laguna 18bx User manual

Producer:
Laguna Tools Inc
744 Refuge Way, Suite 200
Grand Prairie, Texas 75050
USA
Phone: [phone]
Website: www.lagunatools.com
Distributor:
IGM nástroje a stroje s.r.o.
Ke Kopanině 560, 252 67, Tuchoměřice
Czech Republic, EU
Phone: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.igmtools.com
2022-02-23
151-18BX LAGUNA Bandsaw Manual EN v1.12 A4ob
www.igmtools.info
PDF ONLINE
18BX
Bandsaw
Operating Instructions

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EC DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY
We
(Manufacturer)
Laguna Tools Inc.
2072 Alton Parkway, Irvine, California 92606, USA
Declare that the product name: Woodworking Band Saw
Model Name :
14-twelve Bandsaw, 14bx Bandsaw, 18bx Bandsaw
Conform with the essential safety requirements of the relevant European Directive:
-Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC
-Electromagnetic Compatibility Directive 2014/30/EU
The person who compile technical file established within the EU:
Name:
IGM nastroje a stroje s.r.o.
Address:
Tel.:
Email:
Ke Kopanine 560, Tuchomerice , CZ-252 67
[phone]
[e-mail]
Mounting and connecting instructions defined in catalogues and technical construction files must be respected
by the user.
They are based on the following standards：
EN ISO 12100:2010 Safety of Machinery - General principles for design / Risk Assessment and Risk reduction.
EN 1807-1:2013 Safety of woodworking machines —Band sawing machines —Part 1: Table band saws and
band re- saws
EN 60204-1:2018/ Safety of machinery –Electrical equipment of machines, part 1: General requirements.
EN 13849-1:2015 Safety of machinery –Safety –related parts of control systems Part 1: General principles for
design
EN 50370 -1:2005 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) –Product family standard for machine tools –Part 1:
Emission.
EN 50370 -2:2003 Electromagnetic compatibility (EMC) –Product family standard for machine tools –Part 2:
Immunity.
EN 61000-4-2: 2009 Electrostatic (ESD)
EN 61000-4-4: 2012 Electrical fast transient/burst requirements (EFT/Burst)
EN 61000-4-6: 2014 Immunity to conducted disturbances, induced by radio-frequency fields (CS)
Responsible for the documentation: Head Product Management, Laguna Tools Inc.
Name : Torben Helshoj
Responsibility
Authorized Signature
Date : Oct. 15, 2021
Place : Laguna Tools Inc.
2072 Alton Parkway, Irvine, California 92606, USA
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

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Obsah
1. Declaration of Conformity
1.1 Warranty
2. About this Manual
3. 18BX Specications
3.1 Parts of the Bandsaw
3.2 Specication
3.3 Noise emission
4. General safety
4.1 Safety instructions
5. Unpacking your machine
5.1 Transport and unpacking
5.2 Unpacking
5.3 What you will receive with the bandsaw
5.4 Locating your bandsaw
5.5 Locking the bandsaw
6. Assembly and set up
6.1 Assembling the rubber feet
6.2 Assembling the optional mobility kit
6.3 Fitting the table
6.4 Fitting the table rule
6.5 Fitting the fence
6.6 Fitting the table insert and Fence Stopper
6.7 Fitting the optional light
6.8 Connecting the bandsaw to the
electricity supply
7. Testing the bandsaw
7.1 Before starting the bandsaw
7.2 Fitting a blade to the bandsaw
7.3 Tracking the blade
7.4 Tensioning the blade
7.5 Adjusting the blade guards
7.6 Adjusting the blade guides
8. Using the bandsaw
8.1 Adjusting the fence
8.2 Selecting the Right Blade
8.3 How to coil a bandsaw blade
9. Maintenance
10. Troubleshooting
________________________________
1. Declaration of Conformity
We declare that this product is in compliance
with the directive and the standard mentioned
on the previous page of this manual.
1.1 Warranty
IGM Tools & Machinery strives to always
deliver high-quality machinery. The warranty is
governed by the valid terms and conditions of
IGM Tools & Machinery available at
www.igmtools.com.
2. About this Manual
This manual is intended to thoroughly cover
the setup up, maintenance, and proper
adjustments of your new purchase. Aside from
the proceeding general safety considerations,
this manual DOES NOT cover woodworking
or metalworking techniques that are possible
with this product and the appropriate safety
precautions necessary for safe practices. There
are several organizations with published safe
practices, techniques, and proper operation of
this tool. Or look for handy tips and instructions
at www.igmtools.com.
3. 18BX Specications
The bandsaw is generally dened as a saw
blade in the form of an endless steel band that
rotates around two or more wheels. This blade
is a continuous metal band with teeth on one
side. As the wheels rotate, so does the band,
which creates the continuous sawing action.
3.1 Parts of the Bandsaw
1. Tension indicator window
2. Switch
3. Motor
4. Frame
5. Blade tension handle
6. Blade tracking window
7. Cast iron table
8. Blade guide adjustment hand wheel
9. Blade guide
10. Rip fence assembly
11. Dust port 100mm
12. Quick-release blade tension lever
13. Blade tracking knob
14. Optional mobility kit
15. 400V power socket
16. Blade guide shaft lock knob
17. Flywheel
18. Brake foot pedal
Note: Mobile stand and lighting are optional
accessories
EN - English
Operating Instructions (original)
Dear Woodworker,
Thank you for your purchase and welcome to the Laguna Tools group of discerning woodworkers. We understand that you have a
choice of where to purchase your machines and appreciate the condence you have in the Laguna Tools brand.
Every machine manufactured by Laguna Tools has been carefully designed and well thought through from a woodworker’s perspective.
Through hands-on experience, Laguna Tools is constantly working hard to make innovative, precision products. Products that inspire
you to create works of art, are a joy to run and work on, and encourage your performance.
This bandsaw is designed to give you years of safe service. Read this owner’s manual in its entirety before assembly or use.

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The bandsaw does not have many parts. The
major parts are discussed in this manual. If you
are not familiar with the bandsaw, take the time
to read this section and become familiar with
the machine.
1. Tension indicator/window
Tension indicators are designed to indicate
the compression of a spring. As a rule, the
greater the spring compression, the greater
the tension on the blade. The tension scale
does not register until the blade is relatively
taut and is located on the inside of the body of
the bandsaw. The tension scale is a general
reference and not a rule. It is visible with the
upper door closed by looking through the
tension indicator window.
2. Switch
To start the machine press the “I” button on
the start stop switch. To shut o󰀨 the machine
press the “O” on the start stop switch. When
the safety switch is pressed it stops the power
to the motor. To reset it, twist and it will pop out
and allow power to be supplied to the motor.
.
3. Motor
The bandsaw is supplied with a 2,2kW, 400V
motor. It drives the lower ywheel through a
drive belt.
4. Frame
The frame of the bandsaw is a U-shaped frame,
which houses all the parts of the machine.
This is the heart of the bandsaw and has to be
very rigid, as it takes the strain of the blade
being tensioned.
5. Blade tension handle
The blade tension handle moves the blade
tension and tilt assembly vertically. The vertical
action compresses a spring that ensures
that the blade tension is constant and will
not change dramatically as the blade length
increases due to the heat generated by the
cutting action.
6. Blade tracking window
There is a blade tracking window on the side
of the frame that allows the edge of the upper
ywheel to be viewed. This allows the tracking
of the blade to be achieved with the door
closed.
7. Cast iron table
The table supports the work piece and can tilt
(-6 degrees to +45 degrees) to produce cuts at
various angles. It has a groove to the right-hand
side of the blade, which is used to guide the
miter gauge. In the center there is a table insert
which the blade passes through. Should the
blade wander o󰀨 center, this table insert will
protect the blade from damage, as it is soft and
should not damage the blade. The table also
supports the adjustable fence, which is used for
parallel cuts. There is a nut and bolt that joins
both sides of the table and stops the table from
warping. The nut and bolt must always be tted
in the table and only removed when removing
or tting a blade.
8. Blade guide adjustment hand wheel
The upper blade guides are attached to the
blade guide shaft. The shaft is vertically
adjustable with a hand wheel. The guides
should be adjusted so the guides are just
above the wood being cut. This gives the blade
maximum stability and is also the safest way to
operate the bandsaw.
9. Blade guides
There are two sets of blade guides, one above
and one below the table. The function of the
guides is to give the blade stability and ensure
that the blade movement left/right, forward/
back is kept to a minimum. The guides above
the table are tted to a shaft that has vertical
adjustment. The upper guides are adjustable so
that the guides are held just above the job being
cut. This gives the blade the maximum amount
of stability and also keeps the amount of blade
that is exposed to a minimum. The guides have
ceramic inserts that can be adjusted for almost
zero clearance.
10. Rip fence assembly
The rip fence assembly consists of a guide rail,
cast knuckle, fence attachment casting, rule
and a high-low fence. The guide rail is attached
to the table side. It guides the fence assembly
across the table. The cast knuckle slides on the
guide rail and is lockable in any position to
suit the width of cut. The fence attachment
casting is attached to the cast knuckle with
three screws that when loosened allow the
fence to be adjusted for drift. The fence is
attached to the fence attachment casting with
two studded knobs that allow the fence to be
adjusted laterally across the table to suit the
job being cut. The fence can be tted in the low
position or the vertical (7 1/4“ height) position.
There is a rule that is tted to the side of the
table and can be used as a quick guide on the
distance that th
The Fence Stop can be used for non through
cuts and can be set on any length of the fence
with the quick release handle.”e fence is from
the blade.
Note. The rule will have to be adjusted each
time the fence is adjusted for drift, as this will
change the distance the fence is from the blade.
11. Dust ports 100 mm
The bandsaw produces a lot of sawdust, so
extraction is very important. This is achieved by
connecting a 100mm dust extraction hoses with
a minimum capacity of 1699 m3/h to the two
dust ports located at the back of the machine.
The stronger the suction from the dust collector,
the better for you and the machine.
12. Quick-release blade tension lever
There is a quick-release tension lever at the
back of the bandsaw. The lever is a convenient
way of quickly releasing the tension on
the blade and speeds up blade change
dramatically.
13. Blade-tracking knob
The blade-tracking knob is located at the back
of the bandsaw and is used to adjust the blade
tracking. The knob must be locked once the
adjustment is completed.
14. Optional mobility kit
The optional mobility kit is tted to the base of
the bandsaw and consists of two xed wheels
at the front of the bandsaw and a swivel wheel
at the back of the band saw. The swivel wheel
is activated and deactivated with a foot lever.
With the swivel wheel deactivated, the bandsaw
sits on two rubber feet.
15. Optional light
The optional light is tted with four screws
through pre-drilled holes at the top of the
bandsaw. The bandsaw is provided with a 220V
socket that the light can be connected to.
16. Blade guide shaft lock
The upper blade guide is xed to the blade
guide shaft, which is vertically adjustable. Once
the guides have been adjusted vertically, the
shaft is locked in position with the lock knob.
17. Flywheel
The blade is suspended over two wheels that
are covered with rubber called a „tire“. The tire
cushions the blade and protects the teeth from
coming in contact with the metal of the ywheel.
The lower wheel is the drive wheel and is
attached to the motor with a rubber drive belt.
The lower ywheel powers the blade and pulls
the blade down through the work piece. The
top wheel has two functions. One function is to
balance or track the blade on the wheels, and
the second one is to tension the blade. Both
functions are adjustable.
18. Brake
The bandsaw is provided with a brake that is
operated by applying the foot pedal. When the
foot pedal is applied, the power is removed
from the motor and the ywheel is slowed by
the disc break.
Rubber feet
Swivel wheel assembly
Disc break on ywheel
Emergency
stop button
Start / Stop buttons

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19. Guards
When running, the blade can be very dangerous,
and the amount of blade that is exposed must be
kept to a minimum. The machine is supplied with a
number of guards, all of which MUST be installed
and used while the machine is running. There is
a guard that is attached to the lower door and is
adjustable vertically once the door is closed. There
is a guard on the guide vertical adjustment shaft.
20. Blade tilt and tension mechanism
The upper wheel is attached to the tilt and tension
mechanism. This mechanism adjusts the wheel so
that the bandsaw blade can be adjusted for blade
tracking. This is achieved by a screwed handle
at the back of the machine that pushes on the
mechanism and adjusts the axis of the wheel so
that it runs true with the lower wheel. The second
function is to tension the blade, which is achieved
by adjusting the upper ywheel vertically. A handle
is located below upper ywheel and, when rotated,
will move the wheel up or down. The machine
has a quick-acting blade release mechanism that
is located at the back of the machine and will
remove the tension from the blade to speed the
removal and tting of blades. The mechanism has
a spring, which helps to keep the tension constant
as the blade expands and contracts with the heat
generated by the cutting action.
21. Electrical connection
The bandsaw is provided with a cable.
22. Identication
There is a plate at the back of the
machine listing all the
manufacturing data.
3.2 Specication
Motor voltage 400V, 2,2 kW, 50Hz, 3 Ph
Breaker 3 x 16 A,
tripping characteristic C (16/3/C)
Throat 463 mm
Table cast iron 508 mm x 660 mm
Table tilt - 6° + 45°
Mitre slot 9,5 mm x 19 mm
Table height 965 mm
Fly wheel Cast iron
Resaw capacity 406 mm
Minimum blade length 3651 mm
Maximum blade length 31,75 mm
Minimum blade width 3 mm
Guides Ceramic
Height 1 975 mm
Machine dimensions (W x D) 919 x 759 mm
Base footprint 688 x 500 mm
Machine dimensions with mobility kit (W x D)
1093 x 797 mm
Base footprint with mobility kit
949 x 618 mm
Weight gross 200 kg
Weight net 186 kg
Package size W x D x H
2070 x 860 x 615 mm
Mobility kit Optional
Industrial work-light Optional
Fence Face Dimensions 18,5 x 57,5 cm
3.3 Noise emission
Equivalent A-weighted Sound pressure level
according to EN ISO 3746: 73.56 dB(A)
Uncertainty, K in decibels: 4.0 dB (A) according to
EN ISO 4871 The gure quoted is emission levels
and are not necessarily safe working levels. Whilst
there is a correlation between the emission and
exposure levels, this cannot be used reliably to
determine whether or not further precautions are
required. Factors that inuence the actual level of
exposure of the workforce include characteristics
of the work room, the other sources of noise, etc.
Like the number of machines and other adjacent
processes.
4. General safety
Warning: Read all safety considerations. Failure
to follow this set of guidelines can result in
unwarranted damage to the machine and serious
injury to the operator and bystanders. Save all
warnings and instructions for future reference.
4.1 Safety instructions
• Keep guards in place and in working order.
• Remove adjusting keys and wrenches. Form
habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting
wrenches are removed from tool before turning it
on.
• Keep work area clean. Cluttered areas and
benches invite accidents.
• Don’t use in dangerous environment. Don’t use
power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose
them to rain. Keep work area well lighted.
• Keep children away. Ali visitors should be kept
safe distance from work area.
• Make workshop kid proof with padlocks, master
switches or by removing starter keys.
• Don’t force tool. It will do the job better and safer
at the rate for which it was designed.
• Use right tool. Don ‘t farce tool or attachment to
do a job for which it was not designed.
• Use proper extension cord. Make sure your
extension cord is in good condition. When using an
extension cord, be sure to use one heavy enough
to carry the current your product will draw. An
undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage,
resulting in loss of power and overheating. Table a
shows the correct size to use depending on cord
length and nameplate ampere rating. If in doubt,
use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage
number, the heavier the cord.
• Wear proper apparel. Do not wear loose clothing,
gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets or other jewelry
that may get caught in moving parts. Nonslip
footwear is recommended. Wear protective hair
covering to contain long hair.
• Always use safety glasses. Also use face or
dust mask if cutting operation is dusty. Everyday
eyeglasses only have impact-resistant lenses; they
are not safety glasses.
• Secure work. Use clamps or a vise to hold work
when practical. Lt’s safer than using your hand,
and it frees both hands to operate tool.
• Don’t overreach. Keep proper footing and
balance at all times.
• Maintain tools with care. Keep tools sharp
and clean for best and safest performance.
Follow instructions for lubricating and changing
accessories.
• Disconnect tools before servicing, when changing
accessories such as blades, bits and cutters.
• Reduce the risk of unintentional starting.
Make sure switch is in o󰀨 position before plugging
in.
• Use recommended accessories. Consult the
owner’s manual for recommended accessories.
The use of improper accessories may cause risk of
injury to persons.
• Never stand on tool serious injury could
occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is
unintentionally contacted.
• Check damaged parts. Before further use of
the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that it will
operate properly and perform its intended function
- check for alignment of moving parts, binding of
moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting and
any other conditions that may a󰀨ect its operation.
A guard or other part that is damaged should be
properly repaired or replaced.
• Direction of feed. Feed work into a blade or cutter
against the direction of rotation of the blade or
cutter only.
• Never leave tool running unattended turn power
o󰀨. Don’t leave tool until it comes to a complete
stop.
Location of warning signs
Because the direction of the blade is always
downward toward the table, there is little danger
(except for special cuts) that the wood will be
thrown back at the operator, which is called a
kickback. There is always danger of kickback when
a circular saw is being used. For safety reasons
many woodworkers prefer the bandsaw especially
when cutting small pieces. The unique feature of
the bandsaw is that the work piece can be rotated
around the blade creating a curve. It is the tool
most often used when curves have to be cut in
wood. Because the bandsaw blade is fairly thin, it
can cut thick stock with a minimum of horsepower.
For this reason the bandsaw is often used when
valuable pieces of wood are made into a thin piece
of veneer.
5. Unpacking your machine
5.1 Transport and unpacking
It is probable that your machine will be delivered
by a third party. Before you unpack your new
machine, you will need to rst inspect the packing,
invoice and shipping documents supplied by the
driver.
Ensure that there is no visible damage to the
packing or the machine. You need to do this prior
to the driver leaving. All damage must be noted on
the delivery documents and signed by you and the
delivery driver. You must then contact the seller
within 24 hours.
5.2 Unpacking
To unpack your machine, you will need tin snips,
knife and a wrench.
Note: The machine is heavy, and if you have
any doubt about the described procedure, seek
professional assistance. Do not attempt any
procedure that you feel is unsafe or that you do not
have the physical capability of achieving.
Using the tin snips, cut the banding that is securing
the machine to the pallet (if tted).
WARNING: EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE
USED BECAUSE THE BANDING WILL SPRING
AND COULD CAUSE INJURY.
Your bandsaw will be shipped in custom packaging
consisting of a heavy-duty cardboard box and
Styrofoam internal packaging.
1. Open the cardboard box and remove the loose
parts and top Styrofoam.
2. Lift the bandsaw out of the packaging. You
will need two or more people, as the bandsaw is
heavy.
3. Lift the bottom Styrofoam out and remove the
parts that are packaged under the
bandsaw and packaging.

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5.3 What you will receive with the bandsaw
• Ruler and table assembly aids
(Pictures 8a, 8b).
Location of warning signs
2 3 4
5
1
8
6
12
9
10
11
7
13
4
13
8
1
3
12
2
5
9
6
7
10
Pic. 8a, 8b
1. Fence
2. Fence Bar
3. Fence Stop
4. Fence Stop Rule
5. Fence mount
6. Fence Mount Hardware
7. Table Tilt Locks
8. Ceramic guides and locks
9. Bladeinsert lock
10. Caster kit
11. 5mm hex key
12. Throat plate
13. Fence rule

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5.4 Locating your bandsaw
Before you remove your bandsaw from the pallet,
select the area where you will use your machine.
There are no hard-and-fast rules for its location,
but below are a few guidelines.
1. There should be an area at the front and back
of the machine suitable for the length of wood
that you will be cutting. If you intend to use your
saw for scrollwork, this may not be important but
should be considered at this stage.
2. Adequate lighting. The better the lighting, the
more accurate and safely you will be able to work
3. Solid oor. You should select a solid, at oor,
preferably concrete or something similar.
4. Close to power source and dust collection.
5.5 Locking the bandsaw
It is strongly recommended that the bandsaw is
never be left unattended in the unlocked
condition.
To lock the machine it is recommended that a
cover (not supplied) is made to lock the control
panel. We have supplied two concepts for locking
the panel (see below). The cover can be
made from wood or plastic.
First, push down the emergency stop. Then lock
the cover together by putting padlocks [not
included] on the two handles on the control panel.
To safeguard your machine from
unauthorized operation and accidental starting by
young children, the use of padlocks is
strongly recommended
It is possible to t the table to the bandsaw with
one person but far easier if you have two
people, one to lift the table and one to guide the
trunion clamp studs.
The table has a reference stop bolt that is used
to quickly align the table after tilting. The stop
bolt hits the tilt-blanking disc when it is
positioned over the table tilt hole. When the tilt
blanking disc is moved away from the hole, it
allows the tilt stop bolt to pass through the table
tilt hole, and the table can be moved to the
maximum amount of tilt (-7 degrees).
Table mounted to the bandsaw
6. Assembly and set up
6.1 Assembling the rubber feet
Method 1.
Fit the rubber feet to the bandsaw prior to
removing it from the packaging.
Method 2.
1. Support the bandsaw on wooden blocks.
2. Assemble the rubber feet with the xings
provide both at front and back of the bandsaw.
6.2 Assembling the optional mobility kit
1. Support the bandsaw on wooden blocks.
2. Fit the swivel assembly to the back of the
bandsaw with the provided bolts.
3. Fit the front wheels to the front of the
bandsaw with the bolts provided and remove
the two rubber feet that are close to the front
wheels.
Note. Never operate the bandsaw with the
mobility kit engaged or the front wheel
assembly locking screw not engaged.
6.3 Fitting the table
Wooden safety cover Padlock
Emergency stop switch
Plastic safety cover Padlock
Rubber feet
Rear swivel wheel
Front wheels Locking screw
Trunion clamp stud
Tilt stop bolt
Tilt stop bolt
Tilt blanking disc
Tilt blanking disc
Table tilt hole
Trunion clamp stud
Bandsaw supported on wooden block

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With the table tted to the trunions, assemble
the two ratchet handles and at washers.
How to adjust the table for square to the blade.
This will be detailed later in the manual.
6.4 Fitting the table rule
Table rule with xings
Table with rule mounted
Attach the rule to the table with the xings supplied.
Do not fully tighten the bolts, as the position of the
rule will have to be adjusted to suit the blade, which
will be detailed later in the manual.
6.5 Fitting the fence
1. Fit the fence bar to the table with the screws
and spacers supplied.
Note. The distance between the xing holes and
the end of the bar is not symmetrical, and the end
that has the longest distance must be at the back of
the bandsaw (closest to the column).
2. Slide the fence support onto the fence bar and
t the fence support clamp screw.
3. Slide the fence onto the clamping strip.
4. Lift the fence just clear of the table and secure
it in position with the clamping screws.
Fence clamped in low position
Fence in high position
The fence support and the fence are held o󰀨
the table with a nylon-support Allen screw. This
screw ensures that the fence and the fence
support do not damage the table. The screw is
adjustable to compensate for wear.
Note. The fence clamp screw is shown
removed.
6.6 Fitting the table insert and Fence Stopper
The machine is supplied with a removable table
insert that is held in position with a screw. The
table insert is removed when blades are removed
or tted to the machine. The insert is made of
soft aluminium so that if the blade wanders
and contacts the insert, there is less chance
of damaging the blade. Adjusting screws are
provided to adjust the insert vertically level with
the table. The insert comes factory set, but should
adjustment become necessary, place the insert
in the table with the screw tted. Place a straight
edge across the table and insert and adjust the
screws so that the table insert is level with the top
of the table.
Fitting the Fence Stop
The fence stopper can be used to control the
length of cut for non through cuts. To set the stop
in place, the scale should be attached into the
T-slot on top of the fence when it is on the vertical
position. The “0” on the scale should be adjusted
and set to be align up to the front tip of the blade.
Then refer to the scale, slide the fence stopper to
the desired cutting length behind the front tip of
the blade as shown in the scale, then x the fence
stopper in place by tightening down the quick
release handle.
Rule adjustment slot
Fence support lock knob
Fence support
Fence support
Fence in low position
Lock knob
Table insert
Ratchet handle
Spacer
Fence bar
Allen key
Support Allen screw

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6.7 Fitting the optional light
Fixing screws and cable clips
The light is tted to the top of the bandsaw as
shown. The light is supplied with a plug. The
cable must be held in position with the clips
provided and positioned so that the cable is
safe and will not in any way come close to the
blade or cabinet door.
Above is the suggested cable route. Use the
sticky cable clamps to secure the cable along
the top of the bandsaw. Ensure that the cable
is not over the vertical shaft hole, as it could be
damaged when the shaft exits the hole.
6.8 Connecting the bandsaw to the
electricity supply
The bandsaw is supplied pre-wired with a 400V /
16 Amp plug. To protect the electrical circuit, it is
recommended that the bandsaw be connected to
a three-pole 16-amp breaker with class C tripping
characteristic (16/3/C). Pressing the Start/Stop
button turns the motor on and o󰀨.
7. Testing the bandsaw
1. Close the doors.
2. Check that the red safety switch is in the fully
out position.
3. Check that the machine is clear of all tools and
other loose objects.
4. Check that all the adjusting and locking
handles are tight.
5. Check that there is no blade tted; it is far safer
to test the machine without a blade tted.
6. Connect the bandsaw to the electricity supply.
7. Start the bandsaw by pressing the green start button.
8. The lower ywheel is now turning.
9. Now is the time to check that the stop switch is
functioning correctly.
10. With the machine running (no blade tted),
operate the red stop switch by pressing toward
the machine. The motor should have the power
turned o󰀨 and slow down.
11. If the switches fail to operate correctly, do not use
the machine until the fault has been corrected.
12. With the motor running, press the red
emergency stop button. The motor should have
the power turned o󰀨 and slow down.
13. With the motor running, press the foot break pedal.
The motor should have the power removed and come
to a stop.
Should the bandsaw fail the test, it must not be
used until the fault has been corrected.
Disconnect the power from the bandsaw
1. Remove the throat plate by removing the
clamp screw.
2. Remove the table split clamp ratchet handle.
3. Remove the plastic blanking plate.
4. Adjust the side guide and back guide out
as far as they will go (both upper and lower
guides). This will ensure that they do not
interfere with the blade while you are tting,
tracking and tensioning the blade.
5. Uncoil the blade. Remember to use gloves
and safety glasses. The blade may have dirt or
oil on it, so use a clean rag to clean the blade
by pulling rearwards so that the cloth does not
hook on the teeth
6. Inspect the teeth and the general condition of
the blade. If the teeth are pointing in the wrong
direction when you hold the blade up to the
machine, you will have to turn it inside out.
To do this, hold the blade with both hands and
rotate.
7. Slide the blade through the table split.
8. Open the blade guard door. Slide the blade
over the top ywheel and feed through the slot
at the side of the vertical column. Then feed the
blade into the blade guard slot and close the
blade guard door.
9. Deactivate the quick action blade tension
lever and rotate the blade tension wheel so that
the blade can t over the lower ywheel.
10. Activate the quick action blade tension lever.
11. Apply light tension to the blade with the
blade tension wheel.
7.1 Before starting the bandsaw
Read and understand the instruction manual
before operating the saw.
1. If you are still not thoroughly familiar with the
operation of the bandsaw, get advice from a
qualied person.
2. Make sure the machine is properly grounded
and that the wiring codes are followed.
3. Do not operate the bandsaw while under the
inuence of drugs, alcohol or medicine or if tired.
4. Always wear eye protection, safety glasses
or a safety shield, and hearing protection.
5. Wear a dust mask; long-term exposure to the
ne dust created by the bandsaw is not healthy.
6. Remove your tie, rings, watch and all jewelry.
Roll up your sleeves; you do not want
anything to get caught in the saw.
7. Make sure that the guards are in place and
use them at all times. The guards protect you
from coming in contact with the blade.
8. Make sure that the saw blade teeth point
downward toward the table.
9. Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is just
clearing the material being cut.
10. Make sure that the blade has been properly
tensioned and tracked.
11. Stop the machine before removing the scrap
piece from the table.
12. Always keep your hands and ngers away
from the blade.
13. Make sure that you use the proper size and
type of blade.
14. Hold the work piece rmly against the table.
Do not attempt to saw stock that does not
have a at surface facing down, unless a
suitable support is used.
15. Use a push stick at the end of a cut. This is
the most dangerous time because the cut is
complete and the blade is exposed. Push sticks
are commercially available.
16. Hold the wood rmly and feed it into the
blade at a moderate speed.
17. Turn o󰀨 the machine if you have to back the
material out of an uncompleted or jammed cut.
7.2 Fitting a blade to the bandsaw
A lot of people do not like to change the blades
and go to great lengths to avoid doing it. To
use the bandsaw to its greatest advantage, you
will have to use the appropriate blade and
track it quickly. This is a habit that can be easily
developed. If you use a step-by-step method
of tracking and tensioning, the procedure
should only take a minute or two. Be careful
when using blades, especially wide ones.
Always use gloves and safety glasses.
Throat plate
Clamp screw
Table split clamp screw
Table split clamp slot
Emergency stop button
Start / Stop buttons
Blade in table split

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7.3 Tracking the blade
Tracking position of the blade on the wheels
There are di󰀨erent opinions on the position that
the blade should be on the wheels. One group
of people recommends that with large blades
you should track the blade so that the teeth
hang just over the front edge of the rubber.
The second group recommends that all blades,
regardless of their size, should run in the center
of the wheel. The advantage of running the
large blades with the teeth not contacting the
rubber of the wheel is that they cannot damage
the tire. The disadvantage is that the wheel is
crowned and the blade is not tensioned in the
center of the band, which gives the blade a
tendency to wobble or utter. The advantage
of running large blades on the center of the
wheels is that they are tensioned in the center
of the band and have fewer tendencies to
wobble and utter. The disadvantage is that
blades with a large set on the teeth have a
tendency to damage the rubber of the tire.
This does not have a great e󰀨ect on the
performance of the bandsaw, as all blades
are running on the center section of the tire,
which is not a󰀨ected. We recommend that you
balance all blades on the center of the wheels
for optimum performance and a smoother cut.
1. To track the blade, start rotating the wheels
by hand in the normal direction. As you do this,
watch the blade to determine where the blade
wants to track. If the blade is tracking too far
forward or backward, make small adjustments
with the tracking adjustment knob located at
the back of the bandsaw while still rotating the
wheel. Once the blade is tracking in the correct
position, fully tension the blade and re-track.
Lock the tracking adjustment handle.
Note. Tensioning the blade is covered later in
the manual.
2. Ret the plastic blanking block.
Note: The blade must be fully tensioned for
nal tracking.
Note: Never track the blade with the saw
running.
Note. There is a window on the side of the
bandsaw that
allows the blade on the upper ywheel to be
viewed. This will
assist you while you are tracking the blade.
7.4 Tensioning the blade
There are a lot of opinions on how to tension
a blade and if you should buy a blade tension
gauge. Before you purchase a blade tension
gauge, note the following points:
Most blade tension gauges are tted to the
blade and measure the amount the blade
stretches when you tension it. Each blade
manufacturer uses a di󰀨erent type of steel with
di󰀨erent tensile strength. This means that each
type of steel has a di󰀨erent rate of stretch. For
example, if you buy a tension gauge from one
blade manufacturer, it is designed for use on
their blades, or range of blades, and will not
necessarily give you accurate readings in lbs/
square inch on another manufacturer’s blades
because their blades stretch at a di󰀨erent rate.
In reality, there is nothing quite as quick or as
accurate as experience. Your machine is tted
with a blade tension indicator, which measures
the deection of the tension spring on the upper
ywheel. We recommend that you use it only
as a general guide and use one of the following
tensioning procedures to tension the blade.
Method 1
Looking at the top wheel, place your nger at
the 9 o‘clock position. Move your nger down
15cm, and, using moderate pressure with
your thumb, press on the at of the blade.
You should get 4 to 6 of deection. Ret all
the guards and close the doors. Replace the
table insert and check that the blade moves
freely through the table insert. Check that all
wrenches and loose parts are removed from the
machine.
Plug the machine into the power. Turn the
machine on for a second and switch o󰀨. Watch
how the blade runs. If the blade tracks well,
then run the machine at full power. If the
Method 2
Tension the blade as described in method 1.
Close all the doors and ensure that all the
guards are tted.
Start the band saw and look at the blade from
the front of the machine. Start to detension the
blade very slowly until the blade starts to utter
(wobble from side to side). Then start to tension
the blade until the blade stops uttering and is
running true. Increase the tension on the blade
by one complete turn on the tension handle.
You may nd that each size and type of blade
will need more or less additional tension.
For example, a 1,5mm blade will need less
additional tension than a 19mm blade. Again,
experience is the key, and with a little practice
it will become second nature. The key to all
tensioning is to get the blade to cut straight
and true with the minimum amount of tension.
The less tension that you put on the blade, the
longer the blade and the machine will last.
Note. The upper ywheel has a spring that is
used to keep a constant pressure on the blade
during use. As the blade cuts, heat is
generated, which causes the blade length
to expand. The spring compensates for the
change in length, and you must never bottom
out the spring while tensioning the blade.
Note. If you are not using the bandsaw for
extended periods of time (overnight), remove
the tension on the blade. This will increase
the life of your blade and the machine. If
tension is left on the machine, ats or grooves
can be formed in the rubber of the wheels,
which will detract from the performance of the
machine and in extreme cases cause vibration.
Removing the
tension will greatly enhance the life of the
machine, bearings and tires. Label the machine
“detensioned.” On the label, mark the number
of turns that you detensioned; this way you will
know how many turns that you have to put back
on to have your blade correctly tensioned.
Removing the blade from the bandsaw
1. Disconnect the power to the bandsaw.
2. Remove the table split clamp that aligns the
two table halves.
3. Remove all the guards.
4. Remove the table insert.
5. Remove the tension on the upper ywheel.
6. Open the doors and remove the blade from
the wheels (use gloves and eye protection) and
gently slide the blade through the table slot.
Blade in column slot
Blade guard door
Plastic blanking block
Lock knob
Tracking knob
Blade tracking
window
Blade tension indicator
Quick action blade
tension lever (activated)
Blade tension
wheel

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7.5 Adjusting the blade guards
Welcome to a new era in bandsawing. You
have purchased a bandsaw with a revolutionary
blade guide system that is designed to give you
years of safe, high-quality bandsawing. Most
blade guides are designed to support the blade
on the sides and either above or below the
side guides at the back of the blade. This can
allow the blade to twist as pressure from the
wood being cut pushes against the back blade
guide. The Laguna Guide eliminates this by
supporting the blade above and below the back
blade guide, giving the blade unsurpassed
stability. The Laguna Guide also incorporates
patented ceramic as the blade support material.
The advantage of this material is its ability to
resist wear, and with care it should give years
of safe service.
Please read the following notes as they
will assist you in getting the optimum
performance from your Laguna guide
system.
As with the roller guide systems, the Laguna
guide system will damage your blade if it is not
adjusted correctly. The guide blocks must not
come in contact with the teeth of the blade. It is
advisable to run the blade by hand with the
guide blocks completely clear of the blade, and
only when you are completely sure that the
blade is running consistently in the correct
position, you may then adjust the surround
guide blocks as detailed in this manual.
Note on using the Laguna ceramic guide
system.
1. When tting a blade to your bandsaw, adjust
the guide blocks as detailed later and run the
blade by hand through the guide blocks for at
least two complete revolutions.
2. The weld on a new blade may not be
perfectly aligned, and the misalignment could
hit the ceramic blocks (side and back), causing
damage to the blocks or the blade. If the blade
has a bad weld, return it to your blade supplier
or side dress and le the back of the blade as
needed.
3. The back blade guide is manufactured from
ceramic, so as the blade pushes against it,
friction between the blade and the ceramic
occurs. This action generates a certain amount
of sparks. This is normal and will become
less with time as the back of the blade guide
smoothes out the back of the blade.
4. The back blade guide will slowly form a small
grove as the blade is used (this is normal). It
is recommended that for approximately every 8
hours of use, the guide be rotated 15 degrees.
This will ensure that the groove does not
become too deep and will greatly extend
the life of your guide.
5. The Laguna guide system can be used with
1/8” to 1-1/4”blades.
6. The Laguna guide system uses ceramic to
support and guide the blade. This has many
advantages (very poor conductor of heat, very
resistant to wear, etc.). The disadvantage is
that it is very brittle, so the guides must never
be dropped, exposed to hard knocks, hit with
hard objects or used with badly welded blades.
Any of the above actions may cause the
ceramic to chip or break and will detract from
the performance of the Laguna guide system.
Any mistreatment of the guide system will
render the warranty void.
7. The side guide blocks must be tightened
before running the machine to avoid jamming
the blade and damaging the machine and/or
guide blocks.
8. When cutting gummy or green wood, the
blade can become covered with resin. You will
nd that the surround guide system ceramic
blocks remove the resin as the blade is moved
through the guide blocks and keep that
part of the blade clean. For this reason it is
recommended that the blocks be adjusted as
close to the gullet as possible, but the teeth
must not come in contact with the blocks, as
they will become damaged. Although the guide
blocks clean the blade, some woods will still
gum the blade and the resin will have to be
removed with solvent.
7.6 Adjusting the blade guides
The blade should run through the center of
the rear blade guide, and the side guides
should be parallel with the blade. If they have
been moved out of adjustment, adjust as
follows:
Top Upper Side Guides Parallel
Adjustment.
Loosen the side guides and move out as far as
possible. Loosen the guide assembly and move
back away from the blade. Move the back blade
guide forward so it just touches the back of the
blade and lock in position.
Loosen the guide clamp screw that allows the
side guides to move forward and back. Adjust
so that the ceramic blocks are just behind the
gullet of the teeth and are parallel to the blade.
Retighten the clamp screws. Gently push one
side guide so that it touches the blade and
lock it in position. Bring the other guide toward
the blade so that there is minimal clearance
between the blade and the guide. You can put
a thin piece of paper to put between the blade
and the guide to obtain the correct clearance
until you gain experience. Tighten the clamp
screws and remove the paper. Rotate the blade
by hand, ensuring that the weld of the blade
does not hit the ceramic blocks, as this will
cause damage. If the blade has a bad weld,
dress the blade or return it to your supplier.
Rotate the blade by hand and check that the
back of the blade does not hit the blade guide
with a bad weld. If the back of the blade hits the
back blade guide at the weld, then dress the
blade or, in excessive cases, return the blade to
the supplier.
Lower blade guide.
The lower blade guides have two locking
screws that, when released, allow the guide
assembly to be moved forward and back.
Rotate the blade by hand and ensure that it
is tracking consistently in the correct position.
Loosen the side guides and move out from the
blade. Loosen the two clamp screws that allow
the guide assembly to move forward and back.
Adjust it so that the ceramic blocks are just
behind the gullet of the blade and retighten the
clamp screws.
Place a dollar bill or piece of paper of similar
thickness between the guide blocks and the
blade. Gently bring both side guides toward the
blade so that slight pressure is exerted on the
blade. Tighten the clamp screws and remove
the paper. Rotate the blade by hand, ensuring
that the weld of the blade does not hit the
ceramic blocks, as this will cause damage. If
the blade has a bad weld, dress the blade or
return it to your supplier.
Loosen the rear guide clamp screw and push
the guide forward so that it just touches the
back of the blade.
Tighten the guide in position.
Rotate the blade by hand and check to see that
the back of the blade does not hit the blade
guide with a bad weld. If the back of the blade
hits the rear blade guide at the weld, then dress
the blade or, in excessive cases, return the
blade to the supplier.
Note: You will probably nd that the guides can
be adjusted more easily by tilting the table to 45
degrees.
Note: Rotate the back guide by approximately
15 degrees after every 8 hours of use. This will
greatly extend the life of the back blade guide,
as it will even out the wear.
Before you cut any wood, read the safety
rules at the front of this manual.
Side guide clamp screw
Back guide clamp screw
Back guide touching the
back of the blade
Adjusted guide
Guide locking screws

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Lower blade guide shown with the table
removed for clarity
Side guides adjusted with ceramic just
behind the gullet
8. Using the bandsaw
8.1 Adjusting the fence
Although the bandsaw is usually associated
with cutting curves, a variety of straight cuts
are easily made with the saw. In fact, it is often
used to rip wood because it is much safer than
a radial arm saw and also has a smaller saw
cut, so it wastes less wood. This becomes very
important when using expensive wood where
waste must be kept to a minimum. The cut is
safer because the force of the cut is straight
down on the table; the work cannot be pulled
back or kicked back, which sometimes happens
with table or radial arm saws. The bandsaw
can also cut very thick stock, which the radial
arm, or table saw cannot do. The disadvantage
of cutting with the bandsaw is that the surface
nish of the cut is not as good as with the
table or radial arm saw. This can be overcome
to a great degree by using the Resaw king
blade from Laguna. The blade has many of
advantages such as superior surface nish to
the cut, thin kerf (low wood waste), it can be
re-sharpened, will cut hard woods and has a
long life.
Ripping
Ripping is a cut made with the grain of the
wood. The four most common cuts made with
the grain of the wood are rip, bevel, taper
and resaw cuts. There are two frequently
used techniques for making straight bandsaw
cuts. One technique is to use a single point
to guide the work. The rationale for using a
single point is that the saw may tend to cut at
a slight angle. This is called drift or lead. The
single point allows the operator to compensate
for the drift and cut the wood straight. With
a little practice, you will obtain satisfactory
results using this method. However, you now
own a real bandsaw, so this method is not
recommended. Another method is to use the rip
fence as a guide. Once set up, this takes the
guesswork out of cutting, reduces the stress
on the operator and is a must for volume work.
Once you have mastered the setup procedure,
you will tend to use the single point method less
and less.
Adjusting the fence for drift
Method 1
1. Make a straight pencil line on the edge of a
board.
2. Feed the wood into the blade cutting next
to the pencil mark. If the blade is drifting, you
will have to compensate by angling the wood
to keep the cut straight.
3. Stop the cut in the middle of the wood and
mark (with pencil) the angle on the table. This
is the angle of drift, and you will have to set the
fence to the pencil line.
4. To adjust the fence, loosen the clamp bolts
that attach it to the cast bracket. Move the
fence so that it lines up with the pencil mark on
the table and retighten the clamp screws.
Method 2
1. Set the fence parallel with the blade by
loosening the clamp screws that hold it to the
cast bracket. It is not important that it is exact
because you will be readjusting later in the
procedure.
2. Using a piece of scrap wood, make a cut
while holding the wood against the fence. Stop
the cut in the middle of the wood.
3. Look at the position of the back of the blade
within the saw cut. The back of the blade
should be in the center of the slot, but you will
probably nd that it is closer to one side.
4. Slightly loosen the clamp screws and adjust
the fence to compensate. Repeat steps 2, 3
and 4 until the blade is centered.
Note: You may have to do several ne
adjustments, and it is better to do several small
adjustments until you become skilled at the
procedure. Once you have mastered the
process, it should only take a minute to perform
the adjustment.
Note: Each blade has a slightly di󰀨erent drift,
and each time you change a blade, you must
check and readjust if necessary.
Note: It is worth taking the time to set the fence
accurately as it will save frustration and
enhance the performance of your machine.
Adjusting the table rule
There is a rule that is tted to the side of the
table and can be used as a quick guide on the
distance that the fence is from the blade.
Note. The rule will have to be adjusted each
time the fence is adjusted for drift, as this will
change the distance the fence is from the blade.
Once the fence has been adjusted for drift:
1. Lock the fence to the rail.
2. Measure the distance from the front of the
blade to the fence.
3. Check the distance indicated on the rule.
4. Loosen the clamp bolts and adjust the rule.
5. Tighten the clamp bolts and recheck.
Fence position
Fence in low position
Fence in high position
The aluminum fence can be used in two height
positions (high and low). The low position is
handy for cutting thin wood and is used where
the fence in the high position would make it
awkward to complete cuts. The fence in the
high position is used for supporting tall work.
Changing the fence height.
1. Loosen the clamp screws that are located on
the cast bracket.
2. Slide the aluminum fence o󰀨 the cast iron
bracket.
3. Slide the aluminum fence back onto the
bracket using the second slot and retighten the
clamp screws.
Table rule
Adjustment slot
Correct
Adjust

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Resawing.
Resawing is the process of cutting a board in
half along its height. The bandsaw is perhaps
the most creative tool in the shop because of
its ability to cut thick or thin, straight or curved.
The ability to cut thick stock such as re-sawing,
making veneers, book matching or cutting
itches from small logs has great appeal to
the woodworker. These capabilities greatly
enhance he woodworker’s design ability
without the need for additional equipment.
When a board is resawed and the two pieces
are lying next to each other, you will note that
they are mirror images of each other. When
these two boards are glued together, it is called
bookmatching.
Note: It is unsafe to cut wood that is
unsupported by the table and should never
be attempted. This is especially important to
note when cutting round logs.
8.2 Selecting the Right Blade
Introduction
The selection and use of blades is a very
extensive subject, and there have been many
books written on it. This section of the manual
is intended as a general guide only.
Selecting a blade
Using the correct blade is important, as it is the
rst step in attaining good bandsaw
performance. The most frequently asked
question is „How do I decide on the correct
blade to use?“ The answer is not simple, and
we will explore it in this section of the manual.
Firstly, there is NO ideal blade that will do
everything. The blades that you choose will be
determined by the type of work that you are
doing. Large-tooth wide blades are selected for
fast course cuts, and ne, thin blades are used
for intricate scrollwork. You will nd that you
will need a large selection of blades if you do
a lot of varied work and fewer blades if you are
concentrating on one section of bandsawing
such as re-sawing. Using the wrong blade
is the best way to abuse it. Using a blade
for its intended purpose allows for maximum
e󰀩ciency and is the best way to prolong its life.
Blade terms
The amount that the teeth are wider than the
thickness of the backing material. The larger
the set, the larger the saw cut and the smaller
the radius that can be cut. This can also be
an advantage if you are cutting a job that has
a tendency to nip the blade. The smaller the
set, the smaller the saw cut and the larger the
radius that can be cut; the wood waste is less.
On tipped blades (Resaw King) there is no set,
as the tip is wider than the backing material.
Thickness
The thicker the blade, the sti󰀨er the blade and
the straighter the cut. The thicker the band, the
greater the tendency for the blade to break.
Pitch
The size of the teeth. This is usually quoted in
teeth per inch (TPI). The larger the tooth, the
faster the cut because the tooth has a large
gullet and has a greater capacity to transport
large amounts of sawdust through the job. The
larger the tooth, the coarser the cut and the
poorer the surface nish of the cut. The smaller
the tooth, the slower the cut as the tooth has
a small gullet and cannot transport large
amounts of sawdust through the job. The
smaller the tooth, the ner the cut and the
better the surface nish of the cut
Material Hardness.
When choosing the blade with the proper pitch,
one factor you should consider is the hardness
of the material that is being cut: the harder the
material, the ner the pitch that is required. For
example, exotic hardwoods such as ebony and
rosewood require blades with a ner pitch than
American hardwoods such as oak or maple.
Soft wood such as pine will quickly clog the
blade, decreasing its ability to cut. Having a
variety of tooth congurations in the same width
will most likely give you an acceptable choice
for a particular job. There are certain things that
indicate if a blade has a proper pitch, too ne a
pitch or too coarse a pitch.
Some are listed below:
Proper Pitch
Blades cut quickly.
A minimum amount of heat is created when the
blade cuts.
Minimum feeding pressure is required.
Minimum horsepower is required.
The blade makes quality cuts for a long period.
Pitch Is Too Fine
The blade cuts slowly.
There is excessive heat, which causes
premature breakage or rapid dulling.
Unnecessarily high feeding pressure is
required.
Unnecessarily high horsepower is required.
The blade wears excessively.
Pitch Is Too Coarse
The blade has a short cutting life.
The teeth wear excessively.
The bandsaw vibrates.
Width
The dimension from the back of the blade to the
front of the teeth. The wider the blade, the
sti󰀨er the blade and the straighter the cut. This
is usually called beam strength. But wide
blades cannot cut small radiuses.
The narrower the blade, the more exible the
blade and the greater the tendency the blade
has to wander. These have low-beam strength,
but can cut small radiuses. Blades are
available from 3mm up for your machine.
Kerf
The width of the saw cut. The larger the kerf,
the smaller the radius that can be cut, the
greater the amount of wood the blade has to be
removed by the blade and the greater the
horse power that is needed because the blade
is doing more work. The greater the kerf, the
larger the amount of wood that is being wasted
by the cut.
Hook or Rake
The cutting angle or shape of the tooth. The
greater the angle, the more aggressive the
tooth and the faster the cut. But the faster
the cut, the faster the tooth will blunt, and
the poorer will be the surface nish the cut
will have. Aggressive blades are suitable
for soft woods but will not last when cutting
hard woods. The smaller the angle, the less
aggressive the tooth, the slower the cut and
the harder must be the wood that the blade is
suitable to cut. Hook teeth have a progressive
cutting angle and take the form of a progressive
radius. They are used for fast cutting where
nish is not important. Rake teeth have a at
cutting angle and are used for a ne surface
nish of the cut.
Gullet
The area in which the sawdust has to be
transported through the wood, the larger the
tooth (pitch) the bigger the gullet is.
Relief
The angle from the tip of the tooth back. The
greater the angle, the more aggressive
the tooth but the weaker the tooth.
Beam Strength
This is the ability of the blade to resist bending
backwards. The wider the blade, the stronger
the beam strength; therefore, a 25mm blade
has far greater beam strength than a 3mm
blade and will cut straighter and is more
suitable for resawing.
Blade Selection
As you have seen from the previous section,
there are a great number of variables. The
blade selection that you will make will greatly
depend on the type of work that you intend to
do with your machine. If you have experience
with the bandsaw, you will probably have a
good idea of the blades that are suitable for
you. If you lack the experience or are unsure
of the type of work you will be doing with your
machine, we recommend that you purchase a
selection similar to that listed below, which is
a good general selection and will allow you to
tackle most jobs. As you gain experience, you
will settle on the blades that suit you.
1. 6 mm x 6 TPI. This is a small, aggressive
blade that is suitable for tight curves and fast
cutting where a good surface nish of the cut is
not important.
2. 6 mm x 14 TPI. This is a small, ne blade
suitable for reasonably tight cuts where the
surface nish is important but speed of cut is
less important.
3. 13 mm x 3 TPI. This is a general-purpose
blade that can cut large radiuses and short
sections of straight cuts. The cut is fast but the
surface nish of the cut is poor.
4. 19 mm x 3 TPI. This is a general-purpose
blade, which will be used for straight cuts and is
suitable for large radiuses.
5. 25 mm x 2 TPI. This is a resaw blade, which
will be used for straight cuts and is suitable for
processing veneers.
Rounding the back of the blade
With most guide systems it is recommended
that the back of the blade be rounded with a
stone. As the machine is supplied with Laguna
ceramic guides, this is not imperative because
the ceramic will round the back of the blade as
it is used. However, if you decide that you want
to round the back of the blade, a procedure
follows.
A round blade back creates smooth interaction
between the thrust bearing and the blade. If the
blade rotates slightly, there is no sharp blade
corner to dig into the thrust bearing; also, the
rounding process smoothes the weld. A blade
with a round back makes tight turns better
because the round back has smooth interaction
with saw kerfs.
After the guides have been adjusted and the
machine is running, hold the stone against the
back corner of the blade for about a minute.
Wear safety glasses when rounding the blade.
Then, do the same thing on the opposite
corner. Next, slowly move the stone to round
the back. The more pressure you put on the
back, the faster you will remove the metal. Be
careful that the inside of the machine is free of
sawdust because sparks could start a re. On
small blades such as a 1/4“ blade, the pressure
on the back of the blade may bring the blade

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forward o󰀨 the front of the wheels. Therefore,
be careful not to put too much pressure on the
stone. When doing this, it is also important that
the upper guides be positioned right above
the stone.
The blade has teeth and extreme caution
must be exercised, as your hands will
be very close to them.
Causes of blade breakage
1. Excessive blade thickness in relation to the
ywheel diameter.
2. Defective welding.
3. Incorrect tension, particularly if the blade is
over tensioned; the tension spring no longer
fulls its function.
4. After use it is recommended that you slacken
the tension, especially overnight. (Be sure to
place a clearly visible note on the machine that
you have done this.
5. Misalignment of the ywheels.
6. Irregularity of ywheel surface, for instance,
an accumulation of sawdust while cutting
resinous materials.
You can correct these problems by readjusting
the machine, changing the way you operate it
or by changing the blade. Try only one change
at a time.
Causes of blade dulling.
1. Poorly set side guides or rear thrust guide.
2. Poor tracking.
3. Wrong blade selection. If the blade is too
narrow, it will ex more easily and decrease the
quality of the cut. The blade should also have
the correct pitch and width.
4. The tooth pitch is too ne (too many teeth
per inch).
5. Certain woods will dull a steel blade very
quickly, especially tropical hardwoods (teak,
koa, etc.). Other woods with a high silicon
content will also dull the blade quickly; even a
cut as short as 152,4mm will cause damage to
the blade.
6. On certain exotic woods, the ends have been
painted. This is done to control the drying.
The paint is very abrasive and will dull the
blade as you cut through it. It is recommended
that you cut the painted ends o󰀨 your wood.
Using a radius chart.
Until you become well acquainted with your
saw, it is best to use the contour (radius) chart
to determine which size blade to use for a
specic application. Radius charts can be found
in many woodworking books, magazine articles
and on blade boxes. They di󰀨er slightly from
one another but are good as rough indicators of
how tightly a curve can be cut with a particular
blade. Each blade saw and operator is di󰀨erent,
so it is impossible to make a truly accurate
chart. A blade can cut continuously without
backtracking any curve that has a radius as
much as or more than is shown on the chart.
For example: a 3/16“ blade will cut a circle with
a 5/16“ radius or a 5/8“ diameter. To test if a
3/16“ blade would work for a particular curve,
place a dime (roughly 5/8“) over the pattern.
The 3/16“ blade can cut a curve bigger than the
dime, but not smaller. You can use everyday
items such as coins or a pencil to determine
which blade to use. A quarter is the size of the
tightest cut that can be made with a 1/4“ blade.
A dime is the size of the tightest curve that can
be cut with a 3/16“ blade. A pencil eraser is the
size of the tightest turn that you can make with
a 1/8“ blade. After a while you won‘t even need
an object to size the possible curve of a blade
because you will have become familiar with this
process. There are options to matching the
blade to the smallest curve pattern. If there is
only one very tight cut, it may be best to use a
turning hole, a relief cut, successive passes or
to change the blade. If you have a lot of cutting
to do, you can use a wider blade for the bigger
curves and then switch to a narrower blade for
the tighter curves. Changing the blades can
often save cutting and nish time. The chart
above is only a rough guide and is not to scale,
but from the information you can construct your
own guide.
8.3 How to coil a bandsaw blade
Without a doubt it is more di󰀩cult to explain
how to coil a bandsaw blade than it is to
actually do it. Nevertheless, below are easy-to-
follow instructions on folding a blade.
Method 1
While wearing a jacket or long-sleeved shirt and
gloves, hold the blade in front of you in one
large loop, with the teeth facing towards you.
Place your foot on the blade, holding it on the
ground. Grasp the blade with both hands, with
your thumbs to the outside, at approximately
the 10 o‘clock and 2 o‘clock positions (Step 1).
Slowly twist the top of the blade away from
your body (Step 2). Bring your hands together
to form two loops while folding down (Step 3).
Continue rotating the blade until you form three
loops.
Note. It is recommended that the blade be
placed on material that will not damage the
blade teeth (wood or cardboard). Your foot
is there to give stability and not to clamp the
blade, so do not exert excessive force, or the
teeth/band may be damaged. The photographs
are shown without gloves to enable the hand/
thumb position to be shown. Gloves must be
worn, as the blade could cause injury.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Done
Note: In order to show the hand/thumb position
of the man in the photographs, he is not
wearing gloves, but gloves MUST BE WORN as
the blade could cause injury.
Method 2
There is another variation of this that works well
with small blades but simply is not
possible for larger bandsaw blades, unless
you‘re very big and strong. This method works
the same as the method above, but rather than
holding the blade with both hands, grasp
the blade at the top while holding the bottom of
the blade with your foot (teeth still facing
away from you). Grasp the blade with your
hand, twisting your arm such that your elbow is
facing away from your body (Step 1). Turn the
palm of your hand toward your body about
180 degrees and then continue turning while
pushing down on the blade (Steps 2, 3 and 4).
The blade will fold down upon itself into three
circles, lying at on the ground (Done).
Blade width
Cutting Rad

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Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Done
Method 3
The steering wheel method. Start with the blade
in front of you, as if you‘re holding a
steering wheel with your hands at the 9 o‘clock
and 3 o‘clock positions. Simultaneously
twist your left hand up and your right hand
down. As the blade starts to fold, move your
hands closer together while tilting your left hand
to the right and your right hand to the left.
The blade will fall into three coils. A variation of
this method is to hold the blade as above,
but twist both hands inward, so you‘re looking
at your knuckles and the blade will again fall
into three coils.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Done

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9. Maintenance
All tools and machines require regular
maintenance, and the bandsaw is no exception.
This section details the general maintenance
and care of your bandsaw. In general, we
recommend that you only use a Teon-based
lubricant on the bandsaw. While regular oil
attracts dust and dirt, Teon tends to dry and
has fewer tendencies to accumulate dirt and
sawdust on your machine.
Cleanliness and tire maintenance.
One of the major concerns in regards to the
maintenance of the bandsaw is how clean the
tires are. As the saw cuts, some sawdust lands
on the tire of the lower wheel. As the wheel
rotates, the sawdust becomes compressed on
the tire. This is especially true for woods such
as pine. The compressed sawdust could have
a negative e󰀨ect, such as vibration, short blade
life and drifting of the blade. A brush contacts
the lower wheel and helps to prevent buildup.
You should inspect the tires regularly to check
that buildup is not happening, especially the
lower wheel. The tires are made of rubber
and wear just like car tires. They wear in the
middle, which causes a concavity in the tire.
The deformation makes it hard to track the
blades, and for this reason it is important to
maintain the original shape of the tire. The best
way to clean the tire surface and maintain the
original shape is to sand it with sandpaper.
The old tire surface often hardens and glazes
over and should be redressed occasionally.
This can be done by sanding the wheel with
100-grit sandpaper. This will take o󰀨 a little of
the rubber and expose new rubber, which is
desirable. Rotate the wheels by hand with the
blade removed.
Guides
The ceramic side and back guides should be
inspected regularly for cracks and chips. If they
are damaged, they should be replaced as they
could damage your blades and bad guides
will detract from the performance of the
bandsaw. The guides should be cleaned
regularly and any wood gum or dirt removed.
Any commercially available solvent can be
used, and after cleaning they should be
lubricated with Teon-based lubricant.
Drive Belt
The drive belt should last for many years
(depending on the usage) but needs to be
inspected regularly for cracks, cuts and general
wear. If damage is found, replace the belt.
Replacing the drive belt
To replace the belts you will have to remove the
lower ywheel.
1. Loosen the motor clamp bolts and move the
motor so that the tension is completely
removed from the drive belt. Remove the blade.
Loosen the two hex nuts that hold the brake
to the bandsaw frame and slide it out of the way
of the disc.
2. Remove the ywheel shaft nut that clamps
the wheel axle (back of the bandsaw).
3. Pull the lower ywheel o󰀨 the bandsaw. You
may have to use a gear puller to remove the
lower wheel.
4. Replace the drive belt.
5. Ret the lower wheel and re-clamp with the
ywheel shaft nut.
6. Tension the drive belt and tighten the motor
clamping bolts.
Note. It is better to replace the drive belt early
than to have a breakdown during an
important job.
Note. Take great care not to damage the
bearings when taking the ywheel o󰀨 and
reassembling.
Table Insert.
The table insert (throat plate) is made of
aluminium and is designed to reduce damage
to the blade should they come in contact. If
the blade slot becomes too wide or the insert
becomes damaged by the blade, it should be
replaced. The replacement insert will have to
be tted to the table hole. The insert is provided
with four jacking screws that can be adjusted so
that the insert is level with the top of the table.
Bearings
All bearings are sealed for life and do not
require any maintenance. If a bearing becomes
faulty, replace it.
Rust
The bandsaw is made from steel and cast
iron. All non-painted surfaces will rust if not
protected. It is recommended that the table be
protected by coating with wax if the machine is
not in constant use. All moving non-painted
surfaces (guides, rack and pinion, etc.) should
be lubricated/protected with a Teon-based
lubricant.
Blade guide rack and pinion
The top guide when moved vertically tracks the
blade and comes factory-set. Adjustment
is provided should that mechanism become
misaligned. This is a tricky operation and
should only be attempted if an extreme error
has occurred.
Back guide forward/back adjustment.
1. Four clamping bolts and two Allen jacking
screws are provided.
2. Slightly loosen the two clamping bolts A and
tighten the bottom Allen screw B will bring the
guide forward.
3. Slightly loosen the two clamping bolts C and
tighten the top Allen screw D will bring the guide
back.
4. Make only very small adjustments. Tighten
the clamping bolts prior to checking the guide
vertical movement.
Note: The machine comes factory-set, and no
adjustment should be required.
Adjusting the break
Back break adjustor
Front break adjustor
Flywheel not shown for clarity
The back break adjustor moves clockwise to
remove slack in the break pad.
The front break adjustor is rotated clockwise
with an allen key to remove slack in the break
pad.
Clamp bolts C Allen jacking
screw D
Jack bolt B
Clamping bolts A
Rear Adjusting Knob
Front
Adjusting
Screw
Throat plate jacking screws
Tire brush
Drive belt
Motor drive pulley
Drive belt adjusting bolt
Flywheel shaft nut

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Adjusting the table square to the bandsaw
blade
Note. The machine is set in the factory and no
adjustment should be required but during
transportation movement may occur.
To access the adjustment screws, you will
have to tilt the table up to 45 degrees and lock
in position.
The adjustment is made with the jacking
screws 1 & 3 only. Jack screw 5 and clamp
screws 6 are used for support only.
1. Set the table to 90 degrees and place an
engineer‘s square on the table and check if the
blade is leaning forward or backward. The
blade will be parallel and it is easier to check
the blade at the back.
2. Tilt the table up to 45 degrees and lock in
position.
3. Loosen jack screw 5 and clamp screws 6
[only used for support and not adjustment].
4. If the top of the blade is leaning forward [gap
at the top of the engineers square], the back
of the table will have to be adjusted up. Slightly
loosen set screw 3 and the two hex head
screws 2, when loosening the clamp hex head
screws ensure that they are loosened the
same amount. Then fully tighten set screw 1
and the two hex head screws 4. Only make very
small adjustments as a small movement of the
jack screws makes a large adjustment of the
table. Move the table back to 90 degrees, clamp
in position and check if the blade is square to
the table with the engineers square. Repeat
adjustment if required.
5. If the top of the blade is leaning back [gap at
the bottom of the engineers square], the front
of the table will have to be adjusted up. Slightly
loosen set screw 3 and the two hex head
screws 2. Then fully tighten set screw 1 and the
two hex head screws 4. Only make very
small adjustments as a small movement of the
jack screws makes a large adjustment of the
table. Move the table back to 90 degrees, clamp
in position and check if the blade is square to
the table with the engineers square. Repeat
adjustment if required
6. Once adjustments have been completed,
lightly tighten set screw 5 and the two clamp
hex head screws 6. Do not over tighten as this
will bend the steel support plate and may a󰀨ect
the adjustment that you have
made.
Adjusting the table square to blade.
1. Check that the stop bolt is in contact with the
tilt-blanking disc.
2. Place an engineers square on the table top
and bring up to the side of the blade.
3. Check if the blade is square to the table.
4. If adjustment is required loosen the lock nut
on the tilt-stop bolt and adjust in the required
direction.
Note. Only adjust the tilt-stop bolt in very small
steps.
5. Tighten the lock nut and recheck
the blade square to the table.
Lock nut
Tilt stop bolt
6. If additional adjustment is required repeat
above steps.
10. Troubleshooting
Bandsaw will not start.
1. Check that the start switch is fully pulled out.
2. Check that the yellow safety plug is fully
engaged.
3. Check that the electrical power cord is
plugged into the power outlet.
4. Check that the electrical supply is on (reset
the breaker).
5. Check that you have the correct power.
The machine will not stop.
This is a very rare occurrence, as the machine
is designed to be fail-safe. If it should occur
and you cannot x the fault, seek professional
assistance. The machine must be
disconnected from the power and never run
until the fault has been rectied.
1. Stop switch faulty. Replace the stop switch.
2. Internal breaker faulty. Replace the breaker.
Motor tries to start but will not turn.
1. With the power disconnected from the
machine, open the doors and try to turn the
wheel by hand. If the wheel is not turning, check
the reason for the jamming. Typical reasons
are: guides too tight, wood jammed in the
wheel. Adjust guides or remove jammed wood.
2. Capacitor faulty. Replace the capacitor.
3. Motor faulty. Replace the motor.
Motor overheats.
The motor is designed to run very hot, but
should it overheat it has an internal terminal
overload protector that will shut it down until the
motor has cooled down and then it will reset
automatically. If the motor overheats, wait until it
has cooled down and restart. If the motor
shuts down constantly, check for the reason.
Typical reasons are dull blade, overfeeding the
wood, motor cooling fan clogged or faulty, motor
cooling ns clogged and excessive ambient
temperature.
Squeaking noise.
1. Check that the motor cooling fan is not
contacting the fan cover.
2. Check the bearings.
3. Check the drive belt.
4. Check that the guides are adjusted correctly.
Upper guide shaft is tight or loose.
1. Clean and lubricate.
2. Adjust rack and pinion.
3. Bent rack. Replace the rack.
Blade slows down during a cut.
1. Loose drive belt. Re-tension the belt.
2. Dull blade. Replace the blade or have it re-
sharpened.
3. Feeding the wood too fast. Slow down the
feed rate.
4. Insu󰀩cient set on the teeth (wood nipping the
blade). Change blade for a blade with the
correct set.
5. Oil or dirt on the drive belt. Clean or replace
the drive belts.
6. Fence not aligned correctly. Align fence.
Blade will not track on ywheels.
1. Bad blade. Change the blade.
2. Crown on the wheels worn or damaged tire.
Dress the tires.
The blade kicks.
Bad blade. Replace the blade.
The blade makes a clicking noise.
Bad weld. Dress the weld or change the blade.
Blade overheats.
1. Dull blade. Change the blade or resharpen
the blade.
2. Pitch is too small for the depth of cut. Change
to a blade with the correct pitch.
3. Guides too tight. Adjust the guides.
4. Wood too hard for the selected blade.
Change the blade.
5. Blade too thick for the diameter of the
wheels. Change the blade.
Machine vibrates.
1. Machine not level on the oor. Re-level the
machine ensuring that it has no movement.
2. Damaged drive belt. Replace the belt.

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[phone],www.igmtools.com
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