Jotika H.M.S VICTORY 1805 User manual

H.M.S VICTORY 1805
Exact scale model of the 100-Gun British Ship of the Line.
This, the fifth ship of the Royal Navy to bear the name Victory, had three major battle honours. The
first being the Battle of Ushant 1781, the second, the Battle of St. Vincent 1797 and the third, for
which she is most famed, the Battle of Trafalgar 1805. By the end of the Battle of Trafalgar, there was
not a mast, spar, shroud or sail on board Victory that had not been severely damaged, lost or destroyed
in the conflict.
Manual 2 of 3
Masting & Rigging
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©2003 JoTiKa Ltd. 1
Masts & Bowsprit
You may find it easier to avoid turning the round dowel into an oval dowel when tapering by using a David plane, draw knife
or similar as follows:
1. Slice the dowel (running with the grain), from a round at the start point of the taper to a square at the end of the taper.
2. Repeat this process so that the dowel runs from round at the start of the taper to an eight sided polygon at the end of
the taper.
3. Repeat step two as desired so that the dowel runs from a round at the start of the taper to a 16 or 32 sided polygon at
the end, of a diameter marginally more than that required.
4. Using medium sandpaper, followed by fine sandpaper the taper can be gently sanded round along its length.
The general construction of the masts are identical, therefore, a detailed construction of the foremast only will be given.
Bowsprit
Using Plan Sheet 7 for reference, construct the bowsprit to the dimensions shown. You should note that the bowsprit top and
sides of the bowsprit, at the positioning of the bees, should be filed flat to accommodate the bees and sheaves. Using Plan
Sheet 11 for reference, fit the bees and sheaves (415, 416, 417 & 418), the spritsail yard saddle (334), the jibboom support
(414) and stop cleats constructed from 1.5x1.5mm walnut. The gammoning saddles are constructed from 1.5x1.5mm walnut,
glued to the bowsprit and sanded round.
Note: the ends of gammoning saddles and the spritsail yard saddle should be vertical when the bowsprit is positioned on the
model.
The banding is made from 2mm wide strips of cartridge paper and positioned as shown on Plan Sheet 11.
The bowsprit cap (69) is made as shown on Plan Sheet 11.
Note: it is extremely important that the bowsprit and jibboom holes through the cap are offset to the port as shown, this will
allow the flying jibboom to butt up against the cap when the assembly is complete. It is also important that the cap, when
fitted, is perpendicular to the keel and the top and bottom are bevelled to follow the angle of the bowsprit. The holes through
the cap should also be angled, this can be achieved by drilling small holes and filing them out with needle files.
Note: when the bowsprit assembly is complete, the bowsprit and jibboom are in line with each other while the flying jibboom
is offset at 45 degrees from them, above and to the starboard.
The dolphin striker and jack staff should also be made up and fitted using Plan Sheet 7 & 11 for reference.
Note: the flying jibboom has a vertical notch in the end to accommodate the fore topgallant flagstaff stay (page 18). Likewise,
the dolphin striker has a notch fore and aft in the end to accommodate the fore topgallant flagstaff stay. The dolphin striker also
need three holes drilled fore and aft as shown on Plan Sheet 11, to accommodate the martingales (page 18).
The Fore Lower Mast
Using Plan Sheet 6 for reference, make up the fore lower mast to the dimensions given as follows:
On the top of the fore lower mast, mark out an 8mm square. Follow the lines of the square down the dowel to a distance of
73.1mm.
Using a fine razor saw, saw at right angles across the dowel to each pencil mark at the 73.1mm line. Form the square section
using a craft knife, plane, saw, file or similar.
When completed, mark out the 6mm square on the dowel to a depth of 5mm and repeat the process, making sure that the 6mm
square is central to the 8mm square.
Offer the cheeks (343) to either side of the mast and mark their positions onto the mast. Using a plane, draw knife or similar,
remove the area of the mast on which the cheeks will fit so that the surface of the cheek will sit flush against the mast.
Note: the front and back of the mast in this area should remain rounded with a diameter of 12.7mm.
Before the cheeks are glued into position, it may be an advantage to fit the bands of 2mm wide cartridge paper, that pass under
the cheeks, as shown on Plan Sheet 10.
Glue the cheeks to the mast taking care to ensure they are at the same height as each other, remembering that the ‘tops’ will be
located directly on top of them.
Identify the fore lower mast top platform (345), gunwale (346), crosstrees (137 & 138) and trestletrees (136). Using Plan
Sheet 6, ‘Fore mast tops’ for reference, glue the gunwale to the platform and using 1.5x1.5mm walnut for the battens, glue
them to the platform, within the gunwale as shown.
Glue together the crosstrees and trestletrees as shown. The ‘notch’ in the trestletrees is a locator for the fid of the topmast when
fitted and should be toward the front of the assembly.
Note: the crosstrees are of different lengths, ensure the front is put to the front and the rear is put to the rear in relation to the
fid notch.
When complete, glue the crosstree and trestletree assembly to the underside of the top platform.
At this stage, put the lower mast and top assembly to one side, do not glue them to one another.

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The Fore Topmast
In a similar manner to the lower mast, mark an octagon on the top of the topmast. Using a pencil, mark down the complete
length of the dowel all eight lines parallel to each other. Hold the pencil in a normal manner between thumb and forefinger and
using your middle finger as a guide, draw down the mast. This is a simple method which becomes very efficient and accurate
with a little practise. With the eight lines drawn down the mast, draw the octagon to the base of the mast also. These lines will
enable you to easily carve each of the octagonal areas onto the mast in-line with each other.
Using Plan Sheet 6 for reference, make up the topmast to the dimensions given.
Note: for the two octagons at the base of the topmast, the lowest (smallest) octagon is offset from centre so that the aft face
runs directly into the aft face of the second octagon above, as shown. All other octagons are central to the dowel. Also take
care in drilling the locating hole for the fid through the second octagon as shown, as this will be fitted into the notch on the fore
top trestletrees and if drilled at the wrong height will make correct alignment of the mast impossible. Beware not to fit the fid
at this stage or the topmast will not pass through the cap. All fids are made from 1.5x1.5mm walnut to a length of 5mm longer
than the width of their respective mast.
The octagon at the top of this mast is tapered from a diameter of 5.5mm to a diameter of 6.5mm along a length of 18mm. The
remaining 4mm of the octagon has a constant 6.5mm diameter.
The top 37mm of the mast is 4mm square. Two side faces of this square section should be inline with the two flat sides of the
centre octagon, where it will fit into the ‘top’, remembering that the lowest octagon is offset to the aft of the mast.
The sheave assembly can be made up as shown from 1.5x1.5mm walnut and a length of 1x4mm walnut however, the sheaves
should not be attached to the mast until the whole mast assembly, including the tops, has been glued together. This also applies
to the 0.5x1.5mm battens.
Identify the fore topmast trestletrees (139) and fore topmast crosstrees (210) and assemble the topmast top as shown.
The Fore Topgallant Mast
Using Plan Sheet 6 for reference, make up the topgallant mast to the dimensions given.
Mark the octagons and squares onto the mast as described previously, taking care that they are all in-line. Take care also with
the positioning of the fid.
With all three sections of the foremast constructed, the mast as a whole can be assembled.
Starting with the lower mast, identify the bibbs (344). Glue them into position as shown so that the straight back edge and the
top edge are flush with the cheeks.
With the mast banding fitted, glue the rubbing paunch of 2x4mm walnut to the front of the lower mast as shown 12.7mm off
the deck, taking care that it runs vertically and centrally, when in place it should be reduced to 1.5x4mm.
Assemble the fore mast boarding pike rack as shown on (Fig 030), and attach it to the mast, the base should be 10mm off the
deck and the top should be 25mm above the base. The lower mast banding can now be finished and when completed, the
boarding pikes can be glued into the rack. The pikes and pike racks are to be painted black.
Identify the foremast cap (66) and fore topmast cap (88). Dry fit the fore top and foremast cap to the lower mast. Do not
secure. Now dry fit the topmast, through the cap, insert the fid and position it into its locating notches on the trestletrees. Dry
fit the topmast top, topmast cap and topgallant mast in a similar manner. None of the individual components (lower mast,
topmast, topgallant mast, caps & tops) should be glued to one another at this stage.
With everything dry fitted together, manoeuvre the topmast to run parallel and in-line vertically with the lower mast, at the
same time, the lower top should remain parallel to the keel. When you are happy with the alignment, glue the lower mast,
lower top, cap, fid & topmast securely.
This process should be repeated with the topmast, topmast top, cap, fid and topgallant mast.
With the assembly complete, attach the bolsters, of 4x4mm walnut sanded or filed to quarter rounds as shown, to the lower top
and the bolsters, of 3x3mm walnut sanded or filed to quarter rounds as shown, to the topmast top.
Using lengths of 0.5x3mm walnut cut to 0.5x1.5mm attach the battens to the top square section on the lower mast as shown
(ensure the mast banding has been applied first). Also, secure the jeer block strop cleats (144) to the sides.
Identify the fore mast hand mast (149) and glue it into position between the crosstree and the underside of the cap. some
sanding of the top and bottom will be required to ensure a good fit and the centre section should be filed or sanded round.
The topmast sheaves, constructed earlier can now be fitted.
Identify the foremast cap saddles (348 & 349) and secure to the cap as shown on Plan Sheet 10 & (Fig 036). Finally locate and
fit the mast finishing cap (347).

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Fig 030
Mast Colours
The masts are painted as follows:
The lower mast including banding, cheeks, rubbing paunch etc. is painted yellow up to the bibbs, from the bibbs to the lower
mast cap is painted black. The whole of the lower top is also painted black. The hand mast is painted yellow.
The topmast is painted black from the base to the lower mast cap. From the lower mast cap to the topmast top is left natural
(stained walnut). From the topmast top to the cap is painted black. The whole of the topmast top is painted black.
The topgallant mast is painted black from the base to the topmast cap. From the topmast cap to the start of the octagonal of the
hounds is left natural (stained walnut). From the start of the octagonal of the hounds to the end of the square of the hounds is
painted black. From the top of the square of the hounds to the top is left natural (stained walnut).
This is all visible on the box art.
The Main Mast
Using Plan Sheets 6 & 9 for reference, the main mast is constructed in the same manner as the fore mast with the following
points of note:
1. There is a pronounced rake on the main mast as can be seen on the drawings. This angle is pre-determined by the
main mast slot in the keel.
2. The cheeks and bibbs both have angled upper edges to match the rake of the mast. This is to allow the lower top to
run parallel to the keel when in position, i.e. the top is not at 90 degrees to the mast. Ensure these angled edges are
identified and the cheeks and bibbs fitted accordingly.
3. This same angle should be introduced to the topmast top when it is fitted so that it too runs parallel to the keel.
4. Both the lower mast caps and topmast caps are at 90 degrees to the mast, i.e. they are not parallel to the keel.
5. Remember to fit the boarding pike rack into position as described for the fore mast.

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The Mizzen Mast
Using Plan Sheets 6 & 8 for reference, the mizzen mast is constructed in the same manner as the fore mast with the following
points of note:
1. There is a pronounced rake on the mizzen mast as can be seen on the drawings. This angle is pre-determined by the
mizzen mast slot in the keel.
2. The cheeks bibbs and tops are to be fitted with the same considerations as listed for the main mast.
3. The mizzen lower mast should not be tapered to accommodate the mizzen cheeks, instead the cheeks are fitted
directly to the mizzen mast.
4. There is no rubbing paunch on the mizzen mast.
5. There is no mizzen topgallant mast fid. The topgallant mast sits directly into the tops without the need for a fid.
6. The tolerances, particularly for the topgallant mast are critical. As a result, the topmast cap has had to be produced in
two halves. The build process for the mizzen mast remains the same as the other masts except for this.
7. Referring to Plan Sheet 6 you should notice on the topgallant mast that the octagonal pattern is tapered along its
entire length. In other words, it is tapered from 2.5mm to 4mm along the entire 7mm length and there is no straight
octagonal on the top.
8. Do not forget to fit the mizzen mast circular fife rail (207), it is positioned 13mm off the deck, there is no boarding
pike rack for the mizzen mast.
Yards & Booms
Using Plan Sheet 7 for reference, make up the yards and booms to the dimensions shown.
The centre, octagonal sections, of the fore and main yards are constructed by securing 8 lengths of 0.5x4mm walnut to the
dowel.
Note: the batten on the aft face is twice the length of the other seven. For the fore yard it measures 188mm compared to 94mm
for the other seven. For the main yard it measures 216mm compared to 108mm for the other seven.
The centre, octagonal sections, of the fore and main topmast yards are constructed by securing 4 lengths of 0.5x3mm walnut to
the dowel, with spacers also of 0.5x3mm walnut as shown.
The centre of the mizzen crossjack yard has a length of 05x1mm walnut (cut from 0.5x3mm) secured to its aft face. Also, the
mizzen topmast yard has four lengths of 0.5x2mm walnut (cut from 0.5x4mm) secured to the top, bottom, fore and aft faces.
The stop cleats on all yards are constructed from 1.5x1.5mm walnut shaped as required.
Note: the stop cleats on the aft only of the topmast yards double as snatch blocks for the topgallant yard sheets. To simulate
this, cut a piece of 1.5x1.5mm walnut (or scrap 1.5mm ply) to length and, using a needle file, file a semi-circular notch out of
one face. This face is then glued against the yard as shown (Fig 031).
Fig 031
Cut cleat from 1.5mm walnut, file a notch in one face, glue to aft face only of topmast yards.
Note: all booms are secured to the yards through yard rings as shown and are offset through 45 degrees above and fore of the
yard. The outermost rings are located, using brass wire, to holes drilled into the end of their respective yards, through the brass
etched boom iron straps where appropriate.
Mast & Yard Blocks
With the masts and yards assembled and referring to Plan Sheets 8, 9, 10 & 11 & (Fig 33 - 44) fit the blocks, eyelets, horses
and flemish horses to the masts, yards and tops as shown. Unless directed otherwise on the plan, the smaller blocks (2 - 5mm)
should be attached with 0.25mm black thread and larger blocks (7mm +) should be attached with 0.5mm black thread.
Note: all of the blocks on the yards should be positioned directly on top of or directly underneath the yards, i.e. they are all
‘behind’ the booms.
Note: when instructed to use the pre-cut blocks (10mm & 7mm open heart blocks, 10mm triple & double jeer blocks and the
8.5mm triple cat blocks), you will need to file a slight groove around the outer edge to take the strop as shown (Photo 041).

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd. 5
Photo 041
Shipping the Masts
Using Plan Sheets 8, 9, 10 & 11 for reference, temporarily drill and pin the yards in place on the masts and bowsprit. With the
locations marked, drilled and pinned, remove the yards and set them to one side, they will not be finally fitted until needed for
the running rigging.
Identify the mizzenmast poop sleeve (153), main mast quarterdeck sleeve (156) and fore mast quarterdeck sleeves (376 &
377). Construct the sleeves as shown (Fig 032). Pass the masts through their respective sleeves and step the masts into their
locating holes on the deck, adjust the masts to the desired rakes and secure the sleeve to the deck (ensure the masts are all
aligned when viewed fore and aft). Secure the masts in place.
With the masts in place, a pair of small cleats (662) are secured to the base of both the main and fore lower masts, just forward
of the centreline and between the mast sleeve and pike rack base, as shown (Fig 030).
‘Top’ Rails & Lantern
Identify and paint black the rail stanchions for the tops (514). The stanchions are fitted to the top of the gunwale, equally
spaced along the aft edge. There are five stanchions fitted across the back of the fore top, five across the main top and four
across the mizzen top. Cut to length and paint black lengths of 1.5x1.5mm walnut to fit into the ‘U’s’ of the rail stanchions
across the tops.
Identify, paint and assemble the small Admiral’s lantern components (540, 658 & 659). The lantern can be assembled in the
same manner as the transom lanterns. The lantern is fitted, on brass wire, into the centre of the aft face of the main top.
Fig 032

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Fore Lower Top Blocks
Fig 033
Fore Lower Top (‘Top’)
Fig 034
Fore Lower Top (Underside)

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Fore Topmast Top Blocks
Fig 035
Fore Topmast Top
Fore Lower Mast Cap Blocks
Fig 036
Fore Lower Mast Cap

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Main Lower Top Blocks
Fig 037
Main Lower Top (‘Top’)
Fig 038
Main Lower Top (Underside)

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Main Topmast Top Blocks
Fig 039
Main Topmast Top
Main Lower Mast Cap Blocks
Fig 040
Main Lower Mast Cap

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Mizzen Lower Top Blocks
Fig 041
Mizzen Lower Top (‘Top’)
Fig 042
Mizzen Lower Top (Underside)

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Mizzen Topmast Top Blocks
Fig 043
Mizzen Topmast Top
Mizzen Lower Mast Cap Blocks
Fig 044
Mizzen Lower Mast Cap

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Standing Rigging
Note: all bnumbers in these rigging instructions refer to belaying points as described. All of these points can be found on Plan
Sheet 18, unless otherwise stated.
The rigging plans have been drawn following extensive research, contemporary and modern. We would recommend that you
follow these drawings exactly unless you are converting the model to an earlier or later version of the ship.
Note: never use super glue on the rigging unless specifically stated in the instructions. Brushed on watered down PVA should
be used for the majority of the knots. Super glue can be applied to the end of the rigging to aid threading through the blocks.
Where a copper eyelet (with rigging passing through it) is secured directly to a mast, a turn of 0.25mm black thread should be
lashed around the mast, once close below the eyelet and once close above the eyelet. This is to simulate a thimble as shown
(Fig 045).
Fig 045
Insert eyelet. Rig one turn of thread below. Rig one turn of thread above.
Tackle Pendants:
Starting with the tackle pendants, for the lower masts there are two pairs on the fore and main mast, and one pair on the
mizzenmast (called the burton pendants). The main and fore mast are of 1.3mm black thread, seize a small loop in both ends
and run one end through the lower mast top (starboard for the first pair), around the main mast until the pair are at equal
lengths running abreast of the masts. They should be level with the futtock stays and catharpins as shown on the rigging plans.
Tie the two halves together with 0.25mm black rigging thread and push the knots to the top of the mast near the bolsters. The
mizzen burton pendant is made in a similar manner from 0.5mm black thread. For the topmasts, there is one pair on each side
of the fore and main and none on the mizzen. These are again constructed in the same manner as the lower mast pendants from
0.75mm black thread.

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Lower Mast Shrouds:
Shrouds are next to be set-up and a formal sequence must be adhered to. Forward starboard, forward port alternating. The fore
and main mast shrouds are from 1.3mm black thread and the mizzen are from 0.75 black thread, as shown on Plan Sheet 12
together with the appropriate deadeye sizes (The deadeyes are attached to the channels as shown on Plan Sheet 2). Roughly
measure out the length of each pair of shrouds and cut the required number of pairs before setting up (they get longer as you
progress). Rig one end of each shroud with the appropriate size deadeye. The upper and lower deadeyes need to be correctly
and uniformly spaced. The spacing for the lower mast deadeyes should be 20mm . A small jig can be made as follows, cut two
lengths of 1mm wire approximately 40mm long, bend 10mm from each end to an angle of 90 degrees. This should leave 20mm
between each end. A similar jig can be made (in different size material) for different size blocks. The spacing for the fore and
main topmast deadeyes should be 15mm and the mizzen 13mm. One end of the jig can be slotted into the middle hole of the
lower deadeye with the other end into the middle hole of the shroud deadeye. Thread the loose end of the shroud through the
‘top’ around the mast, back through the ‘top’ and down to the second deadeye. Insert a loose deadeye into the second spacing
jig with the other end of the jig in the corresponding deadeye. The loose end of the shroud should then be wrapped around the
deadeye with 0.25mm black thread. Tie the pair of shrouds together near the tops and then push the knot up to the bolster. Rig
the lanyards (cable laid) to the deadeyes using 0.5mm natural thread as shown on Plan Sheet 12, ‘Rigging detail’. Continue
this procedure until all the lower mast shrouds have been set up. There is a futtock stave to each set of shrouds (both lower and
topmast shrouds). These are cut from 1mm brass to the length of the spread of the shrouds at the position to which they are to
be tied using 0.25mm black thread, as shown on Plan Sheet 12. Tie each shroud to the futtock stave with a simple clove hitch.
Note: the futtock stave is positioned across the shrouds at a distance as far below the ‘top’ as the mast cap is above the ‘top’ as
shown on Plan Sheet 12, ‘Shroud, futtock stave & catharpin assembly’.
Each port futtock stave is tied to the opposite starboard futtock stave by ropes called catharpins as follows:
There are six catharpins on the fore and main lower mast made from 0.75mm black thread, they are tied in position between
shrouds 4 through 9.
The mizzen lower mast has two catharpins of 0.5mm black thread tied between shrouds 5 and 6.
The topmast futtock staves will be dealt with at a later stage.
Futtock Shrouds:
Identify the deadeye and futtock strop sizes from the plan. Insert the deadeye into the strop and position the strop into the slots
as shown on Plan Sheet 12, ‘Fitting of deadeye futtock strops’. The futtock strops are attached to the futtock staves by the
futtock shrouds and small brass etched rigging hooks (547), as shown. The futtock shrouds are 0.75mm black thread for the
fore and main masts and 0.5mm black thread for the mizzen.
Topmast Shrouds:
The topmast shrouds are set up in a similar manner to the lower mast shrouds using the appropriate size material as shown on
Plan Sheet 12. There is a pair of 0.7mm brass futtock staves on the topmast shrouds as already described above, there are no
catharpins.
Note: two 3mm single blocks (one per side) should be secured between the first and second topmast shrouds as close under the
‘top’ as possible, on all masts and are used for the topmast yard lifts when rigged.
Topgallant Shrouds:
The topgallant shrouds are secured to the top of the mast as shown on Plan Sheet 12 and lead through the holes in the end of
the topmast top crosstrees and are tied off to the topmast futtock staves. There are three pairs for the fore and main mast of
0.5mm black thread and two pairs of 0.25mm black thread for the mizzen.
Note: two 3mm single blocks (one per side) should be secured between the first and second shrouds as close under the ‘top’ as
possible, on all masts and are used for the topgallant mast yard lifts when rigged. These blocks are shown on Plan Sheet 8, 9 &
10 as blocks secured in a strop around the topgallant shrouds. As the topgallant shrouds are close together, at this scale, you
may find it of benefit to rig these blocks in a strop as shown and run the first and second shrouds as falls from the arse of the
blocks.
Ratlines:
This stage will require a considerable amount of time and patience but the end result will be its own reward.
0.1mm natural thread is used and is secured to each shroud with a clove hitch as shown on Plan Sheet 12, ‘Rigging detail’.
They should be uniformly spaced approximately 4.5mm apart. Leave about 15mm of excess thread at each end of each row of
ratlines, this will make the process of trimming the ends much easier. For the lower masts only, the foremost and aftermost
shrouds are omitted for the first six ratlines above the deadeyes and below the futtock staves. You may also find it beneficial
not to apply the two or three lower ratlines until after the shroud cleats have been fitted. Identify the locations of the shroud
cleats from Plan Sheet 18 and secure them into position (inboard) with 0.1mm natural thread . The cleats and 0.1mm thread
should be painted black when in position. Finish the ratlines, brush on watered down PVA and finally trim the ratlines only
when dry.
Note: the ratlines on Victory are not black.

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Bowsprit:
The bowsprit can now be glued into position, ensuring that the cap remains vertical both from the front and side views. The
bowsprit is also held in position by two sets of gammoning each of 9 turns in 1mm black thread. The gammoning passes over
the bowsprit between the saddles, down past the headrails and through the gammoning slots in the stem. Tie off the
gammoning and using 0.5mm black thread lash the nine turns together around the centre within the headrails again with nine
turns.
Driver Boom and Driver Gaff:
It would be normal practice to attach these now, however in order to keep the model to a more manageable size it will be
beneficial to ship them at a later stage as described. If you prefer to ship them now, all required instruction can be found on
page 26.
The Mizzen Stay:
The mizzen stay is 1mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse as follows
1. Seize a loop at the end of the stay large enough for the stay to run through it. This loop is called an eye.
2. Thread the eye end of the stay under the ‘top’ around the mast and back down through the ‘top’.
3. Lead the running end of the stay through the eye.
4. Mark a position on the stay where the eye is approximately 50mm below the ‘top’. And remove the stay from the
mast.
5. Using 0.5mm black thread, wrap the thread around the position marked on the stay and create a bump large enough to
simulate a mouse and prevent the eye from passing over it.
6. Feed the eye end back under the ‘top’ from the port side, around the mast and back down through the ‘top’ on the
starboard side.
7. Lead the running end of the stay back through the eye until the mouse holds the eye.
The running end now leads through the copper eyelet as shown on Plan Sheet 13 and is tied off to the copper eyelet on the
deck, port side of the main mast (b1).
The Mizzen Topmast Stay:
The mizzen topmast stay is 0.5mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 28mm below the topmast top.
The running end now leads through the copper eyelet on the main mast just below the catharpins. It is then secured to the
copper eyelet on the deck, starboard side of the main mast (b2).
The Mizzen Topgallant Stay:
The mizzen topgallant stay is 0.25mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the mizzen mast hounds as shown on
Plan Sheet 13. It then leads through the hole at the rear of the mainmast cap (Fig 040) and secures to a copper eyelet in the
main top, port side (b3).
The Main Stay:
The main mast stay is 1.8mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 70mm below the top. Into the running
end seize a 10mm closed heart block so that its centre point lies approximately 15mm in front of the fore mast, note, the stay
passes on the starboard side of the fore mast. The main stay collar of 1.8mm black thread passes through the aftermost holes
in the marines’ walk, between the knighthead and bowsprit and through the hole in the stem, back up through the marines’
walk and is lashed to the starting end. The collar should be of a length that it terminates approximately 25mm in front of the
main stay. The collar can be moved round until the lashed ends are hidden at the stem and a 10mm open heart block seized in
the uppermost part with 0.5mm black thread. The main stay closed heart block is now lashed to the main stay collar open heart
block with 0.75mm natural thread. This is illustrated on Plan Sheet 13, ‘Method of seizing open heart ‘collar’ to closed
heart of ‘stays’’.
The Main Preventer Stay:
The main preventer stay and collar are 1.3mm black thread and the preventer stay requires an eye and mouse approximately
80mm below the top. The main preventer stay and collar are made up in the same way as the main stay and collar but with the
following alterations:
1. The open and closed heart blocks are 7mm.
2. The closed heart block in the preventer stay lies approximately 25mm in front of the fore mast, also to the starboard
side.
3. The preventer stay collar passes through the foremost hole in the marines’ walk and around the bowsprit.
4. The main preventer stay closed heart block is lashed to the main preventer stay collar open heart block with 0.5mm
natural thread.

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd. 15
Snaking:
The snaking is 0.1mm natural thread and alternates from the main stay to the main preventer stay and back for the full length
between the eye and mouse and closed heart blocks, forming a zigzag pattern. It is advisable to use either an over hand or
marling hitch knot at each point.
The Main Stay Tackle Pendant:
Referring to Plan Sheet 13 for position, the main stay tackle pendant is of 0.5mm black thread with falls of 0.25mm natural
thread. The tackle is made up of a 7mm double block seized into the end of the pendant, and a 7mm single block together with
a rigging hook (548). At this stage, loosely belay the falls to the fifth skid beam, it can be finally secured after the boat
positioning has been determined at the end of the rigging process.
The Main Stay Fore Stay Tackle Pendant:
The main stay fore stay tackle pendant is made up as per the main stay tackle pendant, again refer to Plan Sheet 13 for
position. At this stage, loosely belay the falls to the second skid beam, it can be finally secured after the boat positioning has
been determined at the end of the rigging process.
The Main Topmast Preventer Stay:
The main topmast preventer stay is 0.75mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 50mm below the
topmast top. The running end then passes through a copper eyelet below the catharpins (close to the bibbs) on the foremast and
travels down to the deck. At a point approximately 25mm above the deck, seize a small loop in the end of the stay. It is then
secured by a 0.5mm natural lanyard of several turns to a copper eyelet on the port side of the fore mast (b4).
The Main Topmast Stay:
The main topmast stay is 1mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 45mm below the topmast top. The
running end then passes through the 7mm single block lashed to the fore lower mast between the ‘top’ and the cap. It is then
secured by lanyard of several turns to a copper eyelet on the starboard side of the fore mast (b5) in the same manner as the
main topmast preventer stay.
The Main Topgallant Mast Stay:
The main topgallant mast stay is 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is tied off at the main mast hounds as shown on Plan
Sheet 13. The running end passes through a 3mm single block below the fore topmast cap then down to a span around the fore
top trestletrees as shown on Plan Sheet 13 & Plan Sheet 18 ‘Fore top’. A loop is formed in the span and the stay and they are
secured together using a 0.25mm black thread lanyard of several turns (b6).
The Main Topgallant Flagstaff Stay:
The main topgallant flagstaff stay will not be rigged until after the fore topmast preventer stay.
The Fore Mast Stay:
The fore mast stay is 1.8mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 55mm below the top. The running end
has a 10mm closed heart block seized in it approximately 45mm from the bowsprit. A collar is made up in the same manner as
the main stay collar from 1.8mm black thread again with a 10mm open heart block seized in the uppermost part 25mm from
the closed heart block. These two blocks are then lashed together with 0.75mm natural thread.
The Fore Mast Preventer Stay:
The fore mast preventer stay and collar are 1.3mm black thread and the preventer stay requires an eye and mouse
approximately 60mm below the top. The fore mast preventer stay and collar are made up in the same way as the fore mast stay
and collar but with the following alterations:
1. The open and closed heart blocks are 7mm.
2. The main preventer stay closed heart block is lashed to the main preventer stay collar open heart block with 0.5mm natural
thread.
Snaking:
The snaking is 0.1mm natural thread and alternates from the fore mast stay to the fore mast preventer stay and back for the full
length between the eye and mouse and closed heart blocks, forming a zigzag pattern. It is advisable to use either an over hand
or marling hitch knot at each point.

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd.
16
The Fore Topmast Preventer Stay:
The fore topmast preventer stay is 0.75mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 40mm below the
topmast top. The running end passes through the sheave in the port bee of the bowsprit and runs down the port side of the
bowsprit with a 7mm double jeer block seized into the end of the stay approximately 35mm from the knighthead. At the same
time a 0.5mm natural falls must be seized into the arse of the 7mm double jeer block. A brass rigging hook is now seized into
the arse of a 3mm double block which in turn is hooked through a copper eyelet in the forward side of the knighthead. The
0.5mm natural falls are made up into a tackle between the 7mm double jeer and 3mm double block and is belayed to the
knighthead below the eyelet (b8).
The Fore Topmast Stay:
The fore topmast stay is 1mm black thread and requires an eye and mouse approximately 45mm below the topmast top. The
running end passes down through the sheave in the starboard bee of the bowsprit and runs down the starboard side of the
bowsprit. A block and tackle is made up, to the starboard knighthead, in a similar manner as the fore topmast preventer stay but
10mm double and 5mm double blocks are used in place of the 7mm and 3mm blocks respectfully. The falls belay to the
starboard knighthead below the eyelet (b7)
The Main Topgallant Flagstaff Stay:
The main topgallant flagstaff stay is of 0.25mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the main topgallant mast cap.
The running end passes through an eyelet above the hounds on the fore topgallant mast and then travels down and is secured
by a lanyard to a copper eyelet positioned directly above the foremast preventer stay (b9).
The Fore Topgallant Mast Stay:
The fore topgallant mast stay is of 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the fore mast hounds as shown on
Plan Sheet 13. The running end passes down and through the copper eyelet behind the collar casting in the top of the jibboom
and runs down the port side of the bowsprit. Seize a 3mm double block in the end of the fore topgallant mast stay
approximately 30mm from the port knighthead under the marines’ walk. A 3mm single block is lashed to a brass eyelet in the
forward side of the knighthead, at the same time a falls of 0.25mm natural thread it tied to the arse of the 3mm single block and
forms a tackle between the 3mm single and double blocks and belays to the top of the port knighthead (b10).
The Fore Topgallant Flagstaff Stay:
The fore topgallant flagstaff stay will be fitted at a later stage after the dolphin striker and martingales have been fitted.
The Mizzen Topmast Standing Backstay:
The mizzen topmast standing backstay is 0.5mm black thread. Using Plan Sheet 14 for reference the mizzen topmast standing
backstay is set up in a similar fashion to the shrouds using two 5mm deadeyes seized onto the mizzen backstay channel as
shown.
The Mizzen Topmast Shifting Backstay:
The mizzen topmast shifting backstay is 0.5mm black thread. Using Plan Sheet 14 for reference, seize a 3mm double block
into either end of the stay at a distance from the channel as shown on the drawings. Set up a 3mm single block with a rigging
hook (548) seized into the arse together with the tackle falls (in the crown) of 0.25mm natural thread, hook the 3mm single
block into the copper eyelet on the mizzen channel and set up the tackle with the 3mm double block. The running end of the
tackle is secured around the hook on the 3mm single block.
The Mizzen Topgallant Mast Backstay:
The mizzen topgallant mast backstay is of 0.25mm black thread. Using Plan Sheet 14 for reference the mizzen topgallant mast
backstay is set up in a similar fashion to the shrouds using two 3.5mm deadeyes seized into the mizzen backstay channel as
shown.
The Main Topmast Breast Backstay:
The main topmast breast backstay is of 0.75mm black thread and runs down outside the main lower mast ‘top’. Using Plan
Sheet 14 as reference seize a 5mm single block into the lower end of the stay. Through this block reeves a 0.50mm black
thread runner, whose after end is made fast to the strop of the third deadeye (from the front) of the main channel. A 5mm
single block is turned into the fore end of the runner and a tackle is made up using a 5mm double block seized around the first
deadeye strop (from the front) on the channel. The falls are made of 0.25mm natural and are belayed to the breast backstay
above the 5mm single block.

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd. 17
The Main Topmast Standing Backstays:
There are three pairs of main topmast standing backstays each of 0.75 black thread. The lanyards are of 0.25mm natural. Each
pair are set up in a similar manner to the shrouds using a pair of 5mm deadeyes. Using Plan Sheet 14 for reference, the first
pair are set up to the foremost deadeye of the main backstay channel, the second pair to the 6th deadeye from the rear of the
main channel and the third pair to the 11th deadeye from the rear of the main channel.
The Main Topmast Shifting Backstay:
The main topmast shifting backstay is of 0.75mm black thread and is made up in the same manner as the mizzen topmast
shifting backstay, to an eyelet in the rear of the main channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Main Topgallant Mast Standing Backstay:
The main topgallant mast standing backstay is of 0.5mm black thread. It is set up in a similar manner to the shrouds using
3.5mm deadeyes into the aft of the main backstay channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14. The lanyards are of 0.25mm natural
thread.
The Main Topgallant Mast Royal Backstay:
The main topgallant mast royal backstay is of 0.25mm black thread. Each end is secured directly to an eyelet (with a whipping)
in the aft of the main backstay channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Fore Topmast Breast Backstay:
The fore topmast breast backstay is of 0.75mm black thread, and runs down outside the fore lower mast ‘top’. Using Plan
Sheet 14 as reference, seize a 5mm single block into the lower end of the stay. Through this block reeves a 0.50mm black
thread runner, whose after end is made fast to the strop of the third deadeye (from the front) of the fore channel. A 5mm single
block is turned into the fore end of the runner and a tackle is made up using a 5mm double block seized around the first
deadeye strop (from the front) on the channel. The falls are made of 0.25mm natural and are belayed to the breast backstay
above the 5mm single block.
The Fore Topmast Shifting Backstay
The fore topmast shifting backstay is of 0.75mm black thread. Set up in the same manner as the mizzen topmast shifting
backstay into a copper eyelet behind the second deadeye from the rear of the fore channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Fore Topmast Standing Backstays:
There are three pairs of fore topmast standing backstays each of 0.75mm black thread. They are made up in the same manner
as the main topmast standing backstays with 5mm deadeyes. They are set up to each of the three 5mm deadeyes on the fore
channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Fore Topgallant Mast Standing Backstay:
The fore topgallant mast standing backstay is of 0.5mm black. Set up in the same manner as the main topgallant mast standing
backstay with two 3.5mm deadeyes into the aft of the fore channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Fore Topgallant Mast Royal Backstay:
The fore topgallant mast royal backstay is of 0.25mm black thread. It is set up in the same manner as the main topgallant mast
royal backstay, to an eyelet in the aft of the fore channel as shown on Plan Sheet 14.
The Jib Stay:
The jib stay is of 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the end notch of the jibboom (near the collar casting), it
then travels up to the starboard sheave of the fore topmast as shown on Plan Sheet 13. It then passes down to a block and
tackle on a copper eyelet on the starboard side of the fore top (Fig 033) (using a 3mm single and 3mm double block), the falls
of which are of 0.25mm natural. The running end of the tackle then runs down through the ‘top’ and is belayed to the main top
bowline bitts, pin 9, (b11).
The Jib Halyard:
The jib halyard is of 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the end notch of the flying jibboom. It then travels
up and through a hole drilled fore to aft in the fore topgallant mast as shown on Plan Sheet 13, then down to a block and tackle
on the port side of the fore top as shown (Fig 033). The block and tackle are made up of a 3mm single and 3mm double block
into an eyelet with 0.25mm natural falls. The running end of the tackle then runs through the ‘top’ and belays to the main top
bowline bitts, pin 4, (b12).

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd.
18
The Inner Martingale:
The inner martingale is of 0.5mm black thread. Referring to Plan Sheet 14, the standing end is made fast at the collar casting
on the jibboom. It then passes through the top hole in the dolphin striker and up through a 3mm single block lashed to the
starboard side of the bowsprit behind the bees. It is then belayed to the starboard knighthead (b13).
The Outer Martingale:
The outer martingale is of 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is made fast as per the inner martingale. It then passes
through the second hole in the dolphin striker and up to a 3mm single block lashed to the port side of the bowsprit also behind
the bees. It is then belayed to the port knighthead (b14).
The Flying Martingale:
The flying martingale is of 0.5mm black thread. The standing end is made fast to the notch in the end of the flying jibboom. It
then passes through the lower hole in the dolphin striker and also travels through a 3mm single block lashed to the bowsprit
behind the bees on the starboard side. It is then belayed to the starboard knighthead (b15).
The Fore Topgallant Flagstaff Stay:
The fore topgallant flagstaff stay is of 0.25mm black thread. The standing end is made fast at the fore topgallant mast cap. It
then travels down through a vertical notch in the end of the flying jibboom, down through the notch in the end of the dolphin
striker and up to a 3mm single block lashed to the port side of the bowsprit behind the bees. It is then secured on to the fore
stay collar.
The Flying Jib Horses:
There are two flying jib horses each of 0.5mm black thread and they travel from the end of the flying jibboom to the collar
casting on the flying jibboom. The horses are formed from overhand knots approximately 8mm apart.
The Jibboom Horses:
There are two jibboom horses each of 0.5mm black thread and they travel from the collar casting on the jibboom to the
bowsprit cap. Again they are formed from overhand knots approximately 8mm apart.
The Man Ropes:
There are two man ropes each of 0.5mm black thread. The first runs from a copper eyelet in the top of the port side of the
bowsprit cap to a copper eyelet in the front of the port knighthead, just below the ‘notch’. The second is identical but on the
starboard side. Each is formed from overhand knots approximately 8mm apart.
The Boomkin Stays:
The boomkin stays are of 0.5mm black thread, one pair per boomkin. They are looped around the groove in the end of the
boomkin and each end passes to its respective copper eyelet in the prow as shown on Plan Sheet 11.
The Bowsprit Shrouds:
The bowsprit shrouds are of 1mm black thread. There are four shrouds (two either side) made up using 5mm deadeyes and
arranged as shown on Plan Sheet 11. The standing end is hooked (548) into the copper eyelets in the hull. The lanyards are of
0.5mm natural thread.
The Bobstays:
There are three bobstays each of 1mm black thread. They are set up in a similar manner to the shrouds also using 5mm
deadeyes. The first two bobstays are tied off through the holes in the stem as shown on Plan Sheet 11. The third bobstay runs
down to the stem below the first two where it is secured to a span of 1mm black thread either end of which is hooked to copper
eyelets in the hull as shown on Plan Sheet 11.

©2003 JoTiKa Ltd. 19
Running Rigging
The yards should now be fitted to the masts as follows.
The Fore Yard:
The fore yard is held in place by a sling, truss pendants and jeers.
The sling is of 1.3mm black thread. Loop the sling over the yard within the sling cleats and as the thread passes through itself
tie a knot. Tie a second knot just above the first (to simulate two thimbles and a lanyard) (Fig 046). Pass the two ends of the
sling up through the hole in the ‘top’ in front of the hand mast and up around the mast cap, between the aftermost slot formed
by the cap saddles and tie together using a whipping.
There are two truss pendants of 1mm black thread. Tie a loop in one end of the thread just large enough for the opposite end to
pass through it, a dab of super glue can be applied to the loop to create a hard ‘eye’. Rig this end off around the yard against
the inner edge of the sling cleats so that the eye is aft of the yard. Repeat for the opposite side. Pass the running end of each
pendant through the ‘eye’ of the opposite. They then pass down towards the deck and have a 5mm double block seized in their
ends approximately 50mm from the deck, with a 0.25mm natural falls tied into the arse of the block at the same time. A second
5mm double block is to be hooked to a copper eyelet on the deck (position shown on Plan Sheet 18). The two 5mm double
blocks are formed into a block and tackle with the falls belaying to a small cleat on the side of the base of the fore mast (b16).
Referring to Plan Sheet 10 & 15, rig the mast head lashings of seven turns of 0.5mm black thread through the jeer block strop
cleats. Next, the two upper triple jeer blocks are to be tied into a strop of 1mm black thread, the strop passes up through the
‘top’ and is lashed to the mast head lashings so that the jeer block is positioned as close to the underside of the ‘top’ as
possible. A pair of 10mm double jeer blocks are now lashed to the yard, either side of the sling. The jeer falls themselves are of
1mm natural and is secured around the yard (between the strop and the sling) with a timber hitch and passes up through the
triple jeer block and forms a tackle with the double jeer block. The running end passes behind the yard and through the sheaves
in the main top bowline bitts and belayed at that point (b17).
Fig 046
The Fore Topmast Yard:
The fore topmast yard is held in place by parrells and beads and a tye.
11 parral ribs and 20 parral beads are secured in position with 0.25mm black thread within the sling cleats.
For the tye, there are two 7mm single blocks lashed around the mast above the shrouds as shown on Plan Sheet 15. The blocks
hang in a strop and fall below the trestletrees. The 7mm double tye block together with a pair of 3mm single buntline blocks
are secured to the centre of the yard with 0.5mm black thread. The pair of tyes are of 0.75mm natural. They are secured
directly above the strop (holding the 7mm single blocks). The first tye leads down from the port side and into the rearmost
sheave of the tye block then up to the starboard 7mm block and then through the truck on the starboard topmast standing
backstay as shown on Plan Sheet 15. The starboard tye travels in the same manner as the port tye (through the foremost sheave
in the tye block). A 7mm double block is seized into the end of the tyes just below the trucks and a tackle is formed with 7mm
single block held on a pendant (approximately 50mm long) seized to a copper eyelet at the rear of the fore channel. The falls
are of 0.25mm natural and belay to the aftermost kevel on the forecastle (adjacent to the belfry) (b18).