BALLARD Columbia User manual

Quality Since 1877
Columbia Bicycles | OWNER’S MANUAL

1
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all
aspects of maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object.
Ballard Pacific Resources Inc. recommends that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or
concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle. You will
save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or call us
concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.
Bottom View
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
serial number
WRITE YOUR SERIAL NUMBER HERE
IMPORTANT NOTICE
Keep your serial number handy in case of damage, loss or theft.
410 Adele Joplin, Mo 64801
Call Toll Free 1.866.424.0500
Local 417-206-0563
Fax: [phone]
Monday-Friday 8:00AM to 5:00PM (CST)
For product related questions email us at: [email protected]
For customer service questions email us at: [email protected]
If you have a problem, do not return to the store,
call 1-866-424-0500. Adult Supervision Required
when in use. For parts or repair service, call
Ballard Pacific Resources Inc. at 1-866-424-0500.
This manual contains important safety, performance
and maintenance information. Please read this manual
before taking your first ride on your new bicycle,
and keep this manual handy for future reference.
CONTENTS
SAFETY
Safety Equipment 2
Mechanical Safety Check 3
Riding Safety 5
IMPORTANT NOTE TO PARENTS 5
Rules of the Road 7
Rules of the Trail 8
Wet Weather Riding 9
Night Riding 10
Bicycling in Traffic 12
ASSEMBLY, MAINTENANCE
AND ADJUSTMENT
Tools 14
Owners Responsibility 15
Reflectors 16
Seat Installation 18
Pedals 21
Handlebar and Stem 22
Front Wheel 27
Fenders 29
Brakes 31
Derailleurs 39
Gears and Shifting 41
Headlight 44
Pegs and Training Wheels 45
Tire Valves 47
Repair and Service 48
Tires 51
NEW OWNER
Warranty 56
Purchase Record 57
BALLARD PACIFIC
BALLARD PACIFIC
Columbia Bicycles | OWNER’S MANUAL
Quality Since 1877
www.columbia-bikes.com

2 3
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
WARNING: Many states require specific safety devices.
It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the
laws of the state where you ride and to comply with all
applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself
and your bike as the law requires.
1. HELMET
While not all states require bicyclists to wear approved
protective headgear, common sense dictates that you
should wear an ANSI or Snell approved helmet whether
the law requires it or not. Most serious bicycle injuries
involve head injuries which might have been avoided if
the rider had worn a helmet. Your dealer has a variety
of attractive helmets, and can recommend one to suit your
needs. Your helmet must fit correctly, be worn correctly
and be properly secured to do its real job. Ask your dealer
to help you with the fit and adjustment of your helmet.
WARNING: Always wear a helmet when riding your bike.
Always keep the chin strap securely buckled. Failure to
wear an approved helmet may result in serious injury or
death.
2. REFLECTORS
Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed
as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regulations
require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear,
wheel and pedal reflectors. The size, performance and
location of each reflector is specified by the U.S. Consumer
Products Safety Commission. The reflectors are designed
to pick up and reflect car lights in a way that helps you to
be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brack-
ets regularly to make sure that they are clean, straight,
unbroken and securely mounted. Have your dealer
replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten
any that are bent or loose.
WARNING: Do not remove the reflectors or reflector
mounting brackets from your bicycle. They are an inte-
gral part of the bicycle’s safety system. Removing the
reflectors may reduce your visibility to others using the
roadway. Being struck by other vehicles often results in
serious injury or death.
Remember: reflectors are not a substitute for lights.
Always equip your bicycle with all state and locally
mandated lights.
3. LIGHTS
We strongly recommend that children not ride after dusk
or before daylight. If you must ride your bike after dusk
or before full daylight, your bicycle must be equipped
with lights so that you can see the road and avoid road
hazards; and so that others can see you. Vehicle laws
treat bicycles like any other vehicle. That means you must
have a white front and a red rear light operating if you are
riding after dusk or before full daylight. Your bike dealer
can recommend a battery or generator powered lighting
system appropriate to your needs.
WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for proper
lights. It is your responsibility to equip your bicycle with
all state and locally mandated lights. Riding at dawn,
at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility
without a bicycle lighting system which meets local and
state laws and without reflectors is dangerous and may
result in serious injury or death.
4. PEDALS
Some higher performance model bicycles come equipped
with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous
surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by
increasing adhesion between the rider’s shoe and the
bicycle pedal.
If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal
you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the
pedals’ sharp surfaces.
Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a
less aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a
number of options and make suitable recommendations.
MECHANICAL SAFETY CHECK
Here is a simple, sixty-second mechanical safety
check which you should get in the habit of making
every time you’re about to get on a bike.
1. NUTS & BOLTS
Lift the front wheel off the ground by two or three
inches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything
sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick visual and tactile
inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or
accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask
someone with experience to check.
2. TIRES & WHEELS
Tires correctly inflated? Check by putting one hand on
the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars
and stem, then bouncing your weight on the bike while
looking at tire deflection. Compare what you see with
how it looks when you know the tires are correctly
Inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look
for cuts in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged
tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles
side to side or hits the brake pads, take the bike to a
qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
BICYCLE
SAFETY
BICYCLE
SAFETY
WRONG WAYRIGHT WAY

4 5
BICYCLE
SAFETY
BICYCLE
SAFETY
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for hand brakes to
work effectively. Wheel truing is a skill which requires
special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true
a wheel unless you have the knowledge and tools
needed to do the job correctly.
3. BRAKES
If your bicycle has hand-operated brakes, squeeze the
brake levers. Are the brake shoes contacting the wheel rim
within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply
full braking force at the levers without having them touch
the handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do
not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted. If
your bicycle has a coaster brake, check to make sure that
the coaster brake arm is securely clamped to the bicycle
frame. If the arm or its mounting bracket are loose, do not
ride the bike until the brake arm is properly secured. See
page 32.
WARNING: Riding with improperly adjusted and se-
cured brakes or worn brake shoes is dangerous and can
result in serious injury or death.
4. WHEEL NUTS
Are the front and rear wheels straight and secure in the
dropouts? Are the wheel nuts properly tightened?
WARNING: Riding with an improperly installed or
insufficiently tightened wheel can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage from the bicycle, which can cause
damage to the bicycle and serious injury or death.
5. HANDLEBAR AND SADDLE ALIGNMENT
Are the saddle and handlebar stem correctly parallel
to the bike’s top tube and tight enough so that you
can’t twist them out of alignment?
6. HANDLEBAR ENDS
Are the handlebar grips secure and in good condition?
If not, replace them. Are the handlebar ends plugged?
If not, plug them before you ride.
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips can
cause you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handle-
bars can act like a cookie cutter on your body, and
cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
RIDING SAFELY
AND RESPONSIBLY
NOTE: Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury
and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle, you assume
the responsibility for that risk. Not the people who sold
you the bike. Not the people who made it. Not the
people who distribute it. Not the people who manage or
maintain the roads or trails you ride on. You. So you
need to know - and to practice - the rules of safe and
responsible riding.
AN IMPORTANT NOTE TO PARENTS
In addition to The Basics (page 7), the Rules of the
Road (page 7), the Rules of the Trail (page 9), Wet
Weather Riding (page 9), Night Riding (page 10)
and Bicycling in Traffic (page 12) kids need to be
taught...and to have frequently reinforced...the following
rules and lessons which adults are already
expected to know. We urge you to take the time to
familiarize yourself with these rules and to teach them
to your child before you let your child ride
unsupervised.
1. RULES
• No playing in the road or in the street
• No riding on busy streets.
• No riding at night.
• Stop for all STOP signs.
• Ride on the right of traffic.
2. LESSONS
The lessons that follow relate to some of the most
common real situations that children encounter when
riding their bikes. Go over these situations with your
child and make sure the lesson objective is
accomplished.
Driveway Rideout: When a youngster rides out
of the driveway and is struck by a car, that is called a
rideout accident.
What can you do?
First, realize the danger of your own driveway. If
there are obstructions to the view of passing
motorists (like bushes or trees), trim them back.
You might park your car in front of the driveway, if
local ordinance permits. This way, your child can’t
use the driveway as a launching pad.
But the most important thing you can do is teach
your child about driveway safety. Take your child
outside to the driveway and have him/her practice
the following steps:
• Stop before entering the street.
• Look left, right and left again for traffic.
• If there’s no traffic, proceed into the roadway. Running
the Stop Sign: Car/bike crashes can happen when a
cyclist runs a stop sign. Most cyclists who get hit riding
through stop signs know that they were supposed to
stop. They just thought it would be OK this time; or they
may have been distracted. The thing to impress upon
your child is that while he/she may not get hit every time,
running stop signs will eventually result in an accident.

6 7
What can you do?
Take your child to a stop sign near home. Explain what it
means by emphasizing the following points:
1). Stop at all stop signs, regardless of what is happening.
2). Look in all directions for traffic.
3). Watch for oncoming cars making left turns.
4). Watch for cars behind you making right turns.
5). Wait for any cross traffic to clear.
6). Proceed when safe.
In order to make this lesson stick, you may have to change
your own driving habits. If you creep through intersections
controlled by stop signs, you are showing your child that
you don’t really believe what you preach. For your child’s
sake, stop at stop signs.
Turning Without Warning:
Another major accident type involves cyclists who make
unexpected left turns. They neither look behind for traffic,
nor do they signal. The key factor here is neglecting to
look to the rear: If the cyclist had looked, he/she would
have seen the danger coming up from behind.
What can you do?
Of course, you ought to teach your child not to ride
across busy streets - at least until the child has had some
advanced training and is old enough to understand traffic.
But in the meantime, for residential street riding, you can
teach your child to always look and signal before turning
left. A big part of this lesson is teaching the child how to
look to the rear without swerving.
Take your child to a playground to practice riding along
a straight line while looking behind. Stand alongside and
hold up a different number of fingers on your hand after
the child rides by. Call his/her name. After 15 minutes of
practice, a ten year old should be able to look behind his/
herself and identify how many fingers you are holding up -
without swerving.
Night Time Riding (See also page 10).
Most car/bicycle accidents happen at night where an over-
taking car hits a bike. (An overtaking car is one that comes
up from behind and passes the cyclist on the left.) These
overtaking accidents can be very serious.
What can you do?
First, you should keep your youngster from riding at night.
It requires special skills and equipment. Few children have
either. Secondly, make sure your child understands that
if he/she gets caught out after dark on a bike, the thing
to do is to call you for a ride home. One suggestions is to
tape “phone money” to the bike so that, in an emergency,
the child will be able to call home.
Following the Leader: There is increased risk of car/bike
collision if children are following each other, because if the
first one does something dangerous, those following may
do it too.
What can you do?
Teach your child to always assess the traffic situation for
him/herself. When a group is riding around, each cyclist
should stop for stop signs; each cyclist should look to the
rear before making left turns; and so on. One way to get
the message across is to play a game with the child similar
to ‘Simon Says’. In this game, however, the emphasis
should not be on doing what ‘Simon Says’, but rather have
the child make a decision based on the situation. The child
should learn to ignore what ‘Simon Says’. Children need to
learn to think for themselves to ride safely.
SUMMARY: Teach your child early - the earlier the
better. Learning skills such as looking and avoiding
hazards takes time. Be prepared to repeat lessons
until your child understands what you’re trying to
get across. Be patient. Your efforts will be rewarded,
knowing that your child is aware of safe riding skills.
B. THE BASICS
1. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check Before you get
on a bike.
2. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle.
3. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away
from the sharp teeth of chainrings; the moving chain; the
turning pedals and cranks; and the spinning wheels of
your bicycle.
4. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest
Snell or ANSI standard.
5. Always wear shoes that will stay on your feet and will
grip the pedals. Never ride barefoot or wearing sandals.
6. Wear bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it
can catch on moving parts of the bicycle or be snagged
by objects at the side of the road or trail.
7. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly
a BMX bike, can be fun; but it puts incredible stress on
everything from your spokes to your pedals.
C. RULES OF THE ROAD
1. Learn the local bicycle laws and regulations. Many
communities have special regulations about licensing of
bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path
and trail use, and so on. Many states have helmet laws,
child carrier laws and special bicycle traffic laws. In the
U.S. and in most foreign countries, a bicyclist is required
to obey the same traffic laws as the driver of a car or
motorcycle. It’s your responsibility to know and obey the
laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others -
motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their
rights, and be tolerant if they infringe on yours.
3. Ride defensively. Assume that the people with whom
you are sharing the road are so absorbed with what
they are doing and where they are going that they are
oblivious to you.
4. Look ahead of where you’re going, and be ready to
avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning in front of you, entering
the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up
behind.
• Parked car doors opening in front of you.
• Pedestrians stepping out in front of you.
• Children playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion
joints, road or sidewalk construction, debris and other
obstructions that could cause you to swerve into
traffic, catch your wheel or otherwise cause you to
lose control and have an accident.
BICYCLE
SAFETY
BICYCLE
SAFETY

8 9
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths
or on the right side of the road, in the same direction
as car traffic and as close to the edge of the road as
possible.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look
both ways at street intersections. Remember that a
bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so
be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use hand signals for turning and stopping. Learn the
local vehicle code for the correct signals.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds
and emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from
concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their
wires can tangle in the moving parts of the bicycle,
causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision
or your complete control of the bicycle, or which could
become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you
injury and damage your bike.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that
may surprise people with whom you are sharing the
road.
14. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of
alcohol or drugs.
15. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility
is obscured, at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely
tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of
accident.
RULES OF THE TRAIL
1. We recommend that children not ride off-road without
the accompaniment of an adult. In any event, never ride
alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others,
make sure that someone knows where you’re going and
when you expect to be back. Always take along some
kind of identification, so that people know who you
are in case of an accident; and take a couple of dollars
in cash for a candy bar, a cool drink or an emergency
phone call.
2. Surface hazards make off-road riding much more difficult
and therefore more dangerous than riding on paved
roads. Start slowly and build up your skills on easier
terrain before tackling more difficult terrain.
3. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and
how you can ride off-road, and respect private property.
Don’t ride where you are not welcome or where you are
not allowed.
4. You are sharing the trail with others - hikers, equestrians,
other cyclists. Respect their rights, and be tolerant if
they inconvenience you.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a
way that does not frighten or endanger them, and stay
far enough away so that their unexpected moves don’t
endanger you.
6. You may be riding in sensitive habitat, so stay on the
designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in
mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb wildlife
or livestock; and don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting
your own trail through vegetation or streams.
7. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the
environment. Ride accordingly. Leave things as you found
them; and always take out everything you brought in.
8. If you crash: First, check yourself for injuries, and take
care of them as best you can. Next, check your bike
for damage, and fix what you can. Then, when you get
home, carefully perform the maintenance proceedure
described this manual and check for any other damaged
parts. All bent, scored or discolored parts are suspect
and should be replaced.
WARNING: A crash can put extraordinary stress on
bicycle components, causing them to fatigue pre-
maturely. Components suffering from stress fatigue
can fail suddenly and catastrophically, causing loss of
control, serious injury or death.
CAUTION: If you have any doubt about the condition
of the bicycle or any of its parts, take it to an authorized
repair center.
WET WEATHER RIDING
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and
visibility, both for the bicyclist and for other vehicles
sharing the road. The risk of accident is dramatically
increased in wet conditions. Under wet conditions, the
stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of
other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced
and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it
harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To
make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in
wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes
earlier and more gradually than you would under nor-
mal, dry conditions.
BICYCLE
SAFETY
BICYCLE
SAFETY

10 11
BICYCLE
SAFETY
NOTES
NIGHT RIDING
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than riding
during the day. Therefore, children should never ride at dawn, at dusk
or in the dark. Adults should not ride at dawn, at dusk or at night
unless it is absolutely necessary.
WARNING: Riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of
poor visibility without a bicycle lighting system which meets local
and State laws and without reflectors is dangerous and can result in
serous injury or death.
Even if you have excellent night vision, many of the people with whom
you’re sharing the road don’t. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists
and pedestrians to see at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of
poor visibility. If you must ride under these conditions, check and be
sure you comply with all local laws about night riding: follow the Rules
of the Road and of the Trail even more carefully; and make sure to take
the following additional precautions:
Before riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other
times of poor visibility, take the following steps to make yourself
more visible:
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and
securely mounted reflectors.
• Purchase and install an adequate battery or generator powered head
and tail light.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a
reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on
your helmet, flashing lights...any reflective device or light source
that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists,
pedestrians and other traffic.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be
carrying on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light.

12 13
BICYCLE
SAFETY
Bicycle
safety
BICYCLING IN TRAFFIC
BICYCLING IN TRAFFIC
ONLY
LEFT RIGHT
Use hand signals -
Hand signals, using
your left arm, tell
motorists what you
intend to do. Signal
as a matter of law,
courtesy and safety.
Ride in a straight line
- Whenever possible,
ride in a straight line,
to the right of traffic.
Watch for car doors;
ride a bike width away
from parked cars.
Don’t weave between
parked cars - Don’t
ride out to the curb
between parked cars
unless they are far
apart. Motorists may
not see you when you
try to move back into
traffic.
Ride in middle of lane
in slow traffic - Get in
the middle of the lane
at busy intersections
and whenever you are
moving at the same
speed as traffic.
Follow lane markings
- Don’t turn left from
right lane. Don’t go
straight in a lane
marked “Right Turn
Only.”
Watch for cars pulling
out - Make eye contact
with driver. Assume they
don’t see you until you
are sure they do.
Scan the road behind -
Learn to look back over
your shoulder without
losing your balance or
swerving left. Some
riders use rear view
mirrors.
Avoid road hazards -
Watch out for parallel
slat sewer grates,
slippery manhole cover,
oily pavement, gravel
and ice. Cross railroad
tracks carefully at right
angles. To get better
control as you move
across bumps and other
hazards, stand up on
your pedals.
Keep both hands ready
to brake - You may not
stop in time if you brake
one-handed. Allow extra
distance for stopping in
the rain, since brakes are
less efficient when wet.
Watch for chasing dogs
- Ignore them or try a
firm “No!” If the dog
doesn’t stop, dismount
with your bike between
you and the dog. Dogs
are attracted to spinning
wheels and feet.
Watch for cars pulling
out. Obey traffic signs
and signals -Bicycles
must drive like the other
vehicles if they are to be
taken seriously by the
motorists.
Never ride against
traffic - Motorists aren’t
looking for bicyclists on
the wrong side of the
road.
Choose best way to turn
left - There are two ways
to make a left turn.
#1 Like an auto - Signal,
move into the left lane
and turn left.
#2 Like a pedestrian -
Ride straight to the far
side crosswalk. Walk
your bike across.
Don’t pass on the right
- Motorists may not
look for or see a bicycle
passing on the right.
Go slow on sidewalks
- Pedestrians have
the right of way. By
law, you must give
pedestrians audible
warning when you pass.
Don’t cross driveways
or intersections without
slowing to a walkers’
pace and looking very
carefully for traffic
(especially traffic turning
right on a green light).
While riding at dawn, at dusk, at night or at
other times of poor visibility:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid areas of heavy traffic, dark areas, and roads with
speed limits over 35 mph.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on routes already familiar to you.

14 15
TOOLS
REQUIRED
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
TOOLS/TECHNICAL SUPPORT
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have
purchased the bicycle already fully re-assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled
form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. Please check that
all parts referred to in the instructions and shown in the diagram have been included, and that all tools needed are at
your disposal. For more details on inspections, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the
relevant sections in this manual. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to assembly of your bicycle,
call COLUMBIA BICYCLES direct at:
COLUMBIA BICYCLES SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:
1.866.424.0500
Monday - Friday (8:00AM - 5:00PM - CST)
RIDING SAFETY AND RESPONSIBILITY
The Owner’s Responsibility
WARNING: This bicycle is made to be ridden by one rider at a time for general transportation and
recreational use. It is not made to withstand the abuse of stunting and jumping.
If the bicycle was purchased unassembled, it is the owner’s responsibility to follow all assembly and adjustment
instructions exactly as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions” supplied with the bicycle. The owner must
make sure all components are securely attached.
If the bicycle was purchased assembled, it is the owner’s responsibility, before riding the Bicycle for the first time, to
make sure the bicycle is assembled and adjusted exactly as written in this manual and any “Special Instructions” supplied
with the bicycle. The owner must make sure all components are securely attached.
Fitting the Rider to the Bicycle
To determine the correct size of bicycle for the rider.
• Straddle the assembled bicycle with feet shoulder
width apart and flat on the ground
• There must be at least one inch of clearance (1)
between the highest part of the top tube (2) and
the crotch of the rider
• The minimum leg-length for the rider is the highest
part of the top tube plus one-inch (3).
• The rider must be able to easily reach and operate
the brake levers (if so equipped).
Tools Required:
• Phillips head screw driver
• 4mm, 5mm, 6mm & 8mm Allen keys; adjustable
• Adjustable wrench or a 9mm, 10mm, 14mm & 15mm
open and box end wrenches
• Pliers with cable cutting ability.
To avoid injury, this product must be properly
assembled before use. If your bicycle was obtained after
assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the
complete assembly instructions and maintenance checks
specified in this manual before riding.

16 17
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
1. Put the seat post mounted rear reflector in the correct
position by loosening the screws of the rear reflector
bracket.
2. Make sure the rear reflector is vertical and points
straight toward the rear of the bicycle.
3. Make sure there are at least 3 inches of clearance
between the top of the seat and the top of the red rear
reflector.
OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
WARNING: For your own safety, do not ride the
bicycle if the reflectors are incorrectly installed,
damaged, or missing. Make sure the front and
rear reflectors are vertical. Do not allow the
visibility of the reflectors to be blocked by
clothing or other articles. Dirty reflectors do not
work well. Clean the reflectors, as necessary,
with soap and a damp cloth.
BICYCLE ASSEMBLY
REFLECTORS
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear
(red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) reflectors.
These are an important safety and legal requirement, and
should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions
at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and
mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace
immediately if damage is found.
(FRONT REFLECTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION)
NOTICE: It is important to check and adjust the position
of the reflectors as you assemble your bike. The reflectors
must always be vertical (perpendicular to the ground) and
pointed toward the front and rear of the bike. Please make
sure that the adjustment is correct as a final step in the
assembly of your bike.
ATTACHING HARDWARE TO THE HANDLEBARS.
With the white reflector facing forward wrap the rear end
of the reflector bracket around the handlebar(A). Once the
bracket is in the correct position, and the fastening nut is
in place underneath the bracket, thread the screw down
through the top of the bracket. Tighten screw firmly with
screwdriver(B).
Rear Reflector Diagram
REAR REFLECTOR
ADJUSTMENT
SCREWS
AT LEAS
REAR REFLECTOR INSTALLATION
Handlebar Reflector
Diagram A
Handlebar Reflector
Diagram B
Reflector
Bracket
White
Reflector
Reflectors
REFLECTORS
REFLECTORS

18 19
SEAT INSTALLATION
Attach Seat to Seat Post (Fig. 1): (pre-assembled on some models)
• Loosen nuts on seat clamp (A) and rotate Seat (14) into riding position.
• Put the seat post (33) fully through the seat clamp (A).
• Tighten the Seat Clamp (A) so the seat (14) stays on the seat post.
• If the Seat Clamp has a nut on each side, tighten both nuts equally.
CAUTION: If you accidentally drop the seat post into the seat tube, it may
be difficult to remove it.
• Point the Seat (14) forward and put the Seat Post (33) into the Seat Tube (B)
(Fig. 2, Fig. 3).
WARNING: To prevent the seat coming loose and possible loss of control,
the “MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark (C) on the seat post must be below
the top of the Seat Tube (B).
Tighten The Quick Release Lever:
• Move the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “open” position so the word “open”
is pointing away from the Seat Post Clamp (E).
NOTE: The words “open” and “close” are on opposite sides of the quick
release lever.
CAUTION: Operate the Quick Release Lever (D) by hand only. Do not use a
hammer or any other tool to tighten the quick release lever.
You must use strong force to move the quick release lever to the “close”
position. If you can easily move the lever to the “close” position, the clamping
force is too light.
• Open and close the Quick Release Lever (D) with one hand while you turn the
Adjusting Nut (F) with the other hand (Fig. 3).
• Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut by hand, so that you first feel resistance to
the quick release lever when it perpendicular to the bicycle frame.
Tighten the quick release lever (continued):
• Push the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “close” position (Fig. 3).
• When in the “close” position, make sure the Quick Release Lever (D) lays against the Seat Post Clamp (E).
• The tightening torque of the Quick Release Lever (D) should be tight enough so that the seat does not move during
normal operation.
SEAT BOLT MOUNT (Fig. 4) (various models)
Some models have a Bolt (A), Washer (B) and Nut (C) instead of a Quick
Release Lever.
• If needed, loosen the nut enough to insert the Seat Post.
• Point the seat forward and insert Seat Post to the Minimum Insertion
marks (D).
• Tighten Nut securely so it supports the rider without moving.
TESTING SEAT CLAMP AND POST CLAMP TIGHTNESS
To test the tightness of the seat clamp and the post clamp:
WARNING: Every time the quick release mechanism is loosened, make sure the red reflector is correctly positioned.
• Try to turn the seat side-to-side and to move the front of the seat up and down.
• If the seat moves in the Seat Clamp (A) (Fig. 1):
• Loosen the Seat Clamp (A).
• Put the seat in the correct position and tighten the Seat Clamp (A) tighter than before.
• Do this test again, until the seat does not move in the Seat Clamp (A).
• If the Seat Post (33) moves in the Seat Tube (B):
• Move the Quick Release Lever (D) to the “open” position.
• Put the seat in the correct position and tighten the Quick Release Lever (D) tighter than before.
• If necessary, loosen Quick Release Lever (D), tighten Adjusting Nut (F) and re-tighten Quick Release Lever (D).
• Do this test again, until the seat post does not move in the seat tube.
A
33
14
14 CB
33
B
C
E
B
F
33
D
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
FIG. 1
FIG. 4
FIG. 2
FIG. 3
DB
10 C
A

20 21
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
SADDLE HEIGHT (FIG A)
1. Turn crank to place it in its lowest position.
2. Place heel of foot on pedal with foot parallel to the ground.
3. Position saddle so that toe of other foot can touch the ground. Saddle
should also be parallel to the ground and aligned straight with the
bicycle frame.
4. Tighten seat post bolt. Recommended torque is 150 in/lbs.
FORWARDS AND BACKWARDS (FIG B)
1. Position crank arm parallel to the ground.
2. Place ball of foot on pedal with foot parallel to the ground.
3. Position the saddle so that an imaginary line drawn from the center of
your knee to the pedal spindle is vertical. Some riders move the saddle
slightly forward of this position.
NOTE: Saddle should be horizontal and perfectly aligned with the
bicycle.
4. Tighten saddle clamp nuts securely.
INSTALL PEDALS
All pedals have “ L” or “ R” stamped on the threaded spindle.
1. Thread the pedal marked “R” clockwise into the right or chain side of
the bike.
2. Thread the pedal marked “ L” counter-clockwise into the left side.
NOTE: Hand thread pedals into position without use of a wrench to
ensure threads are not crossed. Damage to crank arm will result
from crossed threads. When tightening with a wrench, make sure
each spindle is firmly seated against the crank arm. If jaws of
wrench are too thick, they may prevent proper tightening of pedal
spindle against crank arm.
FIG A
FIG B
Side of Pedal
SPINDLE
Right Pedal
turn clockwise
Side of Pedal
SPINDLE
Left Pedal
turn counter clockwise
Left Pedal

22 23
TOP CAP
PINCH
BOLT(S)
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
HANDLEBAR ASSEMBLY
Remove all protective packaging from the handlebar assembly if not
already done. Turn the fork of the bicycle to face forward. Note that
“forward” means that the wheel mounting slots are in the furthest forward
position. So the wheel axle will be in front of the fork when assembled.
(Fig. A)
Check handlebar stem clamp bolts to be sure they are properly tightened,
and handlebar can not move. The angle of the handlebar can be adjusted.
To adjust; loosen all of the handlebar stem clamping bolts, and rotate the
handlebar to the desired angle. Be sure that the handlebar stays centered
in the stem. Retighten the bolts a LITTLE at
a time being sure that the gap between the stem cap and stem stays even.
Repeat tightening each bolt a little bit until handlebar is secure. (Fig. B)
Models with gear and/or brake cables:
Locate the handlebar assembly. If your model bicycle comes equipped with
gears and/or handbrakes, you will need to be sure that the brake cables
and shift cables are properly routed. Position the handlebar assembly as if
you were going to install it, and
take a look at the cables. They should run in a smooth arc from the shifter
or brake lever to the front brake or cable stop on the frame. If they are
twisted or kinked, the shifting and braking will not work. Rotate the
handlebars around until the cables are taking the smoothest route. (Fig. C)
There are 2 basic types of handlebar mounting; Quill and Threadless.
QUILL STEMS
This is a handlebar assembly that has a wedge shaped part at the bottom
of the stem that is inserted into the fork steer tube. Loosen the center
bolt enough so that the wedge and stem can slide into the fork steer tube.
Lower the stem until the mark that says “minimum insertion” is not visible.
Tighten the stem center bolt so that the handlebar assembly is in line with
the fork. If needed, you can re-check this after the front wheel is installed,
and re-adjust. (Fig. D)
THREADLESS STEMS
This is a handlebar assembly that has a open ended stem with 1 or more
pinch bolts that goes outside of the fork steer tube. For this system it
is important not to disassemble the headset and lose any parts. Be sure
that the end of the fork is on the ground or being held with your free
hand, because once you loosen the top cap, the fork assembly may fall
out of the frame. Loosen the top cap of the fork steer and remove any
cardboard packing, the top cap, and bolt. Set these aside so you can
easily retrieve them. While holding the fork assembly in place, slide the
handlebar assembly onto the fork tube. Replace the top cap and bolt.
Tighten the top cap bolt only until the handlebar assembly and fork
have no free play, but so that the handlebar assembly and fork can still
freely turn left and right. Then tighten the pinch bolt(s) evenly with the
handlebar assembly facing forward. If needed you can re-check this after
the front wheel is installed, and re-adjust. (Fig. E)
NOTE: Comfort Series bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has
an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will
require angling the stem to the desired position, and securely tightening
the angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt. Failure to do this may
cause loss of steering control. (Fig. F)
WARNING: If the stem is not inserted at least to the “Minimum
Insertion” mark, it is possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and
damage the fork steerer tube. If these instructions are not followed,
it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider. Check
steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try
turning the handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front
wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align the handlebar with the front
wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.
INCORRECT CORRECT
FIG. C
FIG. D
FIG. E
FIG. F
FIG. A FIG. B

24 25
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
HANDLEBAR AND STEM
1. Assemble the stem to the fork: If necessary, assemble the stem
to bolt (4),washer (5), and wedge nut (2) to the stem (1).
Turn the stem bolt only four revolutions into the wedge nut (2).
Point the stem toward the front of the bicycle and put it into the
locknut. Put the stem at a comfortable height for the rider.
WARNING: To prevent steering system damage and possible
loss of control, the “MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark on the
stem must be inside the locknut. Make sure you can not see the
“MIN-IN” (minimum insertion) mark (3) on the stem above the
locknut. Tighten the stem bolt just enough that the stem will not
fall into the locknut.
2. Assemble the handlebar to the stem: Put the handlebar into the
stem, but do not tighten the handlebar clamp at this time. Align
the stem with the front wheel and tighten the stem bolt
3. Assemble the brake lever to the handlebar. Loosen the clamp
screw of each brake lever. If necessary, move the handlebar to
each side to install the brake levers put the brake levers on the
handlebar with the brake lever for the rear brake on the right side
of handlebar.
Do not tighten the clamp screw of the brake levers at this
time.
4. Tighten stem bolt and the handlebar clamp:
WARNING: do not overtighten the stem bolt. Over tightening the
stem bolt can damage the steering and cause loss of control. Make
sure the stem is aligned with the front wheel and tighten stem bolt.
MINIMUM
INSERTION
LINE
Stem Diagram Adjuster Bolt
Headset
Top Cap
Stem
Binder
Bolts
Headset
Frame
Handlebar
ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR STEM
AND HEADSET
NOTE: the handlebar stem and headset are an integrated system. Both
must be adjusted at the same time.
1. To adjust the headset or stem, first loosen the two stem binder bolts,
then the adjuster bolt in the top cap.
2. Align the handlebar stem with the front wheel.
3. To remove play from the headset, begin by tightening the adjuster bolt
in the top cap. This will tighten the headset and remove side to side
movement of the fork. If the fork fails to rotate freely, the adjuster bolt
is too tight and needs to be loosened.
WARNING: Do not over tighten the adjuster bolt. Its function is to
adjust the headset. The stem binder bolts’ function is to hold the fork
and stem in place.
4. Once the headset is adjusted, tighten the two stem binder bolts to
the recommended torque of 140 pounds per inch. Do not over tighten
these bolts.
WARNING: Do not over tighten the stem binder bolts and
handlebar binder bolts. Failure to properly tighten these bolts
may damage the handlebar and/or stem to fork assembly. This may
compromise the steering action, causing you to possibly lose control,
and possibly injure yourself.

26 27
HANDLEBAR AND STEM (CONTINUED)
Put the handlebar in a comfortable position for the rider
WARNING: if the handlebar clamp is not tight enough, the handlebar
can slip in the stem. This can cause loss of control.
Tighten the bolts of the handlebar clamp. If the handlebar clamp has more
than one bolt, then tighten the bolts equally.
5. Test the tightness of the stem: straddle the front wheel and hold it
between your legs.
Try to turn the front wheel by turning the handlebar. If the handlebar and
stem turn with out turning the front wheel, realign the stem with the front
wheel.
Tighten the bolt tighter than you did before (about half a revolution
only at a time).
Do this test again, until the handlebar and stem do not turn without
turning the wheel.
NOTE: the recommended torque of 14 -17 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten.
6. Test the tightness of the handlebar: Hold the bicycle stationary and try
to move the ends of the handlebar forward or backward.
If the handlebar moves , loosen bolts of handlebar clamps. Put the
handlebar in the correct position
Tighten the bolts of the handlebar clamp tighter than before If the
handlebar clamp has more than one bolt, tighten the bolts equally
Do this test again, until the handlebar does not move in the handlebar clamp.
WARNING: Do not exceed 100lbs downward force.
ASSEMBLE THE FRONT WHEEL TO THE FORK AS
SHOWN:
Insert wheel into position making sure the axle (1) is aligned with the
fork dropout (2)
- Make sure the tab of each security washer (4) is in the hole of the fork
NOTE: Some models have a front fork with a built in wheel retention
feature. The security washers are not required and will not fit on a
fork with this feature.
- Using the two axle nuts (3) with serrations, tighten axle nuts and
secure the front wheel.
WARNING: Do not use the nuts without serrations to attach the
front wheel.
NOTE: the recommended torque of 21 ft-lbs.
SECURITY WASHER DIAGRAM
SECURITY
WASHER
3
1
2
AXLE
NUT
AXLE
FORK
DROPOUT
4
3
HUB INSERTION DIAGRAM
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
WARNING: Do not overtighten
the stem bolt. Overtightening the
stem bolt can damage the steering
system and can cause loss of control
If necessary, re-adjust Handlebar.
Tighten Clamp nut. (6)

28 29
Quick Release Wheels
1. Locate the quick release skewer from the small parts carton of your
bicycle. Some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front
tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that both tread patterns face the same
way. (Fig. A)
2. Unscrew the lock nut from the quick release skewer, remove outer spring
and slide the skewer through the front wheel axle so that the handle is
on the left side of the bike (the side opposite the chain). (Fig. B)
3. Install spring and then start to thread the lock nut back onto the skewer,
but do not tighten too far.
4. Slide the wheel into the fork wheel slots and be sure that the wheel is
centered.
5. Inspect the handle, note that there’s an “open” and a “closed” position.
Move the handle so it is in the “open” position. With one hand on the
handle and one hand on the lock nut, start to hand tighten the lock nut
until you start to feel some resistance with the fork.
6. Try to close the handle. If it closes easily, open it up, and tighten the lock
nut further. If it is too difficult to close, open the handle up, and loosen
the lock nut a little and try again.
7. The quick release handle should be difficult to push closed with your
palm, but should be possible. Practice opening and closing the handle
until you feel comfortable. DO NOT attempt to tighten the wheel by
turning the handle to tighten; the handle is for closing, the lock nut
(opposite side) is for adjusting the tension. (Fig. C)
Next go back and check that the handlebars are perpendicular to the
front wheel, go back to handlebar assembly and re-adjust if needed.
All quick release levers should be inspected before every ride to
be sure they are fully closed and secure. Failure to properly close a
quick release lever can cause loss of control of the bicycle resulting
in injury or death.
Make sure the wheel is properly seated and the quick release is
properly closed.
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
CLOSE
FIG. A
FIG. B
FIG. C
Front Fender Installation
Use Screw Driver and Wrench:
1. Front fender attaching hardware has been pre-assembled onto the fork.
Remove the Bolt (8) and Washer (9) and Nut (10) from the fork crown.
2. Remove lower mounting Bolts (7) and Washers (6) from the dropout before
starting (Fig. 01).
3. Place the Fender (3) in the fork with the longer fork mounting tab (A) on the
rear side of the fork (Fig. 02).
4. Insert the Bolt (8) through the Washer (9) and Fender tabs and fork mounting
hole.
5. Install Nut (9) onto Bolt (8)and tighten securely.
6. Line up the lower Fender Braces (B) with the Fork Mounting Tabs (C) (Fig. 03).
7. Insert each lower mounting Bolt (7) and Washer (6) into the Fork Mounting Tabs
(C) and tighten securely.
7
6
8
910
8
A
10
9
3
7
6
B
C
FIG. 01
FIG. 02
FIG. 03

30 31
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
HAND OPERATED BRAKES
Hand operated brakes have a separate hand lever to operate front and
rear brakes. Front hand brake levers are located on the left side of the
handlebar, and rear hand brake levers are located on the right side of the
handlebar. Hand operated brakes may be used alone or on some models
in conjunction with foot operated brakes. It is OK to operate one brake
at a time, or all together, depending on your style, comfort, and riding
conditions, however, be careful to pay close attention to front brakes
locking up;
CAUTION: If the front brake is applied too quickly or too hard, the
front wheel can stop turning resulting in a front pitch over or cause
the bicycle to lose steering function leading to a crash.
To best avoid this, apply the front and rear brakes simultaneously, while
shifting your body weight back slightly to compensate for braking force.
As terrain changes, the rider must practice and learn how each bicycle will
respond in a new terrain or weather change. The same bicycle will react
differently if it is wet, or if there is gravel on the road etc. Always test the
brakes and be sure you feel comfortable with the reaction.
If the riding conditions are too steep (off road for example) and you
are unsure, dismount the bicycle and walk past the questionable terrain
before riding again. Remember that as you apply the brakes your weight
will want to shift forward, and the wheels will want to stop. See Assembly
and Maintenance for further information on brake adjustment. (Fig. D)
Rear Fender Installation
Note: Top Fender mount is loose (Fig. 06) to allow installation.
1. Line up the Rear Fender Braces (A) with the Frame Mounting Tabs (B) (Fig. 05).
2. Insert each lower mounting Bolt (7) and Washer (6) into the Frame Mounting
Tabs (B) and tighten securely. Make sure fender is centered over tire.
Tighten Top Fender Mount:
3. Tighten Bolt (11) and Nut (10) securely. Make sure fender is centered over tire
(Fig. 06).
Note: Ensure wheel spins freely without contacting frame or fender. 6
7
B
B
A
11 10
FIG. 05
FIG. 06

32 33
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
Cable head
Ferrule
anchor nut
Cable adjusting barrel
Handlebar
Grip
Brake Lever
Center Bolt
(fixing nut in back)
Cable
Cable
adjusting
barrel
Brake shoe
Brake
arm
FIG. A
FIG. B
FIG. C
FRONT BRAKE
CAUTION: Improper use of the front brake may cause front wheel
to lock up resulting in loss of directional control or front pitch over.
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer
to the appropriate assembly instructions below. *Additionally some
freestyle models may be equipped with a “cable detangler”. See
assembly steps for cable detangler.
CALIPER BRAKE
If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, slide the head of
the brake cable into the brake lever per the diagram, and thread the
cable through the slot in the brake lever so the cable end rests squarely
in the adjustment barrel or cable end rests in the recess of the brake
lever. (Fig. A)
Brake adjustment
If the brake cable is disconnected at the caliper, thread the brake wire
through the adjustment barrel, loosen the cable anchor bolt until you
can see a hole through the anchor bolt for the cable wire to attach,
thread the cable wire through the cable anchor and snug the cable
anchor by hand. (Fig. B)
Check to be sure the cable is seated in the brake lever. Loosen the
cable anchor bolt just enough to allow the cable wire to move freely.
With your left hand squeeze the caliper brake until both brake pads
contact the rim. While holding the brake closed with your left hand, use
your right hand to pull the brake cable tight (through the cable anchor)
again inspecting that the cable end is seated in the brake lever, and
the barrel adjuster of the brake. Tighten the cable anchor as much as
you can by hand, and then while still squeezing the brake, tighten the
cable anchor fully with a wrench. (Fig. C)
COASTER BRAKE
APPLY PRESSURE TO SLOW DOWN OR STOP
The coaster brake is a sealed mechanism, which is a part of the
bicycle’s rear wheel hub. The brake is activated by reversing the
rotation of the pedal cranks (see the coaster brake diagram). Start
with the pedal cranks in a nearly horizontal position, with the front
pedal in about the 4 o’clock position, and apply downward foot
pressure on the pedal that is to the rear. The more downward
pressure you apply, the more braking force, up to the point where
the rear wheel stops rotating and begins to skid.
CAUTION: Before riding, make sure that the brake is working
properly. If it is not working properly, have the bicycle checked
by your dealer before you ride it.
Adjusting your coaster brake
Coaster brake service and adjustment requires special tools and
special knowledge. Do not attempt to disassemble or service your
coaster brake. Take the bicycle to your dealer for coaster brake service.
WARNING: If you do not obey the following instructions, injury to the rider or to others can occur:
Then test the brakes and practice using them at low speed in a large and level area that is free of obstruction.
When correctly used, the brake system is very effective. But, if you apply the coaster brake too strongly you may lose
traction in the rear wheel putting the bicycle into a slide.
Always try to brake while going in a straight line. Apply brakes earlier with less pressure in the following conditions:
wet pavement, sand, gravel, leaves, or if you need to brake while turning. To reduce the chance of skidding apply
brakes intermittently.
Be careful when riding downhill or at a high speed because as your speed increases, a longer distance to stop the bicycle
will be necessary. Slow for curves because too much speed can force you to make a turn too wide. Do not touch coaster
brake after used in high speed situations. Coaster brake will get hot and may cause a burn.
Coaster
Brake
Diagram
APPLY PRESSURE TO PEDAL
TO SLOW DOWN OR STOP

34 35
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
1-2 mm
Brake pad aligned
with the rim surface
Pad and
rim should
be parallel
CORRECT
INCORRECT
Noodle
Cable head
Ferrule
Grip
Handlebar
Cable adjusting barrel
Brake lever
LINEAR PULL BRAKES
If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, slide the head of the brake
cable into the brake lever per the diagram, and thread the cable through the
slot in the brake lever so the cable end rests squarely in the adjustment barrel or
cable end rests in the recess of the brake lever. (Fig. H)
If the brake cable is disconnected at the brake arm, with left hand, squeeze the 2
brake halves together until the brake pads touch the rims. With your right hand
pull the brake cable so that the stepped end of the “noodle” can be inserted
into the brake carrier.
Brake adjustment
Check to be sure the cable is seated in the brake lever. Loosen the cable anchor
bolt just enough to allow the cable wire to move freely. With your left hand
squeeze the caliper brake until both brake pads contact the rim. While holding
the brake closed with your left hand, use your right hand to pull the brake cable
tight (through the cable anchor. Again inspecting that the cable end is seated in
the brake lever, and the barrel adjuster of the brake. Tighten the cable anchor as
much as you can by hand, and then while still squeezing the brake, tighten the
cable anchor fully with a wrench. (Fig. I)
Check the brake pads to be sure they are aligned with the rim, and that they
do not contact the tire when the brake is applied. Adjust brake pads if needed.
Then squeeze and release the brake several times squeezing as hard as you
can. After this the cable may “stretch” and need to be tightened further. If so,
repeat cable tightening steps. (Fig. J)
Centering brake
If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or one
side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the wheel is not
centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look at the gap between
the tire and the fork or frame on either side. If it is not even, loosen wheel axle
nuts and center the wheel, then proceed to centering the brake.
If the brake is not centered; use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten or loosen the
screws on either side of the linear pull brake where they mount to the frame
FIG. H
FIG. I
FIG. J
1-2 mm
Brake pad aligned
with the rim surface
Pad and
rim should
be parallel
CORRECT
INCORRECT
Equal space
between
the brake
and the rim
Rim
Brake Pads
Check the brake pads to be sure they are square to the rim, and do not
contact the tire when the brake is applied. Adjust brake pads if needed. Then
squeeze and release the brake several times squeezing as hard as you can.
After this the cable may “stretch” and need to be tightened further. If so,
repeat cable tightening steps. (Fig. E)
Centering Brake
If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or one
side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the wheel is not
centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look at the gap between
the tire and the fork or frame on either side. If it is not even, loosen wheel
axle nuts and center the wheel, then proceed to centering the brake. (Fig. F)
If the brake is not centered; loosen the nut on the back of the brake. Squeeze
the brake and hold the brake lever closed, while re-tightening the lock nut
on the back of the brake. Watch the brake, if it begins to shift or rotate, then
release the brake lever, and use your hand to rotate the brake caliper back
until both sides of the brake move equally. Sometimes it is necessary to over
rotate the brake slightly, so that as you tighten the locknut, the brake will end
up centered. Repeat the steps until the brake is centered.
Brake is correctly adjusted when:
• The brake pads do not drag on the rim when the brake is open.
• Both brake pads move away from the rim equally when the brake is released.
• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the brake
lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar. (Fig. G)
After adjusting brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several
times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering, and brake lever travel. If the
brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake pad adjustments.
Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position by spinning the wheel
and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rim on either side. Readjust as
needed. Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3
of the travel before the brake pads contact the rim. If the cable has stretched
or slipped, readjust brake cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and
pulling more cable through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for
fine tuning brake cable tension.
FIG. D FIG. E
FIG. F
FIG. G

36 37
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
BICYCLE
ASSEMBLY
Cable head
Ferrule
Grip
Handlebar
Cable adjusting barrel
Brake lever
Fork leg
Cable
anchor bolt
DISC BRAKE
If the brake cable is not connected at the brake lever, line up brake
barrel slots with brake lever slot before installing the cable. Then
slide the head of the brake cable into the brake lever per the
diagram, and thread the cable through the slot in the brake lever so
the cable end rests squarely in the adjustment barrel or cable end
rests in the recess of the brake lever. (Fig. M)
If the brake cable is disconnected at the disc caliper, thread the brake
wire through the adjustment barrel, loosen the cable anchor bolt
until you can see a hole through the anchor bolt for the cable wire to
attach, thread the cable wire through the cable anchor and snug the
cable anchor by hand. (Fig. N)
Centering brake
If you squeeze the brake and one side moves more than the other, or
one side does not move at all, then the brake is not centered, or the
wheel is not centered. First determine if the wheel is centered. Look
at the gap between the tire and the fork or frame on either side.
If it is not even, loosen wheel axle nuts and center the wheel, then
proceed to centering the brake. (Fig. O, Fig. P)
If the brake is not centered, look at the disc brake caliper for
centering adjustment screws at the center of the brake pad on either
side. (Fig. O) Looking down into the brake where the brake pads
contact the disc rotor, determine which side needs to move away
or towards the disc. Turn the centering adjustment screws so that
there is about 1/32 of an inch of clearance on either side of the disc
rotor. Spin the front wheel and listen for any rubbing noise or excess
friction. Repeat the steps until the brake is centered.
Brake is correctly adjusted when:
• The brake pads do not drag on the rotor when the brake is open.
• Both brake pads move away from the rotor equally when the brake is
released.
• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the
brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar. (Fig. Q)
FIG. M
FIG. N
or fork. If you turn the screw clockwise it will increase spring tension
on that side, counter clockwise to decrease spring tension. Start by
increasing tension on the side that is not moving or not moving enough.
Turn only about ½ turn at a time, and try squeezing and releasing
the brake lever a few times to see the difference. Repeat until the brake
is centered. If you run out of adjustment, you can go to the other side
and loosen the screw slightly to continue adjusting the brake. When the
brake is correctly adjusted, both sides should move evenly when the
brake lever is squeezed, and when released, the wheel should rotate
with no brake shoe contact. (Fig. K)
Brake is correctly adjusted when:
• Both brake pads move away from the rim equally when the brake is
released.
• The brake pads do not drag on the rim when the brake is open.
• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the
brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar (Fig. L)
After adjusting brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can
several times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering, and brake lever
travel. If the brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake
pad adjustments. Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position
by spinning the wheel and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rim
on either side. Readjust as needed. Check that the brake cable tension
allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads
contact the rim. If the cable has stretched or slipped, readjust brake
cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and pulling more cable
through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for fine tuning
brake cable tension.
FIG. K
FIG. L