Delta Rockwell 37-110 Manual

For heavy duty work use a No. 62-413, ~ H. P.
1725 R. P. M. capacitor motor, 60 cycle, single phase,
115 volts, alternating current only.
PM-1697
U. S. Poteat No. 1,790,288; 1,967,791; 1,975,562; ~ •. 156,923
37-8: Jointer Instruction Manual
Revised: 8-15-58
4" JOINTER
Instructions
MOTOR, PULLEYS AND BELT
We recommend our No. 60-013 ~ H. P., 11'5 volt, 60
cycle, 1725
R. P. M. bronze bearing motor with Y2" shaft
for medium duty work.
HOMECRAFf
and Maintenance
Power Tools
No. 37-110
Operating
_ ....
Each jointer is inspected and tested before shipment.
These machines will give excellent results if properly
used and maintained. The adjustments for various
operations are described below; read and follow the
instructions carefully.
The Homecraft 4" Jointer is an accurate machine,
ideal for the home workshop. Its maximum depth of
cut is ~-inch.
CONSTRUCTION FEATURES
Consult your Delta dealer for the correct motor if the
electric current available is different from that indicated
above.
The cutter head of this jointer runs in sealed ball
bearings which need no lubrication throughout their
life. It carries three high speed steel knives which are
easily adjusted and securely locked in their dove-tail
grooves.
The fence is finish ground to increase accuracy, and
is heavily ribbed for rigidity and to prevent warping.
The fence can be easily locked in any position across
the table, and can be tilted 45° right or left. It is also
.provided
with an adjustable stop so the fence can be
returned at right angles to the table.
FroRt and ,rear tables are finish ground after" as-
sembly on the base. This additional operation assures
the true alignment necessary for accurate work and is a
feature usually found only in the larger and more
expensive .machines.
Speed of the cutter head should be about 4000 rpm
for best results. The correct speed is obtained with the
No. 60-013 or 62-413 motor by using the 6Y2-inch motor
pulley No. 5650 in conjunction with the 2~-inch cutter
head pulley J-17-S which is furnished on the jointer.
For any other motor, order a pulley of the correct
bore to fit the shaft, give the speed of the motor, and
sper;[ that you want the right diameter for running a
2~. ch drive pulley at, 4000 rpm.
The cutter head must rotate forward on top. If
your motor runs in the wrong direction, reverse it
according to the manufacturer's instructions, or in the
case of a double-shaft motor, turn it end for end.
The No. 49-172 V-Belt, offered for use with this jointer,
has an outside circumference of 59% inches. It will
accommodate the usual install as. Consult your Delta
dealer if you need a belt of other length to fit special
conditions.
MOUNTING AND ASSEMBLING
The jointer, shown in Fig. 1, is shipped complete in a
single
package marked No. 37-110. It consists of two
units, the body and the fence. The knife guard and a
wrench for the lock screws of the cutter head are included.
The motor and other items of your order are supplied in
separate packages.
In choosing a location for the machine, be sure to
allow clearance in front of and behind the tables for
jointing long pieces .
A
portable unit can be made by mounting the jointer
and motor on a 2 x 12-inch dressed pJank 30 inches long.
It may be placed on any convenient work table for opera-
tion and stored on a shelf when not in use. 2-inch blocks
must be inserted under the jointer base for such mount-
ing, to raise the machine so that the motor can be placed
directly back of the rear table and to allow removal of
chips. Use long bolts through the base, blocks and plank.

Some operators prefer to mount the motor on a shelf
below the bench. In such installation, run the belt
through a slot in the bench top, or locate the machine
and motor so that the pulleys extend beyond the edge.
Arrange a chute for the chips, so that they do not fall
onto the motor.
Having decided upon the arrangement most suitable
for your needs, set the jointer body in its proposed
position. Install the motor pulley and drive belt. Locate
the motor so that the pulleys are in line, with the shafts
parallel and the belt tight enough to prevent slipping.
Mark and drill the mounting holes. Use ordinary carriage
bolts of proper length for fastening the machine and
motor.
Mount the fence on the jointer by slipping the cross
slide
bracket HJ-6 into the slot under the front table.
Install the knife guard J-13-S on the front table, con-
necting the coil spring as shown in Fig. 1. The machine
is now ready for adjustment and operation.
OPERATING ADJUSTMENTS
Although the jointer is carefully adjusted at the
factory, it should be checked before it is put into opera-
tion. Any inaccuracies due to parts shifting in transit
:an easily be corrected by following these directions:
Rear Table and Knife Adjustment
For accurate work in most jointing operations, the
rear table must be exactly level with the knives at their
highest point of revolution. This means, of course, that
the knives must be parallel to the table and project
equally from the cutter head.
METHOD FOR CHECKING REAR TABLE ELEVATION
AND KNIFE ALIGNMENT
Fit. 2.
To check the adjustment, place a steel straight edge
on the rear table, extending over the cutter head as
shown in Fig. 2. Rotate the cutter head by hand. The
blades should just touch the straight edge. If a knife
is high or low at either end, loosen its lock screws J-23
slightly, shift the blade until it just touches the straight
edge, and tighten securely.
Raise or lower the rear table as required, by turning
the hand knob HJ-12. After it has been set at the
correct height, it should not be changed, except for
special operations and after sharpening knives.
2
K2~~
.... _-------.:=_===
REAR TABLE Too HIGH
Fit. 3.
If the rear table is too high, the result will be as
shown in Fig. 3; the finished surface will be curved.
When the rear table is too low, the condition will be
as illustrated in Fig. 4; the .wcrk will be gouged at
the end of the cut.
R<2«3J
.... J
REAR TABLE ToO Low
Fig. 4.
As afinal check of the rear table adjustment, run a
piece of wood slowly over the knives for 6 to 8 inches;
it should rest firmly on both tables, as shown in Fig. 5,
with no open space under the finished cut.
e27?1
'""-------------~
REAR TABLE AT CORRECT HEIGHT
Fit. 5.

Depth of Cut
The amount of material removed by a single cut can
be any thickness from a very thin shaving to ~ inch.
Adjust for depth of cut by raising or lowering the
front table, using the hand knob HJ-12 on the front
of the base.
Fence Adiustments
The fence may be set at any position within the
width of the table. Lock it by turning the bolt J-36-S
into the cross slide bracket HJ-6 from below.
To tilt the fence, loosen the segment HJ-5 by turn-
ing the handle SR-217. When tilting to the left, flip
the stop link J-19 out of the way to pass the stop screw
SP-I08. Set the fence to the desired angle on the tilt
scale and lock it by means of the handle. SR-217. This
handle is adjustable on the serrated nut HJ-9 so that
it can be set to the most convenient position.
The face of the fence should stand exactly square
with the tables when the stop SP-I08 is against the
stop link J-19. Check this with a mechanics' square.
Joint two adjacent faces of a piece of work, being
careful to keep the first face firmly against the fence
while the second is being jointed. Check the angle
between the finished faces. If not exactly at right
angles, make the correction by turning the s.top screw
against th'e link, or backing away, as required. When
the setting is correct, lock the stop screw by means of
its hexagon nut SP-I029. Set the pointer L-24 to zero
on the tilt scale. The scale will then indicate correctly
any angle to which the fence is tilted, and the fence will
return to the square position when the stop screw is
brought into contact with the stop link.
LUBRICATION
The use of sealed bearings on the cutter head elimi-
nates the need for lubrication of these parts. It is
advisable to protect the finished surfaces of the fence
and tables from rusting, by using "Stop Rust" after
each days use. Apply a drop or two of light machine oil
to the table ways and the sliding parts of the fence
so that these parts will operate freely.
WHETTING KNIVES
FI,.6.
3
CUTTER HEAD MAINTENANCE
After considerable use, the knives will become dull
and it will not be possible to do accurate work. Unless
badly damaged by running into metal or other hard
material, they may be sharpened as follows:
Whetting Knives
Use afine carborundum stone; cover it partly with
paper as indicated in Fig. 6, to avoid marking the
table. Lay the stone on the front table, lower the table
and tum the cutter head forward until the stone lies
flat
on the bevel of the knife, as shown. Hold the
cutter head from turning, and whet the bevelled edge
of the knife, stroking lengthwise by sliding the stone
back and forth across the table. Do the same amount
of whetting on each of the three blades.
Jointing Knives
Knives may also be sharpened and brought to a
true cutting circle by "jointing" their edges while the
cutter head is revolving. To do this, place the car-
borundum stone on the rear table as shown in Fig. 7.
JOINTING KNIVES
Fig. 7.
Be sure that the rear table is at the highest point of the
cutting circle. Start the machine and move the stone
forward until it projects over the knives; then move it
across the table so that the knives are jointed their
entire length. Keep the stone flat on the table. If the
stone does not touch the knives at all points, lower the
rear table one or two thousandths of an inch and repeat.
When this operation is carefully done. the knives will
cut very smoothly.
Setting Knives
If the knives have been removed from the cutter
head, care must be used in re-setting them. Each knife
should be placed in its groove so that the rear edge
of the bevel projects 1/16 inch beyond the surface of
the cutter head. Slip the knife lock bars J-22 into place
and tighten the lock screws J-23 lightly. Adjust the
knives for true cutting circle. using the straight edge
as described under "Rear Table and Knife Adjust-
ment." Check all lock screws to be sure that they are
tight. Joint the knives lightly before running any work.
Cutter Head Repairs
When the knives cannot be properly sharpened by
the methods described above, they must be ground to a
new bevel edge. In such case, or when bearings need

replacement, remove the entire cutter head with bear-
ings and housings from the base and return it to the
factory. Back out the fillister head screws SP-70l from
the bearing housings J-32 and J-33, inside the base, to
release the cutter head assembly.
When installing the cutter head in the jointer, be
sure to clean the curved seats of the base and tighten
the SP-70l screws firmly into the bearing housings.
MAINTENANCE
Gum and Pitch which collects on the blades causes
excessive friction as the work continues, resulting in
over heating the blades, less efficient cutting, and con-
sequently loss of blade life. Use "Delta Gum and Rust
Remover" to wipe this off the blades.
When these blades become dull enough so that it
is noticeable when cutting, they should be resharpened.
A sharp blade works easier and results in longer blade
life. The penalty paid for a dull blade is less blade life
and greater wear and tear on all parts of the machine.
In time rust will appear on the table and fence and
other parts of the jointer, resulting in less efficiency
and accuracy of the machine. Use "Stop Rust" which
can be applied to prevent rust formation. If, however,
rust has already formed on these parts use "Delta
Rust Remover" which will restore the machine to its
original accuracy when applied. Using "Stop Rust"
after each time you use the machine will put afilm on
the parts it is applied to, preventing rust formation.
OPERATION
The following directions will give the beginner a start
on jointer operations. Use scrap pieces of lumber to
check settings and to get the feel of the operations before
attempting regular work.
Jointing an Edge
This is the most common operation for the jointer.
Set the guide fence square with the table. Depth of
cut should be the minimum required to obtain a straight
edge. Hold the best face of the piece firmly against
the fence throughout the feed.
Use of Hands While Feeding
At the start of the cut, the left hand holds the work
firmly against the front table and fence, while the right
hand pushes the work toward the knives. After the cut
is under way, the new surface rests firmly on the rear
table as shown in Fig. S. The left hand should press down
on this part, at the same time maintaining flat contact
with the fence. The right hand presses the work forward
throughout, protecting the operator against kick-back
from the knives.
.. ",A
Fig. 8. Push Blocks.
4
Jointing Warped Pieces
If the wood to be jointed is dished or warped, take
light cuts until the surface is flat. Avoid forcing such
material down against the table; excessive pressure will
spring it while passing the knives, and it will spring
back and remain curved after the cut is completed.
Jointing Short or Thin Work
When jointing short or thin pieces, use a push block
to eliminate all danger to the hands. Two types are
shown in Fig. 8. They are easily made from scrap
material.
Direction of Grain
Avoid feeding work into the jointer against the grain
as shown in Fig. 9; the result will be chipped and
splintered edges. Feed with the grain as in Fig. 10 to
obtain a smooth surface.
WRONG FEED - AGAINST THE GRAIN
Fig. 9.
CORRECT FEED -WITH THE GRAIN
Fig. 10 •
Rabbeting
The arm of the front table and ledge of the rear
table provide for cutting rabbets up to 7.;l inch deep
and 4 inches wide. The operation is illustrated in Fig. 11.
The knife guard must be removed. Set the fence to
control the width of rabbet, measuring from the end of
the knives to the face of the fence. Lower the front table

Fig. 12.
CLAMP
STOP BLOCK
r---- _
FENCE
BoTH TABLES ARE LOWERED EQUALLY FOR
STOP CHAMFERING
Stop Chamfering
Figure 12 shows the cutting of a stop chamfer, an
operation for which the rear table must be lowered from
its usual position. The tables must be set to the
same level. Depth of chamfer is determined by the
amount the tables are lowered.
The stop block clamped to the front end of the
fence prevents kick-back. Locate it to start the chamfer
at the right place, and use a similar stop block at the
rear end of the fence to control length of cut. These
settings should be made before the machine is started.
Roughness caused by cutting against the grain at the
end of the chamfer may be smoothed by sanding, or
the cut may be run half way and reversed.
The true stop chamfer is a bevel cut, and is made with
the fence tilted to the required angle. The method
is, however, as shown in Fig. 12 for a square cut.
this very carefully, as the piece will span the knives,
and they will take a "bite" from the work. with a
tendency to kick back unless the piece is firmly held.
Now push the work forward as in ordinary jointing.
The effect is to plane off all the stock in front of the
knives. to increasing depth, leaving a tapered surface.
The ridge left by the knives when starting the taper
may be removed by taking- a very light cut according
to the regular method for jointing. with the front table
raised to its usual position.
Practice is required in this operation. and the be-
ginner is advised to make trial cuts on waste material.
Taper cuts over part of the leng-th and a number of
other special operations can easily be done by the ex-
perienced craftsman.
Taper Cuts
One of the most useful jointer operations is cutting
an edge to a taper. The method ~an be used on a wide
variety of work. Tapered legs of furniture are a com-
mon example.
Instead of laying the piece on the front table, lower
the forward end of the work onto the rear table. Do
Fig. 11. Cu"ing a Rabbet.
Beveling
To cut a bevel, lock the fence at the required angle
and run the work across the knives while keeping it
firmly against the fence and tables. Several passes
may be necessary to arrive at the desired result.
When the angle is small, there is little difference
whether the fence is tilted to the right or left. How-
ever, at greater angles, approaching 45 degrees, it is
increasingly difficult to hold the work properly when
the fence is tilted to the right. The advantage of the
double-tilting fence is appreciated under such condi-
tions. When tilted to the left. the fence forms a V -shape
with the tables. and the work is easily pressed into the
pocket while passing it across the knives. If the bevel
is laid out on the piece in such direction that this
involves cutting against the grain. it will be better to
tilt the fence to the right.
to determine the depth of cut. Feed slowly when making
a deep cut, to avoid splitting the wood. For wide cuts,
make two or more passes at increasing depths. Use a
push block when rabbeting the end of narrow stock.
,
5

No, 37-110
HOMECRAFT
4"JOINTER
SP-2252 (2)
SP_40:P-li~j2" \\--flR.m--_SP-I005 (4)
(2) J-12
SP-701 ' (4)
(2)
jl.1522
&--~
Fig. 13.
6

IMPORTANT: Give both the Part Number and the Description of each item when orderinc from thia list; allO the Serial
Number of the machine on which the parts are to be used.
Table 1. REPLACEMENT PARTS
1
1
3
9
1
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
3
4
1
4
2
4
1
Number
RequiredDescription
ACCESSORIES
Wrench .
Switch Rod .
Wrench. . . . . .. .. . .
6>-'2" Dia. Motor Pulley .
"V" Belt .
Retractable
Caster Set. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Steel Stand .
Cutter head, Including: .
37-802-Set 3Jointer Knives .
J-22-Knife Lock Bar .
J-23-74:-28 x 74:" Hex. Hd. Screw .
J-32-Bearing Housing for Pulley Side .
J-33-Bearing Housing for Left Side .
SP-5336-Bearing .
Steel Pin,
?1'6 x 11 }f" Cone Point. .
Coil
Spring 3~ Dia., >-'2" Free Length .
74:-20 x ~" Flat Hd. Machine Screw .
74:-20 x >-'2" Rd. Hd. Machine Screw .
74:-20 x ~" Fillister Hd. Machine Screw .
Yt6-18 x1" Rd. Hd. Stove Bolt .
%-16-Hex. Jam Nut .
74:" -Steel Washer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . " .
?1'6 Steel Washer .
74:" Split Lockwasher .
Drive
Screw #2 x Vt6" .
Clamp Handle .
Part No.
#194
#1333
#1522
#5650
#49-172
#49-363
#50-304
J-35
NCS-33
SP-406
SP-509
SP-70l
SP-908
SP-1005
SP-1603
SP-1606
SP-1702
SP-2252
SR-217
37-806**1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
2
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
Number
Required
DescriptionPart No.
HJ-9
HJ-12-3
HJ-16-3
J-8
J-ll
J-I-2
J-13-S
Front Table .
*Rear Table .
* Base .
BM-46 2%4" Steel Washer .
HDP-133 Name Plate .
HJ-5-M Fence Segment, Including .
J-19-Stop Link .
J-42-Steel Pin .
J-44-#8-32 X Yt6" Headless Set Screw .
L-24-Center Point >-'2" x %" Straight Body .
HJ-6-M Cross Slide Bracket, Including .
HJ-7-Tilt Angle Scale .
HJ-8-Stud %-16 x 1~" Threaded Both Ends .
J-36-S-Lock Bolt .
SP-108-74:"-20 x ~" Headless Set Screw .
SP-1029->-'2-20 Hex. Nut .
SP-2250-#4 x %" Drive Screw .
%-16 Serrated Nut 74:-20 Tapped Head .
Hand Knob. . .
Fence Body .
Stud
>-'2-13 x 2~" Threaded one end .
Stud
%-16 x274:" Threaded Both Ends .
1%" Spring Washer .
Knife
Guard, Including: .
J-14-Pin .
J-15-Spring .
SP-210l-Cotter Pin %" x%" .
Cutterhead Pulley, Including: .
SP-20l-%-I8-Yt6" Hex. Soc. Set Screw .
J-17 -S
CONSULT YOUR DELTA DEALER FOR PRICES OF REPLACEMENT PARTS. ACCESSORIES AND TOOLS
TO FACILITATE HANDLING WE SUGGEST ORDERING ALL PARTS THROUGH YOUR DELTA DEALER.
*IMPORTANT: Base. front and rear tables cannot be supplied separately, as the re-assembled machine would not be accu-
rate. For true alignment, we finish-grind our jointer tables after assembly on the base. When a new table or base is required.
ship the machine, less fence and knife guard. to the factory for rebuilding. The cost will be the list price for the new part
plus afixed charge for assembling and grinding the tables.
""NOTE - Cutter Head Repairs: Special tools are required to remove and replace ball bearings on the cutter head. When the
bearings or cutter head need replacement, order a complete new cutter head assembly fIi 37-806, or return the old one to us for repair-
ing for which there is nominal charge covering repair work plus a small labor charge per bearing for installing.
Knife Sharpening Service: Our charge for re-grinding and setting knives will be a nominal net charge per cutter head,
F.O.B. factory.
Be sure to send the complete cutter head assembly with bearings and housings, less pulley, by prepaid express or parcel post insured
for $22.00, for repair or sharpening service.
Replacement parts can be ordered through your Delta Dealer. Always give both the part number and the des-
cription of each part when ordering. Also the serial number of the machine on which the parts are to be used.
Many of the standard parts such as screws, nuts, washers, etc., are usually available from local Mill Supply or
Hardware Dealers.
Standard electrical parts such as switches, condensers, cords and plugs etc., can be obtained from Local Electrical
Supply Dealers or Motor Repair Shops. When ordering, refer to manufacturer part number which appears on
the part.
Delta motors are made by leading motor manufacturers whose name also appears on the motor nameplate. These
manufacturers are represented by motor service stations throughout the United States and some foreign countries.
PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
The richt is reserved to make chanles in de-ieD or equipment at any time without incurrinl any oblilation to instan these
OD machines previously sold. and to discontinue models of machines, motor. Of' accessories at any time without notice.
DistributiOD iD the UDited States. its _SiODI acept Puerto Rico ... d the C .... I
ZODe. ...d iD C.Dad. aDc! the PhilippiDe bl&Dda il by .uthorised Delt. Dalen.

;
~ Rockwell MANUFACTURING COMPANY
.~ DELTA POWER TOOL DIVISION 'ITTsaUIGH ., 'INNSYLVANIA
5M·WGJ·8·58 Printed in U.S .....