Jacuzzi Gatsby Operating instructions

The Mechanical Operation and Repair of
Gatsby, Blue Ridge, and Swift River
Spas built by Jacuzzi

ONLY for the Following ELECTRONIC Spas Made 1999-2002 with this Topside:
(does not Apply to ANY Model using other topsides)
Published by GatsbySpaParts.com
Copyrighted. All Rights Reserved. B.Bouman and Company, LLC
2010
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Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to make this manual understandable and applicable.
If you have doubts or little experience with electrical appliances, it’s best to leave
electrical work to licensed electricians. Care and proper electrical procedures
must be adhered to whenever working with electricity and especially is true with
spas since you are dealing with electrical current that can harm or kill you or
those near or in the spa.
As a Rule of Thumb: ALWAYS TURN THE SPA’S MAIN POWER OFF
UNLESS REQUIRED TO PERFORM A TEST. WHEN YOU DO HAVE POWER
ON BE CAREFUL AND USE PROPER ELECTRICAL PROTECTION AND
PROCEDURES.
Although this booklet should be able to guide you through most repairs and even
diagnosing the problem, www.gatsbyspaparts.com offers an “Ask the Expert” free
of charge where you can write me and be more specific for your spa and your
particular problem.
Every effort has been made to be accurate and complete but note we cannot
guarantee specific accuracy.
Throughout this manual reference to part numbers are Jacuzzi/Gatsby Spa
numbers, . If the part number prefix is “CC” the part is our own number and
available on our website. Also note, normally, numbers on the part are not
Jacuzzi stocking numbers but numbers used by the original manufacturer
including mold number. We have no cross reference from these numbers.
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Table of Contents
Words and Their Meaning.
Introduction
Overview
Section One: Equipment and Parts
Chapter One: Pumps and Motors
Chapter Two:Heaters
Chapter Three: Control System
Chapter Four: Air Blowers
Chapter Five: Pressure Switch: Flow Switch
Chapter Six: Sensors
Chapter Seven: Topside Control
Chapter Eight: Ozonators
Chapter Nine: Mood Lights
Chapter Ten: Plumbing
Chapter Eleven: Spa Jets
Section Two: Troubleshooting
I. Trips GFCI
II. Doesn’t Heat
III. Motor Hums or Doesn’t Work
IV. Pump Leaks
V. Error Codes Defined and Fix
VI. Models
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Words and Their Meaning.
“Spa”; typically means same as hot tub. Often get confused with indoor jetted
bath. But spas normally are outside, require heating, and are operationally 24/7.
“Pump”; Generally only applies to “wetend” or part that moves the water.
Attaches to “motor”.
“Motor”; part that when electrical current is applied it will spin. Normal low speed
is 1725 rpm and 3450 for high. Can be one or two speeds. Some single speed
motors are dual voltage. On dual voltage motors usually the motor comes wired
for high or 240vac. But always confirm from diagram on motor’s label which you
motor is. Usually apply high voltage to a low voltage motor will permanently harm
it. Usually applying low voltage to a high voltage motor will if corrected quickly,
not permanently harm it.
“Jet”; The part of the plumbing that secures the piping to the spa shell and injects
water/air into the spa.
“Topside”; the control pad on the outside of the spa that you operate the spa from
including temperature change and jet action.
“Control Box” or “Command Center”; the box underneath that includes the pc
board and cables. Basically the “brains” of the spa.
“Power”; spas are designed for either 110-130vac or 220-240vac. There is a
certain tolerance of voltage but normally the range should be the above. Outside
the range can harm equipment include the control box and pump motors. Some
spas come designed to operate on either 115v or 230v. It this case, the difference
is efficiency of the spas heater and when it can come on. When the spa is
operated on 115v, the heater uses about 1/3 of its ability to heat. Therefore 1-2
heating per hour is normal. When the same heater has 230v applied to it, the spa
will heat 5-6 degrees per hour. On most system, when the jet pump is on high
and the spa is operating on 115v, the heater turns off. When the spa is operated
on 230v, the heater will remain on. To gain this feature usually requires an
adjustment on the board.
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Introduction
I started servicing Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath spas in 1995. I first started by working
for a friend who was an Authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bath.
Shortly after that I purchased the spa repair business from him and became the
owner.
From that date to 2001 we were the authorized Service Center for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Products in the Denver and Eastern Colorado area. During that time
we were rated in the top 10 service companies in the United States for customer
service. We were the only Service Company to receive that award every time it
was offered during those years. When Jacuzzi, Inc reorganized their company in
2001, they moved their spa production to their Sundance plant. We continue to
and are still servicing Jacuzzi Hot Tubs as a service center.
It just happened that when I started working and servicing spas for Jacuzzi
Whirlpool Bath was also the time the industry was switching to electronic
controlled spas. Therefore I experienced the changes that have occurred during
this time and continue to work in the field, I have experienced a wide spectrum of
problems and their solution. I would like to say I have seen it all but that always
proves untrue.
I have tried to make this manual simple but comprehensive; quite a challenge. To
do so I try first to explain what and how the part works. Then how to replace or
repair the part.
This manual also includes common failures and error codes and their solution.
In the Troubleshooting Section I have found 99% of the problems with a spa are
routine if you follow a systematic approach. Sometimes I make this approach too
obvious but for the sake of the weekend warrior, I made it so.
If you have questions not specifically addressed in this manual, you can contact
me at [e-mail]. It’s the first email I check, usually every
business day. I will be happy to help all I can.
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Overview
Who is Gatsby?
Gatsby was a manufacturer of hot tubs in Plant City, Florida. For years they built
entry level spas sold throughout the SE states. They produced a number of spa
models under brand names like Gatsby, Blue Ridge, Swift River, and Imperial
Spas. In most cases, one model design will come under one or more of those
labels.
Jacuzzi bought Gatsby spas and began moving their entry level production to
Florida and have Gatsby division build all their entry level spas. Soon after that,
Jacuzzi closed down production at that plant and discontinued all lines built by
that division.
When Jacuzzi bought Gatsby the support of earlier production spas had already
been discontinued. Jacuzzi service companies received no technical information
or parts for servicing those earlier, non-electronic spas. Unfortunately for spa
owners of earlier non electronic models parts and support are not available.
Jacuzzi recommendation to those owners with problems with their older control
system is to replace their older non-electronic spas with newer electronic
systems. We carry both those systems and more economical fully electronic
aftermarket retrokits for these spas. See our website under “Tutor” for more
information.
Therefore if your spa has a topside with a DIAL temp control and plunger like on/
off buttons, there is not support or supply for that system. Motors and heaters are
available but not your circ ump.
GENERAL; How Spa’s Work
Basically, spa operation is simple. The pump draws the water from the spa,
usually through a filter, then through the pump and pushes it through the heater
and back into the spa. Now add more jets, more pumps, an air blower, and
maybe a stereo. That’s today’s popular spa.
America’s lust for more jets has driven the need for more pumps to drive the jets.
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To help keep the spa clean with less chemicals, manufactures have added a 24
hour circulation pump and Ozonator. For a few models you also have an air
blower that blows air bubbles up from the seats of the spa.
GATSBY Specific SPA DESIGN:
Most electronic spas built by Gatsby division have the following configuration:
a. Main electronic control box.
b. Separate canister heater.
c. Small 24hr circulation pump
d. One of two large jet pumps.
e. Jet pumps can be one or two speed.
Less common configuration is:
a. Main electronic control box with heater attached.
b. NO circulation pump.
c. One or two large jet pump.
d. #1 jet pump is two speed. Low speed also operates to heat and filter.
SPA SHELL
Spa shells are typically acrylic. A sheet of acrylic is heated and dropped into a
mold and vacuumed to form the shell. Then it’s flipped over and sprayed with a
fiberglass solution that gives it strength. Holes are drilled into the spa and jets
installed. Then the plumbing is finished and insulation is now sprayed. Finally the
equipment is installed. The construction of the spa is mostly performed with the
spa upside down. Finally the spa is flipped upright and final tests including water
testing is done.
The spa frame was made a wide variety of ways over the years but basically it
was on either a wood bracing, solid plywood base, or fiberglass base. Often the
spa shell has part of the frame molded into the actual spa shell or glued to it to
create strength.
Paneling
The paneling of spas has changed over the years. Initially redwood slates were
the common siding. In an attempt to economize the cost of panels, Gatsby built
panels with various stained wood. Some of the late production was synthetic
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plastic panels or slats. These are becoming popular even though they can be as
costly as redwood or cedar. But they are able to withstand the elements with little
care.
Typically you should re-stain pine panels every year.
Newer spas with synthetic siding require little upkeep other than cleaning. I have
seen spas where the heat of the sun causes the panels to bow and lose shape. If
you see this happening, you might consider reinforcing the back of the panel with
a piece of wood or where you can and available, add a screw or two to center
areas that are bowing. You will need to locate a wood vertical post to screw the
panel against to create more support and avoid bowing.
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Chapter ONE Pump & Motors
Overview:
There can be confusion; What’s a pump? What’s a motor? Are they the same?
The “pump” is considered by many to be the complete pump/motor and by
others only the end where the water passes through. The “wetend” is the more
common word for the end that moves the water. For the industry, “pump” and
“wetend” are the same. “Motor” is JUST the motor. “Pump/Motor Complete”
would be both already assembled. In most cases, “complete” does not mean with
a new cord.
I. Circulation Pump (see more later)
Most Gatsby built spas used either the less common 115v small circulation pump
or the more common 230v circulation pump. This pump runs 24/7. It avails the
homeowner with a system that keeps water clean by constant filtering.
Most common is full replacement of failed circulation pumps, not replacing
internal parts.
II. Jet Pump
Your spa will have one or two jet pumps. The pump motor can either by 115v or
230v. Also it can be one or two speed. Plus, to complicate, there are two pump
styles and a variety of pump horsepower. So how do you tell what you have?
First, your pump is either center or side discharge. 1.5hp pumps can be either
center or side. All others are side. Center discharge means the top discharge is
in the middle of the pump. Side discharge means your output of the pump is on
the side. Most pumps are side discharge but check.
Next is pump’s horsepower. As a rule of thumb, the horsepower rating must be
equal or less than the motor’s rating. If the pump is oversized for the motor, it
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likely will shorten the life of the motor or cause it to continue to overheat and shut
off. You can oversize the motor but not the pump.
Jet pumps on Gatsby spas are basically a generic designed pump. The main
body or bracket mounts on the motor by the 4 bolts that hold the motor together
and pump to motor.
Next part of the pump is the mechanical seal. This seal is 2 pieces. One piece
goes into the seat cup of the pump housing. The other slides on the impellor’s
shaft. When the impellor tightens to the motor shaft, the two halves press
outward and seal the pump.
The impellor attaches to the motor shaft. They simply screw together with
standard clockwise screw. When the impellor rotates it is what moves the water.
A large oring seals the front of the pump (volute) when the bolts tighten them
together.
Last part is the volute or front of the pump. It has a seat the impellor sits into
when the bolts are tighten.
Simply explained, when the impellor turns it compresses the water and the
compressed water escapes out of the top of the pump.
Commonly, the “motor” is ONLY the motor. Most common are either AO Smith or
Emerson motors although other companies make motors like GE. Spa motors
are either 115vac or 230vac although some can be either. If either, you can “field
wire” the motor to match the application you are installing. Likely the motor came
wired for 230v but you can field wire it down to 115v. The way to tell if your motor
is dual voltage is on the label of the motor. It will show a High and a Low wiring
diagram. This is relation to volts, not speed. Typically you will check the label to
see what voltage the motor is wired for. If its wired for the wrong voltage, you
follow the motor’s diagram.. But typically, it’s either 115v or 230v.
The key for motors is matching the horsepower (hp) of the motor to the pump.
You can have a motor oversized for a pump hp and be OK. It’s like having an
oversized motor for your car. But you cannot have a pump too large for the
motor. If you do, the motor will have a early failure. It’s like driving a large car with
an undersized motor. Best bet is to match.
Gatsby used one and two speed 115v motors and one and two speed 230v
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motors. They all were 48y frame motors.
Lastly, in the industry the motor is motor only, pump is the wetend, and when they
are together, they are called pump complete.
PUMP/MOTOR
The motor takes electrical current and turns the shaft clockwise. Although
individual parts may be available, usually bad motors are replaced not repaired.
REPLACING JET Pump/Motor:
Removal:
Turn main power off. Drain the spa. Most models do not have valves to
close to avoid draining the spa. Once the spa is drained, disconnect the 2
couplings attached to the pump (wet end). Normally you can hand loosen but
occasionally you will need to use a large wrench to loosen. You can also use a oil
filter wrench to loosen.
Next: The motor itself is attached by four nuts at the feet. There is likely
a copper bonding wire attached to the motor. Remove. Unplug the pump cord
from the control box.
Remove pump/motor assembly.
Disassemble Pump (wetend).
A. Remove 4 bolts holding the front face of the pump (volute) to the
pump housing.
B. You will see the nose of the impellor. You will want to disconnect the
impellor from the motor shaft. The motor shaft screws into the impellor. The
intended method to separate is this: on the opposite end of the pump/motor
assembly, in the middle, is the motor shaft end. It has a slot. Take a large slotted
screwdriver and while holding the impellor stationary with one hand, turn the
motor shaft with the other. If this doesn’t work, reverse focus and turn the
impellor with your hand while holding the motor shaft stationary. In worst case
situations, you can grab the motor shaft between the pump and motor with a pair
of vice grips and hand turn the impellor loose. If that doesn’t work, you will have
to use a wrench on the impellor to separate. This will likely damage the impellor
and will need to be replaced.
C. Once the impellor is separated you need to disconnect the pump
bracket or body from the motor. It is held by 4 long bolts that run through the
motor and bolt to the pump. Disconnect each bolt but DO NOT pull the bolts out.
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They also hold the motor together and removal will likely cause the motor to
disassemble.
D. If you are replacing the pump (wetend), reverse. If the motor shaft is
corroded, you need to remove the rust. The least abrasive method is best. Start
with steel wool, then try a wire brush or even sandpaper. You need to have a
clean motor shaft so the impellor can tighten cleanly against the seal and make
the seal work. If the motor shaft is highly corroded, the new impellor will not
tighten against the seal and the pump will leak.
E. If you are replacing the motor, you have to move the motor cord from
the old to new. The motor is only a 110-130vac motor so you don’t have any
internal wiring to change for the new motor. Note the wiring sequence on the
label of the old motor in reference to the color of the wires. It will show a neutral,
low, and high plus ground sequence. Compare to new motor label and make sure
the wires go to the same speed.
Circulation Pump:
Most Gatsby models have a 24 hour circulation pump. It sits next to the heater.
When power is applied to the spa the control unit turns on the circ pump. So it
runs all the time. Because of that, normal life is between 5-7 years. Also
individual parts are hard to obtain and usually only extend the life of the
pump/motor marginally if at all. So service techs routinely replace the complete
pump/motor circulation pump and you should too.
Your circ pump is either 115v or 230v. The label on the motor will identify which
you have.
Replacement is simple. When you get the new circ pump, confirm you are getting
the same voltage pump. Note the discharge direction of the new with the old.
Sometimes you have to turn the pump ¼ turn to match. This only requires
removal of 2 screws. Gatsby replacement circulation pumps come with a cord so
it is an unplug, plug situation.
Usually I do not drain the spa. You may choose to do so to avoid lack of need of
speed. I have found that usually I keep the old pump bracket in place. I remove
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the 2 screws holding the pump to the mounting frame on the old and new. Swap
and done. It is fairly easy.
Jacuzzi has updated their inventory to carry only the newer “E” pump from the
same manufacturer. This pump has several advantages. First, its expected to last
longer because it draws less current and doesn’t get as hot. And second, to avoid
airlocks, the motor has a built in chip that will start at a low rpm and build higher.
It is the only circulation pump Jacuzzi now uses and the one we stock.
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Chapter TWO HEATER
Function:
The heater is a simple device. Electricity is applied to the heater element.
Because the element is made to resist the current but not completely, the
heater’s resistance causes the element to glow. The result is heat.
Overview:
The heater does just what’s name says, heats the water. Generally on models
with horizontal heaters you will not notice noticeably warm water coming out of
the jets because of the design of the water flow. On spas with a canister heater
and circulation pump, you will because the heater water only comes out of one or
two heater ports.
The two basic flow methods start the same way; the water is pulled from the
lower part of the spa (called suction fittings) and one or two assemblies with
filters designed to pull water from the top of the spa. The theory is this will draw
water from upper and lower and therefore keep a thorough water movement.
On spa models without a small circulation pump the water is pulled through the
#1 pump and into the spa. This pump/motor is typically 2 speeds.
On spa models with a small circulation pump the water flows from the filter,
through the pump, through the heater and back into the spa.
The heater itself is simply an element that heats. Electrical current enters it and
slows down. This slowing down causes the element to heat. As water flows by
the heated element the temperature is transferred from the element to the water.
It’s typical to heat 1-6 degrees per hour. The spas that operate on 110-130vac
typically heat 1-2 degrees per hour. Spas that operate on 220-240vac heat 5-6
degrees per hour.
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Spas with horizontal heater attached to the control box have a pressure switch
screwed directly into the heater. Typically it’s a 2lb switch. The high limit sensor
either clips against the heater or is a round sensor mounted against the heater.
The canister heater is either 4.0kw or 5.5kw. Both operate on either 115v or 230v.
FYI: Gatsby engineers built spas that operated on 115v with 5.5kw heaters; and
spas operating on 230v with 4.0kw heaters. Jacuzzi engineers had the opposite
approach. So pre-2000 spas had Gatsby design and post Jacuzzi’s. Nothing
changed except engineer’s opinion. So if you are operating your spa on 230v,
you might consider the 5.5kw heater replacement which cost no more, is the
exact same heater, and will heat faster.
Replacement of Heater:
I. Horizontal Heater:
The horizontal heater typically requires you to drain the spa. You then disconnect
the heater couplings from the plumbing.
Your heater will either be held to the control box by nuts holding the heater’s bolts
to the control box or straps. Either way, removal will release the heater assembly.
Your spa has either the OH/High Limit sensor attached by a clip to the heater or
more common, the spa uses a disc high limit sensor against the heater. For
those with a sensor clipped to the heater, you slide the sensor out of the clip. For
those with a disc high limit, its held either in place on the heater or the housing of
the control box. On the former you disconnect. On the later you leave the sensor
in place.
II. Vertical Heater:
Typically you drain the spa to replace the heater. Although not
impossible, it’s a challenge to replace the heater with water in the spa.
Replacement is very simple. You remove the copper ground wire if
present. Unplug the element cord and pressure switch cord (if applicable). The
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heater is typically mounted with 3 screw/bolts. Remove. Disconnect heater hose
off the heater, swap, and install. Plug in cords. Attach ground wire. Done.
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Chapter THREE Control System
WE call the “Control System” the box which the electronic control is located and
on some models, the heater.
BOARDS:
Overview:
Circuit boards came into common use in the mid 90’s. They are a major
improvement in many ways over the older mechanical spas. They are more
accurate in keeping the proper temperature. They typically will filter automatically
or on some models, are programmable to when and what length of time they will
filter. They also have settings for when you are away so the spa will keep the
water clean yet not stay hot.
How It Works:
Basically the board is a computer board and is commonly called pc board. They
constantly test various components including pressure/flow switches, temp and
OH sensors, topside, motors, and heaters. Some will notify you when its time to
replace the filter. They are design both to make operation of the spa easier, keep
the water cleaner, and filter the water on a regular basis.
The Steps the Board Takes to Come On:
Gatsby circuit boards typically go through the same routine. When you turn on
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power the spa does a self test to make sure internally everything is operating
properly. At this time the 24hr circ pump comes on or the low speed on the #1
pump does.
When the board is going through it test it will look to confirm the board’s integrity
is fine. It will look at the temp and OH sensor to confirm they are within tolerance
and close to equal. It will look at the flow/pressure switch to confirm that the
switch is open. Then it will turn on either the circulation pump, the #1 pump, or
the low speed on the 2 speed pump; whichever you have.
When it turns the pump on it will look again at the flow/pressure switch to confirm
the switch is now closed since water movement should be sufficient to register. If
the switch is closed, the board will turn the heater on.
Your board may also include a “blowout” mode. Periodically the board will turn all
the pumps and the air blower on to move water throughout the complete water
system. This assures clean, sanitized water is refreshed.
If you don’t have a spa with a circulation pump the spa should periodically go into
a filter cycle. On standard models by default they filter twice a day for 2 hours or
a total of 4 hours. These cycles usually default when you first power up the spa.
Then it filters 2 hours at that point and 12 hours later.
REPLACEMENT:
Your board either is a 1042 or 1044 board. See our website for pictures to help
you identify which you have if you don’t see the part number on your board.
Besides which number board you have, you also must configure the new board
to match the old. This is critical. Just above the socket on the board you will see
3 jumpers; JP 7-9. One or two of these wires must be cut to configure you new
board to your system. It’s hard to “see” which. You must put you fingernail on all
three and ID which wire on the new board must be cut.
WARNING: As a routine, always touch a metal surface before touching a board.
A static charge from your hand can damage the board.
These boards are fairly easy to replace if you are careful. First turn off main
power at the main breaker panel.
a. Remove control box cover.
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b. Remove the screws holding the lower finger boards to the lower terminal.
c. On the wires connecting to the board on the left, it’s easy to mix up the wires.
So note which wires go to which connection. It would make sense to label the
wires. Typically I try to keep these wires in place. Disconnect the rest of the board
connections and swing the board out and to the left. Install new board. Then I can
disconnect wire by wire from old to new board.
d. Unplug the transformer wire to the board.
e. Unplug the pressure switch and both sensor wire connections to the board.
Disconnect topside plug from the side of the control box.
e. Remove screws holding board to control box. Your board might be held to the
control box by nylon posts. To release the board from the nylon post: there is a
clip on the post. Press the clip toward the middle of the post and pull the board
toward you. Do this for all posts and the board will release. To install, reverse.
NOTE HOW TO CONFIGURE NEW BOARD DISCUSSED ABOVE.
Reverse to install.
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Chap Four: AIR BLOWER:
Few models have an air blower system besides the water flowed plumbing. It is
separate then from the normal forced water jets. The blower is turned on and the
air is forced into the spa as bubbles. Between the air blower and the method of
air disbursement is a looping system to stop water from flowing back to the air
blower. Typically either two loops of flex hose or 2 rigid pipe loops and a check
valve will stop any water from reaching the blower.
When building the spa one of two common methods was used: either one or
more channels are built into the bottom of the spa. Then holes are drilled along
these channels. When the air blower is turned on it pushes air into the channels.
The other common method is installing a separate piping system with small
nozzles along the bottom of the seating area and applying air into those nozzles.
Electronic spas typically have an automatic blowout at least a couple of times a
day. The spa will turn on several times a day and run for a couple minutes. This
will fill the channels with air. When the blower turns off the cleaner sanitized
water will flow back into the channels and help keep them clean.
Removal:
The blower is either 110v or 220v depending on the model. You must match
voltage. Most are 1hp blowers.
To remove is easy. There usually is one screw holding the blower to the
plumbing. There might also be a hose strap tighten around the area. IF so,
loosen.
Once both screw and strap are removed, loosen, the blower lifts out.
Replacement blowers might have a cord to splice in to the older cord or include a
cord you simply plug into the control box.
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