Hobie Wave User manual

Assembly
Manual

WELCOME TO THE
HOBIE WAY OF LIFE
Congratulations on the purchase of your new Wave and welcome to the HOBIE®sailing family. The HOBIE
Wave cannot be outgrown. It can be sailed by children and senior citizens. A 90-pound youth can handle it
easily, a single adult can sail it at top performance, and a crew of four can cruise in comfort.
We offer this manual as a guide to increased safety and enjoyment of your new boat. The purpose of this pub-
lication is to provide easy, simple and accurate instructions on how to get your Wave ready for the water.
Please read them carefully and familiarize yourself with the boat and all of the parts.
Whether you are a new sailor or a veteran of many years, we recommend that you read this thoroughly before
your first sail and TRY IT OUR WAY FIRST! If you are new to sailing, this manual alone is not intended to
teach you how to sail. There are many excellent books, videos and courses on the safe handling of small sail-
boats. We suggest that you contact your local sailboat dealer, college or Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommen-
dations.
Watch for overhead wires whenever you are rigging, launching, sailing or trailering with the mast up. CON-
TACT OF THE MAST WITH POWER LINES COULD BE FATAL! Be certain that the rigging area and the area
that you will be sailing in are free of overhead power lines. Report any such power lines to your local power
authority and SAIL ELSEWHERE.
We take pride in presenting the Hobie Wave to you and hope that you'll take as much pride in owning her.
Fair winds and good sailing!
HHoobbiiee
CCaatt

1
Hobie Wave
Assembly Manual
This assembly manual takes you step-
by-step through the set-up and sailing of
your new Hobie Wave, and will help you
understand each part in detail.
Setting up your Hobie Wave PAGE
Wave terminology.................................2
List of parts...........................................3
Knots to use .........................................4
The hulls...............................................4
Classic Trampoline assembly ...........5-7
Club Trampoline assembly................7-8
Tensioning the trampoline ....................6
Mast assembly ..................................8-9
Stepping the mast ...........................9-11
Sail ................................................11-12
Downhaul and adjustment..................12
Mainsheet...........................................12
Rudder assembly ..........................12-13
Tiller crossbar.....................................13
Righting Line ......................................13
Please note that this manual covers two
models of the Hobie Wave (Classic and
Club).
Sailing your Hobie Wave ............PAGE
Trailering .............................................13-14
Car Topping..............................................14
Balancing the Boat...................................15
Steering ....................................................15
Sail Power ................................................15
Launching/ Landing .................................16
Turning......................................................16
Righting the Boat......................................16
Docking ...............................................16-17
Rudder Notes...........................................17
Safety tips ..................................Back page

2
Hobie Wave Terminology
MAST
DOWNHAUL RUDDER CASTINGS
TILLER ARM
SHROUD
HULL
BRIDLE
FORESTAY
SAIL CLEW
MAIN SHEET SYSTEM
RUDDER
SAIL
BATTENS
FORESTAY / BRIDLE
ADJUSTER
MAST FLOAT

SMALL PARTS DETAIL
3
LIST OF PARTS
You should have:
1. (2) Hulls with Hardware
2. (1) Front Crossbar
3. (1) Rear Crossbar
4. (1) Trampoline
5. (1) Box of Small Parts
6. (1) Sail, Battens and Sail Bag
7. (2) Rudder Assemblies
8. (1) Tiller Crossbar
NOT SHOWN:
9. (1) Upper Mast Section
10. (1) Lower Mast Section
11. (1) Mast Float
12. (1) Trampoline Lace Rod
(taped to battens)
6
1
8
3
1
Á
2
4
1
3
Check the boat and parts carefully to be sure that all parts are present and that
the boat is in good order.
PARTS
Classic Small Hardware CLUB Small Hardware
66
Classic Small Parts Detail
1. Mainsheet Blocks
2. Mainsheet Line
3. Shrouds
4. Forestay and Bridles
5. Righting Line
6. Classic Small Hardware
a. (2)Shackles
b. (1)Downhaul Line
c. (1)Mast Stepper Pin
d. (5)Clevis Pins
e. (2)Bow Tangs
f. (2)Drain Plugs
g. (3)Adjusters
h. (4)Crossbar Eyestraps
Not shown here
7. (6)Tension Tramp Hooks
8. (4)Foam Tramp Plugs
9. Tramp Tensioning Wires
10. Halyard
Club Small Parts Detail
1. Mainsheet Blocks
2. Mainsheet Line
3. Shrouds
4. Forestay and Bridles
5. Righting Line
6. Club Small Hardware
a. (2)Shackles
b. (1)Downhaul Line
c. (1)Mast Stepper Pin
d. (5)Clevis Pins
e. (2)Bow Tangs
f. (2)Drain Plugs
g. (3)Adjusters
Not shown here
7. Halyard
8. Tramp Lace Line Long
9. Tramp Lace Line Short
5
2
4
5
7

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
KNOTS TO USE
FIGURE 8 KNOT BOWLINE KNOT HALYARD KNOT CLEATING OFF A LINE
1. 2.
FIGURE 8 KNOT
AT END OF LINE
1. THE HULLS
Lay the hulls on the ground on their sides with the bot-
toms to the center (graphics down) as shown here. A
tarp or pads may be desirable under the hull if the
ground surface is rough. Place the hulls about six feet
apart.
There is one drain plug in the rear of each hull (shown
inset). These plugs are used to drain the hulls. The
plugs should be in place before sailing. Remove the
drain plugs after sailing to empty any water that may
have leaked into the hulls. It is best to travel with and
store the boat with the drain plugs removed to allow for
pressure changes due to heating, cooling and altitude
changes. This will prevent warping of the hull surface.
4
PLUG
REEVING YOUR MAINSHEET BLOCK
1. Run the line though the cleat and under the lower
pulley.
2. Follow above the large pulley on the upper block.
3. Continue underneath the fiddle on the lower block.
4. Bring the line back up to the upper block and run
over the lower pulley.
5. Tie the line off at the becket on the lower pulley with
a bowline knot.
6. Place a figure eight knot at the end of the line to pre-
vent the line from pulling out of the pulley.

It will not be necessary to detach the crossbars from the
trampoline during future disassembly and assembly.
Once the trampoline is assembled to the crossbars
and they are in position, check to see that the
Velcro straps at the rear are loosely fastened.
First locate the crossbars and trampoline. These parts
are partially pre-assembled by the factory.
Unroll the trampoline assembly and position it between
the hulls. The front of the trampoline has a rope molded
into the edge seam and two "D" rings molded onto the
top surface. The sides and rear of the trampoline have
loops and cutouts along the edges. The front crossbar
has a casting with a mast step ball located on the top
center. The rear crossbar has a small stainless steel
loop fitting on the top center.
For first time assembly, slide the trampoline into the
front crossbar with the hiking straps up. Center the
trampoline on the crossbar.
It will also be necessary to feed the trampoline lace rod
into the pocket at the rear of the trampoline when
assembling for the first time. Position it with equal
amounts extending from each side of the trampoline.
Position the rear crossbar along the rear of the trampo-
line. Place it with the open track towards the trampoline
and the small stainless steel loop fitting at the center on
top.
Slide the four webbing straps (with Velcro) from the
small parts box inside of the track on the rear crossbar.
Once all four straps are inserted, insert the eyelet straps
in the track with the same positioning as in the front
crossbar. Slide the Velcro straps so that they align with
the lacing rod cutaways in the trampoline.
Follow the next few diagrams to lace the Velcro straps.
5
Rear Bar
Trampoline and lace rod
Web strap
Velcro Flap
Continue around the
rear bar.
Pass the Velcro straps
over the top of the bar and
away from the trampoline.
Pass the webbing for-
ward then around the
lace rod through the
trampoline opening from
top to bottom as shown in
figure 2d(3).
Bring the webbing back
around the rear bar in the
opposite direction.
Repeat the previous steps for
each strap. Then tuck each one
under the Velcro flaps. Fasten
the Velcro straps back to their
anchors loosely.
2a. CLASSIC CROSSBARS AND
TRAMPOLINE ASSEMBLY
Note: The assembly of the trampoline and
crossbar is different if you own a Hobie Club
Wave. Skip to 2b on page 7 for the Club Wave
assembly instructions.
Attached to the card of small parts are four eye straps
with screws and square nuts. On the front crossbar,
install the rope/block/wire assembly to an eye strap (pic-
ture below) on both sides of the crossbar. Be sure to
note from the picture below the location of the eye strap
in relation to the stopper on the bar.
You will want to fasten the remaining two eye straps to
the rear crossbar with the rope/block assembly. See the
picture below for reference.

Pass the two trampoline cables from the front crossbar
through the trampoline side loops to the rear crossbar.
As shown (from the underside of the trampoline) in
the figure below, on each side at the rear crossbar,
locate the line that runs from the rear corner pulley
block. Pass the line to the rear trampoline "D" ring and
return through the small pulley block. Pass the end of
the line through the trampoline cable end fitting and tie a
"figure 8" knot.
(Rear Corner, Underside)
(Top View)
The figure below is the top view of the figure above.
Making adjustments and retying the knot at the pulley
block will loosen or tighten the side cables. The cables
should be somewhat loose at this time. Be sure the "D"
rings remain as pictured above and not pulled from one
end when loaded, as damage may result.
Pulley block
Cable end
"D" ring
Crossbar
stop
Tensioning The Trampoline
As shown here, hook the
trampoline side cables
onto the three hooks on
each hull. (If you are re-
assembling, be sure that
the mainsheet system is
loose or disconnected
from ring at front of
trampoline to keep
cables loose.)
6
Remove the tramp tension hooks from the small parts
box. Each side of the boat gets three hooks. Slide the
hooks into the tramp track on each hull so that the
hooks face down. Align each hook along the track to
correspond with the notches on the side of the trampo-
line.
The foam plugs in the small parts
box are intended to prevent the
hooks from sliding out if the trampo-
line is removed during transporta-
tion. Squeeze each plug into the
ends of the hook track to install. If
the boat is to remain assembled
there is no need to install the plugs.
Lift the front crossbar and insert the left end into the left
hull. Insert only partially. Lift the rear crossbar and insert
the left end into the left hull. Keep the straps rolled
around the rear crossbar. Insert front and rear complete-
ly (see below). The crossbars have stops built into the
underside that will limit the depth the crossbar can be
inserted.
Reach up and hold the
right end of the front
crossbar, and pull it
down. This will rotate the
left hull to the upright
position. Straddle the
right hull and rotate it to
the upright position by
grabbing the crossbar
insert hole on the out-
board side and pulling it
horizontal to the ground.
Insert the front crossbar
partially. Align and insert
the rear crossbar partially. Working front and rear, wig-
gle hull onto crossbars until fully inserted (below).

2b. Club Wave Crossbar and
Trampoline Assembly
The CLUB WAVE incorporates a HOBIE standard three-
piece trampoline assembly with lace lines in the center
of the rear trampoline, as shown on the following page.
Insert the left and right main sections into the forward
crossbar (grommets toward the center and rear of the
boat) and the rear lacing strip into the rear crossbar.
Lift the front crossbar and insert the left end into the left
hull. Pick up the rear crossbar and insert the left end
into the left hull. The crossbars have stops built into the
underside that will limit the depth that the crossbar can
be inserted.
Reach up and hold the right end of the front crossbar,
and pull it down. This will rotate the left hull to the
upright position. Straddle the right hull and rotate it to
the upright position by grabbing the crossbar insert hole
on the outboard side and pulling it horizontal to the
ground. Insert the front crossbar partially. Align and
insert the rear crossbar partially. Working front and rear,
wiggle hull onto crossbars until fully inserted.
Once the crossbars are completely inserted, slide the
tramp halves in the front crossbar into the hull/tramp
tracks on each hull. Use of soap or spray silicone to
lube the track can help if it is difficult to slide in.
Three lace lines are provided (see picture on the next
page for the lacing diagram). The longer lace line (17’)
will be tied to the forward end of the center lace grom-
mets with a bowline knot. Lace the line through all of
the center grommets to the rear of the trampoline as
shown (by number) in the illustration. Lace the rear of
the tramp starting from the outboard ends toward the
center. Tension all lace lines and tie off with half hitches
at the rear/center of the trampoline.
To tension the trampoline, you will use the mainsheet
system (block and tackle). Find the mainsheet system
located with the small parts and run the line through the
blocks if you haven’t already done it. Attach the shackle
at the bottom of the blocks to the stainless steel loop fit-
ting in the center of the rear crossbar. Pull the main-
sheet hook at the top of
the system, up to the
front of the trampoline.
Hook the mainsheet to
the ring fastened to the
trampoline cable system
at front of trampoline as
seen here. (Do not fasten the mainsheet hook to the
"D" ring that is attached to the trampoline.) Start on
either left or right side.
Pull tension on the mainsheet until the cable system ring
and hook near the "D"
ring attached to the
position hook to engage
ring, thereby connecting
the two rings together as
in the figure below.
Release the mainsheet tension and unhook from ring.
Repeat the process on the opposite side. Be sure all "D"
rings are positioned as shown and not turned or pulled
from ends, as damage to
the trampoline may
result.
Additional tension or
reduced tension can be
achieved by repositioning
the knot as shown in the
image below at rear end of cable (after disengaging the
forward rings). The cables should be tight to make the
trampoline area taut. Unhook rings at front, move knot
and re-hook forward rings. Repeat until trampoline area is
taut. In future assembly this adjustment will not be neces-
sary unless trampoline becomes loose once again.
Adjust knot here
Tighten each Velcro strap (4) to support the trampoline at
the rear crossbar.
The assembly instructions below are for the Hobie
Club Wave crossbar and trampoline. Skip ahead to
page 8, Mast Assembly, if you own a Classic Wave.
7

3. MAST ASSEMBLY
The mast is in two sections. The bottom section is alu-
minum and displays the warnings against sailing and
assembling near overhead wires and power lines.
Before raising the mast check again that you are in
a safe area and always remember this warning.
Insert the upper section into the lower section.
Install the mast float to the upper mast section as shown
here. First time assembly will require the removal of the
two halyard pulley screws and nuts, and placement of
the float assembly over the mast top casting assembly.
Be sure the blunt end of the float is facing forward
towards blunt side of the mast.
With the mast float installed, make sure that the upper
section fits completely into the lower section. Locate the
main halyard line and place the hook through the cleat
located at the base of the mast (see image to the right)
in the luff track. Bring the line up to the top of the mast,
through the halyard pulley, and back down to the bot-
tom. Tie it off at the cleat on the side of the mast.
8
Hobie Club Wave Tramp Lacing
Note: Using a spray silicone or soapy water in the tramp track
and crossbar grooves prior to installing the tramp can greatly
reduce friction and damage while sliding into position.

4. MAST WIRES
The mast will be held in the upright position by two side
wires (shrouds) and one front wire (forestay). The
forestay will attach to two shorter wires (bridles) with a
"7 hole" adjuster. Locate the three main (longer) wires
and install onto the mast tang as shown below using the
1/4" threaded shackle provided in the rig kit. The shorter
forestay wire goes in the middle of the shackle with one
shroud on either side.
9
5. STEPPING THE MAST
To set the mast into the upright position, position the
mast base at the mast step ball located on the front
crossbar as shown below. The mast top and float should
be positioned to the rear of the boat in the center of the
rear crossbar.
Connect one adjuster plate to the anchor plate to each
hull using the clevis pins. Once the adjuster plates are
installed, place the shroud in the adjuster and run a cle-
vis pin through to secure (see image below).
Slide the vinyl boot over the assembly to cover and pre-
vent loss of the pins if a ring should fall out.stay from the
CLASSIC Wave:
Attach the multi hole adjuster
to the forestay as shown in the
image to the right with the cle-
vis pin and ring at the end hole
of the adjuster. This is the
loose adjustment. Shackle the
bridle wires (thimble loop end)
to the bottom of the adjuster.
This leaves the spring hook at
the very end of the
forestay/adjuster/bridle
assembly.
Connect the mast base to the step ball by positioning
the step ball inside the mast base cup. Pass the pin
through the mast base as shown below.
To attach the bridles, unscrew the two screws at the
bows of each hull. Included in the small hardware pack-
age are two bow tangs. For the
Club Wave, you’ll want to place
the bow tangs through the thim-
ble on the bridle wires and
screw the tangs to the hull.
You’ll notice that the tangs have
a “slope” to them. You want the
“slope” of the tang to point
toward the middle of the boat.
If you are assembling a Wave
Classic, attach just the bow
tangs to the hull.
Center
of the
boat.
Bow tang is leaning
toward the center of
the boat. PIN

If you have someone helping you rig, you can hold the
mast upright while they follow the next step. Club
Wave instructions are on the following page.
Classic Wave:
See that the forestay wire is not tangled and runs direct-
ly from mast tang fitting. Using the quick-snap hooks on
the ends of the bridle wires, attach each to the bow
tangs. Use the small plastic balls to grip and pull down
on the bridle wires.
Check wires to be sure they are not crossed and that they
freely allow the mast to swing to the upright position.
If you are stepping the mast by yourself, or just to make
things easier, pull the sail halyard hook forward, over the
top of the shroud wires, to the bow. Hook into the bridle
wire fitting. Loosely tie opposite end of halyard to the
cleat at the bottom end of the mast. This line will be used
to hold mast in the upright position before forestay and
bridle wire assembly are attached to the bow fittings.
10
WARNING!!
Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,
trailer or sail the boat near overhead power
lines. Mast contact with a power line
could be fatal.
As shown below, pass the long pin through the mast
base. There is a small spring-loaded ball lock that will
keep the pin captive in the mast base. For safety, the
pin should remain in the mast base while sailing.
Before continuing, check once again for overhead
power line wires that could contact the mast when
raising.
Stand on the trampoline near the rear crossbar and lift
the mast to your shoulder.
Face forward on the boat with a wide stance for stability.
Walk forward while lifting the mast until the side shrouds
become tight, preventing the mast from further forward
movement. Lean your weight against the mast to hold it in
this position.
The halyard line should be
running from the top of the
mast directly to the bow fitting.
Carefully let go of the mast to
be sure that it will stay upright.
If not, add tension to halyard
line and re-cleat.
This will hold the mast in the
upright position while you get
off the trampoline to fasten
the bridle wires to the bow fit-
tings.
Reach down to the
halyard cleat and pull
the halyard line tight.
Fasten the line to the
cleat in a secure man-
ner as shown in
"Knots" on page 4.

6. INSTALLING THE SAIL BATTENS
Unfold the sail and lay it out on the trampoline. There
will be a small bundle of thin lines tied to the top of the
sail. These are the batten tension lines. Tie the batten
tension lines to one of the small grommets at the end of
each batten pocket as diagramed below (one to each
batten pocket). Tie the lines using a bowline knot as
found in the "knots" diagram on page 4. It is best to tie
the lines all to one side of the sail. Insert each batten
(shortest at the top to longest at the bottom of the sail).
Note: The batten ends have a "V" jam cleat molded
into them. These "V" jam cleats will keep the ten-
sion line from slipping in only one direction. Note
the hollowed-out side of the cleats. Pull the line
from the flush side toward the hollowed side.
The upper two battens are narrower and have a differ-
ent cleat shape. To be sure these cleats work correctly,
position them so that the hollowed-out side of the cap
faces the bowline that you have tied to the sail grommet.
Position the larger caps so that the hollowed sides face
away from each knot.
Following the diagram above, lace the tension lines
through each batten end cap. Pass the line through the
hole in the cap then through the grommet on the oppo-
site side. For the smaller caps, pass the line over the "V"
cleat, and pull tight to force the batten into the pocket,
then pull the line into the cleat to hold it. For the larger
caps, pass the line through the second hole in the cap,
then pass the line through the first grommet and back to
the "V" cleat. Pull tension on the line forcing the batten
into the pocket and cleat it. Tie a small “figure 8” knot in
the end of each line to prevent the battens from falling
from the sail if the line releases from the cleat. Tension
each batten so that the batten is well seated and the
wrinkles in the batten pockets are removed. Excessive
batten tension will cause the sail to be more difficult to
handle.
11
Club Wave
The bridles should already be attached to the hulls by
this point (see page 9). Once the mast is stepped, grab
the end of the forestay and slide it into the adjuster on
the bridles and fasten with a clevis pin. Make sure that
the forestay is not tangled around anything and that the
bridles aren’t twisted in the bow tangs.
There is a limit to the amount of aft mast rake. This will
be seen when the main sail block on the sail clew nears
or touches the block attached to
the rear crossbar when fully sheet-
ed while sailing. Too much mast
rake will not allow you to sheet the
sail properly. It may also be more
difficult to tack the boat, as the
“mast forward” design is intended
to help bring the bows through the
wind when tacking. Positioning the
shrouds lower will rake (lean) the
mast aft. This can help when sail-
ing in higher winds.
Length adjustment of the forestay is made to tension the
mast wires. Tighten the forestay until all wires are some-
what rigid and without “slop”.
Use the halyard line attached to
the bow tang and cleated tightly
to hold the mast well forward
when making these adjustments.
Release one bow bridle snap
hook. Make adjustments to the
clevis pin location in the adjuster
and then reattach the bridle hook
to the bow fitting. Release the
halyard from the bow fitting and
reposition it down the rear of the
mast and secure to the cleat.
Once this adjustment is made you can assemble and
disassemble using only the quick-snap hooks to the bow
fittings unless the rig becomes loose after use. NOTE: It
is normal for the shroud on the downwind (leeward)
side to be loose while sailing.
Batten pocket
Start here with a
bowline knot
Cleat at mouth of each tip
Hollowed-out
side of tip

cleat mounted in the luff track of the mast. Run the line
up to and through the "tack" grommet. Run the line back
down to the cleat. Tension it and then tie to the cleat as
shown in "knots" on page 4.
Downhaul Adjustment
The downhaul should be tensioned just enough to
remove the horizontal wrinkles in the sail luff (forward
area). The boat will perform best with light tension in
light air and a bit more when the wind is stronger.
7. RAISING THE SAIL
Place the sail in the center of the trampoline with the
exposed batten ends to the rear. The front of the sail
has what is called a "luff rope" running the length of it.
This rope is fed into the mast "luff" track when raising
the sail.
As shown here, hook
the halyard to the top
of the sail. Pass the
tail end of the halyard
line through the thim-
ble that holds the hal-
yard hook and tie a
knot. This will create
a continuous loop
with the halyard as
with a flag halyard. This will allow you to pull the hal-
yard hook back down the mast if the hook disengages
from the sail while hoisting. Feed the top portion of sail
into the mast track opening, then begin pulling on the
halyard line. Use caution to be sure the sail feeds
smoothly into the mast while raising. Hoist the sail all
the way to the top of the mast. It will be necessary to
help feed the sail into the track while hoisting.
As shown here, there
is a two-fingered hook
at the top of the mast.
The halyard has a
small bead of metal
which is held by this
hook when fully
raised.
When fully raised, pull the halyard line (while still holding
tension) forward and away from the mast. Keep the line
centered with the mast. Then pull the line back against
the mast. This will place the bead below the two fin-
gered hook. Release the halyard to engage the hook.
Repeat the process if the sail does not remain at the top
of the mast. The line must be centered with the mast to
engage the hook. Tie the halyard line to the mast cleat.
9. MAINSHEET
Hook the mainsheet to the
"clew" grommet at the rear
of the sail as shown here.
Refer to page 4 to learn to
reeve the mainsheet system
if it isn’t already done.
8. DOWNHAUL
Locate the downhaul line. Tie it to the sail "tack" grom-
met near the mast (when finished sailing, leave it tied
here). Pass the line down and through the center of the
10. RUDDER ASSEMBLY
As shown in the figure to
the right, line up the rudder
pintles (metal pegs on the
hulls) with the rudder hous-
ing. Push the rudder hous-
ing down onto the pintles.
NOTE: The rudder must
be between the up and
down position in order to
install and remove the
rudders from the pinltes.
Place the locking key over
the groove in the upper
pintle. This key will pre-
vent the rudders from
falling off the boat in the
event of a capsize.
12
Hook

13
11. TILLER CROSSBAR
The rudder arms are connected by a bar called the tiller
crossbar. Position the crossbar between the two rud-
ders. Slide the pin on the tiller crossbar through the
hole at the end of the rudder tiller arms. Lock the key
on the bungee cord onto the groove that is on the stain-
less steel pin.
12. RIGHTING LINE
The righting line is the white and blue line in your box of
small parts.
Club Wave Owners: Run each end of the line over the
crossbar, through the eye strap on the bottom, and up
through the hole in the tramp. Tie each end off with a
bowline knot.
Classic Wave Owners: Run each end of the line over
the crossbar and through the eye strap that tensions the
trampoline. Tie the line off with a bowline knot.
Once the line is securely tied, you can tuck away the
excess line in the pocket on the trampoline to help
keep your lines organized.
Your Hobie Wave is now ready to sail!
Please read the sections in the following pages
regarding safety and sailing the Wave. This
additional information will help you have more
fun with your new boat!
The rudders are locked in the
“down” position by pushing down
on the tiller arm
To raise the rudder, lift up on the
tiller arm.
SAILING YOUR HOBIE
SAILING YOUR HOBIE
W
WA AVE VE
Safe and sane guideline for the beginner; an easy review for
the experienced.
Always wear a life jacket when boating.
TRAILERING
CAUTION: Boat and mast should be securely attached to trail-
er with adequate tie-down straps. Failure to do so could cause
extensive damage or serious injury!
LOADING YOUR TRAILER
The weight of the boat, equipment and additional gear should
never exceed the manufacturer's rated weight capacity. Proper
distribution of the load is of vital importance. Too much weight
on the hitch will cause "tail dragging" of the towing vehicle,
impairing steering and raising headlights into the eyes of
oncoming traffic. Too little or negative weight on the hitch, and
the trailer will sway or "fishtail". The solution to proper distribu-
tion is often adjusting movable gear.
TOWING
Extra caution is necessary when towing any trailer. The heav-
ier the rig, the more time required to accelerate, pass, and
stop. For this reason, in most states, the maximum speed for
vehicles with trailers is less than without a trailer in most
states. A long rig requires a larger turning radius. Curbs and
obstructions should be given wide clearance. Most boats on
trailers obstruct the rear view of the driver. When this hap-
pens, an additional rear view mirror on the right side of the
towing vehicle is required by law.
The trailering sailor should be familiar with traffic and highway
laws relating to the towing of trailers. Towing a Hobie presents
particular hazards that should be mentioned. A Hobie is very
wide. Obstacles should be given plenty of room when passing.
Tie down straps or lashings should be of sufficient size and
diameter and placed on all four corners.
The mast support on a trailer is subject to a lot of side-to-side
motion and consequently may fatigue where it is welded to the
trailer. All this can be reduced by tying a line from each bow to
the mast support. This will stiffen the rig and prolong the life of
the trailer.
LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVING
Prepare boat for launching at the top of the ramp or parking
facility. Remove all tie-down straps, check boat plugs and fas-
ten boat painter. Do not release winch line until boat is in the
water. Back trailer to the left if possible; backing left gives bet-
ter launching visibility. Avoid dunking wheel bearings when
possible. Never leave the towing vehicle unattended on the
ramp with only the parking brake set. If vehicle must be left
while on the ramp, set transmission in "park" or first gear, in

addition to setting the parking brake. In retrieving your boat,
make sure that the boat is properly placed on the trailer. Pull
trailer up steadily to prevent spinning the wheels.
MAINTENANCE
Lights: Most state laws require two red taillights on the rear
that may be combined with the stop and turn signals. Vehicles
over 80 inches in width require clearance lights. If lights are
dunked, waterproof light fixtures should be used. If water is
allowed to enter, the lamp may crack and short out the entire
system. Water also promotes contact corrosion. Always carry
spare lamps. The wire coupling to the towing vehicle should
be high enough to stay dry. Never rely on the trailer hitch for
ground connection. Four-pole connectors should be used.
The mast should not extend over three feet behind the rear
light assembly.
Wheels: Tires should ALWAYS be inflated to manufacturer's
recommended pressure. Always carry a spare wheel and a
jack that fit the boat trailer. If wheel bearings are always
dunked, waterproof bearings and caps should be considered.
If water is allowed into the hub, lubricating grease will float
away and bearings will burn out or seize, causing damage and
a safety hazard. Waterproofed bearings should be inspected
prior to each boating season, others more often. Special care
should be given when traveling on unimproved roadways with
small diameter wheels.
If a spare wheel is not available, a spare wheel bearing set
should be taken on long trips in case the grease seal has been
broken.
FRAME AND ROLLERS
Rust should not be allowed to accumulate. Remove rust and
repaint with anti-rust paint. Some trailers offer galvanized coat-
ing to prevent rust. Rollers should roll freely and should not
have checks, breaks or flat spots.
TOWING VEHICLE
Most vehicles are limited in towing capacity. Towing heavy
loads places extra demands on the engine, transmission,
brakes and other systems vital to the vehicle. Towing "pack-
ages" are available through most auto dealers and should be
considered for heavy boats.
IMPORTANT CAR-TOPPING
CAUTIONS
Caution is required when car-topping the Wave or any object
on top of a car. Common sense must be followed to ensure
that the roof rack that is used will handle the weight of the
boat. Roof rack manufacturer's weight limitations and tie-down
guidelines must be strictly followed. If in doubt, the best course
to follow is to trailer the boat.
The following are important rules to follow...
"Roof racks" that come as standard equipment on cars are
not designed to handle heavy loads. Choose an accessory
roof rack with weight ratings that will handle the Wave or
parts. If in doubt, check with the manufacturer.
Always follow the roof rack manufacturer's weight limita-
tions.
Carefully follow the roof rack manufacturer's directions for
attaching the rack to your car.
Securely tie all parts carried on the rack to the roof rack.
Use a good quality line of at least 1/4" diameter for tie-downs.
Avoid using polypropylene line as it does not hold knots well.
Tie the front and back of each hull to the front and back
bumper of your car (see diagram below) in addition to
other tie-downs.
Drivers should use extra caution due to the higher profile
of the vehicle and additional windage, especially when
related to side winds.
Always Stop to check the tie-downs shortly after beginning
a trip, and check often on long trips. Check for lines that
may become loose or worn.
Not all racks are designed to carry a load the size of the
Wave. Some racks may accommodate carrying only a por-
tion of the boat parts on the roof and the remaining parts
in the trunk.
Weight -
Two Wave hulls 160 lbs.
Mast 30 lbs.
Tramp and Xbars 31 lbs.
Rudder assembly 29 lbs.
Sail with battens 12 lbs.
14

Refer to the sail trim diagram below for approximate sail set-
tings for the different points of sail or directions you will be sail-
ing. Note the "can't sail zone". You cannot sail in this direc-
tion due to the fact that the sail will luff constantly when point-
ed into the wind. If you get “stuck in irons” (stopped pointed
into the wind), you will need to reverse the rudder and push
the sail forward to back-wind. This will back the boat up.
Reverse the rudders and let the sail out until the boat is posi-
tioned more across the wind (close reach). Then you can cor-
rectly trim the sail once again and start moving forward.
WIND
COMING
ABOUT
FALLING
OFF
HEADING UP
WIND
CAN'T SAIL IN
THIS AREA
Close Hauled
Close Hauled
Close Reach
Close Reach
Medium Reach
Broad Reach
Medium Reach
Broad Reach
Downwind Run
BASIC SAILING AND POINTS OF SAIL
BALANCING THE BOAT
When sailing, sit on the upwind side of the boat (wind on your
back) just in front of the tiller facing the sail. Balance your
weight further outboard as the boat begins to tip or heel over
with the wind in the sails. Tuck one foot under the hiking strap
for balance. Use your forward hand to hold and control the
mainsheet, and use your aft hand to steer.
STEERING
Steer the boat by pushing the tiller away from you to turn
towards the wind. Pull the tiller towards you to turn away from
the wind. Keep the movement of the tiller to a minimum to pre-
vent over-steering. This will help you keep the boat moving in
a straight line as you pay attention to other watercraft and sail
adjustments.
SAIL POWER
Face the sail to monitor the trim or adjustment of the sail.
When the front of the sail, just behind the mast, luffs or flutters
in the breeze, you lose power. To start moving, pull the sail in
just enough to stop the sail from luffing. There are also short
ribbons hanging on either side of the sail. Follow the diagram
of sail and course adjustments above using these "tell tails" to
get optimum performance from the sail for all angles of sailing.
The tell tails react to air flowing over the sail and will help you
determine whether the sail is pulled in too tightly or too loose-
ly. If you pull the sail in too tight, you will stall the sail power.
Ease the sail out until it luffs, then pull it in just a little until it
stops luffing. You will adjust the trim whenever the wind shifts
direction or you change course.
15

LAUNCHING THE BOAT
Launching the boat is easiest when the boat can be pointed
into the wind to keep it de-powered and floated into deep
enough water to lower the rudders. It is possible to launch in
shallow water with the rudders partly up. Try not to steer with
too much force on the rudders until you lock them in the
“down” position. Keep the sail loose and trimmed out com-
pletely. Turn the boat away from the wind, push off into deeper
water, then hop on. Once aboard, trim the sail in quickly to get
the boat moving forward and steer away from the wind slightly
to prevent stalling into the wind.
When launching from a beach where the wind is blowing from
the beach towards the water, simply keep the boat pointed into
the wind. Drift backwards with the rudders in the “up” position.
Drift the boat away from the beach backwards and hop on
when floating completely. Stay forward as the boat drifts into
deeper water. You can hold the sail out to catch wind back-
wards to increase reverse speed, then move to the rear and
lower the rudders. It will be easiest to lower only one rudder
while moving backwards; then lower the other when the boat
begins to move forward again. Be aware of the intended direc-
tion you wish to sail when lowering the rudder and steer the
boat as the rudder drops into the water. There will be a lot of
force on the rudder to turn one way or the other when going
backwards. Plan ahead and steer the rudders so that they will
be pointing in that direction before dropping them into the
water. Steer the boat while going backwards so the bow turns
away from the wind and toward the direction you wish to sail.
As the sail begins to fill with wind, the boat will slow, then
begin to move forward. Trim in the sail and off you go!
maneuver as the sail will now have to swing clear across from
fully out one side of the boat to fully out the other.
To start a jibe, turn the boat away from the wind and let the
sail out slowly. Keep the turn going at a steady rate and begin
pulling the sail back in as the boat nears the straight downwind
direction. This will help prevent the sail from slamming all the
way across when the sail fills from the opposite side. Duck
below the sail to avoid getting hit as the wind fills the sail from
the opposite side and swings across the boat. Attempt to con-
trol the speed of the sail while it crosses the deck by maintain-
ing some tension on the mainsheet. Then ease the mainsheet
out quickly as the boat turns past the downwind direction onto
the new point of sail. Trim the sail according to the desired
point of sail.
RIGHTING THE BOAT
A 15 foot length of "righting line" is provided with the boat. Tie
each end to the outboard ends of the forward crossbar pass-
ing through the eye straps. Tie off with bowline knots. Store
the excess line in the trampoline pocket.
If you tip the boat over, stay with the boat. The boat will not
sink and is easy to right. It is not necessary, but it is easier, to
right the boat when the bow and the mast are pointed into the
wind as in the following diagram. There will be less wind resis-
tance and better control in this position. Be sure the mainsheet
is released, then swim around to the bottom of the boat. Climb
up on the hull and stand up. Using the righting line that is tied
to the front crossbar at each end,
hold the line while slowly leaning
back away from the trampoline.
Lean to approximately 45 degrees
for best leverage. As the mast and
sail lift out of the water and the
upper hull begins to drop back into
the water, drop down to your knees
then into the water. Hold onto the
righting line near the crossbar or
the crossbar itself near the hull that
you were standing on. This will pre-
vent the hull from being lifted into
the air by momentum which could cause the boat to capsize
once again. Be aware of the hull and crossbar coming down
over your head. Holding the crossbar or righting line will also
insure that you remain with the boat when it is righted. Climb
aboard and continue sailing.
DOCKING
Docking the Wave properly will prevent damage. Always dock
and rig on the leeward side of a dock (the side the wind reach-
es last). Come in slowly and always be aware of the wind
direction so you can properly de-power the boat when needed.
The stronger the wind, the more difficult the docking will be.
Until you feel confident, you may want to practice with a friend
who will remain on the dock and help slow you down
if necessary.
TURNING
To tack or turn the boat into and across the wind to the oppo-
site direction (also known as "coming about"), follow the
Points of Sail guide illustration and take the boat to the close
hauled point of sail. This is when you are nearly 35 degrees
from sailing straight into the wind. With the boat moving for-
ward and not stalling, slowly push the tiller away from you
slowly. When the boat is pointing straight into the wind, the
boat will become level. Ease the mainsheet trim out just a lit-
tle. At this time move your body to the other side of the boat,
switch hands with tiller and mainsheet and begin to bring the
rudder back to straight. As the boat comes across the wind
and falls off onto the opposite, close-hauled point of sail, bring
the tiller all the way back to the straight position and pull the
mainsail back in for proper sail trim. If you stall pointing into
the wind and you cannot steer the boat, refer to the Sail Power
description concerning getting stuck in irons.
When sailing downwind, the turn from one point of sail across
to the other is called a jibe. The jibe is completed by turning
away from the wind (falling off) to the opposite point of sail
rather than into the wind as when tacking. Care must be taken
when attempting a jibe, as the boat will be at full power and
you cannot easily de-power it without turning back into the
wind. Also, be aware that the boat will be less stable in this
16

BEACH LANDINGS
Landing on a beach is simple. The idea is to reach the beach
in the point of sail nearest straight into the wind as possible.
This will assure that you can properly de-power the sail once
beached.
To maintain power while approaching a beach when the wind
is blowing from the beach out toward the water, will require
some planning. Then turn into shore just before the hulls or
rudders touch bottom. Plan so the final tack toward the loca-
tion you choose to land is the tack that is nearest straight into
the wind. Get a little closer to the beach than you need to on
the previous tack to account for wind shifts in direction and
speed. This will give you a little room for error. This will also
allow you to point a little further away from the wind after the
tack to gain speed before heading into the beach to de-power
at the last moment.
When approaching a beach when the wind is blowing onshore,
sail in toward the beach from either side of the landing spot. Sail
in just short of touching the bottom with the rudders. Allow some
distance to turn the boat out toward the water and into the wind,
just out from the landing spot. Turn sharply to head into the
wind and stall the boat. Raise the rudders and drift back onto
the beach.
Always keep the boat pointed into the wind while beached
and keep the sail trimmed out and un-cleated.
RUDDER NOTES
Attached to the side of each rudder is a locking pin. This pin is
designed to keep your rudder in the up position during trans-
portation. Bumpy launch ramps or steep angled beaches
could cause the rudders to drop down, causing the blade to
dig into the ground. To install the pin, put the rudder in the up
position and simply remove the pin that is snapped to the cast-
ing and insert it through the hole in the side of the rudder.
When you want to put the rudder back down, remove the pin
and snap it back into the side of the casting.
Upkeep and Precautions
1. When in use, make sure that the rudder is locked in the
down position. You will know if your rudder isn't down all the
way if steering feels heavy.
2. If used in saltwater, is it always a good idea to rinse rudder
assembly with fresh water.
3. If boat is stored outdoors for extended periods of time with-
out being used, remove rudder assembly and store indoors.
4. Avoid storing rudder assembly in extremely hot locations
such as in direct sunlight in a vehicle with windows closed.
17
Rudder Detent Pressure Adjustment
Your rudder assembly comes from the factory preadjusted for
optimal detent pressure. This detent keeps the rudder in
either the up or down position. With much use, the rudder
detent pressure may need to be adjusted. To increase the
amount of detent, tighten the bolts on the side of the rudder
housing. It doesn't take much adjustment to make a big differ-
ence (maximum 1 full turn). If the bolt is tightened too
much it will bind the rudder movement.

HOBIE CAT COMPANY
4925 Oceanside Blvd.
Oceanside, CA 92056
Phone [phone] Fax [phone]
WWW.HOBIECAT.COM
For your nearest HOBIE dealer
or
for help and information call:
1 (800) HOBIE - 49
or visit us as
www.hobiecat.com
Revision C 6/26/07 #3845-0010
CAUTION / SAFETY TIPS
•Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,
trailer or sail the boat near overhead power
lines. Contact with a power line could be fatal.
•Sail to your experience. Know your limita-
tions. Do not take the Wave out in the surf
and do not head out to the ocean unless you
are an experienced sailor.
•Wear a life jacket. Wearing life vests while
sailing is important for everyone. Due to the
large number of novice sailors who have pur-
chased the Wave, it is even more important to
review this safety issue. Wearing a life vest is
a smart thing to do. Also, a sailboat could sail
away by itself if a person were to fall over-
board. The best advice is to stay with the
boat. If you happen to fall overboard, or when
righting the boat, you should hold onto the
boat and not let it get away.
•Learn the right-of-way rules and when in
doubt, give way to others.
•Adhere to car roof rack manufacturer's
weight limitations and tie-down sugges-
tions when car-topping the Wave. (The
combined weight of the Wave hulls and mast
is approximately 190 lbs.)
•When trailering the Wave be sure to tie the
boat and all the loose parts to the trailer in
a secure manner. Stop and check the tie
downs often.
•Hobie Cat does not recommend leaving the
Wave in the water on a mooring, as acceler-
ated wear to the boat and rigging will be expe-
rienced. Damage to the hull material is possi-
ble. Limitation of the mast rotation and ten-
sioning of the rigging are required to lessen
this wear. Inspect rigging often and tape rig-
ging rings and shackles to prevent loosening.
18