good condition?
Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tyres before riding the bike. Are both
wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even
slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike to a qualied bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for the brakes to work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools and
experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge, experience and tools needed to do the
job correctly.
Are both wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged along the braking surface, and
check for excess rim wear. (See section 5.A.4).
Brakes:
Check the brakes for proper operation (see sections 4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quickreleases closed?
Are all control cables seated and securely engaged? Do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and make full
contact with the rim? Do the brake pads touch the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full
braking force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the
bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
Quick releases:
Make sure the front wheel, rear wheel and seat post quick releases are properly adjusted and in the locked position. See
section 4.B.
Handlebar and saddle alignment:
Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t
twist them out of alignment. See sections 3.B and 3.C.
Handlebar ends:
Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good condition. If not, have your dealer
Replace them. Make sure the handlebar ends and aerobar extensions are plugged. If not, have your dealer plug them
before you ride. If the handlebars have aerobar extensions, make sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist
them.
Warning: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or aerobar extensions can cause you to lose control and fall.
Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut you and cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
Rear derailleur hanger:
Make sure the rear derailleur hanger is straight and undamaged. If bent or broken,
Have your dealer replace it before you ride. (See section 5.B).
D. First ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your rst familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled
environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls, features
and performance of your new bike. Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see section 4.C). Test the brakes
at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake rst.
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Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock
up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel
locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and
section 4.E.4. Practice shifting the gears (see section 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter while pedalling backward,
nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to
the bicycle. Check out the handling and response of the bike for t and comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be, consult your dealer before your
next ride.
2. SAFETY
A. The basics
WARNING: Many countries require specic safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of
the region where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as
the law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about bicycle lighting, reectors, licensing of bicycles,
riding on footpaths, laws regulating bike path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, and special bicycle trafc laws.
It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certication standards and is appropriate for the type of riding
you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for t, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle
injuries involve head injuries which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious injury or death.
2. Always do the mechanical safety check (section 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: Brakes (section 4.C.); Pedals (section 4.E.); Shifting (section
4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of chainrings, the moving chain, the
turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoe laces cannot get into moving parts and
never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of
the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike can be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and
its components. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves.
Before you attempt to jump or race with your bike, read and understand section 2.E.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for current conditions and surroundings. Increased speed means higher risk.
B. Riding safety
1. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights.
2. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
3. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
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• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions
that could cause you to swerve into trafc, catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
4. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the road as possible, in the direction
of trafc ow or as directed by local governing laws.
5. Stop at stop signs and trafc lights; slow down and look both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle
always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
6. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
7. Never ride with headphones. They mask trafc sounds and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating
on what is going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
8. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child
carrier or a child carrying trailer.
9. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could become
entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
10. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
11. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or go racing with your bike despite our
advice not to, read Section 2.E, Competition, now. Think carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large risks
that go with this kind of riding.
12. Don’t weave through trafc or make any moves that may surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.
13. Observe and yield the right of way.
14. Never ride your bicycle while under the inuence of alcohol or drugs.
15. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired.
Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
16. Always carry some form of identication, so that people know who you are in case of an accident; and take along some
cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency phone call.
C. Wet weather riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the cyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road.
The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is
dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose
control. To make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes
earlier and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
D. Riding at night
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding during the day. A cyclist is very difcult for motorists
and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who choose to accept
the greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialist
equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
07

WARNING: Reectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor
visibility without an adequate bicycle lighting system is dangerous and may result in serious injury or death.
Bicycle reectors are designed to pick up and reect car lights and street lights in a way that may help you to be seen and
recognized as a moving cyclist.
CAUTION: Check reectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken
and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged reectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
WARNING: Do not remove the installed front or rear reectors or reector brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral
part of the bicycle’s safety system. Removing the reectors may reduce your visibility to others using the roadway. Being
struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding,
and take the following strongly recommended additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which meet all regulatory requirements and
provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light coloured, reective clothing and accessories, such as a reective vest, reective arm and leg bands, reective
stripes on your helmet, ashing lights attached to your body and/or your bicycle...any reective device or light source that
moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trafc.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted reectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving trafc.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in trafc:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trafc often, ask your dealer about trafc safety classes or a good book on bicycle trafc safety.
E. Competition
By engaging in racing or aggressive riding you voluntarily assume an increased risk of injury or death. Not all bicycles are
designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your
dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in competition. When riding fast
downhill, you can reach excessive speeds and therefore face higher risks due to reduced reaction time.
Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a qualied mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition.
Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle when any part is damaged.
Consult with expert riders and race ofcials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you plan to ride.
Wear appropriate safety gear. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to be familiar with course
conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogues, advertisements and articles about cycling depict riders engaged in various forms
of racing, this activity can be extremely dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, and increases the severity of any
injury. Remember that the action depicted is being performed by professionals with many years of training and experience.
Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety gear. Even with state-ofthe-art protective safety
gear, you could be seriously injured or killed when riding downhill at speed or in competition.
CAUTION: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to strength and integrity, and this type of riding can
increase the likelihood of exceeding those limitations.
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F. Changing components
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your
bicycle. However, if you change components or add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer
may not have tested that component or accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing
any component or accessory, including a different size tyre, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking
with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for
your bicycle.
WARNING: Failure to conrm compatibility, properly install, operate and maintain any component or accessory can result
in serious injury or death.
CAUTION: Changing the components on your bike may void the warranty. Refer to your warranty, and check with your
dealer before changing the components on your bike.
G. Maximum weight
Vitus frames have been designed and tested to withstand very high loads, and as a result we have not traditionally assigned
maximum weight restrictions for our frames. However, your bicycle is also made up of numerous individual components, all
of which have their own unique weight limits. As a result, Vitus recommends that you consult your dealer to ensure that all
components selected for use on your bicycle are suitable and safe for your intended use.
3. Fit
NOTE: Correct t is an essential element of cycling safety, performance and comfort. To make the adjustments to your
bicycle, which result in correct t for your body and riding conditions, requires experience, skill and special tools. Always
have your dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer
check your work before riding. The t suggestions below are based solely on safety concerns. They specify the absolute
minimum standards to ride the bike, but by no means do they guarantee optimal performance. Much more elaborate t
requirements are necessary to ensure optimal performance. For the additional performance tting requirements, please
consult with your dealer.
WARNING: If your bicycle does not t properly, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike doesn’t t, ask your dealer
to exchange it before you ride it.
A. Standover height
Standover height is the basic element of bike t. It is the distance from the ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that
point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing
the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike
is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take
offroad should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved
surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off
road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
WARNING: If you plan to use your bike for jumping or competition, read Section 2.E again.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the
saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment.
To check for correct saddle height:
• Sit on the saddle;
09

• Place one heel on a pedal;
• Rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach
the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seatpost does not project from the frame beyond its “Minimum
Insertion” mark, which means that the minimum insertion mark should never be visible above the frame once adjusted to
your correct position. If the “Minimum Insertion” mark is visible once your saddle is properly adjusted, contact your dealer
to have the seatpost replaced with a longer one.
WARNING: If your seat post projects from the frame beyond the Minimum Insertion or Maximum Extension mark, the seat
post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Note that some seatposts also have a second insertion mark entitled “Maximum Insertion”. If present on your bicycle, your
seatpost should never be lowered into the frame beyond the “Maximum Insertion” point, meaning that this line must always
be visible above the frame once the saddle is properly adjusted. If the “Maximum Insertion” mark is no longer visible once
your saddle is properly adjusted, contact your dealer to have the seatpost replaced with a shorter one.
WARNING: If your seat post is inserted into the frame beyond the Maximum Insertion mark, the seat post may break, which
could cause you to lose control and fall.
Minimum saddle height is dened as the smallest possible distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top
of the saddle on a given bicycle. It can be measured along the plane of the seat tube from the top of the saddle to the
center of the crank axle. Several factors can inuence the minimum saddle height including thickness of the saddle, design
of the seatpost clamp, seatpost length, frame size, and frame design. Vitus does not specify the minimum saddle height
on our standard geometry tables due to the variability of this dimension with component changes; instead we recommend
consulting your dealer to assist in determining appropriate sizing and in tting your bicycle to you.
2. Front and back adjustment.
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position
on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment.
3. Saddle angle adjustment.
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer
can adjust saddle angle or teach you how to do it. Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial effect on
performance and comfort. To nd your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened before riding.
A loose saddle clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control and fall. A
correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement in any direction. Periodically check to make
sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may
need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can
help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not
support your pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or longterm injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even impotence.
If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop riding until you see your dealer
about saddle adjustment or a different saddle.
C. Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube. Your dealer may be able
to change handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa.
Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your dealer.
10

11
Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special Knowledge.
WARNING: Exceeding the maximum spacer height can result in damage to the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you
to lose control and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, locking
the front brake or creating excess cable slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake pads move
in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is changed, the brakes must be
correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
WARNING: The top of the stem where tted over the fork steerer tube must not extend more than 5 mm above the top of
the steerer. If the stem is extended beyond this height the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could
cause you to lose control and fall. Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or aerobar extensions.
WARNING: An insufciently tightened stem binder bolt, handlebar binder bolt or aerobar extension clamping bolt may
compromise steering action, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between
your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/ stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the
handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the aerobar extensions in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are
insufciently tightened.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to
make the adjustments for you.
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or nd it difcult to squeeze the
brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or t shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking
power can be applied within available brake lever travel. Brake lever travel insufcient to apply full braking power can result
in loss of control, which may result in serious injury or death.
4. Technical
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things work on your bicycle. We urge you
to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have
your dealer check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand
something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer.
A. Initial assembly
Vitus bicycles are shipped from the factory to the dealer only partially assembled. Your dealer will complete the assembly
of the bicycle, and perform any adjustments required to make it t you. It is strongly recommended that you allow your
dealer to perform the assembly and tting operations, as it requires specic knowledge of each part, appropriate tools, and
understanding of the interactions of various materials. Your bicycle is a high performance machine, much like a racing car,
and as such requires skilled maintenance in order to function safely and effectively.
Your dealer will perform the following assembly operations before your bicycle is delivered to you:
1. Fork cut to appropriate length.
2. Headset & stem installed and adjusted.
3. Handlebars clamped into stem.
4. Brake/shift levers installed onto handlebars.
5. Front brake installed on fork.
6. Brake and shifter cables threaded & attached.
7. Brakes and derailleur adjusted.

12
8. Handlebars wrapped with bar tape & plugged.
9. Seat and seatpost installed.
10. Wheels installed.
11. Pedals (of your choice) installed.
If you choose to perform any assembly operations yourself, ensure that all operations are done in accordance with
the specic assembly instructions published by the component manufacturer. These assembly instructions are
included in the bike box provided to your dealer. Alternatively, assembly instructions are usually posted on the
component manufacturer’s websites, or are available from their service departments.
B. Wheels
1. Wheel Quick Release
WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble or fall off the bicycle,
which can cause serious injury or death. Therefore, it is essential that you:
Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release.
Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
The wheel Quick Release uses a cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place (see g. 5). Because of its adjustable
nature, it is critical that you understand how it works, how to use it properly, and how much force you need to apply to
secure the wheel.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and
turning the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the wheel
safely in the dropouts.
a. Adjusting the Quick Release mechanism
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the
tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the
tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases
clamping force; turning it counter-clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
b. Front wheel secondary retention devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention device to reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging
from the fork if the quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick
release adjustment.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
(1) The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
(2) The integral type is moulded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. As its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a
critical adjustment. If the quick release is not adjusted correctly, the secondary retention device can reduce the risk of the
wheel disengaging from the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary retention device may also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment.
Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage which could cause you
to lose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.

2. Removing and installing Quick Release wheels
a. Removing a Quick Release front wheel
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance between the
tyre and the brake pads.
(2) Move the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (g. 6).
Quick release levers should be embossed with the words “OPEN” and “CLOSED” to indicate the current position of
the lever.
(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to step (5).
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (5). If your front fork has an
integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow removing the wheel; then go to the
next step.
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to release the
wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a Quick Release front wheel
(1) Move the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel. This is the OPEN position.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats rmly at the top of
the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork dropouts. The quick-release lever should be on the left side
of the bicycle. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left
hand until it is nger tight against the fork dropout.
(4) While pushing the wheel rmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in
the fork, move the quick-release lever upwards and swing it into the CLOSED position. The lever should now be parallel
to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your ngers
around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable force. If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping
your ngers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the
tension is insufcient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position.
Then turn the tension adjusting nut counter clockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
(6) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make
sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the
brakes are operating correctly.
c. Removing a Quick Release rear wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to increase the clearance between the
wheel rim and the brake pads.
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
13

(4) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down
until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Quick Release rear wheel
(1) Make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its outermost, high gear, position
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position. The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur
and freewheel sprockets.
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel up and back into the frame dropouts and
pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) Tighten the quick-release adjusting nut until it is nger tight against the frame dropout; then swing the lever toward the
front of the bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the wheel. To apply enough
clamping force, you should have to wrap your ngers around a frame tube for leverage, and the lever should leave a
clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable force. If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping
your ngers around the seatstay or chainstay for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand, the tension is insufcient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
The rear wheel must be secured to the bicycle frame with sufcient force so that it cannot be pulled forward by the chain,
even under the greatest pedaling force. If the wheel moves under pedaling force, the tyre can touch the frame, which can
cause you to lose control and fall.
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever
to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counter clockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening again.
(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(8) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to
make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure
that the brakes are operating correctly.
C. Brakes
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn brake pads is dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or
excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in serious injury or death.
3. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for operation and care of your brakes. If you do not have the manufacturer’s
instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
1. Brake controls and features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and remember which brake lever controls which brake on your bike.
Vitus bicycles will be set up by the dealer initially so that the left hand brake lever controls the rear brake, and the right hand
brake lever controls the front brake (UK specication), or that the right hand brake lever controls the rear brake, and the left
hand brake lever controls the front brake (European specication). Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the
brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers may be adjustable; or you may need a different
brake lever design.
Most brakes have some form of quick-release mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tyre when a wheel is
removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative.
14

Ask your dealer to make sure that you understand the way the brake quick release works on your bike and check each time
to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike.
2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces — usually the brake pads and the
wheel rim or disc. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake pads clean and
free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes. Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum
braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once
the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking
the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively
increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating
just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at
different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying
different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could
send you ying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with
less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward
the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear
braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents, because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking
and weight transfer techniques where there is no trafc or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tyre adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less
cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability
to grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
D. Gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
The parts of the gear-changing mechanism include:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a. Shifting gears
There are several different types and styles of shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers, combination shift/brake controls
and push-buttons. Ask your dealer to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike, and to show you how they
work. The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “lower” or “slower” gear, one which is
easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening
at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting
the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedalling
easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or
up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift.
The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating
and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is
called an upshift. Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be
moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedalling forward.
15

CAUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor Pedal backwards immediately after having moved the
shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
b. Shifting the rear derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one
gear sprocket to another. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher
gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The
larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with
each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a
downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to
move the chain from one sprocket to another, the rider must be pedaling forward.
c. Shifting the front derailleur
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings.
Shifting the chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes
pedaling harder (an upshift).
d. Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear and largest front
combination is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, nd the “starting gear” which
is right for your level of ability — a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a
stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations.
At rst, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other trafc, until you’ve built up your condence.
Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you have difculties with
shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
Cross-chain gears should be avoided at all times as these will quickly wear out the chain, and possibly also the derailleurs,
chainrings, and sprockets. Cross-chain gears occur when the chain is on both the largest chainring at the front and the
largest sprocket at the rear, or alternately both the smallest chainring at the front and the smallest sprocket at the rear.
These positions orient the chain at an angle with respect to the centerline of the bicycle, which places greater stress on the
drivetrain components. There should be no need to resort to cross-chain gears as equivalent ratios can be found by using
other combinations of front and rear gears.
WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly.
The derailleur may be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: Never pedal for long periods in cross-chain gears as these combinations place unnecessary stress on your
bicycle’s drivetrain, and may result in premature wearout and decreased performance.
E. Pedals
Vitus bicycles are not shipped with pedals, which permits the dealer and customer to select and install pedals appropriate
for the intended use of the bicycle. Please consult with your dealer to ensure you have been provided all manufacturers’
documentation for the installed pedals, and take responsibility to ensure that you have read and fully understand all
documentation before riding any bicycle equipped with unfamiliar pedals.
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the
forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the
outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the inside pedal from striking
the ground in a turn.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to help you determine if the combination
of frame size, crank arm length, tyre size, pedal design and shoes you choose to use results in pedal overlap. Note that
component changes to your bicycle (cranks, tyres, pedals) can result in a reduction of toe-clearance; consult your dealer
about any component changes and use caution when rst riding the bicycle following a component change. Whether you
have overlap or not, you must keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces.
16

These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal.
If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’
sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride
with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the
ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot
engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benet with any kind of shoe, they
work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps
work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or welts which might make it more difcult for you to remove your foot should not be
used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice.
Until it becomes a reex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to
lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or trafc.
Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and condence in getting in and out of the pedals
warrants it. Never ride in trafc with your toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep feet securely in the correct position
for maximum pedaling efciency. They have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
spring-loaded xture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage with a very specic motion which must be practiced
until it becomes instinctive. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are compatible with the make and model pedal
being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or disengage the foot.
Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment.
Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging becomes a reex action, but always make sure that there is
sufcient tension to prevent unintended release of your foot from the pedal.
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specically made to t them and are designed to rmly keep
the foot engaged with the pedal. Using shoes which do not engage the pedals correctly is dangerous.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a
reex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall.
Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or trafc; and be sure
to follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the manufacturer’s instructions, see
your dealer or contact the manufacturer for advice.
F. Tyres and Tubes
1. Tyres
Bicycle tyres are available in many designs and specications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tyres designed to
perform best under very specic weather or terrain conditions. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new bike, you
feel that a different tyre might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high performance tyres the specic recommended use, are marked on the sidewall
of the tyre. The part of this information which is most important to you is tyre pressure.
WARNING: Never inate a tyre beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tyre’s sidewall.
Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure may blow the tyre off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and
injury to the rider and bystanders.
The best and safest way to inate a bicycle tyre to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump which has a built-in
pressure gauge.
WARNING: There is a safety risk in using service station air hoses or other air compressors. They are not made for bicycle
tyres. They move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tyre very rapidly, which could cause
the tube to explode.
17

Tyre pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tyre performs under different terrain or
weather conditions depends largely on tyre pressure. Inating the tyre to near its maximum recommended pressure gives
the lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement.
Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain
such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tyre pressure that is too low for your
weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tyre to deform sufciently to pinch the
inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tyre gauges can be inaccurate and should not be relied upon for consistent, accurate
pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tyre pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer
inate your tyres to that pressure. Then, check ination as described in Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inated
tyres should look and feel when you don’t have access to a gauge. Some tyres may need to be brought up to pressure
every week or two. Some special high-performance tyres have unidirectional treads. Their tread pattern is designed to work
better in one direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tyre will have an arrow showing the correct
rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tyres, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2. Tyre Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use
must have the tting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.
The Schraeder valve is like the valve on a car tyre. To inate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and clamp
the pump tting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve
stem with the end of a key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tyres. To inate a Presta valve tube using a Presta
headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counter clockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on
the valve stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inate. To inate a Presta valve with a
Schraeder pump tting, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once
you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter ts into the Schraeder pump tting. Close the valve after ination. To let air out of a
Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
WARNING: Patching a tube is an emergency repair. If you do not apply the patch correctly or apply several patches, the
tube can fail, resulting in possible tube failure, which could cause you to loose control and fall. Replace a patched tube as
soon as possible.
3. Clincher and Tubular tyres
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tyres: The Clincher tyre and the Tubular tyre. Clincher tyres are shaped like a “U”
in cross section, with wire or Kevlar beads on the outer edge of both sides that hook onto the rim and hold the tire in place
on the wheel over the inner tube. Tubular tyres do not have beads – the outer edges of the tyre are sewn together around
the inner tube, which is then glued to the rim to hold it in place.
Your Vitus bicycle will be equipped with clincher tyres from the factory, however many riders may wish to purchase a
second set of wheels utilising tubular tyres. If you install wheels with tubular tyres on your bicycle, it is very important that
you obtain and read all safety information about tubulars from the wheel & tyre manufacturers, in particular the information
on the proper technique for gluing the tyres to the rim. Improperly glued tubular tyres can separate from the rim causing a
serious crash. It is up to the rider to take responsibility for ensuring their tubular wheels and tyres are safe to use.
WARNING: Improperly installed tubular tyres can separate from the rims during a ride, possibly causing a serious
crash that may result in injury or death.
G. Tightening of Fasteners
Your Vitus bicycle is equipped with precision components which require precise adjustment and care in order to function
properly. Whenever components are changed or adjusted on the bicycle, it is critical for safety and performance reasons
that all fasteners be tightened in accordance with the listed values below. It is recommended that you permit your dealer
to perform the following adjustments, as they have the proper tools and experience to ensure it is done correctly. Improper
adjustments can result in safety hazards – ensure you read all applicable documentation and have the correct tools prior
to attempting any adjustments yourself.
18

Note that prior to assembling and tightening any bolts, all threads must be generously greased with a quality, non-lithium
type grease. Torque wrenches with scale appropriate for the particular torque setting are strongly recommended for
tightening all threaded fasteners.
Vitus strongly recommends the use of carbon assembly compound/friction paste for all areas of clamping to carbon bre,
such as the seatpost to frame, the stem to fork, and the handlebar to stem joints. Benets to using this paste include
reduced corrosion potential, and a decrease in required clamping force needed to support a given load. The paste should
be evenly spread on the carbon surface under the clamped area.
WARNING: Under-tightening or over-tightening fasteners can result in damage to the bicycle that can lead to possible
failure, which could cause you to lose control and fall, resulting in injury or death.
5. Service
WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle components more complex, and the pace of
innovation is increasing. It is impossible for this manual to provide all the information required to properly repair and/or
maintain your bicycle. In order to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have any
repair or maintenance which is not specically described in this manual performed by your dealer. Equally important is that
your individual maintenance requirements will be determined by everything from your riding style to geographic location.
Consult your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements.
WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or
service on your bicycle until you have learned from your dealer how to properly complete them. Improper adjustment or
service may result in damage to the bicycle or in an accident which can cause serious injury or death.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair work on your bike:
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s installation and service instructions for the components on your bike, or
contact the component manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair courses in your area.
We recommend that you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work the rst time you work on something and
before you ride the bike, just to make sure that you did everything correctly. Since that will require the time of a mechanic,
there may be a modest charge for this service.
A. Service intervals
Some service and maintenance can and should be performed by the owner, and require no special tools or knowledge
beyond what is presented in this manual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and repair
should be performed in a properly equipped facility by a qualied bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and procedures
specied by the manufacturer.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel
spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is rst used and may require readjustment by your dealer.
Your Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify some things that need readjustment.
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
3. After every long or hard ride: if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike
thoroughly and lightly oil the chain. Wipe off excess oil. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the
best lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding:
• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward
or backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it.
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