ARC CONVERSION KIT User manual

ARC
CONVERSION KIT
User Manual
ARC OFF ROAD
English

2
PLEASE NOTE
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated
within the range given on the tire sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your newly converted electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the ARC hub motor conversion
tool kit. It will make your installation and ongoing maintenance much
easier. We also highly recommend the purchase of a freewheel gear set
(single, 6, 7, 8 or 9 speed) with this kit. These can be purchased online.
Thank you for purchasing your new ARC conversion kit! Please read through this manual
carefully before operating the kit.
THANK YOU

3
ITEM CHECK LIST
Each conversion kit is strictly tested for quality control before shipping to a customer. Before
converting your bike, it’s a good idea to lay each of the components out to visiualise how they
will come together on your bicycle.
●Other parts included are the bonus rear rack, nuts, washers and specialized fasteners,
e-brake sensors and cable ties to help tidy up the installation when nished. You also have
the option of a twist throttle or thumb throttle (you will have to decide which one suits your
installation better).
Motor wheel
Display and thumb
controls
Battery, Cradle and Keys
RPAS
Charger
Controller
Wiring with color coded
plugs
Handlebar controls ARC Torque Arm

4
Contents
Thank you 2
SAFETY 2
Item check list 3
Installation process 5
Wheel Install 6
Wheel Install continued 7
Battery Cradle Installation 9
Battery Cradle Installation continued 10
Throttles and grips 11
Display 11
E-brake sensors 12
Controller 13
Controller continued 14
Removable Pedal Assist Sensor (RPAS) 15
RPAS Continued... 16
Battery Operation 17
Charging 18
Maintenance and Care 19
Trouble Shooting 20
Trouble Shooting Continued... 21
Trouble Shooting Continued... 22
Trouble Shooting Continued... 23
Specications 24
Before you start your conversion, you will have
to decide if you’re installing the battery on the
down tube (recommended) or on the provided
rear rack. You will also have to decide if you
are going to install a throttle (you can run the
system using just the pedal assist sensor) and
which of the two throttle options is going to
work best with your bike.
Most commonly the thumb throttle is preferred,
as it leaves more room on your handlebars for
other components. Using the thumb throttle
means you can even use your current grips
if you prefer, leaving your handlebars almost
untouched.
One of the many benets of the ARC kits is the
exibility in the installation.
Once you have decided on the ideal conversion
for your bike, it’s time to prepare the bike.
Start by checking over each component and
familiarize yourself with the terminology. A
common mistake is when people refer to the
LCD display as the ‘controller’. The LCD functions
as a readout for the conversion kit. The
controller is actually the rectangular box which
houses the major control components of the
electric system.
Once you have looked over the parts to
familiarize yourself, remove the grips from your
current bikes (if installing a throttle) and turn the
bike upside down so it rests on the seat and the
ends of the handlebars (if you don’t have a bike
stand). Take the rear wheel out and deate and
remove the tire, tube and rim tape. Install these
onto the new electric wheel.
If you’re installing disk brakes, it’s ideal to
remove the caliper which will make it easier to
install the rear wheel.

5
INSTALLATION PROCESS
Before you start your conversion, you will have
to decide if you’re installing the battery on the
down tube (recommended) or on the provided
rear rack. You will also have to decide if you
are going to install a throttle (you can run the
system using just the pedal assist sensor) and
which of the two throttle options is going to
work best with your bike.
Most commonly the thumb throttle is preferred,
as it leaves more room on your handlebars for
other components. Using the thumb throttle
means you can even use your current grips
if you prefer, leaving your handlebars almost
untouched.
One of the many benets of the ARC kits is the
exibility in the installation.
Once you have decided on the ideal conversion
for your bike, it’s time to prepare the bike.
Start by checking over each component and
familiarize yourself with the terminology. A
common mistake is when people refer to the
LCD display as the ‘controller’. The LCD functions
as a readout for the conversion kit. The
controller is actually the rectangular box which
houses the major control components of the
electric system.
Once you have looked over the parts to
familiarize yourself, remove the grips from your
current bikes (if installing a throttle) and turn the
bike upside down so it rests on the seat and the
ends of the handlebars (if you don’t have a bike
stand). Take the rear wheel out and deate and
remove the tire, tube and rim tape. Install these
onto the new electric wheel.
If you’re installing disk brakes, it’s ideal to
remove the caliper which will make it easier to
install the rear wheel.

6
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Although there are conversion toolkits available online from our partner Dillenger,
freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very dicult to take o and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. You don’t need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as
the act of pedaling tightens the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very aordable. For anyone that isn’t satised with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.
Before you get started
Just a note before you get started.
Converting a bike to electric using a universal conversion kit is a lot of fun but also a
challenge. Together with a Dillenger hub motor conversion kit, a freewheel gear set
(purchased together with your kit) this conversion kit includes everything we can imagine
you will need.
Please realize that not all the parts in the box will be used in the conversion. We’ve included
a lot of small fasteners, extra components and optional parts that are crucial for some
conversions to work, but not others. So we’ve covered our bases to make sure you will get
the basic functionality on most bikes.
The kit is very modular in the way you can complete the installation. For example, if your
bottom bracket is unsuitable and you would just prefer to use the throttle, then you can just
install the throttle!
If you don’t want to use torque arms on the rear wheel, or it you don’t want to mount the
e-brake sensors, then you don’t! The kit will function with the battery, controller, display,
motor and throttle as input.
One of the pleasures in converting a bike is that you can make it ‘your own’. The ARC
conversion kits are the most universal, customizable kits available. So don’t hold back on
trying the parts included, you might be surprised what works best!

7
Gear set install
The rear wheel hub motor uses a traditional freewheel type sprocket/gear set. This is very
common and you bike will generally either have this type, or a splined cassette type. Whilst it
is possible to remove your bikes existing freewheel, we strongly urge customers to purchase
a new free wheel from us or anywhere else that stocks freewheel gear sets.
Although there are conversion toolkits available online from our partner Dillenger,
freewheels are considered to be a ‘one time’ only installation. Once they are fastened, they
can be very dicult to take o and transfer to another bike. It’s a relatively inexpensive
part and will save you time and money in the long run, to purchase a new one with your
conversion kit. You don’t need any special tools to screw on and tighten the freewheel, as
the act of pedaling tightens the freewheel by design.
First step is to locate the spacer that is used to space the freewheel away from the hub. This
isn’t essential for 1, 6 or 7 speed gear sets, but it’s recommended. Once you’ve located the
small silver spacer (shown below) you can screw on (clockwise) the freewheel gently, taking
care not to cross thread the hub or gear set.
Just a note on gear sets. We stock 1, 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed freewheels. There is not enough
width in the rear forks for a 10 speed or more. For customers that are using a 10 speed or
more, you can get away with using the same shifters and adjust your dérailleur so that you
get the correct amount of travel from chain ring 1 to 9. Another option is to purchase a 9
speed shifter which is very aordable. For anyone that isn’t satised with a comprise on gear
sets to make space for a 1,000W hub motor (which is completely changing the entire bike),
then this kit is not for you.

8
Wheel Install
For those with disk brakes, the disk brake rotor
installs onto the side of the motor hub just like a
regular hub.
You can use the existing bolts that are already
installed into the side of the hub. Simply loosen
the bolts, remove the black plastic spacer and
install your disk rotor.
Tighten the bolts as shown to maximum 5Nm (40
lbs) tightening torque. If you overtightened these
bolts, you may risk stripping the hub which is
not covered by warranty. If you’re not using disk
brakes, you can leave the bolts and spacer as they
are, or remove them completely. If you remove
the plastic spacer and tighten up the bolts without
a disk in place, the motor won’t spin freely.
If you don’t have disk brakes, you can leave this
side of the hub untouched.
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will ex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to le o a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
t, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.

Wheel Install continued
9
Once you have installed the disk brake, loosen the axle nuts on the electric wheel. This
will allow the axle to slot into your dropouts. We are showing the most common way that
the fasteners can be arranged, but it is possible you will discover a more suitable way to
arrange them, depending on your bike and gear set layout. If you need to space the rear
forks out further, you can use the washers and spacers provided. If the you need more
room on the gear set side, space the hub over with the washers provided, or if you need
to space the hub evenly over to the disk brake side, you can rearrange the fasteners to
achieve this.
The distance between your dropouts should be around approx. 135mm. Your rear forks/
chain stays will ex in and out a certain amount without causing any structural issues.
The dropout axle slots should be approx. 10mm however you may need to le o a thin
layer of paint for the axle to slot in all the way. The axles are designed to be a very tight
t, so don’t stress if you need to remove a small amount of material, this is normal.
So long as the hub is orientated so that the freewheel thread side is on the chainwheel
side of the bike, it will rotate in the correct direction.

ARC Universal Torque arm
10
With your bike upside down, your wheel should be pushed all the way down into the
dropouts to make sure it’s a nice and tight t. This is very important. If the dropouts are
not embedded rmly in the bottom of the drop out slots this could cause failure of the
forks or cause the electric hub axle to become unsecured.
Tighten to approx. 30-40Nm (250 - 350 in lbs). If you would like to install the torque arm
on the rear wheel, please see the page over.
Wheel Install continued