Hogtunes WILD BOAR AUDIO WBARG KIT 2R User manual

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Wild Boar Audio Contact Information
Email: [email protected]
Tel: [phone]
The WBA 400.2R amplifier is a Class D design. It should be
understood that ALL Class D amplifiers, REGARDLESS OF BRAND, cause
a reduction in FM reception. The WBA 400.2R features a proprietary
circuit design called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference
Technology) that Hogtunes believes gives the BEST FM reception
available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle.
If you add a 2nd or 3rd model amplifier to your system, reduction
of FM reception is increased and is considered normal.
Hogtunes understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics
of in-fairing antennas, however it should be noted that
NOTHING WORKS AS WELL AS THE FACTORY ANTENNA.
If FM is an important part of your riding experience, we strongly
advise against the use of any in fairing type antenna!
Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes Wild Boar Audio WBARG Kit.2R for
2015+ Rushmore Platform Road Glides. Since positive word of mouth is the
best way to grow our business, we want your new system to work as well as it
was designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help.
IMPORTANT
For Road Glide and Road Glide Special models, this system requires a radio
re-flash by a dealer to work properly. This is explained in Section 3 of the
manual. Please DO NOT ignore this important step, or the system will not
work as well as it has been designed to. With the correct radio flash, the
system can play at high levels with virtually no audible distortion.
The installation will be done in 3 steps.
STEP 1: CHANGING OUT THE FRONT SPEAKERS
STEP 2: INSTALLATION OF THE AMPLIFIER
STEP 3: ROUTING THE POWER HARNESS

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Step #1: Remove the bikes seat, and undo the main (+ and -) connectors from the
battery. Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside.
Refer to a service manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a
towel on the front fender can help prevent scratches or “dings” from
dropped tools or fasteners, etc.
Step #2: Grill Trim Ring Selection:
In the box, you will see that the metal mesh grill with tweeter in it is
sitting in the black trim ring. If you turn this over, you will see “tabs” in
the metal mesh used to secure the mesh to the black trim ring have not
been folded over. These were left unfolded in case you want to remove
the mesh, and have your black trim rings customized, or if you want to
place the metal mesh in the chrome trim rings that also came in the box.
No matter which trim rings you choose, the metal mesh grill with tweeter
must be properly “seated” in the trim ring and all 6 metal mesh “tabs”
must be folded over before proceeding.
Step #3: Removing the Factory Grills:
Each factory grill will be removed from the inner fairing by prying up
on them. Start with your fingers, but if you must use a tool, please use
something with a 90° end being extra careful not to scratch your inner
fairing...especially if its painted! On the back of each grill, there is a
rubber gasket and 2 white clips which will be removed from the factory
grills and re-installed on the Wild Boar Audio grills.
NOTE: The factory clips must be removed carefully!
Using your thumbnails or a flat edge under each side,
gently pry the 2 ends apart (as per the image) and pull
up to release each clip from the stock grill. If you put a
flat edge under one end only, the clip cannot release
and you have a very good chance of breaking the clip.
SPEAKER INSTALLATION
section 1

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Step #4: Removing the Factory Speakers:
With the grills off the bike remove the 4 screws that secure the factory
speaker to bike. Gently pull up each factory speaker so it’s coming
away from the bike and carefully remove the speaker wires. Put the
factory speakers aside.
Step #5: Installing the Wild Boar Audio WBC 1654 RG Speaker:
Take a Wild Boar Audio woofer and attach the factory speaker wires
noting they will only go on one way. The #1 reason for tech relat-
ed calls is loose wires at the speaker which is why we designed the
self-locking clips on the speaker frame. You will need to “maneuver”
the new woofer into place so it will go past the grill opening on the
inner fairing, noting it will go in without force. In order to make the
speaker install properly, the speaker wires must be oriented so they
are closest to the top of the inner fairing (12 o’clock position). When
installed correctly, the 2 small wires that go from the back of the speaker
and “through” the speakers ring will also be in the 12 o’clock position.
Reinstall the factory screws to secure the woofers in place making
sure the speaker is flush to the mounting plane of the factory speaker
cabinet.
Step #6: Installing the Wild Boar Audio Speaker Grills:
Before proceeding, please MAKE SURE all 6 metal mesh tabs on the
speaker grills have been folded over to properly secure the grill mesh
to the trim ring! There is a small 2 wire plug for the tweeter on each
grill that will get plugged into the mating connector on the wire coming
through front of the speakers ring. When these are plugged together,
there will be an extra length of wire. In the kit there are foam strips that
are “peel and stick”. You can use the peel and stick foam that came
with the kit to secure the extra length of wire on top of the factory
speaker cabinet. The goal is to make sure this extra length of wire does
not fall in front of the woofer and rattle against the woofer as it’s
playing. With the extra wire out of the way, the new grill will press into
the inner fairing and “click” into its final position.

AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION
section 2
Before proceeding, please locate the points in the fairing identified by the letters
in Figure 1.1.
A= mounting points for Headlight assembly
B= Wire passage from fairing to bike
C= Brake side speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
D= Clutch Side Speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
Step #1: Out of the box, the amplifier comes
on a mounting plate used for Street
Glide and Ultra fairings only. Sepa-
rate the amp from the plate and put
that plate aside. As shown in Fig 1.2,
locate the Road Glide specific plate
and attach the amp to the plate so it
is in the same orientation as shown.
When installed, the amp will be on
the back of the plate. We do this so
it is much easier to put a second amp
later if you choose. The second amp
sticks to the front of the plate.
A
B
CD
Figure 1.1
Figure 1.2
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Step #2: Locate the power harness for the amplifier. One end has ring terminals
and a fuse and the other has a 2 pin connector. Using Fig 1.1 on Page
4 for reference, you want to run the “ring terminal end” of the power
harness through “B”. Position it so the 2 pin power connector is
accessible in the inner fairing and the slack can be adjusted later in the
installation. Just in front of the tank, there is a structure that attaches the
fairing to the frame of the bike. The power harness will pass through
this structure and exit through the rectangular opening where the factory
harness also exits the structure on the BRAKE side of the bike. Note: it
can be easier to pass the wire harness through the rectangular opening
if you open the fuse holder and remove the fuse before passing the wire
harness. You can run the power harness under the gas tank if you are
comfortable removing the gas tank, or you can run the power harness
up and over the tank but under the chrome console.
With the power and ground wires in the vicinity of the battery, move to step #3
WITHOUT connecting amp wires to battery.
Step #3: Locate the “audio in” harness which has yellow and green heat shrink
on it, and plug its 8 pin plug into “audio in” on the side of the amp.
Locate the amps “front out” harness which has blue and brown heat
shrink on it, and plug it into the 4 pin BLACK pigtail coming out the side
of the amp.
Step #4: Using Fig 1.1 on page 4 for reference, locate the 4 bolts around “B”
and remove the top left and top right bolts (only). Also using Fig 1.1 on
page 4 for reference, you will see 2 large factory harnesses between
“A” and “B”. You will have to wiggle the amp on the plate into place
around these harnesses so that the holes on the “legs” at the bottom of
the plate line up with the holes where the factory bolts around “B” were.
With the plate in position, reinstall the factory bolts around “B” which
will secure the amp on its plate to the bike.

Step #5: As shown by “C” in Figure 1.1, on the brake side of the bike, there is a
2 pin connector with pink/pink with black stripe wires going through it.
The plug is close to where the wires enter the brake side speaker
cabinet. Separate the connector so there are 2 plugs. From the amp,
take the2 pin plug with blue heat shrink and install it into the plug going
into the brake side speaker cabinet. Take the 2 pin plug with brown
heat shrink and install it into the plug going into the clutch side speaker
cabinet.
Step #6: As shown by “D” in Figure 1.1, on the clutch side of the bike, there is
a 2 pin connector with pink/pink with black stripe wires going through
it. The plug is close to where the wires enter the clutch side speaker
cabinet. Separate the connector so you now have 2 plugs. From the
amp’s input connector, take the 2 pin plug with green heat shrink and
install it into the mating plug on the brake side of the bike. Also from
amp’s input connector, take the 2 pin plug with yellow heat shrink and
install it into the mating plug on the clutch side of the bike.
Step #7: Attach the red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal and the black
wire to the negative (-) battery terminal. The factory battery wires are
also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and ground
wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative (black) first.
When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is
normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifiers charging up.
Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure the speakers are working.
Now is a good time to “clean up” and secure the wires using the supplied zip ties.
For best possible FM reception, DO NOT attach any of the amplifier’s wiring to any
factory antenna wires. Doing so will hurt your radios ability to receive FM signals!
PLEASE READ SECTION 3 OF THIS
MANUAL TO INSURE PROPER
OPERATION OF YOUR NEW SYSTEM
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This section is VITAL to the correct operation
of the system, please make sure you read
and understand it, or contact us!
The correct flash required for this system is the exact same one that comes in FLH
Ultra Classics (non CVO Models). The factory refers to this flash as “upper fairing/
rear pods, zero amps”. We understand that the flash we say to use indicates “zero
amps” and that there is an amp in this system. The flash we indicate to use gives
the correct sound and audio levels from the radio for the system to work correctly.
You can also visit a “Techno Research” dealer as they can flash the radio as well.
Techno Research dealers have a “Wild Boar Audio” Flash built in to their systems
which is identical to the required factory flash. You can look for a Techno Research
dealer by using the web link https://technoresearch.info/tuning-centers-map/
There is a 3 position “Radio Flash Selector” on the side of the amp marked A,B,
and C. In all cases, having the correct radio flash installed, and having the “Radio
Flash Selector” set to “A” is the preferred setting!
There is a 3 position “Radio Flash Selector” on the side of the amp marked
A,B, and C. In all cases, having the correct radio flash installed, and
having the “Radio Flash Selector” set to “A” is the preferred setting!
POSITION “A”
For “Non CVO” 15+ Road Glide or Road Glide Special, with the correct “front
and rear speakers without amp” or “Wild Boar Audio” flash installed, the switch
needs to be in the “A” position.
POSITION “B”
If you have installed this system but cannot get to a dealer for the correct flash,
put the switch to position B. In all cases, having the correct radio flash
installed, and having the “Radio Flash Selector” set to “A” is the
preferred setting!
POSITION “C”
Position C is there for any changes the factory may introduce in the future, and
SHOULD NOT be used for this installation.
RADIO FLASH INFORMATION
section 3

1) Many users will store music on a hand held type player and use that as the
music source for the bikes audio. PLEASE NOTE: If you “borrow” music
files from certain sites, they typically sound VERY POOR. Using a good
quality file will only make the system sound as good as it can!
2) Many users will take advantage of the convenience of “streaming” their music
to the radio using Bluetooth®. It should be noted that it was found that
plugging in the music device using the radios USB cord sounds better and
plays louder than using Bluetooth®.
3) Assuming you have the correct flash and the 3 position switch on the side of
the amp is set to “A”, we suggest having the bass on the radio set to 1 or 2
bars above the center position, and the treble set to one or 2 bars below the
center position. If you have bass heavy music, and are hearing some “break
up” there is nothing wrong with lowering the bass control on the radio till
everything sounds “right”. You can set the bikes AVC (Automatic Volume
Control) however you like it, although we found “3 bars” works best.
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Final installation Notes
Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel
to each extreme side making sure any wiring is
not impeding the steering of the motorcycle.
Failure to do so can result in serious
injury or death!
Re-install the fairing and the system is now ready to enjoy!

wiring guide
WBA 400.2R QUICK REFERENCE WIRING GUIDE
(IF ONLY AMP ON BIKE)
Note: From the factory, the plugs at indicators “A” and “B”, and “C”
and “D” are plugged together but get separated for this install.
A Amplifiers Clutch Side Input (Yellow Heatshrink)
B Amplifiers Clutch Side Output (Brown Heatshrink)
C Amplifiers Brake Side Input (Green Heatshrink)
D Amplifiers Brake Side Output (Blue Heatshrink)
E Amplified Output “Pigtail” on Amp
F Amplifiers Bypass Output For Adding More Amps Later
G In Line Fuse On Supplied Power Harness
H Amplifiers Main Power/Ground
This Page Is For Quick Reference Only. To Avoid Damage
To Your System, Please Read Entire Manual!
H
G
F
E
BD
AC
CLUTCH
SIDE
SPEAKER
BRAKE
SIDE
SPEAKER
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Wild Boar Audio branded speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to the
original purchaser. Wild Boar Audio branded amplifiers are warranted for a
period of 3 years to the original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all
warranty claims. Please contact Hogtunes head office for all warranty claims.
Products found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or
replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
Hogtunes/Wild Boar Audio’s complete warranty policy is available on our website
at www.hogtunes.com
What Is Not Covered:
1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of products.
2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes, Inc.
3) Subsequent damage to any other components.
4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Wild Boar Audio dealer.
5) Damage to products from an accident or collision.
6) Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.
7) Damage caused by incorrect factory radio “re-flash” and amp combination
8) Damage to inbound warranty product due to improper packing.
IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please ll out the
form in the Warranty section of our website www.hogtunes.com.
Valid claims will have a Return Authorization
Number (RA#) generated which MUST appear on the outside
of the box when it arrives to our oces.
Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!
warranty information

Wild Boar Audio products will play much louder than the
Original Equipment, which can be a distraction to
the rider and/or passenger. Please use caution
when adjusting or playing your stereo
at high volume, especially in trac.
You are a valued customer so please:
Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!
www.wildboaraudio.com
www.hogtunes.com
Version 1.1