Dundalk LeisureCraft Cedar Barrel Sauna User manual

Dundalk LeisureCraft
Cedar Barrel Sauna Assembly Instructions
Please read and understand the complete instructions prior to assembly and use of your sauna.
Customer agrees not to hold Dundalk LeisureCraft Inc. and any of its authorized dealers liable for
improper installation maintenance and repair of this product.
Required:
• 2 People (recommended)
• Rubber Mallet
• Carpenter’s Hammer
• 6’ Step Ladder
• Cordless Drill (we supply the bit)
• Carpenter’s Level
• 7/16” Wrench
• Tape Measure
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Preparing the base. A full gravel pad as
shown here or individual gravel pads for
each cradle (see picture front page): Clear
loose vegetation and soil level the ground
with a slight slope for drainage and fill the
area with 2-4” of crushed limestone gravel.
Level and tamp. Patio stones as pictured
here are also an option.
A solid concrete slab or a new or existing
wooden deck all good options as long as they
drain well. Consult a professional building
contractor if you’re not sure how to proceed
with these options.
Level the cradles on top of the footings space
evenly and make sure they’re arranged in a
straight line. Using one of the long boards as
a guide.
Lay down the special 3” bottom stave (with
two convex edges) across the centres of the
cradles.
Measure 24” from the ends of the cradles to
the middle on each.
Measure 5” from each end of the stave to the
cradles as shown.
Fasten it to the cradles with the supplied 2½”
screws. NOTE: Always check to ensure that
you have the correct screw length so that
there will be enough thread to hold and
especially so that the screw won’t go all the
way through the material and come out the
other side.
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Fill the cradles with enough staves to hold
the middle section with the door and the
corresponding back middle section.
Make sure there are no gaps between the
edges of the staves. (tap together with
mallet)
A half-inch hole was bored for drainage just
inside the walls on the lower special stave.
It is handy for cleaning it out but you might
want to put a sieve in it to keep bugs out.
(Note: you can elect to do this any time
later)
Place the middle sections of the end walls into the
groove in the staves.
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Get the middle front and back wall segments plum using a
carpenter’s level or a plumb bob.
Put the special top stave in place to help stabilize the wall
sections.
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Fasten the half-moon side wall segments to
the middle wall segments with supplied 2½“
screws.
The tops of the various wall sections are
marked with A B C or D at the top to
ensure that they are properly matched.
Here they attach the front-left section to
the front-middle section matching markings
“B” to “B”.
Here they attach the rear-left section to
the rear-middle section matching markings
“C” to “C”.
Once the front and back end walls are
assembled start to assemble the barrel.
Here, the stave is only fitted onto the wall
as far as the pencil line, leaving a
deliberate gap.
The gaps are to ensure that when the bands
are tightened instead of pressing on the
end walls all of the force will be directed to
pressing the edges of the staves together to
form a water-tight seal.
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Here the installer is using one of the
supplied 1½“ finishing nails to hold a stave
onto the bottom part of the barrel. You
may not need to use nails as sometimes
the staves stay on without nails.
If you do find that you need to use them
only use nails on every second stave. The
staves in-between will be held in place by
the ones with nails.
Again make sure the inside faces of the staves
line up with the pencil circle on the end walls.
Once you get them to hold onto the edge of the
wall by themselves or with nails tap them in or
out with a hammer to line them up with the
pencil line.
Note: do not hammer on the ends of the staves
or they may break. Gently tap the staves and
only on the inside of the end wall.
Continue placing the staves up around the end
walls.
Here because the staves are on the top half of
the barrel they won’t need finishing nails to
hold them on.
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Finish installing the staves on the top half.
Again make sure there are no gaps between the staves by
tapping them firmly into place with a rubber mallet and
make sure they line up with the pencil-marked circle.
Assemble two of the bands so they can be
slipped easily on over the ends of the barrel.
Put on the outer bands JUST SNUG. Don’t tighten yet.
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Here the band is being placed with the tightening hardware
on the bottom of the side that is least visible.
IMPORTANT:
It is normal for the barrel sauna to fit
like this when the outer bands are on
(with a “hump” where the last stave is
inserted.)
Using your rubber mallet adjust the
staves so that they form nice circle
(aligned as closely with the pencil-
marked circle as possible all around).
Tap them up (from the inside of the
sauna so you don’t break the ends) or
down by hammering them on the
band with the mallet to attain a
uniform circle shape.
After the staves are adjusted into a
uniform circle shape a gap will open
up at the top of the wall (see photo
bottom of next page)
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By adjusting the staves this way
(bumping them up or down with a
rubber mallet as necessary) they
should settle into a circular shape as
pictured below.
Your barrel should look somewhat like this just before tightening; as near a circle shape as can be achieved by
adjusting the staves with a mallet but with a gap showing at the top. When the bands are tightened the staves will
be compressed inward and the visible gap will disappear.
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Measure 2” from the edge of the
band to the end of the staves all
around before tightening .
Rotate the bands so that the
tightening hardware is at the desired
location. Usually this is the least -
visible area of the barrel. That could
be bottom centre if you don’t mind
crawling down under to tighten
them.
Note that this 6’x8’ barrel has a 2’
“Porch” which is why it has a fourth
band.
Also because the overall length of
this barrel sauna is more than 10’ it
has three cradles.
Now tighten the bands each a little
at a time. If you have two people
assembling one should tighten while
the other bangs down on the bands
(or up from inside the chamber if
necessary) to keep the circular shape.
Don’t be afraid of over-tightening
the bands. You won’t break them
with a regular wrench.
Just remember to keep adjusting for
roundness with the rubber mallet as
the bands are tightened.
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Assemble the outside benches for
saunas with the porch option using
supplied 1½” screws into and pre-
drilled holes.
Attach the legs…
Then the braces
(two 1½” inch screws)…
Start the long screws (2½”) into the
end brackets to make installation
easier…
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… and install with 2½” screws.
A carpenter’s level or square can
be useful.
Fasten handles at the desired height (1½” screws) … then the towel bar (1½” screws).
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Fasten the inside benches atop the pre-installed Screw the bench supports onto the brackets under
the brackets on the walls (2½” screws). the benches and to the floor (1½” screws).
The heater goes on the centre of the end wall close to the
floor. Place something under the heater to position it with
the bottom of the heater close to the floor and mark the
bracket positions on the wall. The heater will hang on the
brackets when installed.
Note that the bottom of the heater should be no higher than
10½” from the floor. If you mount the heater too high it will
not develop enough of a hot air column to properly circulate
the air within the chamber.
See the heater manufacturer’s instructions for more details.
Wash the rocks thoroughly before placing them into the
heater or you’ll have a muddy mess when you put water on
them.
IMPORTANT: Operate the heater for an ho r with the
sa na door f lly open to b rn off any resid al coating from
the man fact ring process before sing.
Congratulations, you have successfully assembled your Cedar Barrel Sauna!
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WARRANTY
Our Products are warranted to be free of defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and service for a
period of three years (3 years) from date of purchase. With the warranty you will get a NO HASSLE next business day
(depending on shipping service) replacement for all requested parts. Product must be cared for properly this warranty
does not cover misuse or negligence and the manufacturer is not liable for any injury or damage caused by the product.
The warranty is also not valid if repairs are attempted by anyone not authorized to do so. Please contact your Dundalk
LeisureCraft Dealer for more warranty Information.
HOW TO TAKE A SAUNA
1. Pre-heat your sauna to the desired temperature (usually between 80-100°C)
2. While it’s warming up take a nice hot shower.
3. Enter the pre-heated sauna relax and allow your body to perspire in the soft dry heat. Do not throw water on the rocks
during the first part of the session.
4. Cool off with a cold shower or a quick swim in a lake or pool.
5. Re-enter the sauna and sprinkle water on the rocks. This will increase humidity to about 30% to assist in perspiration.
Half a cup every 5 minutes should be enough. Too much water will just cool off the rocks and you’ll get less steam.
6. After a 20-30 minute sauna cool off in the shower or lake or pool.
7. Repeat this sauna/cold shower process as often as desired.
8. It is important to drink during your sauna session and even a light snack.
9. Like bathing in a hot tub excessive exposure can be harmful to a person’s health. People with poor health should
consult their physicians before using the sauna.
THESE ARE GUIDELINES ONLY. ENJOY YOUR SAUNA WHATEVER WAY YOU DESIRE.
CHILDREN MUST BE SUPERVISED BY ADULTS.
MAINTAINING YOUR SAUNA AFTER INSTALLATION
1. Wash the layer of rock dust off of the sauna rocks before using them.
2. When your sauna is set up and working you should “break-in” the sauna before using it for the first time. Turn it on its
highest setting and keep it like that for about 1 hour. This is recommended to burn off any oils and impurities from
manufacturing and it also “cures” the woodwork. After about ¾ hour slowly pour about one litre of cold water on the
rocks. It should all turn to steam and not come out of the bottom of the heater. If it does you’re pouring too fast.
3. It is considered good sauna etiquette that guests take a shower with soap and sit on a double-layer of terrycloth towels
to prevent perspiration from getting onto the benches and walls where the oils will accumulate over time. After each
use leave the door fully open for the wood to dry out. Duck boards can be lifted up to air out if necessary.
4. Under normal conditions a slight wash of the floor and benches several times a year will maintain its cleanliness. The
cedar benches can be washed with a mild solution of liquid cleaner and water to remove any buildup and perspiration
stains from the wood. Never use ammonia or harsh cleaners as they can turn the wood gray.
5. Good care should be taken of the wooden bucket and ladle. They should be stored upside down to promote drying.
6. The peridotite sauna rocks may need to be replaced in 6 to 10 years depending on severity and frequency of use. In
many cases the rocks could last up to 15 years.
7. Do NOT use commercial wood sealers from local lumberyards or hardware stores. These are not designed to withstand
the sauna temperatures or humidity!
8. Contact your local dealer or Dundalk LeisureCraft directly if you have questions or concerns regarding your product.
Manufactured by:
Dundalk LeisureCraft Inc Phone: [phone]
318448 8
th
Line E, RR#3 www.dundalkleisurecraft.com
Dundalk, Ontario Canada www.leisurecraftusa.com
L9V 2K3
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