BYOC Parametric Multi-Band Compressor User manual

Build Your Own Clone
Parametric Multi-Band Compressor
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, INC does not
warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.

Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle
you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches(only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2014 by BYOC, Inc.

Parametric Multi-Band Compressor
Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………….................…....page 6
Populating the Circuit Board…….................…...…..page 8
Main PCB Assembly..................................................page 18
Wiring……………………………….........................page 21
Installing the IC/Finishing up………………….......page 27
Operation Overview...................................................page 28
Schematic....................................................................page 29

This is what your kit should look like when it’s complete. Your kit may come with
different color capacitors, switches ect. Don’t be alarmed by this. They all still do
the exact same thing.

Parts Checklist for Parametric Multi-Band Compressor Kit
Resistors (your kit should come with all or mostly smaller 1/8 watt resistors, but may come
with some ¼watt):
Metal Film Carbon Comp
1 - 470R (471) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Gold/Brown) or (Yellow/Purple/Brown/Gold)
3 - 4k7 (472) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown) or (Yellow/Purple/Red/Gold)
2 - 5k6 (562) (Green/Blue/Black/Brown/Brown) or (Green/Blue/Red/Gold)
11 - 10k (103) (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown) or (Brown/Black/Orange/Gold)
1 - 20k (203) (Red/Black/Black/Red/Brown) or (Red/Black/Orange/Gold)
1 - 22k (223) (Red/Red/Black/Red/Brown) or (Red/Red/Orange/Gold)
6 - 47k (473) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Red/Brown) or (Yellow/Purple/Orange/Gold)
7 - 100k (104) (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown) or (Brown/Black/Yellow/Gold)
4 - 220k (224) (Red/Red/Black/Orange/Brown) or (Red/Red/Yellow/Gold)
3 - 1M (105) (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown) or (Brown/Black/Green/Gold)
2 - 3M9 (395) (Orange/White/Black/Yellow/Brown) or (Orange/White/Green/Gold)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capacitors:
2 – 22n film cap (may say “223” on the body)
6 – 47n film cap (may say “473” on the body)
4 – 220n film cap (may say “224” on the body)
1 – 1uf film cap (may say “105” on the body)
4 – 10uf Aluminum Electrolytic
3 – 33uf Aluminum Electrolytic
1 – 100uf Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.
Diodes:
1-1N4001 diodes
Opto-couplers:
2 – VTL5C2
IC's:
1 - DIP 8 socket
2 – Dip 14 socket
1 – TL072
2 – TL074

Transistors:
4 – 2N3904, 2N5088, 2N2222, or similar
Potentiometers: SNAP OFF THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS OFF
WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. IF#YOUR#POTS#HAVE#COVERS,#REMOVE#
THEM#BEFORE#CONTINUING.#YOU#MIGHT#HAVE#TO#CUT#A#SLIT#IN#THE#COVER#WITH#A#
BLADE#AND#USE#A#SMALL#SCREWDRIVER#TO#GET#LEVERAGE.
2– A100k
2 – C500k
1 – C100k Dual Gang
Hardware:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws (optional)
1 – Parametric Multi-Band Compressor circuit board
1 - 3pdt footswitch
5 - knobs (optional)
1 - AC adaptor jack
1 - ¼”stereo jack
1 - ¼” mono jack
1 - battery snap
1 - LED
4 – rubber bumpers
2 – lock washers (for in and out jacks)
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add all the resistors except for the two 224 resistors highlighted in yellow.
These need to on the bottom side of the PCB. The “103” resistor highlighted in purple
should be a “223” or 22k resistor. This typo will be corrected after Rev1.0. Resistors are
not polarized and can be inserted in either direction. You should lay 1/8 watt resistors
flat on their sides. If your kit came with any ¼watt resistors, you should stand them on
end as shown in the finished pictures on pages 4 & 5.

Step 2: Add the diode. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to
the layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.

Step 3:Add the 8 pin and two 14 pin IC sockets. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET!
NOT THE ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB. The
ICs get inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets soldered. You will
insert the IC into the socket after the entire pedal has been built. See page 27 for
instructions on how to orient and install the ICs.

Step5: Add the transistors. Be sure to match the flat side of the transistor with the flat
side of the transistor on PCB layout.

Step 6: Add the film capacitors. These are non-polarized so they can go in either
direction.

Step 7: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning there
is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in the
square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running along
the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad.

Step 8: Add the opto-couplers.An opto-coupler is made up of a standard
LED and a LDR (light dependent resistor) joined together in a hermetically
sealed capsule. The leads for the LDR stick out of one end, and the leads for
the LED stick out of the other. Your opto-coupler should have a yellow dot
in one corner. To orient your opto-coupler, match the dot on the opto-
coupler with the dot on the opto-coupler printed on the PCB. You can also
orient your opto-coupler by sticking the longer LED lead in the square
solder pad hole.

Step 9: Add the battery snap. Thread the leads into the strain relief holes first through
the bottom side of the PCB. Then insert the leads into their respective solder pad hole on
the top side of the PCB. The red lead goes in the + hole and the black lead goes in the –
hole.

At this point your board should look like the picture below. Keep in mind that there
should be two 220k (224) resistors on the underside of the PCB. The picture also has all
¼watt resistors, so most of them are standing on end.

Step 9: Add wires to the IN, OUT, RING, -, +, (+), and the two Ground êeyelets.
Start by cutting four 2.5” pieces of wire and 4 pieces of 1.5” wire. Strip 1/4” off each end
and tin the ends. Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires.
This keeps the strands from fraying and primes the wire for soldering. Solder one end a
2.5” piece of wire to each of the IN, OUT, and Ground eyelets on the PCB. Load the
wires in from the top and solder on the bottom of the PCB. Do the same with the 1.5”
pieces of wire for the RING, -, +, and (+) eyelets.

Main PCB Assembly
Step 1: Mount the AC adapter jack to the enclosure. Your kit may come
with either an external thread or internal thread. Don’t get confused by this.
They still function exactly the same. You just thread the external nut on the
outside and the internal nut on the inside. The picture below is of an internal
nut jack.

Step 2: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the
five potentiometers and the LED into the bottom side of the PCB. If#your#
pots#have#covers,#remove#them#before#continuing.#You#might#have#
to#cut#a#slit#in#the#cover#with#a#blade#and#use#a#small#screwdriver#to#
get#leverage.DO NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!!
The LED will have one lead that is longer than the other. THIS WILL GO
INTO THE SQUARE SOLDER HOLE.

Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is
in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch
and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled
enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots, toggle switch and LED all
go into their respective holes. Once the PCB assembly is in place, secure it
by screwing on the washers and nuts for the pots. Only tighten them with
your fingers. You do not want them very tight yet. Make sure you’ve
removed the nuts and washers from the pots and that you’ve also snapped
the tabs off the pots as well before installing.
Step 4: Turn the entire pedal over so that the component side of the PCB is
facing up. Lift the PCB up off the pots about 2mm just to make sure that the
back of the PCB does not short out against the pots. Make sure the PCB is
level and symmetrically seated inside the enclosure.
Step 5: Solder the pots, toggle switch and LED. You will be soldering on
the component side (top) of the PCB. After you have soldered them in
place, be sure to tighten up their nuts. TIP: only solder one lug of each
component at first. This will secure everything in place and still allow you
to wiggle things around if you need to adjust the fit of anything. Once you
have everything perfect, go ahead and solder everything else.