Holley 700 Guide

PERFORMANCE CARBURETOR
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS
Read instructions thoroughly before, during, and after installation.
NOTE: This carburetor is for use on Motor Vehicle Applications Only!
Universal Double Pumper (650, 700, 750, and 800 CFM)
Holley Performance Products cannot and will not be responsible for any alleged or actual engine or other damage, or other conditions resulting
from misapplication of the products described herein. However, it is our intent to provide the best possible products for our customer; products
that perform properly and satisfy your expectations.
This carburetor has been specifically calibrated for peak performance at the racetrack. NOTE: This carburetor is not a street oriented
calibration and does not have the capability of meeting Federal or California exhaust emissions standards. In addition, this calibration will
provide less than optimum driveability and fuel economy if it misapplied and used on late model street engines, which operate at high
temperatures.
Many people mistakenly believe that they will realize performance and economy gains by using a “non-emissions” carburetor on an emissions
oriented engine. This is simply untrue. The requirements for reduced exhaust emissions on all late model vehicles have stimulated increased
carburetor development. Research and development efforts have resulted in carburetors, which feature the same “full power” fuel calibration
as carburetors of the muscle car era and yet deliver improvements in fuel economy and reduction of exhaust emissions levels. Late model
“emissions” carburetors do not contain “secret emissions controls”. They simply provide the various timing mechanisms, which can trigger
other emissions control devices. Regardless of the condition of your emissions control systems, best fuel economy gains will probably be
realized by using the Holley Emissions Design/Street Performance carburetor recommended for your vehicle.
WARNING: This carburetor is NOT designed for use with any automatic overdrive transmissions. If used on an automatic overdrive vehicle,
severe transmission damage WILL result.
NOTE: Due to the absence of a transmission kickdown lever, this carburetor should not be used on Ford applications equipped with an
automatic transmission.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Since this carburetor is intended for racing applications, and since such applications often differ greatly, these instructions are very generalized.
It is assumed that the person making the carburetor installation has basic automotive skills and experience.
This carburetor is not a “direct, bolt-on” (i.e. custom linkage pieces may be required on “off-road” engine packages).
1. Remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the throttle linkage and throttle return spring.
3. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose (to distributor), PCV hose, and fuel line.
4. Remove the carburetor from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the existing carburetor flange gasket on the intake manifold. Use a gasket scraper to assure that no small particles of the old
gasket remain. Make sure that no pieces of the old gasket material fall into the manifold. NOTE: Cover the manifold opening while
cleaning the carburetor flange.
6. If a different manifold is to be installed, the following should be considered:
A. Run a cleanup tap into each manifold bolt hole in the cylinder heads. This will remove any foreign deposits and enable even torquing
of the manifold bolts. Chances of manifold vacuum leaks resulting from manifold warpage will be minimized by this extra attention.
B. Coat each side of the intake manifold gaskets with a good silicone based sealant.
C. If cylinder heads are being milled to increase compression, remember to mill the manifold head surface to assure proper port
matching and sealing.
7. Install the throttle ball in the appropriate position on the throttle lever (Fig. 1). Some Chrysler applications may require a Chrysler throttle
lever extension (Holley P/N 20-7) and Chrysler throttle linkage stud (20-67). These are installed in Fig. 2.

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8. If the vehicle requires other linkage hardware, such as automatic kickdown linkage stud, remove the stud from the original carburetor and
install it in the appropriate place on the throttle lever.
9. Install the carburetor flange gasket on the intake manifold.
Figure 1
Figure 2
10. Place the carburetor on the manifold. Open the throttle and check to assure that the throttle plates do not interfere in any way with the
manifold. A lip resulting from manifold bores, which are smaller than the carburetor bores will disturb cylinder-to-cylinder distribution,
restrict airflow, and result in compromised performance. If necessary, have the manifold bores machined to the same diameter as the
carburetor throttle bores.
11. Install the carburetor holddown nuts and snug nuts progressively in a “criss-cross pattern” (Fig. 3). Tighten each nut twice. WARNING:
Over-tightening may result in warped or cracked throttle bodies and/or binding throttle action resulting in an unstable return-to-idle.
12. Reconnect the throttle and transmission kickdown linkage or throttle return spring. Operate the linkage from inside the vehicle or have
someone check to assure complete opening of the carburetor throttle plates.
WARNING: Check the assembled linkage for sticking and/or binding throttle action. Any sticking, binding, or other interference in the throttle
linkage could result in uncontrolled engine speed.
NOTE: If this carburetor is being installed along with an intake manifold on a vehicle, which was originally equipped with a 2BBL induction
system, it will probably be necessary to purchase a throttle cable mounting bracket. This should come from a 4BBL engine of the same
engine family in order to provide proper mounting and operation of the throttle cable and other linkage.

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Figure 3
13. Reconnect the appropriate vacuum hoses noting the correct fitting from Figures 1, 3, and 4.
A. Plug any vacuum source not used.
B. The “timed spark” fitting does not provide vacuum for distributor advance at idle. Vacuum for advance is available as soon as the
throttle is opened from idle and the engine is placed under a load, such as acceleration or cruise. If in doubt as to the operation of this
vacuum source, connect a vacuum gauge to the fitting and drive the vehicle noting the various vacuum readings.
Figure 4
14. The fuel line will have to be cut and connected to he carburetor using a “dual-feed” fuel line, such as Holley P/N 34-150. See Figure 5.
When cutting the fuel line, use a tube cutter to provide a clean cut.
WARNING: In all cases where the fuel line has been cut, it is essential that it be clean to insure that no metal particles enter the fuel bowl after
the new carburetor installation. This is performed by disconnecting the fuel line at the pump and blowing the line clean with
compressed air. Holley DOES NOT recommend the procedure where the coil wire is disconnected, the engine is cranked for a
few revolutions, and the fuel is collected in a container. This procedure is unsafe, because sparking can occur either at the coil, or
at the distributor end of the coil wire, and then ignite any fuel spilled in the engine compartment.

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NOTE: It is essential that a quality inline fuel filter be installed between the fuel pump and the carburetor.
Figure 5
15. Install a suitable manual choke cable, such as Holley P/N 45-228 and choke mounting bracket P/N 45-229. Check to make sure that the
choke fully opens with the cable.
16. Start the engine and check the fuel line and inlet fittings for possible leaks. At this time, recheck to assure all existing vacuum hoses are
attached properly. Plug any fittings that are not used.
17. Adjust the idle using the idle mixture screws (clockwise adjustments lean the mixture, counterclockwise richens the mixture). As a starting
point, set the needles 1 1/2 turns out from the full lean position, and then adjust for best idle.
18. Install the air cleaner stud from unassembled parts. Place the air cleaner gasket on the carburetor air cleaner sealing flange. Install the air
cleaner.
WARNING: Inadequate clearance between the air cleaner and the throttle lever could result in uncontrolled engine speed. Check the
clearance between the choke, manual choke lever, and the air cleaner for proper operation.
Figure 6

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Figure 7
GENERAL INFORMATION:
A. FUEL PRESSURE: This carburetor has been designed to work best at fuel pressures between 5 and 7 psi. Holley recommends 7 psi at
idle, and a minimum 4 psi at engine redline. Three 8” fuel lines can result in adequate (indicated) fuel pressures, but restricted fuel flow.
Use of a Holley electric fuel pump at the rear of the vehicle next to the fuel tank assures adequate fuel pressure under even the most
severe operating conditions.
B. ADJUSTMENTS:
1. Fuel Level: On level ground with the engine running, remove the primary and secondary fuel level sight plugs. Loosen the lock screw
and turn the adjusting nut clockwise to lower the fuel level and counterclockwise to raise the level. Fuel level will be properly adjusted
when the fuel begins to trickle out of the sight hole. Tighten the lockscrew and replace the fuel level sight plugs. See Figure 4.
2. Accelerator Pumps: The “trick” to extracting peak performance from a “double pumper” is to get the pump shot delivered at the exact
rate that is required by the engine. This rate is affected by the pump discharge nozzle size and the pump cam profiles. This
carburetor has been calibrated for the most “typical” applications. Added performance can be obtained through “on the vehicle“
testing. Necessary parts and tuning instructions are available in Holley TRICK kit P/N 37-933. In all cases, it is necessary that the
slightest movement of the throttle lever results in movement of the pump operating lever. This is adjusted by compressing or relaxing
the pump override spring as shown in Figure 8.
3. Choke: If the fast idle speed provided during the choke operation needs adjustment, turn the engine off. Close the choke exposing
the fast idle adjusting screw. Use a small open end wrench for ease of adjustment. See Figure 6.

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Figure 8
C. MAINTENANCE:
WARNING: Fuel systems components, which are required to operate under severe conditions, such as high underhood temperatures
should be periodically inspected to assure no fuel leakage and the soundness of hoses. High temperatures promote faster aging of non-
metallic materials.
Hoses that exhibit surface cracks when bent 180°, should be replaced. The presence of liquid fuel demands retightening of loose fittings,
hose replacement (when needed), and a retorquing of fuel system component flange nuts (where applicable). Tightening of the carburetor
fuel bowl screws should provide 25-30 in/lbs of torque in a clockwise direction. Periodically recheck bowl screw torque to assure proper
fuel metering. Inadequate bowl screw torque is often characterized by a condition similar to a defective power valve (i.e., black smoke from
the exhaust at idle and cruise).
D. AIR CLEANER CONFIGURATION: Unrestricted air cleaners featuring paper elements of the largest possible diameter and height are
recommended for peak performance. It is mandatory that there is a 3/4” minimum clearance between the top of the carburetor vent tubes
and the inside of the air cleaner. Any clearance less than this can result in improper fuel metering and unsatisfactory performance.
E. JETTING: Out of the box jetting will be extremely close for most single four-barrel applications. Large plenum manifolds will require larger
jetting (3 to 4 numbers larger). Tunnel ram manifolds (dual-quad applications) might require jets as much as five sizes larger than stock.
When in doubt, jet larger to start. It is cheaper to foul a set of spark plugs than to burn a piston.
GENERAL: Besides your replacement carburetor, the correct engine timing, spark plug gap, and heat range, sound primary and secondary
wiring, correct valve lifter adjustment, operational PCV, EGR, and heat riser systems are all important in order to obtain optimum
efficiency and performance from your engine.
No automotive system can perform to its maximum potential without proper maintenance and adjustment of all its components.