ARC CONVERSION KIT User manual
ARC
CONVERSION KIT
User Manual
ARC OFF ROAD
English
2
PLEASE NOTE
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated
within the range given on the tire sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your newly converted electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the ARC hub motor conversion
tool kit. It will make your installation and ongoing maintenance much
easier. We also highly recommend the purchase of a freewheel gear set
(single, 6, 7, 8 or 9 speed) with this kit. These can be purchased online.
Thank you for purchasing your new ARC conversion kit! Please read through this manual
carefully before operating the kit.
THANK YOU
3
ITEM CHECK LIST
Each conversion kit is strictly tested for quality control before shipping to a customer. Before
converting your bike, it’s a good idea to lay each of the components out to visiualise how they
will come together on your bicycle.
●Other parts included are the bonus rear rack, nuts, washers and specialized fasteners,
e-brake sensors and cable ties to help tidy up the installation when nished. You also have
the option of a twist throttle or thumb throttle (you will have to decide which one suits your
installation better).
Motor wheel
Display and thumb
controls
Battery, Cradle and Keys
RPAS
Charger
Controller
Wiring with color coded
plugs
Handlebar controls ARC Torque Arm
4
Contents
Thank you 2
SAFETY 2
Item check list 3
Installation process 5
Wheel Install 6
Wheel Install continued 7
Battery Cradle Installation 9
Battery Cradle Installation continued 10
Throttles and grips 11
Display 11
E-brake sensors 12
Controller 13
Controller continued 14
Removable Pedal Assist Sensor (RPAS) 15
RPAS Continued... 16
Battery Operation 17
Charging 18
Maintenance and Care 19
Trouble Shooting 20
Trouble Shooting Continued... 21
Trouble Shooting Continued... 22
Trouble Shooting Continued... 23
Specications 24
Before you start your conversion, you will have
to decide if you’re installing the battery on the
down tube (recommended) or on the provided
rear rack. You will also have to decide if you
are going to install a throttle (you can run the
system using just the pedal assist sensor) and
which of the two throttle options is going to
work best with your bike.
Most commonly the thumb throttle is preferred,
as it leaves more room on your handlebars for
other components. Using the thumb throttle
means you can even use your current grips
if you prefer, leaving your handlebars almost
untouched.
One of the many benets of the ARC kits is the
exibility in the installation.
Once you have decided on the ideal conversion
for your bike, it’s time to prepare the bike.
Start by checking over each component and
familiarize yourself with the terminology. A
common mistake is when people refer to the
LCD display as the ‘controller’. The LCD functions
as a readout for the conversion kit. The
controller is actually the rectangular box which
houses the major control components of the
electric system.
Once you have looked over the parts to
familiarize yourself, remove the grips from your
current bikes (if installing a throttle) and turn the
bike upside down so it rests on the seat and the
ends of the handlebars (if you don’t have a bike
stand). Take the rear wheel out and deate and
remove the tire, tube and rim tape. Install these
onto the new electric wheel.
If you’re installing disk brakes, it’s ideal to
remove the caliper which will make it easier to
install the rear wheel.
5
INSTALLATION PROCESS
Before you start your conversion, you will have
to decide if you’re installing the battery on the
down tube (recommended) or on the provided
rear rack. You will also have to decide if you
are going to install a throttle (you can run the
system using just the pedal assist sensor) and
which of the two throttle options is going to
work best with your bike.
Most commonly the thumb throttle is preferred,
as it leaves more room on your handlebars for
other components. Using the thumb throttle
means you can even use your current grips
if you prefer, leaving your handlebars almost
untouched.
One of the many benets of the ARC kits is the
exibility in the installation.
Once you have decided on the ideal conversion
for your bike, it’s time to prepare the bike.
Start by checking over each component and
familiarize yourself with the terminology. A
common mistake is when people refer to the
LCD display as the ‘controller’. The LCD functions
as a readout for the conversion kit. The
controller is actually the rectangular box which
houses the major control components of the
electric system.
Once you have looked over the parts to
familiarize yourself, remove the grips from your
current bikes (if installing a throttle) and turn the
bike upside down so it rests on the seat and the
ends of the handlebars (if you don’t have a bike
stand). Take the rear wheel out and deate and
remove the tire, tube and rim tape. Install these
onto the new electric wheel.
If you’re installing disk brakes, it’s ideal to
remove the caliper which will make it easier to
install the rear wheel.
6
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Although there are conversion toolkits available online from our partner Dillenger,
freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very dicult to take o and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. You don’t need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as
the act of pedaling tightens the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very aordable. For anyone that isn’t satised with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.
Before you get started
Just a note before you get started.
Converting a bike to electric using a universal conversion kit is a lot of fun but also a
challenge. Together with a Dillenger hub motor conversion kit, a freewheel gear set
(purchased together with your kit) this conversion kit includes everything we can imagine
you will need.
Please realize that not all the parts in the box will be used in the conversion. We’ve included
a lot of small fasteners, extra components and optional parts that are crucial for some
conversions to work, but not others. So we’ve covered our bases to make sure you will get
the basic functionality on most bikes.
The kit is very modular in the way you can complete the installation. For example, if your
bottom bracket is unsuitable and you would just prefer to use the throttle, then you can just
install the throttle!
If you don’t want to use torque arms on the rear wheel, or it you don’t want to mount the
e-brake sensors, then you don’t! The kit will function with the battery, controller, display,
motor and throttle as input.
One of the pleasures in converting a bike is that you can make it ‘your own’. The ARC
conversion kits are the most universal, customizable kits available. So don’t hold back on
trying the parts included, you might be surprised what works best!
7
Gear set install
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Although there are conversion toolkits available online from our partner Dillenger,
freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very dicult to take o and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. You don’t need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as
the act of pedaling tightens the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very aordable. For anyone that isn’t satised with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.
8
Wheel Install
For those with disk brakes, the disk brake rotor
installs onto the side of the motor hub just like a
regular hub.
You can use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply loosen
the bolts, remove the black plastic spacer and
install your disk rotor.
Tighten the bolts as shown to maximum 5Nm (40
lbs) tightening torque. If you overtightened these
bolts, you may risk stripping the hub which is
not covered by warranty. If you’re not using disk
brakes, you can leave the bolts and spacer as they
are, or remove them completely. If you remove
the plastic spacer and tighten up the bolts without
a disk in place, the motor won’t spin freely.
If you don’t have disk brakes, you can leave this
side of the hub untouched.
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will ex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to le o a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
t, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.
Wheel Install continued
9
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will ex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to le o a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
t, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.
ARC Universal Torque arm
10
With your bike upside down, your wheel should be pushed all the way down into the
dropouts to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. This is very important. If the dropouts are
not embedded rmly in the bottom of the drop out slots this could cause failure of the
forks or cause the electric hub axle to become unsecured.
Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350 in lbs). If you would like to install the torque arm
on the rear wheel, please see the page over.
Wheel Install continued
ARC Universal Torque arm
11
There are several ways you can orientate the
torque arm, depending on your bike. The
rst step in installing the torque arm is to
assemble the splined pieces over the motor
axle. If you’ve already tightened the wheel
nuts it’s just a simple case of loosening o one
of these and assembling as shown.
We chose to install on the gear set side. You
can install it on either side. If you install the
torque arm on the motor cable side, you can
slide the components over the motor plug
easily.
The next step is to position the torque levers
and the splined parts so that the two main
levers are perpendicular to each other (at a
right angle, 90 degrees).
Torque is force multiplied by perpendicular
distance. To get the most out of the
torque arm, the lever needs to be at max
distance, which is when both arms are at an
approximate right angle (90 degrees). This will
eciently transmit the torque away from your
dropouts.
The hoseclamp supplied then anchors the
arm to the fork which is the nal step. For
added safety, install a second torque arm on
the opposite side (purchased separately and
available online).
Make sure your wheel is still aligned correctly
after this step. The ‘C’ shaped washers are
used mostly on front wheel conversion kits,
where the dropouts have a recessed area that
required the use of the ‘C’ washers.
The battery installation starts with mounting
the battery cradle. This is what your battery will
attach to and lock on to.
The most common way to install the battery is
by using the drink bottle cage mounts on your
frame. Simply remove your drink bottle holder,
(or the bolts in place) and you’re ready to install
the battery cradle.
You will be able to tell where your cradle will
t best by simply holding the cradle up against
your frame. You can secure the cradle by using
your existing bolts/screws and tighten as shown.
Be careful not to over tighten your bolts/screws
as drink bottle mounts and threads are only
‘nutserts’. If installed correctly the battery and
cradle should feel very secure and not bounce
over bumps.
You will need to take the cradle apart so that
you have the metallic base separated from
the polymer section. Firstly screw the base on
as shown and position the battery terminals
exactly as shown, with the positive red terminal
on the right side if looking down at the terminals
(from above).
Re-install the polymer section of the battery
cradle using the most convenient bolt holes
available. For a more secure t, drill carefully
into the frame at a perpendicular angle so
you can mount additional fasteners that
secure through the frame and tighten with
a nut on the under side of the bicycle frame
down tube.
Re-install the 4 screws that secure the lower
part of the cradle cover. Now the battery
cradle installation is complete.
If drink bottle mounts aren’t an option, there
are plenty of battery attachment options
other than the method above, such as:
1. Install the battery on a rear rack
(provided).
2. Drill through holes in your frame and
use high tensile steel bolts and lock nuts to
attach the cradle. If done correctly, this is a
very solid option and you will only need to
spend $2 on fasteners.
The cradle should always be secure and rigid
to avoid any vibrations or movement of the
battery.
12
Battery Installation
Re-install the polymer section of the battery
cradle using the most convenient bolt holes
available. For a more secure t, drill carefully
into the frame at a perpendicular angle so
you can mount additional fasteners that
secure through the frame and tighten with
a nut on the under side of the bicycle frame
down tube.
Re-install the 4 screws that secure the lower
part of the cradle cover. Now the battery
cradle installation is complete.
If drink bottle mounts aren’t an option, there
are plenty of battery attachment options
other than the method above, such as:
1. Install the battery on a rear rack
(provided).
2. Drill through holes in your frame and
use high tensile steel bolts and lock nuts to
attach the cradle. If done correctly, this is a
very solid option and you will only need to
spend $2 on fasteners.
The cradle should always be secure and rigid
to avoid any vibrations or movement of the
battery.
13
Battery Installation continued
14
Throttles and grips
Display
With the motor and battery mounted,
it’s time to move on to the easy part.
We recommend installing the thumb
throttle. We recommend installing it
on the right side. If this is suitable, it
will mean you only have to remove
the right side handlebar grip and you
can re-install the same grip if you
prefer your current grips.
Replacement grips are provided
which allow for the thickness of the
throttle if you prefer to install these. A
full length grip is included for the left
side of the handlebars to match the
right side. This decision comes down
to your preference.
The display attaches to your handlebars
using a dual clamp bracket.
This will arrive in two pieces and will be
screwed together using the provided
fasteners. Not all handlebars are the same
diameter, so there’s a couple dierent sized
rubber bushes provided.
Once you have the bracket connected to
the display screen, you can mount it to your
handlebars using the provided bolts and
captive nuts.
The angle of the display can depend on the
rider style or the shape of the handle bars.
Be careful not to over tighten these
fasteners as they are secured by plastic.
Once you have the display mounted you
can t the satellite keypad (thumb controls).
This is a small module with three buttons
to control the display. Up/Down and MODE
(on/o). You can download the manual for
this separately.
This kit comes standard with e-brake sensors
which are a nifty little invention that enables
you to use your existing brake levers. This
solves a common issue from previous systems
that required the replacement of the brake
handles which is more time consuming and
also problematic if you have hydraulic brakes or
integrated shifters.
In this series of photos which show the
installation, we have installed the magnetic
square and the sensor on the top surface of
the shifter. For a sleek conversion, these would
normally be installed underneath so they are
hidden.
The magnetic square and the sensor should be
installed so that when the shifter is released,
they contact each other. When you pull on the
shifter when braking, the sensor will register the
proximity change and activate the e-brake cut
o.
Add cable ties to the sensor for added rigidity.
If you prefer not to add the e-brake sensors, the system will still function
without them. For throttle only installations, e-brake cut o is not necessary. For
installations with pedal assist, it is highly recommended (and mandatory in some
states).
15
E-brake sensors
This kit comes standard with e-brake sensors
which are a nifty little invention that enables
you to use your existing brake levers. This
solves a common issue from previous systems
that required the replacement of the brake
handles which is more time consuming and
also problematic if you have hydraulic brakes or
integrated shifters.
In this series of photos which show the
installation, we have installed the magnetic
square and the sensor on the top surface of
the shifter. For a sleek conversion, these would
normally be installed underneath so they are
hidden.
The magnetic square and the sensor should be
installed so that when the shifter is released,
they contact each other. When you pull on the
shifter when braking, the sensor will register the
proximity change and activate the e-brake cut
o.
Add cable ties to the sensor for added rigidity.
If you prefer not to add the e-brake sensors, the system will still function
without them. For throttle only installations, e-brake cut o is not necessary. For
installations with pedal assist, it is highly recommended (and mandatory in some
states).
16
Controller
The controller is the ‘brain’ and the
‘muscle’ of the kit. The controller has 4
connections:
1. Power from the battery. This cable
is on the front side of the controller
in the picture to the right. It has two
large prong terminals for ground and
positive. This plug cannot be installed
incorrectly by design. There is also a
set of arrows to show you the correct
alignment.
2. Signals from the 4 to 1 cable. The ‘4
to 1’ cable transmits the signal from
the throttle, e-brake sensors and
LCD controls from the handlebars to
the controller. The plugs are all color
coded on the handlebars to avoid
confusion. The 4 to 1 cable plug on
the controller is shown on the front of
the controller in this image.
3. Signal from the pedal assist sensor.
This is separate because the controller
is normally very close to the crank
where the pedal assist sensor is
located.
4. Power output and hall sensor input
from the motor. The motor cable plug
has 3 heavy duty phase wire terminals
and 5 lighter gauge hall sensor inputs.
The controller takes input from
the hall sensor wires which tell the
controller where the motor is in its
rotation. The controller then switches
the power from the battery many
times each second to the motor via
the 3 phase terminals. The controller
in the ARC kits are sign-wave signal
controllers which means the phases
are softly ramped up and down,
making the motor super silent and
highly ecient!
The installation of the controller on the frame is straight forward. You would ideally install
the controller on the seat tube. If your seat tube is a standard diameter, you can use
the steel saddles to fasten to the frame. If these don’t t there are slots in the controller
housing to allow you to fasten using cable ties.
Once the controller is installed, you can begin connect the wiring.
17
Controller continued
The installation of the controller on the frame is straight forward. You would ideally install
the controller on the seat tube. If your seat tube is a standard diameter, you can use
the steel saddles to fasten to the frame. If these don’t t there are slots in the controller
housing to allow you to fasten using cable ties.
Once the controller is installed, you can begin connect the wiring.
18
Removable Pedal Assist Sensor (RPAS)
The purpose of the pedal assist sensor is to generate a signal from the rotation of
the crank that the controller processes to know that you’re pedaling and want some
power!
How does this work? Magnets on the disk generate a changing magnetic eld or a
‘hall eect’ and this is picked up by the hall eect sensor which transmits a signal
to the controller. The pedal assist is the primary function of an electric bike and the
level of assistance is adjustable on the handlebar LCD.
1. The sensor will need to line up very closely (under 5mm) to the RPAS disk.
2. Be sure to have the “working side” text facing the sensor. The RPAS is directional,
so when you pedal backwards, the motor won’t engage (that would be dangerous
and annoying!)
3. With the two halves of the disk mated together you can mount the silver circlip
onto the disk, without jamming your ngers in the process (ideal, but not always
possible).
4. When tting the hall eect cadence sensor, the adhesive section is only there to
hold it in place while you secure the sensor with cable ties provided.
Normally this step would involve the
removal of the crank which can be quite
complicated. Thanks to the innovative
RPAS, this step is now a breeze!
To begin, have a look at the black
plastic magnet wheel and the way the
two halves join together. When you
snap them together on the crank axle,
(on your bike) you will then need to
t the steel circlip around the outside
groove.
19
RPAS Continued...
Depending on the style of crank axle
you have, you may need to modify
the black plastic wheel and remove
some of the internal ‘vanes’ of
plastic.
You may be required to carefully
remove a portion of the vanes if
required. This would be done with a
sharp pair of scissors or side-cutters.
The level of assistance you receive is
controlled by your handle bar display
buttons, which we already tted with
the display, (up and down buttons).
20
Battery Operation
The battery used in this conversion kit is very sleek in design and also very functional.
The way it attaches to its cradle, is by sliding the battery down onto the cradle and locking it
into place. Once in place it makes for a very secure tting that won’t rattle around during use
(a common problem with other systems).
With the battery mounted to the cradle, you can now use the key to lock the battery in place.
The key is only used for the locking function, it doesn’t turn the battery on or o, in fact
when riding it’s best you remove the key and store it safely to avoid hitting it with you knee
(or worse, loosing it). Take one of the keys o the key chain before you’re nished and store
it in a safe place. The keys are coded so if you loose both you will have to ship your battery
back to ARC to have the barrel replaced.
The battery should never be ridden without being locked into the cradle. It should also never
be dropped or treated roughly.
If you’re battery is returned to us and has signs of being dropped, this will void the warranty.
Charging the battery:
1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/outlet,
just like a laptop of mobile phone charger.
2. Check that the charger indicator lights
glows green
3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into the
battery carefully, making sure it is all the way
in. Do not force it if there is an obstruction.
4. The charger indicator light should glow red
whilst charging.
5. Once the charger indicator lights change to
green, the battery is fully charged.
There is no way to over-charge the battery.
When it is full, the charger will stop charging
the battery automatically.
Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if
fully empty.
The battery should be charged once every
month as a minimum to maintain healthy
cells.
The best way to charge your battery is to plug
it in after every use, and leave it on charge
until the indicator light shows the battery is
fully charged. It is not good practice to only
half or partially charge the battery.
Best practice battery use is to charge the
battery to 100% fully charged after each
use. Fully charge the battery before use if
it hasn’t been used in more than 1 week.
Table of contents
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