GREAT PLANES Sportster Bipe 40 User manual

Sportster Bipe 40
Instruction Manual
Engine size .35-.45
Wingspan 45 1/2"
Length 41 1/2"
Wing Area
716 sq . in.
Weight
5-61/2 Ibs.
Materials Needed to Complete the Sportster:
4 Channel radio Propeller Fuel tank
Engine Wheel collars Spinner
Fiberglass cloth/resin Wheels Covering
Engine mounting bolts Hinges Instant glue
Pushrods/clevises Wing bolts EPOXY
The Sportster Bipe
40 was designed for sport flying. This biplane design with symmetrical wings pro -
vides full aerobatic maneuverability, yet has enough wing area for docile low speed capability.
The parts are machine cut and sanded for accurate fit. Should you notice a difference in size between
plans and parts, it is usually because paper changes size with moisture.
Different types of glue may be used such
as epoxy, cyanoacrylate(instant glue) and aliphatic resin (white
glue). Build on a flat surface for straight wings and fuselage.
Please read through this step
- by - step instruction manual before you start building so you will have an
overall idea of the construction steps and to avoid mistakes. Use the plan and parts list to identify the var
-
ious parts.
WAR N I N G !
This R/C kit and the model you will build is not a toy! It is capable of serious
bodily harm and property damage.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS
ALONE
- to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C components and flying
gear (engine, tank, pushrods, etc.) and to test the model and fly
it only with experi -
enced, competent help in accordance with all safety standards and common
sense as set down in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.
It is sug -
gested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before you attempt to
fly this model. IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING R/C MODELING, CONSULT YOUR
LOCAL HOBBY SHOP
OR WRITE TO THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
TO FIND AN EXPERIENCED INSTRUCTOR IN YOUR AREA.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
1810 Samuel Morse Dr.
Reston, VA 22090
PO BOX 788 URBANA lLLlNOlS61801 2171367 2069

BUILDING THE TAIL SECTION
PREPARE THE FIN AND RUDDER
Sandthe forward and rear sectionsof the fin
if neces -
sary for a good fit. Working over the plans, glue the fin section
pieces together. Sand both sides of the rudder.
CUT THE HINGE SLOTS IN THE FIN AND RUD -
DER; CUT OUT RUDDER FOR JOINER CLEAR -
ANCE
Draw centerlines down the trailing edge of the fin
and the leading edge of the rudder. Mark and cut the hinge
slots. Two hinges are used above the stabilizer. The third hinge
should be just below the stab and above the tail wheel strut
tab. Cut out part of the rudder leading edge for elevator joiner
wire clearance. Wait to shape the leading edge until the hole
is drilled for the tail wheel tiller arm later.
3. GLUE STAB PARTSTOGETHER; SAND THE STAB
AND ELEVATORS
Check the fit and sand the forward and rer parts of
the stab
so they fit together well. Glue them together. Sand both
sides of the stab and elevator halves.
4. DRILL HOLES IN THE ELEVATOR HALVES FOR
ELEVATOR JOINER WIRE
Draw a front to back centerline down the top side of
the stab and a centerlinedown the leadingedges of the elevator
halves. Mark the center of the elevator joiner wire. Align the
stab, elevator and joiner wire and mark the hole locations for
the joiner wire arms on the centerline of the elevator leading
edge. Drill the holes.
2

5. GROOVE OUT THE ELEVATORS FOR JOINER
WIRE CLEARANCE
Cut a groove in the elevator leading edge inside of
the hole
so when the joiner wire is installed it will be flush with
the leading edge of the elevator.
Do both elevator halves.
6. TRIAL FIT THE JOINER WIRE
Temporarily install the elevator joiner wire into the
elevator halves. Check to make sure that this assembly is
aligned properly. Bend the joiner arms
if necessary for a perfect
fit.
DO NOT GLUE THE JOINER WIRE TO THE ELEVATOR
HALVESUNTILAFTERTHE PIECESARE COVEREDLATER.
7. CUT HINGE SLOTS FOR THE STAB AND
ELEVATOR
Mark and cut the hingeslots for the stab and elevator
halves as you did with the fin and rudder. See the plans for
locations. Shape the leading edges of the elevator halves to a
V’.
READ THIS FIRST BEFORE YOU START BUILDING THE
WING PANELS: It is very important that you buildstraight wings
with no warps or twists or you will get some flying characteristics
you didn’t expect! Be very carefulwhen you align the ribs, spars,
leading edges, trailing edges and sheeting at the various steps
below. All these parts should be in their correct positions before
you glue them in place. Hold or pin the parts in place, then
glue. Use the following instructions to help you build the wing
straight and warp free.
Remember: Anyone can build a wing. Only
a careful builder
can build a straight wing.
BUILDING THE TOP WING
Start the top wing by building two spars from 1/4 x
1/4 x 24 balsa, aleadingedgefrom 1/4 x1/2 x24balsaand
a trailing edge from1/4 x1/4 x 24 balsa. Use waxedpaper
on the plan. Cut the parts, fit them together and then glue
overthe plan. The top wingis built in one piece. You will
build the top wing upside down at first. Use epoxy when
you glue these pieces together in this step.
3

I
2. PREPARE THE RIBS
Draw a rib alignment line down the center of each
top wing rib. Note that the three center ribs have 2 extra notches
for the cabane mounting plate. Draw rib alignment centerlines
down the back of the leading edge and the front of the trailing
edge.
3. ALIGN AND GLUE RIBS, LEADING EDGE AND
TRAILING EDGE TO TOP SPAR
Pin the top spar (the wing will be built (upside
down) over the waxed paper covered plan. Place the ribs on
the spar. Align the ribs at the positions shown on the plans.
Make sure that the three center ribs have the cabane notches
" up " as shown. Shim up the trailing edges of the ribs with the
extra 1/4 x 1/4
x 24 spars, making sure the centerlines you
drew on the ribs are parallel to the building board. When the
ribs are aligned correctly, and at 90 degrees to the building
board, glue the ribs
to the spar. Line up the lines on the ribs
with the line on the leading edge. Glue the ribs
to the leading
edge. Line up the trailing edge line
to the rib lines and glue the
ribs
to the trailing edge.
4. GLUE IN SPAR FILLER BRACE, BOTTOM SPAR
AND SHEAR WEB
Cut out the area between the spar notches on the
two end center ribs for the 1/4 x 9/16 balsa spar filler brace.
Glue in the 1/4 x 9/16 filler brace pieces from the center rib out
past the spar scarf joint on both sides of the center rib. Glue
in the bottom spar. Now cut shear web pieces from 3/32 x 3
x
24 balsa to fit between the spars at the rib bays shown on the
plan. The wing should still be shimmed up with the extra spars
throughout the building process. Use epoxy in this step.
5. ADD THE CABANE HOLDERS
Glue in the two plywood 1/4 x 1/2
x 6 1/2 cabane
wire holders with epoxy into the slots in the htree center ribs.
Make sure the cabane holders are flush with the top edges of
the ribs.
4

6. ADD THE SHEETING AND CAP STRIPS
Cut the sheeting to fit first then glue in place. Glue
on the 1/16
x 2-1/8 x 24 leading edge sheeting, the 1/16 x 7/8
x 24 trailing edge sheeting and the 1/16 x 3 x 15 center section
sheeting. Do not glue the sheeting
to the cabane holders as
you will cut away this sheeting later. Cut cap strips from 1/16
x
3/16 x 36 balsa and glue them in place over the rib edges.
7. ADD 1/4 TRI STOCK BRACES
After the glue is dry, turn the wing over and pin it
down
to the building board. Use 1/4 x 36 triangle stock and cut
pieces
to fit along the length of the cabane holders as shown
on the plan. Glue this 1/4 tri
to the sheeting and to the cabane
holder. Also cut tri stock
to fit on either side of the three center
. ribs on top of the cabane holders. Glue these braces in place.
\
8. ADDTHE REST OFTHE SHEETING
Glue on the1/16
x 2-1/8 x 24leading edge sheeting,
the1/16
x 7/8 x 24trailingedge sheeting and the 1/16 x 3 x 15
center section sheeting. Glue onthe1/16
x 3/16cap strips.
9. ADDTHETRAILINGEDGE
Addthetapered3/8
x 1 x 24balsatrailing edgestock
andthe3/8
x 1 x 6taperedcentertrailingedgepiece.Cutparts
to fit first and then glue them in place. Now cut the curve in the
center trailing edge as shown on the plan and in the photo.
5

BUILDING THE BOTTOM WING
PREPARE WING RIBS
Mark all bottomwing ribs with a rib alignment center-
line. Also draw centerlines down the 1/4
x 1/2 x 24 leading edge
and the 1/4
x 1/2 x 24 trailing edge pieces. There is no top or
bottom to the bottom wing at this point.
2. GLUE THE RIBS TO THE SPAR
Build the right and left wing panels separately. Build
the left panel first. Use the extra spar as a shim at the trailing
edge as you did with the tio wing. Pin the bottom spar over the
plans. Align the ribs to the spar, shim up the trailing edges of
the ribs and glue the ribs
to the spar. Use the 1/4 x 7/8 x 3 wing
hold down block as a spacer for location of ribs #1 and #2.
(Note: These hold downs are the same size as the ones that
glue into the fuselage later.) Do not glue the hold down block
in place yet.
3. ADD LEADING EDGE, TRAILING EDGE, TOP
SPAR, HOLD DOWN AND FILLER
Align the above parts first and then glue in place
(leading edge, trailing edge and top spar). Use epoxy to glue
the hold down in place. Glue the balsa 1/4
x 5/8 x 3 filler above
the hold down and sand the it
to the shape of the rib contour.
4.
6
ADD THE SHEETING
Glue on the 1/16
x 2-118 x 24
leading edge sheeting, the 1/16
x 7/8 x 24 trailing
edge sheeting and the 1/16 x 3
x 15 center section
sheeting. Cut cap strips from 1/16
x 3/16 x 36 balsa
and glue them in place.

5. ADDTHE SHEETINGAND FILLER ONTHEOTHER
SIDE
OF THE WING PANEL
When the glue is dry, turn the wing panel over, realign
it to the board and glue in the balsa filler on the other side of
the hold down. Sand it to shape. Add the leading edge sheeting,
the trailing edge sheeting and the center section sheeting.Add
the cap strips. This completes the left wing panel for now. Re
-
move the panel from the building board when it is dry. Now
build the right wing panel by following steps 1 through
5.
INSTALLING THE WING TIPS
1. GLUE THE WING TIPS TO TOP AND BOTTOM
WING PANELS
Cut
off the sheeting and spars even with the tip rib.
Do not cut
off the leading edge! Glue the wing tips on both the
top and bottom wingslpanels. The tips should be centered on
the tip rib and the leading edge centerline. The wing tips for
the top wing will have to sanded to an angle at the top to fit
against the leading edge. Cut the tip brace pieces from the 114
scrap provided (1/4
x 3 x 11 - 7/8). Add the filler piece at the
lower end of the wing tips, top and bottom. Sand this filler to
shape later after hinging and installing the ailerons. Sand the
leading edge to the rounded shape shown on the plans. Cut
off the spars and sheetingeven with the root rib on the panels.
Cut the inner tip filler from some scrap balsa and add to
the inside
of the tip. Shape it to match the ailerons and
tip filler blocks.
INSTALLING THE CENTER
TRAILING EDGE (BOTTOM WING)
I. MAKE CENTER SECTlON/TORQUE ROD AS -
SEMBLIES
Draw a centerline down the trailing edges of the wing
panels and down the leading edges of the center sections. Cut
a groove along the centerline in the tapered
5/8 x 1 - 3/4 x 3 - 1/2
balsa center section pieces for the aileron torque rods. Notch
the center sections for backward torque rod arm movement.
Glue the brass sleeves of the torque rods into the blocks with
epoxy. Make right and left assemblies. Also notch the trailing
edge of the wing panelfor forward movementof the torque arms.
2. GLUE THE CENTER SECTIONS TO THE WING
PANELS
Use vaseline at the ends of the tube of the torque
rod
so you don't glue the wire to the wing. The rod must be free
to move. Glue the rod/center sections to the wing panels up
the centerlines.

JOINING THE BOTTOM WING PANELS
GLUE THE CENTER RIB TO THE LEFT WING
With the wing panels
" up " , glue the wedge - shaped
balsa center rib
to the root end of the left wing panel. Make
sure the wider edge of the center rib is down and that the
leading edge and trailing edge are centered on the tapered rib.
Use
5 minute epoxy.
PANEL
_
2. SAND THE CENTER RIB TO THE WING PANEL
CONTOUR
Rough cut the center rib to the wing airfoil, leaving
it about
1/8" oversize. Sand the remainder away with a sanding
block
so that the center ribedges areflush with the wing sheeting
surfaces.
3. JOINTHEWING PANELS; ADDTHEWING PLATES
Join the wing panels upsidedown. Line up the lead-
ing and trailing edges of the panels. Use a straight edge to
make sure the leading edge of the wing is straight. Block up
the wing
7/8" at the center and glue the panels together using
slow set epoxy. See the drawing on the plan. Remember the
wing is upside down
at this point! When the glue is dry, turn
the wing over and mark the aileron servo well location. Add the
1/16 x 2 x 3 - 1/4 plywoodwing plateto the bottomof the wing.
I
4. GLASS THE CENTER SECTION OF THE WING
DO NOT OMIT THIS STEP!
Doing so may result in a wing failure during flight!
Coat the area where the wings were joined with 5
minuteepoxy and use a 4 " wide strip of 6 oz. glass ornylon
cloth to reinforce the centerjoint. Saturate the cloth with
epoxy and then wipe
off any extra epoxy. The cloth strip
shouldcover both the top and the bottom
of the wingjoint.
When the epoxy is
dry, sand the center section lightly
without sandinginto the glass cloth.

PREPARE THE AILERONS
Cut the aileron stock
(5/8 x 17-1/2 tapered stock) to
length and draw a centerline down the leading edge of the
ailerons. Mark and drill the torque rod holes. Groove the aileron
for torque rod clearance. Make right and left ailerons.
2. CUTTHE HINGE SLOTS; FINAL SAND THE AILE-
RONS
Mark and cut the hinge slots into the ailerons and
the wing trailing edge. Shape the leading edge
of the ailerons
to a
“V’. Temporarily install the ailerons with hinges to check
the fit. Final sand the wing tips to match the aileron contour at
neutral. Do not permanently hinge the ailerons until after they
are covered.
BUILDING THE FUSELAGE
1. PREPARE THE FUSELAGE SIDES
,
Mark the inside of the fuselage sides “right” and
“left”. Cut out part of the wing saddle area at the rear as shown
on the plan.
STOP! If you plan to install a 4 - cycle engine, read and follow
the instructions on installation of 4
- cycle engines at the end of
this instruction book.
LEFT
2. PREPARE THE BULKHEADS
Locate the 1/4
x 3 x 2-3/4 plywood Bulkhead #1, the
Firewall. Mark the “top” of the firewall (the bottom has a slight
angle). Mark the position of the motor mount. Mark and drill the
holes for the motor mount
4 - 40 screws. Put the 4 - 40 blind nuts
, in positions in these holes you drilled. Temporarily place the
mount on the firewall with the screws. Cut the screws
off in
back of the firewall
so they won’t get in the way of the fuel tank.
Notch a hole in Bulkhead #2 for the throttle linkage. Prepare
Bulkhead #3 by drilling holes for the outer pushrod housings.
,
9

3.DGLUETHEDOUBLERSTO THE FUSELAGESIDES
UsingBulkhead #1 as a spacer, install the 1/8" balsa
doublers crossgrain onthe inside of the fuselage sides. Cut the
doubler pieces from 1/8 x 3 x 36 balsa first, position andthen
glue inplace. Use slow set epoxy or thick cyanoacrylate. The
doubler should extend 1/4"beyond the position of bulkhead #3.
Trimthe doublers to the fuselage contour.
Note: Becareful when you cut the doubler stock as you need
to usewhat isleft inthe next step.
4.D BUILDTHETHREE REAR FORMERS
Make Formers #4,5 and 6 from 1/8x 1/4x 36balsa.
Usethe plans as a guide andcut the balsa to size. Glue the
parts together to make the three formers. Make push rod braces
from scrap 1/8x 3 x 36 left over fromthe doubler stock inthe
step you just did.The widths of the braces are the same as
that of each of the formers. The braces will beinstalled when
the pushrods are installed later.STOP! Did you read the4-cycle
engineinstructions ifyou planto install a 4-cycle?
DMARK BULKHEAD POSITIONS
Mark the positions of bulkheads #2 and #3 onthe
fuselagesides.Also mark the position of thebalsadashbetween
#2 and#3. Markthe positions of the cabane blocks now ifyou
wish.
6.D DRILL PUSHROD EXIT HOLES
Markanddrill the holes inthe fuselage sides for the
pushrodexits for the elevator and rudder.See the plans for
suggested positions of the pushrods to estimate the hole posi-
tions. A piece of brass tubing sharpened on the inside with an
X-Acto knife blade makes a neat,clean angled hole for tube-
style pushrods.
10

FIT THE WING TO THE FUSELAGE
Pin the fuselage sides together perfectly lined up.
Check the fit to the wing saddle cutout by placingthe fuse sides
on the wing. Custom sand
if necessary but do not change the
wing incidence.
8. SAND FUSELAGE TAIL; GLUE BULKHEADS #2
AND #3 TO THE RIGHT FUSELAGE SIDE
Slightly sand the insides of the fuse sides at the tail
for a better glue joint. Pinthe rightfuse side to your work surface.
Position the bulkheads correctly (the angle
is at the bottom)
and glue them in place at
90 degrees to the fuse side.
NOTE:The straight edge at the top of the fuselage side is called
the Fuselage Reference Line and will be used later to align the
wing and stab to the fuselage.
9. GLUE LEFT FUSELAGE SIDE TO THE BUL -
KHEADS
Align the fuselage sidelbulkhead assembly upside
down over the top view of the plans. Make sure the flat side is
resting flat on the building board and that the bulkheads are
aligned to the plans. Pin the fuselage in place. Glue the left
fuse side to bulkheads
#2 and #3 making sure the left fuse
side is also flat to the building board. Clamp or pin the fuselage
in place until the glue is dry.
10. GLUE IN THE HOLD DOWN PLATES
The hold down plates are 1/4
x 7/8 x 3 plywoodjust
like the hold down plates in the bottom wing. Glue the front
hold down to Bulkhead
#2 and the fuse side doublers. Glue
the balsa 1/8
x 3/4 x 3 false bulkhead to the fuse side doublers
at the rear of the wing saddle. Glue the rear hold down to the
false bulkhead and doublers. Glue 1/4"triangle stock to the top
and bottomof both holddown plates. Use 1/4 tri
x 36 balsastock.
11

GLUE IN BULKHEAD
Realign the fuselage upside down over the plans
and glue the fuse sides
to bulkhead#1 . Makesurethe top of
the bulkhead is flat on the building board and that the front of
the bulkhead is facing forward.
12. ADD 1/4" TRI BRACING
Add three pieces of 114 triangle stock along the back
of the firewall. Extend the throttle linkage hole through the tri
stock.
13. GLUE FORMERS TO DECK BASE
Notchthe1/2 balsadeckbaseatthecorners
to clear
thedoublerasshown on the plans. Thedeckbase should butt
up
to the doubler. Pin the deck base over the plans to your
worksurface.Markthe location ofFormers #4, #5 and
#6.
Check the fit of the formers and glue them to the deck base
making sure they are
90 degrees to the base.
14. PREPAREFORMER BRACES FOR PUSHROD
HOUSINGS
Temporarilyput the fuselage/bulkhead assembly
overthedeck base. Use a pushrod housing and markthe loca
-
tion of the housing holes inthe former braces. Make surethe
housing follows asstraight apath aspossiblefrombulkhead
#3 to the exit. Drill the holesinthe braces. Temporarilyinstall
the housings
to check your work. Remove the housings.. Tube
ina tube style pushrods areshown here but other typesmay
be used.
12

15. GLUE THE FUSELAGE TO THE DECK BASE
Gluethe fuselagesides/bulkhead assembly to the
deck base former assembly. Fuselage sides are glued to the
sides of the deck base and the sides of the formers. The deck
base glues to the rear of bulkhead
#3.
DO NOT GLUE THE FUSELAGE SIDES TOGETHER ATTHE
TAIL UNTIL THE NEXT STEP!
16. GLUE THE HINGE/FUSELAGE TAIL;GLUE
THE FUSE SIDES TOGETHER ATTHE TAIL
Glue the rudder hinge just below the stab location.
Use the rudder hinge slot as a guide to placement.
Keeping
the area open where the tail wheel strut mounting tab will
glue later,
glue the fuse sides together at the tail.
17. GLUE PUSHROD BRACES TO FORMERS; GLUE
PUSHROD HOUSINGS TO BRACES
Usingthepushrod housings as guides, glue the
braces to the formers. Rough up the housings with sandpaper
intheareasofBulkhead#3,thebraces and theexits.Using
cyanoacrylate glue, glue both elevator and rudder housings in
place except at Bulkhead
#3. This will be glued later when the
servosare installed.You may trimthe housingsat the exits now.
18. GLUE IN 1/4 BRACING ATTHE TAIL
Glue 1/4" triangle stock at the bottom sides of the
deckbase between former #6 andthetail. Angle
- cut the ends
of the tri stock at the tail for a good glue joint.
13

ADD THE LANDING GEAR BRACES
Glueinthe grooved 1/2
x 1 - 5/16 x 3 - 1/2landinggear
block at the bottom ofbulkhead
#2. Addthe1/2 trianglestock
along the frontofbulkhead #2 andthe top ofthe landing gear
block.Cut the braces from1/2"
x 6stock.Youmaysolderthe
main gear now but do not install until after the model is finished.
Note
- Thewider slot (groove)inthe landing gearblockis
positioned toward the front of the model for main gear place
-
ment. The brace fits into the smaller slot.
20. GLUE THE CHIN BLOCK TO THE FUSELAGE
With the fuselage still at
90 degrees to the board
and over the plans, align the chin block to the front of the landing
gear block and gluethe chin block to the fuselage. (The fuselage
is notshown aligned
to theplans in the photo.)
21. ADDTHEBALSA BOTTOM SHEETING
With all pins removedfrom the inside of the fuselage,
cross
- grain sheet the bottom rear of the fuselage. Use 3/32 x
3 x 24 balsa and cut pieces to fit. Start at the false bulkhead
and work your way back, gluing one piece at a time. Leave the
last section of sheeting out untilthe tail wheel bracket is installed
later. When the glue is dry, remove the fuselage from your
building board and sand the bottom sheeting to shape.
22. PREPARE TOP FORMERS 1ATHROUGH 3B
Preparethe fuselagetop formers bynumberingthem
to matchthe plans. Mark the locationsof thestringersonformers
3Aand6A by referring
to the plans. Glue former 3B totheback
of3A.Glueformer6Bto the frontof 6A.Drawthe location lines
forthe cockpit floor onthe back ofthedashandonthefront
ofthe 3A/3B assembly.
14

23. ADDFORMERS 1AAND 2A
Glueformers 1A and2Ato the
tops ofbulkheads 1
and
2. Whentheglueisdry sand the tops ofthese formers to
a slight angle so the top blockwillmate squarely when glued.
Trialfit the assembled fuel tank.Carve out asection offormer
2Aforfueltank clearance
if necessary. If youleavethetankin
permanently,plug all fuel lines
so balsadustdoes not enter the
lines.
24. ADDTHEDASHANDFORMERS3N3B
Pinthe hood top inplacetodetermine the heightof
thedash. Put the cockpit floor inpositiontodetermine the
placementofthe dash on the fuseside.Gluethe dash
to the
fuse sides. Do not glue on thehood top yet.Glueformer3A/3B
to the fuselage at the rear ofthe cockpit ontop ofbulkhead#3.
. 25. GLUE IN THE COCKPIT FLOOR
Glueinthe balsa cockpit floorbetween
the dash and former 3A/3Bon thelinesyoudrewearlier.
26. SOLDER THE CABANE WIRE
The cabanes for the
top wing are permanently instal -
led into the fuselage. Cut the sheetingout over the cabane wire
holders in the top wing. With the wing level on your work surface
and the bottom side of the wing up, place the cabanes into the
slots in the holders. The bent ends of the cabanes should face
each other. Wrap the wire bracesto the cabanes with the copper
wire provided. With the cabanes
90 degrees to the wing, solder
the bottom (nearest the wing) wire wrapped end of the cabane
on both sides. Then solder the
top wire wrapped end without
losing the alignment to the wing.
15
.

27. PREPARE SMALL CABANE BLOCKS
Clearance holes will have to be cut in the small
cabane blocks for cabane wire clearance. Place the blocks on
the cabane wire ends. The blocks should line up with the top
of the fuselage. Clamp the blocks to the fuselage.Do not glue
the blocks yet!
28. ALIGN THE TOP WING TO THE FUSELAGE
Align the Fuselage Reference Line (top side of the
fuselage side) parallel
to the work surface. The fuselage should
be right side up. Place the top wing onto the cabanes. Line up
the top wing to the work surface and the fuselage as shown in
the drawings. Distance A should equal distance A, B should
equal B and C should equal C. When the top wing is properly
aligned, mark the positions of the cabane brace blocks in the
fuselage. Use slow set epoxy and glue the blocks in place. Fill
in the areas around the wires in the blocks with epoxy. Glue on
the 1/16 x 112
x 1-112 plywood cabane brace caps. Recheck
the alignment before the glue sets up.
When the glue is dry,
fill in the slots in the cabane wing holders
in the wing with silicone. Put car wax or similar material on the
cabane wires and placethe wing back on the cabanes. Remove
the excess silicone that may ooze out
of the slot. This silicone
that you added makes a good seat for the wires and cuts down
on vibration. After the wing is covered later, you will attach the
top wing to the cabanes with the aluminum plates and the #2
x 3/8 screws provided.Ttie plates should be flush with the wing
sheeting. Note
- Make sure you do not disturb the wing align -
ment when you apply the silicone to the cabane slots. The wires
should still touch the bottom of the slots in the holders; the
silicone fills in around the sides of the wires in the slot.
29. 0 PREPARETHEBALSAHOOD SIDE PIECES
The 1/4x 1
- 3/8 x 17 - 1I2 balsa hood side pieces need
to be twisted slightly to fit the front of the fuselage. To make it
easy to twist the balsa as required,
" paint " some ammonia on
both pieces of the balsa sheets. Place one end in a vise and
twist the other end somewhat more than is required. Hold or
clamp this end until the wood dries (about 15 minutes). Note
that thetwist inthe right piece
is oppositethat of the left piece.
30. GLUE ON THE HOOD SIDE PIECES
Sand the bottoms of the hood side pieces
so they
will mate squarely with the fuselage sides. Notch out the side
pieces for cabane wire clearance. You can
fill in these notched
holes later. Glue the side pieces from the front of former 3A/3B
to beyondformer 1A inthe followingmanner.To preventatwisted
fuselage, glue both pieces at the same time, a little at a time,
starting at former 3A/3B. Also make sure the hood side pieces
extend outside former 3A/3B and the fuse sides slightly
so they
can be sanded to contour later.
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31. SAND THE TOPS OF THE HOOD SIDE PIECES
top of the formers
so the hood top will mate squarely.
Sand the tops of the hood side pieces flush with the
32. GLUE ON THE HOOD TOP; SAND HOOD SIDES
AT COCKPIT
Trim the hood top at the cabanes first before you
glue it on as it is a little difficult to sand in that area after the
hood top is glued on. Glue the hood top in place. Trim the hood
sides at the cockpit as shown on the plans.
33. ADDFORMER6A/6B
Pin the stabilizer in place
so the stab is aligned with
the back of the fuselage. Mark the position of former 6A/6B.
Remove the stab. Glue 6A/6B in place.
34. GLUE ON TOP STRINGER
Use the 1/4
x 1/4 x 16 balsa stock and cut the top
stringertofitbetweenformers3A/3Band6A/6B.Gluethe
stringer in place.
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35. ADD FORMERS 4A AND 5A
Locate the positions of formers 4A and 5A by placing
a straight edge along the top stringer. Place and gluetheformers
so they mate with the top stringer and and are centered from
side to side.
36. ADD THE TURTLE DECK STRINGERS
Use the 1/8
x 1/4 x 16 balsa stock and cut stringers
to fit. Start by gluing at 6A/6Bfirst, checking with a straight
edge first, and then gluing
to 5A, 4A and 3A/3B.
37. PREPARE AND GLUE IN THE SIDE NOSE
BLOCKS; FINAL SAND THE FUSELAGE FRONT
Groove the inside of the nose side block (right or left
depending on your engine) for the throttle linkage clearance.
Using
5 minute, glue the nose side blocks in place. Remove
excess epoxy at the chin block joint. Carve and rough sand the
hood top, hood sides and chin block
to the shape of the nose
side pieces. The next few photos will help you
to see the shape
needed. Don’t take
too much off until you mount the engine
next to see where you need clearance.
38. TEMPORARILY MOUNT THE ENGINE TO THE
Temporarily install your mount with the 4
- 40 bolts
provided. Place the engine on the mount. Cut away areas of
the engine compartment
so the engine rests flat on the mount.
Check for binding of the throttle arm. Mark and drill the holes
in the mount for engine mount bolts. Tap the holes for bolts and
nuts or use self
- tapping bolts to hold the engine on the mount.
The engine has no down thrust or right thrust.
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39. ADD NOSE FILLER BLOCK AND SPINNER RING
Using your engine as a guide, locate the placement
of the 2
- 1/4 x 2 - 1/4 x 1/2 nose filler block. The engine thrust
washer should extend 1/16 to 1/8 inches forward of the filler
block. Cut away areas on the block for engine clearance. The
placement of these parts depends on what brand spinner you
will use. Inspect your spinner backplate and locate the block
accordingly. When you are sure of the placement, glue the cross-
grain nose filler block in place. Sand the front of the nose
so
the front of the filler block and the front of the nose side pieces
are even. Glue the 1/16 plywood spinner ring in place on the
filler block using your engine and spinner backplate as a guide
for placement. The engine shaft should be centered in the hole
in the spinner ring.
40.
ADD 3/8 TRI STOCK TO THE NOSE; SAND NOSE
TO SHAPE
.
Remove the engine and add the 3/8 triangle stock
along the bottom sides of the engine compartment and behind
the filler block. Use 3/8 x 12 triangle stock for this step. Custom
fit these pieces
so they glue to the firewall and nose filler block.
Now sand and carve the nose of the fuselage to the shape of
the spinner ring.
41. DRILL FUEL LINE HOLES AND A DRAIN HOLE
Drill the holes in former 1A for the fuel lines. See
the plan for placement. Drill a hole in the bottom of the engine
compartment just in fron of the firewall for fuel drainage.
42. ALIGN THE STABILIZER TO THE FUSELAGE
First align the fuselage to your flat work surface like
you did before by making sure the Fuselage Reference Line is
parallel to the work surface. Now align the stabilizer to the
fuselage in the following manner: A
- Draw a centerline down
the stab bed at the end of the fuselage. Line up the stab center-
line to the fuse centerline. B
- Measure from each stab tip to a
point at the centerof the top of the firewall area. Each measure
-
ment should be the same. CMeasure from each stab tip to
the work surface. Each measurement should be the same. D-
To make sure you have zero degrees incidence, measure from
the center of the leading edge to the work surface. Measure
from the center of the trailing edge to the work surface. These
distances should be the same. When the stabilizer is aligned,
do not glue in place but go on to the next step.
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43. PREPARE THE FIN FILLER BLOCKS; GLUE ON
THE STAB, FIN AND FIN FILLER BLOCK
Prepare the fin filler blocks by cutting them
to pick
up the angle of the top stringer. Then sand them
to the contour
of the stringers. Shaping and sanding is easy if you tack glue
scraps of balsa the thickness of the stab and fin to the fuselage.
Trim the scrap even with the fuse sides and stringer line, then
tack glue the blocks in place and razor plane and sand them
to shape. When ready, break the blocks loose and remove and
discard the scrap. Use epoxy and glue the stabilizer to the
fuselage. Glue the fin to the stab at
90 degrees to the stab and
aligned on the stab centerline. Glue the fin
to the stab at 90
degrees to the stab and aligned on the stab centerline. Glue
the prepared fin filler blocks in place with
5 minute epoxy. Re -
move excess epoxy.
44. ADD DORSAL FIN AND FILLER PIECES
Use scrap balsa and custom make the dorsal fin
piece and filler pieces. Glue the dorsal fin to the fin and
1/4"
top stringer. Glue the filler pieces between the top stringer and
the next stringer on each sdie of the dorsal fin. These filler
pieces are used to anchor the covering material later.
45. ADD TAIL WHEEL STRUT; FINISH RUDDER
Glue the tail wheel strut in place as shown on the
plans. Use
5 minute and clamp the tail until dry. Add the last
piece of bottom sheeting. Mark and drill the hole for the tail
wheel tiller arm in the rudder. Also groove the rudder leading
edge below the hole for the nylon bearing clearance. Shape
the leading edge of the rudder
to a " V " .
FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. ALIGN THE BOlTOM WING TO THE FUSELAGE
AND TOP WING
Align the fuselage upside down to the work surface
by placing the fuselage reference line parallel
to the work sur -
face. Align the bottom wing to the fuselage by makingthe follow -
ing measurements: A - Center the wing side to side in the sad -
dle. The distance from the fuselage side to the wing tip on each
side should be the same. &The wing tip to stab tip distance
should be the same on both sides. &Wing tip to work surface
and top wing tip to bottomwing tip distance should be the same
on both sides. D
- The bottom wing has a positive incidence of
+ 1/32 " to the top wing. This means that the leading edge of
the bottom wing should be 1/32" closer to the top wing than
the trailing edge of the bottom wing is. When the wing is in the
correct position, mark the fuselage and wing
so you can position
the wing exactly the same again.
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