Evolution ENIGMA User manual

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ELECTRIC and GLOW VERSION
Evolution Models Kits Include:
Recommended Setup
Precision Laser Cut Balsa, Ply and Depron
35-46 cu. in. Glow or Electric Equivalent
High Quality Comprehensive Hardware Pack
Four Micro Servos (JP Supatec MG 2BB) + Throttle
All Sheet and Strip Wood
Comprehensive Step by Step Instruction Manual
V2

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Introduction
The Enigma is a lightweight highly manoeuvrable model designed for the sport flyer or aerobatic pilot. The
airframe is strong and robust, but lightweight enough to perform any manoeuvre you desire with precision
and ease. We know you will not be disappointed with the performance of the Enigma and we also hope that
we have also designed a model that is simple and satisfying to construct.
If you wish to give us any feed back please do so at [e-mail]
We hope you enjoy the Enigma as much as we have here at Evolution Models.
Building Recommendations
Check all parts from the box to ensure that they are present; if not then please contact us at the e-mail
address at the back of the instructions. We do, from time to time, make mistakes!!
Ensure that you use a completely flat base on which to build the model, this should be large enough the build
the wing 50” (1270mm) x 16” (400mm) as a minimum.
Read through the instructions before starting to build, understand each step before applying glue. Take your
time building the model, building a straight and strong model will ensure it will fly well! We know the
instruction booklet is large, but it is mainly pictures and illustrations to provide clear concise construction
steps.
The glue detailed in the instructions is for guidance only; this is what we used for the prototypes. It is at the
builder discretion which glue is used, but ensure that it is suitable for the intended purpose. Always read the
application instructions to ensure you achieve a strong joint. Depron is a foam material, standard Cyano will
attack and melt it, always use foam safe glue. Aliphatic Wood Glue is recommended if the joint may require
sanding. Aliphatic white wood glue sands at the same rate as the balsa and therefore will not leave any glue
lines.
Once you have removed the laser cut part from their sheets keep the remaining sheets, some of this will be
used throughout the build process.
Balsa is a hardwood and therefore a mask should always be worn when any sanding is required.
Make sure the mask provides suitable protection from hardwood or airborne dusts. We also suggest
you sand outside in free air away from anyone else.
This radio controlled model is not a toy. It can cause serious injury to the operator, public and property if
misused or abused. Ensure that you carefully read all the instructions supplied with this kit and instructions
provided with the engine and radio control system or any other components purchased separately. Also
make sure that any parts bought separately are suitable for their application.
This kit contains small and potentially sharp parts, keep away from children.
Additional Materials Required
Recommended Tools
Uhu Por
Foam Safe Cyano
Standard Thin or Medium Cyano
Aliphatic Wood Glue
Epoxy Resin
Tinned Copper Wire (For Undercarriage)
Solder
Heat Shrink Covering Material
Engine and Mount (ESC for electric variations)
Radio Gear
Modelling Knife
Razor Plane
Set Square
Sand Paper
Sanding Block
Blow Torch
Drill and Drill Bits
Pop Rivet Gun
Building Board – Completely flat 1300 x 400mm Min
Bradawl

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Enigma Part List
Wood Pack
Sheet Metric (mm)
Sheet Imperial (in)
Quantity
Description
1220 x 75 x 1.5
48 x 3 x 1/16
2
Leading Edge Sheeting
1220 x 18 x 1.5
48 x 6/8 x 1/16
4
Trailing Edge Sheeting
915 x 100 x 1.5
36 x 4 x 1/16
1
Webbing
915 x 100 x 1.5
36 x 3 x 1/16
1
Wing Centre Sheeting
915 x 75 x 3
36 x 3 x 1/8
1
Bottom, Top Deck Sheeting and Wing Tips
Strip Metric (mm)
Strip Imperial (in)
Quantity
Description
1220 x 25 x 6
48 x 1 x ¼
1
Leading Edge
1220 x 9.5 x 6
48 x 3/8 x ¼
2
Main Spars
1220 x 6 x 6
48 x 1/4 x ¼
1
Trailing Edge Spar
915 x 9.5 x 6
36 x 3/8 x ¼
2
Tail plane, Rudder, Elevator Strip
915 x 6 x 1.5
36 x 1/4 x 1/16
5
Wing Capping
500 x 6
36 x ¼ Dowel
1
Elevator Pushrod
Hardware Pack
1
Tail Wheel Assembly
1
6
2" Wheels
2
Horns
5
Wing Bolt
2
Horn Backs
3
Captive Nut
2
Horn Bolts
8
7
Dowels (110mm)
1
2
Horn Nuts
8
9
Mylar (20cm)
1
Closed Loop Wire
1.8m
Metal Clevis
6
Hatch Latch Magnets
2
Plastic Snap Link
2
10
Washers
2
CL Adaptors
2
Crimps
4
11
Hatch Mount 1/4 x 1/4 Spruce
1
3
CL Lock Nuts (M2)
6
Tank
1
4
Threaded Rods
4
Bowden (300mm)
1
Nipple Links
1
Saddle Clamps
4
12
Glow
Only
Fuel Tube (300mm)
1
Screws 6 x 3/8
8
5
10swg Wheel Collets
2
13
Stickers
2

3
Laser Cut Parts
2
1
3
4
5
5
3
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
21
23
24
25
27
26
26
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
43
42
44
45
46
47

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Part No.
Description
Quantity
Sheet Size
1
Tailplane / Fin Support
2
3mm (1/8") Balsa
2
Left and Right Upper Fuselage Sides
2
3mm (1/8") Balsa
3
Left and Right Lower Fuselage Sides
2
3mm (1/8") Balsa
4
Wing Centre Web
1
3mm (1/8") Balsa
5
Wing Doublers
2
3mm (1/8") Balsa
6
Fin Rear Section
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
7
Fin Centre Section
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
8
Upper Backbone
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
9
Lower Backbone
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
10
Rudder Base
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
11
Fin Front Section
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
12
Rudder Trailing Edge
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
13
Rudder top
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
14
Rudder Leading Edge
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
15
Tailplane Leading Edge
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
16
Elevator Trailing Edge
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
17
Elevator Inner Tips
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
18
Tailplane Centre Section
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
19
Tailplane Trailing Edge
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
20
Elevator Leading Edge
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
21
Elevator Outer Tips
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
22
Tailplane Tips
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
23
Fuselage Top
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
24
Wing Tips
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
25
Fuselage Bottom Front Section
1
6mm (1/4") Balsa
26
Aileron Tips
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
27
Ailerons
2
6mm (1/4") Balsa
28
Upper Fuselage Sides
2
3mm (1/8") Balsa
29
U/C Inner Plate
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
30
U/C Outer Plate
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
31
Aileron Servo Mounts
2
3mm (1/8”) Ply
32
Wing Mounting Plate (Fuselage)
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
33
Tail Skid Inner
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
34
F3
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
35
Tail Skid Outer
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
36
Battery Mounting Plate
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
37
F4
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
38
Wing Mounting Plate (Wing)
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
39
F1
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
40
F2
1
3mm (1/8”) Ply
41
Hatch Magnet Bracket
2
3mm (1/8”) Ply
42
Control Exit Doublers
3
1mm (1/32”) Ply
43
Fuselage Doublers
2
1mm (1/32”) Ply
44
U/C Front Leg
1
3.5mm (10swg) Wire
45
U/C Rear Leg
1
3.5mm (10swg) Wire
46
Elevator Joiner
1
3.5mm (10swg) Wire
47
U/C Strengtheners
2
3.5mm (10swg) Wire

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Building Instructions
FIN AND RUDDER
Take the three parts that form the fin (Parts 6, 7 and 11), trial fit before gluing together. The bottom of the fin
will be trimmed down later to match the rudder height in final assembly.
Remove the four pre-cut parts (Parts 10, 12, 13 and 14) of the rudder from the cutting sheets; trial fit the
parts before gluing together using white wood glue. Ensure that the leading edge, top and bottom rails are at
90° then add the trailing edge.
Take the supplied strip of 9mm (3/8”) x 6mm (1/4”) and cut to length to form the four centre rails. Mark a
centre line on the leading edge and chamfer to a 45° angle with a razor plane to make the pivot point into
which the hinges will be inserted.
With a sharp knife cut the slots for three hinges 15mm (5/8”) from the top and bottom. Cut 10mm (3/8”)
strips from the supplied Mylar hinge material and insert into the hinge slots; 50% in the rudder and 50% into
the fin. Ensure that you get at least 45° free movement either way.
Do not glue the hinges in at this stage! Sand all parts to a smooth finish and round off the leading edge of
the fin ready for covering.
TAIL PLANE
Take the five laser cut parts (Parts 15, 18, 19 and 22(2)) and trial fit. Ensure the tips are at 90° to the leading
and trailing edge before gluing with white wood glue.

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With the supplied strip of 9mm (3/8”) x 6mm (1/4”) cut to length to form the eight centre rails, glue in place
with white wood glue.
Take the eight pre-cut parts (Parts 16(2), 17(2), 20(20), 21(2)) which form the elevators, trial fit, ensure the
tips are at 90° to the leading and trailing edge before gluing. With a supplied strip of 9mm (3/8”) x 6mm (1/4”)
cut to length to form the six centre rails, glue in place with white wood glue.
Mark the centre line of the leading edge with a pencil and chamfer either side to a 45° angle with a razor
plane to make the pivot point into which the hinges will be inserted. Mark the centre of the trailing edge and
carefully chamfer the elevator to a 1mm point from the leading edge.
With a sharp knife cut 2 slots in each elevator to accept the hinges, ensure that the elevator sits centrally on
the tail plane. Cut 10mm (3/8”) strips from the supplied Mylar hinge material and insert into the hinge slots,
50% in the elevator and 50% into the tail plane. Ensure that you get at least 45° free movement either way
as the rudder is set out above.
With the elevators hinged to the tail plane place the joiner (Part) centrally on the elevator and mark its
position, cut the leading edge off up to the outer mark to allow the joiner to be recessed into the elevator and
drill a hole centrally into the elevator. Make the hole slightly larger than the coupler for adjustment later.

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Do not glue the hinges or coupler in at this stage. Sand all parts to a smooth finish and round off the
leading edge of the tail plane ready for covering.
FUSELAGE
At this point the decision needs to be made whether the glow or electric version is being made. If the
glow version is your choice then the balsa nose section and ply doubler need to be cut as shown
below. Carefully cut these sections off with a straight edge and sharp knife.
Lay the upper and lower main fuselage sides (Parts 2(2) and 3(2)) on the work bench ensuring that you have
a left and right hand side. Make sure there is a good glue joint between these sections; if required lightly
sand the mating edges to achieve this. Once satisfied these sections are properly aligned glue together and
add the 1mm (1/32”) ply doubler (Part 43 (2)) with a thin layer of white wood glue. Make sure the entire
doubler has glue on it and weigh down to allow dry. Glue the control exit doublers (Part 42 (3)) to the rear of
the fuselage.
Glue F2, F3, and the wing seat doublers (Parts 40, 34 and 5) in place as indicated by the cut outs marks on
the ply doubler. Use a set square to ensure they are 90° to the fuselage sides. Glue the three control exit
doublers (Part 42(3)) to the rear of the fuselage.

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Add the second fuselage side, lining the Formers up with the cut outs. Use a set square to check that the
fuselage sides are parallel on all sides, make minor adjustments if necessary. Make time to get this right,
if the sides are not parallel the model will be out of square.
With a scrap piece of 6mm (1/4”) balsa sheet, cut a 6mm (1/4”) post for the rear section of the fuselage. Glue
the fin and tail plane plates (Parts 1(2)), Former F4 (Part 37) to one side of the fuselage. Once dry, pull the
fuselage sides together; the fin and tail plane plates should fit into the corresponding slots. Make sure that
the sides are pulled in equally and the sides are parallel. If necessary draw a line on you work bench to
ensure the sides are pulled into a centre line . Take time to get this right or the fuselage will be out of
alignment. Once satisfied, glue in position. Former F4 should be fitted on the notches on the fuselage
sides.
Take the upper and lower backbone (Parts 8 and 9), line up the front edge of the upper piece 12.5mm (1/2”)
back from the front edge of the lower piece and glue in place. Allow to dry before moving onto the next
stage. Mark a line with a pencil from the bottom of the lower backbone through the bottom of the upper
backbone as shown in the right-hand picture below, carefully cut this section off.
Mark the point at the top of the front slope 6mm (1/4”) in from either edge and draw guide lines down to the
rear of the backbone and front section. The lines on top taper out to the rear of the backbone (at the rear of

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the fin slot). With a razor plane and sandpaper, shape the backbone to these guide lines as shown in the
picture on the right of the next page.
Place the backbone with the front sloping edge on F3 and gradually sand the rear section until it touches F4
as shown in the diagram below. Test fit the upper fuselage sides (Part 28(2)) and when satisfied glue the
backbone in place.
With sandpaper and block or a razor plane, gently run along the bottom of the upper fuselage sides to create
a bevel which will provide a better fit where they join the fuselage. See the diagram above. Once satisfied
glue in place using aliphatic wood glue to make sanding easier later.
Epoxy the two F1 Former pieces together (Parts 39), these are the correct size for the glow version. If
building the electric version cut F1 down so that it measures 67mm x 50mm. Drill the centre of F1 if building
the glow version to create a 15mm dia. Hole to allow the fuel tubing to exit the tank bay. If building the
electric version place the battery retaining plate (Part 36) in its locating lugs before gluing in position with F1
using epoxy resin. Use clamps or elastic bands to hold the fuselage sides together and protect the sides
using scrap balsa.

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Add some scrap balsa to the area between F1 and F2 to give a greater gluing area as shown in the right
hand picture below. Glue the main undercarriage plates together (Parts 29 and 30) before gluing to the
bottom of the fuselage with epoxy.
Glue the undercarriage plate in place followed the bottom deck (Part 25). If you are building the glow
version cut off the front section as shown on the right below.
To fit the top front deck (Part 23), first cut off the front section over hanging F1 if building the glow version.
If building the glow version glue the top deck in place as shown below.
If building the electric version then the top deck will also form the battery hatch, cut the top deck 2-3mm in
front of F2, glue the rear section in place. Take the ply hatch magnet brackets (Parts 41(2)) and glue in
position below up against F2 and under the 2mm lip. Glue a scrap piece of ply under the hole and glue the
magnet in place.
Parts 41

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Place the washers provided on top of the magnets and push the remaining top deck down onto them to
leave an imprint in the underside of the balsa, carefully carve this area to allow the washer to sit flush with
the surface and maintain contact with the magnets.
6mm back from front edge of the hatch glue the 25 x 6 x 6mm (1” x ¼” x ¼”) spruce section with epoxy,
check that the hatch fits properly. Drill a 1.5mm hole through F1 into the spruce and glue a short section of
the excess aileron control rod into the spruce to form a peg. The hatch is then fitted to the fuselage with the
wire peg into the hole in F1 and magnets hold down the trailing edge. Using some scrap sheet to form two
‘runners’ to run along the edge and locate the hatch between the fuselage sides.
Glue together the tail wheel plates (Parts 33 and 35) and glue on the bottom rear raised section of the
fuselage using epoxy resin. Part 33 should fit between the fuselage sides and Part 35 on top.
Sheet the front ‘cockpit’ section of the fuselage and the rear bottom deck from the rear of the wing to the tail
wheel mount using the sheet of 3mm (1/8”) balsa sheet supplied.

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With a hammer, carefully knock the captive nuts into the wing mounting plate (Part 32), making sure the nuts
are square to the plate so that the bolts will engage squarely when inserted through the wing. Glue the plate
in the notch on the wing doubler plates at the predefined angle.
Finally sand the fuselage to a smooth finish, rounding off the back bone, front top and bottom deck. Use a
fine grade paper to finish just before covering.
WING AND AILERONS
When building the wing make sure the ribs are the right way up, although the section is symmetrical
the internal cut outs are not. The ribs are shown below in their correct orientation. Take care to get
this right!
Using the supplied sheet of 915mm (36”) x 100mm (4”) x 1.5mm (1/16”) balsa, cut the webbing pieces as
shown below.
Depron Wing - Webbing
W1
W2
W3
W4
W5

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Use a slow setting glue for the next few stages to give you time to align the wing. Read this section carefully
first before attempting to glue (please ignore the ribs shown in the photos, these were from an earlier
version. Follow the W1 – W5 guide above)
Begin building the wing by placing a 1220mm (48”) x 9.5mm (3/8”) x 6mm (1/4”) spar on the building board.
Check it is straight with a straight edge and mark the centre win a pencil.
Take the centre webbing piece (Part 4) and glue this to the centre of the lower spar.
Glue the two centre ribs next to them and gradually work out evenly along the length of the wing, setting out
the distances between the ribs to correspond with the diagram above. Make sure the ribs are pushed all the
way onto the bottom spar then add the top spar.
Put glue in the ‘U’ shaped cut out at the trailing edge (TE) and insert the TE spar (1220mm (48”) x 6mm
(1/4”) x 6mm (1/4”). The slot may be non existent on some of the Depron ribs due to the way that they are
laser cut – this is not a problem, just ensure the TE sits on the centre. Un-pin the main spar and allow the
TE to rest on the board. Check the TE for straightness, pin it down and re-pin the main spar.

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Check all the ribs are at 90° to the main spar and leave to dry. Undertaking the above in one step will
ensure that the wing is true and warp free, just make sure you have enough drying time to complete the
process.
Continue by drilling an 8mm hole in the centre of the 1220mm (48”) x 25mm (1”) x 6mm (1/4”) leading edge
(LE) and glue to the front of the ribs. The hole should be placed centrally on the wing in-line with the hole in
the webbing piece.
Cut the leading edge flush with the end ribs and using a razor plane gradually shave the balsa down to follow
the contour of the rib, as shown in the right hand picture below.
We suggest for the next stage you use aliphatic white wood glue. To sheet the leading edge take the
supplied sheet of 1220mm (48”) x 75mm (3”) x 1.6mm (1/16”), apply glue from the centre line of the top spar,
to the top of the ribs and LE. Place the edge of the sheet on the centre line of the top spar and securely pin
it down along its length. Roll the sheet down onto the LE, and again securely pin along its length, make sure
the sheet is in contact with the ribs. Using a piece of parcel tape will prevent the sheet from splitting as you
roll it over the ribs.

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Repeat this with the TE 1220mm (48”) x 25mm (1”) x 1.5mm (1/16”) sheet. Using the supplied sheet of
915mm (36”) x 100mm (4”) x 1.5mm (1/16”) balsa sheet the centre section (across the 4 centre ribs). The
remaining sheet will be used for the underside centre sheeting.
Un-pin the wing from the board and turn over, re-pin making sure that the TE is straight with a straight edge.
The first three ribs on each side have holes cut into the triangular bracing; these are for the servo leads. To
make the installation neater roll tubes of paper narrower than the hole, but the same length as the rib
spacing. Thread the tube through holes, enlarge the diameter of the tube so it fits neatly in the hole and
secure the rolled joint with Sellotape. Add a couple of dabs of glue at the rib to hold securely in place.
At the trailing edge, between the two centre ribs, pack out with scrap balsa from the sheeting to flush with the
top surface. This will strengthen the area where the wing bolts are to be installed. The centre line of the
both will be 35mm from the trailing edge so make this the centre line of the packing.
25mm from the centre of the packing to the rear of the trailing edge
Repeat the sheeting process for the bottom of the wing. Cut off any excess balsa sheet or spars flush with
the end rib once the wing has dried. Shape the leading edge using a razor plane and finish with sandpaper,
check the fitment to the fuselage as form the LE, make sure the LE is round with no flat spots.
Using the strips of 6mm (1/4”) x 1.5mm (1/16”) x 915mm (36”) balsa cap the top and bottom of the ribs

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With the wing upside down on the bench mark the centre line on the TE, measure 25mm and draw a line
parallel with the TE. Mark the centre line on the wing bolt support (Part 38) and glue in position.
With a drill held at 90oto the wing surface carefully drill a hole through the plate and through the wing for the
wing bolts. Drilling through at 90oto the plate this should precisely marry up with the internal wing nut
support in the fuselage, if it does not then enlarge the hole slightly to allow for a small amount of movement
to allow the bolt to locate with the nut.
Take the wing tips (Part 24 (2)) and glue on the centre line of the end rib, using the excess 1/8th sheet from
the fuselage bottom and spare main sheets cut triangular supports and construct each tip as shown below.
Use an off cut of 3mm (1/8”) balsa for the fillet at the rear adjacent to the aileron (pictured right below).
Install the wing servo mounts (Part 24 (2)). Enlarge the hole in the centre to fit your chosen servos. Use
scrap balsa at the front and rear of the mount, up to the wing surface, to create a `well`. The covering will
later be cut away to mount the servo.
Take the two ailerons and tips (Parts 26(2) and 27(2)) and glue together. Mark a centre line on the leading
edge and chamfer to a 45° angle with a razor plane to make the pivot point into which the hinges will be
inserted. Mark the centre of the trailing edge and carefully chamfer the elevator to a 1mm point from the
leading edge.
LE TE
With a sharp knife cut the slots for three hinges. Cut 10mm (3/8”) strips from the supplied Mylar hinge
material and insert into the hinge slots; 50% in the aileron and 50% into the centre of the 6mm (1/4”) trailing

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edge. Ensure that you get at least 45° free movement either way. Do not glue the hinges in at this stage!
Sand all parts to a smooth finish and round off the leading edge of the fin ready for covering.
COVERING
Before covering seat the wing, tail plane and fin and make sure that they all fit. Make any alterations as
necessary with fine sandpaper and a block. Finally sand all parts to provide a smooth, blemish free surface
ready for covering.
This is your chance to express yourself; unlike the ARTF models on the market you can now choose your
own colour scheme. The prototype models were covered in Solarfilm, but the choice is yours. Make sure
that you follow the manufactures recommendations when applying the film. We would recommend applying
a surface sealant to the area around F1 so that the film adheres better in areas where it is likely to be
exposed to glow fuel (glow version). We also recommend that you apply a glow fuel sealant to the tank
compartment of the fuselage. Follow the manufactures recommendations when applying. Ensure when you
cover the model you do not introduce any warps, cover each section and evenly tighten the covering on both
sides. Ensure when you have finished covering all parts they are straight and true.
UNDERCARRIAGE AND TAILWHEEL
Draw two lines on a piece of scrap ply 40mm apart. Place the front leg and rear leg (Parts 44 and 45) on
each of the lines and screw down using the supplied 10swg saddle clamps and screws. Make any minor
adjustments with pliers to make sure that the legs are parallel where they are to be bound.
Clean the tops of the legs with sandpaper or wire wool to remove any dirt or lubricants ready to solder. Pull
the legs together so that they join as shown in the photograph. Bind together using tinned copper wire.
We advise wearing gauntlets at this for this process. Heat the wire using a blowtorch and feed solder into
the joint, ensuring that you flood the joint to make it strong. Clean off the excess with a damp cloth; do not
touch the leg as it will be extremely hot. Repeat for both sides. Once cool remove from the scrap ply. Save
the clamps and screws. Insert the undercarriage support pieces (Part 47(2)) in the same way as shown
below.
Take the supplied tail wheel assembly and bend the wire through 90oas close the plastic bracket as
possible. Create a half loop approximately 25mm from the plastic mount and cut off the excess wire. Cut off
the plastic tab on the bottom of the assembly to allow the bracket to sit on the ply plate, and screw in the
screws supplied.
Create the wire piece as shown in the picture below and inset into the rudder so that the two loops are
approximately 25mm apart, cut a slot in the bottom of the rudder so that the wire can sit into the rudder with
the loop exposed, glue in place with Cyano. Join the two loops with a rubber band once the fin has been
glued in position.

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Once the fuselage has been covered, line the undercarriage up with the centre of the two mounting plates.
Attach the undercarriage, ensuring it is square to the fuselage with the screws provided through the pre-
drilled holes. Make sure the axles are at 90° to the centreline of the fuselage. Minor adjustments can be
made with pliers or mole grips, just ensure that you hold the undercarriage legs and not the fuselage when
doing this to prevent damaging the fuselage.
Place the wheel on the axle, then place the 10 SWG collet on the axle and tighten the grub screw making
sure that it rotates freely.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Wing
Take the fully covered wings and ailerons, glue the hinges 50% into the aileron using a thin Cyano and
ensure that it penetrates into the slots both top and bottom. Slot the hinges into the corresponding slots on
the wing. Move the aileron full travel (min 45°) to ensure that there is no resistance and repeat the gluing
process. Repeat this for the second aileron. Due to the large control surfaces we would recommend pinning
the hinges, but this is left to the builder’s discretion.
Install the servos in to the wing and feed the wires through the tubes. Pull the wires out at the centre section
where the sheeting was cut earlier. Drill pilot holes and securely screw the servos into place using the
fixings supplied with the servo. Centre the servo and attach a single arm horn and make up the pushrod as
shown below. Install the control horn to the aileron using ht bolts and back plate as supplied.
Glue the 95mm (3 ¾”) wing dowel into the bottom wing and cut to size so that 10mm extends from the wing
Fuselage
Fit the wing to the fuselage so that it is firmly seated, but able to move for minor adjustment. With a tape
measure check that the fuselage is square to the wing as per the diagram. Ensure A1 = A2.

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Insert the tail plane into its slot and check the measurement B1 = B2. Once satisfied that the tail plane is
square, mark with a pencil both top and bottom along the edge of the fuselage. Remove the tail plane from
its slot and carefully cut 1/16” (1.5mm) on the inside of the line. To remove the covering film from both the
top and bottom, and glue into place making sure it is parallel to the wings.
Check the fin, when inserted is parallel with the rear of the fuselage; use a straight edge to check, cut the
bottom of the fin to achieve this and so that it is the overall length is the correct height for the
rudder.
Take the fin and insert into the slot. With a pencil mark along the fuselage as with the tail plane, remove the
fin and remove the covering from 1.5mm (1/16”) below the line.
!!! Warning. Only cut through the film, do not cut into the balsa when cutting the fin and tail plane as this will
weaken them and may cause it to fail in flight!!!
Re-insert the fin and make sure that the cut-out in the base of the fin lines up with the tail plane slot. Insert
the tail plane to confirm. One satisfied with the fit, glue the fin into position, ensure that the fin is vertical.
Take the rudder and elevator and glue the hinges, up to 50% of their depth. Glue using a thin Cyano and
ensure that it penetrates into the slots both top and bottom.