MARIN Attack Trail FRS160 User manual

Marin Attack Trail FRS160
Marin Attack Trail FRS160Marin Attack Trail FRS160
Marin Attack Trail FRS160
Service Manual
Service ManualService Manual
Service Manual
Edition 1: January 2011
Edition 1: January 2011Edition 1: January 2011
Edition 1: January 2011

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9.0: NOTES

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7.1: Removing the rear Dropouts from the Swinging Arm.
Tools Required: 5mm Allen Key
6mm Allen Key
Both Left (4) and Right Hand (2) dropouts are a modular design, that can be replaced if
damaged. They are each attached to the winging Arm (3) by two bolts (1a & 1b) . To
remove either Right Hand (2) or Left Hand (4) dropout apply heat to the assembly - to
reduce the Loctite strength - then using the 5mm Allen key for the outside bolts (1a) and
6mm Allen key for the Inside Bolts (1b), undo both bolts and remove them from the as-
sembly. The Dropout (2 & 4) should now be detached from the winging Arm (3). Take
care not to loose any of the components & also handle hot parts with care.
7. : Assembling the Dropouts onto the Swinging Arm
Tools Required: 5mm Allen Key
6mm Allen Key
Torque Wrench
Loctitie 638 retaining compound
It is important to make sure the winging Arm (3) and Dropouts (2 & 4) are clean and free
from mud, grease and other dirt, which could prevent the Dropouts (2 & 4) and winging
Arm (3) from fitting together perfectly. Before assembling the bolts (1a & 1b), apply a
small amount of Loctite 638 retaining compound to the threads of each of the bolts (1a &
1b), as well as to the outside of the Female Chain Ring Bolts (1b) so an even covering is
achieved. Next, assemble the parts as shown in Fig 7. making sure the Bolts (1a & 1b) are
correctly positioned as shown. Using the Torque Wrench, tighten the bolts (1a & 1b) to the
correct torque as specified in ection 8.0. Wipe off any excess retaining compound.
8.0: TORQUE SETTINGS
Torque explained: f no suitable Torque Wrench is available a Torque of 5 lbf.ft can be obtained by ap-
plying a force of 5lb, with a Spring Balance, to the end of a spanner, 1 Foot in length.
IMPORTANT: For all other torque settings, refer to the specific manufacturers information
bundled with this manual, or alternatively, refer to the specific manufacturers website for
further information.
Quad-Link Suspension: Nm lbs.ft
M8 Aero pace Nuts 18.0 +/- 1.8 13.3 +/- 1.4
Bearing Caps 5.0 +/- 0.5 3.7 +/- 0.4
Rear Dropout Assembly
Bolts 15.0 (Min) / 25.0 (Max) 11.0 (Min) / 18.5 (Max)
Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction
2.0 Geometry
3.0 Preparations for riding:
3.1 Making Adjustments
3.2 et up of Fork
3.3 et up of Rear hock
4.0 afety
5.0 Lubrication
6.0 ervicing the Rear uspension:
6.1 Removing the Rear hock and winging Arm
6.2 tripping and Re-assembling Front and Rear Quad-Links
6.2.1 Extraction of flanged KP5AX Bearings
6.2.2 Insertion of flanged KP5AX Bearings
6.2.3 Re-Assembly of Quad-Links
6.3 Re-assembling the Rear uspension
6.3.1 Correct Orientation of Front and Rear Quad-Links
6.3.2 Re-Assembling the Rear uspension
7.0 ervicing The Marin Rear Dropout ystem
7.1: Removing the Rear Dropouts from the winging Arm.
7.2: Assembling the Rear Dropouts onto the winging Arm
8.0 Tightening Torque ettings
9.0 Notes

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1.0: INTRODUCTION
Thanks for choosing Marin. We hope you will enjoy all the benefits its advanced design and
engineering will bring to your riding experience.
This manual will guide you through the set-up, safety and maintenance procedures that
are specific to your Marin suspension frameset. For other more general information, we
strongly advise that you also read thoroughly the General Instruction Manual that is also
supplied with your new bike.
Also, please note that the specification of all the components that are fitted to your bike as
standard may be obtained from the Marin Bikes Brochure or alternatively from the Marin
Bikes website www.marin.co.uk
Bundled with this manual, are the respective manufacturers instructions and manuals for
the branded parts that go to make up the Marin build. Please take time to study both this
manual and all the relevant instruction manuals to ensure you have a continually safe and
well set-up bike before every ride, and to help you build up a relationship of knowledge
between you and your Marin Dealer.
Marin design team. January 2011
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7.0: SERVICING THE MARIN DROPOUT SYSTEM.
Item Description
1a Chain ring Bolt; Male
1b Chain Ring Bolt; Female
Dropout, Maxle Modular type, Derailleur side
3 winging Arm Boss
4 Dropout, Maxle Modular type, Disc side
Fig.7: Exploded view of Dropout Assembly

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6.3. : REASSEMBLING THE REAR SUSPENSION
(For pictorial views of the assembly, refer to Fig. 2 on page 10)
Tools Required: Medium Flat Bladed Screwdriver
10mm A/F Spanner
Torque Wrench with 10 A/F socket
The re-assembly of the rear suspension is basically the reverse of the dis-assembly proce-
dure. tarting with the shorter rear Quad Link (5) ensure the rear Quad-Link (5) is com-
plete and correctly assembled ( ee Fig.3). Next make sure the rear Quad-Link (5) is cor-
rectly orientated (see fig. 5) and pass a 90mm M8 haft (9) through the rear Quad-Link
(5) and Main Frame (6). Next take the rear shock (7) and assemble the front mount of the
rear shock (7) using KF LG/AF or Castrol Optimol T anti fret paste on the contacting sur-
faces, into the forward shock mount of the Mainframe (6). IMPORTANT. Ensure the rear
shock is the correct way up, with the blue Pro Pedal lever facing upwards. Assemble the
longer front Quad-Link (4) onto the Mainframe (6), and pass a 90mm M8 haft (9) through
the front Quad-Link (4), the Mainframe (6) and through the front of the shock (7) until the
M8 haft (9) is showing out the other side of the front Quad-Link(4). You should now have
both front and rear Quad-Links assembled onto the Mainframe (6), with the rear shock (7)
in position. Next lower the winging Arm (3) onto the rear suspension assembly and posi-
tion the winging Arm (3) onto the front Quad-Link (4) first. Pass a 90mm M8 haft (9)
through the front Quad-Link and winging Arm (3) until it has passed though the other
side. Next rotate the winging Arm (3) down to attach it to the rear Quad-Link (5) and the
rear of the shock (7). Once you have the winging Arm (3) in the correct position, make
sure that the rear Quad-Link (5), the winging Arm (3) and the rear shock (7) though
holes are all concentric with each other, and push through the 100mm M8 haft (8). Next
re-fit the M8 Aero pace Nuts (3). IMPORTANT: before final tightening of the M8 Aero pace
Nuts (3), it is important to make sure that there is a balanced amounts of thread showing
through the M8 Aero pace Nuts (2) on each side of the front and rear Quad-Link assem-
blies. Using the screwdriver in the end of the M8 hafts (8 & 9), and the 10mm spanner,
adjust all 4 M8 hafts (8) accordingly. Refer to Fig. 6. Tighten all M8 Aero pace Nuts (2) to
the recommended settings. (Refer
to the Tightening torque settings
in ection 8.0) Next make sure
that there is still a substantial
amount of Molykote 111 ilicon
covering all the KP5AX flanged
bearings. Refit the Bearing Caps
(1) by screwing them into the
links. Take care not to cross
thread the Bearing Caps (1). Us-
ing the screwdriver, tighten the
Bearing Caps (1) to stop them
from shaking loose. (Refer to the
Tightening torque settings in ec-
tion 8.0). Finally, refit the rear
wheel into the swinging arm.
Fig.6: Maximum Thread Protrusion
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.0: GEOMETRY
Note: This is ‘ howroom’ Geometry, ie: without a rider sat on the bicycle.
*Top tube length is the distance from the point where the centre line of the head tube meets the centre line of the top
tube, horizontally back to the centre line of the seat tube.
**BB Height will vary, depending on what tyre size is actually fitted.
Fig.1: Geometry
FRAME SIZE Small / 16.5” Medium / 17.5” Large / 19”
Head Angle (A) 65° 65° 65°
eat Angle (B) 72° 72.5° 73°
Top Tube* (C) 577mm/22.7” 595mm/23.4” 606mm/47.3”
BB Height** (D) 337mm/13.3” 340mm/13.4” 341mm/13.4”
tand Over (E) 792mm/31.2” 820mm/32.3” 836mm/32.9”
Wheel Base (F) 1111mm/43.7” 1133mm/44.6” 1146mm/45.1”
Head Tube (G) 115mm/4.53” 120mm/4.72” 125mm/4.92”
eat Post (H) 30.9 mm/1.217” 30.9 mm/1.217” 30.9 mm/1.217”
eat Tube (I) 419.1mm/16.5” 444.5mm/17.5” 482.6mm/19”

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3.0: PREPARATIONS FOR RIDING
3.1: MAKING ADJUSTMENTS:
Please refer to the specific component manufacturers
manual or published technical information about ad-
justing the components on your Marin.Instructions
may be downloaded from the relevant manufacturer’s
internet site, as shown in the table to the right.
If you are uncertain in any way, about making ad-
justments to any components on you Marin, then DO
NOT RIDE YOUR BIKE. Contact your Marin dealer who
will be able to advise you on how to go about setting
up you Marin for riding, and or making adjustments
to the components fitted to your Marin.
3. : SET UP OF FORK
Tools Required: Good Quality Shock Pump.
Please note that for the detailed instructions for servicing and all matters relating to the
fork, please refer to the manufacturers instructions.
The front fork is pre-set with a standard setting when you buy your Marin. Before riding,
you will need to adjust the sag setting on the fork. This is to ensure it is set-up correctly
for your own body weight, so the fork will perform as intended.
To set sag on a front fork, you need to measure the amount the fork compresses when you
sit on the bike in the normal riding position. We recommend for the best synergy between
front and rear suspension systems to run approximately 32mm (20%) ag on the front
fork.
ag on forks is controlled by adjusting the Air pring pressure, or if you have a coil spring
fork, the rate of the coil spring inside the fork. This is not adjustable, and requires the fork
to be rebuilt with a different spring. Please consult your Marin Dealer for more information.
Rebound Damping adjustment:
This adjustment fine-tunes the speed at which the wheel returns to its normal ride height
after hitting a bump. To demonstrate the effect of this function, turn the adjuster to its
slowest setting. Press down on the handlebars to compress the forks, then release the
load. The suspension recovers very slowly to its original position.
Repeat the above with the adjuster turned to the fastest setting and the difference will be
seen immediately the load is released. We recommend the optimum setting is to adjust the
re-bound damping to be as slow as possible, but not so slow that the normal ride height is
not recovered. On very rough terrain, if the front or rear of the bike becomes progressively
lower as more bumps are hit then the re-bound damping is set too slow. On the other hand
Fulcrum www.fulcrumwheels.com
Fox www.foxracingshox.com
Kenda www.kendauk.com
Mavic www.mavic.com
Maxxis www.maxxis.com
himano www.shimano.com
RAM www.sram.com
WTB www.wtb.com
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LGAF 3 compound Castrol Optimol T to the link contact surfaces on the Main
Frame and Swinging Arm.
Loctite 638 & KF LGAF3 can be purchased from Brammer Ltd www.brammer.co.uk
Castrol Optimol T can be purchased from Motobins www.motobins.co.uk
Molycote 111 can be purchased from il-Mid Ltd www.silmid.com
6.3: REASSEMBLING THE REAR SUSPENSION.
6.3.1: CORRECT ORIENTATION OF FRONT AND REAR QUAD-LINKS.
Note that both of the links MU T be orientated as shown, otherwise they will touch the rear
shock.
Front Link (4)
Rear Link (5)
Through hole is offset away
from down-tube on front
triangle (6)
Fig.5: Quad-Link Orientation

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6. .1: EXTRACTION OF KP5AX FLANGED BEARINGS
Tools required: KP5AX bearing press tool.
6mm AF Allen Key
10mm AF Spanner.
To remove the KP5AX flanged bearings from the Link Body (4). Assemble the parts as
shown in Fig 10a. Using the 6mm Allen Key and 10mm spanner, tighten the assembly to-
gether until the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) is pressed out of the Link Body (4). Repeat on
all 7 other KP5AX flanged bearings.
6. . : INSERTION OF KP5AX FLANGED BEARINGS
Tools required: Whyte KP5AX bearing press tool.
6mm AF Allen Key
10mm AF Spanner
Loctite 638
Before re-assembling both front and rear link assemblies, make sure all the components
are clean from dirt and have been thoroughly de-greased. To press the KP5AX flanged
bearings (5) into the Link Body (4) apply a small amount of Loctite 638 to the outside di-
ameter of the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) and to the inside bearing bore of the Link Body
(4). Next assembly the components as illustrated in Fig.10b, noting how the bearing’s
flanged side must face towards the middle of the link. It is very important to make
sure the KP5AX flanged bearing (5) and Bearing Insertion tool 1 (3) are squarely seated
against the Link Body (4). With great care, slowly tighten the M8 ocket head cap screw
(7) with the 6mm Allen key and 10mm panner until you can see the KP5AX bearing (5)
being pressed squarely into the Link Body (4). Once the KP5AX flanged bearing is fully
seated and you can no longer tighten the M8 ocket Head Cap crew further, undo the nut
and bolt and wipe away any excess Loctite from around the KP5AX flanged bearing, espe-
cially from the threads of the link. Repeat for the remaining 7 KP5AX Bearings. Finally,
check that the bearings are aligned with each other by inserting an M8 haft through each
pair of bearings at each ends of the link. The shaft must pass through freely. If not, then
the bearings are not sitting squarely in the links. Use the Bearing Insertion tool 1 (3)
again to square them up and confirm that by inserting the M8 haft again.
6. .3: REASSEMBLY OF QUAD-LINKS
Tools required: Molykote Silicon 111
Before re-assembling the Middle hield Washer Components (3 see Fig.9), apply a good
quantity of Molykote 111 ilicon on top of the KP5AX flanged bearings. The Molykote ili-
con should completely cover each bearing and be applied on both sides of each bearing as
it is assembled into the Link Body. Next assemble the hield Washer Components (3 see
Fig.9), If you have applied enough Molykote 111 ilicon, it should spread from under the
hield Washer component as they are positioned, so as to protect the bearing from con-
tamination. Wipe this excess ilicon away from around the hield Washer Components.
APPLICATION OF SKF LG/AF or Castrol Optimol T ANTI-FRET PASTE
Once the Links have been assembled correctly, SKF LGAF 3 Compound or Castrol
Optimol T must be applied to all outside faces of the bearing flanges, that contact
the Main Frame and Swinging Arm. It is additionally recommended to apply SKF
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if the bike feels choppy and not plush then the re-bound damping is too fast. A bit of trial
and error is needed to get the exact setting. Riders may choose to change their settings,
while stationary, depending on the terrain they are riding.
3.3: SET UP OF REAR SHOCK
Tools Required: Good Quality Shock Pump.
Please note that for the detailed instructions for servicing and all matters relating to the
rear shock, please refer to the manufacturers instructions. The rear shock is pre-set with
standard settings when you buy your Marin. Before riding, you will need to fine adjust the
sag setting on the rear shock. This is to ensure it is set-up correctly for your own body
weight, so the shock will perform as intended.
The correct ‘sag’ can be found using the sliding ‘o’ ring fitted to the shaft of the shock pis-
ton. lide the ‘o’ ring against the shock body. Then gently sit on the bike in your normal
riding position. Carefully dismount and measure the distance the ‘o’ ring has moved away
from the shock body. The optimum distance for the Marin QUAD 2 system is between
12mm (25%) and 15mm (30%) displacement from the ‘o’ ring back up to the shock body.
25% sag gives a firmer ride, and 30% sag gives a plusher ride. Trial and error is required
to arrive at a setting which you are happy with.
If there is less sag than required, fit a shock pump and release air pressure. Conversely if
there is greater sag than required, fit the shock pump and increase air pressure. Repeat
the ‘sag’ test until the desired displacement is achieved.
Rear uspension et-up - Rebound Damping:
When the shock is being compressed, this is known as the compression stroke. As the sus-
pension recovers from compression back towards its full length, this is called the re-bound
stroke. All the shocks fitted as standard to the Marin full suspension bikes have factory set
compression damping, and manually adjustable rebound damping.
Rebound Damping Adjustment:
This adjustment fine-tunes the speed at which the rear wheel returns to its normal ride
height after hitting a bump. The adjuster is coloured red and is found on the rear shock .
An arrow marked slower indicates the direction to turn the dial to slow down the re-bound
speed of the suspension. To demonstrate the effect of this, turn the adjuster to its slowest
setting. Press down on the saddle to compress the suspension, then release the load. The
suspension recovers very slowly to its original position.
Repeat the above with the adjuster turned to the fastest setting and the difference will be
seen immediately the load is released. We recommend the optimum setting is to adjust the
re-bound damping to be as slow as possible, but not so slow that the normal ride height is
not recovered. On very rough terrain, if the rear of the bike becomes progressively lower
as more bumps are hit then the re-bound damping is set too slow. On the other hand if the
bike feels choppy and not plush then the re-bound damping is too fast. A bit of trial and
error is needed to get the exact setting. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: Always stop riding
when making adjustments of any kind to the bicycle!

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Rear hock Adjustment.
Please refer to the relevant Instruction Manual to learn more about the advanced features
of your rear shock.
4.0: SAFETY
IMPORTANT: The following are intended to be advisory notes on the safe use of your
Marin. If at any stage you are uncertain about the safety or safe operation of the bike as a
whole, or any specific component, then DO NOT RIDE YOUR Marin and instead please
consult the specific component manufacturers instruction manual or your Marin Dealer for
advice.
WARNING: As is the case with all mechanical components, the bicycle is subjected to
wear and high stresses. Different materials and components may react to wear and stress
fatigue in different ways. If the design life of a component has been exceeded, it may fail
suddenly causing possible injury to the rider. Any form of crack, scratches and decolouring
in highly stresses areas are showing that the component has exhausted its life time and
has to be replaced. If you are in any doubt about the condition of any of the components
on your Marin. DO NOT RIDE YOUR BIKE. Consult the specific component manufacturers
literature, or take your bike to your local Marin Dealer for advise.
Before your first ride:
• Brake levers: Familiarise yourself with which brake lever operates which brake. As
standard the Marin is set-up so as the right-hand brake lever operates the front
brake, and the left hand brake lever operates the rear brake.
• Gear Shifters: Familiarise yourself with the function and operation of the gear shift
levers in accordance with the manufacturers instruction and guidance
• Marin Lock On Grips: Make sure the grips are securely fastened to the handlebars
and cannot rotate or become loose at any time during riding.
• Tyre pressures: They should be set by your dealer before you collect the bike.
However, ensure that the tyre pressures are between the upper and lower limits as
shown on the sidewalls of the tyres.
• Suspension Settings: Ensure that you have followed the recommended proce-
dures for setting up the Marin suspension systems outlined in ections 3.2 and 3.3
of this manual. Also refer to the relevant instructions and guidance as outlined in
the front fork and rear shock manuals.
• IMPORTANT: please note that you must ensure that your Marin complies with your
countries National Legal Requirements when the bicycle is used on public roads.
After Every Ride:
• Post-Ride cleaning: We strongly recommend cleaning your bike after every ride.
This provides you with the best opportunity of a close and systematic inspection of
almost every component, for damage and wear on a ride by ride basis.
• Lubrication: Directly after cleaning your bike after a ride, is the best time to carry
out the lubrication regime for the various components as outlined in this manual,
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Item: Description.
1 M8 Nut
M8 Washer
3 KP5AX Tool 1
4 Link Body
5 KP5AX Flanged Bearing
6 KP5AX Tool 2
7 M8x50mm ocket Head Cap crew
Fig.4a: KP5AX Bearing Extraction Fig.4b: KP5AX Bearing Insertion

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6. : STRIPPING AND REASSEMBLING FRONT AND REAR QUAD-LINKS.
Fig.3: Assembly for both front and rear Quad-Links
Item Description
1 KP5AX flanged bearing
Front or Rear Link Body
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and in the respective component manufactures technical information.
Before every ride: Pre-ride safety check.
• Frameset Components: We recommend that before every ride you visually in-
spect the mainframe swinging arm and associated components for signs of damage
or excessive wear due to hard use.
• Brakes: Check the Disc and Brake pads for wear and performance degradation, and
the hydraulic hoses for damage, in accordance with the specific recommendations in
the relevant component makers instruction manual bundled with this manual.
• Wheels: Check that both wheels are securely attached to the bike, and the respec-
tive dropout systems are correctly adjusted. Check the condition of both wheels,
and look for cracks or large dents in the aluminium Rim, and check for loose or bro-
ken spokes and/or spoke nipples, and wheels out of alignment in line with the spe-
cific recommendations in the relevant instruction manual bundled with this manual.
• Lubrication: Check all parts have been lubricated in accordance with the specific
component makers instruction manual.
• Gear Shifting: Check for and replace any frayed or degraded cable inner wire and
outer casing and check all relevant parts are in correct adjustment for use in accor-
dance with the specific instruction manual
• Steering and Headset: Check for loose headset bearings or tight spots when turn-
ing the handlebars in both directions, and service, adjust or replace in accordance
with the manufacturers specific instruction manual.
• Tyres: Check for excessively worn, or cut tyres. Check the inflation pressure is
within the recommended range. Refer to the specific manufacturers recommenda-
tions.
• Suspension Settings: Ensure that you have followed the recommended proce-
dures for setting up the Marin suspension systems outlined in ections 3.2 and 3.3
of this manual. Also refer to the relevant instructions and guidance as outlined in
the front fork and rear shock manuals.
• Helmet: We recommend that for off-Road riding, a helmet meeting a reputable
international standard is used and be worn on every ride. Check the helmet is not
damaged in any way before riding. Do not ride if your helmet has sustained dam-
age.
Designed for the following use:
The Marin Attack Trail bike has been designed, tested and complies with B EN 14766
afety tandard, for typical cross country and free-ride mountain biking use. It has not
been designed or tested for extreme down-hilling.
5.0: LUBRICATION
For the correct lubrication regime and maintenance of all parts on all models of Marin
bikes, please refer to the specific component manufacturers detailed instructions bundled
with this manual or for further information visit the specific manufacturers website. Any
lubrication requirements regarding the Marin Quad-Link suspension system are covered in
the disassembly and re-assembly sections in this manual. If you are in any doubt, please
contact your local Marin Dealer.

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6.0: SERVICING THE REAR SUSPENSION
Fig. : Marin Rear Suspension
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Item Description
1 Link Cap Cover
M8 Aerospace Nut
3 Rear winging Arm
4 Front Link Assembly
5 Rear Link Assembly
6 Front Triangle
7 Rear hock
8 M8 x 100mm long tud
9 M8 x 90mm long tud
6.1: REMOVING THE REAR SHOCK AND SWINGING ARM
See Figure
Tools Required: Medium Flat Bladed Screwdriver
10mm A/F Socket Wrench (2 off)
To remove the rear shock from the frame, first remove the rear wheel from the swinging
arm. Using the screwdriver, unscrew the 8 Bearing Caps (1) 4 per link. Next using the
10mm ockets, undo the M8 Aerospace nuts (2) on the M8 shaft (8) that passes through
the rear link assembly (5) and swinging arm (3). Whichever Aerospace Nut (3) becomes
undone first, remove it, and pull the M8 haft (8) out from the other side. The swinging
arm (3) can now be rotated out of the rear link assembly (5). Next using the 10mm sock-
ets undo the M8 Aerospace nuts (2) on the M8 haft (9) that pass through the front of the
winging Arm (3). Whichever Aerospace Nut (2) becomes undone first, remove it, and pull
the M8 haft (9) out from the other side. You can now lift off the winging Arm (3) from
the front (4) and rear (5) link assemblies. To remove the links from the main frame (6)
using the 10mm ockets, undo the M8 Aerospace nuts (2) on the M8 shaft (9) that passes
through the Main Frame (6) and front of the rear shock assembly (7). Again whichever
Aerospace Nut (2) becomes undone first, remove it, and pull the M8 haft (9) out from the
other side. You can now remove the rear shock assembly (7) and Front Link Assembly (4)
from the main frame (6). To Remove the Rear Link Assembly (5) from the bike, using the
10mm ockets, undo the M8 Aerospace nuts (2) on the M8 shaft (9) that passes through
the Rear Link Assembly (5) and the Main Frame (6) and remove the M8 shaft (9) and the
Rear Link Assembly (5) from the Main Frame (6).