VMW 800 User manual

from globally sourced components.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648
60 Hemmed & Stacked
Jeans Pockets per Minute
for Over 35 Years!
VMW Model 1700
for Short Sleeves
VMW Model 1500
for Back Pockets & Watch Pockets

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
Model
#1500 Hems Back Pockets and Watch Pockets
#1700 Hems Pockets and Short Sleeves
Sewing
Head
Pfaff 5642 / Pegasus TM625 Needle Feed or Union Special 56500,
Pegasus W522 or Kansai Special WX-8000 Drop Feed Machines.
Model #1700: 5" x 5" through 18" x 24"
Cut & Stack Handles watch Pockets to large Coverall Pockets with 1 adjustment
Curved
Conveyor Holds 1,000 pockets and returns them to the operator
SPECIFICATIONS
Training Time One to Two weeks
Electronics
Installation
Efka DC1500 / AB221A & VMW Stacker Board
Usually within 1 day
Production
60 Pockets-per-Minute capacity
500-600 dozen pair of pockets per eight-hour-day,
depending on operator (usually 14,000 per shift)
300 dozen pair of short sleeves per eight-hour-day (7,000 units)
Material Poplin and Twill to 16-ounce Denim
Material
Sizes
Model #1500: 3½" x 3½" through 9" x 9"
Payback Usually within 1 year (one shift per day)
Serving the Sewn Products Industry for Over 40 Years
(NEW 2019) All-New / ALL-ELECTRONIC Versions are available
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

OPERATION MANUAL
#800 POCKET HEMMER
#1500 POCKET HEMMER
#1700 SLEEVE & POCKET HEMMER
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
VMW AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
In June of 2016, our Friend Mr. Jerry Kear decided to retire and sell his business to the Collier Family in
Lexington Alabama where his equipment developments would be manufactured and maintained with a good
family name. We strive to keep the integrity and maintain the long lasting reputation Jerry presented to the
industry for so many years. He will forever be missed and loved by many of us. RIP to our good friend.
Serving the Sewn Products Industry for Over 40 Years
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

Section 1
Introduction
Section 2
Installation and Checklist
Section 3
Operation
Section 4
Adjustments 1
1.
Removing the Pocket Conveyor
2.
Conveyor Feed End Height Adjustment
Section 4
Adjustments 2
3.
Conveyor Center Height Adjustment
4.
Edge Guide Adjustment
Section 4
Adjustments 3
5.
Pre-folder Adjustment
6.
Stitch Position Alignment
Section 4
Adjustment 4
7.
Conveyor Speed Control Adjustment
8.
Thread Cut and Vacuum
Section 4
Adjustments 5
9.
Stacking system
Section 5
Troubleshooting
Recommended Customer Stock Level for Spare Parts
Complete Model #1500 Spare Parts List
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
List of parts shown in sections 2 - 4
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
Section 1 - Introduction
The VMW Pocket Hemmer has been factory adjusted to
begin operation immediately. This manual has been
provided to assist the Tehnicians who will care for the
machine. All necessary adjustments are included on the
following pages. Additional assistance is available during
the hours of 8 a.m. - 5:00 p.m Central Standard Time,
Monday through Friday at [phone] or eMail us at
your convenience.
Contact us for all of your Sewing Equipment, parts and
service requirements.
In order to avoid down-time, please maintain your spare
parts inventory as indicated in this manual.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

Date:
Installed By:
Assemble and attach thread stand and power pole with mirror.
Check machine rotation.
Check oil level in sewing head.
Sew a few samples (preferably watch pockets).
Check seam margin (overall fold width).
Check stitch to fold (top of pocket) margin.
Check stitch length and stitch quality.
Check for venturi and clippers are trimming clean with no
thread tails.
Check for dead spots in table top conveyor (Places where
the conveyor belt does not make contact with the folder plate
or cutting plate).
Check stacker for proper cycling.
Material clamp tips making contact with pocket.
Material clamp releasing at the proper time.
Clamp returning slow enough to allow pocket to fall onto
the return conveyor.
Adjust return conveyor so that it indexes far enough to allow
pockets to move out of the way of the stacker.
Check for extra chain flight in drawer.
Check for service manuals for hemmer and sewing head.
Comments:
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
VMW POCKET HEMMER INSTALLATION CHECKLIST
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

Air Lock-Out
IMPORTANT!
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
Install electrical conduit (A).
Pull the electric cord through the
conduit and attach to your plug.
The machine requires 220 Single
Phase electricity. Connect to your
plug and confirm the proper
rotation of the motor.
SECTION 2 - INSTALLATION
Install air supply (B). A minimum of 80 psi is required to begin operation of the
machine. During operation, the air supply cannot drop below 50 psi. An air lock-
out device is located near the regulator. This device allows a Technician to
depressurize the air system during service of the pneumatic components.
Attach the mirror to the conduit. The operator should be able to see the pockets
as they enter the cut and stack operation ( C ).
Confirm the proper oil level in the
sewing head at (D).
The machine is now ready for
operation.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
The machine can be operated in either
manual or automatic mode. Push the
"RUN" switch to manually operate the
machine.
Power is transferred to the sewing
machine shaft through belt (F) and to a
variable speed gearbox through a belt
(G). The output shaft of the gearbox is
directly coupled to the conveyor belt
drive pulley (H).
The moving belt of the pocket
conveyor moves the pockets through
the sewing machine (I) and on to the
cut and stack operation (J).
Automatic operation is controlled by the
button "0" on the Efka Controller and
turns on the photo-cell (L).
You should press the "0" button and be
in service / manual mode before
performing any maintenance to the
sewing head.
Before turning on main switch, confirm
that any foot pedals are free and that
the start pedal isn’t pressed.
The main power switch ( E ) turns the
motor controls on/off. Check the head
for proper rotation of the motor. 'The
pocket conveyor will always move in the
correct direction and is not a good check
for the direction of the motor drive.
CAUTION!
SECTION 3 - OPERATION
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

This unit has been adjusted at the factory. However, you may need to make
adjustments due to shipping and when you change fabrics.
1. Removing the Pocket Conveyor
1 - Remove bolt from the eccentric nut
To Reattach
Pocket:
should meet belt
at this point.
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
(M) by loosening bolt at (S) (See section
4 - 3).
2 - Loosen conveyor feed end height
adjustment (Q) (See Section 4 - 2).
3 - Remove U-joint (N) at gearbox.
1 - Reattach, but do not
tighten U-joint at gearbox.
2 - Tighten conveyor feed
end height adjustment
until the end of the belt is
touching the folder plate
at (O).
3 - Tighten eccentric nut
until the end of the conveyor
belt is touching the end of the
stacking plate at (P).
The adjusting screw (Q) is used to control
the clearance between the pocket conveyor
belt and the folder plate. The adjustment is
made at the point where the pockets begin
under the conveyor. Loosen the conveyor
clamp nut ( R ) and back it out. Use a single
piece of fabric as a guide. Insert the fabric
between the conveyor belt and the folder
plate. Tighten the adjusting screw until a
slight binding of the fabric occurs at a point
directly below the center line of the conver
shaft. Tighten the wing nut.
2. Conveyor Feed End Height
Adjustment.
SECTION 4 - ADJUSTMENTS 1
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
N
P
O

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
3. Conveyor Center
Height Adjustment
The bolt (S) and eccentric nut (M)
controls the clearance between the
conveyor assembly (T) and folder
plate (U). Loosen bolt and rotate
the nut counterclockwise (See
Section 4-1 to increase pressure
between the conveyor belt and the
folder plate. Rotate the nut
clockwise to decrease pressure.
4. Edge Guide Adjustment
SECTION 4 - ADJUSTMENTS 2
The pocket guide (V) and
support (V2) control the amount
of fabric in the fold. The guide
has been preset at the factory.
You should mark the original
position of the guide before
making any changes. Loosen
adjustable handles (W) and
move the edge guide toward the
left (as shown) for less material
in the fold. Move it to the right
for more material. Reattach
bolts. Check sewn pockets for
proper amount of material in the
fold.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
5. Pre-Folder adjustment
The wire guide
assembly (X) is
attached to the
edge guide to
insure that the
material is partially
turned down prior
to entering the
folder.
SECTION 4 - ADJUSTMENTS 3
6. Stitch Position Alignment
If the distance from the edge of the hem
to the sew line (Y)
is incorrect, line up the
outer edge of the folder plate with the
outer edge of the feed dog slot (Z) and
tighten the two screws (A). Sew a pocket
and check edge distance until it is
correct.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
Y

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
7. Conveyor Speed Control
Adjustment
Best sewing results are obtained when the
conveyor speed is set slightly slower than
the speed of the sewing machine. This is
indicated by a small ripple in the trailing
part of the pocket as it exits the presser foot
(B). To change the conveyor speed, rotate
the hand crank (C) on the speed control unit
until the desired speed is obtained.
NOTE: Rotate clockwise to increase belt
speed. Rotate counterclockwise to decrease
belt speed. The belt speed may need to be
adjusted when the size of pocket is
changed.
SECTION 4 - ADJUSTMENTS 4
The pockets continue through the machine and pass over the vacuum venturi cap (D)
and
clipper blade ( E ). The pockets are cut apart and the excess thread is disposed. Pockets
should be loaded a minimum of 1.25" apart to ensure good cutting. For proper clipper
maintenance, refer to the Oster literature. The blade should be replaced if it is dull and
not trimming properly. When replacing the blade, check the brushes for wear and add
grease to the link and gear if it is necessary. To reinstall clippers, align the top of the
blade with the venturi as shown. Align the edge of the clipper with venturi as shown.
8. Thread Cut and Vacuum
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
B
C
E

AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
The photoelectric sensor
(F)
located at the end of the pocket
conveyor triggers the pocket
clamp (G) to close. The stacking
cylinder (H) moves the pocket to
the stacking conveyor (i). The
release of the pocket is
controlled by the MRS switch (J).
The curved conveyor will index 1/8" per pocket. This is controlled by the
adjustable cylinder (k). The cylinder is attached to the clutch shaft (l) with a clevis
(m) and clutch housing (n). The curved conveyor may be operated manually with
the electric foot switch. The foot switch controls the motor which turns the drive
shaft (o). Roller clutch bearings, located at (p) must be replaced correctly for
proper rotation. This is indicated by a small arrow on the bearing. In general, the
curved conveyor will require little maintenance. Do not remove the chain or chain
flights. Turn off the main power switch before gaining access between chain
flights and end of frame.
9. Stacking System
SECTION 4 - ADJUSTMENTS 5
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

REFERENCE
E Main Power Switch
2-SW009
F Sewing Head Belt
2-BT021
G Gearbox Timing Belt
2-BT010
K Service Switch
2-SW006
L Photoelectric Sensor
2-MS005
M Eccentric Nut
5-PH159T-A
N D-6 U-Joint
6-PH106D2-A
D-4 U-Joint
6-PH106D1-A
Q Adjusting Screw
2-HD024
R Conveyor Clamp Nut
5-PH154T-A
S Bolt for Eccentric Nut
2-HD070
V Pocket Guide
5-PH152T-A
V2 Pocket Guide Support 6-PH260T-A
W Adjustable Handle 2-HD012
X Wire Guide Assembly 6-PH153T-A
d Venturi Cap 5-PH145T-A
e Clipper Blades 2-CL002
Clipper Brushes 2-CL003
f Photoelectric Sensor 2-MS005
g Pocket Clamp Bracket 5-PH168TA-C
Pocket Clamp Tips 5-PH1437T-A
Pocket Clamp Cylinder 2-CY027
h Stacking Cylinder 2-CY028
j MRS Switch 2-SW003
k Adjustable Cylinder 2-CY017
l Clutch Shaft 5-PH213CCC-C
m Adjustable Cylinder Clevis 2-CY022
n Clutch Housing 5-PH215CC-A
o Drive Shaft 5-PH213CC-C2
p End Cap Roller Clutch Bearing 2-BR012
End Cap Idler Bearing 2-BR009
Clutch Housing Roller Clutch Bearing 2-BR013
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
DESCRIPTION VMW PART No.
Parts shown in Manual
Serving the Sewn Products Industry for Over 40 Years
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

1. No power to machine
2. Line fuses are blown
3. Wire connections are loose
4. Main switch is faulty
5. Motor / Controls need repair
1. Rough loopers or needles 1.
Remove, polish loopers or replace needles.
2. Feed Dog has sharp edges 2.
Remove, polish and re-install.
3. Thread Tension too tight 3. Readjust tensions.
4. Incorrect Conveyor speed 4. See Section 4-7.
5. Presser foot not parallel to sew line 5. Re-align presser foot.
Keep pocket against guide until conveyor has
complete control.
2.
Incorrect conveyor speed
2.
Set conveyor speed per adjustment Section 4-7.
3.
Pocket edge guide improperly set
3. See Section 4-3
Readjust feed dogs 1/2 tooth above throat plate,
level at maximum height.
1.
Folder out of position
1.
Adjust folder per Section 4-6.
Trouble-Shooting
Page: 1
1. Edge guide out of adjustment 1.
1. 1.
4.4. Feed dogs out of adjustment
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
Adjust left or right per Section 4-6
1 thru 5 Check each item and correct as needed.
SECTION 5 - - TROUBLE-SHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Motor not running
Thread Breaks
GENERAL
POCKET CONVEYOR
Raw material edges.
(Material not even in fold)
Sew line not within limits
Too much or too little
material in fold
Incorrect feeding
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

1. Too much tension on presser foot 1. Decrease tension at sewing machine.
2. Folder mouth too low 2. Check lower tab, it should overlap throat plate.
3. Improper conveyor speed 3. Readjust per Section 4-6
1. 1. Check pressure on conveyor.
2. 2.
Clean out lint.
Trouble-Shooting
Page: 2
Adjust per Section 4-2.
SECTION 5 - - TROUBLE-SHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Presser foot will not accept
material
Improper material
feeding before folder
POCKET CONVEYOR
Conveyor belt hesitates or stops
with clicking sounds
Adjust per Section 4-2
Adjust per Section 4-2.
Conveyor belt binding
Overload on conveyor belt
Lint clogging pulleys in conveyor
1. Not enough clearance at operator
end.
Conveyor does not engage
material at proper location
Hem gathered (puckering) 1.
Incorrect conveyor speed, if hem is
concave, decrease speed. If hem is
convex, increase belt speed.
1.
1.
1. Inadequate clearance at operator
end of conveyor 1.
1. Inadequate clearance at operator
end of conveyor 1.
Set conveyor per adjustment in Section 4-7.
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
7-CN025 Oil once per day
6-PH130CV-A
2-SK003
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
Belt too slow Belt too fast

4. Reflective tape worn 4. Replace reflective tape.
1. MRS switch burned out 1. Check with volt meter. Replace if necessary.
2. Exhaust ports clogged on solenoids 2. Clean or replace if necessary.
Trouble-Shooting
Page: 3
Stacking cylinder slow or
excessive cylinder rod rotation. 1. 1.
SECTION 5 - - TROUBLE-SHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Pockets not stacking properly
Cut and Stack
Replace cylinder.Cylinder worn out
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
1.
2.
3.
Check clipper blades. Replace if necessary.
Check venturi system. Ensure line and container
are clear of debris.
Adjust per Section 4-4.
Adjust sensitivity.
1.
2.
3.
Thread not being cut consistently
Conveyor not pushing pocket to
end of plate
Sensor out of adjustment or burned
out
Stacker not working or not
properly releasing pocket.
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
2-CL002
2-CL003
6-PH136T-PFB
(5642 / TM625)
6-PH141UBT-B
(Union Special 56500)

Trouble-Shooting
Page: 4
1.
2.
Check jam nut. Tighten if necessary.
Replace bearing or shaft if necessary.
SECTION 5 - - TROUBLE-SHOOTING
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Too much or too little index.
Correct index is 1/8" per pocket.
CURVED CONVEYOR
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
1.
2.
Adjust cylinder stop or jam nut loose
Slippage at roller clutch bearing and
drive shaft
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA
5-PH215CC-A
2-BR013
2-FC026
5-PH205CC-A
2-BR012
6-PH216CC-A
2-BR009
5-PH206CC-A
6-PH216CC-A
2-BR009
5-PH206CC-A
5-PH205CC-A
(2) 2-BR012
2-BT009
2-CN007

Part #
2-BR017
2-BT006
6-PH1036-A
2-CL001
2-CL002
2-CL003
2-CN005
7-CN025
6-PH130CV-A
2-CY028
2-ET003
2-SW005
2-TE003
2-TE004
5-PH137T-A
5-PH136PFT-B
6-PH106D1-A
6-PH106D2-A
AUTOMATED APPAREL EQUIPMENT
DESCRIPTION Quantity
RECOMMENDED CUSTOMER STOCK LEVEL FOR
VMW MODEL #1500 POCKET HEMMER
Serving the Sewn Products Industry for Over 40 Years
Recommended list of replacement parts which customers should keep on-hand.
Quantities are for one VMW Pocket Hemming Machine.
6
1
1
1
1
1 Set
2
1
2
1
2
1
1
16042RS-066 Bearing (Conveyor)
Timing Belt
Non-Marking Table Top Conveyor Belt
Oster Clipper
Oster Blade
Oster Brush Set
#25 Chain Connecting Link
#25 Chain Assembly
25B20 Conveyor Sprocket
D-12 Stacking Cylinder
Banner Sensor
MRS Switch
2
HC-1 Circuit Board-Hemmer Control
SC-1 Circuit Board for Stacker
Pocket Clamp Tips
Thread Hold-Down Guide
D4 U-Joint
1
3
D6 U-Joint
1
1
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA

Item
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
Serving the Sewn Products Industry for Over 40 Years
Cutting Plate
Magnetic Reed Switch (Stacking Cylinder)
Pocket Clamp Cylinder
Oster Blade
Panic Button (Retracts Stacker)
2-EL037
2-EL035
Stacking Plate
Light Bulb (6.3 Volt, 17 watt)
H205-30-35 Fuse Holder
30 Amp, 250 Volt Fuse Holder
2-EL026
2-EL038
6-PH106D1-A
5-PH110D-A
5-PH145TA-A
6-PH141UBT-B
7-PH105D
POCKET HEMMER #1500 PARTS LIST
Pocket Clamp Cylinder Tips
Folder Plate Assy - 1/2" Needle Feed
Description
2-CY027
2-CL002
2-CL001
5-PH154T-A
5-PH137T-A
8-PH135-PFB
5-PH163-C
2-SW005
Part Number
6-PH106D2-A
5-PH139T-A
6-PH136T-PFB
5-PH152T-A
2-CL003
2-ZM001
5-PH156T-A
2-FC001
6-PH260T-A
2-HD024
8-PH231T-C
5-PH168TA-C
2-EL032
2-EL014
5-PH163TA-C
2-EL003
AGC-1/2 AMP, 250 Volt Fuse
Pocket Conveyor Drive Shaft
Folder Plate Assy - 1/2" Drop Feed
Pocket Clamp Bracket 4-3/16"
Electrical Control Box
D-12 Stacking Cylinder
Oster Clipper
Oster Brush Set
Zero Max w/ Screw Control
Pocket Stop
Filter Regulator
BFRNR 3-2/10 AMP Fuse
2-CY028
Universal Joint, D-4
Thread Hold Down Guide (Drop Feed)
Venturi Cap (2 Needle)
Pocket Guide Support
Thumb Screw (2-1/2")
Universal Joint, D-6
Cylinder Mounting Bracket
Thread Hold Down Guide (Needle Feed)
Pocket Guide
Conveyor Clamp Nut
Collier Equipment, Inc. Ph: [phone] / Fx: [phone]
100 Mill Creek Circle / PO Box 175 / Lexington, Alabama 35648 USA