Whyte E-180 S MX Manual

eMTB FULL SUSPENSION RANGE
eMTB GRAVITY ENDURO SUSPENSION
E-180 S MX E-180 RS MX E-180 WORKS MX
eMTB TRAIL ENDURO SUSPENSION
E-160 S MX E-160 S 27.5”
E-160 RS MX E-160 RS 27.5”
eMTB TRAIL ENDURO 29ER SUSPENSION
E-160 S 29ER E-160 RS 29ER
Supplementary Service Manual 2022 Edition 1

Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction
2.0 Geometry
3.0 Preparations for Riding:
3.1 Making Adjustments
3.2 Whyte Seat Clamp Adjustment
3.3 Set up of Fork
3.4 Set up of Rear Damper
3.5 Suspension Tuning Log
4.0 Safety
5.0 Lubrication
6.0 Servicing the Rear Suspension:
6.1 Removing the Rear Shock, Links and Swinging Arm
6.1.1 Removing the Rear Shock Only
6.1.2 Removing the other Rear Suspension Parts
6.1.3 Removing the Chain-Stay & Bearings from the Main Frame
6.2 Stripping and Re-Assembling Other Bearings
6.2.1 Extraction of Bearings
6.2.2 Insertion of Bearings
6.2.3 Re-Assembly of Shield Washers / Spacers
6.3 Re-Assembling the Rear Suspension
6.3.1 Re-Assembly of the Rear Suspension
6.3.2 Re-Assembly of Chain-Stays & Bearings onto Main Frame
6.3.3 Re-Assembly of Link, Shape-It Link & Seat-Stays onto Main Frame
6.3.4 Re-Assembling of the Rear Shock onto the Main Frame
7.0 Servicing the Dropout System:
7.1 SRAM UDH (Universal Derailleur Hanger) System
7.1.1: Removal of the SRAM UDH
7.1.2: Re-Assembly of the SRAM UDH
7.2 Whyte 12mm QR Shaft
8.0 Internal Cables & Hoses:
8.1 To Replace Cable or Hose Outers
9.0 Removal of Battery
9.1 Battery Removal
9.2 Battery Installation
9.3 Location of Bosch Battery Charge Port
10.0 Torque Settings
11.0 Owner’s Notes

1.0: INTRODUCTION
Thanks for choosing to purchase this Whyte product. We hope you will enjoy all the benefits its advanced design and engineeri ng
will bring to your riding experience.
This manual will guide you through the set-up, safety and maintenance procedures that are specific to your Whyte bike. For
other more general information, we strongly advise that you also read thoroughly the General Instruction Manual that is also
supplied with your new bike.
Also, please note that the specification of all the components that are fitted to your bike as standard may be obtained from the
Whyte Bikes website www.whytebikes.com
Please remember, if you are in any doubt about your ability to safely service or repair your Whyte bike, DO NOT RIDE IT and
instead arrange for a professional bicycle mechanic at your local Whyte dealer to do the job correctly.
Bundled with this manual, may be some of the respective manufacturers instructions and manuals for the branded parts that are
fitted to your Whyte bike. Please take time to study all the relevant instruction manuals to ensure you have a continually safe
and well set-up bike before every ride, and to help you build up a relationship of knowledge between you and your Whyte Dealer.
Happy and safe riding,
Whyte design team.
2.0: GEOMETRY
The geometry of the full suspension range of Whyte Bikes is available from the Whyte Bikes website www.whytebikes.com
Note: The designation “MX” is used on bike models that use a 29” front wheel and a 27.5” rear wheel
3.0: PREPARATIONS FOR RIDING
3.1: MAKING ADJUSTMENTS
Please refer to the specific component manufacturers manual or published technical information about adjusting the compo-
nents on your Whyte bike. Instructions may be downloaded from the relevant manufacturer’s internet site, as shown in the
table below.
CAUTION! If you are uncertain in any way, about making adjustments to any components on you Whyte bike, then DO
NOT RIDE YOUR BIKE.
Contact your Whyte dealer who will be able to advise you on how to go about setting up you Whyte bike for riding, and or mak-
ing adjustments to the components fitted to your Whyte bike.
Bosch www.bosch-ebike.com
Crank Brothers www.crankbrothers.com
DT Swiss www.dtswiss.com
Easton www.eastoncycling.com
Formula www.formulahubs.com
Fox www.ridefox.com/subhome.php?m=bike
Hope www.hopetech.com
Joytech www.joy-tech.com.tw
Maxxis www.maxxis.com
Race Face www.raceface.com
Shimano www.shimano.com
SRAM www.sram.com
TRP www.trpcycling.com
WTB www.wtb.com

3.2: WHYTE SEAT CLAMP ADJUSTMENT
Tools required:
5mm A/F Allen Key
Torque Wrench
To adjust the Whyte Seat Clamp, using a 5mm Allen key, undo the M5 socket head screw, until the seat post becomes free in the
seat tube of the frame. Adjust the height of the Seat Post in accordance with the relevant seat post manufacturers instructions. To
retighten the Whyte seat clamp, tighten the M5 socket head cap screw in a clockwise direction and torque the M5 socket head cap
screw to the recommended torque setting as set out in Section 10 of this manual.
CAUTION! Do no forcibly pull up or push down on a cable or hydraulically operated dropper seat post without first making
sure that he cable or hose is moving freely inside the whole frame to facilitate the seat post adjustment.
CAUTION! Avoid over-tightening the seat clamp
In particular, “dropper” seat posts that have moving internal components may not work correctly if the seat clamp is over tight-
ened. This could lead to the seat post’s function to be impaired, leading to cause a potential crash or injury.
CAUTION! When adjusting the saddle height you MUST obey the Minimum insertion depth requirement marked on the
Seat Post (7). Also consult the seat-pin manufacturers instructions in conjunction with these notes.

3.3: SET UP OF FORK
Tools Required: Good Quality Shock Pump
Small Ruler
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always stop riding when making adjustments of any kind to the bicycle!
The front suspension fork fitted to your Whyte bike will be pre-set with the standard settings. Before riding, you may need to
adjust these setting. First is the Sag setting on the fork. This is to ensure the forks are set-up correctly for your own body
weight, so the fork will perform as intended.
To set Sag on the front fork, you need to measure the amount the fork compresses when you sit on the bike in the normal rid-
ing position. See the table for our recommendation of front fork sag on your Whyte bike. To achieve this you will need to adjust
the air spring pressure inside the fork.
Refer to the specification table in this manual, and then to the relevant fork manufacturers set up instructions to find how to
adjust the air spring pressure in the fork. Using a shock pump, either add or remove air until Sag is correctly set.
Please note that for the detailed instructions for servicing and all matters relating to the forks fitted to your Whyte bike, please
refer to the manufacturers instructions.
Rebound Damping adjustment:
This adjustment fine-tunes the speed at which the wheel returns to its normal ride height after hitting a bump. Refer to the
relevant manufacturers instructions to find out how to adjust the rebound damping. To demonstrate the effect of this function,
turn the adjuster to its slowest setting. Press down on the handlebars to compress the forks, then release the load. The
suspension recovers very slowly to its original position.
Repeat the above with the adjuster turned to the fastest setting and the difference will be seen immediately the load is
released. We recommend the optimum setting is to adjust the re-bound damping to be as slow as possible, but not so slow that
the normal ride height is not recovered. On very rough terrain, if the bike becomes progressively lower as more bumps are hit
then the re-bound damping is set too slow. On the other hand if the bike feels choppy and not plush then the re-bound
damping is too fast. A bit of trial and error is needed to get the exact setting.
3.4: SET UP OF REAR DAMPER
Tools Required: Good Quality Shock Pump.
Small Ruler
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always stop riding when making adjustments of any kind to the bicycle!
Your Whyte bike is fitted with an air spring rear shock absorber. This means that the air pressure in the shock absorber
determines the spring rate. The correct ‘sag’ can be found using the sliding ‘O’ ring fitted to the shaft of the shock piston. Slide
the ‘O’ ring against the shock body. Then gently sit on the bike in your normal riding position and with normal riding gear,
including back pack if applicable, and also raise your feet off the floor. Carefully dismount and measure the distance the ‘O’ ring
has moved away from the shock body.
The optimum distance for the Quad-Link rear suspension system is shown in the table. If there is less than that distance fit a
shock pump and release air pressure. Conversely if there is greater than that distance, fit the shock pump and increase air.
Repeat the ‘sag’ test until the recommended sag distance is achieved.
Rear Suspension Set-up - Rebound Damping:
When the damper unit is being compressed, this is known as the compression stroke. As the suspension unit recovers from
compression back towards its full length, this is called the re-bound stroke. All the shocks fitted as standard to the Whyte full
suspension mountain bikes have factory set compression damping, and manually adjustable rebound damping.

Rebound Damping Adjustment:
The advice in section 3.3 about the fork rebound damping adjustments also applies to the rear shock.
Platform Damping Adjustment:
The rear Shock fitted to your Whyte bike may have a “platform” facility to adjust the slow speed compression damping, e.g.
Fox “3pos w/Adj” or SRAM RockShox “Motion Control”. Please refer to the relevant shock manufactures technical information to
learn how to adjust these features.
Please note, that the Whyte rear suspension systems have been designed not to rely on excessive low speed compression
damping to obtain efficient pedalling performance, and turning on too much low speed damping on the rear shock will
compromise the suspensions sensitivity to small bump absorption and traction
Warning! For Whyte Bikes fitted with wireless suspension control systems, please refer to the manufacturers
instructions at all times.
3.5: SUSPENSION TUNING LOG
Record your best suspension settings in the table below, to restore them if necessary, e.g. after dealer servicing of the
suspension or if a friend has borrowed your bike
4.0: SAFETY
IMPORTANT: The following are intended to be advisory notes on the safe use of your Whyte bike. You should also read
thoroughly the latest version of the ‘Whyte General Instruction Manual’ also supplied with your new bike. If at any stage
you are uncertain about the safety or safe operation of the bike as a whole, or any specific component, then DO NOT RIDE
YOUR WHYTE and instead please consult the specific component manufacturers instruction manual or your Whyte Dealer for
advice.
Maximum Weight Limit for Whyte Suspension Bikes: 18st. / 114kg (including the rider’s equipment.)
WARNING: As is the case with all mechanical components, the bicycle is subjected to wear and high stresses. Different
materials and components may react to wear and stress fatigue in different ways. If the design life of a component has
been exceeded, it may fail suddenly causing possible injury to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches and decolouring in
highly stresses areas are showing that the component has exhausted its life time and has to be replaced. If you are in
any doubt about one or more components on your Whyte DO NOT RIDE YOUR BIKE. Consult the specific component
manufacturers literature, or take your bike to your local Whyte Dealer.
Designed for the following use:
Whyte electric suspension bicycles have been designed, tested and comply with ISO 4210-2 & EN-15194-2017
Safety Standards, for typical mountain biking use.
Date
Rider Weight
(including all rid-
ing kit)
(kg or lbs)
Fork Pressure
(bar or P.S.I)
Fork Rebound Damping
(# of clicks from slowest
setting)
Shock Pressure
(bar or P.S.I)
Shock Rebound Damping
(# of clicks from slowest
setting)
Model Shock Stroke Sag (25%) Firmer Sag (30%) Plusher
E-160 (29”) 57.5mm 14.5mm 17.25mm
E-160 MX 57.5mm 14.5mm 17.25mm
E-160 (27.5”) 57.5mm 14mm 17.25mm
E-180 MX 65mm 16.25mm 19.5mm

5.0: LUBRICATION
Please refer to the Whyte General Instruction Manual for general guidance about lubricating many of the components on your
Whyte bicycle.
For the correct lubrication regime and maintenance of all individual parts on a Whyte bicycle, please refer to the specific
component manufacturers detailed instructions either bundled with this manual or for further information visit the specific
manufacturers website or on-line resources.
6.0: SERVICING THE REAR SUSPENSION
6.1: Removing the Rear Shock, Link & Swinging Arm:
Tools Required: 5mm AF Allen Key - ball ended (1 off)
6mm AF Allen Key (1 off)
T-25 Torx® Keys (2 off)
6.1.1 Removing the Rear Shock:
General Note. Make sure to retain and store carefully, all components as they become disassembled from the bike.
Whilst referencing figure 1, using the T-25 Torx Keys, undo the two M5 x 16mm long Socket-head Cap Screws (10) from the
Ø8mm x 31mm long Hollow Pivot Pin (8) that passes through the Main Frame (1) and front of the Rear Shock Absorber (6).
Whichever Cap Screw (10) becomes undone first, remove it and the adjacent Collar (9), and pull the Pivot Pin (8) all the way
out from the other side.
Next we recommend to remove the Shap-It Link (5) from the Link (4). Using the 6mm AF Allen Key, unscrew and remove the
two M15 Pivot Screws (16).You can now remove the Rear Shock Absorber (6) and Shape-It Link from the bike.
Once removed from the bike, to separate the Rear Shock Absorber (6) from the Shape-it Link (5), using the 5mm AF Allen Key,
undo and remove the M8 Socket head Cap Screw (7) from the Shape-it Link (5). Next separate the rear of the Rear Shock
Absorber (6) from the Shape-it Link (5).

Figure 1: Disassembling the Rear Suspension
Figure 2: Disassembling the Rear Suspension
(Note: Main Frame 1 not shown for clarity)

6.1.2 Removing the Other Rear Suspension Parts
Whilst referencing figure 1 and 2, using the 6mm AF Allen Key, unscrew and remove the M15 Pivot Screws (15) at the front of
the Link (4).
Next, using the 6mm AF Allen Key, unscrew and remove the two M15 Pivot Screws (14) at the rear of the chain-stays (2).
Caution! Be careful to retain all the shield washers (Items 2 & 3, Figure 5) ready for re-assembly.
To separate the Seat-stays (3) from the Link (4) and Main Frame (1), whilst referencing figure 1, using the 6mm AF Allen Key,
unscrew and remove the two M15 Pivot Screws (17) at the front of the Seat-stays (3). The Seat-stays (3) may now be re-
moved from the Link (4). Be careful to retain all the shield washers (Items 2 & 3, Fig 4) ready for re-assembly.
6.1.3 Removing the Chain Stay & Bearings from the Main Frame
Whilst referencing figure 3, using the 5mm A/F Allen Key, partially unscrew the M6 x 20 long Cap Screw (10) from the Pivot Pin
80mm long, expanding collet, M15 thread (12). Using the 6mm AF Allen Key, unscrew and remove the Pivot Pin 80mm long,
expanding collet, M15 thread (12). The Cap Screw (10) may now be completely removed, to allow the tapered sleeve (11) to
be released from the collet (12). Note this must be extracted from the Non-Drive-Side of the Pivot Pin.
The Chain-stays (14) may now be removed from the Main Frame (15). Be careful to retain the two shield washers (19) ready
for re-assembly.
Using the press tools shown in Figure 7, extract the 6802-2RS bearings (20) from both sides of the Main Frame (15). Align the
removal tool carefully with the slots in the Spacer (21).
Figure 3: Disassembly of the Rear Suspension

Fig. 1 & 2: Table of Components
Fig 3: Table of Components
Item Description
1Main Frame
2Chain Stays
3Seat Stays
4Link
5Shape-It Link
6Rear Shock Absorber
7M6 Socket Head Cap Screw
8 8mm Hollow Pivot Pin 31mm Long
9Collar for M5 Screws
10 M5 x 16 Socket Head Cap Screws T25 Torx
11 Pivot Pin 80mm Long
12 Tapered Sleeve for Expanding Collet
13 M6 x 20 Long Socket Head Cap Screw
14 M15 Pivot Screw 28mm Long
15 M15 Pivot Screw 28mm Long
16 M15 Pivot Screw 18mm Long
17 M15 Pivot Screw 28mm Long
Item Description
10 M6 x 20 long Capscrew (5mm A/F Internal Hex)
11 Tapered Sleeve for Expanding Collet
12 Pivot Pin 80mm long, expanding collet, M15 thread.
14 Chain-stays
15 Main Frame
19 Shield Washer (O.D. 23mm)
20 Bearing: 3802V2RD (MN) KR-BOLU
21 Internal Spacer (49mm long)

6.2: STRIPPING AND RE-ASSEMBLING OTHER BEARINGS
6.2.1: EXTRACTION OF BEARINGS
Tools required: Bearing press tool
6mm A/F Allen Key
10mm A/F Allen Key
13mm A/F Spanner
18mm A/F Spanner
To remove the Bearings (4) from the Link or Rear of the Seat-stay. Assemble the parts as shown in figure 6. Using the 6mm
Allen Key and 13mm spanner, tighten the assembly together until the bearing (4) is pressed out of the mating component (6).
Repeat on all other bearings.
To remove the Bearings (4) from the Bottom Bracket Yoke (6). Assemble the parts shown in figure 7. Using the 10mm Allen
Key and 18mm spanner, tighten the assembly together until the bearing (4) is pressed out of the mating component (6).
Repeat on all other bearings.
6.2.2: INSERTION OF BEARINGS
Tools required: Bearing press tool
6mm A/F Allen Key
10mm A/F Allen Key
13mm A/F Spanner
18mm A/F Spanner
Loctite 638
Before inserting the bearings, make sure all the components are clean from dirt and have been thoroughly de-greased.
To press the bearings (4) into the mating component (6) apply a small amount of Loctite 638 to the outside diameter of the
bearing and to the inside bore of the mating component (6). Next assemble the components as illustrated in either Figure 6, or
7. It is very important to make sure the bearing (4) and Bearing Insertion tool 1 (5) are squarely seated against the mating
component (6). With great care, slowly tighten the M8 Socket head cap screw (6) with the 6mm Allen key and the nut (2) with
the 13mm Spanner until you can see the bearing (4) being pressed squarely into the mating component (6). For the assembly
shown in figure 7, use the 10mm A/F Allen Key & the 18mm A/F Spanner. Once the bearing is fully seated an you can no
longer tighten either the M8 or M12 Socket Head Cap Screws further, undo the nut and bolt and remove any excess Loctite
from around the Bearing, particularly in any internal threads. Repeat for the remaining Bearings.
IMPORTANT! Allow 24 hours for the Loctite to totally cure.
6.2.3: RE-ASSEMBLY OF SHIELD WASHERS / SPACERS
Tools required: SKF LGEP2 or Castrol Spherol AP3 or Finish Line Teflon White Lithium Complex grease
SKF LGAF 3E” or “Castrol Optimol T” Anti-Fret Paste
Apply a good quantity of SKF LGEP2 or Castrol Spherol AP3 or Finish Line Teflon White Lithium-Complex grease on top of the
Bearings. The grease should completely cover each bearing and be applied on both sides of each bearing subsequent to the
bearing being pressed into it’s housing in the relevant component.
Assemble the shield washer components (Items 2 or 3 in figures 14 & 15). If you have applied enough grease, it should spread
from under the shield washer or spacer components as they are positioned. Wipe this excess grease away from around the
shield washer or spacer components.
APPLICATION OF “SKF LGAF 3E” or “Castrol Optimol T” ANTI-FRET PASTES
Once the link & Chain-Stay components have been assembled correctly, either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T paste must
be applied to all outside faces of the shield washer components that contact the Main Frame and Chain-Stay. It is additionally
recommended to apply anti-fret paste to the mating contact surfaces on the Main Frame and Chain-Stay.

Figure 4: Assembly of Link
Item Description
1Bearing: 3802V2RD (MN) KR-BOLU
2Shield washer (O.D. 20mm)
3Shield washer (O.D. 23mm)
4Alloy Link

Figure 5: Assembly
of the Seat-stays
Item Description
1Bearing: 3802V2RD (MN) KR-BOLU
2Middle shield washer (O.D. 20mm)
3Outer shield washer (O.D. 23mm)
4Right Seat-stay
5Left Seat-stay

Figure 6: Bearing Insertion & Extraction
Item: Description
1 M8 Capscrew ISO4162 55 long
2M8 Washer ISO 7089
3M8 Nut ISO 4032
4Bearing: 3802V2RD (MN) KR-BOLU
5Bearing Tool 1
6Mating Component (ie: Link or Seat-Stay)
7Bearing Tool 2

Figure 7: Bearing Insertion & Extraction
Item: Description
1M8 Capscrew ISO4762 55 long
2M12 Nut ISO 4035
3I. D. 12 Washer ISO 7089
4Bearing: 3802V2RD (MN) KR-BOLU
5 Bearing Tool 1
6Mating Component (ie: Bottom Bracket Yoke)
7Bearing Tool 2
8Internal Bearing Spacer

6.3: RE-ASSEMBLING THE REAR SUSPENSION
6.3.1: Re-assembly of the Rear Suspension
Tools Required: 5mm AF Allen Keys (2 off, 1 fitted to a 5Nm to 25Nm Torque Wrench)
6mm AF Allen Key (2 off, 1 fitted to a 5Nm to 25Nm Torque Wrench)
T-25 Torx® Keys (2 off, 1 fitted to a 5Nm to 25Nm Torque Wrench)
The re-assembly of the rear suspension is essentially the reverse of the dis-assembly procedures 6.1.1, 6.1.2 &
6.1.3.
6.3.2 Re-Assembly of Chain-stays & Bearings onto Main Frame
Before inserting the bearings, make sure all the components are clean from dirt and have been thoroughly de-greased. Apply a
small amount of Loctite 638 to the outside diameter of the bearing and to the inside mating bore of the main Frame (15). Using
the press tools shown in Figure 7, insert the bearings (20) into both sides of the Main Frame (15). Ensure the spacer (21) is
located between the bearings (20).
Referencing figure 3, apply either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T paste to all faces of the shield washers (19), Pivot Pin (12)
and Screw (10). Place the Shield Washers (19) alongside the Bearings (20). Insert & align the Chain-Stays (14) between the
Washers (19). Insert the Pivot Pin (12) from the left side of the Chain-Stays (14). Screw the Pivot Pin (12) io the thread in
the drive-side of the Chain-Stays (14). Insert the Tapered Sleeve (11) and screw in the M6 x 20 long Capscrew (10).
Using a 6mm Socket, first torque tighten the drive-side of the Pivot Pin (12), to the recommended torque settings (refer to the
Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0). Then tighten the M6 x 20 long Capscrew (10), again to the recommended torque
settings (refer to the Tightening torque settings in Section 11.0). Wipe off any excess grease from around the chain-stays and
seat-stays.
6.3.3: Re-Assembly of Link, Shape-It Link & Seat-Stay onto the Main Frame
IMPORTANT: Prior to Re-Assembly of the Seat Stay to the Link, make sure the seat tube of the main frame is inside of
the assembly. Also make sure all suspension components and linkages are the correct orientation and the correct side facing
upwards.
Referencing Fig. 1 and . Starting with the Seat-stay (3) and the Link (4), first check that the shield washers are in place in the
Link and apply either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T anti-fret paste to the contacting faces between the shield washers and
Seat-stay (3). Then ensure that the shield washers in the Link (4) are not pushed out, as you place the seat-stay (3) inside it.
Then pass an M15 x 28 long flanged alloy screw (17) through the right side of the seat-stay (3), the adjacent shield washers
and the bearing in the Link (4). Using the 5mm A/F Allen Key, torque tighten the M15 screw (17) to the recommended torque
settings (refer to the Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0). Repeat that task to assemble the left side of the seat-stay (3)
to the Link (4), also ensuring that the other shield washer in the Link (4) is not pushed out.
Next, to assemble the Shap-It Link (5) and the Link (4), reference figure 2 (Main Frame (1) not shown for clarity), first check
that the shield washers are in place in the Link and apply either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T anti-fret paste to the
contacting faces between the shield washers and Shape-It Link (5). Then ensure that the shield washers in the Link (4) are not
pushed out, as you place the shock extender (7) inside them. Then pass an M15 x 20 long flanged alloy screw (16) through
the Link (4), the bearing in Link, the adjacent shield washer, & into the thread of one arm of the Shape-It Link (5). Using a
6mm A/F Allen Key, torque tighten the M15 Flanged Screw (17) to the recommended torque settings (refer to the Tightening
torque settings in Section 10.0). Repeat that task to assemble the other arm of the Shape-It Link (5) to the Link (4), also
ensuring that the other shield washer in the Link (4) is not pushed out.
Next, to assemble the Link (4) to the Main Frame seat tube (1), check that the shield washers are in place on the inside of the
bearings that are installed in front of the Link (4) and apply either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T anti-fret paste to the
contacting faces between those shield washers and the link mounting on the main frame seat tube (1). Insert the Link (4)
between the Main Frame seat tube (1). Then pass an M15 x 28 Long Flanged Alloy Screw (15) through the Link (4), the bearing
in Link, the adjacent shield washer & screw into the Main Frame link mounting (1). Screw in an M15 x 28 Long Flanged Alloy
Screw (15) from the left side of the link (4) . Using a 6mm A/F Allen Key, torque tighten the M15 x 28 Long Flanged Alloy
Screws (15) to the recommended torque settings (refer to the Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0). Wipe off any excess
grease.

Finally to assemble the Chainstays (2) to the Seat-Stays (3), reference Figure 1, check that the shield washers are in place on
both sides of each Seat-stay leg (3) (see items 2 & 3 in Figure 5) and apply either SKF LGAF 3E or Castrol Optimol T anti-fret
paste to the contacting faces between those shield washers and the Chain-stays (2). Ensure that those shield washers are not
pushed out, as you lower the Seat-stays (3) into the Chain-stays (2). Pass an M15 x 28 long Flanged Screw (14) through each
Chain-stay (2) and Seat-stay leg (3). Using the 6 A/F Allen key, torque tighten those screws to the recommended torque set-
tings (refer to the Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0). Wipe off any excess grease from around the chain-stays (2) and
seat-stays (3).
6.3.4 Re-Assembly of the Rear Shock onto the Frameset.
Reference figure 8. Take the Rear Shock Absorber (6) and apply either SKF LG/AF 3E or Castrol Optimol T anti-fret paste onto
the side faces of the shock bushes, that contact the Main Frame and Shape-It Link. Slide the front of the Rear Shock Absorber
(6) into the Main Frame (1) and Shape-It Link (5).
IMPORTANT. Ensure the Rear Shock (6) and the Shape-It Link (5) are the correct way up, with any dials and lev-
ers facing downwards and towards the front of the frameset, reference figure 8.
Reference Figure 1: Make sure that the Ø8mm holes in the Main Frame (1) and the front of the Rear Shock Absorber (6) are all
concentric with each other, and push the Ø8mm x 31mm long Hollow Pivot Pin (3) all the way through. Place a Collar (9) over
both ends of the Ø8mm x 31mm long Hollow Pivot Pin (8) and screw in an M5 x 16mm long Socket-head Cap-screw (10) into
both ends of the Pivot Pin (8). Using the T-25 Torx) Keys, torque tighten the M5 Cap-screws to the recommended torque
settings (refer to the Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0).
Next, make sure that the holes in the Shape-It Link (5) line up with the rear end of the Rear Shock Absorber (6). Insert the
M8 Socket Head Cap Screw (7). Using the 5mm AF Allen Key torque tighten to the recommended torque settings (refer to the
Tightening torque settings in Section 10.0). Wipe off any excess grease.
Figure 8: Correct Orientation: Shock & Shape-It Link

Item Description
1Sram UDH (Universal Derailleur Hanger) Fixing Bolt
2Sram UDH Fixing Washer
3Sram UDH Derailleur Hanger
4RH Dropout
5LH Dropout
Figure 9: Sram UDH Dropout
7.0: SERVICING THE DROPOUT SYSTEM
7.1: SRAM UDH (Universal Derailleur Hanger) System
Tools Required: 8mm Allen Key, Torque Wrench.
NOTE: The UDH Fixing Bolt (1) is a Left-Hand Thread. Refer to all Sram Documentation pertaining to the Sram UDH system.
7.1.1: Removal of the SRAM UDH
Reference figure 18. To remove the Sram UDH derailleur hanger, using the 8mm Allen Key, undo the 8mm UDH fixing bolt (1)
and remove from the frame taking care not to loose the Fixing Washer (2) on removal of the Bolt. Note, the UDH Fixing Bolt
(1) is a LH thread, which means to undo the bolt you turn the 8mm Allen Key in a Clockwise direction when looking straight at
the head of the bolt. The UDH (3) can now slide out of the RH Dropout (4) and be removed.
7.1.2: Re-assembly of the SRAM UDH
Reference Fig.18. Re-assembly of the UDH is the reverse of the removal process. Note the correct torque setting in Section 11
NOTE: The SRAM UDH dropout system is designed by SRAM. As such, please refer to SRAM technical
documentation for the full details of how to service and replace the SRAM UDH system.

7.2: WHYTE 12mm QR SHAFT
Referencing Figure 10 and 11. The rear wheel is attached to the frame by a lever-actuated mechanism that allows you to install
and remove the wheel without tools.
To undo and remove the axle from the bicycle, turn the lever anti-clockwise until the axle is disengaged from the threads in the
RH dropout, then pull the axle out of the hub and through the LH dropout to remove it from the frame. Note. If you have
placed the bike in a work-stand take care to support the rear wheel as you remove the axle, to prevent the rear wheel falling
out of the frame and potentially damaging any components in the process. If you are in the habit of turning your bicycle upside
-down to remove the wheels, please take care not to damage the saddle or any of the controls on the handlebars when doing
so.
To re-assemble the axle, ensure the wheel is placed correctly into the frame and the hub is aligned with the dropouts. Insert
the Axle into the LH dropout and push it through the dropout, hub and into the RH dropout. Turn the lever clockwise. After
inserting the axle through the dropout of the frame and wheel hub, it will be necessary to turn the lever several times to fully
engage the axle into the threads in the RH dropout before the axle tightens. The required minimum hand-force is 15 Nm.
WARNING: If you are unsure about how tight the axle needs to be done up to, DO NOT ride your bike and
instead consult your Whyte Dealer who will be able to advise and demonstrate the correct closing force.
Ensure that the lever is back to its normal position after every adjustment is made. To do this, pull the spring-loaded ever arm
away from the bike (Fig. 10 Arrow No.1) until the lever arm dis-engages from the axle (Figure 11) Whilst the lever is dis-
engaged from the axle, rotate the lever (Fig.10 Arrow No.2) around to a ‘9’0’clock’ position as shown in Fig. 11. Next release
the spring-loaded Lever arm to re-engage the Lever Arm with the axle (Fig.10 Arrow No.3).
Under no circumstances should the 4mm Allen Screw in the centre of the Axle Lever arm be loosened. Do not loosen the screw
for opening or closing of the Axle System.
Always check for safety before riding
Before every ride check your thru axle System is in the Locked (CLOSED) position. Make sure that the wheels are correctly
installed on the bicycle frame or fork, and the lever does not contact any part of the bicycle. If the lever contacts anything, it
might not be closed; replace the thru axle or consult your dealer for safety. Ensure that the tightening force of the thru axle
lever is minimum 15 Nm.
WARNING: A thru axle that is not correctly adjusted and closed to a minimum hand force of 15Nm, may allow the
wheel to work or become loose or become detached from the bike unexpectedly. This could cause the rider to lose
control and fall and may result in serious injury or death. Always make sure the thru axle is adjusted and closed
correctly before every ride as part of your Pre-ride checks.
Figure 10: 12mm QR Axle
Figure 11: 12mm QR Axle
Re-Positioning Lever Arm

8.0: INTERNAL CABLES & HOSES
Tools Required: Whyte Grommet Insertion Tool
Short length of inner gear cable
A torch / Light source
General Note: Take care when removing and refitting or replacing, the Whyte rubber grommets, Too much force applied to the
rubber will damage them. Always use the Whyte Grommet Insertion tool to facilitate the removal and insertion of the Whyte
Grommets into the frame.
8.1 To replace cable or hose outers.
Reference figures 12 to 17. When replacing outer cables and or brake hoses, most of the holes in the frame are large enough
(25mm long x 8mm wide) simply to manipulate the outer cable or brake hose into or out of the hole. However the two holes
for the rear derailleur cable in the chain-stay are necessarily small, therefore the following method is needed to refit a new
outer cable:
Figures 12 & 13: Using a piece of inner cable, feed into the entrance hole in the right-side chain-stay, near the drop-out, then
through the exit hole at the opposite end of the chain-stay. This will probably need several attempts pushing to & fro to find
the hole, please be patient!
Figures 14 & 15: At the drop-out end, push the outer cable onto the inner cable and then feed the outer cable into the chain-
stay following the same path as the inner cable.
Figure 16: Make sure the inner cable is held tight where it emerges from the chain-stay at the opposite end, otherwise it will be
pushed out. Eventually the outer cable will reach the front of the chain-stay. Then manipulate both the inner cable and the
outer cable, whilst also pushing the outer cable forwards with a lot of force and the outer cable should also find the exit hole.
Figure 17: Push the outer cable all the way through the exit hole and finally remove the inner cable.
For the replacement of Hydraulic Brake hoses, please follow the instructions set out in the relevant manufacturers service
documents when changing and re-bleeding hydraulic brake hoses.
Figure 17
Figure 16
Figure 15
Figure 14
Figure 12 Figure 13