Woodford R34 Guide

R34 YARD HYDRANTS
TROUBLESHOOTING AND MAINTENANCE
Water leaks from the nozzle when the hydrant is off.
Check the closing force of the handle. The handle, at the end of the closing
stroke, should "snap" closed. Follow instructions below on how to adjust the
linkage. The plunger (10108) may be worn or damaged and needs to be
replaced. Follow instructions below on how to remove the operating rod. If the
hydrant leaks just after installation, the valve seat may be fouled with debris,
such as small rocks. The operating rod will have to be removed and the
hydrant casing flushed.
Packing leak. Water leaks from around brass stem below the linkage
when the hydrant is on.
The packing nut will occasionally need to be tightened to stop a packing leak.
Tighten the packing nut until snug and the leak stops. Persistent leaks will
require a new packing (10101).
Hydrant leaks from below the ground level when the hydrant is on.
A small leak may be the result of a leak at the drain hole. Replace the plunger
if it is old and worn. Follow instructions below on how remove the operating
pipe. A large leak may be the result of a hole in the pipe casing caused by
electrolysis corrosion. Some soil conditions can cause premature failure of the
pipe casing near the valve body. Brass pipe is recommended for these
conditions.
Hydrant will not drain when shut off.
Make sure there are no attachments on the nozzle, such as a hose or vacuum
breaker. Improper linkage adjustment (not enough tension) may prevent the
hydrant from draining properly. A poor drain field around the valve body or a
blocked drain hole will prevent drainage.
Linkage adjustment.
The adjustment can be made with the water supply on by tightening the
packing nut enough to hold the hydrant closed. To increase the tension: With
the hydrant in a closed position, remove the two linkage screws. Lift the
handle out of the way. Turn the pivot block counterclockwise 1-2 full turns. Re-
attached the linkage and screws, test the tension of the handle. The handle, at
the end of the closing stroke, should "snap" closed. To decrease the tension:
Lift the handle part way open and remove the linkage screws. Turn the pivot
block clockwise 1-2 full turns. Re-attached the linkage and screws, test the

tension of the handle. The handle, at the end of the closing stroke, should
"snap" closed.
Operating rod assembly removal.
Shut off the water supply to the hydrant. Lift the handle to the open position.
Remove the two linkage screws and rotate handle out of the way. Unscrew
and remove the pivot block from the brass operating rod. Loosen the packing
nut. Remove the head casting using two pipe wrenches, one on the pipe and
one on the head casting. Remove the operating rod assembly by gripping the
steel rod (not the brass stem) with vise grips and prying up. To remove the
plunger, use either pipe wrenches or vise grips. When reinstalling the
operating rod assembly in the hydrant, first partially screw the pivot block onto
the brass stem to protect the threads. Use a soft mallet or a block of wood to
drive the plunger into the valve seat. Applying a lubricant that is safe for
rubber such as silicone on the plunger rubber will aid in seating the rubber.
Remove the pivot block from the brass stem and reinstall the head casting.
Adjust the linkage to the proper tension.