Chevrolet MyLink User manual

GEN5DIY.com MyLink Installation Instructions
Written by GearHeadPeter for GEN5DIY.com
May 15, 2014
Disclaimer: Safety First. Ensure the parking brake is set before working on the vehicle as the vehicle will
sometimes be in neutral, and could roll causing damage or injury to others.
Ensure you can open both doors fully to gain access to the panels, electronics, etc...
If you feel you cannot do this install yourself, STOP, and take your vehicle to a professional
to complete the install for you. You are responsible for any installation costs.
This Radio does not meet DOT specifications, and it is for off road
use only.
GEN5DIY.COM and its affiliates will not be held responsible or liable for any damages to
your vehicle, others, or any of your vehicles components or equipment in the process of this
install.
You are acknowledging this Disclaimer and accept full responsibility if you install the radio.
If you need assistance please call 928-854-4884, M-F only from 9 - 5 PM, PST.
Tools needed for MyLink Install:
Plastic trim removal tools (Various sizes if needed)
¼” drive, 6” extension, ¼” flexible extension, and ¼” Swivel Flex socket
7 mm Socket, 6mm socket
T20 Torx bit and driver
T15 Torx bit and driver
Phillips screwdriver & Small flat blade screwdriver
Dremel Tool with cutoff wheel & grinding /sanding disk
Large pliers to seat the T-tap and medium pliers to help push the pins into the connectors or use a pick tool
X acto knife
Pick tool or small jeweler’s flat blade screw driver for unlocking connector locks
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STEPS 1 & 2 – Panels, Glove Box & Center Console removal
Tools required for this step:
Plastic trim removal tools (Various sizes if needed)
¼” drive with 7 mm Socket
T20 Torx bit
Phillips screwdriver
1) Follow the video instructions for removing the passenger kick and side panels or the driver kick and side
panels depending on which side, center console side panels (both sides), passenger door threshold panel, and
glove box.
a) Click on Step 1 - Panels & Glove Box Removal video for in-depth instructions.
b) Side and rear center console panel removal.
2) Automatic Shifter disassembly (If Manual skip to step 3)
a) Tools required for this step:
a.i) Small flat blade screwdriver
a.ii) T-20 Torx drive
a.iii) 7 mm socket & drive
a.iv) Plastic trim removal tool
a.v) Blue painters tape
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b) Click on Step 2 - Center Console Removal video for in-depth instructions.
c) If an automatic depress the brake pedal and put the shifter into “M”. Ensure parking brake is set.
c.i) Using a Small flat blade screwdriver pry out the plastic access panel on the front of the shifter.
c.ii) Using the T-20 Torx driver unscrew the locking screw that holds the knob on the shifter shaft.
d) Pull the automatic shifter control knob off the shaft and set it, the screw and small cover aside.
e) Put a few strips of blue painters tape on either side of the automatic shifter assembly, and across
the front to protect it from being scratched when removing the front Center console trim cover
next.
e.i) The bottom of 12 vdc accessory plug and the Traction/Stability connector get real close to the shifter
cover. If possible try to push the 12 vdc plug and the Traction/Stability connector up about .5” to
clear the shifter cover. There are tabs on each.
e.ii) Make sure the shifter is in “M”, and the automatic shifter control knob is off before trying to take
out the front floor console cover.
f) Using a slim plastic trim removal tool, start by removing the front floor console cover from the back
first moving towards the front, and lift off. Be careful not to scratch the shifter cover as a new one will
cost $125.
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g) If you have the 4-gauge pack disconnect the cable and place the front floor console cover aside. If you
do not have the 4-gauge pack set the front floor console cover aside.
h) Unscrew the four (4) bolts using the 7mm socket & drive holding the white plastic shifter cover to the
center console.
h.i) To release the shifter assembly there are two (2) release points on the shifter towards the back where
it attaches to the center console. See the image of the release points. You might need to use a small
blade screw driver with a long shaft to push in the release points. Start with either the two (2) in the
front or the back. This will take a bit of time so be patient.
h.ii) Lift the shifter frame out of the center console. Disconnect the LED bulb by twisting the bulb
housing to remove it from the shifter assembly.
3) Manual Shifter
a) Remove the manual transmission control lever screws (1)
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b) Firmly pull upward on the knob (2) until it is released from the control assembly.
4) Removing the Center Console
a) For automatics depress the brake and push down on the black stem that the shifter knob came off of, and
push the gear selector into Park.
b) Remove the four (4) Phillips screws (3) that hold the center console to the floor.
c) Disconnect console I/P harness in line connector. This connects the console USB port and 12 vdc
connector to the vehicle. Also see the image below.
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d) With the four screws removed and the harness disconnected you can now take out the center console, but
be careful not to scratch anything. Set the center console upside down on a blanket as you will be
replacing the center console harness with Gen5DIY’s new harness later in the steps.
Step 3 – Radio Removal
Tools required for this step:
Slim Plastic trim removal tool.
6mm socket & driver
1) Click on Step 3 - Radio Removal and Connectors Disconnected video for in-depth instructions.
2) Remove 2 – 6mm bolts that hold the faceplate on where the gauge pack was.
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a) Using a slim trim panel removal tool pry from the top and sides until lose. First, pull face plate out from
the top, and then down to disengage the guidance pins. Pull face plate a few inches away from dash.
b) It is now time to disconnect the face plate Radio/HVAC - A20 connector that is circled in Blue in the
next frame. It is a small white connector. Push the tab down and pull the connector out. The face plate
is now free. Set it aside.
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c) Remove 4 - 6mm bolts that hold the head unit in place. Pull out the head unit, and then tilt it down to
disconnect the head unit harness and its cables.
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d) With the head unit out of the way if you want the door lock/unlock switch to work now would be a good
time to install a T-Tap on Pin 12 Pink/Black (Lock signal), and one on pin 13 Orange/Black (Unlock
signal) of HVAC/Radio connector A20. Run the new wires to your new switch. Don’t forget the new
switch needs a ground to work besides the two signal wires. See the pin out of A20 on next page.
d.i) If you have a 2012 and newer Camaro that already has the door locks in the door panels you can skip
this step.
HVAC/Radio connector A20 pin out
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Step 4 – NAV MyLink Unit only Alteration
Tool Required for this Step:
Dremel Tool with sanding wheel
1) This step is only for those that purchased a MyLink with Navigation. If you purchased a non-NAV MyLink
unit skip this step and go onto Step 5 – Removing the OnStar Module.
2) In order for the NAV MyLink unit to fit the stock radio opening you will have to modify the guide pin
receiver to allow the GPS cable to fit.
3) Click on Step 4 – NAV unit only Alteration video for in-depth instructions.
4) Image of the completed trimming of the altered guide pin receiver.
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Step 5 – Removing OnStar Module
Tools required for this step:
T15 Torx and driver
1) Click on Step 5 – Removing OnStar Module video instructions.
2) The glove box should have already been removed in Step 1. There are 5 – T15 Torx screws holding the
upper glove box trim panel in place. Three are along the front and one each on each side.
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3) After removal the trim panel is still held in place by 2 additional clips towards the engine. Just pull the trim
piece down.
4) The OnStar module is snapped into its bracket. Release the retaining clip and slide it out of the bracket.
5) Help tip from OmniCamaro:
a) When removing the OnStar box behind the glove box: when looking towards the front, look behind and
to the right of the box, you'll see a grey wire holder that is a push-in type holder for the wire bundle. If
you push that through, towards the front of the car, the box, and the wires, will come out much, much
further! You can also use a plastic pry bar to get the pin to pop out.
b) Inserting the three wires will now be easier. Thanks OmniCamaro!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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6) Once the OnStar module is free of its bracket disconnect the 2 white connectors circled in Red, which will
allow you to drop down the module. The smaller 12 pin white connector on the left is X2, and will get three
new wires in Step 6 – Wiring.
7) Disconnect only the Sharkfin GPS cable (Maroon color & closest to the white connectors). This will go to
the GPS splitter later via a cable from GEN5DIY in Step 6 - wiring.
8) Set aside the OnStar (Telematics module) for now.
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Step 6 – Wiring
Tools required for this step:
Self-tapping screws supplied in the kit for the GPS splitter if you purchased a NAV unit.
Video Splitter if you wanted to have the backup camera show in the mirror and new head unit.
Drill and drill bit. Even though the screws are self-tapping it would be much easier to make a pilot hole first.
1) Click on Step 6 – Wiring Instructions video for very in-depth wiring instructions.
2) The next step shows the new splitter cables that GEN5DIY just received, and you will get with your kit.
The splitter wiring colors on the video does not reflect the new cables that GEN5DIY just received.
3) This is for installing the cables on the GPS splitter.
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4) Unlocking connector locks on the OnStar, X2 connector, which is a 12 Pin connector.
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5) This is for installing new pins in the Radio/HVAC A20 connector.
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6) This is for installing the three wires into X2, which is a 12 Pin OnStar connector. Unfortunately the only
way to install these wires is on your back in the passenger foot well as X2 is not long enough. Just take
your time.
7) Dress the cables so that they are all out of the way, and will not get caught when closing the glove box, or
when installing the new head unit. Using 4” Ty-wraps are great for this. Just make sure to cut the excess off
flush so it does not have any sharp edges.
8) The OnStar telematics module should already have its new GPS cable from the splitter, and now it is time to
plug in the white connectors. Make sure you have connected the three wires to connector X2 first.
a) After that is done install the OnStar telematics module back into its bracket.
b) Please ensure that the Bluetooth Antenna shown in Step 5 is still connected if your had one to
begin with. This external antenna is only for the 2010-2011 Camaro. For years 2012 onward the
Bluetooth antenna is internal to the box, but yours could differ. Failure to have it connected will result
in the loss of Voice commands for making calls and controlling the radio when looking up songs on
your USB/IPod device.
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Step 7 - T-Tapping Main head unit harness connector A11 (BA Sound Systems Only)
Tools required for this step:
T-tap supplied in the kit.
Large pliers to seat the T-tap
1) Adding a T-tap to pin 43 (White wire) of connector A11 - Main power harness to the head unit.
a) The other end of Pin 43 will go to the HVAC/Radio connector A20 pin 18.
2) Click on Step 7 – Installing a T-Tap on Main power connector A11 video for in-depth instructions.
3) Connector A11 Pin out
4) Connect the White wire that has the male spade to the T-tap. This white wire is part of the new head unit
harness that was just installed in Step 6. You might want to Ty-wrap the white wire together with all the
other wires for the new connector to keep them from getting caught when the head unit is installed in the
next Step.
Step 7a – Adding Pin 43 to Main head unit harness connector A11 (Non-BA Sound
Systems Only)
1) For those with a Non-BA sound system you will be adding a white wire to pin 43 of the main head unit
harness connector A11. This wire and pin is supplied by GEN5DIY.
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