Hobie catsy User manual

• 1
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
HOBIE CAT EUROPE
ZI Toulon Est, BP 250
83078 Toulon cedex 9, France
Tel : [phone] - Fax : [phone]
Email : hobie[email protected] - http://www.hobie-cat.net
HOBIE CATSY

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CAUTION DANGER
ALUMINIUM MAST
KEEP AWAY FROM
ELECTRICAL WIRES
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENT
List of parts................................................. 2
Wires and ropes.......................................... 3
Part bag, trampoline.................................... 4
Beaming the hulls....................................... 5
Trampoline fitting.....................................6-7
Rudder assembly........................................ 8
Mast
Preparation of the mast...................... 9
Bridle wires & stay adjuster.............. 10
Raising the mast.........................11-12
Jib sail ...................................................... 13
Main sail ................................................... 14
Mainsheet system & Cunningham............. 15
Hawaïan righting system.......................... 16
Safety & advice......................................... 17
LIST OF PARTS
⇒ Hulls (2)
⇒ Front crossbar
⇒ Rear crossbar
⇒ Mast
⇒ Trampoline
⇒ Rudder assembly (2)
⇒ Tiller crossbar
⇒ Mainsail
⇒ Jibsail
⇒ Batten set (7)
⇒ Part bag
⇒ Rope bag
⇒ Wire bag
Tools required
2 #13 spanners
1 pair of pliers
Two persons are recommended to
assemble the boat

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Wires
1. Shrouds with adjuster covers
2. Brides
3. Forestay, jib halyard assembly
4. Hawaïan righting kit (shock cord, line and
pulley)
3
2
1
Ropes
1. Righting line
2. Mainsheet
3. Jibsheet
4. Main halyard
5. Jib Halyard
6. Trampoline lacing line
4
Wires and ropes
1
2
3
4 5
6

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Part bag :
1. Mainsheet top block with hook
2. Mainsheet ratchet block
3. Tiller crossbar screws.
4. Stay adjusters, clevis pins and split rings (2)
5. Jib stay adjuster
6. Shackle
Other parts not shown above :
⇒ Drain plugs (on the hulls)
⇒ Screws for bar fixing (on the bars)
Part bag & Trampoline
4
6
3
4
2
1
5

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Position the hulls parallel on the ground
approximately 2 meters apart. Now prepare the
front cross bar by removing the nuts and
washers from the underside of the beam on all
Beaming the hulls
1
Take the front cross bar, making
sure that the track for the trampoline
is facing rearward and seat the
beam on the hull moulding. The
bolts will line up through the holes
on the hull. Push the beam down so
3
it sits flush in the beam well.
Pass your arm into the hull through the
inspection port directly behind the side
you are working. By hand place the
washer first then turn a nut onto the bolts
inside the hull. Tighten the nuts with a
13mm spanner. Once tight turn on the
locking nuts and again tighten with a
13mm spanner.
Now take the other hull and repeat the process to attach the front cross bar. Once the front cross bar is attached
4
5
the bolts.
Lift a hull into an upright position. One person
straddles the hull to hold it in position. The
second person can then apply the silicone
sealant to the beam wells for the front cross bar.
Apply the sealant in a circle around the bolt holes
on the hull and also as to cover the rivet heads.
2

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Repeat this process for the rear of the trampoline so
that all four corners are tensioned.
You will notice a loop of black cord exiting the
beams near the four corners of the platform.
These loops are for attaching the four corners
of the trampoline. Simultaneously tension the
front corners of the trampoline as to keep the
trampoline in the center of the beam.
Line up the grommet in the center front edge of the
trampoline with the dolphin striker post. Be sure to back feed
the left front corner of the trampoline into the track also.
Unfold the trampoline and locate the front side. The front of
the trampoline is the side with the pocket mounted closest.
Now slide the front edge of the trampoline bolt rope into the
front cross beam track via the cut out on the left side of the
beam.
Trampoline fitting
1
Feed the trampoline into the track and
position it in the center of the beam.
2
3
4
5

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Also the rear side of the trampoline must be laced
and tensioned. To do this, firstly insert the fibreglass
rod into trampoline from the side. Now lace the
black lacing as per the photograph through the
trampoline and back up to the buttons on the rear
cross beam. Tension so that the trampoline is tight.
Tie off the lacing securely. You can cut off or tie off
the excess as you desire.
Trampoline fitting
6
7

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Take the tiller cross bar and locate the sticker that
indicates the right end. The tiller cross bar attaches to
each tiller arm using the bolts that are loosely fitted to
the tiller bars. Tighten with a 10mm spanner and
screwdriver the bolts so that the tiller is firm yet free to
move.
Insert the retainer clip to the lower
pintle to prevent the rudders from
falling off!
Line up the rudder pintles (metal pegs that are
attached to the hulls) with the holes in the rudder
castings. Push the left and right castings down onto
the pintles of the left and right hull.
Identify the right rudder and left rudder. To do this look
for the stickers on the rudder arms.
Red = left, green = right
Rudder Assembly
1
2
3
4

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Now also find the jib halyard rope. Pass the rope through the eye near the
top of the forestay. The eye is at the end of a short strop that is part of the
forestay wire. Take both ends of the jib halyard and tie them both at the
Remove all the wires from the bag and unroll them.
Ensure that all the twists are removed. Locate the
6mm bow shackle and attach the 3 wires to the
mast, using the shackle as shown. Tighten the
shackle securely. See photo for positioning of the
wires.
Now secure both the wire and the rope sections of the
halyard at the bottom of the mast.
Having removed the mast from the
plastic un-roll the main halyard wire that
is taped near the top of the mast. Also
find in the rope bag the main halyard
rope. Tie using a bowline knot the main
halyard rope to the wire. Tie the knot to
the end of the wire that has the stainless
steel thimble.
Mast preparation
1
2
3
3
6 mm bow shackle
Forestay
Shrouds
Jib halyard

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The stay adjuster should have another shackle and
a clevis pin and ring attached to it. The second
shackle is to mount the jib and the clevis pin and
ring to attach the forestay, which holds the mast up.
Bridle wires and stay adjuster
Attach the bridle wires at the bow of each hull. Un-
roll the wire and find in the parts bag a 6mm
shackle and a stay adjuster. Using the shackle, join
the wires, together with the stay adjuster as per the
photograph.
1
2

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Also attach the side stays to the stay adjusters using a
clevis pin and ring. For beginning it is recommended
to attach the side stays in the fourth hole from the top
of the stay adjuster on both sides.
Find in the parts bag, 2 more stay adjusters. Using the clevis pins and ring supplied attach the stay adjusters it
the shroud anchor plates on the outside of each hull, near the center of the boat.
Place the mast on the boat so that the base is
positioned near the front cross beam. Find the two
side stays (the wires that have the plastic covering
on them). Place the side stays one on each side of
the boat.
Raising the Mast
1
CAUTION DANGER : ALUMINIUM MAST
STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL WIRES
CONTACT WITH ELECTRICAL WIRES
2
3

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Once the mast is standing and the
wires all attached remove the nut and
bolt from the mast base. This is only
necessary for raising and lowering
the mast.
With one person continuing to hold the mast head the other person steps onto the trampoline and takes the
mast. This person stands the mast up and waits for the other person to attach the forestay to the bridle wire
stay adjuster. Push on the mast firmly while the bridle and forestay are joined so that the rigging is securely
tensioned.
One person now takes the head of the mast
while the other person positions the base on
the mast step ball, which is in the center of
the front cross beam. Remove the nut and
bolt from the mast base for the mast to sit
on the ball. Once fitted replace the bolt and
nut. This will ensure the mast does not ‘pop
off’ of the mast step ball.
Raising the Mast
4
5
6
Also push the side stay adjuster cover down over the
stay adjusters. This will protect yourself, from the
sharp edges, and the clevis pins and rings from
falling out and the mast falling down.
7
CAUTION DANGER : ALUMINIUM MAST - STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL WIRES
CONTACT WITH ELECTRICAL WIRES MAY CAUSE DEATH

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Take the yellow jib sheet and pass one end through
one of the jib sheet cleats mounted on the front
cross beam and tie a knot onto the jib clew (the
back, lowest corner or the sail). Do the same with
other end of the rope, through the other jib sheet
cleat on the opposite side of the front cross beam.
Make sure the rope passes behind the mast on the
trampoline.
Take the jib halyard line a tension the jib.
Tie off the halyard around the cleat
mounted on the front of the mast. Tie off
the excess rope.
Once the jib is hoisted shackle the tack
(the front corner of the jib) to the front
stay adjuster.
Jib sail
Unfold the jib and tie using a ‘bow-line’ (or similar) knot onto the head of the sail. Clip the jib luff (the front edge
of the sail) onto the forestay wire. To do this turn the clips at 09’ then push and twist onto the forestay. Pull the
jib up the mast with the other end of the jib halyard and continue clipping the sail onto the forestay as you go.
1
2
3
4

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Mainsail
Place the sail on the trampoline, the battens
clips towards the back. Undo the main halyard
wire from the mast and shackle it to the head
board of the mainsail. Now, feed the bolt rope at
the head of the sail into the cut out in the sail
track on the mast.
3
Now, pull on the main halyard line whilst feeding
the sail into the track cut out.
4
When the sail is all the way
up, position the stopper on
the wire halyard so that it
engages in the halyard lock.
5
Lead the halyard behind the shroud and trapeze wire and
secure at the halyard cleat on the side of the mast. Do not
pull too hard as you may disengage the halyard lock. Tuck
the excess halyard into the trampoline pocket.
6
Using the straps and clips on the leech of the mainsail, secure each batten into it’s
respective pocket (as per photograph). Push the battens in reasonably hard -
sufficient to remove any wrinkles from the pocket.
NOTE : it is important to relieve the tension on the battens after each day’s sailing.
This will prolong the life of the sail.
Unfold the mainsail and lay on a flat clean surface. Undo the set of battens and
identify which batten goes in which batten pocket. Insert the battens into the pockets.
NOTE : the second batten pocket from the bottom takes the longest batten.
1
2
BEFORE RAISING THE MAINSAIL, MAKE SURE THAT THE BOAT IS POINTING INTO
THE WIND. IF THE WIND CHANGES DIRECTION, MOVE THE BOAT.

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The top double block then clips
onto the clew of the mainsail.
Clip the mainsheet block with
the cleat attached onto the
pad-eye located in the center
of the rear cross beam.
Mainsheet & Cuningham
Position the top double ratchet
block as shown on the
photograph opposite the lower
block. Carefully follow the
threading sequence shown in
the photographs.
1 2
MAINSHEET SYSTEM
3
CUNNINGHAM
The Cunningham line will
already be attached to the tack
(front, lower corner) of the
mainsail. The rope passes
from the tack, down around the
cleat mounted on the rear of
the mast and then back up to
the mainsail. The rope passes
through the eye of the mainsail
tack, then back down to the
cleat and ties off, providing a
3:1 purchase.
NB……Simple tension the
Cunningham till firm. Pull
harder on the Cunningham
for stronger winds.

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Hawaïan righting system
of each rope tie the small pulley supplied in the kit.
Take the shock cord supplied in the kit. Tie it with a tight knot onto the first ring supplied in the kit.
Pass the shock cord through the first pulley used in step 1, The shock cord passes then through
the eyelet at the center of the trampoline directly behind the mast step ball and back into the
eyelet of the trampoline. Then pass the shock cord through the second pulley used in step 1 and
step 1.
Tie the 2 small black pieces of rope onto the trampoline
lacing at each end of the rear cross beam. To the other end
Take the righting rope (12 mm
yellow rope in the rope bag)
and pass it through one of the
pad-eyes mounted under the
front cross beam. Tie a knot in
the rope so the end of the rope
cannot pass through the pad-
eye. The knot should be on
the front end of the boat.
3
1
2
Named after the Hawaiian’s who are generally pretty relaxed people the Hawaiian righting system combines
safety, speed and comfort when righting your capsized catamaran.
Pass the rope through the first
ring, then through the ring in
the center of the front cross
beam, then through the second
ring. Fix then this rope to the
pad-eye on the opposite side
and secure the rope as per
4
From above From below

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Safety & advice
CAUTION / SAFETY TIPS
♦ Whether on land or on the water, watch for overhead power lines. Contact with power
lines can cause serious injury or death.
♦ DO NOT sail while under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs
♦ Only sail in conditions in which you feel comfortable and where you feel confident that
you can safely sail the boat. Never go out in conditions beyond your ability.
♦ Everyone on board should wear a life jacket at all times.
♦ If you are in the water, remain in contact with the boat, even if it is capsized. A sailboat
can drift away faster than a person can swim.
♦ Never sail without a righting line.
♦ Wear appropriate clothes. Wear a wet suit or dry suit in cold weather or cold water
conditions.
♦ Learn the right of way rules and when in doubt, give way to others.
♦ When not sailing, always keep the boat pointed into the wind whether in the water or
on the beach.
♦ Read the instruction manual carefully.
♦ Make sure everyone on the boat reads and understnads these safety instructions.
♦ ALWAYS check that the drain plugs are screwed in before launching your catamaran.