KENT EVOLUTION4 INSERT User manual

OwnersManual
WoodHeaters
COVERSMODELS-
EVOLUTION4
EVOLUTION4INSERT
EVOLUTION6
EVOLUTION6INSERT
EVOLUTION8
EVOLUTION8INSERT
Tested and approved to Australian Standards
AS/NZS2918:2001andAS/NZS4013/4012:2014.
Priortoinstallationcheckwithyourstateandlocal
authorities regarding any specific regulations that
mayapply.
Pleasekeeptheseinstructionsforfuturereference.
Burnhardwoodonly.
ForAll
Pricotech proudly supports the
activities of Landcare Australia
through its membership of the AHHA.

FIRST THINGS FIRST...
Congratulations on your purchase of a quality Austwood wood heater. This product is designed according to
strict environmental, quality and safety standards and should give you years of trouble free home heating.
Read these instructions carefully to get the most out of your heater and to ensure safe and satisfactory heater
performance. In particular, we would like to draw your attention to these warnings.
Becarefulofwhatyouburn:
*Use only dry, well seasoned hardwood.
*Do not use coal or briquettes.
*WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR
REKINDLE THE FIRE.
*Do not burn garbage in the firebox as garbage
can cause a dangerous soot build up and
increase the amount of smoke your heater
produces.
*Do not burn chemically treated timber as the
poisonous gases given off could damage your
stove.
*CAUTION: THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF
PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS FUEL
CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
*Do not place any types of builders board eg
fibro, cement sheeting (or any other materials
not specified and tested by the manufacturer)
inside the firebox.
Protect yourself and your family from
burns:
*WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL
BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
*The exterior surfaces of the heater will become
hot during operation. For protection of
children, the elderly or infirm, provide a
firescreen to prevent contact with the
appliance in operation.
*To protect against injury from burns, use
caution when operating the appliance. In
particular, when loading the firebox, provide
adequate protection for your hands.
Use your heater according to these
instructions:
*CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE
MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES
I N A C C O R D A N C E W I T H T H E S E
INSTRUCTIONS.
*DO NOT BURN WITH DOOR OPEN.
*CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT
BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
*Do not throw logs into the firebox. Always
place logs carefully.
*Load logs with ends pointing to the front of the
heater. This will help prevent logs rolling
forward.
*Do not overfire (allow firebox to glow red) as
this could damage your firebox.
*Always leave a minimum of 25mm (1”) of ash
in the bottom of the firebox. Never empty it
completely.
*WARNING: ANY MODIFICATION OF
THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN
APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED
AS BREACHING AS/NZS 4013.
*The appliance or flue system should not be
modified in any way without the written
approval of the manufacturer.
The heater can get very hot, so watch
obviousfirehazards:
*Do not place clothing or other combustible
materials on top of the heater.
*WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS OR PLACE
THESE IN THE VICINITY OF THIS
APPLIANCE WHEN IT IS OPERATING.
*WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL
WIT H I N H E ATER INSTALLATION
CLEARANCES.
*Do not store flammable liquids near the
heater.
*Do not store fuel close to the stove ).
ExclusionofLiability
Whilst every care has been taken in formulating these instructions, no responsibility whatsoever will attach to and/or
claim lie against, the manufacturer and/or the distributor of the heater as a result of any failure to follow the whole or
any part of the instructions and/or as a result of incorrect information herein and/or any omission here from.
2

Your heater comes almost completely assembled. There is only a simple matter of placing the bricks and brick
retainer, positioning the baffle plate, and the heater is ready to be installed.
ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW HEATER
BRICK RETAINER
To hold the firebricks in place, you should now
position the brick retainer bracket over the
firebricks as shown below.
3
Evolution 4
Evolution 6
Evolution 8
BAFFLE PLATE
The baffle plate sits on two angle brackets towards
the top of the firebox. Ensure the tab faces
upwards, and runs from side to side.
You will need to slide the back edge of the baffle
plate onto the brackets and then slide the baffle
into position.
Ensure the baffle plate is pushed all the way to the
back of the heater.
C
C
CC
C
C
B
B
B
B
B
B
BB
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
A
A
C
B
BB
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
C
C
A
A
A
A
FIREBRICK PLACEMENT
There are three sizes of firebox in the Kent range,
and each has its own arrangement of firebricks.
Refer to the diagrams below for your model of
heater. The bricks are placed with their longest
edge upright.
There will be gaps in between the firebricks. Allow
the ash to settle in between - there is no need to
remove the bricks when cleaning the firebox.
Brick Sizes
A - 173 x 74 B - 173 x 200 C - 119 x 200

4
INSTALLATION
BEFORE BEGINNING
Before beginning the installation of your wood
heater, you should note the following precautions:
*WARNING: THE APPLIANCE AND
FLUE-SYSTEM SHALL BE INSTALLED IN
ACCORDANCE WITH AS/NZS 2918
A N D T H E A P P R O P R I A T E
REQUIREMENTS OF THE RELEVANT
BUILDING CODE OR CODES.
*WARNING: APPLIANCES INSTALLED IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD
S H A L L C O M P L Y W I T H T H E
REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4013
WHERE REQUIRED BY THE REGULATORY
AUTHORITY I.E. THE APPLIANCE SHALL
BE IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE
PLATE WITH THE MARKING ‘TESTED TO
AS/NZS 4013.
*WARNING: ANY MODIFICATION OF THE
APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN
AP P ROV E D IN W R IT I NG B Y T HE
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED
TO BE IN BREACH OF THE APPROVAL
GRANTED FOR COMPLIANCE WITH
AS/NZS 4013.
*C A U T I O N: C R A C K E D A N D B R O K E N
COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS OR
C E R A M I C T I L E S , M AY R E N D E R T H E
INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
*I t i s s t r o n g l y r e c o m m e n d e d t h a t a
certified/qualified installer perform the
installation.
*You may need to get council approval prior to
installation.
*You should also check with your insurer for any
requirements they may have.
HEARTH REQUIREMENTS
If your wood heater is to be installed on carpet,
timber or any other combustible material, you
must place a hearth (also known as a floor
protector) underneath the heater. Please observe
the following:
*The hearth must consist of at least 12mm of
noncombustible material
*It is not recommended that you make your own
hearth
*The hearth and heater assembly must be
placed on a firm and level surface.
FLUE INSTALLATION
The correct flue system is critical to the
performance of your wood heater. It must either
be tested with the heater or be a default flue kit.
We recommend you use a Maxiheat Default Flue
Kit.
CAUTION: MIXING OF APPLIANCE OR FLUE-
SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT
SOURCES OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL
SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY
RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE
SUCH AC TI O N IS C ON S ID E RE D, THE
MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN
THE FIRST INSTANCE.
FLUE HEIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Your flue must extend the required height above
your roof to promote sufficient draught. If the flue
is not high enough, the heater will not “draw”
properly causing smoke to spill back into the
room.
The minimum height of the active flue must be
4.6m in length measured from the hearth plate to
the flue termination point. The flue must extend at
least 1m out of the roof. The flue must clear any
ridge or obstruction within a 3m radius by a
minimum of 1m.
For very steep roofs (45° or steeper) it is often
impractical to get above the highest point. The
use of an anti-downdraft cowl is advisable.
On flat roofs, the flue must extend a minimum of
1.5m.
There are other variables that can affect draught
(eg trees or tall buildings nearby). If you have the
correct flue height and still have problems, consult
your dealer.

LOCATION
Select a location for your wood heater with great
care.
*Do not place your heater in areas of high
traffic, near furniture or draperies.
*Check that the intended location will not
interfere with ceiling joists, rafters, valleys and
ridges.
CLEARANCES
It is vital that the heater be installed the proper
distance from combustible surfaces like wood,
gyprock and curtains.
The diagrams show both parallel and corner
installations.
Failure to maintain these minimum distances may
result in a fire for which your insurer may refuse to
cover.
REDUCED CLEARANCES
These clearances can be reduced with proper
heat shielding. Basically a noncombustible
surface is placed between the heater and the
combustible wall. It is vital that an unobstructed
air flow be maintained between the two surfaces
to remove excess heat.
HEARTH CLEARANCES
It is necessary to ensure that the heater is
positioned on the hearth so that the requirements
below are observed. The front of the hearth
should extend past the heater door by the distance
specified as D. The side of the hearth should
extend past the heater door by the distance
specified as E on each side.
INSTALLATION -FREESTANDING
HEATERS ONLY
GFEDCBAModel
All dimensions are in millimetres
Evolution 8
Evolution 6
Evolution 4
with Maxiheat Default Flue Kit
with decromesh
with flue pipe, no shield
with decromesh
with Maxiheat Decromesh Flue Kit
with Maxiheat Default Flue Kit
10331230200670125525250
10331230200670200525375
93099020040050400100
930990200400100400300
880940200430100300150
880940200430170300275
E
D
Gmin
F
min
Hearth Dimensions and
Clearances
C
Corner Installation
A
B
Parallel Installation
5

INSTALLATION -INSERT HEATERS ONLY
WARNING: This appliance and flue MUST be installed in a full masonry fireplace, and must
be installed by a qualified wood heater installer according to the latest version of AS2918.
6
Top view
Dimensions
Side view
Dimensions
Dimensions
Evolution 4
Evolution 6
All dimensions are in millimetres
8051032675520705
755932625520605
705870575470545
firebox
width
firebox
depth
firebox
height
facia
width
facia
height
NMLKJ
Evolution 8
FIREPLACE CONSTRUCTION
This wood heater be installed in a fullmust
masonry fireplace, which has been carefully
inspected for cracks or deterioration. The chimney
should be cleaned prior to installation.
You install a flue the entire length of themust
chimney. This will help your heater perform to its
full capabilities. It is also easier to clean.
CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES
The table and diagram below shows the minimum
clearances (in millimetres) to combustible
materials.
Clearance ‘A’ is from the top of the hearth to the
underside of the combustible mantlepiece.
Clearance ‘B’ is between the combustible
surround columns.
A
B
HEARTH CONSTRUCTION
Do not build the hearth over the front of the heater
as this will prevent access to the fan through the
front bottom air inlet cover.
Please refer to the requirements and diagram
below:
Evolution 4 insert heater: The hearth shall consist
of no less than 45 mm thick compressed fibre
cement sheet, with thermal conductivity not
greater than 0.33 W/m°K.
Evolution 6 or Evolution 8 insert heater: The
hearth shall consist of no less than 30 mm thick
compressed fibre cement sheet with a 15 mm air
gap underneath. The cement sheet shall have a
thermal conductivity not greater than 0.33
W/m°K. The air gap must provide a minimum of
3,750 mm² on each side (eg. two slots of 125 mm
x 15 mm ventilation on either side).
D
C
Evolution 4 insert
Evolution 6 insert
11301445
10301465
9201420
BA
Evolution 8 insert
All dimensions are in millimetres
Evolution 4 insert
Evolution 6 insert
1033605
930605
900500
DC
Evolution 8 insert
All dimensions are in millimetres

WOOD SELECTION
Few things affect the performance of your heater as much as the fuel you burn. Take note of the following:
WHAT NOT TO BURN
*Softwood (except kindling)
*Wet or unseasoned wood
*Treated or painted timber
*Saltwater wood
*Coal or charcoal
*Garbage, plastic etc
*Any solvents, kerosene, petrol or any
flammable liquid.
WHAT TO BURN
Quite simply, dry seasoned hardwood.
From when wood is first cut down, it takes up to 12
months of dry storage for the wood to season
properly. The seasoning process is underway
when cracks begin to appear at the ends of cut
timber.
Use of moist or unseasoned wood will result in
excessive smoke, longer startup times, a lazy
flame that requires more air to stay alight,
creosote build up in the flue and on the door
glass, and a much less powerful fire. The reason is
simple. Heat that would normally be going into
the room is wasted boiling water that is trapped
inside the wood. This poor performance costs you
m o n e y i n w a s t e d f u e l a n d i n c r e a s e d
maintenance.
It is difficult to determine if wood is dry just by
looking at it. If you can hear the wood sizzle and
hiss, or can see moisture bubbling from the wood
surface, then your wood is too wet. In practice, the
best thing you can do is to be sure of the source.
Buy your wood from reputable wood merchants.
Make sure you store the wood correctly.
WOOD STORAGE
It is important that wood be stored under cover.
Even wood that is years old will absorb large
quantities of moisture if exposed to the elements.
It is advisable that wood is stacked to allow some
air flow in and around the logs. This will help keep
the wood dry.
WOOD SPLITTING
It is best to have on hand a good range of wood
sizes to help control the fire. The rule of thumb is:
the hotter the fire, the bigger the log you can put
in.
*You need very small pieces of kindling to get
the fire started efficiently.
*Small pieces up to about 50mm thick are good
when the fire is still being established, or when
you want to revive a fire that has burnt low.
*Larger logs are excellent for long burns once
the fire is well established.
7

USING YOUR HEATER
Before using your wood heater, study this entire section carefully. It will assist you in achieving maximum efficiency
and enjoyment.
CURING THE PAINT
Various parts of your heater have been coated
with high quality paints to protect them and to give
them an attractive finish. You will need to “break-
in” your heater to harden or cure these coatings.
While curing, be careful not to touch the painted
surfaces as the paint will be quite soft.
The basic rule is: cure slowly, over about three
burns, without a hot fire. During the curing
process it is normal for some smoke and smell to
be given off from the surface of the heater. Each
time, some windows should be opened to allow
the paint odours to escape. Using a fan also helps
disperse the odours. For this reason it is best done
during the day.
1. The first fire should be kindling only and should
last for about 20 minutes. Leave the door
slightly ajar to stop the door rope from sticking.
2. Once the heater has cooled down, repeat the
process.
3. The third fire should be a normal fire of at least
45 minutes.
By this time, your heater should be cured. In
colder conditions, or if the heater uses a fan, it
may take slightly longer. The house should be
ventilated until all odours are gone.
OPERATING THE AIR CONTROL
You can control whether your heater burns on
high or low with the air control lever found on
either the front or the side of the heater,
depending on the model. The high and low
positions are clearly marked on all models.
For low burns - Use this setting for low burning, or
for extended burn times.
For medium burns - This is the optimal setting for
normal use.
For high burns - Use this setting for starting the fire
and for at least 30 minutes after loading and
reloading.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
Wood burns most efficiently when placed in a very
hot fire. These procedures are designed to bring
your firebox to the right temperature as quickly as
possible.
Put the air control on high.
Place a large amount of kindling in a criss-cross
pattern over a firelighter. Make sure plenty of air
can get into the stack and around each piece of
kindling.
Add a few small pieces of wood on top. The
firebox should be about half full of fuel.
Ignite the firelighter.
Leave the door slightly ajar for the first few minutes
to allow extra air to hasten the build up of flame.
Do not leave the heater unattended while the door
is ajar.
Continue to add small pieces of wood until a bed
of hot glowing coals is established.
Place two or three thoroughly dry split logs (about
80-100mm diameter) on the well established fire.
Logs will burn better if they are placed with their
ends near the glass, ie front to back.
Leave the air control on high for about 30
minutes. After this time, the firebox should be hot
enough for normal operation, so you can turn
down to medium or low.
Adding fresh wood cools the fire down, so when
you need to replenish the fuel, turn the air control
to high for about 30 minutes to bring the firebox
temperatures back up to normal
Always leave the air control on high for at least 30
minutes after reloading.
8

USING YOUR HEATER
9
A FEW HINTS
Wood should be stacked front to back - with the
ends facing the door - and with space between
them for air to flow around.
The door should remain closed at all times except
when first establishing the fire and when loading.
There are many factors that can affect the way
your heater burns, including flue height, wood
type, shape, amount, the way it is stacked, wind
conditions and outside air temperatures to name
a few. You will find that before long you will get to
know how your heater works best for you.
OVERNIGHT BURNS
Large unsplit logs are the best fuel to use.
Make sure you have a good strong bed of glowing
coals and the heater is hot before loading the
logs.
Place a load of wood on the strong base fire and
coals, shut the door and leave on high for about
30 minutes or until the logs are charred all over.
Turn down to low.
RESTARTING AFTER AN
OVERNIGHT BURN
Adjust air control to high.
Rake the hot coals.
Place some kindling and small logs on the coals.
Once the fire is established, start putting on larger
logs.
REMOVING ASHES
When the ashes are level with the firebox opening,
it’s time for a clean out. This should only be done
when the firebox has completely cooled.
Removing hot ashes is hazardous.
Push chunks of charred wood to one side. These
will burn in the next fire, so it would be a shame to
waste them. Using a metal scoop, remove excess
ash and place in a metal container.
You should leave a small amount of ash in the
firebox to provide an insulating base for the next
fire. Rake them over so they form a flat bed.
When disposing of the ashes, keep them in a
metal or other non-combustible container with a
tight fitting lid. Move them outdoors immediately
to an area clear of combustible materials. Do not
place them in plastic receptacles.
HEATER FANS
All Kent Evolution heaters are fitted with a fan. The
fan should only be used on “high” or “boost”
when the air control is on the maximum setting.
The fan should never be used when the air setting
is on “low” or overnight setting.
We also recommend not using the fan until 30
minutes after the fire is first lit.
The fan installed in your heater is fitted with an
over temperature safety device.
The fan may stop if the pre-set temperature is
exceeded. The fan will restart when it has cooled
to a safe temperature. This is normal operation for
this safety device.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Your heater has been designed as a heavy duty appliance capable of withstanding normal operating conditions.
CARE
The firebox liners where fitted must be treated with
care. Avoid throwing logs into the firebox as this
may fracture the liners.
CLEANING
To clean painted surfaces, wipe over with a soft,
damp cloth. Do not use harsh solvents and
cleaning agents as these can damage the
coating. Buff dry with a soft, dry cloth.
If your heater is installed in a coastal environment,
where salt air will come in contact with the heater,
this cleaning process should be performed weekly
to avoid the salt causing deterioration of the paint
and subsequently rust.
Door glass: sometimes black deposits will build
up on the inside of the door glass. To remove this
build up, rub gently with a plastic scourer pad
moistened with water and detergent. Then use the
damp and dry cloths as before. Hot glass cleaner
is also available from your heater retailer.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE
At beginning of the season and at least every 8
weeks during the season
*Inspect and clean the flue system. To do this,
remove the baffle plate and flue cowl, and
clean out with a flue brush.
*Check the painted surfaces. If there is any
wear, for instance from cleaning or abrasion,
touch up paint is available from your dealer.
At end of season
*Inspect the door glass for any cracks and
replace if necessary.
*Inspect door rope and seals and replace if
necessary.
*Inspect firebox for wear or excessive corrosion.
*Inspect firebricks where fitted and replace if
broken.
*Check that the air slide moves smoothly. If it is
sticky, lubricate it with high temperature grease
available from your local hardware store.
CREOSOTE BUILD UP
When the heater is continually burnt with lower
than normal fire temperatures, eg due to
unseasoned wood, higher than acceptable
amounts of smoke are produced which condense
on the inside of the flue. This builds up as a black,
tar-like deposit called creosote.
A thin layer of creosote inside the flue is normal
and will not cause a problem. Once there is a
layer more than 3mm thick, problems can occur.
1. If the layer is thick enough, it restricts the flue
and can cause insufficient draw and even
smoke spillage back into the house.
2. More seriously, creosote is combustible, and
can ignite. A flue fire is easy to detect, involving
a roaring sound, a vibration of the flue, and
sometimes flames and sparks shoot out of the
top of the flue.
To avoid creosote build up and the fires that may
result, burn seasoned wood with the air control set
to medium or high for most of the time.
To remove creosote when it does build up, remove
the baffle plate and flue cowl, and use a flue brush
to clean the flue system. To remove the baffle
plate, slide the plate up on one side and then
down around the brackets on the other.
In case of a flue fire, do not panic. Your flue system
has been constructed to withstand high
temperatures. Immediately close the air control
down to its lowest setting. Do not open the door.
Once the fire has extinguished, you should have
your flue system inspected by a qualified service
person.
10

CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
Caring for our planet means reducing pollution and managing our resources intelligently. Every resource we use
today we are borrowing from our future generations.
The key to successfully meeting our future energy requirements lies in our ability to manage existing resources
wisely. Unlike fossil fuels such as oil, coal and gas, wood can be managed on a sustainable basis.
This is why wood is one of the wisest, most cost effective and environmentally efficient forms of home heating
available today.
You can make a further positive contribution to the environment by following these important steps:-
OPERATING YOUR HEATER
*Always burn good, dry hardwood. This will
yield the greatest amount of heat for the least
amount of fuel.
*Never burn green or unseasoned wood, or
wood that is wet. This will waste energy, cause
excessive smoke and reduce the performance
of your wood heater.
*Do not allow your wood to smoulder. Your fire
should always burn brightly and cleanly. Check
the flue occasionally to see if there is any
excessive smoke.
OTHER THINGS YOU CAN DO
*Ensure your home is adequately insulated. This
will reduce your energy requirements, and
lessen your fuel bills, or the need to gather fuel.
This in turn reduces pollution.
*Do not overheat your home! If you feel hot
even when wearing light clothing, then you are
wasting energy.
*Install ceiling fans in the main rooms. These
are an excellent investment in year round
comfort. Because hot air rises, ceiling fans
push this hot air back closer to ground level to
keep you warmer.
LANDCARE
A portion of the sale of your heater is donated
directly to Landcare by the Australian Home
Heating Association.
Landcare is one of the most proactive community
based environmental groups in Australia today.
Almost 5000 Landcare groups have sprouted
across Australia and like the millions of trees
Landcare has planted, they're still growing. One
of three farmers is a member of Landcare.
These groups get involved in activities like tree
planting and revegetation, weed removal,
fencing, feral animal control, water quality
monitoring, nature surveys, riverbank repair, and
sustainable agricultural techniques.
Landcare groups are usually formed because
there is a problem. Locals notice changes in their
environment and decide to do something about it.
Landcare groups can grow out of neighbouring
farms, or neighbours in the city that share a local
park. Landcare groups are working on all
imaginable ecosystems in Australia, from dry and
dusty central Australia, to tropical rainforests of
Queensland and the mountains in Tasmania.
WOOD HEATING IS GOOD HEATING
11

NEED ACCESSORIES?
Your Kent dealer also sells a range of attractive, good
value accessories for your heater like mesh guards,
toolsets and wood baskets.
Also, you can ask about maintenance products,
firelighters, touch up paint, flue cleaning products and
more.
G.L.G. Australia Pty Ltd
Building A2, Campus Business Park,
350-374 Parramatta Road Homebush NSW 2140
HIPA-099N
17032016