HARVEY JIB W0903X User manual

14" Variable Speed
Wood Lathe
JIB W0903X
INSTRUCTION MANUAL

GENERAL SAFETY RULES
Woodworking can be dangerous if safe and proper operating procedures are not followed. As with all machinery, there
are certain hazards involved with the operation of the product. Using the machine with respect and caution will con-
siderably lessen the possibility of personal injury. However, if normal safety precautions are overlooked or ignored, per-
sonal injury to the operator may result. Safety equipment such as guards, push sticks, hold-downs, featherboards,
goggles, dust masks and hearing protection can reduce your potential for injury. But even the best guard won’t make
up for poor judgment, carelessness or inattention. Always use common sense and exercise caution in the workshop.
If a procedure feels dangerous, don’t try it. Figure out an alternative procedure that feels safer. REMEMBER: Your
personal safety is your responsibility.
This machine was designed for certain applications only. Delta Machinery strongly recommends that this machine not
be modified and/or used for any application other than that for which it was designed. If you have any questions rela-
tive to a particular application, DO NOT use the machine until you have first contacted Delta to determine if it can or
should be performed on the product.
WARNING: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE RULES MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY
1. FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ INSTRUCTION
MANUALBEFOREOPERATINGTHETOOL.Learnthetool’s
application and limitations as well as the specific hazards
peculiar to it.
2. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.
3. ALWAYSWEAREYEPROTECTION.Wearsafety glass-
es. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses;
they are not safety glasses. Also use face or dust mask if
cutting operation is dusty. These safety glasses must con-
form to ANSI Z87.1 requirements. NOTE: Approved glass-
es have Z87 printed or stamped on them.
4. REMOVEADJUSTINGKEYSANDWRENCHES. Form
habitof checkingtoseethat keysandadjustingwrenchesare
removed from tool before turning it “on”.
5. KEEPWORKAREACLEAN.Clutteredareasandbench-
es invite accidents.
6. DON’T USE IN DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT. Don’t
use power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose them to
rain. Keep work area well-lighted.
7. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY. All children
and visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area.
8. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILDPROOF –with padlocks,
master switches, or by removing starterkeys.
9. DON’T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and be
safer at the rate for which it wasdesigned.
10. USERIGHTTOOL.Don’t forcetoolorattachmenttodoa
job for which it was not designed.
11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL. No loose clothing,gloves,
neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry to get caught in
moving parts. Nonslip footwear is recommended. Wear pro-
tective hair covering to contain long hair.
12. SECUREWORK.Useclampsoravisetoholdworkwhen
practical. It’s saferthanusingyour handandfreesbothhands
to operate tool.
13. DON’T OVERREACH.Keepproperfootingand balance
at all times.
14. MAINTAIN TOOLS IN TOP CONDITION. Keep tools
sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow
instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
15. DISCONNECT TOOLS before servicing and when
changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters, etc.
16. USERECOMMENDEDACCESSORIES.Theuseof
accessoriesandattachmentsnotrecommendedbyDelta
may cause hazards or risk of injury topersons.
2
17. REDUCE THE RISK OF UNINTENTIONAL STARTING .
Make sure switch is in “OFF” position before plugging in
power cord. In the event of a power failure, move switch
to the “OFF” position.
18. NEVERSTANDONTOOL.Seriousinjurycouldoccur
if the tool istipped or if the cutting tool is accidentally con-
tacted.
19. CHECKDAMAGEDPARTS.Beforefurtheruseof the
tool,aguardorother part that isdamagedshould be care-
fullycheckedtoensurethatitwilloperateproperlyandper-
form its intendedfunction –checkfor alignment of moving
parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mount-
ing, and any other conditionsthat may affect its operation.
A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly
repaired or replaced.
20. DIRECTIONOFFEED.Feed work into a bladeor cut-
ter against the direction of rotation of the blade or cutter
only.
21. NEVER LEAVE TOOL RUNNING UNATTENDED.
TURN POWER OFF. Don’t leave tool until it comes to a
complete stop.
22. STAY ALERT, WATCH WHAT YOU ARE DOING, AND
USE COMMON SENSE WHEN OPERATING A POWER
TOOL. DO NOT USE TOOL WHILE TIRED OR UNDER
THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS, ALCOHOL, OR MEDICA-
TION. A moment of inattention while operating power tools
may result in serious personal injury.
23. MAKE SURE TOOL IS DISCONNECTED FROM
POWERSUPPLYwhilemotorisbeingmounted, connect-
ed or reconnected.
24. THE DUST GENERATED bycertainwoodsand wood
products can be injurious to your health. Always operate
machinery in well ventilated areas and provide for proper
dustremoval.Usewooddustcollectionsystemswhenever
possible.
25. WARNING: SOME DUST CREATED BY
POWER SANDING, SAWING, GRINDING, DRILLING,
AND OTHER CONSTRUCTION ACTIVITIES contains
chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other
reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals
are:
· lead from lead-based paints,
· crystalline silica from bricks and cement and other
masonry products, and
· arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated lumber.
Your risk from these exposures varies, depending on how
often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure
to these chemicals: work in a well ventilated area, and
work with approved safety equipment, such as those
dust masks that are specially designed to filter out micro-
scopic particles.

ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULESFOR
WOOD LATHES
1. WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THIS TOOL UNTIL
it is completely assembled and installed according to the
instructions.
2. OBTAIN ADVICE from your supervisor, instructor or
some other qualified person if you are not thoroughly
familiar with operating this tool.
3. FOLLOW ALL WIRING CODES and recommended
electrical connections and properly ground the tool.
4. CLEAR THE LATHE BED OF ALL OBJECTS (tools,
scraps of wood, etc.) before turning the tool “ON”.
5. EXAMINE THE SET-UP CAREFULLY before turning on
the power.
6. ADJUST THE TOOL REST HEIGHT properly.
7. ADJUST THE TOOL REST as close to the workpiece
as possible.
8. ROTATE THE WORKPIECE BY HAND to check
clearance before engaging power .
9. NEVER ADJUST THE TOOL REST while the workpiece
is turning.
10. REMOVE THE TOOL REST before sanding or polish-
ing.
11. DISENGAGE THE INDEX PIN prior to starting the
tool.
12. SNUG THE TAILSTOCK CENTER against the work-
piece and lock it when turning between centers. Lubricate
the tailstock center if it is not a ball bearing center.
13. NEVER DRIVE THE WORKPIECE into the drive
center while the drive center is in the headstock. Set the
drive center into the workpiece with a soft mallet prior to
installing it into the headstock.
14. NEVER LOOSEN THE TAILSTOCK SPINDLE or the
tailstock while workpiece is turning.
15. SECURELY FASTEN THE WORKPIECE to the face-
plate during faceplate turning. Use the appropriate size
faceplate to properly support the workpiece. Be sure that
the screw fasteners do not interfere with the turning tool
at the finished dimension of the workpiece.
16. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES, NECKTIE, OR LOOSE
CLOTHING when operating this tool.
17. ROUGH CUT THE WORKPIECE as close as possible
to the finished shape before installing it on the faceplate.
18. TIGHTEN ALL CLAMP LOCKING HANDLES before
operating.
19. EXAMINE THE WORKPIECE FOR FLAWS and test
glue joints before placing the workpiece in tool. DO NOT
mount a split workpiece or one containing a knot.
20. MOVE THE CUTTING TOOL INTO THE WORKPIECE
SLOWLY, and cut small amounts when roughing.
21. USE THE LOWEST SPEED when starting a newwork-
piece.
22. OPERATE THE TOOL at the recommended speeds.
Consult the owner’s manual for suggested speeds.
23. DO NOT EXCEED RECOMMENDED SPEEDS when
turning outboard workpieces.
24. MAKE ALL ADJUSTMENTS (except for the variable
speed adjustment) with the power “OFF”.
25. DISCONNECT THE TOOL FROM THE POWER
SOURCE when making repairs.
26. DISCONNECT THE TOOL from the power source and
clean the machine before leaving it.
27. CLEAN THE WORK AREA before leaving the
machine.
28. IF ANY PART OF YOUR TOOL IS MISSING,
DAMAGED, OR FAILS, or if any electrical component
performs improperly, shut off the switch and remove the
plug from the power supply. Replace missing, damaged, or
failed parts before resuming operation.
29. CAUTION: TO REDUCE THE RISK OF INJURY, wear
safety glasses and face and head protection when
operating this tool.
30. THE USE OF ATTACHMENTS and accessories not
recommended by Delta may result in the risk of injuries.
31. IMPORTANT: When the tool is not in use, the
switch should be locked in the “OFF” position to pre-
vent unauthorized use.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
Refer to them often
and use them to instruct others.
3

UNPACKING AND CLEANING
Carefully unpack the tool and all loose items from the shipping container(s). Remove the protective coating from all
unpainted surfaces. This coating may be removed with a soft cloth moistened with kerosene (do not use acetone,
gasoline or lacquer thinner for this purpose). After cleaning, cover the unpainted surfaces with a good quality paste wax.
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, DO NOT CONNECT THE TOOL TO THE POWER SOURCE UNTIL THE
TOOL IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED, AND YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND THE ENTIRE OWNER’S MANUAL.
CARTON CONTENTS
Fig. 1
1. Headstock Assembly
2. Tool Rest Assembly
1. Knockout Bar
2. Spindle Wrench
3. Live Center
4. Drive Center
Fig. 2
3. Tailstock Assembly
4. Lathe Bed
5. Leg (4)
6. Short Tie Bar (2)
7. Stand Top
8. Long Tie Bar (2)
5. M8 x 35mm Hex Head Screws (8)
6. M8 x 16mm Carriage Bolts (24)
7. FlatWashers(32)
8. Lockwashers(32)
9. Nuts (32)
4
3
4 5
6
7 9
8
2
1
6
7
5
8
4
3
2
1

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
ASSEMBLING STAND(OPTIONAL)
1. Attach the two long tie bars (A) Fig. 3 (with flanges up)
to the center of each stand leg (B) by using eight carriage
bolts through the legs and tie bars, secured by flat wash-
ers, lockwashers, and hex nuts. NOTE: Do not completely
tighten hardware at this time.
2. Attach two short tie bars (C) Fig. 3 (with flanges up), to
each leg (B), using eight carriage bolts through the legs and
tie bars, secured by flat washers, lockwashers, and hex
nuts.
3. Attach the two stand tops (D) Fig. 3 to the inside of the
top of stand legs (B) using twelve carriage bolts through the
leg, then through the stand top. Secure with flat washers,
lockwashers, and hex nuts.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7 Fig. 8
ATTACHING LATHE BED TO STAND
The 46-715 lathe comes attached to plyboard. To attach the lathe bed to the stand:
1. Remove the security bars (A) Fig. 4 that are attached to both ends of the lathe bed by removing the two screws (B) Fig.
4 that secure it.
2. CAUTION: The headstock is very heavy. Have someone help remove it from the lathe bed.
3. Loosen the lock handle (A) Fig. 5 and slide the headstock off the end of the lathe bed.
4. Loosen the lock handle (A) Fig. 6 and slide the tool rest off the end of the lathe bed.
5. Loosen the lock handle (A) Fig. 7and slide the tailstock off the end of the lathe bed.
6. Remove the two bolts (one is shown at (A) Fig. 8) to free the lathe bed from the plyboard.
5
A
A
A
B
A
C
C
B
D
B
A
A

7. CAUTION: The lathe bed is heavy. Have someone help lift it on the stand.
8. Position the lathe bed so that the holes in the lathe bed are directly above the
holes in the stand.
9. Secure the lathe bed to the stand using the eight M8 x 35mm Hex head screws
(A) Fig. 9 through the lathe bed and through the stand. Attach a washer, lockwasher,
and nut and tighten securely.
10. Before tightening all hardware, press down on stand until legs adjust to floor
surface. Securely tighten all hardware.
11. Slide the tool rest and tailstock back into the lathe bed.
12. Have someone help lift the headstock on the lathe bed and slide it into position.
HEADSTOCK SPUR CENTER
The 46-715 comes with a faceplate attached. Before inserting the spur center in the
spindle, this faceplate must beremoved. Insert the knockout bar(A)Fig. 10inthe side
holeof the spindle (B)Fig.10to hold the spindle inplace. Usethe suppliedwrench (C)
Fig. 10 to loosen the faceplate. Remove the faceplate (D) by turning it counterclock-
wise with your hand. The spur center (A) Fig.11 is equipped witha No. 2 Morse Taper
shank.Insertthisshankintotheheadstockspindle(B).NOTE:Beforeinsertingthespur
center (A), clean both the shank of the spur center and the inside of the headstock
spindle to remove anygrease or debris. To remove the tapered shank spur center (A)
Fig.11fromtheheadstockspindle(B)Fig.11,usetheknockoutbar(C)Fig.12through
the hole (D) in the opposite end of the spindle to push the spur center out.
IMPORTANT: NEVER DRIVE THE WORKPIECE INTO THE SPUR CENTER WHEN
IT IS MOUNTED IN THE HEADSTOCK.
See instructions on setting the spur center into the workpiece in the “OPERATION“
section of this manual under “CENTERING THE WORK.”
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
TAILSTOCK LIVE CENTER Fig. 12 Fig. 13
The tailstock live center (A) Fig. 13, supplied with your lathe, is equipped with a No. 2 Morse Taper shank. NOTE: Before
inserting the live center, clean both the shank and the inside of the tailstock to remove any grease or debris. To remove the
live center (A) from the tailstock spindle (B), use the knockout bar through the hole in the opposite end of the spindle (in the
same manner as the headstock).
ADJUSTING CLAMPS ON THE HEADSTOCK AND TAILSTOCK
The headstock and tailstock can be moved along the lathe bed. A downward push on the tailstock handle (A) Fig. 14 locks
the mechanism, while an upward movement of the handle releasesthe securing action. The headstock (A) Fig. 15 is loosened
by moving the handle (B) to the right. The clamps are pre-set at the factory. However, should either need adjusting, use a
15/16" wrench to slightly loosen or tighten the nut (A) Fig. 16 shown here on the tailstock. NOTE: Clamp headstock and
tailstock firmly before operating the lathe.
Fig. 14 Fig. 15
6 Fig. 16
A
B
A
B A
D
C
B
A
A
B
D
C
A
A B
A

TOOL REST
To position the tool rest on the lathe bed, lift up clamp handle (C) Fig. 17, move the tool rest base to the desired
position and lock in place by pushing down on handle (C). To adjust the tool rest (A) Fig. 17 to the correct height,
loosen locking lever (D), move tool rest (A) up or down and tighten locking lever (D) The 46-715 has a unique feature
in this tool rest. The rest can be used for both spindle turning or faceplate turning. Use the tool rest as shown in Fig.
17 for normal spindle or small faceplate turning. Add the extension to turn larger work on the faceplate (Fig. 18).
NOTE : CLAMP TOOL REST FIRMLY BEFORE OPERATING THE LATHE.
ADJUSTING CLAMP ON TOOL REST
To adjust the tool rest clamping action, use a 15/16" wrench to adjust the nut (A) Fig. 16 in the same manner as the
headstock and tailstock.
Fig. 17
ATTACHING ON/OFF SWITCH TO TOOL
Fig. 18
The ON/OFF Switch comes unattached to the tool to protect it from damage in shipping. Toattach the ON/OFF
Switch:
1. Remove the two hex bolts (A) Fig. 19 that are attached to the back of the headstock, located near the top.
2. Align the two holes in the bottom of the ON/OFF Switch with the two holes where the hex bolts were removed in
STEP 1.
3. Secure the ON/OFF Switch to the headstock with the bolts that were removed in STEP 1 (Fig. 20).
Fig. 19 Fig. 20
7
A
A
D
C

STARTING AND STOPPING THE
TOOL
The switch (A) Fig. 21 provides electrical power to the
tool. To start the tool, lift the safety cover (B) and lift the
switch to the “ON” position. To stop the tool, push the
safetycover(B) down. NOTE: IN CASE OFEMERGENCY,
IMMEDIATELY PUSH THE SAFETY COVER (B) DOWN TO
SHUT OFF POWER.
LOCKING SWITCH IN THE
“OFF” POSITION
IMPORTANT: When the tool is not in use, the switch
should be locked in the “OFF” position (A) Fig. 22 to
prevent unauthorized use, using a padlock (B) Fig.
22, with a 3/16" diameter shackle inserted through
the holes in the switch plate.
SPINDLE SPEEDS
Fig. 21 Fig. 22
IMPORTANT: UNLOCK THE SPINDLE LOCK BEFORE OPERATING THE TOOL. THE UNLOCKED POSITION IS SHOWN
IN FIG. 24A WHILE THE LOCKED POSITION IS SHOWN IN FIG. 24B.
IMPORTANT: CHANGE SPEEDS ONLY WHEN TOOL IS RUNNING.
This tool provides variable rate spindle speeds from 450 to 2600 RPM. To change speeds, depress the release (A) Fig.
23 and rotate the lever (B). Turning the lever clockwise increases the speed while turning it counterclockwise decreas-
es the speed.
Fig. 23
ALIGNING HEADSTOCK
CENTER TO
TAILSTOCK CENTER
The tailstock will move slightly when it is tightened. To
ensure that the tailstock center will always be in line with
the headstock center:
1. Install the pointed centers (A) and (B) Fig. 25 into the
spindles.
2. Loosen locking lever (back side of tailstock), and
slide the tailstock (D) to the left until the tailstock center
(B) is almost contacting the headstock center (A).
Tighten the locking lever. Check to see if the tailstock
center point (B)isinline with the headstock center point
(A).
3. To adjust, loosen the headstock locking shaft (C)
Fig. 25, and align the headstock center point to the tail-
stock center point. Tighten the locking shaft (C) Fig. 25.
8
Fig. 24A
Fig. 25
Fig. 24B
A
B
A
B
A
B
C
D
A
B

OPERATION
The following directions will give the inexperienced operator a beginning point for common lathe operations.
Practice on scrap material before attempting serious work.
LATHE TOOLS
Standard wood turning tools come in several different
configurations (Fig. 26). The majority of turnings will
require the gouge tool (A) Fig. 26. This round nosed
hollow chisel is used for roughing cuts, cove cuts and
other operations. The skew chisel (B) is a double-ground
flat chisel, with an angled end. This tool is used for
smoothing cylinders, for cutting shoulders, beads, vee-
grooves, etc. The parting tool (C) is a double-ground
chisel, used for cutting-off, or for making straight
incisions or sizing cuts to any required diameter. The
round nose scraper (D) is used for mostly hollowing
work, while the square-end scraper (E) ismainly used for
the outside of bowls.
Fig. 26
HOW TO TURN SPINDLES
Working with any material that is attached to the lathe
centers is called spindle turning (the principal type of
wood turning for chair and table legs, lamp stems, etc.).
The turning of spindles can be done with either a
scraping or cutting technique. The cutting technique, by
virtue of faster wood removal and a cleaner surface, is the
preferred method.
Fig. 27
CENTERING THE WORK
Wood stock for any spindle turning should be
approximately square, and the ends should be square
with the sides. Two common methods of determining
the center are shown in Figs. 27 and 28. In Fig. 27, a
distance a little more or a little less than one-half the
width of the stock is set off from each of the four sides.
The small square set off in the center can then be used
in marking the true center. The diagonal method, Fig. 28,
consists of drawing lines from corner to corner, with the
intersection marking the center of the work. Fig. 28
9
E C A B D A

After marking each end, mark the true center with a
punch awl or dividers (Fig. 29). If the stock is hardwood,
the centers should be drilled to a depth of about 1/8".
The spur or live center is then placed against one end of
the work and seated by striking with a mallet (Fig. 30). In
hardwood, make a starting seat for the spur center by
sawing on the diagonal lines, and drilling a small hole at
the intersection. After driving the center, hold the center
and the work together and fit both immediately into the
headstock spindle. If you are not using a ball bearing
center, the end of work at tailstock center should be
oiled. Place the lubricant on the wood either before or
after it is put on the lathe. Many turners use beeswax,
tallow, or a wax-and-oil mixture as a lubricant. A ball
bearing center is ideal because it eliminates lubricating.
If the work is to be removed from the lathe before com-
pletion, an index mark should be made as a guide for re-
centering (Fig. 31). A permanent indexer can be made by
grinding off one corner of one of the spurs.
MOUNTING THE WORK
Mount the work by moving the tailstock to a position
about 1" or 1-1/2" from the end of the workpiece, and
locking it in this position. Advance the tailstock center
by turning the feed handle until the center cup makes
contact with the work. Do not support the work on the
center pin alone. Always have the rim of the center cup
imbedded at least 1/8" into the work. Continue to
advance the center while slowly rotating the work by
hand. After it becomes difficult to turn the work, slack
off on the feed about one-quarter turn and lock the tail-
stock spindle.
Fig. 29
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
TOOL REST POSITION
Mount the tool rest in place about 1/8" away from
the work and 1/8" above the work centerline (Fig. 32.)
This position may be varied to suit the work and the
operator. Place a guide mark on the tool rest shank as
an aid to quick and accurate resetting.
CAUTION: CLAMP THE TOOL REST FIRMLY BEFORE
OPERATING THE LATHE. Fig. 32
10

ROUGHING A CYLINDER
The large gouge is used in the first turning operation by
smoothing the sharp corners of the work. Run thelathe at
low speed and hold the gouge in the manner shown in
Fig. 33 The cut starts about 2 inches from the tailstock
end and continues from this point to the end of the tail-
stock. Make the second pass beginning about 2" or 3" to
the left of the first cut. Advance again toward the tailstock,
and merge with the previous cut. Toward the end of the
live center, roll the gouge in the opposite direction
(Fig. 34) to carry the final cut off the live center end of the
work. The roughing cut should not be carried out with one
continuous movement, because this would tear long
slivers from the corners of the work. Neither should the
cut be started directly at the end of the stock for the
same reason. The cut can be safely carried from the
center of the stock toward and off either end once the first
roughing cuts have been made.
The position of the gouge involves two or three important
angles. (1) The tool may be advanced along the work
either from right to left or from left to right. Left to right
(from headstock to tailstock) is preferred since this action
throws chips clear of the operator. (2) The gouge is rolled
over slightly in the same direction it is advancing. (3) The
tool is held well up on the work, with the bevel or grind
tangent to the revolving surface (Fig. 35). This position will
give a clean shearing cut. When pushed straight into the
work (Fig. 35), the gouge has a scraping action, (normally
a poor practice in spindle turning). The roughing cut is
continued until the work approaches 1/8" of the required
diameter. Once a cylindrical form has been obtained, the
turning speed can be moved to the second or third speed
setting. NOTE: Continue to move the tool rest inward
toward the work piece to keep the safe distance between
the two.
POSITION OF HANDS
While turning, the hand that holds the tool handle
should be in a natural position. This hand provides the
leverage for the tool by either moving in toward the
chisel or moving out. The position of the tool rest hand is
more a matter of individual preference, rather than a “set”
or “proper” position. However, a palm-up grip (Fig. 36) is
generally considered best. In this position, the first finger
acts as a guide, sliding along the tool rest as the cut is
made. The alternate position is a palm-down grip (Fig.
37). In this position, the heel of the hand or the little finger
serves as a guide. The palm-down position is solid and
positive –excellent for roughing or heavy cutting. Most
beginners start with the palm-down grip, switching later
to the palm-up position for better manipulation of the
chisel.
Fig. 33
Fig. 34
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
11

SMOOTHING A CYLINDER
To smooth a cylinder, use a large skew chisel. This
requires practice, but experience with this tool is very
important. Place the cutting point near the center of the
chisel and high on the work (Fig. 38). Sometimes, in striv-
ing for a certain position in relation to the work, the
beginner will often overlook this all-important point.
Raising the handle will increase the depth of cut while
lowering the handle, of course, does the opposite. As
with the gouge, the skew can be advanced in either
direction. The center of the skew toward the heel does
the actual cutting. The back portion of the grind or bevel
supports the tool, while the handle-hand controls the
depth of cut by rocking the chisel on this pivot point.
Because of this, keep the skew bevel perfectly flat.
USING THE PARTING TOOL
The parting tool is perhaps the easiest turning chisel to
handle. Simply push this scraping tool into the work Fig.
39. A somewhat better cutting action is obtained if the
handle is held low. This tool is, in many cases, held with
one hand while the other hand holds the calipers in
the cutting groove. When parting tool cuts are deep, a
clearance cut should be made alongside the first cut
(Fig. 40) to prevent burning the tool point.
SQUARING AN END
The parting tool can be used to quickly square an end.
Since the parting tool is a rough cutter, the cut can be
smoothed by the use the skew. However, the whole
operation can be done with the skew. In using the skew,
make the first nicking cut with the toe of the skew
(Fig. 41). A deep cut here could burn the chisel, so a
clearance cut is made by inclining the skew away from
the first cut and pushing the tool into the work. This
procedure of side cut and clearance cut is continued as
often as needed. NOTE: While the skew can be pushed
into the wood in any direction, the cutting edge itself
must be inclined a little away from this plane.If the full
cutting edge of the skew bears against the cut surface,
the tool will have a tendency to run. See Fig. 42 for the
proper way to make the cut. Push the chisel straight into
the work, and incline the cutting edge away from the cut
surface. Use only the extreme end of the toe for this cut.
This important principle in skew handling will be used
Fig. 38
Fig. 39
Fig. 40
Fig. 41
repeatedly in making shoulders, beads and vee cuts. Fig. 42
12

Fig
49
CUTTING A SHOULDER
Use the parting tool first to reduce the wood to within
1/16" of the required shoulder and diameter (Fig. 43).
Clean the waste stock out with the gouge (Fig. 44), then
use the skew for the actual cutting of the shoulder (Fig.
45), which is a duplication of squaring an end. The skew
then makes the horizontal cut, but in a different manner
from plain cylinder work. If the shoulder is long, use the
ordinary skew position for the outer portion of the cut.
At the angle between the horizontal and vertical cuts,
the heel of the chisel moves into a position tangent
between the skew and the cylinder (Fig. 46). In this
position, raise the handle of the chisel slightly to allow it
to cut while the tool moves along the rest. Use a very
light cut to produce smooth work. The heel of the skew
can be used for making the entire cut, if desired, but the
cut, whether in this position or any other position, should
not be picked up directly at the end of the stock.
Horizontal cuts started directly from the end of the work
will have a tendency to bite into the wood, often ruining
the entire piece. Always run off the end and not into it.
Where a very short shoulder makes this impossible, use
the skew in a flat scraping position. If the cutting tech-
nique is used, engage only with the heel of skew in a
very light cut.
Fig. 43
Fig. 45
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
CUTTING SMALL BEADS
Beads can be scraped or cut. Using the spear chisel is
the easiest method of scraping, and works best on
beads separated by parting tool cuts (Fig. 46). Scraping
is slower than cutting and is not as clean, but it has the
advantage of protecting the work from long gashes.
Fig. 46
Cutting beads quickly and accurately with the small
skew is one of the most difficult lathe operations.
Various working methods can be used . The first cut is a
vertical incision at a point where the two curved surfaces
will eventually come together. Make this cut with either
heel or toe of skew. Fig. 47 shows the use of the toe.
Place the skew at right angles to the work. The chisel is
flat on its side at the start, and is evenly rotated through
the successive stages of the cut (Figs. 48, 49 and 50). At
the same time, the chisel is pulled slightly backward to
maintain the cutting point. The entire cut is made with
the heel of chisel. The opposite side of the bead is cut in
the same manner, one cut serving to produce the full
shape in each instance. This action produces beads that
are beautifully smooth and polished, and the technique
is well worth mastering.
Fig. 47
Fig. 48
Fig. 49 Fig. 50
13
.

VEE GROOVES
Cutting the vee groove demands much the same
technique as the bead, except the skew is hinged
straight into the work without rotation (Fig. 51). Only
one-half of the vee is made at a time, and one, two, or
more cuts may be needed on each side to obtain the
desired shape. As in all cutting with the skew, the bevel
next to the cut must be used as a fulcrum. Be careful not
to allow the full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a
run. Vee grooves can also be made with the toe of the
skew, in the same manner as squaring an end.
LONG CUTS
Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered
surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in
making the finishing cut is shown in Figs. 52. The gouge
is turned on the tool rest so that it will be inclined in the
direction that it will move. The grind is tangent to the
work, and the center point of the cutting edge is the
contact point with the wood. As the cut progresses
toward and around the end of the curve, the handle is
gradually raised and swiveled to the right (Fig. 53) in
order to maintain the tangency between the grind and
the surface being cut .
Figs. 54 and 55 show the cutting of a long taper with a
skew. The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder
only at the start of the cut. The starting cut should be
made with the heel (Fig. 54) to prevent the tool from
digging into the work. As the tool moves down the work,
the chisel can be pulled back to allow the center point of
the cutting edge to cut. However, the full taper can be
made with the heel. Be careful not to cut too deeply at
the center of the taper. The direction of cutting is always
downhill.
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53 Fig. 54
COVE CUTS
Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave
cut is the most difficult to master. This cut is made with
the gouge, where the size of the tool depends on the
size of the cut. Push the gouge directly into the work to
remove the surplus stock (Fig.56).
Fig. 55
Fig. 56
14

The gouge is placed on edge on the tool rest so that the
grind of the chisel forms an approximate right angle
with the work (Figs. 57). The chisel contacts the work at
the center of the cutting edge. Hold the tool so that the
centerline of the gouge is pointing directly toward the
center of the revolving stock. This starting position is
important to prevent the gouge from running along the
surface of the work.
From the starting position, push the gouge into the
revolving stock, and roll the tool on the rest. A triple
action takes place here. (1) The chisel will roll to follow
the shape of the cut, (2) the handle will drop slightly
so that the portion already cut will force the lip of
the chisel sideways and, (3) the chisel will be pushed
forward so that at the end of the cut, Fig. 58, it will be
well up on the work and tangent with the cut surface.
Make only one-half of the cut at a time, then reverse the
chisel to cut the other half. The occasional turner should
make cove cuts with a scraping technique, using either
the small gouge or round nose chisel.
SQUARE SECTIONS
When the turning has a square section, joint the stock
before turning. Good centering is essential since any
error will show at the shoulder where the round meets
the square. Turning of the shoulder from square to
round can be done in various ways. If the parting tool
is sharp, the nicking cut with skew (Fig. 59) can be
omitted. The successive cuts are shown in Figs. 60 and
61. The final trimming operation (Fig. 62) can be done
with either the skew, spear chisel, or gouge, and is a
scraping operation. While the shoulder can be cut with
the same technique used for cutting a bead, the simpler
scraping method pictured does clean work and is easier
to do.
Fig. 57
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
Fig. 58
Fig. 61 Fig. 62
15

FACEPLATE TURNING
Mount turnings that cannot be worked between centers on a faceplate. The greater part of this
type of turning is done with the faceplate mounting, although there are a number of jobs which
require special chucks. All cutting in faceplate work is done by scraping. Any attempt to use a
cutting technique on the edge grain of large work will result in a hogging, gouging cut which may
jerk the chisel out of the hands of the operator. Use a band saw on all work to roughly cut the turn-
ing area slightly oversized to eliminate heavy roughing cuts in turning.
MOUNTING WORK
TO FACEPLATE
Fig. 63 shows direct mounting to the 3" faceplate along
with attaching to the backing block. Because of the ease
of setting up, use this mounting whenever the work per-
mits. Hold larger pieces in the same way by using the 6"
faceplate. When normal screw-fastenings interfere,
mount the work on a backing block (Fig. 63). When
screws are not permissible at all, glue the work to the
backing block by fitting a sheet of paper at the joint to
allow later separation without damaging the wood.
Some work can be screwed or nailed from the face side
into backing block. Mount work less than 3" in diameter
on the single screw center (Fig. 64).
Fig. 63
Fig. 64
INBOARD/OUTBOARD TURNING
For workpieces that require additional space for turning,
or for the turning of bowls, etc., outboard turning is the
answer. To make outboard turnings:
1. Remove the tool rest base and the tailstock from
the lathe bed.
2. The headstock can turn to any angle. Move the
handle (A) Fig.65 and turn the headstock to the angle
best suited for the work. Lock the headstock in place by
moving the handle back to the left.
5. If the faceplate is already on the headstock, remove
it by inserting the knockout bar (A) Fig. 66 in the side hole
of the spindle (B) Fig. 66 to hold the spindle in place. Use
the supplied wrench (C) Fig. 66 to loosen the faceplate.
Remove the faceplate (D) by turning it counterclockwise
with your hand.
Fig. 65
Fig. 66
16
C
D
B
A
A

6. The tool rest with the auxiliary extension can be
placed in several different angles and positions. Select
the one best suited for your work. Fig. 67 shows the
position normally used for bowls and other outboard
turnings. To move the tool rest on the bed, loosen the
handle (A) Fig. 67 and slide the tool rest to the desired
position, and then tighten the handle. To change the
angle of the tool rest, loosen the handle (B) Fig. 67,
move the auxiliary extension to the desired position,
then retighten. Toraise the height of the tool rest, loosen
the handle (C), raise the tool rest to the desired height,
then retighten.
7. Fig. 68 illustrates a typical inboard faceplate turning
set-up. Inboard faceplate turning is used mostly when
the workpiece (A) will rotate freely over the lathe bed.
The workpiece (A) is mounted to a faceplate and the
faceplate is threaded onto the spindle. Note that the
standard equipment tool rest (B) can be adjusted to turn
the outside diameter of the workpiece. Fig. 69 illustrates
the rough cutting of the inside of a bowl.
8. Outboard turning is illustrated in Fig. 70. Note that
the headstock (A) is turned 45 degrees and the tool rest
auxiliary extension (B) is attached. Outboard turning
generally is used for larger workpieces, but smaller work
can be accomplished using this technique.
Fig. 67
Fig. 68
Fig. 69 Fig. 70
17
B
A
C
B
A

MAINTENANCE
REPLACING DRIVE BELT
1. Remove the four screws (A) Fig. 71 (three of which
are shown) to take the back off of the headstock.
Fig. 71
2. Use a #5 Allen wrench to remove the three screws
(A) Fig. 72. Slide the spindle handle out. Pull the spindle
lock to the out position (see Fig. 24A).
Fig. 72
3. Remove the belt (A) Fig. 73 from the pulley (B).
NOTE: When pulling the belt out or replacing the belt,
pull the spindle lock handle (B) Fig. 72 out to its fullest
position to give more room (C) Fig. 73 for belt removal or
replacement.
Replace new belt by using these instructions in reverse
order.
Fig. 73
198
A
A
A
A
B
A
C
B

14” WOOD LATHE
19

REPLACEMENT PARTS
Ref. Ref.
No.
Part No.
Description
No.
Part No.
Description
1
1342455
PAN HD SCREW
75
901802
FRONT SWITCH BOX
2
1320101
EXT TOOTH WASHER
76
1246016
HEX HD SCREW
3
901741
MOTOR COVER
77
901800
SWITCH GUARD
4
901734
EXT RETAINING RING
78
901801
SWITCH
5
1243321
HEX SOC SET SCREW
79
901811
POWER CORD
6
909945
PULLEY SET
80
901781
BOLT
8
901737
SPRING
81
901785
BALL
9
901738
SPRING BUSHING
82
901786
SPRING
10
901739
KEY
83
901783
LOCK PLATE
11
901740
MOTOR
84
901784
M16 FLAT WASHER
11A
903260
MOTOR PLATE
85
1313165
LOCK NUT
12
1243360
LOCK WASHER
86
1330261
SPRING PIN
13
1243561
HEX SOC HD SCREW
95
1246045
CHEESE HD SCREW
14
901782
EXT RETAINING RING
96
901790
STOP PLATE
15
909946
PULLEY SET
97
901780
BED
16
1246161
HEX SOC SET SCREW
*
903735
TOOL REST ASSEMBLY, INCL.: REF. 100 THRU 116
17
901731
V-BELT
100
901778
BOLT EYE
18
901722
BUSHING
101
901779
LOCK PLATE
20
901766
EXT RETAINING RING
102
1313165
LOCK NUT
21
901770
EXT RETAINING RING
103
901761
RETAINING RING
22
901729
BEARING
104
901763
TOOL REST BASE
23
1246081
PIN
105
901764
ECCENTRIC SHAFT
24
901728
YOKE
106
901759
SLEEVE
25
901727
SPLINE
107
n
913044
HANDLE ASSY, T2, INCL.: REF. 112 THRU 116
26
901765
FOLLOWER
903739
HANDLE ASSY, T1, INCL.: REF. 112 THRU 116
27
1340945
CENTER POINT
108
901758
TOOL REST BRACKET
28
1340946
DRIVE CENTER, INCL.: REF. 27
110
901756
TOOL REST
29
901793
FACE PLATE
112
1343642
M6 X 1.0 NUT
30
901719
SPINDLE
113
1246140
M6.4 WASHER
31
901720
KEY
114
901757
SPRING
32
901721
BEARING
115
n
909935
HANDLE, T2
33
901724
WAVE WASHER
901760
HANDLE, T1
34
901725
RETAINING RING
116
901726
STUD
35
901733
RETAINING RING
120
901771
HANDLE
36
901723
RUBBER PAD
121
n
912044
HANDLE, T2
37
901742
HEADSTOCK
901772
HANDLE, T1
38
901743
GEAR SHAFT
122
1342125
HEX SOC HD SCREW, T1
39
901744
RETAINING RING
123
1246053
HEX SOC HD SCREW
40
901745
SPEED INDICATOR PLATE
124
1344933
HEX SOC HD SCREW
41
1344950
FLAT HD SCREW
125
n
912043
PLATE, T2
42
1246110
PIN
903750
PLATE, T1
43
901752
VARIABLE SPEED HANDLE
126
n
912041
TAIL STOCK, T2
44
901751
LOCK PLATE
901773
TAIL STOCK, T1
45
901750
SPRING
127
n
913043
HANDLE ASSY, T2, INCL.: REF. 112,113,114,115, & 128
46
901749
BUTTON
903738
HANDLE ASSY, T1, INCL.: REF. 112,113,114,115, & 128
47
901747
PIN
128
901762
STUD
48
1310159
PAN HD SCREW
129
901768
EXT RETAINING RING 19
49
901748
TUBE
130
1243303
HEX SOC SET SCREW
50
901746
RUBBER SLEEVE COVER
131
901767
ECCENTRIC SHAFT
51
901798
HAND WHEEL
132
n
912045
SPINDLE SCREW, T2
52
901787
M6X108 SCREW HEX SOC HD
901774
SPINDLE SCREW, T1
53
903751
INDEXING ASSEMBLY
133
n
912042
QUILL, T2
58
901753
LOCK PLATE
901775
QUILL, T1
59
901754
LOCK SHAFT
134
1342071
LIVE CENTER, INCL.: REF. 27
60
901755
KNOB
135
901776
SPECIAL BOLT
62
1343533
LOCK WASHER
136
903262
QUILL SCALE
63
901809
WIRE CLIP
149
900924
WARNING LABEL ENG & SPAN
64
901808
WIRE SLEEVE
151
903254
VS LABEL
65
1243398
HEX NUT
153
903256
NAME PLATE
66
1310216
EXT TOOTH WASHER
157A
1310016
DRIVE SCREW
67
901799
SWITCH SUPPORT BRACKET
162
901791
KNOCKOUT BAR
68
1347781
HEX HD SCREW
163
901792
SPINDLE WRENCH
*
903737
SWITCH ASSEMBLY, INCL.: REF. 69 THRU 79
165
900924
WARNING LABEL
69
901769
BACK SWITCH BOX
166
n
1347582
KEY, T2
70
1342455
PAN HD SCREW
167
n
1246132
M08 X 1.25 X 16MM HEX SOC SET SCREW, T2
71
901804
RETAINING RING
168
n
1313165
M16 X 2.0 LOCK NUT, T2
72
901806
M4.2 X 16MM SCREW
73
901805
M4.2 X 12MM SCREW
* NOT SHOWN ASSEMBLED
74
901803
WIRING PLATE
20