Heatwagon HVF210HD Manual

HVF110, 210, 310, 410HD
C US
Construction
Heaters
Installation and Maintenance Manual
Please retain this manual for future reference.
342 N. Co. Rd. 400 East
Va paraiso, IN 46383
219-464-8818 • Fax [phone]
www.heatwagon.com
Revision 12-11
For your safety: Do not use this heater in
a space where gaso ine or other iquids
having f ammab e vapors are stored.

e cannot anticipate every use which may be made for our heaters. CHECK ITH YOUR
LOCAL FIRE SAFETY AUTHORITY IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT LOCAL REGULA-
TIONS.
Other standards govern the use of fuel gases and heat producing products in specific applica-
tions. Your local authority can advise you about these.
FOR YOUR SAFETY
DO NOT USE THIS HEATER IN A SPACE WHERE GASOLINE OR OTHER
LIQUIDS HAVING FLAMMABLE VAPORS ARE STORED OR USED.
TECHNICIAN.
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING
CONSTRUCTION HEATER GENERAL HAZARD WARNING

Table of Con en s:
Safety and Caution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Operating Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Control Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
roubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-13
Chimney/Flue Set-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
HVF110 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15-21
HVF210 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-29
HVF310 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23-24, 30-33
HVF410HD Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34-39
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Installation and Maintenance Manual
Model HVF110, 210, 310, 410HD
Construction Heater
342 N. Co. Rd. 400 East • Val araiso, IN 46383
219-464-8818 • 888-432-8924 • Fax [phone]
www.heatwagon.com
WARRANTY
All new Heat Wagon and Sure Flame heaters and fans are guaranteed against defective materials and work-
manship for one (1) year from invoice date.
Warranty repairs may be made only by an authorized, trained and certified Heat Wagon dealer. Warranty
repairs by other entities will not be considered. Warranty claims must include model number and serial
number.
LIMITATIONS
Warrant claims for service parts (wear parts) such as spark plugs, igniters, flame rods will not be allowed.
Diagnostic parts such as voltage meters and pressure gauges are not warrantable.
Evidence of improper fuel usage, fuel pressures outside of manufacturer’s specification, poor fuel quality,
and improper electric power, misapplication or evidence of abuse may be cause for rejection of warranty
claims.
ravel time, mileage and shipping charges will not be allowed. Minor adjustments of heaters are dealers’
responsibility. Defective parts must be tagged and held for possible return to the factory for 60 days from
date of repair. he factory will provide a return goods authorization, (RGA) for defective parts to be
returned.
No warranty will be allowed for parts not purchased from Heat Wagon.

4
412/272
3250
354/231
2.89/1.86
1,820
20
2.0-80º W
240/120
0.6
1.5
5.90
0.05
57
83x33x48
456
HVF110 HVF210 HVF310 HVF410HD
Runs on #1 & #2 diesel, kerosene, JP-8 or Jet A
1020
94.8
5.73
4.05
0.55-80º W
0.5
0.118
5.9
0.05
17.2
49.3x20x33.3
142
89.5
183.5
1.48
10.47
7.65
A=3.5, .196
5.9
0.05
27.7
56.5x21.9x38
220
88.0
264.0
2.17
15.37
11.40
174
5.9
0.05
35.7
56.5x21.9x38
297

5

6
Reset Button Room Thermostat Plug
Control Lamp Power Cord
ain Switch
Regulation of Electrodes
HVF110
HVF210
HVF310
HVF410HD
Note: 1/16” = 1.6 mm

7
For additional details see advanced troubleshooting (page 8).
pg. 6

ADVANCED TROUBLESHOOTING
Motor and transformer do not operate.
Causes:
1. Incorrect or low voltage supplied to the heater.
2. Fuse in heater is blown.
3. Thermostat defective, or not turned up to call for heat.
4. Control board is defective.
5. Reset button has not been reset.
Solutions:
1. Incorrect or low voltage supplied to the heater. Most indirect oil heaters require a minimum of 108 volts to operate properly. A multi-meter set to
measure volts can be used to check the amount of voltage at the end of the extension cord(s). If the measured voltage is too low, the length of the
extension cord (s) must be shortened or a thicker gauge extension cord must be used.
2. Fuse in heater is blown. Locate and remove the in-line fuse of the heater. Set a multi-meter to measure ohms of resistance. lace a multi-meter
probe on each end of the fuse. The multi-meter should read zero ohms (continuity) or the fuse is blown. If a new fuse blows immediately, check for
possible causes. Check for incorrect voltage to the heater. Make sure the total amperage draw of all equipment running on the circuit is not too
great. If the supplied voltage and total amperage draw are correct, check the wiring in the heater for correctness and possible shorts.
3. Thermostat is defective or not turned up to call for heat. Turn the thermostat up to the highest possible setting and try to start the heater. Next
set a multi-meter to measure voltage coming out of the thermostat. If approximately 120 volts is not measured, the thermostat is defective.
4. Control board is defective. Using a multi-meter set for volts, check the hot and neutral wires which bring voltage into the control board. If proper
voltage is reaching the board then the control board is defective.
5. Reset button has not been reset. ush the reset button and try to start the heater.
Motor does not start, ut ignition spark is present
Causes:
1. Control board is defective.
2. Motor is defective.
3. Motor start capacitor is defective.
4. Fuel pump seized
Solutions:
1. Control board is defective.Locate the terminals of the control board that connect to the motor wires. Use a multi-meter set to read voltage and
check for approximately 120 volts to the motor when the heater is turned on. If no voltage is observed the control board is defective.
2. Motor is defective. If the control board and the motor start capacitor check ok and the fuel pump is not seized, the motor is defective.
3. Motor start capacitor is defective. The capacitor may be tested using a multi-meter set to the lowest possible ohm range. First “short” the capaci-
tor by momentarily placing a screwdriver across the two capacitor terminals. Then place the multi-meter probes on the two capacitor terminals. The
multi-meter should read close to zero ohms (continuity) first, then slowly move to infinity on the multi-meter. If not then the capacitor is defective.
4. Fuel pump seized. With the heater unplugged, stand behind the heater and attempt to turn the fan blade clockwise by hand. If the fan blade is
difficult to turn, undo the connection between the motor shaft and the pump shaft. Attempt turning the fan blade again. If the motor now turns freely,
the pump has seized up. If the fan blade is still difficult to turn, the motor is defective.
8

Motor runs, spark is present, ut there is no fuel spray
Causes:
1. Spray nozzle clogged.
2. Fuel pump is defective/or broken pump coupling
3. Air entering the fuel pump thru the inlet line.
4. Solenoid valve is defective.
5. Control board is defective.
6. Fuel filter is dirty.
7. Safety thermostat defective or tripped or improper ducting.
8. Air proving switch defective.
Solutions:
1. Spray nozzle clogged. Remove and inspect the spray nozzle. Clean or replace as needed. Do not clean the nozzle orifice with anything metal
as this may enlarge the orifice.
2. Fuel pump is defective. The output pressure of the fuel pump can be checked by placing a high pressure fuel gauge into the gauge port of the
fuel pump. Use a gauge with enough capacity to measure the high pressure your particular heater can produce. Use the adjustment on the pump
to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specification. If you do not have a fuel gauge, you may slightly loosen the pump’s output line con-
nection and place a rag there. Run the heater briefly and see if fuel reaches the rag. If no fuel is pumped, check the connection between the motor
and the fuel pump to make sure the motor can turn the pump. Also check the external and internal fuel filters for blockage, and clean or replace if
necessary. The fuel pumps internal filter is usually located where the fuel inlet line enters the pump. Check to make sure motor is rotating pump.
3. Air entering the fuel pump thru the fuel inlet line. If air enters the pump it will lose its prime and will not maintain adequate pump pressure. First
make sure all fittings, including the fuel filter on the inlet line are tight. If you still suspect air is entering the pump, start eliminating portions of the
inlet line until the air leak is found. Start this process at the fuel tank end of the inlet line. It may be necessary to draw fuel from a small container
rather than the fuel tank.
4. Solenoid valve is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure volts. Check for approximately 120 volts at the ends of the two wires that carry
voltage to the solenoid valve. If proper voltage is read, try cleaning the valve if it is dirty. If the valve will not open fully to allow fuel spray, the sole-
noid valve is defective. If proper voltage is not read, check for voltage on the control board terminals that the solenoid valve wires connect to. If
proper voltage is read, the solenoid valve wires are defective. If voltage is not read on the board terminals, the control board is defective.
5. Control board is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check for proper voltage on the two board terminals that the solenoid
valve wires connect to. If proper voltage is read, the control board is ok. If proper voltage is not read, the control board is defective.
6. Fuel filter dirty. Check the external and internal fuel filters and clean or replace as necessary. Most fuel pumps contain an internal fuel filter
located where the inlet line enters the fuel pump.
7. Safety thermostat defective or tripped. Also called overheat switch. Some indirect oil heaters have a safety thermostat wired between the con-
trol board and the solenoid valve. If the heater becomes too hot this normally closed switch will open and interrupt power to the solenoid valve.
Use a multi-meter set to measure ohms. lace the multi-meter probes on the two male terminals of the safety thermostat. If the multi-meter shows
infinity (no continuity) the safety thermostat is defective. If the switch opens up before the heater becomes hot, the safety thermostat is defective.
8. Air proving switch is defective. Try to start the heater without ducting. Indirect oil heaters have an air proving switch wired between the control
board and the solenoid valve. The air proving switch is normally open and requires air from the turning fan blade to close the switch and send
power to the solenoid valve. Set a multi-meter to measure voltage. With the fan blade turning, check for voltage coming out of the air proving
switch to the solenoid valve. If no voltage is read, next check for voltage at the control board terminals out to the air proving switch. If voltage at the
control board is read, the air proving switch is defective. If no voltage is read at the board, the control board is defective.
9

Motor runs, fuel sprays, ut no spark is o served
Causes:
1. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
2. Transformer defective.
3. Control board defective.
Solutions:
1. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation.
Check the electrodes with the manufacturer’s specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed.
2. Transformer defective. Transformers require a ground connection to function properly. Check the transformer’s ground wire or mounting tabs for
a good ground connection. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check the voltage in to the transformer from the control board for approxi-
mately 120 volts. Do not attempt to measure the transformer’s output voltage with an ordinary multi-meter. The transformer may also be bench
tested for proper output arc.
3. Control board defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Take a voltage reading on the control board terminals that send input power
to the transformer. If proper voltage is not present, the control board is defective.
Motor runs, fuel sprays, spark is present, ut heater will not ignite
Causes:
1. ump pressure incorrect.
2. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
3. Nozzle dirty or worn.
4. Air damper setting is incorrect.
5. Transformer output is weak.
6. Ducting is improper.
7. Venting is improper.
8. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. ump pressure incorrect. Using a high pressure fuel gauge, check the output pressure of the fuel pump. If necessary, use the pump’s adjust-
ment to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications.
2. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation.
Check the electrodes with the manufacturers specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed.
3. Nozzle dirty or worn. Clean the nozzle using compressed air. Never use anything metal to clean the nozzle as this may enlarge the orifice. With
enough use, fuel traveling under high pressure thru the nozzle orifice can enlarge the orifice. This is especially true when diesel fuel is used. Clean
or replace the nozzle as needed.
4. Air damper setting is incorrect. Use the manufacturers specifications for the air damper setting and adjust as needed.
5. Transformer output is weak. Remove the transformer and perform a bench test.
6. Ducting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning maximum duct length and diameter.
7. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for venting.
8. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water bubbles or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill tank as
needed.
10

Heater ignites, runs less than one minute and shuts down
Causes:
1. hotocell is dirty, misaligned or defective.
2. Control board is defective.
3. Fuel pump defective.
4. Fuel filter dirty.
Solutions:
1. hotocell is dirty, misaligned or defective. Check that the photocell is aimed correctly and is free of dirt. If necessary, clean the photocell “eye”
with a soft, dry cloth. Unfortunately no test exists for the photocell. Attempting to “jumper out” the photocell will not test the function. You must
either replace the photocell or borrow a known functioning photocell from an identical heater.
2. Control board is defective. If the heater’s spray and spark are correct, the photocell and control board must work together to recognize the com-
bustion flame has become established. Therefore if a new photocell does not correct this symptom, the control board is defective.
3. Fuel pump is defective. If the fuel pump will not achieve or maintain proper output pressure, the fuel pump is defective. Check the pump’s output
pressure with a gauge.
4. Fuel filter dirty. Inspect the internal and external fuel filters and clean or replace as needed.
Heater ignites, runs several minutes, then shuts down.
Causes:
1. Fuel pump is defective.
2. Solenoid valve is defective.
3. Overheat thermostat is defective.
4. Ducting is improper.
5. Venting is improper.
6. Nozzle is dirty.
7. Fuel filter is dirty.
8. Control board is defective.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. Fuel pump is defective. If the fuel pump will not achieve or maintain proper output pressure, the pump is defective. Check the fuel pump output
pressure with a gauge.
2. Solenoid valve is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check for proper voltage at the solenoid valve. If proper voltage is read
and the solenoid valve will not stay open and allow fuel spray, the solenoid valve is defective.
3. Overheat thermostat is defective. Also called a safety thermostat or limit switch. Some heaters are equipped with this. Set a multi-meter to mea-
sure ohms of resistance. erform this test immediately after the heater shuts down and the overheat thermostat is still hot. lace the multi-meter
probes on the two male terminals of the safety thermostat. If the multi-meter reads infinity (no continuity) the safety thermostat is defective.
Remember that if the heater is over firing due to high pump pressure, worn nozzle, or is improperly ducted or vented, the safety thermostat will
heat enough to shut the heater off.
4. Ducting is improper. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations
regarding maximum duct length and diameter. Failure to do so can result in heat building up in the heater until the safety thermostat contacts open
and shut the heater off.
11

5. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning proper venting. Failure to do so can result in heat building up in the
heater until the safety thermostat contacts open and shut the heater off.
6. Nozzle is dirty. If dirt reaches the nozzle, the spray can be adversely affected and cause a shut down. If possible observe the spray pattern and
clean the nozzle as needed.
7. Fuel filter dirty. Check the internal and external fuel filters. Clean or replace as needed.
8. Control board is defective. For the heater to function, the control board must send proper voltage to three components: motor, transformer and
solenoid valve. Using a multi-meter set to measure voltage, check the appropriate control board terminals for proper voltage out to these three
components. If proper voltage to any of these three components is not observed, the control board is defective.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water bubbles or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill as needed.
Heater ignites, ut com ustion is poor or uneven
Causes:
1. Fuel pump pressure is incorrect.
2. Nozzle dirty or worn.
3. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
4. Fuel filter is dirty.
5. Air damper setting incorrect.
6. Whirl disk dirty or mis-aligned.
7. Ducting is improper.
8. Venting is improper.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. Fuel pump pressure is incorrect. The output pressure of the fuel pump can be checked by placing a high pressure fuel gauge into the gauge port
of the fuel pump. Use a gauge with enough capacity to measure the high pressure your particular heater can produce. Use the adjustment on the
pump to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications.
2. Nozzle dirty or worn. Clean the nozzle using compressed air. Never use anything metal to clean the nozzle as this may enlarge the orifice. With
enough use, fuel traveling under high pressure thru the nozzle orifice can enlarge the orifice. This is especially true when diesel fuel is used. Clean
or replace the nozzle as needed.
3. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation.
Check the electrodes with the manufacturer’s specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed (page 5/17).
4. Fuel filter is dirty. Inspect the internal and external fuel filters and clean or replace as needed.
5. Air damper setting incorrect. Use the manufacturer’s specifications for the air damper setting and adjust as needed. (see Diagram B, page 17)
6. Whirl disk dirty or mis-aligned. Inspect the whirl disk and clean if necessary. If the disk is warped or mis-aligned, replace or adjust as needed.
7. Ducting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning maximum duct length and diameter.
8. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for venting.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill tank as needed.
12

Heater ignites ut flame is excessive
Causes:
1. Fuel pump pressure is too high.
2. Nozzle is worn.
3. Incorrect fuel.
Solutions:
1. Fuel pump pressure is too high. Attach a high pressure fuel gauge to the fuel pump and check the pump pressure. Adjust the pressure to the
manufacturer’s specifications with the adjustment on the fuel pump.
2. Nozzle is worn. With enough use, the impurities in the fuel traveling under high pressure thru the nozzle orifice can enlarge the orifice. This is
especially true when diesel fuel is used. A worn nozzle can cause the heater to run “rich” and possibly over fire the heater enough to activate the
safety thermostat and cause a shutdown. Replace after 400 hours of operation.
3. Incorrect fuel. Only use the manufacturer’s recommended fuels. Never use gasoline, paint thinner, solvents, or other flammable liquids. If you
suspect the fuel is incorrect, drain, flush and re-fill the tank with proper fuel.
13
FUEL PUMP ADJUSTMENT
1.10
1.50
80º
80º
80º
12 / 174
2 Stage
P1: 10/145
P2: 20 / 290
1 Stage
12 / 174

14

HVF110 Elec rical Schema ic
For SN 21100801 and Beyond
15

HVF110 Breakdown
Prior to SN 21100801
16

HVF110 Par s Lis
Prior to SN 21100801
17

HVF110 Breakdown
SN 21100801 to SN 21101000
18

HVF110 Par s Lis
SN 21100801 to SN 21101000
19
3
RV1 (110)
RV3 (210,310)
Term #2 on Brahma (410)
Wiring Schematic For
Digital Thermostat
RV3 (110)
RV1 (210,310)
RV (410)
L
(Hot)
G
N
ST
2 1
Photoresistence protection
Box fixing bracket
Switch support
100 Pa switch

20
HVF110 Breakdown
For SN 21101001 and Beyond