Evolution MEGA FUSION User manual

0
Petrol and Electric Instruction
Manual
FEATURES
 Precision Laser Cut Parts
 Lightweight Strong Airframe
 Excellent Low Speed Stability
 Comprehensive Instruction Manual
 High Quality Balsa and Ply parts
 Excellent Precise Handling Characteristics, ideal first large trainer
 High Quality Comprehensive Hardware Pack

1
Introduction
The Mega Fusion was the natural progression from the Fusion. It can be used for a large model
trainer or glider tug (with appropriate alterations) as it provides a stable base which a pilot of any
experience will enjoy and feel confidence with. Wind up the rates and put a hot motor in it then like
the Fusion it will loop on the spot, roll in the blink of an eye, again, inspiring confidence as it
remains rock solid and stable. This model that has been designed to be highly manoeuvrable, but
also to be attractive with style and flair.
Building Recommendations (Please read)
Check all parts from the box to ensure that they are present; if not then please contact us at the e-
mail address at the back of the instructions. We do from time to time make mistakes!!
Ensure that you use a completely flat base on which to build the model, this should be large
enough the build the wing 50” (1270mm) x 18” (450mm) as a minimum.
Read through the instructions before starting to build, understand each step before applying glue.
Any glue detailed in the instructions is for a guide only, this is what we used for the prototypes, it is
at the builders discretion which glue is used, but ensure that it is suitable for the intended purpose.
Always read the application instructions to ensure you achieve a strong joint. Always read the
safety instructions supplied with the glue.
Take your time building the model, build a straight and strong model, this will ensure the model will
fly well!
!!! Warning. During the construction you will be asked to sand balsa. Ensure that you are wearing
an appropriate mask for sanding balsa and are in a well ventilated area. We recommend sanding
in free air (outside).!!!
Enjoy. Building is part of aero modelling! By building you will understand how the model works
and how to handle it correctly.
This radio controlled model is not a toy. It can cause serious injury to the operator, public and
property if misused or abused. Ensure that you read all the instructions supplied with this kit and
instructions provided with the engine and radio control system or any other components purchased
separately carefully. Also make sure that any parts bought separately are suitable for their
application.
The kit contains small and potentially sharp parts, keep away from children.
Additional Materials Required Recommended Tools
Uhu Por
Cyano
Standard Thin or Medium Cyano
Aliphatic Wood Glue
Epoxy Resin
Tinned Copper Wire (For Undercarriage)
Solder
Heat Shrink Covering Material
Power Set or motor
Radio Gear
Modelling Knife
Razor Plane
Set Square
Sand Paper
Sanding Block
Blow Torch
Drill
Drill Bits
Building Board – Completely flat 1270 x
450mm Min
Bradawl
Please visit our online shop at www.evolution-models.com if you require any supporting materials.
We stock motors and ESCs and all the materials you will require to build your model.

2
Fusion Part List
Wood Pack
Hardware Pack
Description
Sheet Size
Quantity
Metric
Imperial
Leading Edge Sheet 2 x 100 x 915mm 3/32 x 4 x 36” 4
Leading Edge
(
cut into 2 pieces
)
9.5 x 75
x 915mm
3/8 x
3
x 36”
1
Trailing Edge Sheet (
cut into
4
pieces
) 2 x 100 x 915mm 3/32 x 4 x 36” 1
Main
Spars and Trailing Edge Spar
6 x 6 x 915mm
1/4 x1/4
x 36”
6
Leading Edge Spar 4.5 x 4.5 x 915mm 3/16 x 3/16 x 36” 4
Wing Centre Section Sheet
2 x 100
x 915mm
3/32 x 4 x 36”
2
Fuselage
Bottom and Front Deck Sheet
3 x 150
x 915mm
1/8 x 6
x 36”
1
Rib Capping Strips 2 x 9.5 x 915mm 3/32 x 1/4 x 36” 14
Aileron/
Rudder
/
Elev
ator
/
Tail
Plane
Strip
9.5 x 12 x 915mm
3/8 x1/2 x 36”
5
Fuselage Triangular Fillet 9.5 x 9.5 x 915mm 3/8 x 3/8 x 36” 8
Tail Plane Spar Cover
1.5 x 6 x 915mm
1/16 x 1/4 x 36”
1
Description
Quantity
75mm (3”) Wheels
2
Metal Clevis (M3) 8
Metal Extender (M3)
2
Nuts (M3) 8
Aileron Control Rod (M3)
2
Closed Loop Adaptors
4
Closed Loop Crimps 8
Closed Loop
Wire
4 m
Control Horns 6
5mm x 450mm Carbon rod
1
Single Saddle Clamp 6 swg and Screws (12) 6
6
Swg Wheel Collet
2
Captive Nuts, bolts and washers
2
Pinned Hinges 19
Servo Mount Spruce 6 x 6 x 25mm (¼ x ¼ x 1”)
2

3
Laser Cut Ply
1
2
3
4
3
4 1
13
14
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
15
16
20
17
18
21
22
19
W1
W2
W3
W4
W5
W6
W7
Rib
Identification

4
Laser Cut Balsa
39
23
23
24
25
27
26
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
40
41
42
43
44
45
44
43

5
Part No.
Description
S
heet Material
1
Main Wing Spar (2)
3mm (1/8”)
Ply
2
Left and Right Fuselage
s
ides
Rear S
ection
(2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
3
Fuselage Doubler (2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
4
Wing Tube End Plates (2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
5
Inner Front Undercarriage Mount
3mm (1/8”) Ply
6
Oute
r Front Undercarriage Mount
3mm (1/8”) Ply
7
Inner Rear Undercarriage Mount
3mm (1/8”) Ply
8
Outer Rear Undercarriage Mount
3mm (1/8”) Ply
9
Wing Bolt Plate (2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
10
Hatch Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
11
Servo Mounting Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
12
Ha
tch Latch Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
13
F2
3mm (1/8”) Ply
14
Wing Dowel Plates
3mm (1/8”) Ply
15
Left and Right Fuselage
sides Front section
(2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
16
Tail Skid plates (2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
17
Outer Wing Bolt Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
18
Upper Wing Bo
lt Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
19
Lower Wing Bolt Plate
3mm (1/8”) Ply
20
Fin Core
3mm (1/8”) Ply
21
Aileron Servo Mounting Plates
3mm (1/8”) Ply
22
F1 (2)
3mm (1/8”) Ply
23
Wing Tip (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
24
Tail Plane Tips (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
25
Eleva
tor Trailing Edge
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
26
Tail Plane Centre Section
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
27
Tail Plane Leading Edge
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
28
Tail Plane Trailing Edge
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
29
Elevator Leading Edge
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
30
Rudder Leading Edge
9.5mm
(3/8”
) Balsa
31
Elevator Tips (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
32
Rudder Bottom
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
33
Rudder Top
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
34
Elevator Centre Section
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
35
Aileron Outer Tips (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
36
Aileron Horn Plates (2)
9.5mm (3/8
”
) Balsa
37
Tail Plane Centre Section
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
38
Aileron Inner Tips (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
39
Aileron Trailing Edge (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
40
Aileron Leading Edge (2)
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
41
Fuselage Backbone
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
42
Rudder Tra
iling Edge
9.5mm (3/8”
) Balsa
43
Rudder Outer Cladding (Rear) (2)
3mm (1/8”) Balsa
44
Rudder Outer Cladding (Middle) (2)
3mm (1/8”) Balsa
45
Rudder Outer Cladding (Front) (2)
3mm (1/8”) Balsa

6
Des
cription
Quantity
Undercarriage Front Leg 1
Undercarriage Rear Leg 1
Undercarriage Support 2
Tail Skid 1
Suspension Parts Set ( 2 large and 2 Small) 1
Front Leg 6 swg
Rear Leg 6 swg
Piano Wire U/C
Fusion Parts List
Supports 8 swg
Tail Skid 10 swg

7
Building Instructions
Fin and Rudder
Take the 7 parts that form the Fin (Parts 43(2), 44(2), 45(2) and 20), sandwich the ply part between the
sheets of 1/8th balsa
Take the four parts that form the rudder (Parts 30, 32, 33 and 42) and assemble as shown below using the
12.5 x 9.5mm (1/2” x 3/8”) strip wood to create the riblets.
With a pencil mark the centre line of the leading edge of the rudder and chamfer to a 45° angle with a Razor
Plane ready to receive the hinges. The hinged part of the pinned hinges sits in the chamfer as shown below.
With a file remove a section of the chamfered face to accept the centre of the hinge, then Carefully drill the
balsa to accept the hinge. The fin has already been cut to accept the four hinges, make adjustments if
necessary.
Sand all parts to a smooth Finish and round off the leading edge of the Fin ready for covering.
Tail Plane and Elevator
Take the pre-cut parts which form the Tail Plane (Parts 24(2), 26, 27, 28 and 37), trial fit, ensure the tips are
at 90° to the leading and trailing edge before gluing. With the supplied strip of 12.5 x 9.5mm (1/2” x 3/8”) cut
to length to form the eight ribbing pieces, glue in place.
Using the elevator parts (Parts 25, 29, 31(2), and 34), and 12.5 x 9.5mm (1/2” x 3/8”) strip wood, make up
the elevator in the same way as the Tail Plane
The Tail Plane and Elevator are separate parts do not glue together.

8
Tail Plane parts laid out Tail Plane assembled
Riblet pieces inserted
Use the 1.5 x 6 x 915mm (1/16 x 1/4 x36”) balsa strip and glue it in the pre-cut spar slot flush with the
surface, insert the 5 x 450mm (18”) carbon spar and glue in place with epoxy before capping with the
remaining strip.
With a pencil mark the centre line of the leading edge of the Elevator. Chamfer to a 45° angle with a razor
Plane ready to receive the hinges. Use 5 hinges attach the elevator to the tail plane as describe above for
the rudder.
Fuselage
Lay the two Fuselage sides (Parts 2(2) and 15(2)) on the work bench ensuring that you have a left and right
hand side. Glue the front and rear sections together before attaching the Fuselage Doubler (Part 3 (2))
Using the 9.5mm (3/8”) triangular fillet, glue to the outer edge of the Fuselage as shown hatched below.
Make cuts in the fillet to allow it to follow the bottom curve of the Fuselage If Building the petrol version also
fill the section at the bottom of the fuselage.

9
Glue the two F1’s (Part 22(2)), two Wing Bolt Plates (Part 9(2)) and two Wing Dowel Supports (Part 14(2))
together to form 6mm (1/4”) thick parts. Insert the two captive nuts by using a hammer on a flat surface. If
you are building the Petrol Version your kit will have a 6mm (¼”) Birch Ply F1 to replace the two 3mm Poplar
ply pieces.
Draw a centre line on your bench as long as the fuselage to create a centre line to work from.
Using F1, F2, the Wing Dowel Support, Tank Hatch Latch (Part12) and Wing Bolt Plate begin to form the
fuselage. Insert F2 (Part 13), the Wing Dowel Support, Battery Hatch Latch and Wing Bolt Plate (so the
captive part of the nut is on the underside) into the corresponding slots in the Fuselage Doubler and glue in
position. Offer up the second side, before gluing turn the whole assembly over so that the fuselage sides are
vertical. Place the centre of F2 on the centre line marked on your bench and insert F1 (so that the cut is at
the bottom), again on the centre line. When satisfied that the fuselage sides taper evenly either side of the
centre line and F1 is at 90o glue the whole assembly together. F1 should be glued into position using epoxy.
Once the epoxy has set, glue the top decking (Part 41) to the Fuselage, ensuring the rear Fuselage remains
square and the cut out for the fin remains along the Fuselage centre line.
With epoxy glue the front (Part 5) and rear (Part 7) undercarriage plates into position. (Fuselage shown
upside down). The plates fit within the recess created by the ply doublers.
Epoxy the outer undercarriage plates (Part 6 and 8) into position, these sit on top and fit flush with the outer
sides.
Go to the next step for the electric version. With the supplied the sheet of 3mm (1/8”) balsa plank the
front top deck of the Fuselage. If you are building the petrol version continue to plank the whole of the
bottom. The planking grain should run from side to side to provide maximum strength.
F1
F2
Wing dowel
Support
Battery Hatch
Latch
Wing Bolt
Plate

10
If you are building the electric version take the battery hatch floor (Part 10) and place the tab in its slot. Do
not glue it into position.
Plank with the 3mm (1/8”) balsa sheet from the rear of the battery hatch floor to the back of the Fuselage.
Plank the bottom of the hatch floor with 3mm (1/8”) balsa except for the tab that fits under the U/C mount.
The balsa should be wider that the hatch floor by approximately 6mm either side to the edge of the fuselage.
Make over size and sand down with the planking to the same size as the fuselage.
Insert the magnets into the holes, both in the hatch and the latch plate inside the fuselage; make sure the
magnets are correctly orientated so they do not repel before gluing in place. Scraps of ply can be glued over
the magnets in the fuselage to prevent them pulling out.
Sheet the front curved section of the upper Fuselage once you have fitted the wing (see page 15) with the
remaining 3mm (1/8”) balsa.
The rear deck should reduced to a point as shown below, remove the hatched area so that the rear edge is
only 2mm thick. Sand the Fuselage to shape rounding off the top and bottom decking and sand the front top
deck at the front down to 1mm (1/16”) where it meets the wing.
Glue the two tail skid (Part 16(2)) together and place on the bottom of the Fuselage. Mark the distance from
the rear and cut a slot 6mm (1/4”) wide to accept the skid along the centre line of the Fuselage. Slot the Fin
in from the top and ensure that the parts mate within the Fuselage. Glue scrap pieces of ply either side of
the Tail skid slot to prevent the Tail skid wire rotating as in the picture below. Ensure that they are not too
large to slide into the Fuselage.
Adjust to suit before gluing in the skid with epoxy. Do not glue the Fin in at this stage. Ensure that the Tail
Plane can fit into the Fuselage slot and the Fin slot without fouling.

11
Cut slots in the Servo Mounting Plate (Part 11) to accept your chosen servos. The rudder and elevator servo
sit at the rear of the plate, if building the petrol version then mount a smaller servo at the front of the plate for
the throttle. Ensure that the rear servo can still be accessed under the wing bolt plate. If your building the
electric version then the plate can be cut down to provide the maximum room in the battery bay. The plate
can be mounted later; when it is, ensure that it is securely mounted using some of the scrap triangular balsa
epoxied into position.
Wing and Aileron
We recommend building the entire wing with Aliphatic Wood Glue. It is generally fast setting and can be
sanded at the same rate as balsa.
The wing panel shown in the pictures below makes up the left hand panel (when viewing the model
from behind). Ensure that you also make a right hand panel.
Take the main spar (Part 1) and glue a strip of 6 x 6 x 915mm (1/4 x1/4 x36”) balsa strip flush with the
bottom. A left and right hand main spar is required, the balsa strip should be glued to the back.
Pin the spar vertically on the board; use a straight edge to ensure the spar is straight.
Wing Layout

12
Wing Tube
Wing Layout (Left Hand Section, mirror for Right hand section)
Begin placing the ribs in the slot in the order shown above. Using a set square ensure that the ribs are at
90o to the spar, and use a ruler to ensure the rib is straight without any deviation. The centre and end rib
must be absolutely vertical and straight. Pin the trailing edge spar to the board parallel to the main spar.
Continue until all the ribs have been inserted.
Insert the upper 6 x 6 x 915mm (1/4 x1/4 x36”) spar, glue in place and allow to dry before attempting the next
stage. Cut the Phelonic (outer only) wing tube to 405mm and insert through the pre-cut hole in the wing.
The tube should slide through to W5 easily if required gently run sandpaper around the edge of the holes to
ensure it does. Check, check and triple check that the end rib is vertical and straight before gluing the tube
into position. Insert the aluminium joining tube into the outer and check this is also at 90o. If you haven’t
guessed this is critical so that when the two wings are joined the centre ribs are absolutely parallel to one
another. Glue the wing tube caps (Part 4(2)) on to the end of the wing tube at W5.
W1
W2
W2
W3
W4
W5
W6
W6
W6
W7

13
Insert the 4.5 x 4.5 x 915mm (3/16 x 3/16 x 36”) spars into the leading edge slots, check the end ribs before
gluing. Once dry gently sand so that it is flush with the vertical leading edge.
Take the sheet of 9.5 x 75 x 915mm (3/8 x 3 x 36”) balsa and cut in half along its length to form the two
leading edges. Glue it in position against the ribs and leading edge spar. Using the 2 x 100 x 915mm (3/32
x 4 x 36”) slightly chamfer the front edge so a good bond is achieved where it meets the leading edge and
leading edge spar. Before gluing in place check the whole wing is completely square and the end ribs are
straight and vertical. Once satisfied apply glue to the ribs and top spar and roll the sheet into position and
pin until dry.
Glue one of the upper wing bolt plate (Part 18(2)) in the pre cut slots across the first three ribs at the trailing
edge. Using one sheet of the 2 x 100 x 915mm (3/32 x 4 x 36”) cut it into four 25mm (1”) sheet to form the
trailing edges. Glue one in position as shown below.
Using the 2 x 4 x 915mm (3/32 x 4 x 36”) balsa sheet plank from the trailing edge sheet to the leading edge
sheet across the first three ribs. Drill and file out the hole for the wing bolt.

14
Centrally to the top of each exposed rib glue the 2 x 9.5 x 915mm (3/32 x 3/8 x 36”) capping strips from the
trailing edge sheet to the leading edge sheet. The end cap strip will be glued flush with the wing tip end rib.
Un-pin the wing, be careful as it will still be quite flexible, turn over and re-pin the trailing edge and main spar
back onto the board. Check that the wing is square, adjust if necessary. Glue the lower wing bolt plate (Part
19) with the elongated hole. Insert scrap balsa between the wing bolt plates so that when the bolts are
tightened it prevents the wing from compressing.
Repeat the sheeting process for the bottom of the wing ensuring the wing is square and twist free.
Take one of the wing tip (Part 23(2)) and glue onto the tips of the wing. The tip should be lined up with the
centre of the leading edge and the centre of the trailing edge. With some scrap 3mm (1/8”) sheeting make
triangular fillet pieces to support the wing tip on both sides. Position the fillets as set out below. The rear
fillet will have to be ‘cranked’ in line with the wing trailing edge to allow the covering to follow the wing
contour neatly.
Crank Create a fillet as shown above
Sand the wing and shape the leading edge ready for covering. Carefully sand the sheeting flush with the
end rib ensuing that it remains vertical.
The second wing is built in exactly the same way; ensure you build a left and right hand panel, and again
ensure the end ribs are completely vertical and straight. The only change to the construction process is at
the sheeting stage; insert the tube into each wing panel so the centre ribs are touching one another. Sheet
the second wing so that the joint between the panels wing is as tight as possible.

15
Make sure the centre ribs are touching full length
Once both panels are complete join the wing using the aluminium tube and test the fitment to the fuselage,
make adjustments where required to the fuselage cut out or the profile of the wing. Ensure that the wing is
central on the fuselage, push one of the dowels through the holes to leave a mark on the leading edge,
remove the wing and drill an 8mm hole where the dowel marked. Insert the dowel through the hole into the
hole in the main spar. Test fit to the fuselage and make adjustments as necessary. Sheet the top deck of
the fuselage as described on page 10.
Ailerons
Take the five pre-cut parts (Parts 35(2), 36(2), 38(2), 39(2) and 40(2)) which form the ailerons, trial fit, ensure
the tips are at 90° to the leading edge, fit the trailing edge, when satisfied glue with Cyano or white wood
glue. With a supplied strip of 12mm x 9.5mm x 915mm (1/2 x 3/8 x 36”) cut to length to form the ten ribbing
pieces, glue in place.
With a pencil mark the centre line of the leading edge and chamfer to a 45° angle with a razor Plane. Insert
the hinges as described earlier for the rudder, use 5 hinges per aileron. The hinges at either end should be
place 25mm (1”) in from the edge, then the others equally spaced.

16
Repeat the above stages for the second aileron.
Ensure that you get at least 45° free movement either way. Do not glue the hinges in at this stage! Cover
both parts with your chosen covering first.
Sand to provide a smooth, blemish free surface ready for covering.
Covering
Before undertaking the covering seat the wing, tail plane and fin and make sure that all fit. Make any
alterations as necessary with fine sandpaper and a block. Finally sand and fill all parts to provide a smooth,
blemish free surface ready for covering.
This is your chance to express yourself; unlike the ARTF models on the market you can now choose your
own colour scheme. The prototype model was covered in Profilm, but the choice is yours. Just make sure
that you follow the manufactures recommendations when applying the film. We would recommend applying
a surface sealant to the area around F1 so that the film adheres better in areas where it is likely to be
exposed to fuel (petrol version). We also recommend that you apply a glow fuel sealant to the radio
compartment of the Fuselage. Follow the manufactures recommendations when applying. Ensure when
you cover the model you do not introduce any warps, cover each section and evenly tighten the covering on
both sides. Ensure when you have finished covering all parts they are straight and true.
Tail Skid and Undercarriage
Draw two lines on a piece of scrap ply 125mm (6”) apart. Place the front leg and rear leg on each of the
lines and screw down using the supplied 6 swg saddle clamps and screws. Make adjustments with pliers to
make sure that the legs are parallel where they are to be bound.
Clean the tops of the legs with sandpaper or wire wool to remove any dirt or lubricants ready to solder. Pull
the legs together so that they join as shown in the photograph. The U/C should also rake forward as shown
in the diagram above adjacent to the front leg. Bind together using tinned copper wire. The 12 swg wire
suspension parts should be bound at the same time in the positions shown below in the first photograph
below.
We advise wearing heat-proof gauntlets at this point. Heat the wire using a blowtorch and feed solder into
the joint, ensuring that you flood the joint to make it strong. Clean off the excess with a damp cloth; do not
touch the leg as it will be extremely hot. Repeat for both sides. Once cool remove from the scrap ply. Save
the clamps and screws.
With the two support pieces, offer these up to the main U/C legs and Find the point at which they best fit,
make minor adjustments as before, install the smaller 12 swg supports. Bind and solder as before. Repeat
for the second side, ensuring that the supports are positioned symmetrically.

17
Once the Fuselage has been covered, line the undercarriage up with the centre of the two mounting plates.
Ensure that it is placed square to the Fuselage. Place three saddle clamps over the wire and screw onto the
centre of the front undercarriage plate, repeat for the rear leg. Make sure the axles are at 90° to the
centreline of the Fuselage. Minor adjustments can be made with pliers or mole grips, just ensure that you
hold the undercarriage legs when doing this to prevent damaging the Fuselage.
Place on the supplied 3” (75mm) wheel followed by collet. Ensure that the wheel rotates freely and tighten
the second grub screw. Cut off any excess piano wire. String two wing type bands diagonally between the
suspension parts as shown below. Alternatively suitably sized springs could be used.
Take the pre-bent 3mm (10 swg) wire and attach to the Tail skid using cotton, looping through each of the
pre-drilled holes several times before securing with Cyano. Ensure the Cyano penetrates through the cotton.
Final Assembly
If you have any queries about the final assembly then please contact us at [e-mail]
where we will be happy to discuss your problem and send you a photo or two to illustrate our solution.
Wing
Take the fully covered wing and ailerons, glue the hinges into the aileron using epoxy. Slot the hinges into
the corresponding slots on the wing and epoxy in position. Move the aileron full travel (min 45°) to ensure
that there is no resistance and repeat the gluing process. Repeat this for the second aileron.
Install the servos in to the wing and feed the wires through the tubes. Pull the wires out at the centre section
and cut a hole in each wing bug enough for the plug to fit through into the fuselage. Drill pilot holes and
securely screw the servos into place using the fixings supplied with the servo. Centre the servo and attach a
single arm horn.
Lay a ruler on the wing lined up with the outermost hole on the servo horn running parallel with the ribs and
mark the position on the aileron LE. Place the supplied control horn centrally on this mark. Mark the
positions of the holes and drill three 1.5mm (1/16”) pilot holes. Place the horn over the holes and insert 3
bolts through to the supplied backing pieces. Screw on the bolts and tighten the assembly to the aileron,

18
making sure the horn remains at 90° aileron leading edge. Once satisfied that the horn is secured run some
Cyano onto the thread to ensure the nut cannot be loosened.
Cut the threaded rod to the correct length before soldering on the threaded extender as shown below. When
correctly fitted the clevises should be threaded onto the rod so that it can be threaded in or out an equal
amount. Lock the clevises in place using the supplied M3 nuts, ensure this cannot become loose, use a
thread lock if needed.
Repeat this for the second aileron.
The wing support plate (Part 17) should be covered but not glued to the wing. The bolts are inserted through
the plate into the wing and into the captive nuts the support plate remains independent to spread the load
into the wing.
Fuselage
Take the fully covered parts for the Fuselage and insert the 8mm (5/16”) dowels provided. Glue in place with
white wood glue or Cyano. Fit the wing to the Fuselage and hold in place with an elastic band so that it is
firmly seated, but able to move for adjustment. With a tape measure check that the Fuselage is square to
the wing as per the diagram. Ensure A1 = A2.
Insert the Tail Plane into its slot and check the measurement B1 = B2. Once satisfied that the Tail Plane is
square, mark with a pencil both top and bottom along the edge of the Fuselage. Remove the Tail Plane from
its slot and carefully cut 1.5mm (1/16”) on the inside of the line to remove the covering film from both the top
and bottom.
Take the Fin and insert into the slot. With a pencil mark along the Fuselage as with the Tail Plane, remove
the Fin and remove the covering from 1.5mm (1/16”) below the line.
!!! Warning. Only cut through the film while undertaking the tasks above, do not cut into the balsa as this will
weaken the Fin and may cause it to fail in flight!!!
Re-insert the Fin and make sure that the cut-out in the base of the Fin lines up with the Tail Plane slot.
Insert the Tail Plane to confirm. One satisfied with the fit, glue the Fin into position using epoxy on the base
where it joins to the Tail skid and Cyano or white wood glue at the junction with the top deck. Ensure that
the Fin is vertical, with the wing seated; also check that the Fin is at 90° by viewing it from the front.
A2 A1
B2 B1
90
o
90
o
M3 Threaded Rod M3 Clevis M3 Threaded Extender
Servo Horn M3 Clevis
Horn

19
Glue the Tail Plane into position, apply the glue inside the slot, top and bottom, and with help carefully open t
he slot while inserting the Tail Plane and release the Fuselage to clamp back down. Only apply slight
pressure so as not to break the rear of the Fuselage. When inserting the Tail Plane be careful not to get
glue onto the covering. Make sure the Tail Plane is parallel to the wing by viewing from the front as before.
Take the fully covered Fuselage with Fin and Tail Plane fitted and glue the hinges 50% into the Rudder and
Elevator. Glue using a thin Cyano and ensure that it penetrates into the slots both top and bottom. Slot the
hinges into the corresponding slots on the Fin and Tail Plane. Move the control surfaces full travel (min 45°)
to ensure that there is no resistance and repeat the gluing process.
Fit the Elevator servo (rear servo), Rudder servo (front servo) and Throttle servo (glow version) using the
screws supplied with the servos, if you haven’t already, fit the 6 x 6mm (¼” x ¼”) spruce to the front servo.
Pilot drill the holes first to prevent the ply and spruce splitting.
Using two horns from the hardware pack on both the Elevator and Rudder, install them as described earlier
for the ailerons, except using a horn either side of the control surface and use the M2 nuts and bolts to fix in
place. The Elevator horn is placed at the centre of the Elevator and the Rudder horns are placed at the
bottom of the Rudder parallel with the bottom rail. Ensure that they are tight and sealed with Cyano as
before. For those wishing to get larger Rudder movements move the horn back from the hinge point by
approximately 12.5mm (½”).
With a Bradawl make holes for the closed loop system to exit the Fuselage as shown below. Start by making
a hole at 90° to the surface, then increase the angle while twisting the Bradawl to about 5°. Make the holes
in the positions as shown on the diagram. We have found it neater to insert tubes into the holes, and have
used old pen inners (Biro) or excess Bowden outer glued in place with Cyano. Ensure Cyano does not enter
the tube or it will glue the cable fast. The hole for the upper Elevator closed loop cable will be placed
centrally on the rear deck, but needs to be inserted at an angle so that the cable can be run past the Fin
post.