FuzzDog FuzzPup Rodent User manual

Rode t
A big, fat bitey Rat
in a shrew’s body
Contents of this document are ©2018 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
FuzzPup

IMPORTANT
Before you start...
Grab the general build doc that covers all FuzzPup builds. Most of
the information you need for this build is in there.
Read it? OK, carry on.
FuzzPups
Lovely little boxes of joy with a
totally standardised build pattern
Contents of this document are ©2016 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.

Schematic
+ BOM
The PCB is designed to take 1/8W
(0.125W) resistors. You can use 1/4W if
you wish, but you’ll have to position them
upright. Make sure they’re bent enough
that you’ll have plenty of clearance in your
enclosure. But really, get some 1/8W.
To save space on the PCB we’ve not
included a separate spot for R4. If you
aren’t using the Ruez mod trimmer you
must place R4 as shown later in this
document.
NOTE: C12 is for power filtering and goes
on the underside of the PCB. Be careful
not to place this right against the board or
you’ll short out the pads around it. You
can only add this cap if you’re having your
DC socket on the top edge of the
enclosure, otherwise it’ll get in the way.
It’s not entirely necessary, so feel free to
leave it out if you really want a side-
mounted DC socket.
*Use R4 or 1KB Trimmer. See next page
for placement.
**Standard Rat clipping.
Replace with 3mm Red LEDs for Turbo,
1N34A for You Dirty.
R1 1M
R2 1K
R3 560R
R4 47R*
R5 1K
R6 1K5
R7 1M
R8 10K
R9 47R
R10 10K
R11 10K
R12 1M
Q1 2N5458
IC LM308N
or OP07
C1 22n
C2 1n
C3 100p
C4 33p
C5 4u7 elec
C6 2u2 elec
C7 4u7 elec
C8 3n3
C9 22n
C10 1u elec
C11 100u elec
C12 47u elec
C13 47n
FILT 100KA
DIST 100KA
VOL 100KA
RUEZ 1KB trim*
D1 1N4001
D2,3 1N4148**

PCB layout ©2018 FuzzDog
Unlike most of our FuzzPup PCBs the Rat doesn’t have pads for the jack
connections. You have to use to daughterboard for those. It’s also a little wider at
30mm, so there’s not so much room for wire access once it’s built.
If you are ’t addi g the Ruez respo se mod trimmer, place R4 as show above.
R4

Wire up your pots
If you’re using the pot daughterboard you need to allow some slack in the wires
attaching it to the main PCB. About an inch is a good length. We recommend
wiring on the top side of the main PCB rather than underneath as it’s easier to
guide the wires on final assembly, and they’re less likely to get snagged up under
the boards.
If you have the means to strip ribbon cable
this can make a really neat finish rather
than individual wires.
The followi g pages show the FuzzPup BigFluff
bei g assembled. The process is ide tical .

Assembly #1
This is where the *fun* starts. As this PCB is slightly different to our normal
FuzzPup range in not having jack connections and being a bit wider, you need to
take a little more care with assembly.
Get your hardware in place in the enclosure and wire it up, leaving plenty of slack
where it’ll join the daughterboard. Once you start soldering that it can get very
awkward if your wires are too short.
Run the wires under the jacks. You don’t want them getting in the way when you
place the main PCB.

Assembly #2
Now attach the wires to the daughterboard. Don’t forget your current limiting
resistor. Push the LED into its pads in the board and bend the legs out slightly to
keep in in place. You’ll push this through into final position once the board is
soldered to the footswitch.
If you have a top-edge DC socket don’t bother with the power GND and 9V wires on
the daughtboard. These will attach to the main PCB.

Assembly #3
Now for the fiddly bit.
Put your pots into position. No need to tighten them up yet, but no harm if you do.
Locate the header pins on the main PCB into the CI, V, G, CO pads on the
daughterboard and bring both boards down into the enclosure. Keep an eye on the
wiring and make sure nothing is snagging, and that your ack Out wire won’t
interfere with the LED.
Locate the daughterboard onto the switch lugs, ensuring your main PCB clears the
edge of the switch. Hopefully you’ve read the main FuzzPup document and have
soldered the header pins at an angle to make this easier.
Now everything should just relax down into position. Once you’re happy with where
the boards are you can solder the headers and footswitch into place.
Once that’s all done you can push your LED down into its hole and finish up.

...a d BOOM!
Hopefully not literally.
One fully assembled mini Rat.
If you have a top-mounted DC socket get it in there and wire it up with the V and G
pads in the top corners of the main PCB.
Enjoy!

FuzzDog.co.uk