Hogtunes Wild Boar Audio WBA 800.4SG KIT User manual

INSTALLATION MANUAL
FOR USE ON 15+ ROAD GLIDE MODELS
IMPORTANT! A Radio “Re-Flash” Is Strongly Encouraged
Before Proceeding. Please Read Manual For More Information
WBA 800.4SG KITWBA 800.4SG KITWBA 800.4rG KIT

Wild Boar Audio Contact Information
Email: [email protected]
Tel: [phone]
Thank you for your purchase of Wild Boar Audio’s WBA 800.4RG KIT for 15+
Road Glide Models. We want your kit to work as well as it was designed to, so
if you have any questions or concerns, please email: [email protected] or call
us during regular business hours (EST) at (705)-719-6361. If you still need help,
please consider a professional installation by your dealer.
1) In order for your new amps to work properly, your radio must have the
proper “flash” installed. Different radio flashes are used by the “MoCo”
based on the factory audio system that comes on different model bikes.
Re-flashes can be done at any OEM dealer, or a “Techno Research”
dealer. You can find the nearest Techno Research dealer by visiting:
https://technoresearch.info/dealer-map
The required flash to make these amps work best is called “front and rear
speakers without amp” and will give highest quality sound and best reliabil-
ity. It should be noted that non CVO Ultra models and Ultra Trike models
come from the factory with the required “front and rear speakers without
amp” flash. If using the Techno Research unit, use the Wild Boar Audio
flash built into that system.” Radio’s fader will not work without
correct radio re-flash installed.
This manual is written in 3 major sections:
Section 1: Front Speaker Installation
Section 2: Speaker Lids/6x9’s
Section 2: Amplifier Installation
IMPORTANT: Read the next page before installing!
DO NOT PAINT THE 6”x9” TWEETER ASSEMBLY HOUSING!
The tweeter is permanently attached to the tweeter assembly
to make sure nothing, such as paint, obstructs the
BUILT IN DRAINAGE. In the event of warranty, Hogtunes replaces
the tweeter assembly as one piece, and therefore
assumes zero responsibility for paint!
2

GETTING STARTEDGETTING STARTED
3
We strongly suggest following the order of this manual. Wire harnesses need to be
run from the front of the bike to the back, and from the back to the front. Following
the manual as its written will help keep installation time to a minimum.
The supplied WBA 400.2R’s are powerful amplifiers made to work with 4 Ω(ohm)
speakers only (same as supplied in this kit).
The amplifier’s have built in protection and will turn itself off if your charging
system/battery goes below 10.5 volts.
In very high heat situations the WBA 400.2R’s will shut themselves off before they
damage themselves. Once cooled down to safe operating temperatures, it will turn
itself back on.
The WBA 400.2R’s are a Class D design. It should be understood that
ALL Class D amplifiers, REGARDLESS OF BRAND, cause a reduction in
FM reception. The WBA 400.2R’s feature a proprietary circuit design
called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference Technology)
that Wild Boar Audio believes gives the BEST FM reception
available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle.
If you add additional amplifiers to your system, reduction
of FM reception is increased and is considered normal.
Wild Boar Audio understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics of
in fairing antennas, however it should be noted that NOTHING
works as well as the factory antenna. If FM is an important part of
your riding experience, we strongly advise against the use of
any in fairing type antenna!
BEFOREBEFORE
GETTING STARTEDGETTING STARTED
Remove the bike’s seat, and undo the main (+ and -) connectors from the battery.
Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside. Refer to a service
manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a towel on the front fender can
help prevent scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners, etc.
GETTING STARTED
BEFORE
GETTING STARTED

4
Section 1
FRONT SPEAKER INSTALLATIONFRONT SPEAKER INSTALLATIONFRONT SPEAKER INSTALLATION
Step #1: Grill Trim Ring Selection:
In the box, you will see that the metal mesh grill with tweeter in it is
sitting in the black trim ring. If you turn this over, you will see “tabs” in
the metal mesh used to secure the mesh to the black trim ring have not
been folded over. These were left unfolded in case you want to remove
the mesh, and have your black trim rings customized, or if you want to
place the metal mesh in the chrome trim rings that also came in the box.
No matter which trim rings you choose, the metal mesh grill with tweeter
must be properly “seated” in the trim ring and all 6 metal mesh “tabs”
must be folded over before proceeding.
Step #2: Removing the Factory Grills:
Each factory grill will be removed from the inner fairing by prying up
on them. Start with your fingers, but if you must use a tool, please use
something with a 90° end being extra careful not to scratch your inner
fairing...especially if its painted! On the back of each grill, there is a
rubber gasket and 2 white clips which will be removed from the factory
grills and re-installed on the Wild Boar Audio grills.
Step #4: Removing the Factory Speakers:
With the grills off the bike remove the 4 screws that secure the factory
speaker to bike. Gently pull up each factory speaker so it’s coming
away from the bike and carefully remove the speaker wires. Put the
factory speakers aside.
Step #5: Installing the Wild Boar Audio WBC 1654 RG Speaker:
Take a Wild Boar Audio woofer and attach the factory speaker
wires noting they will only go on one way. The #1 reason for tech
related calls is loose wires at the speaker which is why we designed
the self-locking clips on the speaker frame. You will need to “maneuver”
NOTE: The factory clips must be removed carefully!
Using your thumbnails or a flat edge under each side,
gently pry the 2 ends apart (as per the image) and pull
up to release each clip from the stock grill. If you put a
flat edge under one end only, the clip cannot release
and you have a very good chance of breaking the clip.

5
the new woofer into place so it will go past the grill opening on the
inner fairing, noting it will go in without force. In order to make the
speaker install properly, the speaker wires must be oriented so they
are closest to the top of the inner fairing (12 o’clock position).
When installed correctly, the 2 small wires that go from the back of
the speaker and “through” the speakers ring will also be in the 12
o’clock position. Reinstall the factory screws to secure the woofers in
place making sure the speaker is flush to the mounting plane of the
factory speaker cabinet.
Step #6: Installing the Wild Boar Audio Speaker Grills:
Before proceeding, please MAKE SURE all 6 metal mesh tabs on the
speaker grills have been folded over to properly secure the grill mesh
to the trim ring! There is a small 2 wire plug for the tweeter on each
grill that will get plugged into the mating connector on the wire coming
through front of the speakers ring. When these are plugged together,
there will be an extra length of wire. In the kit there are foam strips that
are “peel and stick”. You can use the peel and stick foam that came
with the kit to secure the extra length of wire on top of the factory
speaker cabinet. The goal is to make sure this extra length of wire does
not fall in front of the woofer and rattle against the woofer as it’s
playing. With the extra wire out of the way, sit the new grills in posi-
tion on the fairing, but don’t press them all the way in yet. These block
access to screws used to reattach the outer fairing later on in this install.
NOTE: The speaker’s crossovers have a light bulb in line with the
tweeter that acts as a current sensitive resistor. If the speaker is played
at high volume, the light bulb will start to illuminate which reduces
power to the tweeter. This has been very carefully designed
to help prevent tweeter failure.

6
This manual assumes you have already removed the woofer, tweeter and grill, had
the lids painted, and you are now installing the new lids on your bike.
Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable working surface. For
obvious reasons, blankets etc. on your work surface will help protect the paint.
Step #1: The white circle in Fig 1.1 above is where a 3/4” (19mm) hole will
be drilled. This hole is where the supplied Hogtunes rubber grommet
will go to allow the lids speaker wire to pass from the saddlebag. We
strongly suggest putting masking tape over the painted
area to be drilled. We also suggest starting with a small
bit, and gradually working your way up to the 3/4”
(19mm) hole. Drilling the hole with the lid still on is recommended!
Step #2: The supplied grommet in Fig 1.2 is “split” to make the install much
easier once the wire is in the bag. The white circle in the picture shows
a “plug” that can easily be removed. If the only wire you have going
into your saddlebag is the speaker wire, leave the plug in place. If
you have a second wire for such things as lighting etc., removing the
plug from the grommet will allow the second wire to also pass without
having to drill additional holes in your saddlebag.
Do Not Use “Thread Lock” or “Screw Glue” of
Any Kind As It Destroys Plastic And Will Cause
Part Failure NOT Covered By Warranty!
Figure 1.1 Figure 1.2
Section 2
SPEAKER LID INSTALLATIONSPEAKER LID INSTALLATIONSPEAKER LID INSTALLATION

7
Step #3: Disassembling The Factory Lid
As you disassemble your factory lid, please make note of what screws
came from where as they will be re-used. Open the factory lid and you
will see 2 “T15” torx screws on the “bag side” of the cloth tether that
holds the lid to the bag. Remove these 2 screws, move the cloth tether
out of the way, and you will see 2 more of the same screws which also
need to be removed. The lid is now free from the bag. Remove the 2
screws that hold the “key lock” to the factory lid. The chrome panel
with the reflector built in comes off the factory lid by removing the 3
screws right next to the key lock. At its seam, the factory foam gasket
needs to be peeled up enough to allow the rest of the hinge mechanism
to be removed from the factory lid. There are 2x “T20” torx screws
that hold the balance of the hinge mechanism to the plastic of the lid.
Remove these screws and put hinge mechanism aside.
Step #4: Remove the “T15” screw that holds the opening handle in place and
pull the handle away from the factory lid. Remove the last 4x “T15”
screws securing the large latching mechanism to the underside of the
factory lid. This entire mechanism is now removed. Put your factory lid
aside.
Step #5: The large latching mechanism just removed will now be installed into
the Hogtunes lid using the factory screws just removed. You will need
to jostle the mechanism gently to get it in place. As shown above (Fig
1.3), the 4 main screws on the mechanism are the ones to do first. In-
stall the factory handle to the new lid using the factory screw. Next, the
2 screws will go back in on the hinge side followed by 3 screws that
secure the chrome cover with reflector. Do not put in the 2 screws that
hold the lock in place just yet.
Factory Latching
Mechanism Installed
in New Lid
(Lid Shown In White
For Contrast)
Black Phillips
Head Screw for Grill
Goes Here
Gasket Seam Goes Here
4 Main Screws Figure 1.3

8
Step #6: Before applying the supplied rubber gasket you will need to clean the
area the gasket will stick to. Use a mild cleaner such as 99% Isopropyl
alcohol, but nothing aggressive like acetone as acetone will destroy
the lid.
Step #7: Once the cleaner is completely dry, start applying the gasket so the
seam will be at the same point the factory gasket was as shown in Fig
1.3 on previous page. Don’t over stretch the gasket as you’re applying
it along straight passes, but at the same time, don’t allow it to “bunch
up” in the corners or the lids will not close properly. Make sure the
adhesive portion of the gasket is stuck to the bottom portion of the
trough all the way around. When you have the gasket all the way
around, you can expect to have some left over that can be carefully cut
off using a sharp knife or scissors. Once the gasket is applied and cut
to size, re install the 2 factory screws that hold the key lock in place.
Step #8: With the lid painted side up, sit the metal mesh grill into place using the
tongue on the grill and the groove on the lid. Install black Phillips screw
as shown in Fig 1.3 on previous page.
Step #9: Remove the 4 screws shown by the white circles in Fig 1.1 noting the
cloth tether will also come off at this time.
Step #10: Locate the metal plate with the passive crossover installed and sit it in
See gasket profile. The gasket needs to be applied so
the flat side is adjacent to the outside of the lid!
FLAT SIDE
Figure 1.1

place so it is oriented as shown in Fig 1.2. There is a specific brake
side and clutch side, so put the one in so all 4 holes in the plate line up
to the holes in the lid. Re-install the 4 screws noting that the tether will
sit on top of the crossovers mounting plate.
Step #11: Locate one of the tweeter assemblies (they are the same for brake and
clutch side) You will see a groove on the tweeter assembly that mates
to the lid. Locate the black gummy material that came in the kit and
take one strip, roll it in your fingers so its close to uniform thickness and
apply across entire groove highlighted by arrows in Fig 1.4 on the
bottom of this page.
Step #12: Press the tweeter assembly into the lid as shown in Fig 1.5. Take
another black gummy strip and tear it into approximately 3 equal strips
and roll each piece so you have 3 “balls”. Squish each ball into the
locations shown by the 3 black “dots” shown in Fig 1.5. The outside
ones are to help seal between the tweeter assembly and the lid itself.
The middle one helps make sure no water passes around the tweeter
wires. Adding the gummy material is an added failsafe to keep water
out and will be hidden once the 6”x9” woofer is installed.
9
Figure 1.2
Figure 1.4 Figure 1.5

10
Step #13: Take one of the 6x9” woofers (they are the same for brake and clutch
side) and sit it in the lid so the connector “end” of the speaker is closest
to the passive crossover. There is a bag in the lid box with 8 screws
that will be used to secure the woofer to each lid. Please note that the
2 woofer screws opposite to where the tweeter sits also secure the grill
to the lid. DO NOT Over tighten these! The 2 wires with connectors
that come out the one end of the passive crossover will now plug into
the connector on the 6x9” woofer, and the connector on the tweeter
and will only go on one way. Take the lid to the saddle bag, and using
the factory screws, secure the hinge on your lid to the bag. When
done, the other half of the cloth tether will attach to the
saddlebag using the factory screws.
Step #14: Included in the kit are adhesive “pads” that when attached, have
a provision to secure the wires in place using the supplied zip ties.
Split the adhesive pads into 2 equal groups—one group per bag.
You will need to do a “ghost run” of how you want to get the long
wire to the hole you drilled in the bag. In most cases, you will have
the wire go straight to the bottom of the saddle bag, go across the
bottom and then go straight back up towards the hole. When done,
you want the 2 pin black plug to hang outside the saddle bag a
minimum of 4” (10cm).
Once satisfied with the ghost run of wires, you will want to plan where
the adhesive pads will go, so that zip ties can secure the wires inside
the bag. Note: Before applying the pads, clean the plastic well using
99% isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone
(It will eat plastic).
With the 2 pin black plug hanging approximately 4” (10cm) out of the
bag, install the completed saddlebags onto the bike.

11
Section 3
AMPLIFIER INSTALLATIONAMPLIFIER INSTALLATIONAMPLIFIER INSTALLATION
IMPORTANT NOTE BEFORE PROCEEDING
Power wires and wires for rear speakers will travel from inner fairing
area towards the back of the bike. You can run wires in the factory
wire “chase” which is under the fuel tank along the frame, or up
and over fuel tank, but under the chrome console. If you are
comfortable removing and re-installing your bikes fuel tank, doing
it now can make running the wires much easier.
As the amplifiers come in each box, they are “stuck” to a mounting plate for use
in FLH (Batwing) model bikes. “Peel” the amps off each plate and put those plates
aside as they are not required for FLTR (Road Glide) installations.
As stated in the “Important Notes” at the beginning of this manual, the required
radio flash is called “front and rear speakers without amp” and is required for
your system to work properly. The “front and rear speakers without amp” flash is
what comes from the factory on all non CVO model Ultras. Please refer to these
important notes or CONTACT US if you have questions!
The image below will be one you can reference throughout the installation. Please
take a minute and familiarize yourself with the items listed below in the image.
A
B
CD
Figure 1.1
A = Mounting points for Headlight assembly
B = Wire passage from fairing to bike
C = Brake side speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
D = Clutch Side Speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)

12
Step #1: Locate the “splitter” power harness included in this kit. You will see one
end that has “ring terminals”, and the other end that “splits” and has
2 power connectors on it. Using Fig 1.1 on page 9 for reference, run
the “ring terminal end” of the power harness through “B”. Position it so
the 2 power connectors on the “split end” are accessible in the inner
fairing and the slack can be adjusted later in the installation. Just in front
of the tank, there is a structure that attaches the fairing to the frame of
the bike. The power harness will pass through this structure and exit
through the rectangular opening where the factory harness also exits the
structure on the BRAKE side of the bike. Note: it can be easier to pass
the wire harness through the rectangular opening
if you “open” the fuse holder and remove the fuse
before passing the wire harness. Once the ring
terminal end of the wire harness is through the
rectangular opening and most of the slack is taken
up, move to the next step.
Step #2: The lids came with a long harness with
2—2 pin plugs on one end, and a 4 pin
plug on the other. Plug the 2 pin plugs
into the wires now hanging outside the
saddlebags. The rest of this harness will
work its way towards the front of the bike.
The 4 pin plug will go through the rectan-
gular opening the power wires just came
through and must be accessible near the
power connectors of the “splitter” harness.
Step #3: Preparing the Plate
for the Amplifiers:
Locate the Road Glide Plate
that came in the kit (Fig 1.2).
Locate the 2 “hook and loop”
adhesive pieces included in the
kit and separate the halves of
each. With the plate at room
temperature or higher, apply
one side of the hook and loop
to the front of the plate as
shown by the black rectangle
also in Fig 1.2. Apply a
second piece on the back
of the plate as well.
Fig 1.2
Fig 1.3

13
Step #4: “Stick” one of the amplifiers to the BACK of the plate in the same
orientation as shown in Fig 1.3.
Step #5: Using Fig 1.1 on page 9 for reference, locate the 4 bolts on each
of the 4 corners around “B” and remove the ones on top left and top
right (only). It’s best to have the amp on the plate near you before
proceeding.
Step #6: Using Fig 1.1 on page 9 for reference, locate “C” and “D” which are
the 2 pin plugs on each front speaker’s cabinet that have pink and pink
with black stripe. These plugs attach the speaker’s wiring to the bike’s
wiring and need to be separated. Locate the “main input” harness and
insert its 8 pin plug into the “audio input” on the PRIMARY (back side)
amplifier. On this harness, take the plug with the green heat shrink on
the end and install it into the mating plug on the brake side of the bike.
Take the plug with the yellow heat shrink on the end and install it into the
mating plug on the clutch side of the bike.
Step #7: Locate a bag with a harness in it that says “Audio Out” and plug it
into the amplified out “pigtail” on the PRIMARY (back) amplifier. Take the
2 pin plug with the blue heat shrink on one end and install it into the
plug going into the brake side speaker cabinet. Take the 2 pin plug
with the brown heat shrink and install it into the plug going into the
clutch side speaker cabinet.
Take one of the 2 power connectors on the splitter harness, and plug it
into the power connector on the PRIMARY (back) amplifier.
IMPORTANT—Before you proceed, make sure you
understand the Radio Flash Selector info on the next
page. The PRIMARY (back side) Amp will be difficult
to adjust later if you don’t do this now!
IMPORTANT
In this install we refer to one amp as the “Primary” and the
other as the “Secondary.” The Primary always has the main
input harness go into it, and is always the amp that powers the
front fairing speakers. When installed, the amp on the
BACK SIDE of the plate is the PRIMARY AMPLIFIER.

14
Step #8: Using Fig 1.1 on page 9 for reference, you will see 2 large factory
harnesses between “A” and “B”. Wiggle the amp/plate into place
around these harnesses so that the holes on the “legs” at the bottom
of the plate line up with the holes where the factory bolts around “B”
were.
With the plate in position, reinstall the factory bolts around “B” which
will secure the PRIMARY amp on its plate to the bike.
Step #9: Take the Secondary amp and plug the second power connector into
that amp. There is a short harness with red/black and white/black
wires. It has a smaller 8 pin black plug, a 4 pin blue plug and a 4
pin “square” black plug that looks like a factory HD plug. Take the
“square” black plug on this harness and plug it into the mating plug
on your bike that has 4 light blue wires going into it. NOTE: The 4 pin
plug referred to was attached to your headlight before your headlight
came out. The small 8 pin black harness will plug into the “audio in”
on the Secondary (front) amp. There will be one blue 4 pin plug left
empty which is there for possible future system expansion. Plug the 4
pin plug on the lids harness into the “amplified output” pigtail on the
Secondary (front) amp.
Fig 1.4
Step #10: Attach the amp’s brown wire to the negative (-) battery terminal and the
amp’s red wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. The factory battery
wires are also re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and
ground wires, it is always a good practice to do the negative first.
When the positive connector touches the battery, some sparking is
normal. This is a function of the capacitors in the amplifiers charging up.

15
Step #11: Turn the stereo on and, at low volume, test to make sure all four
speakers are working.
Step #12 Re-install the seat making sure the amplifier’s “+” and “-” connectors are
positioned in such away so they will not bend or break when the rider’s
weight is on the seat.
This is the best time to take a few minutes to “clean up” the wiring
and secure using supplied zip-ties.
This section is VITAL to the correct operation
of the system, please make sure you read
and understand it, or contact us!
Step #1: This kit has been designed to give great sound with the radio bass and
treble controls in the middle position. Adjusting the bass and treble up
or down no more than 3 bars from center will give excellent and reliable
performance for most kinds of music. If you choose to exceed this
suggestion and play at high volume levels, you may damage your
system!
Step #2: The Wild Boar Audio 400.2R amplifiers are HIGH POWER amplifiers
specifically designed to work on the small charging system of a
motorcycle. DO NOT start your motorcycle with the radio past half
on the volume dial! When the start button is hit, all available current
goes to your bike’s starter which “starves” the amplifier and may cause
damage to your speakers!
SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel
to each extreme side making sure any wiring is
not impeding the steering of the motorcycle.
FAILURE TO DO SO CAN RESULT IN
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH!
Re-install the fairing and the system is now ready to enjoy!

Please Note: Having the correct flash
installed in your radio is the preferred
condition in all cases. The fader will NOT
work without the correct flash installed.
As explained at the beginning of this manual, in order for the system to work
properly you will need to have the correct “flash” in your radio. Visit an HD
dealer, or link:
https://technoresearch.info/dealer-map
Any dealer on that web page should be able to help as there is a “Wild Boar
Audio” setting in their system which makes it very easy. You either want to have
the correct flash installed, or verify that the correct flash is installed if you are not
sure. There is a 3 position switch “Radio Flash Selector” on the side of the amp
marked A, B, and C. Understanding the correct position for your application is
VITAL in the proper performance of this system.
If you are installing this amplifier on a Ultra Classic model, the factory flash that
came with your bike is the preferred “4 speaker no amp” flash. If your bike has
had no previous audio installed, you will not need a re-flash. If you have questions,
please call our tech support team before proceeding!
SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM ADJUSTMENTSYSTEM ADJUSTMENT
16

17
• The “Radio Flash Selector” switch positions have been carefully tailored to
“work around” the radio flashes, assuming you have the ‘front and rear speakers
without amp”, and assuming the speakers you are using can handle the power
of this amp. For clarity, all Wild Boar Audio speakers were tested thoroughly
with this amp.
• If you have your radio flashed to “front and rear speakers without amp” set the
Primary and Secondary amps to “A.”
• If you have installed the system on a Street Glide or Road Glide but cannot
get the radio re-flashed, set the Primary and Secondary amps to “B”. IN ALL
CASES, HAVING THE THE RADIO FLASHED TO “FRONT AND REAR
SPEAKERS WITHOUT AMP” AND AMPS SET TO “A” IS PREFERRED!
If you are not using Wild Boar Audio speakers, and your speakers sound like
they “can’t take the power”, putting both amps to the B position should make
things work better.
• In extreme cases only, depending on how the music you have on your USB
source was originally recorded, you may have distortion at around 60-70% of the
volume on your radio. If this is a common issue for you, and you want to have
“full swing” of the radios volume controls, setting the amps to C will fix the issue.
Final Installation Notes:
1) The Wild Boar Audio WBA 400.2R’s have been designed to give great sound
with the radio bass and treble controls in the middle position. Adjusting the
bass and treble up or down no more than 3 bars from center will give excellent
and reliable performance for most kinds of music. If you choose to exceed this
suggestion and play at high volume levels, you may damage your system!
2) The Wild Boar Audio WBA 400.2R amplifiers are a HIGH POWER amplifier
specifically designed to work on the small charging system of a motorcycle.
DO NOT start your motorcycle with the radio past
half on the volume dial! When the start button is hit, all available
current goes to your bikes starter which “starves” the amplifier and may cause
damage to your system!

18
QUICK REFERENCE WIRING DIAGRAM
A) Factory Connectors Between Radio and Speaker Cabinets (pink/pink with black stripe)
B) Primary Amp Brake Side Input (Green Heatshrink)
C) Primary Amp Clutch Side Input (Yellow Heatshrink)
D) Primary Amp Brake Side Output (Blue Heatshrink)
E) Primary Amp Clutch Side Output (Brown Heatshrink)
F) Primary Amp Amplified Output “Pigtail”
G) Primary Amp Bypass Out
H) Secondary Amp Bypass Out For Possible Future System Expansion
I) Input Adaptor With Factory Style Plug— Plugged In To Factory Connector Inside Fairing
J) Secondary Amp Amplified Output “Pigtail” for Lids
K) Main Power/Ground

Wild Boar Audio branded speakers are warranted for a period of 5 years to
the original purchaser. Wild Boar Audio branded amplifiers are warranted for a
period of 3 years to the original purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for all
warranty claims. Products found to be defective during the warranty period will
be repaired or replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Wild Boar
Audio’s sole discretion. Wild Boar Audio’s complete warranty policy is available
on the website at www.wildboaraudio.com
Please note: in the event of a warranty claim, if one of the 2 amplifiers that make
up WBA 800.4RG KIT fails, we will replace the defective amplifier ONLY!
What Is Not Covered:
1) Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of products.
2) Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes, Inc.
3) Subsequent damage to any other components.
4) Any product purchased from a non-authorized Wild Boar Audio dealer.
5) Damage to products from an accident or collision.
6) Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.
7) Reduction of FM reception.
8) Damage caused by incorrect factory radio “re-flash” and amp combination
9) Damage to inbound warranty product due to improper packing.
IMPORTANT: In the event of a warranty claim, please fill
out the form in the Warranty section of our website
www.wildboaraudio.com. Valid claims will have a Return
Authorization Number (RA#) generated which MUST appear
on the outside of the box when it arrives to our offices.
Goods Arriving Without An RA# Will Be Refused!
Please record your amplifier’s serial #’s here:
“PRIMARY AMP”
“SECONDARY AMP”
19
WARRANTY INFOWARRANTY INFOWARRANTY INFO

Version 1
www.hogtunes.com
Hogtunes products will play much louder than the
Original Equipment, which can be a distraction to
the rider and/or passenger. Please use caution
when adjusting, or playing your stereo
at high volume, ESPECIALLY IN TRAFFIC.
You are a valued customer so please:
Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!