Jotika H.M. Brig Badger User manual

H.M. BRIG BADGER
NELSON’S FIRST COMMAND
Manual 1 of 2
Hull Construction, Masting & Rigging
Additional photos of every stage of construction can be found on our website at:
http://www.jotika-ltd.com
Nelsons Navy Kits manufactured and distributed by JoTiKa Ltd.
Model Marine Warehouse, Hadzor, Droitwich, WR9 7DS.
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©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 1
HM Brig Badger
Nelson’s First Official* Command
Badger (Ex-Pitt) is believed to have been a prize captured during the War of American Independence (1775 - 1783). She is
shown on Navy Lists from 1776, and remained in service until sold in 1783.
Brigs were generally used for convoy duties, carrying dispatches, inshore reconnaissance and upholding trade agreements and
Badger was no exception. Brigs differed from standard ship rigged men-of-war in so much as they were square-rigged on two
masts and the bowsprit only. Although relatively swift and manoeuvrable brigs were very cramped and uncomfortable as they
tended to be considerably wet in heavy seas.
In 1778, while serving on board the 50-Gun Ship Bristol, Nelson was promoted by Admiral Parker to the position of
Commander and, on 8th December 1778, he was appointed to Badger. Nelson actually entered into Badger on 31st December
1778, superseding Captain Everitt.
Nelson’s first log entry, dated 1st January 1779, reads:
‘Moderate and Clear Weather, received my commission and superseded Captain Michael John Everitt in Command of Badger,
went on board an read Ditto to the Ships Company, People employed occasionally’.
Nelsons time on Badger was generally uneventful, carrying out blockade and escort duties. However, two incidents noted
within the ship’s log and worthy of mention are:
1. The capture of an 80 ton vessel: On Thursday 29 April 1778 Badger,
‘… made Sail and gave Chace, at 4 fired a four pounder shotted and brought to the Chace…’
The prize proved to be the 80 ton vessel La Prudente carrying nine Frenchmen and was described as,
‘… a sloop from Cape François bound to the Mississippi…’
2. The rescue of the men from on board HMS Glasgow: On Wednesday 2 June 1779, while anchored at Montego
Bay,
‘… at 6PM saw the Alarm of Fire onboard the Glasgow: sent our Boats and two boats belonging to
Merchantmen: with Buckets and Men to their assistance 1/2 past 7 PM was got through the Quarter deck, and up
the Main rigging: The Boats employed receiving the Men from The Glasgow: Captain and Officers of Do.
Onboard the Badger’.
At 12 o’clock there was an explosion onboard HMS Glasgow and she immediately sunk but, as a result of
Nelsons swift action, the entire crew of HMS Glasgow were rescued, although several would die later from their
burns.
On 11 June 1779, Nelson was promoted to post-captain and on Sunday 20 June, he transferred out of Badger to the 28-Gun
Frigate Hinchinbroke.
The model depicts Badger after re-fitting for Royal Naval service during Nelson's time in charge, December 8 1778 - June 19
1779.
* Although Nelson had captained both an unnamed sloop in November 1777 and the Schooner Little Lucy until early 1778,
these were not official commands.
As custom dictates, Nelson was referred to as Captain while in charge of these ships but he was not in 'command'. This is due
to the fact that Nelson, although he had passed his Lieutenant’s exam in April 1777, was still a non-commissioned officer
(second-lieutenant) and was deemed only to have control or charge of the ship but not command per se.
According to the most technical definition of the word, the only persons able to exercise command in a military are
commissioned officers. This is because commissioned officers derive authority directly from a sovereign power and, as such,
hold a commission charging them with the duties and responsibilities of their specific office or position.
While in control of both the unnamed sloop and the Schooner Little Lucy, command remained with Captain William Locker of
the 32-Gun Frigate Lowestoffe - the ship which Nelson was tending.
Nelson was promoted to the commissioned officer status of Lieutenant on 31st December 1778, when he was commissioned to
Badger and Badger was therefore his first official command.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
2
Getting started
Badger is an exact scale model designed using original Admiralty plans. All fittings, masts and rigging have been researched
using contemporary sources and the most up to date reference material available.
Although the kit is as prefabricated as we can make it, basic woodworking skills are required. Estimated build time is between
4 & 6 months of evening work, so a work space will have to be put aside for the job. Do not remove parts from the CNC cut
sheets until actually required.
Carefully study the plans in conjunction with the instructions until you are confident to tackle each stage of construction.
Patience is the key word when building any model; treat each stage as a separate project and the overall effect of the completed
subject will be enhanced.
Recommended Tool List
1: Craft knife
2: A selection of needle files
3: Razor saw
4: Small wood plane
5: Pin vice or small electric drill (the latter is the more recommended item)
6: Selection of drill bitts from 0.5mm to 3mm
7: Selection of abrasive paper and sanding block
8: Selection of good quality paint brushes
9: Long nose pliers and wire cutters/snips
10: Good quality tweezers
11: Dividers or compass
12: Steel rule (300mm)
13: Clothes pegs or crocodile clips
14: Set-Square
15: Good quality pencil or Edding pen
16: Masking tape
17: Good quality sharp pair of small scissors
Paints, stains and adhesives
1: White PVA wood glue
2: Walnut wood stain for masts & booms (Admiralty Stains: Walnut, AS9105)
3: Cyanoacrelate (super glue) thick and medium viscosity (Admiralty Glues, Thick (AG9103) & Medium (AG9102))
4: Walnut wood filler
5: White spirit
6: Varnish to seal all unpainted wooden parts (Admiralty Varnishes: Matt, AV9110)
7: Black paint for ‘woodwork’ (Admiralty Paints: Dull Black, AP9105)
8: Black paint for ‘ironwork’ (Admiralty Paints: Matt (Metal) Black, AP9106)
9: White paint (Admiralty Paints: Matt White, AP9111)
10: Yellow ochre paint for ship’s boats (Admiralty Paints: Yellow Ochre, AP9115)
11: Red ochre paint (Admiralty Paints: Red Ochre, AP9116)
12: Copper paint (Admiralty Paints: Copper, AP9125)
13: Brown (wood/leather) paint (Admiralty Paints: Wood (Walnut) Brown, AP9119)
14: Metal primer for brass etched and turned brass parts (Admiralty Paints: Metal Primer, AP9205)
15: Black Indian ink
We highly recommend the use of Admiralty Paints; this is a new brand of paint which contains a specific range for 17th / 18th
/ 19th Century Man of War colours. This range of scale paints has been colour matched to the Admiralty colours, as still used
on HMS Victory in Portsmouth. Unlike other manufacturers, these are not toy paints and have been designed specifically for
use on model ships to give consistent coverage and colour.
Admiralty Paints are also available as high quality waterbased paints, if you prefer waterbased simply add W to the end of the
part number when ordering.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 3
Before You Begin
PLEASE READ: A great deal of time has gone into the production this manual to try to make the build process as clear and
straightforward as possible. It is important that you should read each stage of construction thoroughly before starting the
assembly. Many components can only be correctly fitted or positioned relative to other components and as such you may need
to reference previous or future stages of the build for this information as detailed within the instructions. We have also tried to
provide any required fundamental information as points of Note.
Before you start building this model a little forethought now will be well worth the time given to it throughout the building
process.
Although the majority of suggestions will be second nature to the more experienced modeller, this kit and others in the series,
can be built by the less experienced, given sufficient information.
The instructions and parts manual has been compiled to give as much information as practicable together with additional
diagrams, photos and a complete set of actual scale technical plans.
Wherever possible, we have tried to explain technical terms, in particular nautical terminology, but it pays to have a good
selection of reference books to hand. Any defined terms, to be found in the back of manual 2, are denoted with an asterisk like
thisuat their first usage within the manual.
At a scale of 1:64, the model has an overall size of 600mm (L) x 240mm (W) x 530mm (H) and you should consider this when
setting aside a work area for the build. You will also need regular access to both sides of the model, especially when rigging,
you will therefore need an area large enough to walk around the model or large enough to easily turn the model through 180
degrees without risking damage. Also ensure the cords for any power tools will not interfere with the model.
A 5mm ply stand is provided with the kit. This will primarily be used to support the hull during the build process. Ideally this
stand should be secured to an adequate baseboard. Upon completion, the model can be placed on a display stand of your
choice.
During the build it will be necessary to sand down large areas, after the first and second planking and at other stages, it is
therefore advisable to work in a well ventilated area and / or wear appropriate protection. The same applies when using paints,
stains, glues, fillers etc. Good lighting is also essential to the modelmaker.
The structural parts of the model are cut from high quality birch plywood, the remaining wood parts are cut from high quality
walnut ply and solid walnut sheet. It is advisable to leave all components in their sheets until actually required for fitting.
Take particular care when removing parts with a craft knife and ensure all parts are identified and marked with pencil before
removal. Lay the sheet from which you are going to cut the parts on a rigid flat cutting board for removal. Use a heavy-duty
craft knife with a good strong blade to cut through the tabs holding the parts in place, alternatively, when cutting brass or
copper parts, a good pair of stout scissors will suffice. It will also be an advantage to paint the brass etched fittings prior to
removal from the sheet; they can then be touched up again when in place.
Note: All metal components such as the brass etch, castings, cannons etc. should be primed with metal primer prior to
painting.
Before each stage of construction, study both the manual and the plans until you are confident in the task ahead.
The majority of the model will be painted during various stages of the build. It is important to think ahead to the next stage in
the construction process and paint the various parts at a convenient time, usually before securing on the model. It is often a
good idea to paint parts for the next stage and while they are drying you can be working on the current stage.
Wherever possible, offer the parts together in a ‘dry’ fit before final assembly.
Before Planking the Hull: A Note
In order that the final width of the planked hull will match the width of the stern post, some sanding will be required prior to
both first and second planking.
Before the first planking is applied as described on page 7:
1. Using Plan Sheet 1 for reference, mark the bearding lineuonto the keel.
2. Gently sand the shaded area, towards the sternu, until you have a taper that runs from 5mm wide at the bearding line
to 3mm wide at the stern.
3. Continue as instructed with the first planking and upon completion the width at the stern will be 5mm.
Before the second planking is applied as described on page 9:
1. Note the bearding line onto the first planking, again using Plan Sheet 1 for reference.
2. Gently sand the shaded area, towards the stern, until you have a taper from the bearding line to 3mm wide at the stern.
3. Continue as instructed with the second planking and upon completion the width at the stern will again be 5mm.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
4
Initial Hull Construction
Remove the main keel (10) from the 5mm ply sheet together with the 5mm walnut pieces, the stem (25), the false keel (26) and
the stern post (27).
Although the stern post should be identified and removed, it should not be glued into position until a later stage having regard
to the foregoing instructions re: the keel and hull reduction from the bearding line to stern post, on page 3.
Cut out the ‘Stem Hole Locations’ diagram from Plan Sheet 6 and position it onto the stem. The two 1mm holes for the
bobstays should be drilled and the gammoning slot should be formed by drilling a series of 1.5mm holes and opening them out
with a needle file.
Glue the stem and false keel into position along the ply keel using PVA wood glue, the stern post should be ‘dry’ fitted for
alignment. It is important that this whole structure remains perfectly flat, straight and in line whilst drying. Tape and or small
clamps can be used to assist.
Note: The undersides of the keel (10) and the false keel (26) have a slight downward curve toward the afteruend – this is
correct, do not attempt to ‘flatten’ the curve.
A suitable building board should be considered at this point. Construct the board from MDF or similar sturdy material. The
board should be long enough and wide enough to protect the model throughout construction. Consideration should also be
given to the way in which the model will be displayed; it is recommended that using a 3mm drill, drill two holes vertically up
into the keel centrally, one between bulkheads 5 and 6 (take care to drill this hole aftuof the main mast locating slot), and one
centrally between bulkheads 3 and 4. Drill each of these holes approximately 20mm deep and glue a piece of 5mm scrap wood
to either side of the keel, at the hole, but positioned approximately 5mm from the bottom of the ply keel so as not to interfere
with the planking. Upon completion of the model, two brass or stainless steel rods can be used to support it on your chosen
display board.
Identify and remove bulkheads 1-9 (1 – 9), from the 5mm ply sheet, together with the false deck (13).
Note: The cabin roof support bulkhead (14) is not used during this building sequence; it will be fitted and glued at a later stage.
Clean out any debris from the slots of the bulkheads and the keel and push fit the bulkheads into position making sure that they
sit firmly and squarely into the keel, the false deck should also be positioned at this stage. Bulkhead 8 has a profiled ‘F’ in one
face; this should be positioned to face forwardu(Photo 001). Bulkhead 9 has a profiled slot along the lower edge and this slot
should be positioned to face aft (Photo 002).
Photo 001
Photo 002
Note: Take particular care in the location of bulkhead 2, that it is positioned into the correct corresponding slot in the keel. It
could easily be confused with the slot for the fore mast.
Once that you are happy with their fit, bulkheads 1-8 can be glued into position, ensuring that they remain level athwartshipsu
and at right angles to the keel, they must also be parallel to each other, do not glue bulkhead 9 at this stage. The false deck
should also be glued into position after having marked the centreline, fore-and-aftu, along its length – this will aid the planking
applied at a later stage. This entire structure should now be put to one side and allowed to dry thoroughly.
Identify and remove, from the 5mm ply sheet, the plank termination patterns (11 & 12). They should be glued into position as
shown on Plan Sheet 1 and (Photo 003). Care should be taken to ensure the bottom edge of the groove in the foremost plank
termination patterns (11) is positioned level with the top of the keel (10) (Photos 003 & 004).
Note: The grooves in the foremost plank termination patterns (11) should also be positioned to face outboardu– this will help
with their removal at a later stage. Due to the need to remove the area of the pattern, above the groove, it is important that no
glue is allowed to bond the pattern to the walnut stem (25) above this groove.
The outer stern extensions (41) can now be identified and removed from the 3mm ply sheet and glued into position in the
outboard slots, after face, of bulkhead 9. The inner stern extensions (40) can be left off the model until a later stage, reducing
the risk of damage.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 5
Photo 003
Note: The kit stem is walnut not birch ply as shown.
Photo 004
Gunport Patterns
The gunport patterns (115) should now be identified and removed from the 0.8mm ply sheet. These patterns will be glued into
position in conjunction with the first lower planking of 1x4mm lime. However, it is important that this whole section ‘Gunport
Patterns’ should be read through and understood prior to any fitting. The gunport patterns themselves form an integral part of
the building process.
Identify and remove the gunport pattern former (15) from the 5mm ply sheet. This former is pinned, not glued, into position
(Photo 008) and the plank termination patterns and bulkheads 1 and 2 will fit ‘into’ the profiled slots of this former.
Note: Bulkhead 1 will not seat fully into the profiled slot of the former – this is correct, do not try to remove material from the
termination patterns or bulkhead 2 (Photo 004).
With the keel and bulkhead assembly thoroughly dried, some bevellinguof the bulkheads and plank termination patterns will
be required. Using a length of 1x4mm lime, lay the strip along the edges of the bulkheads and form it around the shape of the
hull. You should clearly be able to see where the bevelling will be required to allow the strip to sit ‘flush’ against each
bulkhead.
Note: The area to be bevelled also includes the location of the gunport pattern.
It will be necessary to bevel the forward edges of bulkheads 1 & 2, the after edges of bulkheads 7 & 8 and both the underside
and after edges of bulkhead 9. The termination patterns, fitted previously, should also be bevelled accordingly.
Note: By looking down on the gunport pattern former you will clearly see the area of bulkheads 1 and 2 that require removal,
it is important that the outside curve of the gunport pattern former is followed, by the bulkhead bevelling, without removing
any material from the former itself (Photo 005).
Photo 005
Photo 006
Note: The profiled slot in the after face of bulkhead 9 (Photo 002) denotes the ‘true’ lower edge of this bulkhead. It will
therefore require bevelling from the forward lower face back to this slot – the bevelled area will then provide ample surface
area for terminating the planking against (Photo 006). With the bevelling achieved, bulkhead 9 can also be glued into place on
the keel and should be positioned as far forward as its locating ‘notch’ will allow.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
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With the gunport pattern former fitted to the keel and bulkhead assembly, soak the front of the gunport pattern, from the
second gunport forward, in water for approximately 20 minutes. Once soaked, the forward end can be shaped around the
former flush against the bulkheads. The pattern should be dry fitted into position taking care of the following points:
1. The front leading edge of the pattern should be slightly bevelled to allow the pattern to sit flush against the stem.
2. Any excess in the length of the pattern should be removed from the after end such that it sits flush to the after
edge of the outer stern extension pattern, this is essential and must be achieved.
3. The top edge of the gunport pattern should run flush to the top edge of the bulkheads along the entire length, with
the exception of bulkhead 9 (Photo 007).
4. When viewed from above, the gunport pattern should follow the curve of the gunport pattern former as shown
(Photo 008).
5. When viewed from the side it is important to note that the gunport pattern follows the top edge of the bulkheads,
not the top edge of the gunport pattern former as shown (Photo 009).
6. The curves in the after end of the gunport pattern should be aligned, athwartships, with the curves of the outer
stern extensions (41) (Photo 010).
7. Care should be taken to ensure the portuand starboardugunports are in alignment fore-and-aft, i.e. the port and
starboard gunports should be aligned athwartships.
Photo 007
Photo 008
Photo 009
Photo 010
Note: Gunports 1 through to 6 should not be opened up at this stage. If you attempt to open them up prior to fitting the patterns
the patterns will distort.
After a dry fit, the pattern should be pinned and glued (with PVA wood glue and flat head pins (184)) into position along the
edges of the bulkheads and bulkhead uprights, all the while adhering to the shape of the bulkheads.
Note: Although the bulkhead uprights will be broken off at deck level during a later stage of construction full use of wood glue
and flat head pins should be used. As the plywood bulkheads are very strong, it is recommended that 0.5mm holes be drilled
into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the brass pins into place, leave at least 3mm protruding so
that they can be easily removed once the patterns are secure.
This procedure should be repeated for the opposite side taking care that both patterns are symmetrical, checking across the hull
to ensure that the gunport cut outs of each pattern (port and starboard) are aligned to those opposite. This whole assembly
should now be set aside to dry thoroughly, offer support to the assembly to prevent distortion.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 7
First Planking
Having tapered the keel from the bearding line aft as previously instructed on page 3, the first planking, of 1x4mm lime, can be
started below the gunport pattern.
The first plank to be laid each side will run flush below the gunport pattern, noting that it will begin to ‘turn in’ at bulkhead 8
(turning from vertical to horizontal) and will be fully horizontal against the underside of bulkhead 9 (Photo 011). This plank
should not require any tapering front or back. This plank and all of the first planking should be pinned, with flat head pins
(184), and glued into position with PVA wood glue. As the plywood bulkheads are very strong, it is recommended that 0.5mm
holes be drilled into the bulkheads before the insertion of the pins. When pushing the brass pins into the planks and bulkheads,
leave at least 3mm protruding so that they can be easily removed once the planks are secure.
Note: All planks should be allowed to extend for a short distance past the after face of bulkhead 9 (Photo 010 & 011); they
will be trimmed back, together, at a later stage.
The second plank and the remainder of the first planking is also 1x4mm lime and will run the whole length of the hull bearing
in mind the following points:
1. Ensure all bulkhead bevelling has been achieved.
2. The planking will commence from the underside of the first plank laid, down to the keel.
3. Before pinning and gluing the lime planking into position, it should be soaked in water for a short period. This
will assist in both the shaping of the plank around the hull and the tapering of the plank.
4. At the bows, the planking should lie against the already bevelled plank termination patterns and butt up against
the stem. For guidance, the lime planking will follow the line of the gunport pattern.
5. On the underside of the hull, the inboardusides of the final planks will butt up against the false keel.
6. The first seven planks laid each side will be fitted, horizontally, against the underside of bulkhead 9. The eighth
plank laid each side will run onto the keel, vertically, terminating at the top of the bearding line (Photo 011).
7. You should lay two or three planks on the port or starboard side, then turn the hull and lay two or three planks on
the opposite side and continue this alternating port / starboard method in order to prevent the keel being pulled
out of line.
Note: For best results, all planks should be allowed to lie naturally, do not try to artificially bend them with nippers / plank
benders, or force them into position. As you start down to the curved side of the bow, the planks will need to be tapered to
follow their natural run. In order to determine the amount of taper required for each plank to lie naturally, dry fit the plank
from the 4th bulkhead around to the bow; mark the excess area of the plank that overlaps the plank immediately above it. This
process should be repeated to determine any overlap for the stern also.
Before cutting the taper into the planks, soak them in water for an hour or so as this will minimise the chance of the knife blade
following the grain of the wood rather than the edge of the steel rule.
Lay the first wet plank to be tapered on a clean, flat surface (a cutting mat is ideal). Press firmly with a steel rule onto the
marked taper line on the plank and score down the line with a heavy-duty craft knife several times until the excess is cut off
(do not attempt to cut the plank in one pass!).
Use this planking method right down the hull. When planking is almost complete you will notice triangular shaped gaps at the
stern (and bow to a lesser degree). This was also the case in full size practise, although not so simplified. The use of triangular
shaped planks (called stealersu) are needed for these gaps. Cut these to shape using the excess limewood from the ends of the
planking and glue them into the gaps (Photo 012 shows the second planking but the same applies for the first planking).
With the first planking completed trim the excess planking, extending beyond bulkhead 9, to shape flush against the after edge
of bulkhead 9. Apply a coat of watered down PVA wood glue to the inside surface of the first planking and leave the hull to
fully cure for at least 24 hours.
The next stage is to sand the hull with a coarse grade abrasive paper, followed by a medium grade. This will obviously entail a
few hours work but it will form the basis for the second planking, remember to remove all pins (184) before sanding begins.
The building cradle (17 – 19) can now be constructed; ideally this should be squarely and firmly secured to a building board.
Photo 011
Photo 012

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
8
The Stern Counter
Identify and remove the inner stern extensions (40) from the 3mm ply sheet, these should be glued into position in the inboard
slots across the after face of bulkhead 9. Ensure the stern extensions are at right angles to the bulkhead and that they run
parallel, that is to say there should be a gap of 6mm between them both at the lowest and uppermost points. Identify and
remove the stern counter (117) from the 0.8mm ply sheet. Soak the counter in water for half an hour then dry fit it centrally
across the curved surfaces of the gunport pattern, inner and outer stern extensions such that the upper edge runs flush with the
change of angle in the stern extensions. With the counter correctly centralised and conforming to the curve against which it is
fitted, the inner stern extensions should not foul the central slot of the counter (Photo 013). The lower edge of the counter
should run flush with the after ends of the first planking, flush with the after face of bulkhead 9 (if not already done, the ends
of the first planking will require trimming to achieve this). When you are happy with the positioning of the counter, it can be
pinned and glued into position (Photo 014).
At this stage you will notice that the stern counter extends beyond the gunport patterns athwartships and also stands proud of
the after end of the first planking by 0.8mm. Gently sand the outboard edges back to the gunport patterns. Temporarily fit the
stern post (27) into position and, using 0.5x4mm walnut, plank the stern counter athwartships, clearing the slot for the rudder
and stern post as you progress ensuring that, where the planks meet the stern post they form a flush fit (Photo 015). Upon
completion, trim the outboard edges of this planking flush to the gunport patterns and remove the stern post. You will also find
that the top edge of the uppermost planks will extend beyond the curved shape of the stern counter; this edge should be
trimmed back while offering the stern facia (77) into position to ensure that they featheruinto one another.
Note: The stern fascia (77) should only be offered into position at this stage, it will not be finally fitted until instructed, after
completion of the second planking.
Photo 013
Photo 014
Photo 015
Photo 016

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 9
Second Planking and the Wale
The second planking is laid using 1x4mm walnut, as always the planking should be soaked for a short period before being
required. The gluing of the second planking differs from the first as the whole under surface of the walnut strip is glued to the
surface of the first planking as well as edge to edge. Also, the best glue to use for the second planking is medium super glue.
This is to avoid the use of pins, eliminating pinholes that would have to be filled prior to finishing. Super glue will stick the
planks as well, if not better than, PVA wood glue. Around the bow area, where the walnut strip has been soaked in water, take
extra care – wet wood and super glue will bond more or less instantly! Great care is needed to attain as neat a job as possible to
minimise the need for filling.
Before progressing, taper the first planking from the bearding line aft as previously instructed on page 3, the effects of this
taper, for the first planking, can be seen in (Photos 011 & 013).
The first plank to be laid, of the second planking, should be positioned as shown on Plan Sheet 1 (still 1x4mm walnut) the
vital measurements are as follows:
1. At the after end, the lower edge should be positioned 4mm above the lower edge of the gunport pattern.
2. Passing forward, the top edge of the plank will run 0.5mm below the seventh through to the second gunports.
3. At the bows the plank will begin to run upwards, following its natural lie, do not attempt to prevent this. Its top
edge will foul the bottom of the first gunport by approximately 1mm and continue its natural run flush into the
stem. Where this plank meets the stem, its top edge will be approximately 6mm below the top of the gunport
pattern (taking into account minor build differences). The area of this plank fouling the first gunport should be
cleared.
Once this first walnut strip has been laid, a second plank should be laid directly beneath it. Neither of these first two planks
should be bevelled.
This second plank now fitted also forms the basis of the waleu. The wale is from 1.5x4mm walnut which should now be fitted
directly onto this second plank. At a time of your choosing the wale should be painted dull black.
The second planking, below the wale, can now be continued with 1x4mm walnut. Work down the hull on alternative sides
when planking, until you reach the false keel. The same principles as applied to the first planking should be adhered to. The
planks which run vertically onto the after end of the stern extensions should be allowed to extend a short distance beyond the
after edge of the stern counter – this will then be trimmed back upon completion (Photo 016). The planking on the after
horizontal edge (underside of bulkhead 9) should form a flush fit to the stern counter planking (Photos 015 & 016). As with the
vertical planking at the stern extensions, the vertical planking at the after end of the keel should extend a short distance beyond
the after vertical edge of the keel – this will then be trimmed back upon completion of the planking to allow the stern post to be
fitted. This is best achieved while continually offering the stern post into position and adjusting accordingly.
Once the planking below the wale is completed, the area above the wale can be planked, remembering to clear the gunports as
you progress. The final plank laid will extend over the top upper edge of the gunport pattern and should be sanded back down
flush to the pattern (Photos 017 & 018).
Note: There is a small ‘lip’ directly above and behind gunport 6 which must be maintained (Photo 019).
As before, the after end of these planks should be allowed to extend just beyond the after edge of the gunport pattern and
trimmed back, together, upon completion.
The stern post should now be permanently fixed into position.
Photo 017
Photo 018
Photo 019

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
10
The Waterline
The waterlineushould now be marked onto the hull. As can be seen from Plan Sheet 1, the waterline would appear to be non-
conforming, that is to say it does not run parallel to the keel. Below the waterline, as our research has shown, would have been
covered with ‘white stuff’u, therefore the hull below the waterline should be painted matt white.
In order to assist in the marking of the waterline, a small waterline jig (16) has been designed. The two holes drilled into the
keel for the stand supporting rods should also be used during the following procedure.
Using a sufficiently large and flat surface, mdf / chipboard or similar, drill two holes the same distance apart as those in the
keel and the same diameter as the supporting rods into this surface. The after rod should allow the hull to rest on the flat
surface; the foremost rod will have to be longer to allow the keel to rise off the surface.
Identify and remove the waterline jig (16) from the 5mm ply sheet and clear the slot of any debris so that it will fit around the
false keel. Referring to Plan Sheet 3, the jig should be positioned at a point 220mm from the after edge of the false keel; this
will raise the bows, at this position, 16mm off the flat surface. Throughout this procedure the aftermost point of the false keel
should remain in contact with the flat surface, forming the pivot point, it is not raised.
The hull should be adequately supported using small blocks and set square, and must be able to support the hull so that the
prowuand the stern post are perpendicular to the base board throughout the procedure, i.e. the hull should remain perfectly
upright.
Using a vernier gauge or similar device (wooden block etc.), set the gauge so that the pencil held by the device is 52mm above
the flat surface. Drag the device around the hull, marking out the waterline as you progress. The waterline should be equal both
sides, if the hull is held correctly with the keel remaining perpendicular to the base, it will be.
Using masking tape, mask off the area above this line and paint the area below matt white. The area of the exposed walnut
stem, above the waterline, should be painted dull black.
The False Deck
The central portion of the false deck, previously fitted between bulkheads 6 and 8, will be visible through the main
companionwayuon the completed model. It is therefore necessary to plank this area with 1x4mm Tanganyika strip. The
planking should be started at the centre line of the deck, progressing outboard until flush against the upright of bulkhead 7.
Sand and varnish the deck planking upon completion.
The Upper Gun Deck
Before the upper gun deck can be fitted, it is necessary to remove the bulkhead stubs above deck level. Using (Photos 20 – 24)
for reference, this is achieved as follows:
1. Using a razor saw or similar, carefully cut through the bulkhead stub as close to deck level as possible. Care should be
taken not to cut through the gunport pattern or hull planking, however, small scratches are not a problem as they will
be covered by the inner bulwarkuplanking.
2. Using a pair of long nosed pliers, grip and gently twist the bulkhead stub back and forth until it comes away from the
gunport pattern.
3. With the stub removed any remaining splinters of the stub can be cut away with a sharp scalpel or by sanding. Any
remaining height of the stub should also be sanded back until it follows the camberuof the bulkhead deck support.
Note: Great care should be taken when removing the bulkhead stubs near to the gunports. It is important that the forward, after
and lower edges remain clean and straight.
The area of the foreuplank termination patterns, above the profiled slot, also require removal following the same principles but
there is no need to saw through them – this has been effectively achieved by the profiled slot. Take care not to damage either
the hull planking or the walnut stem.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 11
Photo 020
Photo 021
Photo 022
Photo 023
Photo 024
Note: (Photos 20 – 24) are of another model but the process is identical.
With the bulkhead stubs removed, the gunports one through to six can be properly opened up by cutting down through the first
5mm of 0.8mm ply, again care should be taken to ensure that these fore and after edges of the gunports remain clean and
straight.
Note: Do not attempt to cut down to the last (seventh) gunport; this gunport is already at its correct size and position.
Identify and remove the upper gun deck (116), from the 0.8mm ply sheet.
Before fitting the gun deck, mark on and draw a centre line along its length, with this done, offer the ply deck into position and
check for any high spots across the bulkheads, noticing that there is a clear camber across the bulkheads which must be
maintained. It is also advisable to note the areas below the deck which will be visible through the various hatches etc. and for
these areas of the keel and bulkheads to be painted dull black; this will hide the birch ply components on the completed model
and give a feeling of depth to the hatches etc.
Note: Do not paint the false deck planking black.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
12
When satisfied with the fit, pin and glue the deck into position noting the following points:
1. The locating holes, in the deck, for the masts must sit directly and centrally over their respective holes in the keel.
2. The holes for the main companionway and main hatch should also be positioned over the lowered sections of the
keel.
3. The after end of the deck extends through the cut out section of bulkhead 8.
4. The centre line should be positioned to the top; it will be required during the planking of the deck.
The Upper Gun Deck Planking
Identify and temporarily fit the cabin roof support bulkhead (14) into position on the keel. The upper gun deck is planked with
1x4mm Tanganyika. As shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Deck Planking’, the first planks to be laid on the upper gun deck should run
fore-and-aft along either side of the centre line previously marked. They should run the full length of the deck, from tight
against the stem / inner bulwarks at the bows and back level with the forward face of the cabin roof support bulkhead.
Continue to plank the deck outboard to each bulwark, remembering to cut the openings for the masts and hatches etc. as you
progress. All deck planking should be trimmed to fit as tightly as possible to the inner bulwarks, although gaps of less than
1mm can be covered by the 1mm inner bulwark planking fitted at a later stage.
When the planking is complete, apply a coat of varnish to seal. The cabin roof support bulkhead can now be set safely aside.
Note: For added authenticity you can lay the planks with a butt shiftu, in this case a ‘three-butt shift’, as shown on Plan Sheet
2, ‘Three Butt Shift System’, in this case the planks should either be cut to a length of 140mm or laid full length and the joint
line, every 140mm, scored into the plank with a sharp knife (visually, this latter method often looks the most appealing). The
end of each subsequent plank should then be offset from its neighbour by 35mm such that each aligned plank end is separated
by three planks.
Inner Bulwark Planking
Identify and remove the captain’s cabin screen (75) from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. The recessed window frame in the captain’s
cabin screen should be cleaned ready to accept the acetate and brass etched frame.
Offer the captain’s cabin screen into position across the front of bulkhead 8; noting that the window is offset to starboard and
the door is offset to port. Pay particular attention to the following points:
1. The deck planking, onto which the base of the captain’s cabin screen sits, should be inspected to ensure a flush fit
– any high spots should be removed from the planking.
2. The upper edge of the captain’s cabin screen should be flush with the upper edge of bulkhead 8 – Any material
that needs to be removed to achieve this should be taken from the bottom of the screen.
3. The screen should be fitted centrally across the bulkhead; some sanding of the outer edges may be required.
When you are happy with the fit of the captain’s cabin screen, preparation can be made for the fitting of the captain’s cabin
window frame and glazing acetate.
Identify the glazing acetate (187) and cut a square to fit into the recessed window of the captain’s cabin screen. Alternatively, a
piece of acetate can be cut and secured across the after face of the cabin screen at the location of the window. In either case,
PVA should be used to prevent discoloration of the acetate.
Identify and remove the captain’s cabin window frame (135) from the 0.5mm brass etched sheet. The frame, and also the
captain’s cabin screen should be painted red ochre at a time of your choosing.
With the acetate in place, the window frame should be fitted. The frame is fitted over the acetate and also into the recessed
window of the captain’s cabin screen, securing in place with PVA wood glue.
Note: The vertical and horizontal window frame dividers are profiled and they should be orientated so that the flush face is
against the acetate and the profiling is visible on the model.
Note: Do not use cyanoacrylate (super glue) for securing either the acetate or the brass frame as it will discolour the acetate.
Note: The captain’s cabin doors are not fitted until a later stage.
The completed captain’s cabin screen can now be fitted onto the model.
The inner bulwark is planked with 1x4mm walnut. The first plank should be started at the bottom of the bulwark, flush against
the deck and will run from flush against the forward face of the captain’s cabin screen forward to the bows in one continuous
length, as normal the planking can be soaked in water to aid construction.
Continue planking up the bulwark, clearing the gunports as you progress.
At a time of your choosing, the inner bulwarks together with the gunport sides and base should be painted red ochre.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 13
Upper Gun Deck Gratings, Hatches and Coamings
Starting from the bows, the first opening to be lined is the forward hatch (Photo 025) as shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Fore Hatch
Assembly’. It is situated behind the foremast and should be lined with 2x3mm walnut and fitted with a grating. The 2x3mm
liningsushould be orientated such that the lining is 2mm wide and stands 3mm from the deck. The lining will be secured
directly to the deck planking but should be cut and dry fitted initially, with the inside face of the lining flush to the inside edges
of the fore hatch cut out – this will result in the opening for the forward hatch remaining at 18mm by 14mm. The athwartships
head ledgesuwill extend beyond the ends of the fore-and-aft coamingsuand be trimmed flush to the outboard edges of the fore-
and-aft coamings as shown.
When you are happy with the fit of the linings they should be removed from the model. Make up a grating set from the grating
strips (196) which are to be slotted together as shown (Fig 001) and, when completed, brush on watered down PVA glue to
secure the strips. Once dry, trim and sand the grating to measure approximately 18mm by 14mm, two notches should also be
cut from the grating as shown (these will later accommodate the anchor cable). With the grating made up and trimmed to size,
glue the coamings and head ledges around the outside edge, remembering their correct orientation and ensuring that both the
top and bottom faces of the grating are flush with the top and bottom edges of the lining (some sanding may be required to
reduce the thickness of the grating). When thoroughly dried, this whole assembly can be glued into position over the locating
opening in the deck noting that the two notches should be orientated to the after end of the model.
Photo 025
Photo 026
As shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Main Hatch Assembly’, the main hatch (Photo 026) is next to be lined with 2x3mm walnut
orientated as per the forward hatch lining but the main hatch also requires a ‘recessed’ lining of 1.5x1.5mm walnut onto which
the main hatch covers will sit (Photo 027). In a similar manner to the forward hatch linings, the 1.5x1.5mm walnut will be
secured directly to the deck planking but should be cut and dry fitted initially, with the inside face of the 1.5x1.5mm walnut
flush to the inside edges of the main hatch cut out – this will result in the opening for the main hatch remaining at 22mm by
19mm. The athwartships head ledges will extend beyond the outboard edges of the fore-and-aft coamings as before. When you
are happy with the fit of the 1.5x1.5mm recessed lining, the lining proper can be cut and dry fitted from 2x3mm walnut. Again
this will be secured directly to the deck planking and tight against the outside of the 1.5x1.5mm recess lining, thus forming a
1.5mm rebate. As before, the athwartships head ledges will extend beyond the outboard edges of the fore-and-aft coamings.
When you are happy with the fit of these components they can be glued together and secured onto the model.
Note: It is important that the distance fore-and-aft, within the 2x3mm linings measures 25mm in order that the five main hatch
covers, cut from 1.5x5mm walnut, will form a tight fit.
The main hatch covers can now be cut and fitted. Using 1.5x5mm walnut cut the covers to length (approximately 22mm) to fit
tightly athwartships within the main hatch lining, five are required in total. Once the covers have been cut and you are happy
with their fit they should be fitted with ringboltsuconstructed from pairs of copper eyelets (180). Gently open one copper
eyelet enough to pass the ring of a second copper eyelet through, with the second copper eyelet in position, gently re-close the
first eye and trim the ‘stem’ off one eyelet. Repeat this until you have ten ringbolts and paint matt (metal) black. Drill 0.65mm
holes through each end of the main hatch covers, centrally fore-and-aft and approximately 2mm in from each end, to take the
ringbolts. When the ringbolts have been fitted to the covers, trim the ‘stem’ flush with the bottom face of the cover and fit to
the model – the covers can be shown either open or closed (Photos 026 & 027) to your own preference but bear in mind that
the ships boats will be positioned over the main hatch at a later stage.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
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Photo 027
Photo 028
As shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Companionway Assembly’, the main companionway (Photo 028) is next to be lined but this
process differs slightly from the foregoing instructions. Identify and remove the companionway ladder sides (85) from the
1.5mm walnut sheet. The treads of the ladders are cut from 1x5mm walnut cut to a length of approximately 8mm to give an
overall width to the assembled ladder of 10mm, to fit tightly into the main companionway opening.
To assemble the ladders, slot a tread into the top and bottom of each ladder side and glue them into place, ideally a small jig
should be made to keep the assembly square. When dry, the remaining treads can then be pushed into the slots and brushed
with watered down PVA. Varnish to seal the assembly.
When the assembly is thoroughly dry, it can be dry fitted onto the model. Pass the lower end of the ladder down through the
main companionway opening until it is seated onto the false deck below, the top of the ladder should now be seated against the
after face of the main companionway opening and flush with the top of the upper gun deck planking, any sanding required to
achieve this should be taken from the bottom of the ladder. When you are happy with the fit of the ladder it can be glued into
place.
The main companionway linings of 2x3mm walnut can now be constructed, again these will be secured directly to the deck
planking but should be cut and dry fitted initially, with the inside face of the lining flush to the inside edges of the main
companionway opening – this will result in the opening for the main companionway remaining at 14mm by 10mm. The
athwartships head ledges will extend beyond the outboard edges of the fore-and-aft coamings. When you are happy with their
fit they can be secured in place. The recessed lining of 1.5x1.5mm walnut can now be cut and fitted. This lining can not be
secured to the deck planking as before but instead will be secured to the inner faces of the 2x3mm main hatch lining, it should
also be noted that the after recessed head ledge is not fitted – only the side coamings and fore head ledge are required. When
you are happy with their fit they should be secured in place with their upper face 1.5mm below the upper face of the 2x3mm
lining. With the 1.5x1.5mm recessed lining in place, the main companionway opening will measure 12.5x7mm.
The main companionway cover will be constructed and fitted at a later stage as it is a delicate structure.
Fig 001

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 15
The Stern Fascia
Identify and remove the transom cabin roof support (65) from the 2mm walnut sheet, together with the stern fascia (77) from
the 1.5mm walnut sheet.
When the stern fascia is fitted it should be orientated such that the profiled slots for the acetate and window frames are exposed
(facing aft), as with the captain’s cabin screen it is of benefit to clean these recesses ready to accept the acetate and brass
etched frame – these are not to be fitted at this stage but preparation is best achieved off the model now.
With thought toward the following instructions for fitting the stern fascia (specifically point 1 below), glue the transom cabin
roof support into place across the top of the stern extensions (Photo 029).
Note: It will be of benefit to slightly bevel the upper edge of the transom cabin roof support, ready to accept the cabin roof
planking of 1x4mm walnut, prior to gluing in place, a temporarily positioned plank should be used to help gauge the bevel
required.
With the stern cabin roof support fitted, temporarily offer the stern fascia up centrally across the stern extensions, there are
several points of reference to note when doing this as follows:
1. The forward face of the stern fascia will be glued to the after face of the transom cabin roof support as well as the
stern extensions.
2. The top edge of the stern fascia should be positioned approximately 1.5mm above the top edge of the stern cabin
roof support – the use of crocodile clips or similar to help position the fascia is recommended.
3. If not achieved previously, the edges of the stern counter planking will require trimming and bevelling to ensure a
tight, clean fit with the lower edge of the stern fascia (the lower edge of the fascia should also be bevelled to
achieve this).
4. The athwartships convexucurve formed across the stern extensions should be maintained.
5. The inner most fascia window openings should have their inner edges equally spaced just outboard of inner stern
extensions; the stern extensions should not foul any of the windows (Photo 030).
6. The outboard edges of the stern fascia will extend just beyond the outer hull planking – this is correct and should
not be trimmed. However, the uppermost after point of the hull planking should closely intersect the edge of the
stern fascia as can be seen in (Photo 029).
When you are happy with the dry fit of the fascia it can be glued into place. Once thoroughly dry it is recommended that the
area between bulkhead 9 and the inner face of the stern fascia be painted dull black – this will hide the ply components, giving
a feeling of depth to the cabin when viewed through the stern windows.
Photo 029
Photo 030
At this stage consideration should be given to the way in which you will glaze the windows. It can either be done by cutting 5
individual pieces to fit into the recessed window frames or two lengths can be cut and secured across the inside face of the
stern fascia. In either case, PVA should be used to prevent discoloration of the acetate.
Identify the stern fascia window frames (149) on the 0.5mm brass etched sheet and paint them matt white. Do not remove the
window frames from the sheet at this stage, the frames are orientated on the brass sheet in their correct order for fitting but are
so similar in size that they could be easily mixed up. One window frame at a time should be removed and fitted, with PVA
wood glue, into its profiled locating slot in the stern fascia.
Note: The vertical and horizontal window frame dividers are profiled and they should be orientated so that the flush face is
against the acetate and the profiling is visible on the model.
Identify and remove the stern fascia surrounds, upper (78) and lower (79), from the 1.5mm walnut sheet. Dry fit the surrounds
onto the after face of the fascia ensuring they fit flush to the outboard edges of the fascia (Photo 030). When you are happy
with their fit they can be glued into place. At a time of your choosing the surrounds (not the fascia) should be painted dull
black.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
16
Identify the ‘BADGER’ text (141) on the 0.5mm brass etch sheet and paint them matt white. It should be noted that the text
has been arranged on the brass sheet at exactly the required spacing for fitting on the model, you may wish to make a tracing or
similar of this for reference when fitting.
Identify the ‘BADGER’ text former (161) on the brass etched sheet. This is provided as a template to temporarily fix across the
stern fascia with masking tape and the upper curved edge is the correct arc required for the ‘BADGER’ text to follow. The
former should be temporarily fitted bearing in mind the following points:
1. The lower edge of the upper curved shape should be flush along the top edge of the central window frames.
2. The lower protruding edge fits precisely between the central window frames.
With the template temporarily secured the ‘BADGER’ text can be glued into position, with PVA, along the top curved edge of
the template, once secured the template can be removed.
The Capping Rails
Note: Take care during the removal, trimming and fitting of all capping railsu, not to split them along the grain of the walnut –
if this happens you should be able to glue the parts back together cleanly but this is best avoided if possible.
Identify and remove the forward capping rails (45) from the 3mm walnut sheet. Temporarily secure the rails into position
bearing in mind the following points:
1. The capping rails should be orientated so that the profiled slots (for the timberheadsuand knightheadsu) are to the
top, i.e. they should remain exposed.
2. The foremost ends of the capping rails should be separated by 5mm – to accommodate the bowsprit at a later
stage. For reference a gap of 5mm will mean that the ends of the capping rails are flush to the outer faces of the
5mm walnut stem. No material should be removed from the foremost ends of the forward capping rails.
3. The capping rails will overhang the inner bulwark planking by 1.5mm and be sanded flush to the outer hull
planking.
4. The aftermost end of the capping rails will need to be trimmed to fit tight against the step in the hull side.
5. The capping rails also form the top lining of the gunports 1 through to 6.
When you are happy with the fit of the forward capping rails they can be pinned and/or glued into position.
Note: The capping rail steps and after capping rails are to be fitted in conjunction with one another, it is important therefore
that you read and understand all of the following fitting instructions before proceeding.
Identify and remove the after capping rails (47) from the 3mm walnut sheet. These rails should now be dry fitted only, bearing
in mind the following points:
1. The aftermost ends of the rails should be gently bevelled in order that they will sit flush against the forward face
of the stern fascia.
2. The inboard edge of the rails will overhang the inner bulwark planking by 1.5mm.
Note: This overhang applies only to the area forward of the captain’s cabin screen – the area previously planked. The area aft
of the captain’s cabin screen will have a resultant 2.5mm overhang as it lacks the 1x4mm inner bulwark planking.
3. The outboard edge of the rails should be sanded flush to the outer hull planking.
Identify and remove the inboard capping rail steps (35), from the 4mm walnut sheet and the outboard capping rail steps (46)
from the 3mm walnut sheet. Using Plan Sheet 2, ‘Capping Rail Step Assembly’ for reference, glue the inboard steps to the
outboard steps, such that their profiled faces are orientated away from each other, forming two components each 7mm thick,
one port and one starboard. Considering the foregoing instructions for fitting the after capping rails, the capping rail steps can
now also be dry fitted, bearing in mind the following points:
1. The outboard capping rail step will overhang the outer hull planking by 1.5mm. This overhang (forming the
upper sheer railu) is formed by the 1.5mm relief already introduced by the pre-cut profiling of this component.
IMPORTANT, see note below.
Note: The 1.5mm overhang (forming the upper sheer rail) of the capping rail step, formed by the 1.5mm relief already
introduced by the pre-cut profiling will be continued aft using 1.5x1.5mm walnut strip. The 1.5x1.5mm walnut strip should be
secured flush against the after edge of the capping rail step ‘overhang’ and be secured against the after capping rail outboard
face, flush to the lower edge of this capping forming a continuation which runs back flush against the forward face of the stern
fascia. At this stage the sheer rail will protrude beyond the outboard profile of the stern fascia – do not reduce the sheer rail, it
will become contained within the profile when the stern fascia capping is fitted at a later stage.
2. With the outboard capping rail step correctly positioned to overhang the hull by 1.5mm, the inboard capping rail
step should be overhanging the inner bulwark planking by approximately 2mm. This will be sanded back to
1.5mm in order to form a flush fit with the inboard face of the after capping rails.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 17
3. The steps should be gently sanded to ensure that they fit down flush onto both the forward capping rails and the
top of the bulwarks.
4. The steps should also fit back, tight against the ‘step’ in the bulwark, and tight against the forward face of the
after capping rails. In order to achieve this it will be necessary to gradually remove material from the forward end
of the after capping rails.
When you are happy with the fit of the after capping rails and the capping rail steps they can be secured into position, together,
on the model. The upper sheer rail, as described in the note above, should also be fitted now.
The middle sheer rail is formed from 1.5x1.5mm walnut. It runs the full length of the hull, from flush against the stem to flush
against the forward face of the stern fascia and is positioned as follows:
1. The bottom face of the sheer rail is flush to the bottom edge of the forward capping rail.
2. As with the forward capping rail, the sheer rail forms a continuation (outboard) of the top lining of the gunports.
3. At the point of the capping rail step, where the forward capping rail terminates, the sheer rail continues aft,
parallel to the 1.5x1.5mm upper sheer rail above, i.e. parallel to the after capping rail.
Note: Do not be tempted to fit the lower sheer rail, this is intersected by the channelsuand is best fitted together with the
channels at a later stage.
All of the capping rails and sheer rails are to be painted dull black at a time of your choosing.
The Captain’s Cabin Roof Planking
The cabin roof support bulkhead (14) can now be secured in place in the keel – it is vital that this is fitted vertically as well as
level athwartships to avoid deforming the shape of the cabin roof.
Referring to Plan Sheet 2, ‘Captain’s Cabin Roof Planking’, secure a piece of scrap material (5mm wide) directly against the
inner bulwark behind the captain’s cabin screen and also tight against the underside of the capping rail. With this scrap
material in place it will protrude a distance of approximately 2mm beyond the inboard edge of the after capping rail. A length
of 2x3mm walnut should be secured to the top of the 5mm wide scrap material, orientated 3mm wide and 2mm high. This will
form a recess of 1mm to the top inboard face of the after capping rail.
Note: This strip of 2x3mm walnut should run the entire length, from the after face of the captain’s cabin screen to the forward
face of the stern fascia. This strip forms a seating against which the cabin roof planking will finish and allows the top face of
the planking to form a flush finish with the top face of the after capping rail.
This next step is probably the most important, in order to attain as good a final result for the roof planking as possible, and as
such great care should be exercised. The width of the hull should be measured athwartships at the positions of the captain’s
cabin screen, the cabin roof support bulkhead and the stern fascia. With these measurements in hand it is necessary to mark the
centreline onto the captain’s cabin screen, cabin roof support bulkhead and stern fascia, in order to receive the first planks of
the cabin roof.
The cabin roof planking is from 1x4mm walnut. The first two planks to be laid should run from flush against the forward face
of the stern fascia (the ends of the planks should be bevelled to form a tight fit) (Photo 031) and extend forward, 2mm beyond
the forward face of the captains cabin screen. These two planks should be positioned one either side of the centreline
previously marked on the stern fascia, cabin roof support bulkhead and captain’s cabin screen.
Note: All of the cabin roof planks should be seated down onto the top surface of the transom cabin roof support, the cabin roof
support bulkhead and the captain’s cabin screen and as such some light bevelling of these surfaces will be required – while still
maintaining their individual cambers. A steel rule, or similar, can be held fore-and-aft along each plank to check for high/low
spots and the bevelling should be adjusted accordingly.
Note: Referring to Plan Sheet 2, ‘Cabin Roof Planking’, all of the cabin roof planks are to run dead straight fore-and-aft, they
do not splay out to follow the angle of the ship’s sides.
When fitting the cabin planks in place you may find it of benefit to glue some scrap material to the underside of the previous
plank laid, offset in order to form a ledge on which the adjoining plank can be supported.
As you lay each plank they should be individually trimmed at their forward edge, to terminate 2mm beyond the captain’s cabin
screen. It is best to trim each plank as it is laid rather than trimming them all upon completion.
As you work outward from the centreline to the ship’s side the outer planks will no longer extend aft to the stern fascia, instead
they are to be trimmed and shaped to terminate flush against the inboard face of the after capping rails and onto the recess
previously formed.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd.
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Photo 031
Photo 032
Inner Bulwark Fittings
Timberheads and Knightheads:
(Photo 032) Identify and remove the knightheads (49) from the 3mm walnut sheet, together with the timberheads (60) from the
2mm walnut sheet. The knightheads are to be secured into place in the foremost slots of the forward capping rails (one per
rail), orientated as shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Timberheads / Knightheads’, with the extended lug inboard.
The knightheads are secured into the remaining eight slots in the forward capping rails (four per side), they should also be
orientated as shown with the extended lug inboard.
Swivel Gun Pedestals:
In spite of only carrying two 0.5pdr swivel guns, there are ten swivel gun pedestals. Referring to Plan Sheet 2, ‘Inner
Bulwark Fittings’, five pedestals should be dry fitted against each bulwark with the following considerations:
1. Each pedestal should initially be cut to a length of 20mm.
2. Each pedestal should be ‘upright’, that is to say they should be running parallel to the sides of the gunport
openings.
3. The bottom of each pedestal is to be secured down flush against the deck planking; this lower face may need to
be bevelled to ensure the pedestal remains ‘upright’.
4. Each pedestal will be secured directly against the inner bulwark. In order to achieve this ‘notches’ will need to be
filed out of the inboard face of the capping rail. Also, the face of the pedestal which will be secured to the inner
bulwark may require shaping.
5. Do not trim the top of the pedestals at this stage; this is best achieved after the pedestals have been secured into
position noting the instructions below.
When you are happy with the positioning and fit of each pedestal they can be secured into position, you may find it beneficial
to pin the pedestals to the deck. This can be done by drilling a 0.65mm hole, centrally, up into the base of the pedestal and
gluing a dome headed pin (183) (dome head removed) into this hole with the sharp end protruding. Mark the position of the pin
onto the deck and drill out with a 0.65mm drill.
When correctly fitted, the top of each pedestal should be trimmed back until it protrudes up 2mm above the top surface of the
capping rail. It should be noted that the top face of the pedestals, once trimmed, should be running parallel to the top surface of
the capping rail. This can be achieved by placing some scrap 2mm material onto the capping rail and gently sanding the top of
the pedestals back to this height.
Identify and remove the swivel gun pedestal plates (136) from the 0.5mm brass etch sheet. Before fitting or painting (matt
(metal) black) the hole through the centre of the pedestal plates should be opened up with a 0.65mm drill if required. The
swivel gun pedestal plates should be secured directly onto the top surface of the pedestals and a 0.65mm hole drilled down
vertically, through the hole in the plate, into the pedestal to accept a swivel gun at a later stage.
Note: Referring to page 19 the third and fifth pedestals (from the front) are fitted with large cleats as described, you may find it
of benefit to drill these pedestals and fit the cleats prior to securing the pedestals onto the model.

©2006 JoTiKa Ltd. 19
Cleats and Eyelets:
Referring to Plan Sheet 2, ‘Inner Bulwark Fittings’, you will need the following items:
1. 56 brass etched eyelets (167) (28 each side).
2. 3 copper eyelets (180) (2 for the port bulwark, 1 for starboard).
3. 2 small cleats (174) (1 each side).
4. 8 large cleats (175) (4 each side).
The brass etched eyelets (167) are positioned, 4 at each gunport, as shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Gunport Eyelet Arrangement’,
(Photo 033). The inner pair of eyelets (the pair closest to the gunports) are for the gun tacklesuand should have their ‘eyes’
running vertically. They are positioned 3mm outside each gunport at a height of 6mm off the deck. The outer pair of eyelets
are for the breech ropesuand should have their ‘eyes’ running horizontally. They are positioned 3.75mm outside each gunport
at a height of 4.5mm off the deck.
Note: The positions for these eyelets should be drilled with a 0.5mm drill and it is important that the holes are drilled no
deeper than 2mm – if you drill deeper than this you risk breaking through the outer hull planking.
The copper eyelets (180) should all have their eyes running horizontally. The first pair (one each side) should be positioned
42mm forward of the captain’s cabin screen and tight up underneath the after capping rail as shown. The eyelets should not be
‘driven home’ tight against the bulwark side, instead they should protrude far enough that their ‘eyes’ are fully visible inboard
of the after capping rail when viewed from above, as shown on Plan Sheet 2, ‘Bulwark Eyelets’.
The third copper eyelet (180) is positioned 5mm forward of the seventh gunport (on the port side only) and tight up underneath
the after capping rail as shown. Again, this eyelet should not be ‘driven home’ tight against the bulwark side, instead it should
protrude far enough that the ‘eye’ is fully visible inboard of the after capping rail when viewed from above.
Note: The positions for these eyelets should be drilled with a 0.65mm drill and it is important that the holes are drilled no
deeper than 2mm – if you drill deeper than this you risk breaking through the outer hull planking.
The two small cleats (174) are to be positioned (one each side) at a distance 30mm forward of the captain’s cabin screen and
10mm off the deck. They should be at approximate 25 degree angles as shown.
Four of the large cleats (175) are to be positioned (two per side) on the third and fifth swivel gun pedestals (counting from the
front) as shown. They should be secured centrally on the pedestals and positioned to run vertically. The positions of the cleats
should be drilled with a 1mm drill.
The remaining four large cleats (175) are to be located (two per side) at positions of 9mm and 13mm forward of the seventh
gunport and each 8mm off the deck as shown. Both cleats should be positioned to run vertically.
Note: The positions for these cleats should be drilled with a 1mm drill and it is important that the holes are drilled no deeper
than 2mm – if you drill deeper than this you risk breaking through the outer hull planking.
Photo 033
Photo 034