6mmFlyRC F-14 Tomcat User manual

Instruction Manual
F-14 Tomcat
DISCLAIMER
6mmFlyRC guarantees our kits to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does
not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall 6mmFlyRC's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, 6mmFlyRC reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that 6mmFlyRC has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-
assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to 6mmFlyRC for a full refund.
While this kit has been flight tested for normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, the
modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.
*Special thanks to Steve Shumate, who not only has provided the instructions for the T-38, F-14, F-15, F-18, and Saab Gripen, but has provided
much needed support to 6mmFlyRC. Without Steve, our job would be much harder.

Page 2
This model was designed to be built from either BlueCore fan-fold foam or
6 mm Depron foam. If using BlueCore, note you’ll need to peel the film
backing off the fuselage exterior parts to allow sanding the fuselage corners
to shape. Leave the film on the wing and empennage parts since it adds
strength, durability, and smoothness.
Note this model is best built using the following types of adhesives:
•Epoxy (both 5 minute and 30 minute)
•Odorless CA (with accelerator)
•Contact glue such as UHU Creativ for Styrofoam
•3M 77 spray adhesive
ProBond can also be used in place of epoxy. It is lighter than epoxy but
takes much longer to cure (overnight). I have personally found UHU Creativ
for Styrofoam (picture at left) to be the best glue for the majority of assembly,
since it’s easy to use, dries fast (less than 10 minutes), and is quite strong.
Begin by cutting out all of the paper parts templates with scissors, trimming
them to within approximately 1/8” of the lines. Then test fit all of the
templates onto the foam sheet, trying to minimize wasted foam as much as
possible. Once you’re satisfied with the arrangement, remove each template
individually and spray the back of the template LIGHTLY with 3M 77 spray
adhesive. Then replace the template onto the same spot on the foam sheet.
Repeat for every template.
After all the templates are tacked onto the foam, cut out all the pieces by
cutting on the lines with a SHARP hobby knife. When done, peel the paper
templates off of each piece and discard.

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1. Begin assembly with the forward fuselage. Lay the two fuselage sides
down flat on the work bench and glue the foam doublers to the locations
shown on the parts templates. Be sure to make two mirror image parts—a
left side and a right side.
Use a heat gun to gently heat the foam and form the curves in these
pieces. Hold each piece up next to the piece it mates to to judge the
curvature.
After the glue has dried, glue the three fuselage bulkheads to one of the
fuselage sides at the locations shown, making sure they are perpendicular.
2. Next glue the two fuselage sides together. Set the fuselage sides upright
and flat on the workbench, apply glue to the edge of the bulkheads, and
push the sides together.
After the glue has dried, glue this assembly to the fuselage bottom piece
as shown.
Glue the two forward fuselage top pieces in (forward of the canopy).

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3. Laminate the nose cone pieces together using 3M 77 spray adhesive.
Then glue the assembled nosecone block to the forward fuselage as
shown (5 minute epoxy recommended).
Once the glue has dried, carve the nose cone to shape. Start by tracing
the top view template on the top of the block and cutting the block to that
outline. Begin with coarse sandpaper (60 grit) to rough out the basic
shape, then move to progressively finer sandpaper (first 150, then 220 grit)
to do the final shaping.
Make the canopy using the same procedure. Note the canopy has two
smaller sill pieces that glue on to each side of the canopy to form the lower
sill.

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4. Begin assembly of the inlets. Be sure to make two mirror-image inlets!
First glue the small plywood stabilizer support squares to each side in the
locations shown on the plans, and then drill the 3/16” holes for the stab
pivots. Then glue the foam support strips as shown to both the inboard
and outboard inlet sides. Glue the taileron servo doubler to the inboard
inlet side.
Use a heat gun to gently form the required curves in these pieces. Hold
each piece next to the inlet bottom piece to judge the curvature required.

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5. Tack glue the three temporary inlet bulkheads to one side (these will be
removed later), and then tack glue the two inlet sides together.
Next glue the inlet bottom piece on. To make sure the inlets are
assembled perfectly square, hook the sides over a bench as shown and
hold the inlets flat against the bench as the glue dries.
After the glue has dried, sand the corners of the inlets to a well-rounded
shape.

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6. Glue the inlet diverters to the fuselage sides. Note the bottom of the
diverter butts up against the step in the fuselage bottom piece.
7. Laminate the five motor mount pieces together using 3M 77. Note the
tabbed piece goes in the middle. Then sand the assembly to a tapered
shape as shown.
Glue in the hardwood motor mount using 5 minute epoxy.

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8. Sand the forward fuselage to the contours shown. It’s important to do this
now before you glue the inlets to the side of the fuselage, since the inlets
will block access to the aft part of the fuselage. Sand the bottom edges to
a circular shape, and then sand the top edges down to the feathered
shape shown on the diagram at left. Note how the tops of the fuselage
sides blend into the canopy sill.

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9. Next glue the inlets to each side of the fuselage. Note that the tabs on the
fuselage bottom piece slide into corresponding slots in the inlet sides,
which automatically ensures proper alignment. But you’ll need to make
sure the inboard forward top edges of the inlets are flush with the top of
the aft fuselage (the area held together with blue tape in the bottom picture
at left). Note that the motor mount also has tabs and slots to ensure
proper alignment as well. 15 minute epoxy is highly recommended for this
step, both for strength and to give you time to get everything aligned
before the glue sets. Set the fuselage upside down on the workbench
(hooked over an edge with the inlet tops sitting flat against the bench) as
the glue cures to ensure this assembly is perfectly flat on top. This is
important because the wing spar box will span across the top and the
wings will fold up on top as well.
After the glue has cured, remove all of the temporary bulkheads inside the
inlets.

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10.Now we’ll build the wing sweep mechanism. Begin by cutting out all the
plywood parts using a similar procedure as the foam parts—just tack glue
the paper templates to the wood using 3M 77 spray and then cut the parts
out with a sharp hobby knife (that’s one of the beauties of lite-ply—it can
be cut quickly with a knife!).
When done, you should have all of the parts shown in the bottom picture at
left.
11.Glue the doublers to both ends of the spar box top and bottom pieces.
Laminate the two spacer pieces and glue them in place on top of the
doublers on one side. Then glue the balsa shear webs in place on the
same side. Medium viscosity CA is recommended for all of these joints.
Next laminate the two swing arm pieces together with CA. Be sure to
make two mirror-image parts—the piece with the control arm goes on
bottom for each side.

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12.Test fit the top and bottom spar box pieces together. Sand the balsa shear
webs as required until you get a perfect fit. Then glue the top and bottom
pieces together with CA.
Now drill the four ¼” holes for the nylon bolt wing pins—one in each end of
the spar box and one in each swing arm. Use a drill press if at all possible
to ensure the holes are perfectly perpendicular!
Test fit the swing arms and nylon bolts in place, and check to see if they
rotate smoothly. You want them to fit tightly but still rotate smoothly. Sand
the swing arms as required to thin them down until they turn smoothly.
Note that you can also adjust the tension of the swing arms by tightening
the nylon nut and bolt, so it’s OK if the swing arms end up a little loose.

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13. Cut the carbon tube wing spars to length and test fit the swing arms and
spars into the wing, trimming as required. Then glue the swing arms and
spars in place using epoxy (note that the side with the control arm goes
down on the swing arms). Place wax paper and heavy books on top of the
wings as the epoxy cures to ensure everything stays perfectly flat. After
the glue cures, put a strip of 3M Satin tape over the top and bottom of the
spar to help hide the joint and provide a smooth wing surface.
Now sand the wing to shape. Sand the leading edge to a well-rounded
shape and sand the trailing edge down to a tapered shape from the top.
This will result in a thin flat-bottom airfoil. Put a strip of Satin tape over the
leading edge to provide durability and smoothness.
14.Glue the 3/8” thick balsa spacer block in the bottom center of the wing
swing box. However, check the fit of your servo first to see if this thickness
puts the servo arm at the same height as the control arms on the wing
swing arms. You may need to use a thicker or thinner spacer depending
on your servo. 3/8” is what worked for the HS-81MG servo used in the
prototype.

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15.Make the 1/8” lite-ply servo arm, and then attach a nylon servo arm with
two screws as shown. You may need to experiment to find the exact hole
locations that result in both wings swinging identically forward to back—
and those locations will probably NOT be symmetrical. I found that the left
wing needs a little longer moment arm than the right wing to swing equally.
If one wing swings more than the other, simply increase the moment arm
on that side. The locations shown on the plans are what worked (after
much experimenting) with the HS-81MG servo used in the prototype.
Also note that if this horn seems weak to you (only .25” wide), that’s by
design! This servo arm is intended to be the weak link in the wing swing
mechanism. That way, if you catch a wing on landing, this horn will break
before anything else in the system breaks. This is good because this horn
is easy and quick to replace via the hatch in the top of the fuselage. This
design has already paid off for me—I had a crash landing in one of the
early flights and this arm broke just as intended, preventing any further
damage to the wing or swing mechanism!
16.Glue 1/8” lite-ply strengtheners to the bottom of the servo tray as shown.
Then check the fit of the servo and trim as required. When done, the
assembly should look like the picture on bottom.
I used a Hitec HS-81 MG servo on the prototype, which works OK but is
definitely strains in this application. I think it works well enough that a
larger (and thus heavier) servo isn’t required, but if you choose to do so
there is room for a larger servo. The most important thing is to use a
METAL geared servo (a nylon geared servo is very likely to strip).

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17.Glue the servo tray on the bottom of the spacer.
Make the pushrods using 1/16” threaded rods with steel clevises on each
side. I found that the Great Planes small steel clevises happened to work
best, providing a perfect fit with the 1/8” lite-ply control arms. Dubro
clevises didn’t fit nearly as well…
18.Now plug the servo into your receiver and test the wing swing mechanism,
adjusting it as required until it works perfectly. You want both wings to
swing easily and also swing the same amount. If one wing swings more
than the other, adjust the control throws on the servo control arm. If the
wings tend to bind, sand the swing arms down in thickness. Use the
buzzing of the servo to tell you where the problems are—it’ll buzz heavily if
it encounters something it doesn’t like!
For reference, there are mechanical stops on both ends of the wing swing
travel. The step in the wing trailing edges should just touch the back of the
wing swing spar box when the wings are swept fully aft. And the control
arms on the wing swing arms should hit the forward side of the spacer
inside the spar box when the wings are fully forward. Use those extremes
to gauge how much swing is required.
Note that the a key feature of this design is that it is independent from the
rest of the airframe. Thus, everything can be tested and adjusted to work
perfectly BEFORE you install it.

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19.Test fit the wing swing box onto the fuselage. The forward side of the spar
box butts up against the step in the inlet tops. Cut clearance holes as
shown for the wing pushrods on the top of each inlet side (4 total). Be
sure to make those holes wide enough to clear the pushrods throughout
the entire swing of the wings.
Next glue in the four segments of ¼” balsa triangle that fit underneath the
spar box. These should be flush with tops of the inlets.
Use this forward wing strake piece as a guide to help you glue the spar
box in with perfect alignment. First test fit the wing strake piece to ensure
it fits well and trim as required. Then draw centerlines on everything
(strake, fuselage, spar box) to help align everything. After you’re confident
everything fits well and is aligned, glue in the spar box and strake together
using epoxy.
Note that the wings are easily removable on this model, even after it’s
finished. To remove the wing, just pull out the nylon bolts at the wing pivot
and unsnap the clevis on the servo arm (using needle-nose pliers through
the access hatch on top). Then slide the wing out, being careful to pull the
pushrods carefully through the clearance holes. Reverse this procedure to
put the wing back on, being careful to guide the wing pushrods back
through the clearance holes. Note there’s no need to ever take the clevis
off the wing control arm—use the clevis at the servo instead.

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20.Next install the tailerons. Each taileron has a .157” diameter carbon spar
that pivots inside two small pieces of 3/16” diameter aluminum, which are
supported by two small squares of 1/64” ply glued to the foam inside the
inlets.
Begin by sanding the tailerons to shape. Sand the leading edges to a well-
rounded shape and the trailing edges to a tapered shape. Put a strip of
3M Satin tape on the leading edges to provide durability and smoothness.
Also put a few layers of Satin tape on the forward root of the tailerons to
increase strength.
Cut the carbon spars and aluminum tubes to length. Glue the aluminum
tubes into the plywood squares in the inlets using epoxy. Make sure to put
the carbon rods in the bearings while the epoxy cures to ensure everything
is aligned. Then glue the spars into the tailerons using epoxy.
After the glue is cured, slide the carbon rods through the aluminum
bearings and slide the end stops and control horns onto each rod (but
don’t glue them yet). I used spare servo horns for both the end stops and
taileron control horns (just snip off the arms and drill them out to slide onto
the carbon rod).
Install the servo and make a pushrod using 1/32” music wire (Z-bends are
recommended on each end). Set the length of the pushrod so that the
servo arm and taileron control arm are perfectly vertical. I simply used
tape to hold the servos in place, combined with the friction from a tight-
fitting hole in the foam.
Adjust as required until everything is aligned—the control arms are
vertical, the tailerons are level, and the end stops fit snugly against the
inlet sides. Then put a few drops of CA on the end stops and taileron
control horns to secure them in place.

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21.Glue the vertical tail support doublers to the inside of each inlet top piece,
making left and right versions. Then cut the slot for the vertical tails at a
roughly 5 degree cant angle (canted outboard). Use a heat gun to form
the small curve in the aft end for the exhaust nozzle.
Glue the inlet top pieces onto the inlets. Note that the forward edge of
these pieces butts up against the rear edge of the wing spar box.

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22.Install the speed control and battery extension wiring. Note that the
battery extension wiring should be twisted and then wrapped with
aluminum foil to reduce RF interference. In the photo here, the speed
control is installed inside the airplane. However, I later learned (the hard
way) that the speed control must be installed OUTSIDE the airplane to
provide cooling and prevent shutdown due to overheating. So cut a hole in
the bottom of the fuselage and route the wiring so that the speed control is
located on the bottom outside of the airplane (see bottom picture).
Laminate the 2 parts for the wing cover center support and glue in place
on the back of the wing spar box (shown in the top picture).
23.Sand the vertical tails to shape, giving the leading edges a round shape
and the trailing edges a tapered shape.
If you’re installing rudders, cut those out and hinge them with Satin tape.
Glue the tails in place using epoxy, canting them outboard at a 5 degree
angle.

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24.If you’re installing rudders on this model, install the control runs now. I
used Sullivan light flexible cable pushrods, with 1/32” music wire soldered
on the rudder end and Dubro micro EZ connectors on the servo end. Note
the two small pieces of scrap foam that support the cables near the servo.
Rudders are nice to have and are useful during aerobatics and very low
speed maneuvering. But they are not required for this model to fly well.
25.Install the center aft fuselage top piece using epoxy.
26. Now install all the remaining wing strake pieces, including the aft upper
wing cover (2 pieces) and the forward and aft lower strake pieces.
Note that the forward lower wing strake pieces may need to be notched
inside a little to clear the wing swing pushrods.
Install the turtledeck sides and top. Note that the turtledeck sides are
glued on at a roughly 15 degree angle (canted inboard) to give them that
characteristic F-14 shape.

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27. Sand the wing strake and turtledeck to shape as shown.
To reduce the friction of the wing swing mechanism, place a single layer of
packing tape on the insides of the wing slot (top only) and on the top and
bottom of the wing root (but only where it contacts the wing slot). Bare
foam and plywood joints may swing freely on the bench, but once the wing
gets deflected with 1g flight loads these joints need packing tape to keep
the friction down.