Extreme Flight YAK-55SP-Electric User manual

YAK-55SP-Electric
ARF
Instruction Manual
©Copyright 2004 Extreme Flight RC

Thank you for your purchase of the Extreme Flight RC Yak-55SP-E ARF! Please take a few
moments to read this instruction manual before beginning assembly. We have outlined a fast,
clear and easy method to assemble this aircraft and familiarizing yourself with this process will
aid in a quick, easy build.
Please read the following paragraph before beginning assembly of your aircraft!
THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result from
the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the buyer with a very high
quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the buyer, will assemble a flying model.
However it is beyond our control to monitor the finished aircraft you produce. Extreme Flight
RC will in no way accept or assume responsibility or liability for damages resulting from the
use of this user assembled product. This aircraft should be flown in accordance to the AMA
safety code. It is highly recommended that you join the Academy of Model Aeronautics in
order to be properly insured. If you are not willing to accept ALL liability for the use of this
product, please return it to the place of purchase immediately.
Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and workmanship
for a period of 90 days from the date of purchase. All warranty claims must be accompanied by
the original dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the original purchaser of the aircraft kit
only.
Extreme Flight RC in no way warranties its aircraft against flutter. We have put these aircraft
through the most grueling flight tests imaginable and have not experienced any control surface
flutter. Proper servo selection and linkage set-up is absolutely essential. Inadequate servos or
improper linkage set up may result in flutter and possibly the complete destruction of your air-
craft. If you are not experienced in this type of linkage set-up or have questions regarding
servo choices, please contact us. It is your responsibility to ensure the airworthiness of your
model.
Designed to take full advantage of the latest in brushless motor and lithium battery technology,
the Yak 55 will provide all the 3D thrills you can handle without breaking the bank. Your back-
yard or local school playground is all the room you need to perform any maneuver you can
think of. When powered with the Extreme Flight RC BL-20 brushless motor and speed con-
troller the Yak-55 is truly unlimited in its 3D performance ability. The lightweight yet robust
airframe eliminates the tail twisting associated with “foamy” 3D aircraft, and the built up sym-
metrical airfoil wing provides stability in high alpha attitudes.
By the time the Yak arrives in your shop, it will have endured several climate changes. As a
result you may find some wrinkles in the covering. This is not a manufacturing defect. Please
take a few moments with your iron or heat gun and remove any wrinkles. Iron over all the
edges to ensure they are sealed. Also because of the super lightweight structure, these climate
changes may cause some of the control surfaces to twist or bow slightly. This condition is also
easily remedied with a heat gun or iron. Just take your time and have a friend assist you in
twisting the surface to its proper shape while you add heat from the heat gun. You may find the
need to do this periodically, especially if you leave the Yak inside a hot car.
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Additional Items needed to complete assembly
4 sub micro servos (we use and recommend the Hitec HS-55)
1 micro receiver (the Hitec Electron 6 is our choice)
3S1P Lithium Polymer battery pack (we use the Thunder Power 1320 mah pack)
Connectors for attaching the battery to the ESC (we use the JST style connector)
Wing assembly
1. Use a #11 hobby blade to remove the covering from the 4 servo holes in the wing (two on
top and two on the bottom).
2. Using the manufacturer’s supplied hardware, mount 4 servos into the wing with the ouput
splines to the rear (again, two on the top and two on the bottom).
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3. Turn the wing over and remove the covering from the 2 rectangular holes in the aileron (one
per aileron). Use some medium CA to glue the laser cut plywood control horns in place, mak-
ing sure that they are perpendicular to the aileron. Put the wing aside for now.
4. Locate the pre-hinged horizontal stabilizer/elevator assembly. As you did on the aileron,
remove the covering from the rectangular holes in the stab and elevator (two on the bottom of
the stab, one on the top of the elevator). Use medium CA to glue the laser cut control horn into
the TOP of the elevator, making sure it is perpendicular to the elevator. Glue the two stabilizer
retention tabs into the BOTTOMof the stab. It is critical that these two tabs are perpendicular
to the bottom of the stab to insure proper stab/fuse alignment. Set aside this assembly for now.
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5. Locate the rudder and the remaining laser cut plywood control horn. Remove the covering
from the rectangular hole in the LEFT side of the rudder. Using medium CA, glue the conrol
horn into the slot on the LEFT side.
6. Use a sharp #11 hobby blade to make two slots in the leading edge of the rudder and two
corresponding slots in the rear post of the fuselage. One slot should be approximately 1/4” from
the bottom of the rudder, the other approximately 1/4” below the counter balance. Use the two
supplied CA hinges to attach the rudder to the rear of the fuselage. Use thin CA to secure the
hinges.
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7. Using a sharp #11 hobby knife, remove the covering from the wing and stabilizer slots. Use
a sealing iron to secure any loose edges.
8. Trial fit the wing and stab into the fuselage. Once you slide the stab into the fuselage slot,
slide it to the rear of the slot, leaving just enough room for the elevator to clear the rear post,
allowing uninhibited movement of the elevator. Slide the wing forward so that the leading edge
touches the front of the wing slot.
9. Using a straight edge and an indelible ink marker, draw a line on the side of the fuselage
from the servo horn on the servo in the top of the wing to the elevator horn. Do the same on
the other side for the rudder. Remove the wing and stab for now.
10. Locate the 8 laser cut plywood pushrod guides. You will use four for each side.
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11. Using the lines you have drawn as a reference, use your hobby knife or a fine tipped solder-
ing iron to open 4 small holes in the covering on each side of the fuselage at the vertical cross
member. Use medium CA to glue the pushrod guides to the vertical cross member. Use the
picture below for reference.
12. Repeat this procedure on the other side of the fuselage for the rudder pushrod.
13. Re-install the wing and horizontal stab into fuselage. Use a 1/16th” twist drill bit to drill
through the fuselage at the four wing mounting tabs and the two stab mounting tabs. Glue the 4
plastic wing screw retainers to the fuselage with medium CA.
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14. Attach the wing using 4 of the wood screws that are provided in the hardware package.
The screw should be inserted through the wing mounting tab, through the fuselage and secure
itself in the plastic wing screw retainers that you just glued in place in the previous step.
15. Repeat this step for the stab, although we do not use a plastic screw retainer for these
screws. You may want to wick a drop of thin CA into the two holes in the fuselage before
inserting the two stab retaining screws.
16. Use a sharp #11 hobby knife to remove the covering from the gearbox slot at the front of
the fuselage.
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17. Locate the small 1/16th balsa rectangle in the hardware package.
18. Use a sanding block to shape the piece of balsa into a wedge.
19. Use a single drop of medium CA to glue the wedge to the front of the fuselage.This will
provide you with a small amount of right thrust to counteract the spiral slipstream effect. Just
use a small drop of glue directly on the covering as you may wish to remove the wedge to alter
the amount of right thrust as you trim your Yak or if you change prop sizes.
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20. Slide the motor/gearbox assembly onto the front of the fuselage, and press it flush against
the balsa wedge. When viewed from the top the motor/gearbox should be angled to the right by
about 2 degrees. Drill 2 1/16th“ holes through the gearbox and into the mounting beam. Insert
the 2 woodscrews with the large heads into these holes and tighten until snug.
21. Use your #11 blade to open the landing gear slot on the bottom front of the fuselage.
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22. Insert the pre-formed wire landing gear into the slot and secure with one of the supplied
nylon cable ties.
23. Slide the wheels onto the wire landing gear, and secure plastic wheel retainer with a drop
of CA.
A few words about the landing gear
If you fly from a grass field we highly recommend that you leave the landing gear off of the
Yak. It is better to slide the plane in on its belly in the grass. The landng gear tend to get
caught in the grass and cause the plane to flip over. Save the landing gear for indoor flying
from a smooth surface.
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24. If you are using a motor and ESC from another manufacturer please follow their instruc-
tions for attaching these units to each other and the plane. If using the Extreme Flight BL-20
brushless motor and speed controller, please refer to the instruction addendum at this time.
25. Turn the Yak over and remove the covering from the lightening hole nearest the fuselage on
the left side (as viewed from the bottom front). Pull all of the servo wires through this hole and
attach them to their intended slots in your receiver. Also plug the “JR” style connector from the
ESC into the throttle port on the receiver. Install the receiver into the wing cavity using your
preferred method to secure it (We use Velcro or double sided tape). Use the piece of clear cov-
ering from the hardware package to cover the hole in the bottom of the wing. Make sure to cut
a small hole to allow the lead for the ESC. You may choose to mount the on/off switch of the
ESC in the leading edge or just leave it free floating. Just make sure you can access it easily.
Use a piece of velcro or double sided tape to secure the ESC to the lower forward area of the
fuselage.
26. Use some medium CA along with the 2 remaining wood screws to secure a piece of the
supplied Velcro to the fuselage just in front of the wing.
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27. Glue a strip of Velcro to the back of your battery and mount as shown.
28. Drill a small hole in the rear bottom of the fusleage and install the pre-bent wire tail skid.
Secure with a drop of CA.
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29. Slide the 2 long wire pushrods through the pushrod guides from the front. You will attach
the pre-bent “z-bend” at the servo arm and make a 90 degree bend on the other end at the con-
trol horn on the control surface. Push the wire through the hole in the control horn and retain
with one of the small laser cut plywood rings. Secure with a drop of CA. Use this same
process for both the elevator and rudder.
30. Use the 2 shorter pushrods for the aileron linkages and use the same procedure as outlined
above.
This concludes the assembly process. Please be sure to read the additional
document which includes directions for the ESC. Please note that the default
settings for the speed controller are the ideal settings for this particular appli-
cation. No programming is required to achieve optimum results from this
power package.
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Set-up and Flight Trimming
Please devote the first couple of flights to dialing in your Yak. The CG range for the Yak that
we have found to be ideal starts at 3.25” from the leading edge of the wing and extends to 3.75”
from the leading Edge of the wing.. Also take the time to balance your Yak laterally. Make
sure you do this with the battery attached to the fuselage.
Following are the recommended control surface throws:
Elevator: 10 degrees low rate Maximum deflection possible for high rate.
Rudder: 15 degrees low rate Maximum deflection possible for high rate.
Ailerons: 10 degrees low rate Maximum deflection possible for high rate.
I recommend that you use a fair amount of exponential for your high rate settings to soften the
feel around neutral stick position. My preference is 65% on elevator, 75% on aileron, and 80%
on rudder. These settings will vary among pilots, but these suggestions are a good place to
start. Adjust to suit your feel.
Thanks again for your business, and I hope you enjoy flying the Yak-55SP-E as much as we
have. See ya at the flying field!
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