Butternut BUT-HF9V User manual

Butternut® HF9V
80/40/30/20/15/17/12/10/6 Meters
Nine-Band
Vertical Antenna
BUT-HF9V
BUT-HF9V-INS-Revision 1b
© Butternut 2016 Artists rendition
1200 Southeast Ave. - Tallmadge, OH 44278 USA of an installation
Phone: [phone] ∙ Fax: [phone]
Tech Support and International: [phone]
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Introduction
The classic Butternut® HF9V Nine-band vertical antenna operates on 75/80, 40, 30, 20, 17, 12, 15,
10 and 6 meters. Designed with corrosion-resistant aluminum tubing, 26 feet tall and only a 2.2 ft2
wind load, this antenna is very durable and attractive.
Features
Full band coverage for 80, 40, 30, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10 and 6 meters
Height is 26 feet
Weight is only 14 pounds
Feedpoint Impedance is a nominal 50 ohms through the included matching line
Power handling: 1,500 W full legal limit on 80/40/20/15/10M
800 W PEP on 17 and 12M
500 W PEP on 30 and 6M
Wind load 2.2 ft2 (80 mph survivability - no ice)
VSWR at resonance: 1.5:1 to 2.5:1 or less on all bands
Bandwidth for VSWR 2:1 or less: 30/20/17/15/12/10M - entire band.
Bandwidth for VSWR 2:1 or less: 140-150 kHz on 40M, 25-30 kHz on 75/80M
Active Element Lengths: 1/4-wavelength on 80, 40, 30 and 15M
3/8-wavelength on 20M
1/2-wavelength on 17M
5/8-wavelength on 12M
3/4-wavelength on 10, 6M
Requires radial system
WARNING!
INSTALLATION OF ANY ANTENNA NEAR POWER LINES IS DANGEROUS
Warning: Do not locate the antenna near overhead power lines or other electric light or power
circuits, or where it can come into contact with such circuits. When installing the antenna, take
extreme care not to come into contact with such circuits, because they may cause serious injury or
death.
Overhead Power Line Safety
Before you begin working, check carefully for overhead power lines in the area you will be
working. Don't assume that wires are telephone or cable lines; check with your electric utility for
advice. Although overhead power lines may appear to be insulated, often these coverings are
intended only to protect metal wires from weather conditions and may not protect you from electric
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shock. Keep your distance! As a suggestion, remember the 10-foot rule; when carrying and using
ladders and other long tools, keep them at least 10 feet away from all overhead lines - including any
lines from the power pole to your home.
Theory of Operation
The first L/C circuit generates enough reactance to bring the whole HF9V to resonance on 80
meters allowing it to act as an electrical 1/4-wavelength radiator. It also generates enough
capacitive reactance to produce another discrete resonance at about 11 MHz.
The second, 40 meter L/C circuit generates enough reactance to resonate the whole HF9V allowing
it to act as a 1/4-wavelength radiator. In order to minimize conductor and I²R losses on 80 and 40
meters where the antenna is physically shorter than a 1/4-wavelength and thus operates with lower
values of radiation resistance, large-diameter self-supporting inductors and low-loss ceramic
capacitors are employed. Where the height of the HF9V is slightly greater than a 1/4-wavelength
on 30 meters, an L/C series tuned circuit taps onto the 40 meter coil for the extra inductance to pull
the earlier 11 MHz secondary resonance down to 10 MHz.
At the same time, a portion of the 40 meter coil is shorted out which allows the circuit to resonate
on 30 meters The addition of this circuit also produces additional resonances at 14 MHz and 28
MHz.
On 20 meters the entire radiator operates as a 3/8-wavelength vertical with much higher radiation
resistance and VSWR bandwidth than conventional or trapped antennas having a physical height of
1/4-wavelength or less. Because the 20 meter radiation resistance will be several times greater than
that of conventional vertical antennas, an electrical 1/4-wavelength section of 75 ohm coax is used
as a geometric mean transformer to match the approximate 100 ohms of feedpoint impedance on
that band to a 50 ohm main transmission line of any convenient length.
The HF9V operates as a slightly extended 1/4-wavelength radiator on 15 meters, a 1/4-wavelength
stub decoupler providing practically lossless isolation of the upper half of the antenna on that band.
On 10 meters the HF9V becomes a 3/4-wavelength radiator with considerably greater radiation
resistance and efficiency than 1/4-wavelength trapped types.
On 17 and 12 meters the coils act as packets of reactance which allow the entire radiator to operate
as a 1/2-wavelength or 5/8-wavelength vertical. Capacitance for these circuits comes from what
exists between the windings, the radiator and the capacitance hat.
On 6 meters the vertical wire, together with the adjacent section of antenna, form a short-circuited
1/4-wavelength transmission line which cancels current flow. At the lower, open end of the 1/4-
wavelength section a very high impedance is created the effectively divorces the upper part of the
antenna leaving the lower section to radiate as a 3/4-wavelength vertical.
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Tools Required
Straight Slot Screwdriver
Phillips Head Screwdriver
1/4” Nut Driver or socket set
11/32” Nut Driver or socket set
3/8” Nut Driver or socket set
Tape measure
Pencil
NOTE: Please read all instructions thoroughly before proceeding to the assembly.
There are parts made from fiberglass in this kit. Take normal precautions when handling any
fiberglass material. There may be fiberglass dust, slivers or particles present when the fiberglass
parts were manufactured. The use of typical fiberglass handling safety gear (gloves, dust mask, eye
shield, clothing, etc.) when handling and working with fiberglass is recommended. Use a damp rag
to wipe the parts. Do not use compressed air to clean fiberglass parts. Measures can be taken to
reduce exposure after a person has come in contact with fiberglass. Eyes should be flushed with
water and any area of exposed skin should be washed with soap and warm water to remove fibers.
Clothing worn while working with fiberglass should be removed and washed separately from other
clothing. The washing machine should be rinsed thoroughly after the exposed clothing has been
washed. Check with your local or state safety and/or environmental agencies for more detailed
precautions.
Additional Material Needed But Not Supplied
Jet-Lube™ SS-30 Aniti-Oxidant Corrosion Inhibiting Lubricant
Ground Rod installed near base of the antenna.
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Suggested Parts Not Included
NOTE: High performance Butternut® Vertical Antennas require a radial system for all installations.
Butternut offers a variety of radial systems for installing with vertical antennas.
Radial Wire Kits and Components - There are optional Butternut Radial Wire Kits available.
Guying Kit for Vertical Antennas - Some vertical antenna manufacturers indicate their antennas do
not need guying. During times of high winds or ice loading, some of these vertical antennas may
sustain damage or fail altogether. With the small amount of effort needed to install a four point
guying system, the risk hardly seems worth taking. A four-point guying scheme provides the best
mechanical advantage to reduce wind stress, regardless of direction. Information on guying the
Butternut® HF9V is included in this manual. Information on guying the Butternut® HF9V can be
found in the section “Guying the HF9V Antenna”.
BUT-GRK Ground Radial Kit for ground mounting - 160 thru 6 meter operation
BUT-RMK-II Roof Mounting Kit for roof mounting - 80 thru 6 meter operation
Site Selection
Ideally, select a mounting location clear from power lines, structures and other antennas by a
minimum of 45 feet. Consider overhead power lines, utility cables and wires.
The vertical should be mounted away from local noise sources or other metallic objects which can
re-radiate noise and affect the tuning, radiation pattern and SWR.
Determine the direction you want the antenna to tilt down and make sure there is adequate clearance
(at least 45 feet). There should also be a clear diameter of 70 to 130 feet from the antenna for the
guying and radial systems that will extend away from the antenna.
As with all Amateur Radio antennas there maybe compromises and the ideal site may not be
available.
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Mounting Tube (A) Installation
When the bottom tube with insulator (A) is ground mounted, it should be protected against
corrosion if placed in concrete, damp acidic or alkaline soil. Asphalt roofing compound,
polyurethane varnish or other sealant that protects against moisture may be used. Concrete may be
used in areas of high winds for greater strength, in which case the post may be twisted slightly
during setting for easy removal later. Ensure it is not mounted at an angle. You want the antenna to
be vertical when fully installed. To help maintain the antenna base, place a larger diameter metal
tube, such as the BUT-MPS Mounting Post Sleeve in the ground, then you can slip tube w/insulator
(A) in and it will be protected from direct contact with the concrete.
Tube with insulator (A) must be installed in a hole approximately
21” deep so that the upper end of the fiberglass insulator is
approximately 7” above ground level. Pack earth tightly around
tube w/insulator (A) so that it remains vertical. When installed, you
want the top of tube A at 2-3” or less above ground level to keep
the feedpoint below 5” above ground level.
NOTE: HAMMERING TUBE W/INSULATOR (A) INTO THE EARTH MAY CAUSE THE
INSULATOR TO SPLINTER. If the post must be hammered into the earth, protect the end of the
insulator with a block of wood
NOTE: DO NOT USE U-BOLTS TO ATTACH TUBE W/INSULATOR (A) TO A MAST,
TOWER ETC. WITHOUT ADDED PROTECTION. U-BOLTS WILL EVENTUALLY CUT
INTO THE TUBING AND WEAKEN THE INSTALLATION. If U-bolts are used, place a larger
diameter metal tube, such as the BUT-MPS Mounting Post Sleeve over tube w/insulator (A).
Similar precautions should be observed when using TV style towers with locking bolts.
The BUT-RMK-II Roof Mounting Kit includes the BUT-MPS as well as the BUT-STR-II Stub
Tuned Radial Kit.
Radial System
The use of a radial system is a key requirement for any high performance quarter wave vertical
antenna system. With any vertical antenna system, the radials are the second half of the
antenna. The radials contribute to the radiation efficiency of the entire vertical antenna
system.
The exact number of radials required for low SWR and reasonably efficient operation will depend
in large measure on local earth conductivity, and this may vary considerably from one place to the
next and from one frequency band to the next. For most installations the soil conditions will be
poor to very poor when it comes to conductivity.
The best procedure is to assume that most earth is a poor conductor over the HF range and that
some radial wires will be needed. Radials may be placed on the surface of the earth or buried
slightly below the surface to get them out of the way, and their length is largely a matter of
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convenience. In general, a large number of short radials are preferable to a small number of longer
radials for a given amount of wire, especially if fewer than a dozen radials are to be used. Unlike
resonant radials that must be cut to the proper lengths for use with elevated verticals, ground-level
radials need not to be cut to any particular length; their sole purpose is to provide less lossy return
paths for currents flowing along the earth than the earth itself can provide. And, since "return"
currents will be flowing back to the antenna from all points of the compass, the radial wires should
be spaced uniformly over 360 degrees, although physical circumstances will often make this "ideal"
distribution impossible. For a discussion of ground system for elevated verticals, see the section
entitled "Above Ground Installations" following Checkout and Adjustment instructions.
At a minimum, 20 radials, each 32 feet long, may be used with this antenna. Using 32 radials at 65
feet long are preferred and highly recommended for the best performance on 80 meters with this
antenna. The extra radials help overcome unknown poor-soil conditions, improve bandwidth, and
ensure the best performance efficiency possible from the Butternut® HF9V antenna. Radial Wire, a
14 gauge stranded copper with black relaxed PVC insulation wire is suggested for the best results
for ease of installation and being able to withstand foot traffic over the radial wires without
breaking smaller gage wires.
The wire radials should placed as symmetrically as possible
straight from the feedpoint around the vertical antenna and spaced
evenly, regardless of how many radials are used. Do not cross or
bunch any radial wires as this nullifies their effectiveness. If you
have limited space, put in as many straight radials as you can. The
radials must be connected to the shield of your feedline. A
Stainless Steel Radial Plate is the ideal optional item which
provides an excellent system for attaching radial wires to your
vertical antenna system.
Radial wires can be laid on the roots of the grass or on bare ground
using Radial Wire Anchor Pins to hold them down. Using enough
staples will ensure the wires will not be snagged by mowers, people, or animals. Depending on
where you live and the type of grass you have, grass will quickly overgrow the radials and it will be
virtually impossible to see them. An article describing this process is available on the Butternut
website. Radials can also be buried just under the surface (approximately 1” - anything deeper and
you will start losing effectiveness) by using a power edger to make a slit in the soil.
NOTE: The function of a ground rod is to place the antenna at dc ground potential. It cannot take
the place of an effective RF ground system, such as a number of radial wires, regardless of its depth
in the earth. It does, however, serve as a convenient tie-point for such radials, as does the bolt
through mounting post w/insulator (A) to which radials can be connected by means of the remaining
#8 hardware.
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The Optional Butternut Radial Plate
A Stainless Steel Radial Plate is an ideal option for the radial system that is needed for the
Butternut® HF9V vertical antenna. The radial plate can be set on the ground. When the antenna is
installed, run a short piece of copper strap from the radial plate to the lower connection of coil Q
mounted on tube (A) of the HF9V or mounted on the antenna base if the optional BUT-MPS
Mounting Post Sleeve is used. In either case, a ground wire attachment from the lower tube (A) to
the Radial Plate should be made to ensure a good RF connection. This is the same stainless steel
Radial Plate that is used on all Butternut vertical antennas and has proven itself to be an
enhancement that really works for vertical antenna systems.
Optional Radial Plate shown installed.
Aluminum Tubing Information
When assembling any telescoping aluminum tubing sections you should take the following steps:
1. Make sure the edges are smooth and not sharp. Deburring may be necessary, since burrs and
shavings can occur on seams as well as edges. All surfaces need to be completely smooth to
allow easy assembly of tubing sections.
Caution
Aluminum tubing edges can be very sharp.
Take precautions to ensure you do not get accidentally cut.
The raised particles and shavings that appear when the aluminum tubing is machined are
referred to as burrs, and the process by which they are removed is known as deburring.
Butternut aluminum tubing is machine cut on both ends and machine slit on one end.
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2. Clean the inside of the aluminum tubing to clear out any dirt or foreign material that would
cause the aluminum tubing sections to bind during assembly. Do not use any type of oil or
general lubricant between the aluminum tubing sections. Oils or general lubricants can cause
poor electrical connections for radio frequencies.
3. Clean the outside of the aluminum tubing to clear any dirt or foreign material that would cause
the clamps to malfunction during assembly.
4. The use Jet-Lube™ SS-30 Pure Copper Anti-Seize is highly recommended. Jet-Lube™ SS-30
is an electrical joint compound which effects a substantial electrical connection between metal
parts such as telescoping aluminum tubing or other antenna pieces. Using Jet-Lube™ SS-30
assures high conductivity at all voltage levels by displacing moisture and preventing corrosion
or oxidation.
5. When assembling the aluminum tubing sections, ensure the area is clear of grass, dirt or other
foreign material that could cause problems during assembly of the closely fitted telescoping
sections.
Assembly
Note: For reference, a completed HF9V Antenna is shown at the end of this manual
following the detailed parts list.
Note: Jet-Lube™ SS-30 Anti-Oxidant should be used between all antenna element sections.
Jet-Lube™ SS-30 is an electrical joint compound to affect a substantial electrical
connection between metal parts such as telescoping aluminum tubing or other antenna
pieces. It ensures high conductivity at all voltage levels by displacing moisture and
preventing corrosion or oxidation.
Jet-Lube™ SS-30 should also be used on all coil clamps, element clamps, bolts and
stainless steel threaded hardware to provide good electrical contact, prevent galling,
allow easier disassembly and to ensure proper tightening.
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1. Check to be sure that no parts are missing (see assembled antenna pictorial page)
2. If the antenna is to be installed at ground level, install mounting tube (A) in a hole
approximately 21 inches deep so the upper end of the fiber rod insulator (feedpoint connection)
is approximately 3 inches or less above ground level. Ensure it is not mounted at an angle.
You want the antenna to be vertical when fully installed.
Pack earth tightly around mounting tube (A) so that it will remain vertical. Concrete may be
used in areas of high wind for greater rigidity, in which case the mounting tube should be
rotated while the concrete is setting so that it may be easily removed later. If the antenna is to be
mounted in concrete or in damp, acidic or alkaline soil, the
mounting tube should be given a protective coating of asphalt
roofing compound, polyurethane varnish, or another suitable
covering to protect the metal against corrosion. You may also
want to use the optional BUT-MPS Mounting Post Sleeve which
fits over tube (A) to help protect it from contamination.
NOTE: DO NOT HAMMER THE MOUNTING POST INTO THE GROUND AS THIS
CAN SPLINTER THE FIBER ROD INSULATOR AND COMPLICATE
INSTALLATION.
Note: Step 3 starts the antenna assembly minus Tube A (with insulator). The antenna assembly
will be mated to tube (A) when ready to be installed for final assembly steps. In all subsequent
steps, assembly should be done indoors or in an area where dropped hardware may easily be
recovered.
3. Locate Tube (B) and (B1). Slide the insulator on tube (B1) into the top of tube section (B) and
secure with a #8 x 1-1/2" bolt, #8 lock washer and #8 hex nut.
Tube (B) 1-1/8” x 48” long Tube (B1) 1-1/8” x 12” with insulator
NOTE: Tube (B) has the mounting hole located 1/4" from the end.
CAUTION: IF A FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER IS USED - NEVER HOLD THE WORK
OPPOSITE THE BLADE IN ORDER TO AVOID POSSIBLE INJURY IN CASE
THE BLADE SLIPS
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4. From the center of the insulator, measure downward to a point that is 13” along tube (B) and
make a pencil mark.
5. From the center of the insulator, measure upward to a point that is 9-3/8" along tube (B1) and
make a pencil mark.
Note: Jet-Lube™ SS-30 Anti-Oxidant should be used on all coil clamps, element clamps, bolts
and stainless steel threaded hardware to provide good electrical contact, prevent
galling, allow easier disassembly and to ensure proper tightening.
6. Locate coil assembly 80/40 meter (C) and slide the clamp at the outer end of the larger 80 meter
coil over tube (B1), lowering the entire assembly until the middle clamp can be positioned
around the insulator between tube (B) and tube (B1). NOTE: The middle clamp may have to be
pulled open slightly to pass the bolt that goes through tube (B1) and the insulator.
7. Position the center coil clamp of coil assembly 80/40 meter (C) in the center of the insulator
between tube (B) and tube (B1). Pass a #10 x 1" screw through the clamp as shown. Secure with
a flat washer, lock washer and wing nut. NOTE: The outer tab of this clamp may be bent back
slightly to provide clearance for the bolt, bending it back into place after assembly.
8. Stretch the 40 meter (smaller) coil on the coil assembly 80/40 meter (C) until the top of the
upper clamp is even with the upper mark. Secure with a #10 flat washer, lock washer and wing
nut.
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9. Stretch the 80 meter (larger) coil on the coil assembly 80/40 meter (C) until the bottom of the
lower clamp is even with the lower mark. Secure with a #10 flat washer, lock washer and wing
nut.
10. Locate the capacitor assembly 80/40 meter (D) and install capacitor bracket 80 meter (D1) on
the larger 200 pF capacitor using the installed screw.
NOTE: DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE OR OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ON EITHER
CAPACITOR AS YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM. DO NOT DROP THIS ASSEMBLY AS
YOU MAY FRACTURE THE CAPACITOR’S CERAMIC SHELL.
11. Locate capacitor bracket 40 meter (D2) and install on the smaller 67 pF capacitor as shown.
12. Install the above assembly onto the #10 screw protruding from the tab of the center clamp on the
coil assembly 80/40 meter (C). Align capacitor bracket 80 meter (D1) alongside the larger 80
meter coil of coil assembly 80/40 meter (C). Secure with a #10 flat washer, lock washer and hex
nut.
13. Attach the tab end of capacitor bracket 80 meter (D1) to tube (B) with capacitor bracket clamp
(U) and secure with # 8 x 1" screw, lock washer and a hex nut.
14. Attach the tab end of capacitor bracket 40 meter (D2) to tube (B1) with capacitor bracket clamp
(U) and secure with # 8 x 1" screw, lock washer and a hex nut.
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15. Insert the un-slotted end of tube (E) into tube (B1) and secure with a # 8 x 1-1/2" screw, lock
washer and hex nut.
16. Locate coil support tube 30 meter (O) and measure to a point 9-7/8” down from the end of the
plastic insulator. Mark this point with a pencil.
17. Locate coil support tube 30 meter L bracket (O1) and place the tabbed end inside of the coil
support tube 30 meter (O) securing it with a # 8 x 3/4" screw, lock washer and hex nut.
18. Place a #10 washer, lock washer and wing nut on the lower single clamp of coil/capacitor
assembly 30 meter (P).
19. Place a #10 washer, lock washer and hex nut on both upper clamps of coil/capacitor assembly
30 meter (P).
20. Pass the lower single clamp of coil/capacitor assembly 30 meter (P) over the insulator end of
coil support tube 30 meter (O) and slide the coil downward along the tube until the upper edge
of the upper clamp is flush with the end of the insulator. Align the upper clamp with the coil
support tube 30 meter L bracket (O1) and tighten the hex nut.
21. Stretch the coil until the bottom of the bottom clamp on the coil/capacitor assembly 30 meter (P)
is even with the 9-7/8” mark on coil support tube 30 meter (O) and tighten the wing nut.
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22. Slide the remaining clamp from the above assembly over
tube (E) and position it so the coil support tube L bracket
(O1) is even with fourth turn, counting from the top of the
40 meter coil on the coil assembly 80/40 meter (C) and
tighten the hex nut.
23. Hook the 30M coil support tube L-bracket (O1) around
the fourth turn of the 40 meter coil on coil assembly 80/40
meters (C). Secure with a # 8 x 3/4" screw, lock washer
and hex nut.
24. Attach the 17M strip (X) to the bolt that fastens the coil to the plastic insulator between the coil
and the upper clamp of the 17M coil assembly
A-17-12 (W). Use the attached flat washer, lock
washer and hex nut.
25. Attach the 12M strip (Z) to the 12M coil
assembly A-17-12 (Y). Use the attached flat
washer, lock washer and hex nut.
26. Loosen the #10 hex nut on the bottom clamp and
the wing nut on the upper clamp of the 17M coil
assembly A-17-12 (W) and slide the assembly
over the upper end of tube (E) with the insulator
end up.
27. Slide the unit down until the lower clamp of the
17M coil assembly A-17-12 (W) rests on the
upper clamp of the coil/capacitor assembly 30
meter (O).
28. Tighten the hex nut and stretch the coil so that
the distance between the upper edge of the lower
clamp and the lower edge of the upper clamp is
10-1/2”.
29. Install the 12M coil assembly A-17-12 (Y) in
the same way, so the lower edge of the lower
clamp is about 2” above the upper clamp of the
17M coil assembly A-17-12 (W). This distance
is not critical. Note: The 12M coil MUST be
compressed as much as possible upon initial tuning. If not, it is highly probably that 12M will
actually be tuned into 10M throwing the ability to tune 10M at all.
30. Tighten the hex nut and stretch the coil so that the distance between the upper edge of the lower
clamp and the lower edge of the upper clamp is 8-3/4”.
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Steps 31 through 48 are for installing the 15 and 6 meter parts to the antenna. Use the following
diagram to assist in identifying the parts and their proper locations:
31. Position wire clamp 0.875" 15M with insulator (K) around tube (F) and use a # 8 x 1" screw,
lock washer and hex nut. Tighten just finger tight. Final adjustment will be done in a later step.
32. Slide wire clamp 0.875" 6M with insulator (V) around tube (F).
33. Insert the un-slotted end of tube (G) into the slotted end of tube (F) and secure with a # 8 x 1
1/4" screw, lock washer and hex nut.
34. Position wire clamp 0.750" 6M with insulator (U) around tube (G).
35. Locate wire clamp 0.750" 15M with insulator (N) and position it around tube (G). Final
tightening and positioning will be done in a later step.
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36. Insert the un-slotted end of tube (H) into the slotted end of tube (G) and secure with a # 8 x 1"
screw, lock washer and hex nut.
37. Position wire clamp 0.625" 6M with wire (T) around tube (H) so the top edge is 33-1/4” from
the upper end of the tube.
38. Pass the free end of the stranded wire from wire clamp 0.625" 6M with wire (T) through the
small hole in wire clamp 0.750" 6M with insulator (U).
39. Line up and position the bottom edge of the 6M wire clamp 0.875" with insulator (V) 58" from
the upper edge of the 6M wire clamp 0.625" with wire (T) and tighten.
40. Pass the free end of the stranded wire from the 6M wire clamp 0.625" with wire (T) through the
small hole in the 6M wire clamp 0.875" with insulator (V). Loop the free end of the wire
around itself. Do not cut off the excess.
41. Center and align wire clamp 0.750" with insulator (U) and tighten.
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42. Locate the 15M wire clamp 0.625" with insulator (M) and position it around tube (H). Final
tightening and positioning will be done in a later step.
43. Insert the un-slotted end of tube (I) into the slotted end of tube (H) and secure with a # 8 x 1"
screw, lock washer and hex nut.
44. Position wire clamp 0.500" 15M with wire (L) around tube (I) so the top edge is 13-1/2 inches
from the upper end of the tube and on the opposite side from the 6 meter assembly.
45. Measure from the rivet of wire clamp 0.500" 15M with wire (L) to a point 11 feet 3 inches along
the stranded wire and mark this point.
46. Pass the free end of the stranded wire from wire clamp 0.500" 15M with wire (L) through the
small holes in wire clamp 0.625" 15M with insulator (M) and wire clamp 0.750" 15M
w/insulator (N) as shown.
47. Loop the end of the wire through the hole in wire clamp 0.875" 15M with insulator (K) sliding it
on tube (F) until the mark on the wire appears. Wind the wire back on itself. Do not cut off the
excess wire.
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48. Line up wire clamp 0.875" 15M with insulator (K), wire clamp 0.750" 15M with insulator (N)
and wire clamp 0.625" 15M with insulator (M) with wire clamp 0.500" 15M with wire (L) and
tighten all clamps making sure the wire is moderately taut but not enough to cause the upper
tubing section to bow. Once tuning is complete, cover the end of the 15M and 6M wires with
Scotch® Super 33+ tape to keep water from entering the wire.
49. Slide the uncapped end of tube (J) into the slotted end of tube (I) until 25 inches extends out
from the end of tube (I) and secure with the small adjustable compression clamp (CC).
50. Place the protective cap (AA) on one end of tube (J).
NOTE: In the following steps the antenna will be assembled and raised to its full vertical height. If
the antenna is to be installed in an elevated position where it is unsafe or inconvenient to make
in-place adjustments, the antenna may have to be installed in one piece. It will probably be
necessary to raise and lower it and its supporting structure a number of times to arrive at the
ideal adjustment on all bands. If so, every precaution should be observed in order to avoid
possible contact with power lines and to prevent structural failure that can cause injury to
persons or property.
WARNING: AVOID POWER LINES!
51. Place the lower end of tube (B) through tube (E) over the insulator on tube (A) with insulator.
Line up the holes and secure it with a # 8 x 2" screw, lock washer and hex nut.
52. Raise the assembly of tube (F) through tube (J) and slide the lower end into tube (E) fastening it
securely with a # 8 x 1-1/4" screw, lock washer and hex nut.
53. Install the 75 ohm matching coax (R) as shown placing the lug from the center conductor of the
coax over the screw on tube (B) and the braid (ground side of coax) over the screw on tube with
insulator (A). To aid in eliminating water damage of the coax, run it so the terminals are facing
downward so water will drip down, not toward the coaxial cable.
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54. Place # 8 washers over each screw and install coil (Q) base matching. Secure with washers, lock
washers and hex nuts.
NOTE: Attach radials and ground to tube with insulator (A) using the remaining # 8 hardware on
the ground side (lower side) of the coaxial cable connection.
WARNING: MAKE SURE THAT THE STATION EQUIPMENT IS CONNECTED TO A
GOOD EARTH GROUND! DO NOT HANDLE CABLE CONNECTED TO STATION
EQUIPMENT WITHOUT FIRST DISCONNECTING THE EQUIPMENT FROM THE
POWER MAINS. YOU COULD BE ELECTROCUTED!
55. Connect the 75 ohm matching (R) coaxial cable with the
included barrel connector (S) to any length of 50 to 53 ohm
coaxial cable that goes to your transmitter.
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Checkout and Adjustment
Adjustments will have to be made before trying to transmit with this antenna system. Installations
vary considerably and there are no ‘set’ measurements that will work for all the variables in the
installation. The dimensions and coil settings that were used during assembly are somewhat close
and may produce reasonably low VSWR readings over the entire 10, 15, 20 and 30 meter bands and
at least 250 kHz of the 40 meter band. Bandwidth on 80/75 meters should be at least 30 kHz for
VSWR of 2:1 or less at the low end of the band and may be as much as 100 kHz at the high end of
the band, depending on the efficiency of the ground system used, greater bandwidth being
associated with lossy ground systems. It should be remembered that on those bands where the
physical height of a vertical antenna is less than 1/4-wavelength, the earth (or the resonant radial
system in above-ground installations) will have a good deal to do with VSWR and antenna tuning,
bandwidth and overall performance.
Low VSWR by itself does not mean that a vertical antenna is operating efficiently, and if low
VSWR is obtained with no more than the usual quick and dirty ground connection, it most likely
means the opposite. In general, poor operation or improper tuning of vertical antennas can usually
be attributed to inadequate (or even reactive) ground systems or to other vertical conductors in the
vicinity of the antenna. For these reasons it is suggested that the antenna be placed as much in the
clear as possible and used with the best ground system that conditions permit. For a more complete
discussion of the interrelationships between vertical antenna efficiency, bandwidth, VSWR, etc., a
standard text such as the A.R.R.L. Antenna Book is recommended.
For adjustment purposes a simple VSWR indicator may be used. More accurate measurements may
be made at the antenna (i.e., at the junction of the coax 75 ohm matching (R) and the main
transmission line) than at the input end of the line, but the tuning conditions that exist at the
transmitter will usually be of greater interest in that one's principal concern will be to couple power
from the transmitter into the transmission line.
1. Check VSWR on 10 meters. To raise the resonant frequency loosen the small clamp over the
slotted end of tube (I) and slide tube (J) farther into tube (I). To lower the frequency, slide tube
(J) farther out of tube (I) and retighten the small clamp. A length change of 3 inches should
move the VSWR curve approximately 200 kHz.
NOTE: you can measure then adjust 15 and 10 meters at the same time since they don’t
interact like other band adjustment. This may help save some time and effort when tuning.
The 12M coil MUST be compressed as much as possible upon initial tuning. If not, it is
highly probable that 12M will actually be tuned into 10M throwing the ability to tune 10M
at all.
2. Check VSWR on 15 meters. The VSWR curve may be shifted upward or downward by
changing the length of the stranded wire between wire clamp 0.500" 15M with wire (L) and
wire clamp 0.875" 15M with insulator (K).
To raise the frequency, simply shorten the wire by wrapping a longer tail back on itself and
sliding the lower clamp upward to maintain tension. To lower frequency, feed more of the tail
back through the hole in the insulator to increase the length of the wire between wire clamp
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