Dutch Speed Bicycles KV4 User manual

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 1
This kit was designed and produced with great care.
To turn it into a great and nice looking velomobile
you will have to nish it with care and attention.
Hasty work here can only lead to an unpleasant,
shabby looking bike that will bring you little pleasure.
So please give this project the attention and effort
it deserves. Finish all details careful and mount
everything rattle-free. This way you will make sure
that you will have many enjoyable rides in you Dutch
Speed Bicycle. Good luck!
Version, Pictures
Some details shown in the pictures may be different from what is
supplied or from what is shown on our site. Small improvements
are made almost every production run, be it to lower weight or to
improve ease of assembly.
Important! Make sure you have downloaded the last version of
the instruction manual. At the top of each page you can nd
the version number. Most pictures can be studied in detail on
www.dutchbikes.nl/uk (see the instruction manual page) Some
pictures have altered colours to make the explanation easier.
Changes (compared to the previous version) to the text are
underlined
A new milling machine has made it possible to produce the sheets
more accurately, allowing to make more pre-drilled holes. On the
other end it has limited the largest possible sizes. Resulting in a few
more seams. Also the length of the MacPherson strut (suspension
on the front wheels) has been reduced to save weight.
About this builders instruction manual.
This manual explains how to build the Dutch Speed Bicycles KV4
velomobile. As the Alligt Alleweder a4 is basically the same, you
can use it also to put those together. However we have no control
over the Alligt products, so there may be differences in details. We
take no responsibility regarding building anything other than the
kits we supply. We do not support builders working on non Dutch
Speed Bicycles kits.
Packaging
The kit comes in two large boxes and a at box. The at box
contains all the larger aluminium sheets and the machined ribs.
Some larger tubing is also included
Take out the ribs and leave the sheet in the crate, using
the crate for storage. Especially in a not so huge workshop
a sheet is otherwise easily damaged at some point.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 2
Skills
We assume that you are familiar with working on a bike and that
you have the basic DIY skills and that your have only one left
hand. Read a good book on bicycle maintenance if you think that
will help you.
Left and right
If we talk about left and right we assume to be looking from the
rear to the front of the bike. With the velomobile standing on it’s
wheels.
Front and rear
Naming front and rear we observe the direction of travel.
Questions
Should you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask. (Customer or
no customer) We will try to answer your question and may use
it to improve on this manual. But have a look at our KV4 FAQ
page rst please.
Sizes
All non-bicycle specic parts we supply are metric.
A bolt of M6 x 70 means the thread is approximately 6 mm
in diameter and the length below the head is 70 mm. For a
countersunk bolt the head is included in the length.
What you will need:
Enough room
Choose a place to work where you have enough room to work on
the velomobile. It will grow while are working on it. Also you will
need a safe place for the parts you have not yet used. You don’t
want to nd yourself standing on them from time to time! Make
sure you have enough light to see what you are doing.
It is not a dirty job, it is nice clean work. (except for the polishing
and mounting of the chains) so it could be done in the house.
Make sure you talk this through, it is a nice project but not worth
a divorce or something..

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 3
General tools
Wrenches, use open end wrenches or better still, ring spanners.
These won’t damage the nuts and bolts. If you don’t have a tting
wrench you might use a adjustable wrench (bahco). Never use
water pump pliers, they will damage or destroy the nuts and bolds
It is not nice to work with and it ruins the looks of your bike.
Set of Allen keys
An electric hand drill/screwing machine (a cordless is easy to
handle and works well)
A right angle head or Right angle drill (could be borrowed, you
will not need it often) (Cheapest solution is a separate head, we
bought this one in a DHY sales for 5 Euro)
Right angle grinder with 0,8 mm cutting disk
Heat gun of burner. (gas cooker will do too)
Ø 3.3 (supplied) Ø 6 and Ø 9 mm steel drills
Rubber hammer
Hammer
Safety goggles
Measuring tape
Optional: Cloth polishing wheel and polishing agent. A cloth and
brass polish will do ne, it will just take longer. (The polishing is
optional anyway)
Grease, Oil
Bicycle tools
Screw Type Chain Tool This is an inexpensive but very useful
tool that lets you remove chain rivets. This is also needed when
adjusting a bike to a much longer or shorter cyclist.
Crank arm puller for removing crank arm xing bolts and nuts.
You need also
A workbench with a vice or a workmate You will begin working
on this.
Two simple trestles. Very useful for supporting the Velomobile in
all sorts of positions
Special tools
A useful tool can be easily made of plywood. It will help you mark
the centre of the tubes when drilling the holes through the sheet
into the tube.
Naturally different markings are needed for different sizes of tube.
Check this on the tube without the sheet.
With the use of a piece of tape and marker you can even nd the distance
between each rivet. Or from one hole to the next
trestle

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 4
General techniques
Using Tape.
We supply a roll of strong packaging tape with the kit. Tape is
very useful to preposition things. Actually this is - literally- a very
powerful tool. If you stretch the tape while applying it, the tape will
exert a pulling force once it is applied. By applying a second tape
in the same position you will double that force. This is very useful
in bending the aluminium sheets in the proper position and getting
them to t nicely. You may regard it as a very exible clamp. But
be careful, you can actually overdo it an damage stuff! It really
is a powerful tool.
Pop riveting
For most of the pop rivet connections one of the two parts is pre
drilled. In those cases you can use these holes as a mould to drill
the opposite hole. The kit is supplied with 2000 good quality pop
rivets.
A) Position the two parts carefully, make sure the right sheet is on
top. In general the higher sheet is over the lower sheet, to prevent
the rain from dripping in. If in doubt, have a look at the large
photographs on the KV4 manual page on our website.
B) Drill the hole using one of the supplied 3.3 mm drills,
Remove any burr between the two parts
C) Fasten the (supplied) pop rivet.
D) You can not use pop rivets in solid sections
The wonderful thing about pop rivet is that it is a permanent connection and
a not permanent connection at the same time. It can be removed. Simply drill
through the head of the pop rivet and the complete rivet will be removed. The
hole can be used again. This can be repeated several times.
Make sure to drill in the right spot though, a hole can not be un-drilled.
Bending tubes
Some pre-bent tubes need to be corrected to match the exact form.
This is done easiest with the aid of a wooden plank with a gently rounded hole.
Do this carefully. Little by little at the time. Make a small change and check on
the assembly. Be careful not to buckle the tube!
There is a small but helpful lm on the site, showing the
process.
A
B
C
D

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 5
Cutting sheets.
In some places you need to cut the sheet to size. All sheet is pre cut,
and for a large part pre drilled. But in some places there is some
extra material to remove the need to work very precisely .
A good way to cut it is using a right angel grinder using a thin (we
use 0.8 mm) cut-off blades. This allows you to make a smooth
cut.
An another way is to use a “Dremel”- type high speed unit with a
ex-shaft attachment. This works well, but is slower and does not
give such a smooth line. Make sure to use the real “Dremel” brand
cut-off blades. One set will do.
(Be careful - in both cases - to take precautionary measures like
safety goggles hearing protection and proper clothing)
Remove burrs with sandpaper. Do this carefully in spots where
there is a risk that you might cut yourself, while using the
velomobile. Be careful not the touch the surface of the sheet wit the
sandpaper. This will leave ugly scratches.
Finishing tube edges
Many edges of sheets are nished with tubes. These allow you to
form the sheet around these edges.
To make this possible the sheet must be riveted properly to the
tube.
A) Cut the sheet at the proper length. In most cases this is just
over 90º around the tube counting from the rivets. In sharp corners
60º is better. The best position for the rivet is just where the
sheet touches the tube or even better, slightly above that point.
(A rivet below that point would deform the sheet in an ugly way)
B) Use a rubber hammer to bend the sheet gently around the tube.
C) Use a small metal hammer to get the sheet more tightly around
the tube.
Support the tube when hammering. If you cannot support it, then
support it by holding a heavier hammer against the tube’s opposite
side.
Use a piece of wood in difcult to reach spots. Avoid damage.
Do the rim tube edge (around the cockpit) at the end, this is the
most visible edge. Do it when you have gained most experience.
A
OK
OK
NOT OK
B
C

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 6
Required parts The Seat
Use the seat to practice your skills.
Any mistake can be corrected here. It will not
show in the end result. The seat will be covered
anyway.
Read general techniques rst.
Some details of the seat have been improved. It does not
effect the way of assembly .
Please note: The top end has been changed and is different
than in most pictures. The new top end is shown only as
the separate part and in the picture showing the nish of
the top.
Connect the two sheets with pop rivets
Use a table or a workmate
Drill a hole through the ribs at the location of the
hole.
This is the low end of the seat
Put the rst two rivets in.
Holding the rib you work on, in a workmate or similar, is
a good idea.
Make sure the distance between the two ribs is at least 151
mm (inside) otherwise the seat will not t over the main ribs
of the frame.
Make sure the ribs align with the holes in the sheet
x the position at the top.
Use tape or a clamp to hold it there.
Drill a hole in the ribs using the sheet as a mould
Work your way up from the bottom. Drill and
rivet, one at the time.
Do one rib rst then the other.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 7
Bend the aps inward to shape the seat.
Start at the long sides and work your way down. You will
nd the complex shape will form easy
The description below is a bit different
form what is shown in the pictures, but is
much easier.
Rivet one side of the cross to the edge of the seat
and bend it over the ribs and rivet also on the
opposite side. Then rivet the cross to the back of
the ribs.
Careful, it is not as symmetric as you might expect. The
larger end ( B) goes at the bottom. Make sure the distance
between the two ribs is at least 151 mm (inside) otherwise
the seat will not t over the main ribs of the frame.
Fasten the aps with the separate pieces.
Fasten the top Tube and bend the remainder of the
ap around it (about 1/4 around the tube)
Use a rubber hammer, support the tube, let it rest on the
edge of a table.
The new top nish is shown on the right. Mount
the tube at the top and bend the ap around it. The
head rest is optional.
a
Old version

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 8
Remove the rst two rivets. (1 and 2) Insert the
thick tube. Drill in the tube using the holes of the
removed rivets as a mould. Rivet the tube with the
two rivets.
Drill holes in the tube trough the front at 40 to
50 mm interval.
To get the proper drilling positions: see general techniques
/ nishing tube edges
Bend the remainder of the sheet around the tube
Use a rubber hammer, support the tube, let it rest
on the edge of a table
Seat in this picture is an older version with one additional ap
on the low end corners
Congratulations, your rst part is
nished! Store it in a safe place
Head rest (optional)
To mount the optional head rest, use the pre
drilled holes in the seat. If you wish to bend the
stainless steel support, it is best to remove it form
the holders and bend it in a bench-vice. Do not
bend it in sharp corners.
1
2

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 9
The Frame
The main frame is made out of CNC milled
aluminium parts. They are bolted together.
Because of this you will have the main structure
of your KV4 ready in no time.
This is an important change compared to the old Alleweder
The basic frame
structure
Important
Work on a table
Fasten all the bolts with Loctite 2701 or Freebond
1305 (not included)
Use washers
Be careful; the steel bolts are harder than the aluminium
parts, make sure that the screw is in the proper position and
angle before fastening. Aluminium is a softer material, so it
is easy to damage the thread.
Fasten the front
Keep the open side of frame to the back
You may need to take (le) some material form the notches
to make them t nicely
Fasten the back
Keep the open side of frame to the back
Use the M5 x 12 mm screws.
Careful: holes with thread in the rib may not be 90º to
the surface.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 10
Mount the middle sections of the frame.
Keep all the open side to the rear
Careful: the centre middle section can be mounted in many
ways. Only one is OK
The one screw marked in red (A) should go in rst
Mount the main chain roll.
Use a washer .
Do not use Loctite or Freebond here.
Chain tube with pre mounted strut
Mount the chain tube.
You need to drill two holes in the frame.
Make sure the end of the tube is close to the chain roll, but
can never touch it. Make sure to align the strut with the top
of the frame. Use a ruler to check this.
Mount the chain tube strut using two pop rivets
Attention: Don’t forget to put in a pop rivet at the
end (B) later when the sheet is in place
B
A

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 11
The rear fork mounting struts
(pivot points)
Mount the struts to the rear of the frame.
Put the rubber pivot units (a) in place.
Check the distance between them use the rear fork to see if it
ts in between. ( leave as little play as possible)
Mount the saddles over the pivot points.
Tighten the four screw equally. So that the base of the saddle
is more or less parallel to the strut.
Add the sheets to the top.
The long sheet is made red in this picture for clarity.
Careful! The long piece goes underneath. (contrary to what
is shown in picture)
Do not yet put in rivets at the end in area A.
Leave the last four rows open. Another part will go here
as well later
There has bee a change in the way these sheets
t together. The picture below shows the new
situation
Do not yet put in rivets in area B
The mounting rails for the seat come here later.
Careful! Make sure the frame is on a at table. If the frame
is warped while you attach the sheets the frame will remain
warped. In other words: the frame will not be straight
afterwards.
The crankshaft beam
Mount the crankshaft beam, screw the two
triangular struts to the (40mm) crankshaft beam.
The black plastic guide for the handlebar goes in
between the two triangular struts.
The frame (red in this picture for clarity) is in
between. The boom is mounted to the main frame
by four small screws at the end of the boom.
Make sure the serial number is at the top side.
Put in two rivets at the end (C)
Make sure the triangular struts are properly
aligned. They determine the position of the
boom!
B
A
A
B
a
C
New situation
Old situation

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 12
Polishing
If you like: It is worthwhile to polish the edges of the
triangular struts and the beam side panels. These will be
very visible to the driver.
Rivet the triangles from the bottom side.
You need a short rivet gun to do this
(max 240 mm long) Otherwise it will not t in the section.
If necessary, cut down an old or cheap rivet gut to size. You
will need it only here.
Mount the two side panels to the boom.
Holes need to be drilled and the boom to allow
for the M6 screws.
The black plastic clip for the handlebar goes in between
the two side panels.
The chain protection part, coloured green in this picture is
no longer used in newer versions of the KV4. A better and
lighter construction using a chain tube replaces it.
Please note the U shaped tube that forms the edge of the
feet hole (as shown in some photographs) is replaced by two
straight tubes that t into the front rib.
Mount the chain idler (roll) on the indicated location.
Please note, since this is a modication to how the return
chain is run, this detail is not shown in any of the pictures.
The bottom sheeting
Rivet the bottom sheeting
The side panels also contain holes for the thin tubes that
form in the front edges of the sheeting.
Mount these two tubes.
(Length 410 and 370 mm) If the holes are too tight,
make them larger using a le. Do not use excessive force.
The longer one goes in the lower position.
Turn the frame upside down, on two trestles.
Put the other two thin tubes, that form the edge of the feet
hole in position.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 13
Make sure to position and rivet the xation points
for the wheel suspension correctly rst.
Hammer the front edges of into shape.
Do this gently
Make sure the tube is riveted rmly to the sheet before you
start hammering.
Try the bracket holder
This is a good time to try the bracket holder on, as the
boom can now be easily reached. (This is still possible
after completing the fairing.)
Attention: make sure the side marked with K is
on the chain side.
Position the clamps so that the bolts can be reached
from the other side ( where the chain is not).
Remove the bracket holder again.
Assemble the chain tensioner.
To nd the right position clamp it to the boom ( clamp
shown in red) Make sure the chain idler is parallel to the
boom. Mount is as far to the edge as you can. (a bit further
out than shown on the picture) . Rivet it to the bottom of the
boom. Position can be changed later if need be.
Assemble the two inside plates of the wheel
housings
Assemble the two thin tubes (1000 mm x 10 mm)
but rst bend them in A.
Assemble the two mounts for the upper end of the
suspension.
Use the M6 x 20 bolts to fasten it to the main rib and the
M6 x 12 bolts to fasten it to the inner sheet of the wheel
housing.
Older version shown in the left picture.
Now struts are positioned lower than in the picture
(see right picture).
k
A
old version new version
C

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 14
The inside plates off the wheel housings need to be drilled
from the inside. You need a Right Angle Drill to do this.
Modication : The rivet holes at the bottom can now be
drilled from the outside. You still need the right angle drill
for the rivets that go into the strut
The pre-bent tubes need to be corrected to match
the exact form.
Is done easiest with the aid of a wooden plank with a gently
rounded hole.
Do this carefully. Little by little at the time. Make small
change and checked on the assembly. Be careful not to
buckle the tube! For bending see general techniques.
The wheel housings
Assemble the top plates of the wheel housings
Older version shown in these pictures.
In the present version the top plate is just one
piece.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 15
Make sure the bottom edge is parallel to the rib.
Contrary to what is shown in some pictures, this
is the right moment to fasten the outer edge tubes
of the wheel housing.
Here also the pre-bent tubes need to be corrected to match
the exact form. (see above)
Drill a 9 mm hole trough the mount for the upper
end of the front suspension
The bottom side sheets
Mount the two (about 131 cm long) tail oor tubes
(A) in the ribs.
For ease of transportation these tubes consist of two
parts (95 cm and 36 cm) that must be put together.
Attention: The 36cm parts go at the rear. Do not put these in
before you start working on the tail.
Cut the end going into the rib by the wheel
housing at an angle to match the rib.
Fasten the tube with a rivet in each rib.
The t is not so exact, but that is not a problem. Small
deformations are allowed.
Put the bottom side plate in position and fasten it.
Rivet the bottom edges (B) (that connect
to the bottom sheet) rst, then bend the
sheets and fasten further.
Please note: the bottom side plate goes underneath
the bottom sheet. See enlarged picture. If it is
difcult to see on you print have, a look at the
large pictures on the KV4 manual page on our
website
B
B
A

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 16
A
Hammer gently in A, right next to the xation
point for the suspension so that he plate can close
the edge properly.
Then rivet the rest of the sheet.
This is what you have so far
Hammer the edge gently around the tube.
This edge will be visible from the inside.
The tail oor
Now put the bottom of the tail section together.
Careful: Before you rivet the sides to the tubes make
sure the ends of the tubes are at the proper distance.
Check using the tail rib
You may want to use some silicon kit to make
the mudguard watertight.
If you want to apply paint, then wait until after painting.
Mount the two short tubes
Mount the other tube near the end
A

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 17
The “shoulder struts”
Attach the struts that will hold the rim tube (next
to where your shoulders will be) of the cockpit
opening rst to the small sheets Rivet the thin tube
on the opposite side of the sheet.
The good position: At the end of the ap of the sheet (A)
Attach this sub assembly to the ap on the tail
plate (E)
The top rear nose sheet
Rivet the top rear nose sheet (F) to the main rib
Start with the middle rivet. Then bend the sheet in shape
using tape.
Now only rivet about 200mm on each side. The rest comes
later.
The rim tube
Join the two parts of the tube that will form the
rim of the cockpit together. Drill a hole dim 6 mm
at the bottom side in B and C .
This is only lo let out any “mistake rivets” ( rivets that have
to be drilled out) The exact location is not important. It has
to be more or less at the lowest point.
B
C
Top
detail A
A
E
F

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 18
Drill two rivet holes in the rim tube, both exactly
in the middle.
One in the front middle (F) at the op and one in the back
middle at the top (R).
Position the rim tube with tape.
Important: At the front (F), the top of the tube
must be 610 to 620 mm above the oor sheet
(middle section) at the rear (R), the top of the tube
must be 455 to 465 mm above the tail oor sheet.
If you do not get these dimensions right, you may
nd that some of the sheets will not t! It is a good
idea to use a piece of wood, cut at the proper length,
as a temporary mould that the rim tube can rest on.
Make sure the centre holes in the front and rear are in the
middle.
Check by looking carefully and by measuring a
distance left and right if it is symmetrical.
Adjust by repositioning or by gently applying force until it
is.
Fasten the side sheet to the outside of the tube at
an about 45º angle.
Important: Make sure you have about 15 mm overlap in the
wheel housings. You will need this later to fasten the edge of
the sheet to the tube in the wheel housing.
Then tape the sheet in position.
Use enough layers of tape to get it really nice in position.
Rivet it to the rim tube.
Use the self made tool to nd the centre of the
tube.
Attention: Do not yet rivet the side sheets to the top rear
nose sheet or to the wheel housing.
Use just two rivets at the rear to fasten it to the
ribs.
If you look carefully you will nd that the outside shape of
the rib is not a smooth curve, but that it consists of several
straight lines . Find two spots in the middle of these straight
lines so that the head of the pop rivet does not interfere with
the curved shape of the sheeting. Use a le to take away
some material of the head if necessary.
F
R
45º
1
2

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 19
Drill a rivet hole in the top of the tail rib.
Make sure it is exactly in the centre.
Mount the tail rib.
The tail rib is changed slightly to include a grip.
On the left the original that is used in the KV4 that was built
for the manual. On the right the new one.
Cut away the surplus of the small side sheets at
the top.
Do the same with the small tubes.
So that they will not interfere with the tail sheeting.
The tail sheet
Rivet the two halves of the tail sheet and the little
triangle at the front together.
Position the tail sheet over the tail rib and the rim
tube.
Put the 2 centre rivets in, to keep in position.
Tape the sheet in shape.
Attention: If you do not handle the sheet carefully you may
create a buckle in one of the two “front aps” This will not
harm the performance but it will damage the looks a
bit. Make sure the tail is symmetrical. In this stage it
is very easy to deform the tail oor so that the tail
rib tilts to left or right. Make sure you correct this
befog you start drilling and riveting. Use several layers
of tape to get the sheet nice and tight in position.
Attention: Check symmetry again.

Dutch Speed Bicycles
Builders manual KV4 Velomobile kit
Most pictures also on www.dutchbikes.nl
version: KV4_1.9 page 20
B
A
C
Start riveting from the top of the tail rib.
Then work your way down from the top of the rim tube.
Use intervals of 40 mm. Use the self made tool to nd the
middle of the 8 mm thick rib
Now check if the front edge of the sheet is still nice and tight
against the side plates. If necessary remove tape an apply
new tape or add tape. Make sure the tail sheet is also tight
against the tail oor tube.
Rivet the front edges working your way down
form the top.
A special technique is needed to get the sheet as
straight as possible. Drill at an angle, holding the
drill slightly downwards. Insert the rivet at the same
angle. Before fastening the rivet pull the rivet gun
downwards, forcing the rivet at a straight angle again.
In this way the outer sheet is pulled down a bit. Now fasten
the rivet, while holding the gun in this position.
Rivet along the tail oor tubes
The nose
Drill a hole in the top centre of the nose rib.
Mount the nose rib to the boom.
Distance between the main rib at the top (A) should be 850
mm. Distance over the boon from the inside of the nose rib
to the end of the boom (B) should be 784 mm.
Please note that the tubes running to the nose rib are
different than shown in the photograph with the A, B and
C marks
Fasten the nose rib with just 2 rivets.
You will need the right angle drill to do this.
More rivets will follow later.