Evolution Equaliser E2K User manual

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Evolution Models
Equaliser E2K Instruction Manual

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Evolutions Equaliser E2K has been designed to comply with the UK Pylon Racing rules. Originally designed for
club competition the equaliser provided a single class racer making it equal(iser) for all who entered. The racing
was fast and close, even using a 3s battery, which made the competitions fun and not too fast so it was open to
all.
The model is of simple construction to make the competition accessible to all and it is easy to fly and aimed at
the intermediate to advanced pilot. The Equaliser on full throttle is fast and cuts through the air with a satisfying
whistle, but throttle back and it will slow down and become as gentle to fly as a glider. The speed range is
astonishing!
The laser cut parts simply slot together to provide a lightweight structure without compromising strength. The
Equaliser E2K is simple and satisfying to build for both the amateur and experienced builder.
Building Recommendations
Check all parts from the box to ensure that they are present; if not then please contact us at the e-mail address
at the back of the instructions. We do from time to time make mistakes!!
Ensure that you use a completely flat base on which to build the model, this should be large enough the build
the wing 39” (1000mm) x 16” (400mm) as a minimum.
Carefully remove the parts from the laser cut sheet by cutting the tabs, do not snap out. Retain some of the
scrap material to use during the build.
Read through the instructions before starting to build, understand each step before applying glue.
The glue detailed in the instructions is for a guide only, this is what we used for the prototypes, it is at the builder
discretion which glue is used, but ensure that it is suitable for the intended purpose. Always read the
application instructions to ensure you achieve a strong joint. Always read the safety instructions supplied with
your chosen glue.
Take your time building the model, build a straight and strong model, this will ensure the model will fly well!
Enjoy. Building is part of aero modelling!
This radio-controlled model is not a toy. It can cause serious injury to the operator, public and property if
misused or abused. Ensure that you read all the instructions supplied with this kit and instructions provided with
the engine and radio control system or any other components purchased separately carefully. Also, make sure
that any parts bought separately are suitable for their application.
Always sand balsa and ply using a suitable face fit mask, and where possible outside away from others.
The kit contains small and potentially sharp parts, keep away from children.
Additional Materials Required
Recommended Tools
Standard Thin or Medium Cyano
Cyano Activator
Aliphatic Wood Glue
Epoxy Resin
Loctite
Covering Material
Radio Gear
Motor
ESC
Modelling Knife
Razor Plane
Set Square
Sand Paper
Sanding Block
Drill
Drill Bits
Building Board – Completely flat 1000 x 400mm Min
Bradawl
The rules for the design of this model have been taken from the UK pylon racing website
(http://www.ukpylonracing.co.uk/). Should you wish to enter the National E2K Championships then ensure your
model complies with the rules and any subsequent changes.

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E2K Part List
Wood Pack
Hardware Pack
Description
Quantity
100mm Pushrods 2
450m
m Pushrod
1
Pushrod connectors 3
M3 Captive Nuts
5
Control Horns
and bolts
3
70 x 6mm Dowel 1
Mylar hinge strip
1
Spruce Bearer 4
Description
Sheet Size
Quantity
Metric
Imperial
Leading and Trailing Edge Sheet 1.5 x 100 x 915mm 1/16 x 3 x 36” 2
Leading Edge
6 x 12.5 x 915mm
¼ x ½ x 36”
1
Wing Spars
6 x 6 x 915mm
¼ x ¼ x 36”
2
Trailing Edge Spar 6 x 3 x 915mm ¼ x 1/8 x 36” 1
Wing Centre Section Sheet
1.5 x 75 x 915mm
1/16 x 3 x 36”
1
Fuselage Bottom and Front Deck Sheet 3 x 75 x 915mm 1/8 x 3 x 36” 1
Rib Capping Strips
1.5 x 6 x 915mm
1/16 x 1/4 x 36”
3
Fuselage Triangular Fillet 6 x 6 x 915mm 1/4 x 1/4 x 36” 3

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Description
Part Number
Wing Main Spar 1
Fuselage Sides
2
Fin 3
Tail plane
and Elevator
4
F5
–
Tail plane
plate
5
Wing Servo Plate Inner 6
Fuselage Wing Plate (2)
7
F2 – Fuselage Wing Dowel Plate 8
Wing Bolt Plate
9
F1 – Main Bulkhead (2) 10
Wing Tips
11
F4
–
Fuselage Former
12
F3 – Fuselage Former and Servo Plate 13
Wing Servo Plate Face
14
Hatch Parts (5) 16
Fuselage Bottom Doubler
17
1
2
6
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
16
W1
W2
W3
W4
W5
14
12
13
17
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Wing
Lay the main spar (Part 1) on the board and glue a ¼ x ¼ x 36” (6 x 6 x 915mm) spar on the read bottom edge.
Cut to length between the outer two rib slots. Once dry flip over so the slots face up. Using a straight edge pin
to the board ensuring it is completely straight and vertical.
Slot the ribs as laid out on the drawing below.
Use a scrap piece of wood to support the trailing edge and glue in the 1/4 x 1/8 x 36 (3 x 6 x 915mm) trailing
edge spar. Use a square to ensure all ribs are at 90o

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Glue the wing Bolt Plate (Part 9) in place. Take the ¼ x ½ x 36” (6 x 12.5 x 915mm) leading edge and drill a
6mm hole in the centre, glue to the ribs ensuring the hole is central and in line with the hole in the main spar to
accept the wing dowel later. Also glue the upper main spar in place.
Using a piece of the 1/16 x 3 x 36” (1.5 x 75 x 915mm) sheets carefully measure and mark 63mm back from the
long edge. Cut the sheet down its length to form the leading and trailing edge sheet. Glue in place as shown
below, the edge of the sheet from the leading edge should be approximately halfway across the main spar.
Ensure the sheeting is fully glued to the leading edge so when shaped later it cannot pull away.
Once the sheeting has fully dried to the leading edge run additional glue over the top of the ribs, as far as you
can reach without having to lift the sheeting. Roll the sheeting down on to the top of the ribs and main spar,
starting from the centre run thin cyano between the sheet and spar working towards the tip.
Sheet the centre section between W2 and W2 with 1/16 x 3 x 36” (1.5 x 75 x 915mm) sheet. Cap over the top
of the remaining ribs with 1/16 x ¼ x 36” (1.5 x 6 x 915mm) strip wood between the leading and trailing edge.

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Turn the wing over and repeat the sheeting process to the underside. The leading edge sheet will be a little
narrower approximately 60mm. Check before cutting the sheet along its length. Glue two scraps of balsa or ply
either side of the Wing Bolt Plate to provide additional support, and flush with the ribs. Carefully drill through the
wing bolt hole and 1/16th sheeting.
Glue the Wing Servo Face Plate outers into the notched slots on the underside of the rib, set the inner part to
one side. Glue a scrap piece of ply, as shown by the arrows below, to support the centre sheeting
Repeat the centre sheeting as for the top wing notching around the servo plates. Glue the capping pieces in
place. All sheeting should be level with the servo plates.
Sand the entire wing and shape the leading edge checking the profile with one of the fuselage sides.

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Glue the tips (Parts 11) on to W5 at 90o from the centre of the LE, through the triangulated part of the main spar
to the centre of the TE. Where the tip extends past the trailing edge a triangular fillet will be required to support
the covering.
Place the Wing Servo Plate Inner inside the wing between ribs W2 and W3. Glue in place and check that the
face place holes line up with the inner plate.
Take the 1/4 x 1 x 36” (6 x 25 x 915mm) trailing edge (TE) stock and cut into 3 lengths (2@ 385mm and 1@
135mm). Glue the 135mm section to the centre of the trailing edge of the wing.
Chamfer the leading edge of the TE stock at 45o. Cut the supplied Mylar strip into six 3/8” (10mm) sections for
the aileron hinges. Slot the centre of the wing trailing edge and the aileron to accept the hinges. Insert 3 hinges
per aileron. Ensure when the aileron is fitted it has free movement without binding on the tips or centre section.
Leave enough gap to allow movement once covered.
Hinge

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Controls
Install the servo by either gluing it to the ply plate or using ¼ x ¼ (6 x 6mm) spruce bearers to suit your chosen
servo. Use a scrap pieces of 1/8th (3mm) Ply to provide support. Whichever method you choose Ensure the
servo is secure and unable to move and the horn is positioned centrally to the cut out.
Cut down two of provided servo horns as shown below. Attach to the aileron in line with the servo horn. Insert
the pushrod connector through the remaining hole in the horn and Locktite the nut in place.
Use the 100mm push rods for the ailerons. Insert the Z bent end into the servo horn and the straight end
through the push rod connector. Use Loctite on the grub screw to ensure it does not become loose. Screw the
aileron servo plate in place using four screws (not provided).
Once covered insert and glue the 6mm location dowel through the hole in the leading edge and into the spar. A
spreader plate can be made from scrap ply can be placed on the top of the wing to spread the load if required.
Ensure a large M3 penny washer us used the spread the load from the bolt head.
Fuselage
Using the ¼ x ¼ x36” (6 x 6 x 915mm) triangular balsa glue strips to the outer edge of the fuselage sides, Part
2, as shown hatched below. Make sure you build a left and right hand side!

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F1 and Part 7 are formed with two parts glued together. F1 has a part with locating lugs, the part without lugs
sits on the inside of the fuselage. Once dry insert captive nuts on the part without lugs (inside) using a little
epoxy to hold in place. The captive nut on W7 should sit underneath when installed in the fuselage.
Insert the formers F1 to F5 and Part 7 on one side of the fuselage as shown below. F1 should be glued in place
using epoxy resin.
Cut F5 to follow the elevator cut out at the rear of the fuselage
Once dry offer the other side and glue together, again using epoxy on F1.
F1
F2
F3
F4
F5
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