Craftsman 20930 User manual

Operator’s Manua
VACUUM PUMP/BRAKE BLEED KIT
Mode 20930
CAUTION: Before using this
product, read this manua and
fo ow a its Safety Ru es
and Operating Instructions.
• Safety
• Operation
• Specifications
• Vacuum Systems
• Diagnostics
• Parts and Accessories
• Españo , p. 20
Sears, Roebuck and Co., Hoffman Estates, IL 60179, U.S.A.
www.craftsman.com

CONTENTS
If t is Craftsman product fails due to a defect in material or workmans ip wit in one year from t e date of
purc ase, RETURN IT TO ANY SEARS STORE OR OTHER CRAFTSMAN OUTLET IN THE UNITED STATES FOR FREE
REPLACEMENT.
T is warranty applies for only 90 days from t e date of purc ase if t is product is ever used for commercial
or rental purposes.
T is warranty does not include vacuum pump seals, w ic are expendable parts.
T is warranty gives you specific legal rig ts, and you may also ave ot er rig ts w ic vary from state to
state.
Sears, Roebuck and Co., Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
CRAFTSMAN ONE YEAR FULL WARRANTY
ServiceParts&Accessories...........................................................1
T ePump........................................................................2
T eAutomotiveVacuumSystem .......................................................4
DiagnosingMec anicalEngineConditions.................................................6
PositiveCrankcaseVentilationSystem...................................................8
Ex austGasRecirculation(EGR).......................................................9
SparkDelayValves(SDV)...........................................................13
Electrical/VacuumSolenoid..........................................................14
T ermal-ControlledVacuumSwitc ingValves.............................................14
BrakeBleeding...................................................................16
Spanis Section...................................................................20

1
SERVICE PARTS & ACCESSORIES
06172
14
123
45
8
9
823373
6
7
12
16
17
11
13
10
822391 – Tubing (2 pieces)
822303 – Adapter Kit
822303 – Adapter Kit
822392 – Suction Cup
PUMP SERVICE KITS
822390 – Reservoir Kit
This Kit 04100 823371 823311
1X X X
2X X
3X X
4X X
5X X
6X X
7X X X
8X
9X
10 X
11 X
12 XX
13 XX
14 X
15
16 X
17 X

2
The vacuum pump is an extremely versatile service
tool that can be used to test a variety of automotive
systems and perform a number of useful tasks.
Though the pump has obvious uses for testing
various vacuum motors, control valves and vacuum
sources, its applications don’t end there. Almost
any part or system that requires proper sealing,
pressure or vacuum to operate can be tested with
the vacuum pump. The pump and its accessories
also transfer fluids, help to bleed brakes and aid in
other tasks. The pump also meets diagnostic tool
requirements when such tools are specified for some
state vehicle inspection programs.
This section will describe the pump, give
specifications, tell how to use the pump and
provide some service tips to help you keep your
pump in tip-top shape.
DESCRIPTION
The hand-held vacuum pump is simple, accurate,
easy to use, and has many applications. It consists
of a pump body, moveable handle, vacuum gauge,
vacuum fitting and a safety-capped pressure fitting.
The pump is easily held in your hand, and when the
handle is squeezed, a vacuum is drawn at the
vacuum fitting. If the vacuum fitting of the pump
is connected to a closed container or system, the
gauge will show the vacuum level. If the pressure
fitting is attached to the container or system, a
pressure will be generated but will not show on the
gauge. If it is desired to read the amount of
pressure, a separate pressure gauge is required.
VACUUM RELEASE
The vacuum is released by pulling back on the
Vacuum Release Lever. This action allows air to enter
the system, thus relieving the vacuum. Vacuum will
also be released when the hose is detached from the
vacuum fitting.
SAFETY CAP
The small cap on the pressure fitting is pressed on
with a friction fit. It can be removed with a twisting
pull. The cap is used to prevent any fluids (brake
fluid, gasoline, etc.), which may have accidentally
been pulled into the pump, from squirting into the
user’s eyes. For this reason, the cap should always
be in place when using the pump, except when
attaching a hose to the pressure fitting. The pump
will last for many years when cared for properly.
See PROPER CARE in this section.
SPECIFICATIONS
Maximum Vacuum Approx. 25" Hg
@ Sea Level: (85 kPa)
Stroke Volume: 1 cu. in. (16cc)
Maximum Pressure
(Unassisted): 15 psi (103 kPa)
(Assisted): 30+ psi (207+ kPa)
Gauge Accuracy 3%-2%-3%
(15-20 in Hg): of full range
USING THE PUMP
The vacuum pump is simple to use. In most cases,
the pump is either attached directly to a component,
used in place of a vacuum line or connected into a
vacuum circuit with a tee connector. The pump can
be operated as a test instrument in three ways:
1) When vacuum is desired for a test, the movable
handle of the pump is simply squeezed with your
hand, as in clenching your fist. Continue strokes
until desired vacuum is indicated on the gauge.
2) The pump can be connected into a vacuum circuit
and used to measure existing amounts of vacuum,
just as any vacuum gauge would be used. When
used this way, do not pump the handle, or incorrect
readings may result.
THE PUMP

THE PUMP
3
3) The pump can also be used as a pressure pump
by removing the safety cap and connecting to the
pressure fitting. When the pump handle is released
from the closed position, pressure is created.
Additional pressure can be applied by manually
pushing in the piston pump rod.
CAUTION: Always be sure the safety cap is in place
unless the pressure fitting is being used. Other
sections of this manual outline specific uses for
the pump.
PROPER CARE
Your pump is a sturdily built, precision test
instrument. Do handle it carefully!
Don’t drop or handle roughly as the gauge accuracy
may be affected. Care for your pump and it will
give you years of trouble-free service.
LUBRICATION
The factory-installed lubricant is silicone oil and
should provide very long service. If you find it
necessary to lubricate your pump, use silicone oil.
If unavailable, you may use DOT 5 (not DOT 3)
silicone-based brake fluid or a salad vegetable oil.
Do not use petroleum based fluids or spray
lubricants (WD-40, motor oil, etc.), as these will
damage the pump.

This manual deals with vacuum, how it is used in
various automotive systems and how the vacuum
pump can be used to test and diagnose these
systems. This section discusses what vacuum is,
how it is measured, where it comes from on an
automobile, the system for distributing and using
vacuum, and some troubleshooting basics.
WHAT IS VACUUM?
Put simply, vacuum is empty space, and may exist
as either a total or partial vacuum. Vacuum does
not, of itself, create power. Rather, power for
vacuum devices depends on the presence of
atmospheric pressure. The atmosphere exerts a
pressure of 14.7 pounds per square inch (psi) on
everything at sea level. If a portion of the air is
removed from one side of a diaphragm (partial
vacuum), the atmospheric pressure will exert a
force on the diaphragm. The force is equal to the
pressure difference times the diaphragm area
(FIGURE 1). Generally, the less air (greater vacuum)
in a given space, the more the atmosphere tries to
get in and the more force is created.
HOW IS VACUUM MEASURED?
In the United States, vacuum is commonly measured
in inches of Mercury (" Hg). It may also be
measured in centimeters of Mercury (cm Hg) and
kiloPascals (kPa). Atmospheric pressure will support
a column of Mercury in a manometer gauge about
30 inches high or about 76 cm high. This is the
barometric pressure in " Hg which varies as the
weather changes. Vacuum readings in " Hg are
really negative pressure readings. For example,
30" Hg vacuum would be a complete vacuum. Half
of a complete vacuum would be 15" Hg. A gasoline
engine at idle usually pulls about 16-22" Hg
vacuum. On deceleration, because the throttle is
closed, the vacuum will increase. The pump will pull
about 25" Hg as indicated on its vacuum gauge
which is calibrated in both " Hg and kPa.
WHY ENGINES CREATE VACUUM
Vacuum is created when air is withdrawn from
a given volume, or a sealed volume is increased.
That is why vacuum is available in an engine.
On the intake stroke, the piston moves down, this
creates a partial vacuum because the volume of the
cylinder is increased. Air cannot rush through the
intake system fast enough to totally fill the space
created when the piston moves down (FIGURE 2).
This is the most common automotive vacuum
supply source.
GASOLINE VS. DIESEL VACUUM
Because a diesel engine does not produce as much
vacuum as a gasoline engine, a mechanical vacuum
pump must be employed to operate vacuum
devices. The pump is useful in testing devices
on both types of engines.
THE AUTOMOTIVE VACUUM SYSTEM
FIGURE 1:
VACUUM VS. ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
14.7 - 10.7 = 4 PSI
40 Pounds
14.7 PSI
10.7 PSI
Piston area 10 sq. in.
FIGURE 2: THE ENGINE AS A VACUUM SOURCE
Vacuum
Air
Vacuum Port
Intake Stroke
4

VACUUM DISTRIBUTION
All modern automobiles have a vacuum distribution
system (FIGURE 3), consisting of lines, hoses,
fittings and vacuum devices. This system must be
leak proof. If it is not, the engine air/fuel mixture
will be leaned out by the extra air entering the
system through the leaks, thus causing problems
such as burned exhaust valves, uneven idle, stalling,
pre-ignition, burned spark plugs, etc. Additionally,
any vacuum operated device affected by the
vacuum leak will not function properly.
A normal gasoline engine should develop 16-22" Hg
of intake manifold vacuum at idle. This is an
indication that the engine is breathing properly.
If the vacuum is lower, the engine is running less
efficiently. The lower the manifold vacuum, the less
efficiently the engine is running and the lower the
gas mileage will be.
The vacuum distribution system supplies vacuum
to vacuum motors (servos) in the air conditioning,
power brake booster, speed control servo, emission
controls, manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor,
and automatic transmission control systems. In older
vehicles, vacuum is also supplied to the distributor
vacuum advance or retard mechanism. These
devices can be connected directly to manifold
vacuum, or can be controlled through electric
solenoids, thermostatic switches, or other
vacuum controls.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE VACUUM SYSTEM
Most vacuum problems can be traced to leaks, which
occur in hoses, connectors, motor diaphragms or
valves. Pinched lines or clogged valves will also not
allow vacuum flow. Problems can also be traced to
improper mechanical operation of devices driven by
vacuum motors.
The vacuum pump can be used to measure the
amount of vacuum in a hose. The vacuum gauge
feature is very useful for detecting a fluctuating
vacuum supply or a leaky hose. The vacuum pump
feature enables you to check all types of vacuum
operated devices.
On a vacuum motor, for example, the pump is used
to evacuate the diaphragm chamber, which allows
you to check the mechanical operation of the device
as well as the amount of vacuum required to
actuate it. Test for a leaking diaphragm by applying
10" Hg vacuum to the device (FIGURE 4). Observe
the gauge to see if the needle drops after the
actuator stops moving. If the needle continues
to drop, a leaking diaphragm is indicated. If the
diaphragm is okay, the vacuum should hold for
one minute with the needle steady.
THE AUTOMOTIVE VACUUM SYSTEM
FIGURE 3: TYPICAL VACUUM DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM
To Intake Manifold
To A/C
Heater
PRNDL Switch
Brake
Release Motor
Distributor
Advance
Power Brake
Booster
Intake Air Motor
To Speed
Control
Auto
Trans
VACUUM DISTRIBUTION BLOCK
5

DIAGNOSING MECHANICAL ENGINE CONDITIONS
6
THE AUTOMOTIVE VACUUM SYSTEM
FIGURE 4: TYPICAL CARBURETOR VACUUM SUPPLY POINTS
Carburetor or Throttle Body
EGR Vacuum
• Zero at closed throttle
• Still zero when “S” vacuum is on
• Equal to manifold at greater
throttle opening
Venturi Vacuum
• Weak or zero at cruise or idle
• Strong at wide open throttle
Position when “S” and “E”
vacuum are “on”
Throttle plate (closed position)
Manifold Vacuum
• Available with engine running
• Strongest at closed throttle
• Gradually weakens as throttle opens
• But stays strong if the choke is closed
Spark Port Vacuum
• No vacuum at
closed throttle
• Equal to manifold vacuum off idle
• Originally used to control “spark” vacuum
to distributor advance diaphragm
VACUUM GAUGE CHECKS DIAGNOSIS
The pump’s vacuum gauge readings give indications
of possible mechanical problems, but they are not
foolproof. Observe the gauge carefully and follow
the vacuum readings with further tests, where
possible, to confirm your diagnosis.
Do not look for the engine to produce specific
(numerical) amounts of vacuum. Much more
important than specific numbers, are the range
of the vacuum readings and the movement of the
needle (FIGURE 5). Important things to notice about
the needle movement are HOW the needle moves
(in a smooth or jerky manner, erratic, etc.), what
direction it moves, whether movement is regular or
varying, and how far the needle moves.
The following gives some examples of what to
look for and the meanings of a variety of vacuum
gauge readings.
NORMAL ENGINE
Run engine at idle and connect the pump to an
intake manifold vacuum port. Watch the needle’s
movement on the gauge. At idle, the vacuum gauge
reading should be 16-22" Hg and steady.
BURNED OR LEAKING VALVE
At idle, burned or leaking valves will cause the
pointer on the gauge to drop to a low reading and
return to normal at a regular interval. The needle
will drop from 1 to 7" Hg at regular intervals
whenever the defective valve attempts to close.
STICKING VALVE
A sticking valve will exhibit a rapid, intermittent
drop from the normal pointer indication. This is
unlike the regular drop that characterizes a
burned or leaking valve.
A sticking valve condition may be pin-pointed by
directly applying lightweight oil to each valve guide.
When the sticking valve is reached, the situation will
be temporarily remedied.
WEAK OR BROKEN VALVE SPRING
Weak valve springs are indicated when the pointer
of the vacuum pump gauge fluctuates rapidly
between 10" and 21" Hg at idle. The fluctuations
will increase with engine speed. A broken valve
spring will cause the needle to fluctuate rapidly
at a regular interval. Again, this will occur every
time the valve attempts to close.
WORN VALVE GUIDES
Worn valve guides admit air which upsets the
air/fuel mixture. The vacuum gauge reading will
be lower than normal and will fluctuate rapidly
in a range of about 3" Hg. As the speed of the
engine is increased, the needle will steady.

LEAKING PISTON RING
Vacuum at idle will be low but steady at about 12 to
16" Hg. Open the throttle and allow the engine to
pick up speed to about 2000 RPM, and then close
the throttle quickly. The pointer should jump 2 to 5"
Hg above its low steady reading. A lesser gain may
indicate faulty rings, and a complete cylinder
leakage or compression test should be done.
BLOWN CYLINDER HEAD GASKET
At idle, the vacuum pump gauge pointer will
fluctuate between normal and a low reading.
The needle will drop sharply about 10" Hg from
a normal reading and return each time the defective
cylinder or cylinders reach firing position.
EXHAUST RESTRICTION TEST
An exhaust restriction will cause normal or near nor-
mal performance at engine idle, but cause very poor
engine performance under load or at higher speeds.
1) Connect the pump hose to an intake manifold
vacuum fitting. Operate the engine at idle and
note the vacuum reading and needle movement.
Compare readings and movements against
descriptions listed for burned valves and late
ignition or valve timing.
2) Watch the vacuum gauge as engine speed is
increased to approximately 2500 RPM.
3) An increase in vacuum over that obtained at idle
indicates an exhaust system that is free of restrictions.
4) If the needle drops toward zero as engine RPM
is increased, either an exhaust restriction or an
over-active Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
is causing the problem.
5) Test the EGR valve separately. If it is found to
be in good condition, the problem is a restricted
exhaust. Check and replace if necessary.
INCORRECT IDLE AIR/FUEL MIXTURE
If the gauge needle drifts slowly back and forth at
idle, over a range of 4 to 5" Hg, the fuel mixture is
too rich. A lean mixture will cause an irregular drop
of the needle over about the same range.
INTAKE MANIFOLD OR AIR INDUCTION
LEAKS
If there are any air leaks in the air induction
system, the gauge needle will be about 3 to 9" Hg
below normal, but will remain steady.
LATE IGNITION OR VALVE TIMING
An extremely low but steady reading at idle
indicates late ignition or valve timing, or a
uniformly close setting of the valve lash.
Perform separate tests to determine which
of these problems, if any, have affected
the engine.
7
DIAGNOSING MECHANICAL ENGINE CONDITIONS
FIGURE 5: VACUUM GAUGE READINGS
With motor at idle speed,
vacuum pointer should hold
steady between 16 and 22.
With motor at idle speed,
dropping back of vacuum
pointer indicates sticky
valves.
With motor at idle speed,
floating motion right and
left of vacuum pointer
indicates carburetor too rich
or too lean.
With motor at idle speed, low
reading of vacuum pointer
indicates late ignition timing
or intake manifold air leak.

SYSTEM OPERATION
The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system is
used on all modern engines to reduce air pollution
by providing a more complete scavenging of
crankcase vapors. Air is drawn through a filter
located in the air cleaner, through a hose in the
valve cover, into the crankcase, across and up into
the rear of the intake manifold or opposite valve
cover, through the PCV valve, through a hose, into
the intake manifold. Intake manifold vacuum draws
in all vapors from the crankcase to be burned in
the engine
When air flow through the carburetor or throttle
body is high, added air from the PCV system has
no effect on engine operation. However, at idle, air
flow through the carburetor or throttle body is so
low that any large amount added by the ventilation
system would upset the air/fuel mixture, causing a
rough idle. For this reason, the PCV valve restricts
the ventilation system flow when intake manifold
vacuum is high.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
After a period of operation, the PCV valve may
become clogged and reduce the amount of
crankcase ventilation. The PCV valve should be
replaced periodically to prevent the formation of
acids in the crankcase, and the build up of excessive
crankcase pressure, which could force engine oil out
past the seals. Use the following procedure to check
the PCV system using your pump:
1) Inspect the system for kinked, plugged or
deteriorated hoses. Check to be sure all hoses
are connected properly. Repair as necessary.
2) Connect your pump to an intake manifold port
and check the vacuum reading of the warmed and
idling engine.
3) Clamp off the vacuum hose to the PCV valve.
The engine speed should decrease 100 RPM to
indicate the loss of the calibrated air leak into
the intake manifold. The vacuum gauge reading
should increase slightly, indicating that the vacuum
leak has been plugged. If this does not happen,
replace the PCV valve and/or replace any damaged,
plugged or loose hoses.
4) If the engine is idling too slow or is rough, this
may be caused by a clogged PCV valve or hose.
Do not adjust the idle speed without first checking
the PCV system.
5) After installing a new PCV valve, always adjust
the idle speed, and if possible, the idle air mixture.
The installation of the wrong valve may cause too
much vapor to flow through the system if the
calibrated bleed is too large. This will lean out the
air/fuel mixture excessively. If the opening is too
small, the plugging effect will be nullified, emissions
will increase, acids will form and oil leaks may
develop. Be sure you get the correct PCV valve
for your car.
8
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

An Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is used
on most modern engines to reduce Oxides of
Nitrogen (NOx) emissions. During the combustion
process, nitrogen, which makes up 80 percent of
the air, will mix with oxygen at temperatures
above 2,500°F. During the combustion process,
temperatures in the cylinders go well above
3,500°F providing the ideal conditions for the
formation of NOx.
SYSTEM OPERATION
To reduce the formation of NOx, it is necessary to
lower the combustion temperature. This is most
often done by introducing exhaust gases back into
the combustion chamber through the use of an
EGR valve. The EGR valve (FIGURE 6) may be
operated by ported vacuum from above the
throttle plates, or by a sophisticated control
system that modulates the amount of EGR
depending on the temperature of the coolant,
ambient air temperature, engine speed or load.
An EGR valve that does not have a sophisticated
control system must be fully closed with a vacuum
of less than 2" Hg and begin to open with 2 to 8.5"
Hg of vacuum. At idle and wide-open throttle, the
ported vacuum supply is low and the valve should
be closed.
Some cars have a Back-Pressure Transducer Valve
(BPV) to modulate the operation of the EGR system.
Some cars have a Venturi Vacuum Amplifier (VVA)
to do the same job. The effect is to modulate the
amount of EGR according to the load on the engine.
To improve cold drivability, most cars are equipped
with some type of vacuum control device to shut off
EGR while the engine is cold.
EGR systems fail in two ways. Either the valve may
fail due to a fault of its own, such as a ruptured
diaphragm, or due to a loss of control vacuum.
Always check whether there is vacuum at the hose
connected to the EGR valve, before replacing the
valve. Connect the pump to the vacuum supply hose
at the EGR valve and check whether at 2000 RPM
there is at least 4 to 5" Hg vacuum available.
Remember also that clogged exhaust passages that
lead to or from the valve can restrict the flow even
if the valve is opening.
An EGR valve that remains open will cause the
engine to idle roughly, die at idle, and lose power
and full-throttle smoothness. Dirt or damage in the
valve seat area usually cause the valve to fail. An
EGR valve can operate normally with the engine
warm but remain open when the engine is cold.
That condition could be caused by a faulty thermal
switching device that does not cut off the vacuum
supply when the engine is cold.
9
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION EGR)
FIGURE 6: EGR VALVE OPERATION
To Vacuum Source To Vacuum Source
Vacuum Signal Applied
Valve open, exhaust admitted to intake manifold
No Vacuum Signal
Valve closed, exhaust blocked

EGR SERVICE PROCEDURES/GENERAL TEST
EXCEPT GM OR BACKPRESSURE
CONTROLLED TYPE
If the symptoms of an engine lead you to believe
that an EGR valve is staying open, follow this
procedure:
1) Connect a tachometer to the engine and run
the engine at idle speed until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Use the pump to check for
at least 10" Hg vacuum at the valve. Replace the
hose and note the engine RPM.
2) Remove the vacuum hose from the valve and
notice whether engine RPM increases.
3) If engine speed does increase, there may be
some type of problem in the vacuum control
circuit. Check the routing of all vacuum hoses.
4) If engine speed or the quality of idle changes,
remove the valve and check the pintle and valve
seat to make sure both are clean. If they are not,
replace the valve, gasket and adapter if it is burned,
warped or damaged.
If the engine symptoms lead you to believe that
the EGR valve is staying closed, follow the
procedure below:
1) Operate the engine at idle until it reaches full
operating temperature. Use the pump to check for
the presence of 10" Hg vacuum at the valve. Set the
engine speed at approximately 2000 RPM. Plug the
vacuum supply hose. Connect the vacuum pump to
the EGR valve and apply 10 to 15" Hg vacuum.
2) The diaphragm should move to the open position
and a decrease in engine RPM should be noted. If
not, the valve is defective or the manifold passages
are plugged. Release the vacuum on the EGR valve.
3) The diaphragm should move to the closed
position and an increase in engine RPM should be
noted. Return the engine to idle and turn it off.
4) Connect the pump to the EGR valve and test by
applying at least 9" Hg of vacuum to the diaphragm
and watch the gauge carefully for any vacuum loss.
5) If the valve diaphragm does not move, or cannot
hold vacuum, replace the EGR valve.
GM EGR VALVES
General Motors produces three types of EGR valves.
Each valve can be identified by the design of its
diaphragm plate (FIGURE 7). The first valve is a
ported vacuum EGR that has only a circular rib on
the back of its diaphragm plate. The second is a
positive backpressure valve with X-shaped ribs that
are raised only slightly above the plate. Finally,
there is a negative back-pressure valve with
X-shaped ribs raised well above the diaphragm
plate. Both the ported vacuum and negative
back-pressure valves are tested the same way.
A separate test is listed to check the positive
back-pressure valve.
GM PORTED VACUUM AND NEGATIVE
BACK-PRESSURE EGR TEST
1) Make sure all vacuum hoses are routed
according to the emission control label.
10
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION EGR)
FIGURE 7: GM EGR DIAPHRAGMS
Ported Vacuum Positive Backpressure Negative Backpressure

2) Check the vacuum connection to the EGR valve
for obstructions.
3) Connect the pump between the EGR valve and
the carburetor or vacuum source. Start the engine
and run it at idle until it reaches operating
temperature (195°F approx.). Check for vacuum
at 3000 RPM; it should be 5" Hg minimum.
4) If no vacuum is available in step 3, check for it
between the EGR thermal vacuum switch (TVS) and
the carburetor. If the vacuum is available there,
replace the TVS.
5) If the vacuum supply between the EGR and the
carburetor is adequate, connect the pump to the
EGR valve inlet. Depress the valve diaphragm and
apply approximately 10" Hg vacuum to the EGR.
Release the diaphragm and record the time it takes
for the diaphragm to return to its seated position.
6) If it takes less than 20 seconds for the valve to
seat, replace the valve.
GM POSITIVE BACKPRESSURE EGR TEST
1) Follow steps 1 through 4 of the ported vacuum
and negative back-pressure EGR test.
2) Remove the EGR valve from the engine.
Connect the pump to the EGR vacuum inlet and
apply 10" Hg of vacuum. The valve should not
open. If it does, replace the valve.
3) Continue the test by keeping the vacuum applied
and shooting a low-pressure stream of air into the
valve’s exhaust inlet. The valve should now open.
If it does not, replace the valve.
11
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION EGR)
FIGURE 8: CHRYSLER VENTURI VACUUM-CONTROL EGR SYSTEM
To Starter Relay
Manifold Vacuum
To Ignition
Vacuum Amplifier
EGR Delay
Solenoid
EGR Valve
EGR Delay
Timer
CCEGR Temperature Valve
Coolant Control Engine Vacuum Switch

EGR VENTURI VACUUM AMPLIFIER
Some engines utilize a Venturi Vacuum Amplifier
that uses the weak vacuum signal from the throat of
the carburetor to allow the passage of the stronger
intake manifold vacuum to operate the EGR valve.
On most applications the amplifier provides a 2" Hg
boost to the Venturi signal (FIGURE 8).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1) Start the engine, and run it at idle until it reaches
normal operating temperature.
2) Make sure the intake manifold hose to the
amplifier is properly connected. On those systems
with a reservoir, remove the hose from the reservoir
and use a tee connector to join the hose to the
intake manifold vacuum hose.
3) With separate lengths of hose and different
connectors, bypass any and all vacuum valves or
coolant controlled valves between the amplifier
and the EGR valve.
4) Use a tee connector to attach the pump into the
vacuum line between the amplifier and EGR valve.
5) Increase engine speed to 1500 to 2000 RPM
and release the throttle. Let the engine return to
idle speed and remove the vacuum hose at the
carburetor venturi. The vacuum reading should be
within ± 0.3" Hg of the specified boost for that
amplifier if other than zero boost is specified.
Zero boost may read from 0 to .5" Hg. Replace
amplifier if it is out of specification.
6) Increase engine speed. Watching the vacuum
gauge, release the accelerator after a speed of
1500 to 2000 RPM is reached. If the vacuum gauge
reading shows an increase greater than 1" Hg
during acceleration period, the amplifier should
be replaced.
7) Remove the pump from the output vacuum line
and reconnect the hoses, but still bypass other
valves. Connect the pump and apply 2 to 4" Hg of
vacuum to port on the amplifier which is normally
connected to intake manifold vacuum. The EGR
valve should operate and engine idle should drop or
become erratic. If the EGR valve fails to move,
replace the amplifier.
BACK-PRESSURE TRANSDUCER VALVE
(BPV) OPERATION
The Back-pressure Transducer Valve (BPV) controls
the amount of EGR according to the load on the
engine. An exhaust pressure probe extends into
the exhaust crossover passageway to sample the
exhaust gas pressure. During light engine loads,
the pressure in the exhaust passageway is relatively
low, while during wide-open throttle operation
(WOT), the pressure is highest. This pressure signal
is transmitted to a diaphragm in the BPV and is used
to control the amount of vacuum applied to the EGR
valve (FIGURE 9).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1) Remove the air cleaner and plug the intake
manifold fitting. Start the engine and bring it to
normal operating temperature. Position the fast-idle
cam follower on the second step of the fast-idle cam
(to obtain about 1500 RPM), and then note engine
speed on a tachometer. Use the pump to check the
source vacuum at an intake manifold port (FIGURE
10). Note this reading.
2) Tee your pump into the vacuum passageway to
the BPV and the reading should be 1 to 2" Hg of vac-
uum. Replace the BPV if it is not within specifications.
3) Leave the vacuum gauge at this location, remove
the hose to the EGR valve, and plug the hose open-
ing. Read the vacuum pump gauge, which should be
the same as the intake manifold vacuum reading. If
it is not within 2" Hg of the source vacuum, replace
the BPV valve.
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION EGR)
FIGURE 9:
EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE TRANSDUCER VALVE
To Distributor
Spark–
EGR Thermal
Vacuum Valve
Exposed to Exhaust Gas Pressure
To EGR
Valve
12

OPERATION
Spark Delay Valves (SDV) are used to delay vacuum
to the distributor vacuum advance actuator during
hard acceleration, to delay the action of the
Thermactor Air Induction Reaction (AIR) system
during prolonged engine idling, and to delay the
application of vacuum to the automatic choke
pulldown diaphragm during cold engine operation.
A sintered metal valve is installed in the vacuum
advance (outer) diaphragm of the distributor control
unit on some engines. The purpose of the valve is to
delay the spark advance during rapid acceleration
to minimize the formation of NOx. The sintered
metal is porous and allows vacuum to bleed through
the valve acting like an orifice of about 0.002" in
diameter. Control is obtained by varying the number
of discs in each valve assembly so that the time
delay features can be tailored to the engine
(FIGURE 11).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
The time delay of the valve varies with engine
application. The different valves may be identified by
color and part number. Spark delay valves cannot be
repaired and must be replaced every 12,000 miles
because the pores of the sintered metal fill with dust,
which can slow the performance of the valve. NOTE:
The spark delay valve is a one-way unit that must be
installed with the Black side facing the carburetor
vacuum port.
To determine if a spark delay valve is operating
correctly, the following service procedure should
be used:
1) With the transmission in neutral, set the carburetor
to the fast-idle position, remove the spark-delay valve
and tee your vacuum pump into the hose leading to
the carburetor spark port.
2) Record the vacuum reading, which should be
between 10 to 16" Hg.
3) Pinch off the vacuum hose and observe if the
gauge maintains the vacuum level. If the gauge
shows that the vacuum drops with the hose pinched
off, the gauge or vacuum hose has an external
leak, which must be corrected.
4) Now, connect the black side of the spark-delay
valve to the vacuum hose leading to the carburetor
spark port. Connect a section of vacuum hose to
your vacuum pump and attach the other end to the
distributor end of the spark delay valve. Observe
the time in seconds for the gauge to reach 6" Hg,
with a 10 to 16" Hg vacuum source. If the vacuum
reaches the 6" Hg level in less than two seconds,
regardless of type, the SDV should be replaced.
When checking the valve, care must be taken to
prevent oil or dirt from getting into the valve as
this will impair its function.
13
SPARK DELAY VALVES SDV)
FIGURE 10: TEST THE VACUUM SOURCE FOR
THE BPV WITH YOUR PUMP
Attach the Pump Here
Transducer
Exhaust Gas Inlet
ERG
Valve
FIGURE 11: TYPICAL SPARK DELAY VALVE
Spark
Delay
Valve

THERMAL-CONTROLLED VACUUM-SWITCHING VALVES
SERVICE PROCEDURES
1) Disconnect vacuum and electrical connectors from
the solenoid. Connect the pump to port “B” and
attempt to apply vacuum with pump. Vacuum
should be released through port “A” (FIGURE 12).
2) Using jumper wires, connect negative solenoid
terminal to ground and apply 12 volts to the
positive terminal. Apply vacuum to port “B”.
Vacuum should hold and not bleed off. If the
solenoid does not hold vacuum, replace solenoid.
3) With solenoid still energized, move vacuum
pump to port “A”. Attempt to apply vacuum.
Vacuum should be released through the air filter
and no vacuum should be present at port “B”.
Service Procedures
These control valves are called Ported Vacuum
Switches (PVS) when used on Ford engines. Thermal
Ignition Control (TIC) valves when used on Chrysler
products, and Distributor Thermal Vacuum-Switches
(DTVS) when used on General Motors engines.
The two-port valve is used to stop EGR while the
engine is cold. This type of thermal switch is needed
to provide good drivability by limiting the entrance
of EGR until the engine is warmed up.
The three-port valve is commonly called a cooling
system PVS because it switches the vacuum source to
the distributor from ported to full intake vacuum.
The four-port valve has been used in some Ford
engines to bypass the spark delay valve and cut
out the EGR system when the engine is cold.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Follow this procedure to test the two-port
vacuum-switching valve:
1) Apply 10" Hg of vacuum to the bottom port of
the valve with your vacuum pump and measure the
results with a second vacuum gauge as shown in the
accompanying illustration (FIGURE 13).
2) The valves are color-coded and the green valve
should open and pass vacuum at 68°F, the black
valve at 100°F.
14
ELECTRICAL /VACUUM SOLENOID
FIGURE 12: TYPICAL VACUUM SOLENOID
Air Filter
Port “A”
Positive Terminal
Port “B”
FIGURE 13: TESTING THE TWO-PORT PVS
1) Remove both hoses
from valve
Color code
2) Connect a vacuum gauge
to one port and a remote
vacuum supply to the other
4) Operate the engine
until the coolant warms
above the valve setting (see table)
3) Apply 10 inches
vacuum to the valve
5) See if there is a
vacuum reading on
this gauge
Color Coolant Above
Code Temperature
Green 68°F
Black 100°F
Plain or Blue 133°F
RESULTS:
No Vacuum Replace the PVS valve
Vacuum PVS valve is open
Vacuum when Replace the
coolant is cold PVS valve

3) If full vacuum flows through the valve when
heated, it is okay. If there is no vacuum flow or
there is vacuum flow when the coolant is cold,
replace the valve.
Follow this procedure to test the three-port
vacuum-switching valve:
1) Apply 10" Hg of vacuum with your vacuum pump
to the middle port of the valve with a vacuum
gauge at each of the other two ports.
2) Refer to the same color-coded valves and same
temperature specifications as for the two-port valve
above. If the vacuum switches at the specified
temperature, the valve is okay. If there is no
vacuum to the lower port above the specified
temperature, replace the valve.
The four-port valve must be tested two times, once
at the top two ports and once at the bottom two
ports as shown in the accompanying illustration
(FIGURE 14).
1) Apply 10" Hg of vacuum with your vacuum pump
to one of the top two ports. The valve should hold
vacuum when above the specified operating
temperature.
2) If flow occurs when the valve is warm, replace it.
3) For the lower two ports, vacuum must pass
through the valve only when the engine is warm;
otherwise, replace the valve.
15
THERMAL-CONTROLLED VACUUM-SWITCHING VALVES
FIGURE 14: TESTING THE FOUR-PORT PVS
RESULTS:
Vacuum when warm Lower valve okay
No vacuum when warm Replace PVS
RESULTS:
No vacuum when warm Upper valve okay
Vacuum when warm Replace PVS
1) Apply 10" vacuum
(cold engine)
4) When engine is
warm (coolant
above 125°F)
2) Gauge will read 10"
3) Gauge will
read zero
Vacuum Gauge
2) Apply 10" vacuum
When engine is cold,
vacuum reading
should be zero
1) Warm engine
(above 125°F)
3) Gauge must read
source vacuum
4-PORT PVS TEST
UPPER VALVE FLOW
LOWER VALVE FLOW

Many brake systems today feature Anti-Lock
functions and electronic controls. Many of these
systems use a high pressure electric pump to keep
the system pressurized. When bleeding or servicing,
these systems require special procedures and
cautions.
• ALWAYS observe the following precautions when
servicing Anti-Lock brake system:
• ALWAYS wear safety goggles when servicing high
pressure brake systems.
• ALWAYS depressurize the ABS system prior to
adding fluid or attempting service or repair.
• Unless instructed to by the manufacturer’s
procedure, NEVER open a bleeder valve or
loosen a hydraulic line while the ABS system
is pressurized.
• ONLY use recommended brake fluids. DO NOT use
silicone brake fluid in ABS equipped vehicles.
• Always refer to an appropriate repair manual for
additional information on Anti-Lock brake systems.
DEPRESSURIZING ANTI-LOCK
BRAKE SYSTEMS
Always refer to the vehicle owner’s manual or
appropriate service manual for additional
information on depressurizing procedure.
The procedure will work on most Anti-Lock brake
systems. Ensure ignition switch is in the OFF
position or disconnect the negative battery cable.
Pump the brake pedal 25 to 40 times. A noticeable
change is felt. Continue to pump the pedal a few
additional times. This should eliminate most system
pressure. Open fluid reservoir or brake lines
carefully. Top off reservoir fluid and reconnect
battery cable when finished.
BLEEDING ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEMS
Always refer to the vehicle owner’s manual or
appropriate service manual for manufacturer’s
brake bleeding procedure. The front brakes on
most Anti-Lock brake systems may be bled in the
conventional manner. Most hydraulic pump/pressure
accumulator units are fitted with a bleeder valve
which must be bled when the system has lost fluid or
is being replaced. Some vehicles require that the sys-
tem be pressurized when the rear brakes are bled.
Some automotive manufacturers use bleeding
procedures which require specialized equipment.
BRAKE LINE BLEEDING
Most low and soft pedal problems are caused by air
in the hydraulic lines, which requires bleeding of the
hydraulic system. By using the pump with brake
bleeding accessories, the system can be bled easily.
Follow a wheel-to-wheel sequence beginning with the
wheel closest to the master cylinder.
The kit provides a simple, clean, and quick method
for bleeding the fluid lines in the automotive brake
system. The creation of a vacuum in the reservoir
jar causes fluid to be drawn into the reservoir jar.
It should be noted that a tiny stream of bubbles
may be noticed in the hose after all of the air is bled
from the lines. This is caused by air seeping around
the threads of the loosened bleeder fitting and
being drawn back through the fitting by the suction
of the pump. Once the air is removed from within
the system, these tiny bubbles will in no way
jeopardize the bleeding operation, since they are
present only at the fitting and do not enter the
system. If you wish, you can put grease or Teflon
tape around the threads of the fitting to eliminate
most of the bubbles. The correct bleeding procedure
follows:
1) Always make certain that the master cylinder
reservoir is filled and that a supply of new, clean
brake fluid of the proper type is on hand to top off
the reservoir as the fluid level drops during bleeding.
Make sure that all the bleeding fittings are clean prior
to beginning of the bleeding procedure.
2) Bleed the hydraulic system in the following order:
A) Master cylinder bleeder fittings, if equipped.
If installing a new or rebuilt master cylinder,
follow the bench bleeding procedure which follows.
16
BRAKE BLEEDING

B) Bleeder fittings on the combination valve,
if equipped.
C) Wheel cylinders and calipers in succession
beginning with the wheel closest to the master
cylinder, and working to the farthest one.
NOTE: Follow manufacturer’s recommended bleeding
sequence (if known). The procedure given in this
article specifies to begin bleeding the wheel closest to
master cylinder. Regardless of sequence used, always
ensure all air is purged from system.
3) Slip 11⁄2" of tubing between the pump and the lid
of reservoir jar at port marked “TO PUMP”
(FIGURE 15).
4) Attach 31⁄2" plastic hose to the bottom of the cap.
5) Affix at least a 12" piece of tubing to the other
reservoir jar port. Be certain that the cover of the
reservoir jar is secure, but don’t over tighten.
6) Select the appropriate adapter(s). The L-shaped
universal adapters should fit snugly over the brake
bleeding fitting in order to seal properly. The
tapered adapters fit inside the thru-hole of fitting
and will generally seal well when inserted tightly
with a pressing and twisting motion. Attach adapter
to reservoir hose.
7) Place wrench on brake bleeding fitting.
Attach adapter and pump assembly, and pump
10 to 15 times.
NOTE: If bubbles coming out of the fitting are very
small and even in size, the air is probably coming
from within the system. It is not necessary to
eliminate these bubbles as they do not affect brake
operation. If desired, these bubbles can generally be
eliminated by placing grease or Teflon tape around
the threads, to act as a seal.
8) Open fitting slightly, only enough to cause the
fluid to enter jar, usually 1⁄4to 1⁄2turn.
9) After evacuating about 2" of fluid into the jar,
close the fitting and refill the master cylinder.
Repeat all previous steps on all remaining wheels.
If fluid is not drawn into the jar after opening the
fitting, make certain the lid of the jar is tight. You
will not be able to produce the necessary vacuum
in the jar if the lid does not fit securely. Occasionally
some dirt will get into the brake line, in which case
the pump may not be totally effective. If this
happens, have someone touch the brake pedal
once lightly, with the bleeding valve open, then
proceed to use the pump.
17
BRAKE BLEEDING
To Pump
FIGURE 15: BRAKE BLEEDING KIT

MOTORCYCLE BLEEDING PROCEDURE
Before bleeding the system, ensure that:
1) The brake caliper pistons are free to move
within the calipers.
2) The master cylinder piston is free to return to
the end of its stroke, and
3) Inspect the line to ensure that all fittings are tight.
FRONT BRAKE
1) Pump brake lever to seat caliper pads
against rotor.
2) Cover gas tank with plastic protective sheet
if using DOT 3 fluid (not necessary if using
DOT 5 fluid).
3) Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and
fill reservoir.
4) Select the appropriate adapter(s). The L-shaped
universal adapters should fit snugly over the brake
bleeding fitting in order to seal properly. The
tapered adapters fit inside the thru-hole of fitting
and will generally seal well when inserted tightly
with a pressing and twisting motion. Attach adapter
to reservoir hose.
5) Pump several times to create vacuum. Crack
bleeder valve with box wrench, extracting fluid into
reservoir. (Stop and add fluid when master cylinder
begins to get low. Do not allow air to enter line.).
At this point, all air should be out of system and line
full of fluid. (Note: if air is entering the pump hose
from around bleeder fitting, remove bleeder fitting
and apply Teflon tape to threaded portion of
bleeder screw only. This will prevent air seepage
around threads of bleeder screw.)
6) While maintaining vacuum on the pump line,
tighten bleeder fitting.
7) Top off reservoir and reinstall cover. Check brake
by pumping lever several times. Pedal should have
a positive, solid feel. If not, repeat bleeding process
as more air may have entered the system. Inspect
line to ensure all fittings are tight. If brake still feels
slack, consult a service technician.
For dual disc front brakes, repeat bleeding process
as though there are two separate systems.
REAR BRAKE
Removing all air from the rear brake line is the
same as for the front. The rear brake reservoir is
usually located beneath one of the side covers.
1) Remove the master cylinder cap and fill
to near full.
2) Attach the pump hose to the bleeder fitting and
pump the handle several times to create a vacuum.
3) Crack the bleeder with a box wrench. Because of
the short line, most of the air should be evacuated
the first time.
4) By closing the valve and repeating the process,
all of the air should be eliminated from the system.
Stop and add more fluid when master cylinder
gets low.
5) Top off and recap the reservoir.
TROUBLESHOOTING
1) If, after bleeding procedure, the brake continues
to be unresponsive, you may have water in the
system, in which case it will need to be disassembled
and cleaned by a qualified service technician.
2) If the brake squeaks slightly after bleeding,
the disc and pads must be cleaned.
3) Although DOT 3 fluid is recommended by
most manufacturers, it has a tendency to collect
moisture, which causes the common discoloration
you see - and that means decreased efficiency.
DOT 5 is silicone based and does not have the same
tendency to collect moisture. It also has a higher
tolerance. DOT 5, however, is not always easy to
find and the two types of fluid must not be mixed.
4) Rubber hoses are supplied stock on most
motorcycles, but they have a tendency to expand,
which may result in a spongy brake feel after a lot
of riding. Braided steel line will not expand like this.
18
BRAKE BLEEDING