Zeagle Razor User manual

Regulator/Valve, Service Manual
For Zeagle RaZor 1st and Envoy 2nd Stage Scuba Regulators and Filler Whip
Manual p/n 347-3005, Copyright 2007
The
....with Envoy
2nd Stage

* An asterisk next to the Item Number
means that part is included in the Standard
Service Kit. The Service Kit Part # for the
1st Stage is 345-1001. The 2nd Stage
Service Kit Part # for the Envoy 2nd stage
used with the RaZor is 345-2000.
RaZor Reg / Valve
Assembly
Model # 310-6230
RaZor 1st Stage Parts
ITEM # PART # DESCRIPTION......
1 175-1630 Label
2 341-FB02-CL Cap (regulator)
3* 160-0022-N7 O-ring (large end of piston)
4 341-FB04-CD Piston
5* 160-0008-N7 O-ring (small end of piston)
6* 341-FB06-GA Seat (for piston)
7 341-FB07-VH Spring( main)
8 341-FB08-SA Shim
9 341-0127-CD LP Port Plug (includes O-ring)
10* 160-0011-N7 O-ring (for LP hose & port plugs)
11 341-FB16-CD Burst Plug
12 341-FB15-ZA Burst Disc
13 341-FB14-ZA Gasket (copper)
14 341-FB09-CL Body
15* 341-0139-BA Conical Filter
16 341-FB11-AA Dip Tube Assembly
17* 160-0214-N9 O-ring (for neck of cylinder)
18* 160-0012-N9 O-ring (for QD Fitting, Bonnet Nut & HP Port Plug)
19 341-0128-CD HP Port Plug (includes O-ring)
20 341-FB24-CA Plug Assembly
21 341-FB25-CD Stem
22* 341-FB26-GA Seal
23 341-FB27-CD Bonnet Nut
24 341-FB28-GA Washer
25 341-FB29-CL Handwheel
26 341-FB30-VH Spring (for Handwheel)
27 341-FB31-CD Nut
28 341-FB17-VH Spring (for check valve)
29 341-FB18-CD Plug (check valve)
30* 160-0004-L9 O-ring (on check valve)
31 341-FB21-CD Quick Disconnect (male)
32* 160-0013-N9 O-ring (for Cap)
33 341-FB23-SA Cap (fill)
34 341-FA10-CL Filling Adpater
35 160-0906-N9 O-ring (for face of filling adapter)

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.0 Introduction
2.0 Specifications
2.1 Torque Specifications
2.2 Model Numbers
3.0 O-rings Reference Chart (First Stage)
4.0 First Stage Procedures
4.1 Tools Required for First Stage Servicing
4.2 Disassembly of the RaZor First Stage
4.3 Cleaning and Inspection of the First Stage
4.4 Preliminary Assembly of the First Stage
4.5 Set-up and Testing of the First Stage
5.0 Envoy Second Stage Service Procedures
5.1 Tools Required for Second Stage Servicing
5.2 Disassembly of the Second Stage
5.3 Cleaning and Inspection of the Second Stage
5.4 Preliminary Assembly of the Second Stage
5.5 Set-up of the Second Stage
5.6 Final Assembly of the Second Stage
5.7 Testing of the Second Stage
6.0 Helpful Hints
6.1 Troubleshooting
6.2 Parts Cleaning Recommendations
6.3 Commonly Used Cleaning Solutions
6.4 Handling Tips
7.0 Warranty and Maintenance Information
7.1 Proper Procedure for Warranty Paperwork
7.2 Scheduled Maintenance
7.3 Order Form (sample)
7.4 O-rings Reference Chart (Second Stage)
Before You Begin ...........
Read these instructions completely before you begin servicing the regulator or filling whip.
These instructions are intended for people who have been AUTHORIZED by Zeagle to repair
Zeagle Scuba equipment. If you are not so authorized - STOP.
FIRST STAGE
The letter at the beginning of the serial number on the first stage indicates the model of that first
stage. For example, if the serial number begins with “A” it is a DS-V non-swivel first stage (e.g.
A001324). “G” is a RaZor (Valve/Regulator) first stage, “E” is a ReZort first stage and “F” is a
Flathead 7 first stage. For further information, contact Zeagle.
2

1.0 INTRODUCTION
1.0.1 The procedures in this manual apply to the Zeagle RaZor Valve/Regulator, the Envoy type
2nd stage that comes attached to it, and the Filling Whip. Refer to the exploded views as you
read the service section of the manual. The Item Numbers referred to in the service section are
those seen in the corresponding exploded view
! WARNING !
NEVER tighten the hose fitting to the first stage with more than 40 in. lbs. (4.5 Nm) of torque.
The inlet hose fitting will be weakened by over tightening. Failure to heed this warning may result
in serious injury or death.
NOTE: All Zeagle Scuba Regulators have service kits available which contain the parts which
must be changed at every annual service no matter what their condition. The standard annual
service kit part numbers are shown in the parts list. All other parts not contained in these kits
must be inspected by the technician and changed if necessary. Parts will be handled under war-
ranty, only if they have failed due to problems with material or workmanship.
! WARNING !
Zeagle Scuba Regulators are manufactured using materials suitable for use with oxygen
enriched gases (i.e. Nitrox, etc.) providing the oxygen content does not exceed 40%. Equipment
intended for enriched air (Nitrox) use, must not be used with regular compressed breathing air
or other gases. Regulators intended for enriched air use, can be serviced only by technicians
trained by one of the major oxygen enriched air training agencies. Failure to heed this warning
may result in serious injury or death.
1.0.2 This manual gives breakdowns of regulator parts, equipment specifications, servicing
instructions, troubleshooting recommendations, and guidelines for proper care of Zeagle regula-
tors. This manual is intended for use only by persons specially trained and authorized to service
Zeagle Scuba equipment.
1.0.3 Anyone attempting to service or repair Zeagle Scuba regulators must have a thorough
understanding of the principles of operation of scuba regulators and valves, as well as the appro-
priate mechanical ability. The technician must be properly trained in the safe use of compressed
air and the various tools and cleaning solutions involved in the procedures outlined in this manu-
al.
1.0.4 The best source for current part numbers for any of the parts listed in this manual is your
current parts and price list from Zeagle.
1.0.5 Zeagle conducts seminars on a regular basis to train technicians in proper service and
repair procedures for all current Zeagle regulators. In addition, all Zeagle dealers and their
staff members are encouraged to attend the seminars to gain an in-depth understanding of the
construction, special features and operation of Zeagle regulators. For information on the dates
and locations of upcoming Zeagle service seminars near you, contact Zeagle or a Zeagle Sales
Representative. Service Videos in various formats (VHS, CD, DVD, etc.) are also available.
3

NOTE: You must be authorized by Zeagle to work on Zeagle Scuba equipment. You can
obtain proper authorization by attending all appropriate seminars given in your area. This is the
only way you can become an authorized Zeagle technician.
1.0.6 If you have any questions, or need more information, contact your Zeagle Scuba
Sales Representative or Zeagle Customer Service. You can e-mail you technical questions to
2.0 SPECIFICATIONS
Zeagle RaZor
AIR FLOW ............................... 33 cu. ft. (935 liters/min). @ 1 atmosphere
INHALATION RESISTANCE ... 0.9” -2.0” (2.3 - 5.08 cm) w.c. @ 1 atmosphere
EXHALATION RESISTANCE .. 0.6” (1.52 cm) w.c. max. @ 1 atm.
RECOMMENDED LUBRICANT LTI Christo-Lube 111®
A. FIRST STAGE REGULATOR/VALVE COMBINATION
TYPE Tank Valve with Unbalanced Flow-by Piston Regulator Combined
WEIGHT ................................... 1.54 lb. (.69 kg)
INTERSTAGE PRESSURE ...... 120-140 psi (8.3-9.7 bar) @ 3000 psi inlet (207 bar)
# LOW PRESSURE PORTS .... 4 (3/8”-24 UNF)
# HIGH PRESSURE PORTS ... 1 (7/16”-20 UNF)
# FILL PORTS .......................... 1 (7/16”-20 UNF)
MATERIALS ............................. Body -------- CDA-360 Brass
O-rings ----- Buna-N
Seat --------- Advanced Polymer
B. SECOND STAGE REGULATOR (Envoy)
TYPE .......................................... Downstream valve, balanced diaphragm.
Diver Adjustable Dive / Pre-Dive Venturi. Lever
and Technician-Externally-Adjustable Resistance
Control Knob.
WEIGHT..................................... .4 lb. (.18 kg) ( w/o hose )
HOSE LENGTH ........................ 48 in. (1.23 m)(as equipped on Rapid Diver BCD)
MATERIALS .............................. Cover ----- Flexible Thermoplastic
Case ------ Rigid Thermoplastic
Poppet Seat ---- Advanced Elastomer
O-rings - Buna-N
Diaphragm ------ Elastomeric Polymer
Exhaust Valve-Thermoplastic Elastomer
Mouthpiece ---- Silicone
4

2.1 Torque Specifications:
Description Item # Torque
RaZor into Tank -- 20-30 ft/lbs (27-41 Nm)
Cap 2 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
Valve Bonnet Nut 23 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
Burst Plug 11 50-55 in/lb (5.6-6.2 Nm)
Dip Tube 16 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
HP Balance Plug 35 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm) (with 1/4” Allen wrench)
QD Fill Probe 31 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
Port Plugs 9, 19 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm) (with 5/32” Allen wrench)
Hose inlet end 30 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
Hose outlet end 30 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm)
2nd Stage Nut 7 1-2 ft/lb (2-3 Nm)
2.2 Zeagle Scuba Regulator Model Numbers:
Model # Description
350-1110 Flathead-VI Yoke 1st stage, with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-1121 Flathead-VI DIN 1st stage, with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-1210 Flathead-XP Yoke 1st stage, with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-1221 Flathead-XP DIN 1st stage, with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-2110 50-D (swivel turret), Yoke 1st stage with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-2121 50-D DIN 1st stage, with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-3110 Envoy Yoke 1st stage with Envoy 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-3121 Envoy DIN 1st stage, with Envoy 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-4110 DS-V Yoke 1st stage with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-4121 DS-V DIN 1st stage with ZX 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-5210 Envoy Deluxe Yoke 1st stage with Envoy 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-5221 Envoy Deluxe DIN 1st stage, Envoy 2nd Stage-30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
350-6230 RaZor, Valve/Reg 1st stage with Envoy 2nd Stage - 44” Hose
350-7210 ReZort, Yoke 1st stage with Envoy 2nd Stage - 30” Hose
350-7221 ReZort, DIN 1st stage with Envoy 2nd Stage - 30” Hose + DIN to Yoke Converter
320-1110 2nd stage only, ZX Octopus 2nd Stage, with yellow cover - 36” hose
320-1115 2nd stage only, ZX 2nd Stage, with gray cover - 30” hose
320-3115 2nd stage only, Envoy 2nd Stage, with gray cover - 30” hose
320-3110 2nd stage only, Envoy Octopus 2nd Stage, with yellow cover - 36” hose
310-1110 1st stage only, Flathead-VI Yoke
310-1120 1st stage only, Flathead-VI DIN
310-2110 1st stage only, 50-D (swivel turret), Yoke
310-2120 1st stage only, 50-D (swivel turret), DIN
310-4110 1st stage only, DS-V (non-swivel), Yoke
310-4120 1st stage only, DS-V (non-swivel), DIN
310-3210 1st stage only, Envoy, Yoke
310-3220 1st stage only, Envoy, DIN
310-5210 1st stage only, ReZort, Yoke
310-5220 1st stage only, ReZort, DIN
310-6230 1st stage only, RaZor, Tank Valve / Regulator Combination
330-0001 DIN to Yoke Converter (allows a DIN equipped regulator to be mounted on a Yoke Valve with no tools.)
5

160-0214-N9 (17) to seal base to cylinder
160-0014-N9 (35) for Filling Adapter (35)
160-0022-N7 (3) for large end of piston (4)
160-0012-N9 (18) for bonnet nut (23), QD probe (31)
160-0011-N7 (10) for LP ports (9)
160-0004-L9 (30) (white urethane) for check valve (29)
160-0008-N7 (5) for small end of piston (4)
1st Stage O- Rings (included in Kit) # 345-1001
for RaZor Valve/Regulator Model # 310-6230
6
3.0
160-0013-N9 (32) for QD cap (2)

4.0 SERVICE PROCEDURES FOR THE ZEAGLE RaZor, Valve/Regulator Combination
4.0.1 Before you begin disassembly of the regulator, test the first and second stages for output pressures and
leakage. Pre-testing in this way will help the technician to pinpoint any specific problems requiring repair.
4.0.2 The work area must be clean and well lighted, with clean compressed air available to
blow sand and dirt from parts.
4.1 TOOLS & ITEMS REQUIRED FOR RaZor 1st STAGE SERVICING
- 5/32” Allen wrench (p/n 347-0532)
- 3/16” Allen wrench (p/n 347-0316)
- 1/16” drill bit
- 6” or 8” good quality adjustable wrenches for hose connections.
- 10” or 15” good quality adjustable wrenches for the Cap and Body
- 1st Stage Annual Service Kit p/n 345-1001
- Clean Shop Rags
- LTI Christo-Lube 111® (p/n 347-.0111), or Dow-Corning 111® Silicone Grease
- Service Video Tape for this regulator (p/n 347-0103) or Service CD ROM (p/n 347-0103C) or
DVD (p/n 347-0103D)
- Intermediate Pressure Testing Gauge
4.2 DISASSEMBLY OF THE RaZor FIRST STAGE FOR OVERHAUL
To view all of the parts used in the RaZor first stage, look at the inside front cover of this manual. The brack-
eted numbers in the text refer to the corresponding circled item numbers on the exploded view drawing.
4.2.1 CAREFULLY bleed ALL of the air from the cylinder that the RaZor 1st stage is installed in by opening
the Valve (25) and depressing the Purge Button on the 2nd stage until the reading on the submersible pres-
sure gauge is between 50 and 100 psi. Use the 6” adjustable wrench to carefully turn the Burst Plug (11)
counter-clockwise just until you hear the final pressure being relieved. Do not remove the Burst Plug (11)
at this time. Remove a low pressure port plug to insure that all cylinder pressure is relieved as the cylinder
warms back up. The purpose of this exercise is to loosen the Burst Disc (12) for later removal.
4.2.2 Use 6” or 8” adjustable wrenches to disconnect all hoses from the first stage. Pull back the hose protec-
tor from the inlet end of the hose. Inspect the hoses for wear. Pay particular attention to the area where the
metal ferrules meet the rubber hose material. Remove and discard the O-rings from each end of the hose.
Clean, rinse, and blow-dry the interior bores of the hoses. Replace the hoses if necessary.
Note: Hose Protectors are easier to slide back from the 1st stage end of the hose if they are twisted and
pulled when the hose is still installed in the 1st stage. If a hose protector is particularly difficult to pull back,
try removing the hose and soaking the hose protector end in hot water to soften it up. Temporarily reinstall
the hose and try pulling and twisting the hose protector again. 7

4.2.3 With the Razor Valve/Regulator still installed tightly in the cylinder (AND ALL AIR BLED FROM THE
CYLINDER), use a 10” or 15” adjustable wrench to loosen (not remove) the Cap (2) from the Body (14).
4.2.4 Use a 3/16” Allen wrench to remove all port plugs from the body. Discard the port plug O-rings. (10,
18)
4.2.5 Use the 6” adjustable wrench to loosen and remove the male Quick Disconnect probe (31) from the
body. When removing probe, be careful not to lose the Spring (28) or Check Valve Plug (29). Discard the
Probe and Plug O-rings (18, 30, 32)
4.2.6 Turn the Valve Handwheel (25) so the Valve is about 1/2 way between open and closed. Use a 5/32”
Allen wrench to remove the Nut (27) from the Valve. Remove the Spring (26), Handwheel (25), and Washer
(24) from the Stem (21).
4.2.7 Use the 6” adjustable wrench too loosen and remove the Bonnet Nut (23). Remove the Stem (21)
from the Bonnet Nut and use it as a tool to turn the Plug Assembly (20) out of the body. (See Photo 1)
8
Plug Assembly (20) removal
using Stem (25) as a tool.
Photo 1
If the Valve was not turned 1/2 way between open and closed as described in step 4.2.6, you may need to
install the Handwheel (25) temporarily back on the Stem to turn the Plug Assembly out with more force.
4.2.8 Remove and discard the O-ring (18) and Seal (22) from the Bonnet Nut (23).
4.2.9 Unscrew the Burst Plug (11) that was previously loosened in step 4.2.1. Tip the tank and body so that
the Burst Disc (12) and Gasket (13) fall out. If the Gasket (13) does not fall out when the body is tipped,
you may need to pry it out with a soft brass pick. Be EXTREMELY careful and do not scratch the surface
under the gasket, since a scratch on the body at the gasket area will create a leak. The gasket can be
reused once or twice. If you are going to reuse it and it does not fall out easily, leave it in place when the
reg is cleaned. Check that it is still in place during assembly.
4.2.10 At this point, all of the ports on the body should be empty.

9
4.2.11 Hold the cylinder with a firm strap band or mount it in a tank vise. Use normal precautions, so that
the surface of the cylinder is not marred or damaged. Use a good 10” or 15” adjustable wrench to grip the
wrench flats on the RaZor body tightly. You can also use an HP Port Wrench. Apply a counter-clockwise
force to remove the RaZor from the cylinder. (See Photo 2)
4.2.12 Remove the valve thread O-ring (17) from the RaZor and discard it.
4.2.13 Use a 6” adjustable wrench to remove the Dip Tube (16) from the Body (14). Remove and discard
the Filter (15) from the Body.
4.2.14 Remove the Cap (2) from the Body (14). It should be hand-tight from step 4.2.3. Remove any
Spacer(s) (8), the Spring (7) and the Piston (4) from the Cap. Remove and discard the O-rings (3, 5) from
the piston. Whenever possible, try to remove the O-rings by pinching them with the fingers and rolling them
out of the groove.
! WARNING ! If a sharp pick is used to remove the O-rings, it should be made from soft brass, not
steel. ANY scratches left in the groove when removing O-rings will cause leaks (bubbling out of the
Cap ambient pressure ports) and the piston will have to be replaced to stop these leaks.
Photo 2
Photo 3
4.2.13 Remove the Seat (6) from the Piston (4) by
pushing it out with a 1/16” drill bit. Place one end of
the drill bit on a flat hard surface. Lower the large end
of the Piston over the drill bit until the flat end of the
drill bit rests against the back side of the Seat. Push
the Piston firmly down straight on the drill bit, until the
seat is pushed out of the piston. Discard the old Seat.
See Photo # 3.
Removing the RaZor from the Cylinder

4.3 Cleaning and Inspection of the 1st Stage
4.3.1 Clean all metal parts of the first stage in an ultrasonic cleaner or cleaning solution. See Section 6.3
for recommendations on cleaning solutions. Remove the O-rings before cleaning any metal parts since
the soft O-ring material will absorb cleaning energy from the ultrasonic cleaner reducing its effectiveness.
If major visible corrosion or deposits exist on parts, use a bristle brush, wooden, or plastic stick to rub the
deposits off. Allowing acidic cleaning solutions to do all of the work if deposits are severe, will result in
damage to internal chrome plating which will make parts even more susceptible to future corrosion.
4.3.2 Remove the regulator parts from the cleaning solution. Rinse with clean fresh water, then blow
internal passageways dry with clean, dry compressed air.
4.3.3 Inspect all O-ring grooves for scratches or wear. If the regulator was leaking air because of scratch-
es or wear, replace the parts. If some corrosion deposits persist, carefully wipe them away with a plastic
scrubbing cloth or plastic or wooden dowel. Blow any resulting dust out of the regulator parts.
4.3.4 Closely examine the sealing cones (orifices) in the Body (14) where the valve Plug Assembly (20)
and where the Seat (6) of the Piston (4) seal.
4.4 PRELIMINARY ASSEMBLY OF THE FIRST STAGE
4.4.1 To determine the identity of each O-ring in the Service Kit, remove them from the bag and use
the O-ring Identification Chart on the front page of this manual. Lay each O-ring over its corresponding
picture on the page and read the description. Before installing new O-rings into the regulator, lightly lubri-
cate the O-rings with LTI Christo-Lube 111® (for enriched air regulators), or Dow-Corning 111® silicone
grease. The most effective way to lubricate the kit O-rings is to put them in a small plastic bag with a pea
sized amount of grease. Rub the O-rings and grease together in the bag until all the O-rings are coated
evenly. Try not to wipe the lubrication off the O-rings when assembling them onto other parts.
4.4.2 Use the Stem (21) to turn the Plug Assembly (20) clockwise in the valve port in the Body (4) until it
bottoms.
4.4.3 Install a new lubricated O-ring (18) onto the valve Bonnet Nut (23).
4.4.4 Install a new lubricated Teflon Seal (22) into the Bonnet Nut (23).
4.4.5 Install the Stem (21) into the Bonnet Nut (23).
4.4.6 With the Stem (21) slightly protruding from the Bonnet Nut, insert the Stem’s tang into the slot of the
Plug Assembly (20). Turn the Bonnet Nut Clock-wise to screw it into the Body (14). NOTE: While screw-
ing the Bonnet Nut into the body, periodically twist the Stem and the Plug Assembly to be sure that they
are properly engaged. Tightening the Bonnet Nut down without the tang of the stem engaged in the Plug
Assembly can damage the tang on the Stem. Tighten the Bonnet Nut (23) to 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm) of torque.
4.4.7 Lubricate with a small amount of grease and install the Teflon Washer (24) onto the Stem (24).
4.4.8 Install the Handwheel (25) onto the stem.
4.4.9 Install the Spring (26) into the Handwheel.
10

4.4.10 Install the valve Nut (27) onto the Stem (21). Use a 5/32” Allen wrench to tighten the Nut until the outer
edge of the nut is flush with the top edge of the Handwheel (25).
4.4.11 Position the Body (14) so that the port marked “FILL” is facing up. Place the Spring (28) into the FILL
port with the wide end of the spring facing down.
4.4.12 Install the O-ring (30) onto the check valve Plug (29). NOTE: This O-ring is quite stiff. A technique
for installing the O-ring onto the Plug is to place the new O-ring on a clean flat surface. Grip the Plug with
a pair of pliers. Push the Plug stem into the hole of the O-ring until the stem touches the flat surface. See
Photo # 4. Push the O-ring the rest of the way into place with the fingers.
Photo 4
Installing the Plug (29) into the O-ring (30).
(The Kit O-ring may be black)
4.4.13 Place the Plug and white O-ring assembly into the Spring (28) with the O-ring facing up.
4.4.14 Install the O-ring (18) onto the Quick Disconnect (31) over the threads that will screw into the Body.
4.4.15 Install the O-ring (32) onto the Quick Disconnect (31) over the threads that the Cap (33) will screw
onto.
! WARNING ! The QD Cap O-ring (31) is just slightly larger than the typical HP Port O-ring. Be very
careful using the O-ring Chart, to make sure you are selecting the proper O-ring from the Service Kit.
Failure to install the proper O-ring will result in premature O-ring failure and leakage.
4.4.16 Install the Quick Disconnect (31) into the “FILL” port over the Spring (28) and Plug (29).
Tighten the QD Probe (31) to 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm).
4.4.17 Install the Fill Cap (33) onto the QD Probe (31) hand tight.
4.4.18 Hold the Body (14) so that the Burst Plug Port is facing up. Drop the Burst Gasket (13) into the port
first. (Bulge outwards if it is used.) Drop the Burst Disc (12) on top of the gasket. If the Gasket or Disc do
not fall properly in place, use something soft like a plastic toothpick to push them into place.
4.4.18 Install the Burst Plug (11) over the Burst Disc. Tighten the Burst Plug to 50-55 in/lb (5.6-6.2 Nm).
11

4.4.19 Install the Filter (15) into the tank thread end of the body with the narrow end first. Install the Dip Tube
Assembly (16) over the Filter. Tighten the Dip Tube with 2-3 ft/lb (3-4 Nm) of torque.
4.4.20 Install the O-ring (17) onto the thread end of the body.
4.4.21 Use the fingertip to spread a film of grease on the inside of the Cap (2) where the large O-ring (3)
slides.
12
Photo 5
Installing the Seat (6) into the Piston (4)
4.4.22 Place the piston Seat (6) on a clean flat surface and press the Piston (4) stem straight over the seat
until the new seat is installed into the end of the Piston. See Photo 5.
4.4.23 Install the pre-lubricated (see 4.4.1) O-rings (3, 5) onto the piston. Carefully guide the large end of the
Piston into the Cap until it bottoms. Use a gentle rocking motion of necessary to move the Piston into the
Cap, but do not cock it at too severe an angle since this may cause the Piston to gouge the sealing surface
of the Cap.
4.4.24 Support the Body (14) so that the Cap threaded end is facing up. Use the same number of Shims (8)
that were installed in the Spring Cavity when you took the RaZor apart. If there was one Shim, it goes on
the Body side of the Spring (7). If there were two Shims, install one at each end of the Spring.
4.4.25 Install the Spring (7) on top of the Shim.
4.4.26 Lubricate the threads on the Cap (2) with grease. Bring the Cap with its Piston (4) installed, over the
Spring and Shim sitting in the cavity of the body and screw them together as far as you can by hand.
4.4.27 Install the new O-ring (35) from the Service Kit into the face of the Filling Adapter (35).
4.4.28 Wipe a dab of grease on the first (outward) three male threads on the Regulator. Install the Regulator
into its Cylinder hand tight. Mount the cylinder in a secure plastic band tool or tank vise that will not mar the
finish on the cylinder. Use a wrench on two wrench flats on the regulator (that do not have Port Plugs or
Hoses in them yet) to tighten the regulator into the cylinder with 20-30 ft/lbs (27-41 Nm) of torque.
4.4.29 Use a wrench to snug the Cap (2) onto the body with 1-5 ft/lbs (1.4- 7 Nm) of torque.

4.5 SET-UP AND TESTING THE FIRST STAGE
Note: The RaZor regulator has an unbalanced piston 1st stage. Intermediate pressure will begin in the
higher end of the range with high tank pressures and drop as the tank pressure decreases with use. For this
reason, the RaZor’s intermediate pressure must be tested and set at the highest inlet (cylinder) pressure that
the regulator is going to see during use. This is usually 3000-3500 psi (207-241 bar).
4.5.1 Install the normal hoses, fittings and all but one LP Port Plug into the ports of the 1st stage.
4.5.2 In the remaining open port, install an intermediate pressure gauge. Make sure at least one of the ports
has a functioning 2nd stage installed or that the intermediate pressure gauge has an Over-Pressure Relief
Valve.
4.5.3 Turn the Valve Handwheel (25) on the RaZor clockwise to the OFF position.
4.5.4 Slowly (while observing proper safe filling procedures) fill the cylinder using either the 341-FA10-
CL Yoke Fill Adapter supplied with every RaZor, or the 330-6048-AA Filling Whip and Valve Assembly.
Remember that for proper set-up, the cylinder must be filled to the full rated pressure. Disconnect the filling
whip or adapter when finished.
4.5.5 Listen carefully for any leaks. Immerse the RaZor in water if leaks are suspected but not confirmed.
If leaks are found, correct the problem causing the leaks before proceeding.
4.5.6 Position the intermediate pressure gauge so the dial can be seen. See Photo 6.
13
Checking the Intermediate Pressure with a Gauge
4.5.7 Turn the air on to the regulator section of the RaZor by SLOWLY turning the Handwheel (25) coun-
ter-clockwise while listening for any unusual air leaks. If any are heard, turn the air off immediately and
determine the source of the leak. If no leaks are found, watch the intermediate pressure gauge reading rise
as you continue turning the air on slowly. It should stop before 160 psig (11 bar).
4.5.8 If the pressure gauge continues to rise above 160 psig (11 bar), turn the air supply off immediately and
inspect the regulator to determine the cause.
Photo 6

4.5.9 Depress the 2nd stage purge cover fully, then release it several times to clear particles from the regu-
lator, and to work the internal parts into place. To prevent uncontrolled free flows after pushing the purge
cover, keep the venturi control lever on the second stage in the “-” (negative position).
4.5.10 The pressure range for Zeagle RaZor Regulators at 3000 psi inlet pressure is 120-150 psi ( 8.3-
10.3 bar). Add Shims (8) in either side of the spring (7) to raise the intermediate pressure. Remove Shims
to lower the pressure. The pressure increase per shim is not linear due to the rate of the spring, so no
specific increase per spring can be given. Generally, only add a shim if the intermediate pressure (when
the cylinder pressure is 3000 psi) is below 120 (8.3 bar). Adding just one shim under these conditions will
not push the intermediate pressure above the maximum 160 pressure. Do not aim for a specific pressure
within the range, just add or remove shims to get the pressure within the range. The optimal intermediate
pressure for Zeagle RaZor regulators is 130 psi (10 bar), but any setting between 120 and 160 psi (8.3-11
bar) at 3000 psi (207 bar) inlet pressure will provide good stable performance.
4.5.11 After reaching the proper pressure setting, push the purge cover on the second stage again several
times and watch how the intermediate pressure reading responds. When the purge cover on the second
stage is depressed, the intermediate pressure reading will drop. When the purge cover is released the
pressure should return immediately to the proper lock-up pressure and stay there.
4.5.12 Let the regulator sit with the tank valve turned on for several minutes. The intermediate pressure
reading may rise about 3 psi in the first three seconds after lock-up, but after that it should not rise more
than another 4 psi (.3 bar) in five minutes. If it rises more than 4 psi refer to the Trouble-shooting Section
6.1 of this manual.
Note: Never set the output pressure of the first stage above 160 psig (11 bar).
5.0 ENVOY SECOND STAGE SERVICE PROCEDURES
The RaZor regulator comes equipped with a Zeagle Envoy 2nd stage. Procedures covered in this manual
section apply to the ENVOY second stage. To access the exploded view of this model open the back cover
of this manual. This second stage is used as a primary unit, gray or black purge cover and 30” hose (model
assembly number 320-3115) and as an advanced octopus unit, yellow purge cover and 36” hose (model
assembly number 320-3110). See the picture on the front page of this manual section to identify this model
type. The serial number for this model always starts with “J”. The number can be seen by curling back the
mouthpiece and looking at the end of the mouth-tube.
5.1 TOOLS REQUIRED (or suggested) FOR SECOND STAGE SERVICING
- Two good quality 6” or 8” (15 or 20 cm) adjustable wrenches
- Side cutting pliers
- Cover Ring Removal and Purge Dome Alignment Tool ( p/n 347-1005)
- 3/16” Allen Wrench (p/n 347-0316)
- 2nd Stage, Inline Adjusting Tool - 3/16” Hex (p/n 347-0002)
- 2nd Stage Annual Service Kit (p/n 345-2000)
- Clean Shop Rags
- Dow-Corning Compound 111® Silicone Grease or LTI Christo-Lube 111® (p/n 347-0111)
- Service Video Tape for this regulator (p/n 347-0103) or Service CD ROM (p/n 347-0103C) or DVD (p/n
347-0103D)
14

5.2 DISASSEMBLY OF THE SECOND STAGE
! WARNING ! NEVER tighten the hose fitting to the first stage with more than 40 in. lbs. (4.5 Nm)
of torque. The inlet hose fitting can be weakened by over tightening.
To view the complete parts list of the second stage, open the back cover of this manual.
5.2.1 Use the 6” and 8” adjustable wrenches to loosen the hose nut from the valve tube (21). Remove the
hose assembly (30) from the second stage. Inspect the hose assembly for any cuts or cracks, especially on
the hose at the metal ferrules. Remove and discard the O-rings from each end of the hose. Clean, rinse, and
blow-dry the interior bores of the hoses. Replace the hose assembly if any cuts or cracks are found.
5.2.2 Remove the mouthpiece (12) by cutting the mouthpiece tie (11) with side cutting pliers. Discard the old
mouthpiece tie. Examine the condition of the mouthpiece. Pay particular attention to the area on top just
behind where the old tie tightened. This is a prime area for small holes to develop. If the mouthpiece is in
good condition, it can be reused.
5.2.3 Remove the exhaust tee (13) from the case by pulling it back and off the top edge of the retaining flange
on the housing. Note: The exhaust tee can be removed more easily if hot water from a tap is run over and
through it for about 1 minute.
5.2.4 Before removing the exhaust valve (14) from the housing (10), bend the valve over as far as it will go
from the top, bottom, left, and right sides. If it fails to snap back quickly, and does not lie perfectly flat against
the housing exhaust grid, the valve should be replaced. If it does snap back satisfactorily, remove it by pulling
it out with your fingers. Inspect the sealing edges. If they appear smooth, and the locking tab on the nipple
is good, the valve can be reused.
5.2.5 Unscrew the cover ring (1) from the housing (10).
5.2.6 Remove the diaphragm cover (3) and the diaphragm (4) from the housing (10).
If the cover is difficult to remove you can try several methods to loosen it;
- Heat the 2nd stage body surrounding the Ring by running hot water from a tap over it. When the plastic is
hot, it will expand and loosen the threads.
- Rubber pads are available to use in the hand to loosen tight jar lids. These pads will allow you to get a
better grip on the Cover Ring (1)
- Zeagle sells a Cover Ring Removal/Purge Cover Aligning Tool.The part number is 347-1005 See photo 7.
15
Photo 7
Note: Tool may also be black plastic.

5.2.7 For future reference, look at the lever (19) at this time. Notice how the pivot end of the lever is held into
the valve tube (21) by two plastic flanges on the housing. Note this positioning for re-assembly.
5.2.8 Hold the diaphragm up to a light source. Gently stretch the diaphragm and look for tears or pinholes.
If any are found, replace the diaphragm.
5.2.9 Loosen and remove the nut (7) from the valve tube (21)
5.2.10 Remove the plastic bushing (8) from the valve tube.
5.2.11 Remove and discard the O-ring (9) from the valve tube.
5.2.12 Use a 1/4” Allen Wrench to turn the black plastic spring adjust plug (29) fully counter clockwise until
it comes to its stop. Do not use an unreasonable force to do this. Stop turning the plug as soon as a resis-
tance is felt.
5.2.13 Depress the lever (19) fully onto the valve tube. Grasp the tab of the venturi control lever (16). While
pulling on the venturi control lever, push the valve tube assembly out of the housing (10).
5.2.14 Remove the venturi control lever (16) from the valve tube assembly. Remove and discard the O-ring
(15) from the venturi control lever.
5.2.15 Use a 1/4” Allen wrench to turn the spring adjust plug (29) clockwise 1/4” turn. The pin (20) will fall
out of the valve tube or can now be easily removed.
5.2.16 Turn the spring adjust plug (29) counter clockwise to remove it from the valve tube. Remove and
discard the O-ring (28).
5.2.17 The balancing chamber (26), spring (25) and piston (23) are removed at this time. They will often fall
out if the valve tube is tipped on its end. If the piston will not fall out, the lever (19) can be moved through its
full arc. If the piston still does not come out a 5/32” (4-5 mm) Allen wrench can be inserted through the male
threaded end of the valve tube, through the seat (18) to gently push the piston out.
5.2.18 Remove and discard the O-ring (27) from the outside of the valve tube (21).
16
Photo 8
One side of the 347-1005 tool is used to engage the notches on the Cover Ring (1). Once the notches are
engaged by the tool, it is easy to turn the Cover Ring off of the Housing by turning the tool counter -clockwise.
See photo 8.

5.2.19 The lever (19) should not be removed from the valve tube unnecessarily. However, it can be removed
from the valve body by carefully springing out one of the feet and pivoting it over the valve tube body. Do not
over-bend the lever legs. Straighten the legs if they are bent outward from parallel.
5.2.20 Remove and discard the seating seal (22) from the piston (23).
5.2.21 Remove and discard the very small O-ring (24) from the piston. This can be done by pinching a sec-
tion of the O-ring out of the groove with the fingernails. Then flip the O-ring off the end of the piston stem.
DO NOT USE SHARP METAL PICKS! Metal tools will damage the O-ring groove, which will cause a small
continuous second stage leak.
5.2.22 Use a 3/16” Allen wrench or the Zeagle 2nd Stage, Inline Adjusting Tool - 3/16” Hex (p/n 347-0002) to
turn the seat (18) counterclockwise enough turns to fully disengage the threads from the valve tube (21).
5.2.23 After the threads are disengaged, remove the seat (18) from the valve tube (21) by pulling and turning
counterclockwise at the same time. The seat will usually come out on the end of the Allen wrench. If it will
not come out, it can be pushed out with a soft wooden dowel however, care must be taken not to damage
the seat if it is pushed out.
5.2.24 Remove and discard the O-ring (17) from the seat.
5.3 CLEANING AND INSPECTION OF THE 2nd STAGE
5.3.1 Rinse all plastic and silicone parts in fresh warm soapy water solution. Rinse with clean warm water
and then blow the parts dry with compressed air to remove any sand and dust particles.
! WARNING !
DO NOT use vinegar or other acid solutions on the plastic parts since this will cause the plastic to become
brittle!
5.3.2 If necessary because of deposits or corrosion, clean all metal parts of the second stage in an ultrasonic
cleaner or cleaning solution. See Section 6.3 for recommendations on cleaning solutions.
5.3.3 Inspect the housing (10) for any cracks or nicks. Look particularly closely at the area where the exhaust
valve (14) seals and where the bushing (8) clamps. Replace the housing if any cracks are found.
5.3.4 Inspect the sealing surface on the seat (18) (where the seating seal (22) seals) for any nicks or scratch-
es. Replace the seat (18) if any serious defects are found at the sealing area, or if the threads appear worn
out.
5.3.5 Blow all dust and debris out of the orifice with clean compressed air.
5.3.6 Inspect the exhaust valve (14). Look carefully at the base of the barbed nipple where it comes out of
the middle of the valve. Look for any tearing at this point. Replace the valve if any tears are found. Replace
the valve if nicks or tears are found at the sealing edges of the valve.
5.3.7 During an Annual Overhaul, all parts included in the Annual Service Kit are replaced no matter what
the condition of those parts. Carefully examine all other parts of the second stage for signs of deterioration.
Replace those parts too where necessary
17

5.4 PRELIMINARY ASSEMBLY OF THE SECOND STAGE
5.4.1 Ensure that all parts are clean. To determine the identity of each O-ring in the Second Stage Service
Kit, remove them from the bag and use the O-ring Identification Chart on the back page of this section. Lay
each O-ring over its corresponding picture on the page and read the description.
Before installing new O-rings into the regulator, lightly lubricate the O-rings with Dow-Corning 111® Silicone
Grease or LTI Christo-Lube 111® (EXCEPT O-ring (9) that goes over the valve tube (21) male threaded
end).
5.4.2 Install the exhaust valve (14) into the case by inserting the nipple into the square hole from the outside
of the case. Reach inside the case and pull the nipple firmly with the fingers until you hear or feel it “click”
into place. Inspect the exhaust valve to see that it is properly seated. Take care not to get any lubricating
grease on the exhaust valve during this procedure.
5.4.3 Install a new O-ring (27) onto the outside of the valve tube (21).
5.4.4 If the lever (19) was removed, carefully re-fit it into the valve tube (21). To orient the
lever properly, hold the valve tube with the external threads to the left. Turn the valve tube until you can see
the hole where the air exits the valve tube (indicated by the arrow in photo). The lever is inserted so that
it hangs down and curves leans to the right. See Photo 9. Work the lever into the valve tube one foot at a
time so the lever legs are spread outwards as little as possible.
5.4.5 Insert the new seating seal (22) into the white piston (23).
5.4.6 Install the lubricated small O-ring (24) onto the piston tip.
5.4.7 Install the spring (25) onto the piston and the balance cylinder (26) onto the piston to make the shuttle
valve assembly.
5.4.8 Insert the shuttle valve assembly you have just assembled, into the valve tube (21) at the end with the
raised collar (opposite the external threaded end). See Photo 10.
Photo 9
18

19
5.4.9 When the shuttle assembly is inserted into the valve tube, it is important that the “L” shaped foot
on the piston section engages properly with the lever tabs that extend through the holes in the valve
tube. In Photo # 10, the “J” shaped foot has been highlighted with black marker so you can see the
“J” clearly. The piston is normally all white.
5.4.10 Insert the shuttle valve assembly as shown in Photo # 10. Push the assembly all of the way
into the valve tube. The first thing that might hang up on the tabs of the lever is the black seating
seal. Wiggle the lever to get this past the tabs. When the “J” shaped feet get to the lever tabs they
will lift the lever inwards as you push the assembly in.
5.4.11 Install a new well lubricated O-ring (28) onto the spring adjuster plug (29).
5.4.12 Insert the spring adjuster plug into the valve tube over the shuttle valve assembly you just
installed.
5.4.13 Turn the spring adjuster plug clock-wise until the O-ring and flange have passed the hole where
the pin (20) is installed.
5.4.14 Install the pin (20) into the valve tube (21).
5.4.15 Back the spring adjuster plug out counter-clockwise until it tightens against the pin (20), hold-
ing it in place.
5.4.16 Install the new O-ring (15) onto the venturi control lever (16).
5.4.17 While holding the tabs in place in the valve tube with two fingers, depress the lever (19) and
the slide the venturi control lever (16) into place on the valve tube (21).
5.4.18 Install the valve tube assembly into the housing (10). After assembly, make sure that the pivot
end of the lever is held into the valve tube (21) by two plastic flanges on the housing just as they did
when you took the housing apart (see step 5.2.7).
Photo 10
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