Hogtunes Quadcast QC475-RM User manual

Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes QC475-RM “Quadcast” Amplifier for
2014+ FLH and FLT model bikes. Since positive word of mouth is the best way
to grow our business, we want your new amplifier to work as well as it was
designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help.
The QC475-RM amplier is a Class D design. It should be
understood that ALL Class D ampliers, regardless of brand, cause a
reduction in FM reception. QC475-RM features a proprietary circuit
design called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference
Technology) that Hogtunes believes gives the BEST FM reception
available for any Class D Amplier designed for a motorcycle. If you
add a 2nd or 3rd model amplier to your system, reduction of FM
reception is increased and is considered normal. Hogtunes understands
that some riders prefer the cosmetics of in fairing antennas, however it
should be noted that NOTHING works as well as the factory antenna.
If FM is an important part of your riding experience, we strongly advise
against the use of any in fairing type antenna!
IMPORTANT RADIO REFLASH INFO
ULTRA, ULTRA TRIKE, STREET GLIDE AND ROAD GLIDE MODELS:
This amp was designed to work with the factory radio so NO radio reflash is
required.
ROAD GLIDE ULTRA MODELS - From a sonic point of view, Road Glide
Ultra has the correct flash, however, the factory flash in Road Glide Ultra
makes the radio play considerably QUIETER than it could. Less signal out from
the radio means less signal going into QC475-RM, and sadly, less volume
from the system. If you install this system without a reflash, it will sound great,
but will NOT reach its potential volume. A radio reflash by a Techno Research
dealer is required to make this system play to its full volume potential. An
OEM Dealer reflash will not “fix” this, as the OEM flash looks at the bikes VIN
and will re-install the same “quiet” flash. To find a Techno Research dealer
near you, please visit: http://technoresearch.com/index.php/tuning-centers
or CALL US!
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Hogtunes Contact Information
Email: [email protected]
USA Tel: [phone] - Canada Tel: [phone]

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Figure 1.1 - The white circle shows the new
location for GPS Antenna if your bike came
factory equipped with this feature.
Step #1: Remove the seat and both wires (+ and -) from the battery.
Step #2: Remove your outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside. Refer
to a service manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a towel
or something similar on the front fender can help prevent “dings” or
scratches from dropped tools or fasteners. Expletives will also be kept to
a minimum!
FOR ULTRA, ULTRA TRIKE AND STREET GLIDE MODELS
Note: For Ultra, Ultra Trike ,and Street Glide Models the supplied “hex head”
bolts are not used in this installation
Step #1: Over top of the radio,
pull up to release each
wire harness from the
black plate via the factory
“Christmas Tree”
fasteners. If your bike
has a factory GPS, the
small square antenna will
need to be relocated just
behind the voltmeter as
shown in Fig 1.1.
Step #2: Remove the four factory
T-20 “Torx” screws that
go through the top of the
black plate and into the top of the radio. Set these screws aside
for now.
Step #3: Sit the main amplifier plate over top of the radio noting the 4 holes
in the plate will line up with the 4 holes left by the factory screws just
removed. The factory screws will now go through the main mounting
plate, through the black plate over top of the radio, into the top of the
radio.
Step #4: Locate the Velcro® that came in the box and stick it to the bottom plate
of the amp. You can now “stick” the amp to the mounting plate just
installed so the connectors on the end of the amp are easily accessible.
GETTING STARTEDGETTING STARTED
MOUNTING THE AMPMOUNTING THE AMP

FOR ROAD GLIDE ULTRA AND ROAD GLIDE MODELS
Note: For Road Glide Ultra and Road Glide models, the amplifier mounting plate
and supplied Velcro are not used in this installation.
Step#1: Looking down on top of the radio, you will see 2 “hex head” fasteners
on each side that secure the radio to the black plate the radio sits on.
Using Fig 1.2 for reference, remove the left and right hex head screws
closest to the back of the radio and put aside.
IMPORTANT: When removing the factory bolts, rubber spacers may or
may not come out with these factory bolts. The rubber spacers MUST BE
put in their proper position before moving to Step 2.
Step#2: Locate the 2 SUPPLIED “hex head” bolts that came in the box. Using
Fig 1.2 for reference, slide the amp in under the radio. When correctly
in place, the supplied “hex head” bolts can go back in where the
factory ones were removed, and thread into the holes on top of the
amp. We strongly advise putting these bolts in with hand tools till they
are snug and the amp does not rattle. Do Not Over Tighten and Do Not
Use “Thread lock” material.
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Figure 1.2
The arrows show
the factory fasteners
that need to be
removed. The image
also shows how the
amplifier sits when
correctly installed.

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Locate “the Rear Speaker Select switch as shown in Fig 1.3. Please read the op-
tions below and set the switch to the correct position for your configuration.
1) If you have the rear channels of the amplifier powering rear speakers in
Ultra, Ultra Trike, or Road Glide Ultra rear “pods”, or speakers in fairing
lower glove boxes, MAKE SURE the switch is in the “A” position.
2) If the rear channels of the amplifier are powering 6”x9” speakers, or
LARGER than 6.5” speakers, put the switch to “B” position.
Locate the “Fader/No Fader” switch as shown in Fig 1.3.“ This amplifier gets its
music from the radio via the factory speaker wires. Street Glides and Road Glides,
have factory speaker wires for the front speakers only. Ultra, Ultra Trike and Road
Glide Ultras have an “active” fader control in the radio that allow the rider to
control the volume levels between the front and rear speakers. If you have an
Ultra/Trike/Road Glide Ultra and want the amp to run front and rear speakers,
you will put the switch to the “Fader” position. This will also work if you have a
“non-Ultra” and have added rear speakers, factory rear speaker harness and the
fader function has been activated by the dealer. In all other cases, the switch will
go to the “No Fader” position. This allows all channels of the amp to be driven
equally with no fader. This is perfect if your adding front speakers, and either
speakers in fairing lowers, or speakers in the saddlebag lids. This will also be the
position to choose if you are using this amp to run front speakers and lower fairing
speakers on an Ultra where a separate amp or radio power will drive the rears.
ADJUSTING SWITCHES ON THE AMP
“FADER/NO FADER”“FADER/NO FADER”
ADJUSTING SWITCHES ON THE AMP
“REAR SPEAKER SELECT”“REAR SPEAKER SELECT”
Figure 1.3
Fader/No
Fader Switch
Rear Speaker
Select Switch

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Step #1: Locate the main power harness that came in the box and plug it into the
matching “pig tail” coming out of the amp.
Step #2: Locate the harness marked “Front Output” and insert the 4 pin plug into
the “front out” socket on the amp. Locate the harness marked “Input”
and install the rectangular 8 pin plug into the front/rear input socket
on the amp. The bypass out plug is for future system expansion. See
Page 10.
Step #3: Separate the molex plugs that go directly into each speaker cabinet
in the fairing. The plug from the amp with the blue/black wires will
install into the factory plug that goes directly into the brake side speaker
cabinet. The plug from the amp with green/black wires will install into
the factory connector that originally plugged directly into the brake side
speaker cabinet (has pink/pink black wires).
Step #4: The plug with the brown/black wires will install into the factory plug
that goes directly into the clutch side speaker cabinet. The plug with
yellow/black wires will install into the factory connector that originally
plugged directly into the clutch side speaker cabinet (has pink/pink
black wires).
WIRING THE AMPWIRING THE AMP ALL MODELS
QUICK REFERENCE WIRING
(When Powering Fronts and Rears On Ultra Models)
AInput Clutch Side
B Output Clutch Side
C Input Brake Side
D Output Brake Side
E Speaker Output
F Bypass Out (Not used)
G Speaker Output
H Rear Input
I Rear Speaker Harness
J Rear Input/Output
K Battery Connection

CHOOSING THE CORRECT HARNESS FOR THE “REAR OUT”
ON THE AMPLIFIER:
Depending on what speakers the rear channels of QC475-RM will power, you
may or may not use the supplied rear harness included with the amp. Please see
below and choose the correct option for your installation.
If you’re installing this amplier on an Ultra/Trike/Road Glide
Ultra where the radio’s fader will control the volume between the
front and rear speakers, you WILL use the supplied rear harness.
Locate the long “rear” harness in the kit. You will see that one end of this harness
has 2 x four pin connectors. One of these white 4 pin plugs will plug into the “rear
out” on the amp. The second 4 pin plug marked “rear in” on the rear speaker
harness goes to the plug marked “rear in” on the input harness noting they will
only go in one way. The balance of the rear harness installation is covered in the
“Routing the power and rear speaker harness” section later on in the manual
If you are using the rear channels of this amplier to power
Hogtunes branded lower speakers kits or saddle bag lids.
Hogtunes lower kits and lid kits include the correct harness that will plug into the
“rear out” on the amplifier. The manuals for the kits will explain how to run the
wire harnesses on the bike.
If you are using the rear channels of this amplier to power other
brands of lowers speakers or lids.
Locate the supplied short “ACC” Harness. It has a 4 pin plug that will plug into
the rear out on the amplifier, and 4 labeled wires that will allow you to make the
harness you need to go to other speakers on the bike.
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CHOOSING CORRECTCHOOSING CORRECT
HARNESS FOR REAR OUTHARNESS FOR REAR OUT

Step #1: The power/ground harness will pass under the inner fairing where the
main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the bike. The
harness that will run the rear speakers will pass under the inner fairing
on the clutch side of the bike. Loosen the tank’s “chrome console” and
run wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank’s chrome
console. There is a provision on the front of the console for wires to
pass under it allowing the power harness to run on the brake side of
the filler spout and the rear speaker harness to run on the clutch side of
the spout.
NOTE: Although not necessary, the power and rear harnesses can go under the
gas tank if you choose to remove and re-install the tank. With the tank removed
you will see a factory wire channel where wires pass along the bike’s frame.
Removing the top of the channel will allow for the power and rear speaker harness
to be safely run under the tank to the battery area. When reinstalling the top of the
channel take care not to pinch any wires along the edges of the channel.
When correctly installed, the power and ground wires are the right length to
connect to the battery. The rear harness will continue past the battery on the clutch
side. When wiring lid speakers the wires will end just behind the battery. Please
see the install manual for the lid kit for further instructions on finalizing the wiring.
Figure 1.4 - Stock harness
passing from fairing to just in
front of tank (Arrow A). Cable
tying the amp’s power harness
to the main bike harness just
in front of the tank (Arrow
B). Allows the power harness
to go up towards the tank’s
chrome console easier and
makes for a cleaner install.
AA
BBBA
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ROUTING POWER & REARROUTING POWER & REAR
SPEAKER HARNESSSPEAKER HARNESS

If you are using the rear harness for Ultra/Trike/Road Glide Ultra:
Step #1: Just behind the threaded insert that holds the seat bolt on the back
fender, you will see a large factory wire plug. One side of the plug
has wires that go to each rear speaker pod. Separate this large factory
plug. One plug from the Hogtunes rear harness will plug into each side
of the factory plug just separated. They will only go together one way.
Step #2: Attach the amp’s red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal and the
amp’s black wire to the negative (-) battery terminal. The factory battery
wires are also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and
ground wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative first.
When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is
normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifier charging up.
Step #3: Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure all four
speakers are working. If on an Ultra/Trike/Road Glide Ultra where the
amp is powering front and rear speakers in stock locations, make sure
the radio’s fader control is adjusting the volume between front and rear
speakers. If not, double check the “Fader/No Fader” switch.
The QC475-RM amplifier “senses” when to turn on when it sees music from
the bike’s radio. If the bikes battery is “soft” there may not be enough signal
from the radio to turn the amp on which is normal and by design!
In the event your battery is soft, we want the bike to be able to start,
so we purposely made it so the amp cannot turn on unless sufficient power is
going into the amp from the radio. Starting the bike and let charge up,
or bike or charging the battery will fix this.
Step #4: Re-install the seat making sure the amplifier’s “+” and “-” connectors are
positioned in such away so they will not bend or break when the rider’s
weight is on the seat.
This is the best time to take a few minutes to “clean up” the wiring and secure
using supplied zip-ties.
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Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel to each extreme
side making sure any wiring is not impeding the steering of the
motorcycle. Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death!
Re-install the fairing and your system is now ready to enjoy!

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Hogtunes QC475-RM Amplier
Rated Power at 2 Ohms:....... 75 Watts x 4 Channels
Fuse: .................................. 30 amp
Amplifier Topology: .............. Class D with R.E.M.I.T.
“BYPASS OUT” BLUE PLUG - The blue plug on the amp is referred to as the
“bypass out” and can be used to easily expand the system. The blue plug “is” the
radios built in power. This means you can have the amp power 4 speakers, and
easily use the radios built in power to power a 3rd set of speakers.
The bypass out can also be used to easily send music from the QC475-RM amp
to a second Hogtunes amp ( model REV 225-RM) This means the QC475-RM will
power 4 speakers and the 2nd amp will power 2 more speakers possibly in
fairing lowers or lids. Hogtunes REV 225-RM also has a bypass out which means
you can amplify 3 pairs of speakers, and have the radio power a 4th set. For all
FLH Model AND FLTR Models, this is bolt in/plug and play!
SYSTEM EXPANSIONSYSTEM EXPANSION
1) Set your “Automatic Volume Control” (AVC) to 3 bars. After extensive on-road
testing, we found that this AVC position works and sounds best. Your new
amplifier has been specifically set-up for this radio setting.
2) Your Hogtunes system is designed specifically for a motorcycle at speed.
Exhaust noise and wind noise have been taken into careful consideration in
how your system performs. How your new system sounds in a driveway or
garage is radically different from how it will sound at highway speeds.
Although your system was set-up with a factory radio, with its bass and treble
controls in the middle position, if you feel the need to make adjustments please
do so (carefully) at your normal cruising speed.
ADJUSTING SYSTEMADJUSTING SYSTEM
PLEASE
READ
TECH SPECSTECH SPECS