KENT Fairlight User manual

Tested and approved to Australian Standards AS/NZS
2918:2001 and AS/NZS 4013/4012:2014.
Prior to installation check with your state and local
authorities regarding any specific regulations that may
apply.
Please keep these instructions for future reference.
Burn hardwood only.
OwnersManual
WoodHeater
For
Fairlight
PLEASE ENSURE ALL PACKAGING MATERIALS ARE
REMOVED FROM THE FIREBOX BEFORE YOUR FIRST FIRE.
Pricotech proudly supports
the activities of Landcare
Australia through its
membership of the AHHA

FIRST THINGS FIRST...
Congratulations on your purchase of a quality Kent wood heater. This product is designed according to strict
environmental, quality and safety standards and should give you years of trouble free home heating.
Read these instructions carefully to get the most out of your heater and to ensure safe and satisfactory heater
performance. In particular, we would like to draw your attention to these warnings.
ExclusionofLiability
Whilst every care has been taken in formulating these instructions, no responsibility whatsoever will attach to
and/or claim lie against, the manufacturer and/or the distributor of the heater as a result of any failure to follow
the whole or any part of the instructions and/or as a result of incorrect information herein and/or any omission
here from.
2
Becarefulofwhatyouburn:
*Use only dry, well seasoned hardwood.
*Do not use coal or briquettes.
*WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR
REKINDLE THE FIRE.
*Do not burn garbage in the firebox as garbage
can cause a dangerous soot build up and
increase the amount of smoke your heater
produces.
*Do not burn chemically treated timber as the
poisonous gases given off could damage your
stove.
*CAUTION: THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF
PRESERVATIVE-TREATED WOOD AS FUEL
CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
*Do not place any types of builders board eg
fibro, cement sheeting (or any other materials
not specified and tested by the manufacturer)
inside the firebox.
Protect yourself and your family from
burns:
*WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL
BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
*The exterior surfaces of the heater will become
hot during operation. For protection of
children, the elderly or infirm, provide a
firescreen to prevent contact with the
appliance in operation.
*To protect against injury from burns, use
caution when operating the appliance. In
particular, when loading the firebox, provide
adequate protection for your hands.
Use your heater according to these
instructions:
*CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE
MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES
I N A C C O R D A N C E W I T H T H E S E
INSTRUCTIONS.
*DO NOT BURN WITH DOOR OPEN.
*CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT
BE OPERATED WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
*Do not throw logs into the firebox. Always
place logs carefully.
*Do not overfire (allow firebox to glow red) as
this could damage your firebox.
*WARNING: ANY MODIFICATION OF
THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN
APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED
AS BREACHING AS/NZS 4013.
*The appliance or flue system should not be
modified in any way without the written
approval of the manufacturer.
The heater can get very hot, so watch
obviousfirehazards:
*Do not place clothing or other combustible
materials on top of the heater.
*WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE
LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS OR PLACE
THESE IN THE VICINITY OF THIS
APPLIANCE WHEN IT IS OPERATING.
*WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL
WITHIN HEATER INSTALLATION
CLEARANCES.
*Do not store flammable liquids near the
heater.

3
- GENERAL NOTES
INSTALLATION
BEFORE BEGINNING
Before beginning the installation of your wood
heater, you should note the following precautions:
*WARNING: THE APPLIANCE AND
FLUE-SYSTEM SHALL BE INSTALLED IN
ACCORDANCE WITH AS/NZS 2918
A N D T H E A P P R O P R I A T E
REQUIREMENTS OF THE RELEVANT
BUILDING CODE OR CODES.
*WARNING: APPLIANCES INSTALLED IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THIS STANDARD
S H A L L C O M P L Y W I T H T H E
REQUIREMENTS OF AS/NZS 4013
WHERE REQUIRED BY THE REGULATORY
AUTHORITY I.E. THE APPLIANCE SHALL
BE IDENTIFIABLE BY A COMPLIANCE
PLATE WITH THE MARKING ‘TESTED TO
AS/NZS 4013.
*WARNING: ANY MODIFICATION OF THE
APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN
APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE
TESTING AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED
TO BE IN BREACH OF THE APPROVAL
GRANTED FOR COMPLIANCE WITH
AS/NZS 4013.
*CAUTION: CRACKED AND BROKEN
COMPONENTS, e.g. GLASS PANELS, MAY
RENDER THE INSTALLATION UNSAFE.
*It is strongly recommended that a
certified/qualified installer perform the
installation.
*You may need to get council approval prior to
installation.
*You should also check with your insurer for any
requirements they may have.
FLUE INSTALLATION
The correct flue system is critical to the
performance of your wood heater. It must either
be tested with the heater or be a default flue kit.
The flue must be sealed where it enters the heater
at the flue spigot.
We recommend you use an appropriate Maxiheat
flue kit.
CAUTION: MIXING OF APPLIANCE OR FLUE-
SYSTEM COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT
SOURCES OR MODIFYING THE DIMENSIONAL
SPECIFICATION OF COMPONENTS MAY
RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDITIONS. WHERE
SUCH ACTION IS CONSIDERED, THE
MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE CONSULTED IN
THE FIRST INSTANCE.
FLUE HEIGHT REQUIREMENTS
Your flue must extend the required height above
your roof to promote sufficient draught. If the flue
is not high enough, the heater will not “draw”
properly causing smoke to spill back into the
room.
The following conditions should be observed:
*The minimum height of the active flue must be
4.6m in length measured from the top of the
hearth to the flue termination point.
*If the flue terminates within 3 m from the
highest point of the roof, then the flue must be
a minimum of 0.6 m above the highest point.
*If the flue terminates further than 3 m from the
highest point of the roof, then the flue must be
a minimum of 1 m above roof penetration.
*The flue must clear any ridge or obstruction
within a 3m radius by a minimum of 1m.
The installer must ensure that the heater and flue
are correctly and safely installed in accordance
with AS/NZS 2918.
There are other variables that can affect draught
(eg trees or tall buildings nearby). If you have the
correct flue height and still have problems, consult
your dealer.

INSTALLATION
LOCATION
Select a location for your wood heater with great
care.
*Do not place your heater in areas of high
traffic, near furniture or draperies.
*Check that the intended location will not
interfere with ceiling joists, rafters, valleys and
ridges.
HEARTH REQUIREMENTS
If your wood heater is to be installed on carpet,
timber or any other combustible material, you
must place a hearth (also known as a floor
protector) underneath the heater. Please observe
the following:
*The hearth must consist of at least 7.5 mm
thick compressed fibre cement sheet with a
thermal conductivity not greater than 0.33
W/m°K
*The top surface of the hearth must be no less
than 40 mm above the floor.
*The hearth must be no less than 1150 mm
wide
*It is not recommended that you make your own
hearth
*The hearth and heater assembly must be
placed on a firm and level surface.
HEARTH CLEARANCES
It is necessary to ensure that the heater is
positioned on the hearth so that the following
requirements are observed:
*The front of the hearth should extend past the
front of the heater by 400 mm.
*The side of the hearth should extend past the
firebox opening by minimum 200 mm on each
side.
HEATER CLEARANCES
It is vital that the heater be installed the proper
distance from combustible surfaces like wood,
gyprock and curtains. These minimum distances,
which you need to observe for your particular
heater are stated below. The diagrams show both
parallel and corner installations.
Please note the heater clearances are to the upper
body of the heater and not to the bench.
Failure to maintain these minimum distances may
result in a fire for which your insurer may refuse to
cover.
REDUCED CLEARANCES
These clearances can be reduced with proper
heat shielding. Basically a noncombustible
surface is placed between the heater and the
combustible wall. It is vital that an unobstructed
air flow be maintained between the two surfaces
to remove excess heat.
A
B
ParallelInstallation
CornerInstallation HearthClearances
C
DE
Clearances
Fairlight
with Maxiheat Ironbark flue kit (MXFKT3K), includes double shield
(1 inner + 1 outer)
with Maxiheat Decromesh Default flue kit with inner (MXRSISS)
between active and decromesh and outer (MXRSOB) shield on rear
EDCBA
All dimensions are in millimetres
2 0010350200
20010375175 400
400
- FREESTANDING MODEL ONLY
4

INSTALLATION
- INSERT MODEL ONLY
5
Your insert heater comes with a zero clearance outer casing, which allows it to be fitted into a combustible wall
using the frame dimensions and clearances below.
The appliance must be installed by a qualified wood heater installer according to the latest version of AS2918.
Please note that the enclosure must be sealed from external draughts and vermin.
CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES
The diagram below shows the minimum
clearances (in millimetres) from the zero
clearance box to combustible materials.
The clearances include distances to the timber
framing, any side walls and to the ceiling.
- There must be no less than 350 mm between the
floor and the bottom of the zero clearance box
(this refers to the bottom face of the support
channels).
- There must be no less than 30 mm between the
side of the zero clearance box and any
combustible material.
- There must be no less than 450 mm between
combustible side wall and the side of the zero
clearance box.
- There must be no less than 400 mm between the
top of the zero clearance box to any internal
structural timbers. Please note you may need to
use a metal brace to support the cladding
directly above the heater.
HEARTH CONSTRUCTION
If you are installing your heater on a combustible
heat-sensitive floor, then you must use a hearth
with your heater.
The hearth shall consist of no less than 5 mm thick
compressed fibre cement sheet. The cement sheet
shall have thermal conductivity not greater than
0.33 W/m°K.
The hearth must extend a minimum of 300 mm in
front of the heater and no less than 200 mm from
either side of the door opening. The hearth must
be a minimum 1150 mm wide.
CLADDING
The frame and cladding must extend to the
ceiling.
The front wall of the enclosure must consist of
non-combustible material. The non-combustible
material must extend from the floor protector to a
minimum height of 1000 mm above the top of the
zero clearance box.
For ease of construction, it is recommended that
the full height of the front wall be constructed of
non-combustible material.
The non-combustible material must extend no
less than 65 mm either side of the zero clearance
box. If desired, the width of the front wall may be
extended.
1000
to ceiling
400
450
30
65^ 580
350
^ Please refer to note in
‘Cladding’ section

INSTALLATION
- INSERT MODEL ONLY
CLADDING INSTALLATION
Please note that the heater fascia is smaller than
the front of the zero clearance outer casing. So,
when you are fitting the cladding to your
enclosure, you will need to ‘sandwich’ the
cladding in between the heater fascia and the zero
clearance casing.
Please refer to the following steps to assist you in
fitting the cladding to the front of your enclosure.
Before you proceed, we recommend you remove
the door by lifting it up and off the hinge bracket.
1
Remove the Fascia
a. Firstly, remove the bottom bar from the fascia
assembly. Lift the bottom bar up and away
from the fascia assembly.
b. The fascia body is attached by 4 screws.
Remove these screws and set them aside.
Carefully slide the fascia forward to remove.
Please be aware that the fan wiring is
connected to the rear of the fascia. This wiring
will need to disconnected prior to installing the
cladding. You will need to reconnect the
wiring, so please take note of the connections.
If unsure of any electrical connections or any
problems arise, please contact an electrical
contractor.
2
Reposition Heater Body
There are 2 screws
holding the heater
body to the zero
clearance casing.
These are located
at the bottom, in
front of the fans.
U n d o t h e s e 2
screws and set
aside.
Slide the heater body forward to allow for the
cladding to fit in between the zero clearance
casing and the heater body.
T h e g a p s h o w n b e l o w o n l y n e e d s t o
accommodate the thickness of the cladding.
screwslocatedhere
allowfor
cladding
thickness
3
Cladding Cutout Dimensions
The cutout for the cladding should be 585 mm
high by 980 mm wide.
The bottom of the cutout should sit up against the
base of the heater body casing.
Follow step 1 in reverse to reattach the fascia.
6
a
b

INSTALLATION
- INSERT MODEL ONLY
HEATER DIMENSIONS
VENTILATION
Ventilation to the enclosure is required to allow air
to flow through the enclosure and maximum heat
return. The air vents can be placed on the sides of
the enclosure or on the front.
The vents need to have a minimum open area of
19,600 mm² (9,800 mm² top and 9,800 mm²
bottom) and must be placed at the top and
bottom of the enclosure.
The bottom air vents must not be installed any
higher than above the floor and the top200 mm
air vents must not be installed any lower than 215
mm from the ceiling.
Examples of typical installations are shown in the
following diagrams:
1071
550
626
1145
632
30
Top View
Front View
Side View
215
200
215
200
292
19
7

ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW HEATER
- BENCH FOR FREESTANDING MODEL
The heater body can be placed on the bench in three different positions: centred, to the left or to the right.
We recommend you place the bench in its final position before fixing the heater body into place.
Before you fix the heater body to the bench, you
will need to assemble the fan air deflector and
reposition the fans.
Please note that the bench comes pre-assembled
with the fans positioned in the centre.
1
Remove the Cover Panel
For access to the heater body mounting holes and
fans, you will need to remove the cover panel on
the underside of the bench.
Undo the 8 screws holding the cover panel in
place. Set these aside.
2
Assembling the Fan Air Deflector
Before you assemble the air deflector, you will
need to remove the two fans in the bench.
Undo the 8 screws holding fans in place. Set these
aside.
3
Positioning the Fans
Place the fans into the desired position and fix into
place with the screws that were set aside in step 2.
The mounting hole locations for the fans are
shown on the following page.
Use x 3, x 3 and x 3
Insert the bolts through the top of the bench and
fix into place with the hex spacers. Put the fan air
deflector into place and secure with the nuts.
8

ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW HEATER
- BENCH FOR FREESTANDING MODEL
4
Mount Heater Body to Bench
For ease of assembly, we recommend you remove
the firebricks, brick retainers and door from the
heater body before placing it onto the bench.
Position the heater body onto the bench. Take
care not to damage the bench surface.
If you would like to position your heater body in
the , place the fans in the locations showncentre
below:
If you would like to position your heater body to
the , place the fans in the locations shownleft
below:
FAN FAN
If you would like to position your heater body to
the , place the fans in the locations shownright
below:
FAN FAN
FAN FAN
Use x 4
Secure the heater body to the bench with the 4
bolts (provided).
Replace the cover panel and fix into place with the
8 screws.
LEFT
CENTRE
RIGHT
LEFT
CENTRE
RIGHT
Align the mounting blocks with the holes in the top
face of the bench. The holes to be used are
outlined below.
mounting
blocks
mounting
blocks
9

ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW HEATER
- FREESTANDING AND INSERT MODEL
Once your heater is in place, there is only a simple matter of putting the firebricks and baffle plate into place and
your heater is ready to use.
FIREBRICKS AND BAFFLE PLATE
The firebricks and baffle plate MUST be installed
prior to operating the appliance. Refer to the
following diagrams to ensure that they are
installed correctly.
Place the rear and bottom firebricks in first. Please
note that these firebricks are similar in size. The
rear firebricks are 200 mm high by 275 mm wide.
The bottom firebricks are 270 mm deep by 255
mm wide.
Place the rear brick retainer over the rear
firebricks.
rear brick
retainer
The side firebricks have an angled cut on the top
edge. Place these firebricks into the firebox so that
the shorter edge is at the rear of the firebox and
the longer edge is at the front.
The top face of the front firebricks are cut at an angle.
Place these firebricks into the firebox so that the top
face sits horizontally.
Next, place the rear baffle holder into the firebox.
This sits on top of the side firebricks at the rear of
the firebox. There are two locating holes in the
holder that sit over pins in the rear of the firebox.
Place the front baffle holder into the firebox. This
sits on top of the side firebricks towards the front of
the firebox. There are two locating holes in the
holder that sit over pins at the front of the firebox.
The baffle comes in 3 pieces with cutouts along
the edges to allow them to nest together.
Place the two side baffle pieces in first, then put the
middle baffle piece in place.
10

WOOD SELECTION
Few things affect the performance of your heater as much as the fuel you burn. Take note of the following:
WHAT NOT TO BURN
*Softwood (except kindling)
*Wet or unseasoned wood
*Treated or painted timber
*Saltwater wood
*Coal or charcoal
*Garbage, plastic etc
*Any solvents, kerosene, petrol or any
flammable liquid.
WHAT TO BURN
Quite simply, dry seasoned hardwood.
From when wood is first cut down, it takes up to 12
months of dry storage for the wood to season
properly. The seasoning process is underway
when cracks begin to appear at the ends of cut
timber.
Use of moist or unseasoned wood will result in
excessive smoke, longer startup times, a lazy
flame that requires more air to stay alight,
creosote build up in the flue and on the door
glass, and a much less powerful fire. The reason is
simple. Heat that would normally be going into
the room is wasted boiling water that is trapped
inside the wood. This poor performance costs you
money in wasted fuel and increased
maintenance.
It is difficult to determine if wood is dry just by
looking at it. If you can hear the wood sizzle and
hiss, or can see moisture bubbling from the wood
surface, then your wood is too wet. In practice, the
best thing you can do is to be sure of the source.
Buy your wood from reputable wood merchants.
Make sure you store the wood correctly.
WOOD STORAGE
It is important that wood be stored under cover.
Even wood that is years old will absorb large
quantities of moisture if exposed to the elements.
It is advisable that wood is stacked to allow some
air flow in and around the logs. This will help keep
the wood dry.
WOOD SPLITTING
It is best to have on hand a good range of wood
sizes to help control the fire. The rule of thumb is:
the hotter the fire, the bigger the log you can put
in.
*You need very small pieces of kindling to get
the fire started efficiently.
*Small pieces up to about 50mm thick are good
when the fire is still being established, or when
you want to revive a fire that has burnt low.
*Larger logs are excellent for long burns once
the fire is well established.
11

USING YOUR HEATER
Before using your wood heater, study this entire section carefully. It will assist you in achieving maximum efficiency
and enjoyment.
Please ensure all packaging materials are removed from the firebox before your first fire.
CURING THE PAINT
Various parts of your heater have been coated
with high quality paints to protect them and to give
them an attractive finish. You will need to “break-
in” your heater to harden or cure these coatings.
While curing, be careful not to touch the painted
surfaces as the paint will be quite soft.
The basic rule is: cure slowly, over about three
burns, without a hot fire. During the curing
process it is normal for some smoke and smell to
be given off from the surface of the heater. Each
time, some windows should be opened to allow
the paint odours to escape. Using a fan also helps
disperse the odours. For this reason it is best done
during the day.
1. The first fire should be kindling only and should
last for about 20 minutes. Leave the door
slightly ajar to stop the door rope from sticking.
2. Once the heater has cooled down, repeat the
process.
3. The third fire should be a normal fire of at least
45 minutes.
By this time, your heater should be cured. In
colder conditions, , it may take slightly longer. The
house should be ventilated until all odours are
gone.
OPERATING THE AIR CONTROL
You can control whether your heater burns on
high or low with the air control lever found on the
front of the heater. The high and low position is
clearly marked on your heater.
For low burns - Use this setting for low burning, or
for extended burn times.
For medium burns - This is the optimal setting for
normal use.
For high burns - Use this setting for starting the fire
and for at least 30 minutes after loading and
reloading.
LIGHTING THE FIRE
Wood burns most efficiently when placed in a very
hot fire. These procedures are designed to bring
your firebox to the right temperature as quickly as
possible.
Put the air control on high.
Place a large amount of kindling in a criss-cross
pattern over a firelighter. Make sure plenty of air
can get into the stack and around each piece of
kindling.
Add a few small pieces of wood on top.
Ignite the firelighter.
Continue to add small pieces of wood until a bed
of hot glowing coals is established.
Place two or three thoroughly dry split logs (about
80-100mm diameter) on the well established fire.
Logs will burn better if they are placed with their
ends near the glass, ie front to back.
Leave the air control on high for about 30
minutes. After this time, the firebox should be hot
enough for normal operation, so you can turn
down to medium or low.
Adding fresh wood cools the fire down, so when
you need to replenish the fuel, turn the air control
to high for about 30 minutes to bring the firebox
temperatures back up to normal
Always leave the air control on high for at least 30
minutes after reloading.
12

USING YOUR HEATER
REMOVING ASHES
When the ashes are level with the firebox opening,
it’s time for a clean out. This should only be done
when the firebox has completely cooled.
Removing hot ashes is hazardous.
Push chunks of charred wood to one side. These
will burn in the next fire, so it would be a shame to
waste them. Using a metal scoop, remove excess
ash and place in a metal container.
When disposing of the ashes, keep them in a
metal or other non-combustible container with a
tight fitting lid. Move them outdoors immediately
to an area clear of combustible materials. Do not
place them in plastic receptacles.
DOOR HANDLE
The door handle on your heater will become very
hot during operation, especially during high
burns.
We recommend you wear gloves to open the
door.
HEATER FAN
Your Kent heater is fitted with two fans. The fan
should only be used on “high” or “boost” when the
air control is on the maximum setting.
The fan should never be used when the air setting is
on “low” or overnight setting.
We also recommend not using the fan until 30
minutes after the fire is first lit.
A FEW HINTS
Wood should be stacked front to back - with the
ends facing the door - and with space between
them for air to flow around.
The door should remain closed at all times except
when first establishing the fire and when loading.
There are many factors that can affect the way
your heater burns, including flue height, wood
type, shape, amount, the way it is stacked, wind
conditions and outside air temperatures to name
a few. You will find that before long you will get to
know how your heater works best for you.
OVERNIGHT BURNS
Large unsplit logs are the best fuel to use.
Make sure you have a good strong bed of glowing
coals and the heater is hot before loading the
logs.
Place a load of wood on the strong base fire and
coals, shut the door and leave on high for about
30 minutes or until the logs are charred all over.
Turn down to low.
R E S T A R T I N G A F T E R A N
OVERNIGHT BURN
Adjust air control to high.
Rake the hot coals.
Place some kindling and small logs on the coals.
Once the fire is established, start putting on larger
logs.
13

CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Your heater has been designed as a heavy duty appliance capable of withstanding normal operating conditions.
CARE
The firebox liners where fitted must be treated with
care. Avoid throwing logs into the firebox as this
may fracture the liners.
CLEANING
To clean painted surfaces, wipe over with a soft,
damp cloth. Do not use harsh solvents and
cleaning agents as these can damage the
coating. Buff dry with a soft, dry cloth.
If your heater is installed in a coastal environment,
where salt air will come in contact with the heater,
this cleaning process should be performed weekly
to avoid the salt causing deterioration of the paint
and subsequently rust.
Sometimes black deposits will build up on the
inside of the door glass. To remove this build up,
rub gently with a plastic scourer pad moistened
with water and detergent. Then use the damp and
dry cloths as before. Hot glass cleaner is also
available from your heater retailer.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE
At beginning of the season:
*Inspect and clean the flue system. To do this,
remove the baffle plate and flue cowl, and
clean out with a flue brush.
*Check the painted surfaces. If there is any
wear, for instance from cleaning or abrasion,
touch up paint is available from your dealer.
At end of season
*Inspect the door glass for any cracks and
replace if necessary.
*Inspect door rope and seals and replace if
necessary.
*Inspect firebox for wear or excessive corrosion.
*Inspect firebricks where fitted and replace if
broken.
*Check that the air slide moves smoothly. If it is
sticky, lubricate it with high temperature grease
available from your local hardware store.
CREOSOTE BUILD UP
When the heater is continually burnt with lower
than normal fire temperatures, eg due to
unseasoned wood, higher than acceptable
amounts of smoke are produced which condense
on the inside of the flue. This builds up as a black,
tar-like deposit called creosote.
A thin layer of creosote inside the flue is normal
and will not cause a problem. Once there is a
layer more than 3mm thick, problems can occur.
1. If the layer is thick enough, it restricts the flue
and can cause insufficient draw and even
smoke spillage back into the house.
2. More seriously, creosote is combustible, and
can ignite. A flue fire is easy to detect, involving
a roaring sound, a vibration of the flue, and
sometimes flames and sparks shoot out of the
top of the flue.
To avoid creosote build up and the fires that may
result, burn seasoned wood with the air control set
to medium or high for most of the time.
To remove creosote when it does build up, remove
the baffle plate and flue cowl, and use a flue brush
to clean the flue system. To remove the baffle
plate, slide the plate up on one side and then
down around the brackets on the other.
In case of a flue fire, do not panic. Your flue system
has been constructed to withstand high
temperatures. Immediately close the air control
down to its lowest setting. Do not open the door.
Once the fire has extinguished, you should have
your flue system inspected by a qualified service
person.
14

CARING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
Caring for our planet means reducing pollution and managing our resources intelligently. Every resource we use
today we are borrowing from our future generations.
The key to successfully meeting our future energy requirements lies in our ability to manage existing resources
wisely. Unlike fossil fuels such as oil, coal and gas, wood can be managed on a sustainable basis.
This is why wood is one of the wisest, most cost effective and environmentally efficient forms of home heating
available today.
You can make a further positive contribution to the environment by following these important steps:-
OPERATING YOUR HEATER
*Always burn good, dry hardwood. This will
yield the greatest amount of heat for the least
amount of fuel.
*Never burn green or unseasoned wood, or
wood that is wet. This will waste energy, cause
excessive smoke and reduce the performance
of your wood heater.
*Do not allow your wood to smoulder. Your fire
should always burn brightly and cleanly. Check
the flue occasionally to see if there is any
excessive smoke.
OTHER THINGS YOU CAN DO
*Ensure your home is adequately insulated. This
will reduce your energy requirements, and
lessen your fuel bills, or the need to gather fuel.
This in turn reduces pollution.
*Do not overheat your home! If you feel hot
even when wearing light clothing, then you are
wasting energy.
*Install ceiling fans in the main rooms. These
are an excellent investment in year round
comfort. Because hot air rises, ceiling fans
push this hot air back closer to ground level to
keep you warmer.
LANDCARE
A portion of the sale of your heater is donated
directly to Landcare by the Australian Home
Heating Association.
Landcare is one of the most proactive community
based environmental groups in Australia today.
Almost 5000 Landcare groups have sprouted
across Australia and like the millions of trees
Landcare has planted, they're still growing. One
of three farmers is a member of Landcare.
These groups get involved in activities like tree
planting and revegetation, weed removal,
fencing, feral animal control, water quality
monitoring, nature surveys, riverbank repair, and
sustainable agricultural techniques.
Landcare groups are usually formed because
there is a problem. Locals notice changes in their
environment and decide to do something about it.
Landcare groups can grow out of neighbouring
farms, or neighbours in the city that share a local
park. Landcare groups are working on all
imaginable ecosystems in Australia, from dry and
dusty central Australia, to tropical rainforests of
Queensland and the mountains in Tasmania.
WOOD HEATING IS GOOD HEATING
15

NEED ACCESSORIES?
Your Kent dealer also sells a range of attractive, good
value accessories for your heater like mesh guards,
toolsets and wood baskets.
Also, you can ask about maintenance products,
firelighters, touch up paint, flue cleaning products and
more.
G.L.G. Australia Pty Ltd
Building A2, Campus Business Park,
350-374 Parramatta Road Homebush NSW 2140
HINS-213D
05012018