Brubaker Models WildKard Parts list manual

Building the...
WildKard
brubakermodels.com
build it, fly it.

1
WARNING!
A model aircraft is not a toy and must be handled with respect and care. The following
warnings apply. Please read this entire page.
ŸThis aircraft may be capable of speeds in excess of 60 miles per hour. As such it is
capable of severe injury. This is not a “beginner” aircraft. If you are a student pilot please
get help from an experienced pilot or model club before flying this aircraft.
http://www.modelaircraft.org/ is a great place to start.
ŸThe spinning propeller can cause severe injury. Stay clear of it at all times. Do not allow
spectators to stand in the “arc” of the prop. Always treat an electric motor as “armed” if
you are unsure! Wear safety glasses and hearing protection as required. Keep loose
clothing and tools away. Do not start and run the engine over loose gravel or sand.
Carefully train your helper to hold the aircraft while starting, and navigate or carry it safely
to the flight line.
ŸLithium batteries can explode and cause intense fires. Read and understand the
instructions for your particular batteries. Handle them properly and use the correct
charger.
ŸFly the model at a designated field or other safe place. Do not fly over spectators or other
persons, private property, or buildings. Maintain a positive image of our hobby for all
concerned.
ŸWhile building, use safe shop procedures. Remember to provide adequate ventilation
while using any glues, finishes or other chemicals.
ŸUse common sense at all times and don't be afraid to ask for help from experienced
modelers or contact us at Brubaker Models.
Contact info:
email - [email protected]
phone - 661.557.0299
web - http://brubakermodels.com/
WARRANTY
Brubaker Models guarantees that this kit is free from defects in workmanship and
materials when purchased. This warranty will not cover any modified parts or damage
due to use. Brubaker Models liability shall not exceed the original purchase price of the
kit under any conditions. The quality, safety, and performance of the completed model
depends entirely upon the builder. No guarantee to the safety or performance of this
model is expressed or implied. Brubaker Models has no control over the construction of
this product and as such, assumes no liability for damage or injury resulting from its use.
The builder assumes all liability by assembling and using this product. If the builder does
not wish to assume this liability, he/she is advised to return the kit in new and resalable
condition to Brubaker Models.
All content © 2015 BRUBAKER MODELS

2
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing a Brubaker kit! There are many choices
in the model aircraft market. My commitment is to make sure that
you end up with an aircraft that you are proud to own and love to
fly. This is a KIT. Yes, it will require thought and craftsmanship to
build. I have made every effort to work out the “kinks” during the
design process. I will do my level best to support you should any
questions arise during the build. Parts are available. I also value
your suggestions. Please contact me should you need assistance
or have feedback on the model.
Contact info:
email - [email protected]
phone - 661.557.0299
web - http://brubakermodels.com/
facebook - https://www.facebook.com/brubakermodels

3
The Contents of this Kit:
Ÿ3 Laser Cut Foamboard Sheets
(fuselage, right wing, left wing)
ŸPosterboard Parts Sheet
ŸLite ply Motor Mount
ŸBirch ply Control Horns
ŸElevator Joiner Wire
ŸHardware for 3 Pushrods
ŸVelcro
ŸMotor Mounting Screws w/Nutplates
Aircraft Specs:
Wingspan: 30”
Length: 30”
Weight: 18 - 22 oz.
4 Channel w/Mixing
Required Components (not included in kit):
ŸPark 400 and up Brushless Motor w/Speed Control
ŸProp and Prop Hub (Sized to fit Motor)
Ÿ3 Micro Servos (HiTec Hs55 or similar)
ŸLipo Battery Pack (800-1200 mah, 3-4 cell)
ŸTransmitter with Mixing Capability
ŸReceiver with at least 4 Channels
*Note: The laser cut motor mount is pre-drilled to fit either the Great Planes
Cross Mount for 28mm Rimfire Motors (Tower stock #LXVPC2) or the HobbyKing
Turnigy Park 450 mount. The bolting diameter is 1.310".

4
Getting Started
You will also need a few basic tools and supplies to build this kit.
They are as follows:
ŸHot Glue Gun w/
Glue Sticks
ŸHobby Knife or
Box Cutter
ŸPopsicle Sticks
ŸSanding Block w/
180 grit paper
ŸPliers / Wire
Cutters
Also helpful are a good
building board, some 3M
77 spray glue, and spray
paint.
Left Wing Sheet Right Wing Sheet
Fuselage Sheet
#1
#3 #2
Posterboard Parts
and Stencils
Motor Mount
Control Horns
Laser Cut Parts Diagram
*Drawings not to scale

5
WINGS
Getting started! You’ll need these parts:
Note tick marks
to align center
Leading Edge Score Line
Spar Score Lines
Trailing Edge Bevel Mark
Hinge Line
Hinge Bevel Mark
Winglet Folding
Channel
Control Horn Slot
SPAR
BOTTOM SKIN
TOP SKIN
WINGLET
AILERON

6
Begin by removing the pieces from
the foam board, using a hobby knife
to cut the connecting tabs when
necessary.
Starting with the right wing panel,
“break” open the score mark at the
leading edge. Do this over the edge
of your building board.
Leading Edge
Score
Press Down Here
Building Board
Edge
Fold the wing in half on the score
line and cut a 45° bevel on both
sides of the fold it opens up. Use a
sharp knife and be careful to not cut
through the paper in the center; it
will become your leading edge. You
can sand these bevels a bit with
your 180 block if desired.
45 Bevel both sides
of Leading Edge
Score
Wing is folded
open on the
Leading Edge
Score
Break open the winglet along
both score lines and peel out
the strip of foam between
them to create a channel.
Winglet Channel
Cutting the bevel:
REMEMBER: SAVE THE
CENTER CONNECTING
PAPER!
THE DIAGRAM ON PAGE
5 WILL HELP IDENTIFY
SCORE LINES ETC.

7
Break open the aileron.
The connecting paper
will become the hinge.
Using a popsicle stick, lightly
crease the two spar score lines.
Flip the wing over and fold the aileron
over onto the bottom surface. Cut a
45° bevel on the aileron using the
marking line provided. Sand the
bevel smooth if necessary.
Peel away the paper at the trailing edge of the top skin to the trailing edge bevel
mark. You may have to score the paper a bit if it isn’t cut through. Sand this area
to a knife edge bevel. Be careful not to sand through the paper on the
underneath side.
Aileron beveled to
45°
Crease here
Peel paper
away here
Trailing Edge
Score Line
Bevel
Spar Area
REMEMBER: SAVE THE HINGE
CONNECTING PAPER!

8
Now repeat the entire process for the left wing. When finished you will have 2
wing panels that look like this, ready for glue!
YOU WILL BE USING YOUR HOT
GLUE GUN FOR MOST OF THIS
BUILD. WHERE OTHER
ADHESIVES ARE UTILIZED IT
WILL BE NOTED.
Place the right wing panel on your
board and glue the spar in its
location as shown. You can draw a
pencil line between the tick marks
at the spars center if you wish.
Make sure it is correctly aligned on
the center and along the score line
closest to the leading edge fold.
Center
Aligned
Here
Align to Spar Score
Bead of Hot Glue
between Spar and
Top Skin
Correct Orentation
Press the glue down firmly:
KEEP YOUR GLUE GUN
LYING ON A SCRAP OF
CARDBOARD SO IT
DOESN’T DRIP HOT GLUE
ON THE BENCH
Gluing the Spar

9
*
Beads of hot glue in
these 4 locations
TOP SKIN/SPAR
FOLDS DOWN ONTO
BOTTOM SKIN
Without gluing fold the top
skin over onto the bottom
skin. Work it down gently,
back and forth, pressing from
front to back, forming the
airfoil.
The airfoil cross section looks
like this:
When you are satisfied
that it folds as it should,
put beads of glue in the 4
locations shown in the
diagram. Immediately
fold it over and press it
down in place as you did
above. Make sure the
spar is firmly seated and
continue to work the
trailing edge down as the
glue cools.
Folding the Right Wing
*Note that right and left are always designated as if you were in
the cockpit with the with the aircraft right side up.

10
Place the wing panels together and check the fit. Now run a bead of glue on
the bottom of the spar and along the edge of the lower skin on the RIGHT
wing panel. Immediately place the two panels back together, holding them
firmly, and press the spar down onto the left wing panel. See the diagrams.
JOINING THE WINGS
*Bottom View
*Center Edge View
Glue Locations on Right Wing Panel
Glue bottom
of Spar
Glue Edge of
Lower Skin
Joining the
Wing Panels
*Top View
Waxed Paper
under Joint
A piece of waxed paper on
your bench can keep parts
from sticking
Press Spar
down firmly
Press Center
Joint together
*Glue shown as reference from previous diagram

11
Fold the top left wing
skin down as you did
for the right one,
pressing it all the
way down to check
the fit. Put glue in
the leading edge
bevel, on the top of
the spar, and along
the trailing edge and
fold it over again,
pressing the spar
and trailing edge
down firmly until the
glue cools.
*Top View
Folding the Left Wing
*
Beads of hot glue in
these 4 locations
Top Skin folds down
onto Bottom Skin
Put a bead of glue in the
top skin center joint. Glue
the #3 Posterboard Part
in place over the top
center joint with 3 beads
of glue as in the photo.
Once the glue has cooled,
squeeze a new bead in the
corner and wipe it with a
popsicle stick to form a nice fillet.
Put a bead of glue in the winglet channel.
Fold it up vertical and align it with the
winglet angle alignment tool from your kit.
See the diagram and photo.
Winglet Channel
Hot Glue Here

12
Remove control horns from their sheet.
Slide one base plate onto each control
horn. Add some hot glue and insert each
one into its slot. Make sure that it is in the
TOP of the aileron and pointed
FORWARD.
Glue a second base plate onto the
bottom of each tab that extends through
the bottom of the aileron.
Put a small bead of glue in the aileron
hinge gap and fold the aileron open so
the gap is open flat. Scrape excess glue
off, being careful to leave only a thin film
behind. This will be your aileron hinge.
Repeat for the other aileron.
Aileron Control Horns
Aileron Hinges
Aileron Hinge
A small bead of glue here,
scraped to a thin film,
creates the aileron hinge.

13
The Main Wing is Finished!
To invent an airplane is nothing. To build one is something. But to fly is everything. ~ Otto Lilienthal
CANARD
Getting started! You’ll need these parts:

14
Remove canard from the foam
board sheet. Familiarize yourself
with the required bevels in the
diagram above. Break open the
elevators and center trailing
section. Cut a 45° bevel on the
elevators and peel out the foam
strip in the center section area.
Also cut a 45° bevel at the leading
edge of the lower skin. Peel away
the paper from the bevel areas on
the upper skins and sand these to
a knife edge bevel. Check your
work against the diagram, and
don’t glue the skins down yet.
Beveling the Canard
A
A
BC
BC
B
B
A-A
B-B
C-C
Cross Sections
45° Bevel on
Lower Skin
Bevel
Bevel
45° Hinge Bevel
Square Channel
REMEMBER: SAVE THE
CENTER CONNECTING
PAPER!
Cutting the Elevator Bevel:
Peeling out the Center Section Channel:
Sanding a Bevel:
45° Hinge Bevel
Bevel
Bevel

15
Flip the canard over on the
bench. Tape the elevators
and center section back over
the canard, like in the photo.
I like blue painter’s tape here
because it is not quite as
tacky as other tape.
Center the elevator joiner wire
on the hinge line and mark
where each arm will enter the
foam of the elevator.
Take the 8” section of .062” music wire included
in the kit and mark 3/4” from each end. Bend it
with pliers to match this sketch.
Joiner Wire
*Actual Size
Melt hole in
foam here
for wire arm
(both sides).
Melt channel here
to recess wire in
foam bevel (both
sides).
Elevator Joiner Wire
Using a heat gun,
kitchen stove or
even a lighter, heat
the wire until it will
melt the foam. Test
this on a scrap
piece. Use the
heated wire to make
the holes and
channels in the
elevators as shown
in the diagram.
When you are
finished, the wire
should fit flush into
the bevels of the
elevators.
*Diagram does not show
elevators and
center section folded
over for this step. They
should be folded as in
the photos.

16
Now fill the holes and
channels with hot
glue and press the
wire into place with a
popsicle stick.
Scrape away excess
glue from the hinge
line. Also do not get
any glue in the center
section channel area.
The rod must turn
freely here. You can
now un-tape the
control surfaces from
the canard.
Pump Glue in
hole here
for wire arm
(both sides).
Place glue
along channel
here (both
sides).
Gluing the Elevator Joiner Wire
No glue
here
Pressing the wire in.
Create the hinges
just as you did for
the aileron, by
applying a small
bead of glue,
removing any
excess, and scraping
it to a thin film. Be
careful not to get
glue in the center
section channel.
*Diagram does not show
elevators and
center section folded
over for this step. They
should be folded as in
the photos.
Elevator Hinges
Small glue bead here for hinges

17
Folding the Canard *
Place beads of glue in
these locations.
Glue the Posterboard Part #1
Channel Cover on as in the
diagram. Now dry fold the top
skins of the canard to the
trailing edge, just as you did
on the wing section, working
them down. Next, doing one
side at a time, put beads of
hot glue in the locations
shown, and then fold,
pressing firmly until the glue
cools. Pay special attention
to get the trailing edge
sealed down tight.
Glue the center joint with a
bead of hot glue, scraping
the excess away.
Posterboard Part#1
Channel Cover
Glue here

18
Glue the control horn in the
elevator just as you did for the
ailerons. The control horn should
be in the TOP of the right hand
elevator and pointing forward.
Be sure to glue the base plate
on the bottom.
You are now finished with the
canard!
The parts pile is growing!

19
MOTOR MOUNT
Now we will assemble the motor
mount. You will need the Lite Ply
Motor Mount sheet and the 4 T-
nuts included in your kit.
Remove the ply parts from their
sheet. I build this part with CA
glue, but you can also use wood
glue if you wish. Follow the
sequence in the photos.
Getting started! You’ll need these parts:
1. Glue B to A. Align
the mounting holes:
2.Glue and press T-nuts into B:
3. Glue A/B into C:
4. Glue a D on each side:
5. Glue E on top: