Hyperdrive Havoc 2.0 User manual

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J & D Machine / Hyperdrive / MSA
3711 Moon Bend Rd.
Chapel Hill, TN 37034
www.HyperdriveRacing.com
Shown with optional GFR-1017R Body Posts

You now own a state of the art 1/10 scale oval race car. The Hyperdrive
Havoc 2.0 has gone through months of testing by our factory drivers to
insure that you get a car that has maximum performance and
adjustability built in. In purchasing this kit you have not only helped the
hobby and sport of Dirt Oval racing by supporting your local hobby shop
but you have also bought the quality of a Hyperdrive Racing
performance product. How well your car performs is dependant upon the
assembly of your car kit. Take your time and assemble your car as
shown in this manual. This will give you a good starting point from which
you can make adjustments dependant upon the track you are racing on.
The following items are required to complete your car:
• Two channel Surface Radio
• Electronic Speed Control
• Shock Oil
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• Tires
• Body
Tools needed in the construction of your car:
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Hobby Knife
• Allen Wrenches;3/32,1/16,5/64 & 0.050
• Pliers or appropriate sized Nut Drivers/Sockets
• 1/8” Reamer or Drill Bit
• Medium Sandpaper

Step #1: Take medium grit sandpaper and lightly
sand all edges of the graphite. Run a small bead of
Super Glue around the sanded edges.
Step #1: Attach nose plate to the chassis using (2)
8-32x7/8” FH and (1) 8-32x1/4” FH.
Step #2: Attach front bulkhead to the nose plate
using (4) 8-32x7/16” FH.
Step #3: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make
sure the pin will spin freely in both the arms and front
bulkhead. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream
Preparation
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bulkhead. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream
holes until proper fit has been achieved. Attach front
arms to front bulkhead using the 1.43” hinge pins.
Step #4: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make sure
the pin will spin freely in both the arms and castor
blocks. If needed take a 1/8” reamer and ream holes
until proper fit has been achieved. Attach front arms to
castor blocks using the .98” hinge pins. Make sure the
castor block will rotate freely in arm. The castor blocks
are molded pieces and sometimes are a little tight. If
needed take sandpaper and remove material on the
castor block until proper fit has been achieved.
Step #5: Press the front axle into the steering arm.
Align holes in both the parts so they will allow the king
pin thru.

Step #6: Place the steering arm into the castor block
with a 1/8” plastic spacer between the top of the steering
arm and the top of the castor block. Slide the king pin
thru the castor block and steering arm. Put a 1/16” plastic
spacer over king pin and then put the e clip on.
Step #7: Install ball studs in the middle holes of the
front bulkhead.
Step #8: Using the supplied ball cups and the
turnbuckles, assemble the two camber links. Remember
the turnbuckles have a right hand thread on one end and
a left hand thread on the other. Use a little grease on
each end of threads prior to putting on the ball cup to
make threading them on easier. Reference dimensions
are 2.95” for the right front and 3.00” on the left front.
Press one end on the king pin stud and one end on the
front bulkhead ball stud. Repeat for opposite side.
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Step #9: Slide the (2) bell crank risers over the 8-
32 screws. Put a .020” thick washer over the screw.
Press (4) 1/4x3/8” flanged bearings into each side of
the bell cranks. Slide the bell crank standoffs down
thru the bearings. Thread the standoff down to the
risers making sure the washer goes over the standoffs.
Tighten the standoffs against the risers.
Step #10: Using the supplied rod ends and the (2)
.75” long turnbuckles, assemble the two steering rods.
Use a little grease on each end of the threads prior to
putting on the rod ends to make threading them on
easier. Reference dimension from center of rod end to
center of rod end is 2.125” for both the right front and
the left front.

Step #11: Install ball studs in the middle holes of
the bell cranks. Press on the plastic molded tie rod
onto each side of the bell cranks.
Step #12: Using (2) 4-40x3/8” BH screws on the
steering arms and (2) 4-40x3/8” BH screws on the bell
cranks install the tie rods as shown in picture. Tighten
(2) aluminum 4-40 locknuts on the inner 2 screws.
Step #1: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Make
sure the pin will spin freely in both the arms and rear
mounts. If needed take an 1/8” reamer and ream
holes until proper fit has been achieved. Attach rear
arms to rear arm mounts using the 1.79” hinge pins
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arms to rear arm mounts using the 1.79” hinge pins
and (2) .02” brass shims.
Step #2: Check the fit of the hinge pins. Attach
hub carrier to rear arms using the 1.18” hinge pins.
Slide hinge pin from the back of the arm thru the arm
thru (2) .020” thick washers, thru the hub carrier, thru
an 1/8” plastic spacer, and then thru the other side of
the arm. Make sure the hub carrier will rotate freely in
arm. Repeat for remaining arm.
Step #3: Using (4) 4-40x3/8” FH screws install the
rear arm mount to the chassis as shown picture.
Make sure the 0,2 markings are toward the back inner
part of the chassis. Now install the rear tower block to
the chassis with (2) 4-40x3/8” FH screws. Then attach
the rear tower to the block with (2) 4-40x5/16” BH.
Now attach the other tower block to the tower using (2)
4-40x5/16” BH.

Step #4: Using (1) 4-40x3/8” SH attach the rear
camber link spacer to shock tower. Use (1) ball
stud and screw into the camber link spacer.
Assemble rear camber links using (2) rod ends, (2)
ball cups, and the 1.75” turnbuckles. Put a little
grease on each end of threads prior to putting on
the rod end to make threading them on easier.
Reference dimensions are 2.55” for the right rear
and 2.65” on the left rear. Use (1) 4-40x3/8” BH,
attach the rod end to the inner hole on top of the
rear hub carrier. Then press the ball cup onto ball
stud. Repeat for opposite side.
Step #5: Follow instructions for the assembly of
the CVD kit.
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Step #6: Insert (2) 3/16x3/8 bearings into hub
carriers. Slide a .050” thick spacer over the axle.
Insert axle thru the hub carrier’s bearings. Put a
.020” thick spacer over the axle. Insert the drive
roll pin. Repeat for opposite side. The hub carriers
are a molded piece and may need to have the axle
shimmed different to achieve the proper fit.
Step #1: Apply supplied grease into the diff ball holes
on the diff gear. Press the (12) 3/32” diff balls into the
holes of the diff gear. Press (1) 5/32" X 5/16" Bearing into
the center of the diff gear.
Step #2: Using the right out drive hub, press the diff
spring into the slotted end of the diff hub followed by the t-
nut.
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nut.
Step #3: Slide the diff thrust washer onto the 2-56 diff
bolt. Apply a generous amount of grease to the thrust
washer on the side facing away from the bolt head. Now
stick the (6) 5/64” diff thrust balls into the grease on the
thrust washer. Slide the other thrust washer onto the diff
bolt. Use the grease to keep everything in place while
assembling. Slide the bolt assembly into the left out drive
hub without losing any thrust balls. Then insert the bolt
cover.
Step #4: Insert (1) 5/32" X 5/16" bearing into the left
out drive hub. Apply a thin coat of Stealth Lube to both
sides of the diff rings. Now place 1diff ring on both out
drives over the register in the face of the hub. Slide the
diff gear onto the left out drive. Finally slide right out drive
over the diff bolt and onto the diff gear. Tighten the diff
bolt to the t-nut but not all the way. Check to make sure
the diff rings are still in their seat on the out drives and
rotate the diff several times as you tighten the bolt.

Step #5: When the T-Nut reaches the bottom of the
slot, the spring should be fully compressed. Pay
attention to when the spring is fully compressed, you do
not want to over tighten. When the spring is fully
compressed, loosen the diff bolt 1/8 of a turn. Your diff
should spin smoothly.
Step #6: Insert (4) 3/16”x3/8” bearings into
transmission case. Insert (2) 3/16”x3/8” bearings into
the idler gear. Place the idler shaft into the center hole
of transmission. Slide the idler gear over the shaft into
place in the transmission. Using a top shaft spacer on
each side of the shaft gear insert the top shaft into the
transmission case. Place the diff assembly into the
transmission. Make sure the head side of the thrust
bolt is on the same side as the threads on the top shaft
are on.
Step #6:
Take the two halves and press them
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Step #6:
Take the two halves and press them
together. Insert the 4-40x3/8 FH into the lower part of
transmission to hold cases together. Press the top
shaft roll pin thru the top shaft centering it. Using the
(3) supplied plastic spacers run (3) 4-40x 1” SH thru the
left side case, thru the spacers and into the motor plate.
Insert (2) 4-40x1/8” set screws into the slipper
eliminator. Then slide the slipper eliminator over the
top shaft and tighten set screws in place.
Step #7: Mount the transmission into the chassis
using (2) 4-40x3/8” FH. Put the (2) .060” thick plastic
spacers between the bottom of the transmission and
the top of the riser plate. Using the two forward holes in
the chassis, mount the transmission. Install the
transmission brace using (4) 4-40x5/16” BH.

Step #1: Using the supplied IRS shocks and
Instructions build the shocks with 30 weight oil.
Measuring from the center of the top cap hole to the
center hole of the ball cup. Make the shock lengths:
Front 2.40” long (short shafts) and the Rears 2.63” long
(longer shafts).
Step #2: Install springs on both front and rear shocks.
The front springs will be the white 4lbs. and the rears will
be the gold 10lbs. springs. Using the adjuster nuts on
the springs seat each spring with just about half of a turn
of tension on them.
Step #3: Locate the front shock tower, and install (2)
4-40x3/4” SH thru the upper middle holes on tower.
Tighten a 4
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40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Now
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Tighten a 4
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40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Now
using (2) 4-40x5/16” BH install front shock tower onto the
front bulkhead. Make sure the screws are facing forward
on the tower.
Step #4: Slide a shock bushing over each of the 4-40
SH with the bigger end facing the nut. Now install the
shocks onto the shock tower by sliding the cap over the
shock bushing and using a 4-40 plastic shock nut to
tighten everything down and in place. Then snap the ball
cup over the ball stud mounted on the top of the front
arms.
Step #5: Install (2) 4-40x3/4” SH thru the upper row of
holes 4th hole from the center of the rear tower. Tighten a
4-40 steel locknut down to shock tower. Make sure the
screws are facing forward on the tower.

Step #4: Slide a shock bushing over each of the 4-
40 SH with the bigger end facing the nut. Now install
the shocks onto the shock tower by sliding the cap
over the shock bushing and using a 4-40 plastic shock
nut to tighten everything down and in place. Then
snap the ball cup over the ball stud mounted on the
back of the rear arms.
Step #1 Opt. Posts: Install (4) 4-40x1/8” set
screws into the bases of the body posts. Slide the
posts into the bases with the turned down side of the
posts sticking out of the bases. Using the body post
swivel mounts and the body clips install the swivel
onto the posts.
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Step #2: Install onto the chassis using (2) 4-
40x3/8” FH into the bases of the body posts. Using (2)
4-40x3/8” SH mount the bases to the rear body.
Step #3: Connect the two pieces of the rear body
mount together using (2) 4-40x3/8” BH with 4-40
aluminum locknuts. Now mount the rear body mount
to the rear bulkhead using (2) 4-40x5/16” BH, making
sure the body posts are facing up.
Opt. L/M Bumper: Mount the front bumper with
(2) 8-32x7/16 FH. Then use (2) 4-40x3/8” BH to
connect the body posts to the bumper.