Critical Cycles city User manual

owner's manual
owner's manual

Hello!
Thank you for your purchase and congratulations on joining the
Critical Cycles Family!
We are a small team of outdoor enthusiasts who strive to provide
the joy that comes with riding a bicycle to anyone who wants to
experience it. We achieve this by oering well made, value priced
bikes that are delivered straight to you.
Like what we’re doing?
Feel free to let us know by writing a review for your new bike on
Amazon and by tagging us on social: #MyCritical
By doing so you are helping our small business grow, as we rely on
happy customers and word of mouth.
Having any issues?
Please contact us immediately so we can help you:
[e-mail]
We work hard to ensure each and every Critical Cycles customer is
pedaling around on a bike that they love!
Don’t Forget!
Be sure to register your serial number with us so we have it on le in
case we need to assist you in the future. We send a lot of bikes to a
lot of people and can’t keep track of everyone’s serial number on our
own. You can register your bike with us at
www.CriticalCycles.com
Helpful Hint: You can nd your serial number on the bottom bracket
of your bike. We recommend keeping a record of this number
somewhere else safe so you will always have access to it to.
Happy Cycling,
The Critical Cycles Team
A Westridge Outdoors Company
@CriticalCycles
/CriticalCycles
@CriticalCycles

Bicycle Owner’s Manual
12th Edition, 2017
This manual meets ISO-4210, 16 CFR 1512 and EN 14764, 14766 and 14781 Standards
IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read
it before you take the rst ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specic components
such as suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets
or lights that you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your dealer
has given you all the manufacturers’ literature that was included with your bicycle
or accessories. In case of a conict between the instructions in this manual and
information provided by a component manufacturer, always follow the component
manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility for
your safety and consult with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair
or maintenance manual. Please see your dealer for all service, repairs or
maintenance. Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes, clinics
or books on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THIS GUIDE AT
www.criticalcycles.com/handbook
CONTENTS
GENERAL WARNING 1
A NOTE TO PARENTS 1
KEEP IN MIND 2
IN THE BOX 2
MAINTAIN 3
1. FIRST
A. Bike Fit 5
B. Safety First 5
C. Mechanical Safety Check 6
D. First Ride 8
2. SAFETY
A. The Basics 9
B. Riding Safety 10
C. O Road Safety 11
D. Wet Weather Riding 11
E. Night Riding 12
F. Extreme, Stunt or Competition Riding 13
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories 14
3. FIT
A. Stand Over Height 15
B. Saddle Position 16
C. Handlebar Height and Angle 18
D. Control Position Adjustments 19
E. Brake Reach 19
4. TECH
A. Wheels 21
1. Secondary Retention Devices 23
2. Wheels with Cam Action Systems 23
3. Removing and Installing Wheels 24
B. Seat Post Cam Action Clamp 27
C. Brakes 28
D. Shifting Gears 30
E. Pedals 33
F. Bicycle Suspension 34
G. Tires and Tubes 35
5. SERVICE
A. Service Intervals 39
B. If your bicycle sustains an impact 41
APPENDIX A: Intended Use 43
APPENDIX B: Lifespan of your bike and its components 51
APPENDIX C: Coaster Brakes 58
APPENDIX D: Fastener Torque Specications 59

12
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride
a bicycle, you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know and
practice the rules of safe, responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance.
Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the
consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow
safe cycling practices.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word WARNING indicates
a potentially hazardous situation that, if not avoided, could result in injury or death.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates
a potentially hazardous situation which, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is
an alert against unsafe practices.
•The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation
that, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say, “you may lose control and fall”. Because
any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the
warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition that can occur
while riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle
under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which
cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
A NOTE FOR PARENTS:
WARNING: This manual does not cover Juvenile or BMX bikes
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your
minor child, and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly tted to the
child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child
have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and
your child have learned, understand, and obey not only the applicable local motor
vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and
responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well as review
its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with your child,
before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle
helmet when riding and that your child understands that a bicycle helmet
is for bicycling only - It must be removed when not riding.
KEEP IN MIND
Our bikes are 85% assembled. That last 15% can be tricky, though. We highly
recommend taking your bike to a professional mechanic to get it built and/or
checked out. Properly truing wheels and setting up the derailleur requires nesse
(and specialized tools) that the average cyclist doesn’t necessarily possess. We
want you to ride happy and healthy and bike mechanics can help you to do that.
Please keep in mind, our bikes have traveled quite a distance to get from us to you.
Despite our eorts to keep your bike properly packaged and protected, damage
can occur during transit.
If your bike got banged up or you’re missing a screw or two, please
contact us as soon as you receive your order. Be sure to give us a
shout before contacting the store you bought it from!
Call us: 888-488-2369
Email us: [e-mail]
IN THE BOX
ASSEMBLY CHECKLIST (for all bikes):
• Frame
• Front wheel
• Handlebar
• Pedals
• Seat and seat post
• Reector set
Some of our city bikes also come with a bell, headlight, hardware for the headlight,
and fenders.
Our folding bikes come assembled! All you need is put air in the tires.
Again, if you suspect your bike is missing a component, please contact us as soon
as possible!

34
MAINTAIN
EVERYTHING IN LIFE NEEDS A LITTLE
TENDER LOVING CARE.
There’s not too much you need to do on a daily basis to make sure your
bike stays in tip-top shape. But you should always make sure there is air in
your tires. If you notice that you’re lling up your tires often, inspect them for
punctures. Every other week, check to make sure everything on your bike
that should be tightened is tightened. This includes (but isn’t limited to) bolts
on your tires, seat post, and handlebars. If you feel like something isn’t quite
right, whether it’s the direction of your wheels or the tautness of your chain,
check it out. Always consult with your local bike shop to ensure the safety of
you, your bike, and the people around you.
As you ride, you should always be aware of the terrain you’re riding on. Avoid
obvious hazards like nails and try not to run into anything, like open car doors
(though this makes it into plenty of fail videos…we know it hurts).
BE GOOD.
Yes, we know, we already mentioned this. But it’s important to take your
bike into a bike mechanic to get it checked out. Bike mechanics have a lot of
experience with properly tuning bikes and setting up derailleurs and brakes.
Be good to yourself and be good to your bike and take it into a mechanic to
make sure everything is A-OK.

56
1. FIRST
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your rst ride.
At the very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this section,
and refer to the cited sections on any issue that you don’t completely understand.
Please note that not all bicycles have all of the features described in this Manual. Ask
your dealer to point out the features of your bicycle.
A. Bike Fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large
or too small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right
size, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your
saddle height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will
allow no saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their
angle and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your
rst ride, have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do not
understand.
B. Safety First
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet
manufacturer’s instructions for t, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See
Section 2. It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas
where you ride, and to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check Section
4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause the
wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or
death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you
know how they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require special techniques
and skills. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment, and
care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip may
be able to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the
wheel is turned. Read Section 4.E. to check whether you have toeclip overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. Suspension can
change the way a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s
instructions for use, adjustment and care.
C. Mechanical Safety Check - Check your bicycle before every ride
Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide variety
of fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often diering by model
and component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized. To
make sure that the many fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to
the Fastener Torque Specications in Appendix D of this manual or to the torque
specications in the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the component
in question. Correctly tightening a fastener requires a calibrated torque wrench. A
professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench should torque the fasteners
on you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you must use a torque
wrench and the correct tightening torque specications from the bicycle or
component manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an adjustment
at home or in the eld, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners
you worked on checked by your dealer as soon as possible. Note that there are
some components that require special tools and knowledge. In Sections 3 and 4
we discuss the items that you may be able to adjust yourself. All other adjustments
and repairs should be done by a qualied bicycle mechanic.
WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners–nuts, bolts, screws–on
your bicycle is important. Too little force, and the fastener may not hold
securely. Too much force, and the fastener can strip threads, stretch,
deform or break. Either way, incorrect tightening force can result in
component failure, which can cause you to loose control and fall.
• Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel o the ground by two or three
inches, then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do
a visual and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories?
If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inated (see Section 4.G.1). Check by
putting one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem,
then bouncing your weight on the bike while looking at tire deection. Compare
what you see with how it looks when you know the tires are correctly inated; and
adjust if necessary.
• Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and
sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
• Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side
wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits
the brake pads, take the bike to a qualied bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work eectively.
Wheel trueing is a skill which requires special tools and experience. Do
not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge, experience
and tools needed to do the job correctly.
• Whe el r ims cle an a nd un dam ag ed? M ake s ur e t he r ims a re c le an a nd u nd amage d
at the tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to
make sure that any rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the
wheel rim.

78
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer about
wheel rim wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicator that becomes
visible as the rim’s braking surface wears. A visible rim wear indicator on
the side of the wheel rim is an indication that the wheel rim has reached
its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at the end of its usable life
can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to loose control and fall.
•Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C). Squeeze the
brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated
and securely engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads contact the
wheel rim squarely and make full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin
to engage within an inch of brake lever movement? Can you apply full braking
force at the levers without having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes
need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly adjusted by a
professional bicycle mechanic.
•Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly
secured. See Section 4.A
•Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy
height adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked
position.See Section 4.B.
•Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem
are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t
twist them out of alignment. See Sections 3.B and 3.C.
• Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good
condition, with no cuts, tears, or worn out areas. If not, have your dealer replace
them. Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If not, have
your dealer plug them before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions,
make sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause
you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut
you and cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important
information on the lifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix
B on Page 45.
D. First Ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your rst familiarization ride on your new
bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists,
obstacles or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls, features and
performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.C). Test the
brakes at slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the
brakes, rear brake rst. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could
pitch you over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel,
which could cause you to lose control and fall. Skidding is an example of what can
happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the
pedals. See paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4. If your bike has suspension,
familiarize yourself with how the suspension responds to brake application and rider
weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter
while pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the
shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should
be, consult your dealer before you ride again.

910
2. SAFETY
A. The Basics
WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specic safety devices.
It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the area
where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly
equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about
bicycle lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating
bike path and trail use, helmet laws, child carrier laws, and special bicycle
trac laws. It’s your responsibility to know and obey the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet that meets the latest cer tication standards and is
appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for t, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve
headinjuriesthatmighthavebeenavoidediftheriderhadwornanappropriatehelmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet may result in serious injury or death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.);
pedals (Section 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of
chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning
wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoe
laces cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle
or snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted
when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Unless your bicycle was specically designed for jumping (See Appendix A,
Intended Use) don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or
mountain bike, can be fun; but it can put unpredictable stress on the bicycle
and its components. Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious
damage, to their bicycles as well as to themselves. Before you attempt to
jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk.
B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local trac laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and
other cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or
coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk
construction, debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve
into trac, catch your wheel or cause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the
edge of the road as possible, in the direction of trac ow or as directed by
local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down and look both ways at street
intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a
motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac sounds and emergency
vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating, and their wires can tangle in
the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger; and, before installing a child carrier or trailer, check
with your dealer or the bicycle manufacturer to make sure the bicycle is
designed for it. If the bicycle is suitable for a child carrier or trailer, make
sure that the carrier or trailer is correctly mounted and the child is secured
and wearing an approved helmet.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision, or which could become
entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies,
jumps, or go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section
2.F, Downhill, Stunt or Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your
skills before deciding to take the large risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves that may surprise people
with whom you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the inuence of alcohol or drugs.
16. Avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in
the dark, or when extremely tired.

11 12
C. O Road Safety
Children should be accompanied by an adult while riding on rough terrain.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road riding require close attention
and specic skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your
bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your
risk of losing control and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely
before trying increased speed or more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that
someone knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identication, so that people know who you
are in case of an accident; and take along some cash for food, a cool drink or
an emergency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not
frighten or endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected
moves don’t endanger you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong, help may not be close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand Section 2.F.
O Road Respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride o-road, and respect
private property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians,
other cyclists. Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to
erosion by riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem
by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is your
responsibility to minimize your impact on the environment. Leave things as you
found them; and always take out everything you brought in.
D. Wet Weather Riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the
bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is
dramatically increased in wet conditions.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of
other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip
nearly as well. This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To
make sure that you can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more
slowly and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you would under
normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A
bicyclist is very dicult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children
should never ride at dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the
greatly increased risk of riding at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care
both riding and choosing specialized equipment which helps reduce that risk.
Consult your dealer about night riding safety equipment.
WARNING: Reectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding
at dawn, at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without an
adequate bicycle lighting system and without reectors is dangerous and
may result in serious injury or death.
CAUTION: Check reectors and their mounting brackets regularly to
make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
Have your dealer replace damaged reectors and straighten or tighten any
that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reectors are often designed as brake
straddle cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on the
tire tread if the cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reectors or reector brackets
from your bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.
Removing the reectors reduces your visibility to others using the roadway.
Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death.
The reector brackets may protect you from a brake straddle cable
catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing
you to loose control and fall.
If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply
with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended
additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head/tail lights which
meet regulatory requirements for where you live and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reective clothing and accessories, such as a reective vest,
reective arm and leg bands, reective stripes on your helmet, ashing lights
attached to your body and/or your bicycle ... any reective device or light source
that moves will help you get the attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians
and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does
not obstruct a reector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely
mounted reectors.

13 14
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in trac:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac often, ask your dealer about trac safety classes or a
good book on bicycle trac safety.
F. Extreme, Stunt or Competition Riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt
Riding, Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme, aggressive
riding you will get hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury
or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not
be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s
manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles, and
therefore face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully
inspected by a qualied mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with
expert riders, area site personnel and race ocials on conditions and equipment
advisable at the site where you plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including
an approved full face helmet, full nger gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your
responsibility to have proper equipment and to be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles
about bicycling depict riders engaged in extreme riding, this activity is
extremely dangerous, increases your risk of injury or death, and increases
the severity of any injury. Remember that the action depicted is being
performed by professionals with many years of training and experience.
Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety
gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be
seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at
speed or in competition.
WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to
strength and integrity, and this type of riding can exceed those limitations
or dramatically reduce the length of their safe use.
We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if you
choose to take the risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor rst
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying
more dicult or dangerous riding
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear
• The stresses imposed on your bike by this kind of activity may break or
damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your
bicycle when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know the limits of
your skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort,
performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components
or add accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may
not have tested that component or accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety
on your bicycle. Before installing any component or accessory, including a dierent
size tire, make sure that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking with your
dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that accompany the
products you purchase for your bicycle. See also Appendix A, p. 39 and B, p. 45.
WARNING: Failure to conrm compatibility, properly install, operate and
maintain any component or accessory can result in serious injury or death.
WARNING: Changing the components on your bike with other than
genuine replacement parts may compromise the safety of your bicycle
and may void the warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the
components on your bike.

15 16
3. FIT
NOTE: Correct t is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance
and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result in
correct t for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill
and special tools. Always have your dealer make the adjustments on your
bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer
check your work before riding.
WARNING: If your bicycle does not t properly, you may lose control and
fall. If your new bike doesn’t t, ask your dealer to exchange it before you
ride it.
A. Standover Height
1. Diamond Frame Bicycles
Standover height is the basic element of
bike t (see g. 2). It is the distance from
the ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame
at that point where your crotch is when
straddling the bike. To check for correct
standover height, straddle the bike while
wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll
be riding, and bounce vigorously on your
heels. If your crotch touches the frame,
the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride
the bike around the block. A bike which
you ride only on paved surfaces and never
take o-road should give you a minimum
standover height clearance of two inches
(5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved
surfaces should give you a minimum of
three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height
clearance. And a bike that you’ll use o
road should give you four inches (10 cm)
or more of clearance.
2. Step-Through Frame Bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead,
the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to
adjust your saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits set by
the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle Position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance
and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see
your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check forcorrect
saddle height (g. 3):
• Sit on the saddle.
• Place one heel on a pedal.
• Rotate the crank until the pedal withyour heel on it
is in the down position and the crank arm is parallel
to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height
needs to be adjusted. If your hips rock for the heel
to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg
is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the
saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding
position and show you how to make this adjustment.
If you choose to make your own saddle height
adjustment:
• loosen the seat post clamp
• raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
• make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
• re-tighten the seat post clamp to the recommended
torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that
the seat post does not project beyond its “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (g. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat
tube, to make it easy to see whether the seat post is
inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If your
bicycle has a sight hole, use it instead of the “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark to make sure
the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, you must
make sure that the seat post is far enough into the
frame so that you can touch it through the bottom of
the tube with the tip of your nger without inserting
your nger beyond its rst knuckle. (g.5).

17 18
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described
in B.1 above, the seat post, binder or even frame may break, which could
cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment.
The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal position
on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and
to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own front
and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the
straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails,
and that you are using the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s)
(Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment.
Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose
angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you
how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you
have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the
clamp bolt suciently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage
before changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage
before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt
saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on the
mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the
clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight
can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue.
Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to
lose control and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the
suspension mechanism may require periodic service or maintenance.
Ask your dealer for recommended service intervals for your seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial eect on performance
and comfort. To nd your best saddle position, make one adjustment at a time.
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle
adjusting mechanism is properly seated and tightened. A loose saddle
clamp/seat post clamp can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause
you to lose control. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism
will allow no saddle movement in any direction. Periodically check to
make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position,
your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle design.
Saddles, like people, come in many dierent shapes, sizes and resilience. Your
dealer can help you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body
and riding style, will be comfortable.
WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a
saddle which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your
pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or long-term injury to nerves
and blood vessels, or even impotence. If your saddle causes you pain,
numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop riding until
you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a dierent saddle.
C. Handlebar Height and Angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem,
which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube,
or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer
tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t
sure whi ch typ e of ste m your bike has, a sk you r d eal er.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (g. 6) your dealer
may be able to change handlebar height by moving
height adjustment spacers from below the stem to
above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have
to get a stem of dierent length or rise. Consult your
dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (g. 7) ask your dealer to
adjust the handlebar height by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on
its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum
Insertion” or “Maximum Extension.” This mark must
not be visible above the headset.
WARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be visible
above the top of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum
Insertion Mark the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube,
which could cause you to lose control and fall.
WARNING: O n s om e b icycl es , cha ng ing t he st em or ste m h eigh t c an a e ct
the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating
excess cable slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front
brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim
when the stem or stem height is changed, the brakes must be correctly
adjusted before you ride the bicycle.

19 20
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has
an adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust it. Do not
attempt to make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also require
adjustments to the bicycle’s controls.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are
too tight can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and
fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you
to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
WARNING: An insuciently tightened stem clamp bolt, handlebar clamp
bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt may compromise steering action,
which could cause you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of
the bicycle between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem
assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn
the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in
relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insuciently tightened.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars
can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you. If you choose
to make your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the
clamp fasteners to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small
hands or nd it dicult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the
reach or t shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to
have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be applied
within available brake lever travel. Brake lever travel insucient to apply
full braking power can result in loss of control, which may result in serious
injury or death.

21 22
4. TECH
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things
work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things described
in this section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer
check your work before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest doubt as to
whether you understand something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer.
See also Appendix A, B, C and D.
A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair
of a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called
“dropouts” in the fork and frame, but some mountain and road bikes use what is
called a “through axle” wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain or road bike equipped with through axle front or
rear wheels, make sure that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s
instructions, and follow those when installing or removing a through axle
wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask your dealer.
If you do not have a bicycle with a through-axle wheel mounting system, it will have
wheels secured in one of three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an
adjustable tension nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other (cam
action system, g.8 a & b)
• A hollow axle with a shaf t (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on one end
and a tting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through
bolt, g. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolt-on
wheel, g. 10)
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing method for the front wheel
than for the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with
your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method
on your bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and
that you know how to apply the correct clamping force that safely secures
the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct you in correct wheel removal and
installation, and ask him to supply you with manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow the wheel
to wobble or fall o the bicycle, which can cause serious injury or death.
Therefore, it is essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to show you how to install/remove your wheels safely.
2. Apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the
surfaces of the dropouts.

23 24
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks that utilize a secondary wheel retention device to
reduce the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly
secured. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing
your front wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part that the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or
front fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast, or machined into the outer faces of the front
fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. As
its name implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If the
wheel is not secured correctly, the secondary retention device can reduce
the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork. Removing or disabling the
secondary retention device may also void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing
your wheel. Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage, which could cause you to loose control and fall,
resulting in serious injury or death.
2. Wheels with Cam Action Systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: the
traditional over-center cam (g. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (g. 8b). Both use
an over-center cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may
have a cam-and-cup front wheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam
action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (g. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushing
against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer,
against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the
tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise
while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than
half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the dierence between safe
clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the
wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like
a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get
it will not clamp a cam action wheel safely in the dropouts. See also the
rst WARNING in this Section, p. 20.
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (g. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted
for your bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six
months. Do not use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycle other than
the one for which your dealer adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing Wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear
coaster brake, front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has an
internal gear rear hub, do not attempt to remove the wheel. The removal
and re-installation of most hub braktes and internal gear hubs requires
special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result in brake or
gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
CAUTION: If your bike has a disc brake, exercise care in touching the rotor
or caliper. Disc rotors have sharp edges, and both rotor and caliper can get
very hot during use.
a. Removing a Disk Brake or Rim Brake Front Wheel
1. If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to
increase the clearance between the tire and the brake pads (See Section 4.C
g. 11 through 15).
2. If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever from the
locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position (gs. 8a & b). If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, loosen the fastener(s) a few turns
counter-clockwise using an appropriate wrench, lock key or the integral lever.
3. If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it.
If your front fork has an integral secondary retention device, and a traditional
cam action system (g. 8a) loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow
removing the wheel from the dropouts. If your front wheel uses a cam-and-
cup system, (g. 8b) squeeze the cup and cam lever together while removing
the wheel. No rotation of any part is necessary with the cam-and-cup system.
You may need to tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to release
the wheel from the front fork.
b. Installing a Disk Brake or Rim Brake Front Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a front disk brake, be careful
not to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk
into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the
disk is correctly inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
1. If your bike has cam action front wheel retention, move the cam lever so that it
curves away from the wheel (g. 8b). This is the OPEN position. If your bike has
through bolt or bolt-on front wheel retention, go to the next step.

25 26
2. With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades
so that the axle seats rmly at the top of the fork dropouts. The cam lever, if
there is one, should be on rider’s left side of the bicycle (g. 8a & b). If your bike
has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
3. If you have a traditional cam action mechanism: holding the cam lever in the
ADJUST position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with
your left hand until it is nger tight against the fork dropout (g. 8a). If you have
a cam-and-cup system: the nut and cup (g. 8b) will have snapped into the
recessed area of the fork dropouts and no adjustment should be required.
4. While pushing the wheel rmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and
at the same time centering the wheel rim in the fork:
a. With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into
the CLOSED position (g. 8a & b). The lever should now be parallel to
the fork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping
force, you should have to wrap your ngers around the fork blade for
leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
b. With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all
the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN
position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter
turn and try tightening the lever again.
c. With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action
retention device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the
cam lever without wrapping your ngers around the fork blade for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the
surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever;
turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try
again. See also the rst WARNING in this Section, p. 20.
5. If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. a. (1) above,
reengage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
6. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
c. Removing a disk brake or rim brake Rear Wheel
1. If you have a multi-speed bike with a derailleur gear system: shift the rear
derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
If you have an internal gear rear hub, consult your dealer or the hub
manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to remove the rear wheel.
If you have a single-speed bike with rim or disk brake, go to bullet 4 below.
2. If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quick-release mechanism to
increase the clearance between the wheel rim and the brake pads (see
Section 4.C, gs. 11 through 15).
3. On a derailleur gear system, pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
4. With a cam action mechanism, move the quick-release lever to the OPEN
position (g. 8b). With a through bolt or bolt on mechanism, loosen the
fastener(s) with an appropriate wrench, lock lever or integral lever; then push
the wheel forward far enough to be able to remove the chain from the rear
sprocket.
5. Lift rear wheel o ground a few inches and remove from rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Disk Brake or Rim Brake Rear Wheel
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with a rear disk brake, be careful not
to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk
into the caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the
disk is correctly inserted in the caliper.
1. With a cam action system, move the cam lever to the OPEN position (see g.
8 a & b). The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the derailleur
and freewheel sprockets.
2. On a derailleur bike, make sure that the rear derailleur is still in its outermost,
high gear, position; then pull the derailleur body back with your right hand. Put
the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
3. On single-speed, remove the chain from the front sprocket, so that you have
plenty of slack in the chain. Put the chain on the rear wheel sprocket.
4. Insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in.
5. On a single speed or an internal gear hub, replace the chain on the chainring;
pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight in the frame and the
chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and-down play.
6. With a cam action system, move the cam lever upwards and swing it into the
CLOSED position (g. 8 a & b). The lever should now be parallel to the seat
stay or chain stay and curved toward the wheel. To apply enough clamping
force, you should have to wrap your ngers around the fork blade for leverage,
and the lever should leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
7. With a through-bolt or bolt-on system, tighten the fasteners to the torque
specications in Appendix D or the hub manufacturer’s instructions.

27 28
NOTE: If, on a traditional cam action system, the lever cannot be pushed all
the way to a position parallel to the seat stay or chain stay, return the lever to
the OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-
quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel with a cam action retention
device takes considerable force. If you can fully close the cam lever
without wrapping your ngers around the seat stay or chain stay for
leverage, the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your
hand, and the serrations on the wheel fastener do not emboss the
surfaces of the dropouts, the tension is insucient. Open the lever;
turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
See also the rst WARNING in this Section, p. 20.
8. If you disengaged the brake quick-release mechanism in 3. c. (2) above,
re-engage it to restore correct brake pad-to-rim clearance.
9. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake pads; then squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
B. Seat post cam action clamp
Some bikes are equipped with a cam action seat post binder. The seat post cam
action binder works exactly like the traditional wheel cam action fastener (Section
4.A.2) While a cam action binder looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and
a nut on the other, the binder uses an over-center cam action to rmly clamp the
seat post (see g. 8a).
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the
saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to show you know how to clamp your seat post.
2. Apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post.
3. Before you ride, rst check that the seat post is securely clamped.
Adjusting the seat post cam action mechanism
The action of the cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat
post securely in place. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension
adjusting nut. Turning the nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever
from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn can make the dierence
between safe and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING:The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seat
post securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a
wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it
will not clamp the seat post safely.
WARNING: If you can fully close the cam lever without wrapping your
ngers around the seat post or a frame tube for leverage, and the lever
does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is
insucient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a
quarter turn; then try again.
C. Brakes
There are three general types of bicycle brakes: rim brakes, which operate by
squeezing the wheel rim between two brake pads; disc brakes, which operate by
squeezing a hub-mounted disc between two brake pads; and internal hub brakes.
All three can be operated by way of a handlebar mounted lever. On some models of
bicycle, the internal hub brake is operated by pedaling backwards. This is called a
Coaster Brake and is described in Appendix C.
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes, worn brake pads, or wheels on
which the rim wear mark is visible is dangerous and can result in serious
injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which
could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive application
of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may
result in serious injury or death.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (g.11) and linear-pull brakes
(g. 12), are extremely powerful. Become familiar with these brakes and
exercise particular care when using them.
4. Some brakes are equipped with a brake force modulator, a small,
cylindrical device through which the brake control cable runs and which
is designed to provide a more progressive application of braking force. A
modulator makes the initial brake lever force more gentle, progressively
increasing force until full force is achieved. If your bike is equipped
with a brake force modulator, take extra care in becoming familiar with
its performance characteristics. Some brake force modulators are
adjustable. If you don’t like the feel of your brakes, ask your dealer about
adjusting the brake force modulation.
5. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not to
touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
6. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for operation and care of
your brakes, and for when brake pads must be replaced. If you do not
have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the
brake manufacturer.
7. If replacing worn or damaged parts, use only manufacturer-approved
genuine replacement parts.

29 30
1. Brake Controls and Features
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
remember which brake lever controls which brake on
your bike. Traditionally, in the U.S. the right brake lever
controls the rear brake and the left brake lever controls
the front brake; but, to check how your bike’s brakes
are set up, squeeze one brake lever and look to see
which brake, front or rear, engages. Now do the same
with the other brake lever.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the
brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small
to operate the levers comfortably, consult your dealer
before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable;
or you may need a dierent brake lever design.
Most rim brakes have some form of quick-release
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire
when a wheel is removed or reinstalled. When the
brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes
are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you
understand the way the brake quick release works on
your bike (see gs. 12, 13. 14 & 15) and check each time
to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get
on the bike.
2. How Brakes Work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction
between the braking surfaces. To make sure that you
have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims
and brake pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and
free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to
stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel
occurs at the point just before the wheel “locks up”
(stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids,
you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
directional control. You need to practice slowing and
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The
technique is called progressive brake modulation.
Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where
you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force,
squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking
force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release
pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just
short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the
amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel
at dierent speeds and on dierent surfaces. To better
understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying dierent
amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants
to continue at the speed at which it was going. This causes a transfer of weight to
the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could
send you ying over the handlebars).
So, as you apply brakes and your weight is transferred forward, you need to
shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the
rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and
increase front braking force. This is even more important on descents, because
descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to eective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel
lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is even more pronounced if
your bike has a front suspension fork. Front suspension “dips” under braking,
increasing the weight transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight
transfer techniques where there is no trac or other hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. It will take
longer to stop on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so
the wheels have less cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less
brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to grip. The
way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly.
D. Shifting gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain (see 1. below), an internal
gear hub drivetrain (see 2. below) or a combination of the two.
1. How a Derailleur Drivetrain Works
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will have:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a. Shifting Gears
There are several dierent types of shifting controls: levers, twist grips,
triggers, combination shift/brake controls and push-buttons. Ask your dealer
to explain the type of shifting controls that are on your bike.

31 32
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to
a “lower” or “slower” gear, one that is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to
a “higher” or “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the
rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur
and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear
which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two
ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up
the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what
is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is
to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for
accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or
away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design
requires that the drive chain be moving forward and be under at least some
tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
CAUTION: Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor
pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This
could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear
derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear sprocket to another. The
smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling
in the higher gears requires greater pedaling eort, but takes you a greater
distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets
produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling eort, but takes
you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain
from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a
downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket
results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to move the chain from one
sprocket to another, the rider must be pedaling forward.
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain
between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring
makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
d. Which Gear Should I Be In?
The combination of largest rear and smallest front gears (g. 16) is for the
steepest hills. The smallest rear and largest front combination is for the
greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, nd
the “starting gear” which is right for your level of ability — a gear which is hard
enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop
without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get
a feel for the dierent gear combinations.
At rst, practice shifting where there are
no obstacles, hazards or other trac, until
you’ve built up your condence. Learn not
to use either the “smallest to smallest” or
“largest to largest” gear combinations
because they may cause unacceptable
stress on the drive train. Learn to
anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a
lower gear before the hill gets too steep.
If you have diculties with shifting, the
problem could be mechanical adjustment.
See your dealer for help.
WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest
sprocket if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may
be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.
e. What if it won’t Shift Gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift
to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take
the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
2. How an Internal gGear Hub Drivetrain Works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism
will consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an innitely variable internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one front sprocket called a chainring
• a drive chain
a. Shifting Internal Gear Hub Gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the
shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have
moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on
the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
b. Which Gear Should I Be In?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest
gear is for the greatest speed.
Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like
2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier,
“slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in
sequence. Instead, nd the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear which

33 34
is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a
stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to
get a feel for the dierent gears. At rst, practice shifting where there are no
obstacles, hazards or other trac, until you’ve built up your condence. Learn
to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too
steep. If you have diculties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical
adjustment. See your dealer for help.
c. What if it won’t Shift Gears?
If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift
to the next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take
the bike to your dealer to have it adjusted.
E. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the
handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common
on small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the
outside pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will
also prevent the inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.
NOTE: Changing tire size or pedal crank arm length aects toe overlap.
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask
your dealer to help you determine if the combination of frame size, crank
arm length, pedal design and shoes you will use results in pedal overlap.
Whether you have overlap or not, you must keep the inside pedal up and
the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.
2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially
dangerous surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing
grip between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-
performance pedal, you must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the
pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer
a less aggressive pedal design, or chose to ride with shin pads. Your dealer
can show you a number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and
engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the
pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when
tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal.
While toeclips and straps give some benet with any kind of shoe, they work
most eectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer
can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded soles or
welts which might make it more dicult for you to insert or remove your foot
should not be used with toeclips and straps.
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps
requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it
becomes a reex action, the technique requires concentration that
can distract your attention and cause you to lose control and fall.
Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles,
hazards or trac. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until
your technique and condence in getting in and out of the pedals
warrants it. Never ride in trac with your toe straps tight.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are another means to keep
feet securely in the correct position for maximum pedaling eciency. They
have a plate, called a “cleat,” on the sole of the shoe, which clicks into a mating
spring-loaded xture on the pedal. They only engage or disengage with a very
specic motion that must be practiced until it becomes instinctive. Clipless
pedals require shoes and cleats that are compatible with the make and model
pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of
force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s
instructions, or ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment. Use
the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging becomes a reex action,
but always make sure that there is sucient tension to prevent unintended
release of your foot from the pedal.
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes
specically made to t them and are designed to rmly keep the foot
engaged with the pedal. Do not use shoes that do not engage the
pedals correctly.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until
engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reex action, the technique
requires concentration that can distract your attention and cause you to lose
control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place
where there are no obstacles, hazards or trac; and be sure to follow the
pedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have the
manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
F. Bicycle Suspension
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There are many dierent
types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual.
If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow
the suspension manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have
the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension