MC Cutter MC Cable Cutter & Pigtailer User manual

McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Drive
Deltona, FL 32738
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Visit Our Website: www.mccutter.com
IMPORTANT SAFETY MESSAGE AND WARNING!!!
To all that should be concerned including: Safety Managers, Pre-Fab
Foremen, Tool Crib Foremen, Owners, CEOs, Directors, Users of the
Machine, etc.
It has been brought to our attention that there have been injuries to users of our Machine, the
MC Cable Cutter & Pigtailer (the Machine). This concerns us a great deal! The injuries are the
result of hands/fingers getting cut by the partially exposed “notching” blades on the end of the
drill motors. By design, the blades start automatically as the machine is almost fully closed and
normally present limited risk UNLESS a user places his/her hands fingers in close proximity
to the blades while the blades are spinning and/or defeats the micro-switch that turns off the
drills when the Machine is opened. Loose or poorly fitting gloves might exacerbate the risk of
injury if the blades grab hold of the gloves and pull the fingers in while spinning.
We are developing guards and warning labels to be sent to you in the coming months. A
principal of your company will need to sign a form indicating the labels and guards have been
received and installed. Please install the labels and guards as soon as you get them.
Until then and effective immediately, any users of the Machine should be made aware of the
risks of injury and if not able to acknowledge the risk, they should NOT be allowed to operate
the Machine. Users should read the following instructions and also the safety information
contained in the separate instructions that came with the saw and drills and was included in the
instruction packet.
The Machine should be locked up when not in use to prevent unauthorized/untrained/unsafe
users from operating it. These have been the people whom have been injured.
It should go without saying that a Machine with “Cutter” in its name is capable of doing exactly
that. The Machine is an industrial tool intended to be used by properly-trained, safety-conscious
users, familiar with the safe operation of power tools and equipment and have read the
instructions thoroughly or whom have had the instructions read and explained to them. A “temp”
worker or unsupervised “trainee” may not have the proper training or knowledge to fit into the
“skilled with power tools/equipment” category and could get injured using the Machine (or any
OTHER power tool or equipment for that matter…)
If you have determined that the risk of injury outweighs the benefits the Machine can provide for
you please Email [email protected] and we will work to help you transfer your machine to
another company who has decided to accept the potential risk. Thank You.

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
Operating Instructions
(revised 07/01/14)—for Hitachi saw
•WARNING!!!: THIS MACHINE CAN START AUTOMATICALLY!!!
•WARNING!!!: THIS MACHINE HAS EXPOSED CUTTING BLADES!!!
•Please read these instructions to get a familiarization for the operation and adjustment
of your machine—other users should read them, as well!
•Also, please read the manufacturer’s instructions and safety information for the saw
and drills that should have been included with your machine. If you didn’t receive
those documents or are missing them give us a call and we’ll mail any missing items
to you. Alternately, you can download them from the Web.
•If in doubt about ANY aspect of operating your machine or for other questions or
comments, give us a call at [phone]. Voicemails will be answered promptly!
Note that we do not return pages or reply to text messages.
•Remember—SAFETY FIRST! When using this machine we recommend that you use
the same precautions that you would when using any power tool. Eye, Ear and tight-
fitting Hand protection are required. Unplug the machine when not in use or when
making any adjustment to it. If you leave the machine unattended for any length of
time, double-check that the blades are secure and adjustments are correct.
•NOTE: Make sure the main power switch is OFF or unlatch and open the machine
before you plug it into a 110vac outlet! Remember, the machine has a microswitch
that turns it on automatically when closed.
•We strongly recommend the use of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) adapter
with our metal-framed machine. It should be rated for 15amps.
Setup:
Place the machine on a flat surface free of obstructions. A long benchtop is recommended.
Allow room for the machine to open. You may want to secure the machine to the benchtop
with clamps or screws. That will help to assure consistent cut cable lengths (a “whip”).
Measure off the desired whip length from the center, cut-off saw slot to a point on the
benchtop and mark it. The distance from the cut-off saw to the notching blade is called the
“pigtail”. Adjust the notching blades to your desired pigtail length by loosening the black
knobs and moving the drills away from the cut-off saw the desired amount then tighten the
knobs securely. Initial adjustment from us is 9”. Make sure the machine’s main power switch
is OFF before you plug the machine into a 110vac outlet. A cable spool holder/reel is
recommended to avoid unnecessary twists in the cable as it is fed into the machine. Unlatch
and open (pivot) the machine all the way back.
Operation:
Feed the cable from the spool through the “Wear Cone” into the “V” (“V-block”) and onward
to your desired length. Turn the power switch “ON”—note the indicator light. Pivot the top
frame down onto the cable in the V-block. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS OR FINGERS
NEAR THE BLADES! As the top frame nears the cable, a micro-switch starts all cutters.
Continue down smoothly until the top frame reaches the end of its travel and listen for the
saws to finish “zinging” (cutting) then raise the machine fully open again and the micro-switch
will turn off the cutters. The center saw cuts the whip to length while the two outer blades cut

parallel to the cable to notch it. This creates pigtails on the end of one whip and the
beginning of the next once you twist the armor off each end. Repeat until you have the
desired number of whips, then turn your machine OFF and unplug it! See the “Operating
Notes” and “Adjustments” sections and other documents that follow for more information on
the operation and adjustment of your machine…
Operating Notes:
•Your machine has been adjusted and tested before delivery using aluminum and steel
12-2 MC cable and should be ready to plug in and go. However, due to different cable
size and/or manufacturer variance (ie: cable armor thickness), fine adjustments may
be needed. See below under “Adjustments, NOTCHING BLADES”.
•Once adjusted properly, your machine should hold its notch cutting depth adjustment
indefinitely although it is good practice to check it occasionally or if you move the
machine. Evidence of improper adjustment is difficulty untwisting the armor to expose
the pigtail which would require a deeper cut (shorten hold-down rod) or nicked
insulation which would require a shallower cut (lengthen hold-down rod).
•When cutting, it is important to LET THE BLADES DO THE WORK! Do not force the
machine to cut more quickly. This can result in broken notching blades. Many issues
with cutting can be solved by taking an extra second during the cut.
•When changing notching blades (machine unplugged!), be sure to install them in the
correct cutting direction and make sure the drills are rotating in the correct direction,
as well. The left-side drill and blade should cut counter-clockwise as you look at them
and clockwise for the right-side drill and blade. The direction levers on the drills
should point away from the center, cut-off saw. Keep in mind that the right-side drill
incorporates a left-hand-thread stud and nut so don’t lose the hardware for it! This is
done to avoid loosening of the blade. Also note the position of the washers. Refer to
the document “Correct Notching Blade Rotation” for more information.
•Steel MC Cable Notes: Most steel cables should cut as normal with the installed,
“coarse” (60T) notching blades. However, some steel AND aluminum cables are
harder and can have a tendency to be “sucked-in” by the cut-off saw. Refer to the
document “Cable Cutting Tips” for more information.
•Your machine is supplied with a movable, removable guide channel. Some cables are
really curly such as at the end of a spool. In that case, the movable guide will help
keep the cable in the V-Block to let the spring-loaded hold-downs press the cable
down, so it can be cut and pigtailed. The carriage bolt guides in the V-block can also
be moved to different holes to aid cable guidance or removed if not needed. Similarly,
the wear cone can be moved to the right side of the machine if you prefer to work
right-to-left.
•If you are making an initial cut or at the beginning of a spool, bring the cable just past
the second drill hold-down to get the initial pigtail, then continue as above. This is
necessary because the pigtail cutters work together by “pushing” against the cut-off
saw blade as it turns. Alternately, you could clamp the cable with Vise-Grips just to
the outside of the cut-off saw
•Spare parts and blades can be ordered from us. See the document “Order Form” for
more information.

Adjustments:
CUT-OFF SAW: The 7” Hitachi cut-off saw now supplied with the MC Cable Cutter & Pigtailer
is fitted with a 7” continuous-rim diamond blade. This blade will last for a long time and does
not get significantly smaller as it wears. A 7” fiber blade can also be used for harder
materials such as conduit or rebar. Initial adjustment of the saw is at the bottom of its travel.
To raise the saw to change the blade, loosen the adjustment lever and pull it “up” then lift the
saw up and re-tighten the lever while you change the blade. Note that “label side in” allows
for the proper rotation of the diamond blade.
SPRING-LOADED HOLD-DOWNS: The depth of cut should be checked initially and
occasionally during operation to avoid damage to the cable insulation. This is adjustable by
loosening the wingnut on the top of the spring-loaded hold down plunger and turning the
lower, adjustment nut up or down as needed. Moving the nut “Up” will decrease the depth of
the cut and “Down” will increase the depth of the cut. Only turn the nut one or two “flats” at a
time (1/6 to 1/3 of a turn), lock the adjustment, and test-cut a piece. Be sure the hold-down
pads stay aligned lengthwise with the V-block. Proper adjustment is when the armor is
barely cut all the way through and a small “snap” is heard as you use minimal effort to twist
off the scrap.
NOTCHING BLADES: The standard, “coarse” 60T blades are black-oxide coated, high-speed
steel with a slight kerf and last indefinitely when used with aluminum-jacketed MC. The
optional, “fine” 132T blades are precision ground and hardened with no kerf. These work the
best with steel-jacketed cable and may clog when used with aluminum-jacketed cable. Be
certain that the rotation switches on the drill motors remain in position to cut towards each
other. When blades are changed, observe placement of washers. Remember, the right side
blade is held by a LEFT-HAND nut to prevent accidental loosening. Refer to the document
“Correct Notching Blade Rotation” for more information.
MICRO-SWITCH CAM: The micro-switch should turn on the cut-off saw and pigtail cutters
just before contact. This allows them to spin up and avoids lugging of the machine. The
micro-switch cam may be loosened and adjusted if necessary. You can also manually
depress the micro-switch with the machine open to check for proper drill and saw operation
being careful not to contact the moving blades. Clearance between the roller arm and
microswitch body is .035” (the thickness of a paper clip).
V-BLOCK: If the notching blade develops a tendency to grab or roll past the cable rather than
cutting squarely, the V-block may be adjusted to center the notching blades on the cable.
Refer to the document “V-Block Adjustment” for the complete adjustment procedure.
Warranty:
There is a one-year warranty on the machine and most components (see website for details).
If you have any questions or need any assistance, please call, fax or Email us.
Contact:
McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Dr., Deltona, FL 32738
[phone], fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
Visit Our Website: www.mccutter.com

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
Cable Cutting Tips
(revised 07/01/14)
Most steel-armored cable will cut as normal with the installed, “coarse” (60T) notching
blades! However, some steel cable is harder and can have a tendency to be “sucked-in” by
the cut-off saw, especially the larger sizes. If you experience this or other problems with a
hard steel cable or any cable for that matter, first make sure the machine is adjusted
properly Refer to the documents “Operating Instructions”, “V-Block Adjustment” and/or
“Correct Notching Blade Rotation”. If none of those help you, then try one or all of the
following tips:
•Cable should be fed from a reel or spool holder to avoid unnecessary twists.
•Take your time making the cuts—LET THE BLADES DO THE WORK!
•Use the set of fine-toothed (132T) notching blades that you should have received with
your machine. They are held to the underside of the V-block by a screw. Call us to order
a pair. (NOTE: these blades are intended for steel use only and tend to clog when used
on aluminum…)
•Be sure that the notching blade cuts in the center of the cable. If it is off to the side it will
tend to grab and push the cable instead of cutting into it. Refer to the document “V-Block
Adjustment” for the complete adjustment procedure.
•If your initial notching adjustment is too deep, the blades can grab. This is corrected by
adjusting the hold-down pads from a shallow cut to a deep cut increasing the depth of the
notching adjustments a little at a time.
•When cutting, use a deliberate, smooth motion and wait for the saws to stop cutting
(“zinging”) before you raise the saws. Let the blades do their work!
•Try installing the channel guide about an 1/8” to the right or left of the cut-off saw slot on
the V-block. This will usually be enough to hold the cable in place. This is especially
helpful when you get to the end of a spool and the cable is very curly. The carriage bolts
may also be moved to aid in cable guidance.
•There are two holes in the hold down pads. Take 1-1/2” of bare #12 wire, (OR Update:
use steel 1/16” welding rod—more durable!), bend it like a staple to fit into the holes from
the bottom. Push up tight against the pads and bend the ends over to hold it tight. This
can be done to one or both pads as necessary. As it slips, the wire engages the groove
of the cable to help hold it in place. Remove the wire if you change to a cable that
doesn’t slip.
•Bring the saw frame down to make your cut as usual, but before you raise it turn the
power switch OFF.
•We have a “kit” which incorporates an additional spring-loaded hold-down for the right-
side drill frame and an adjustable plate which mounts on the left-side drill frame
underneath the cut-off saw motor or another spring-loaded hold-down can be used if you
bring the drill frame more outboard. Available by special order.
•Please call us with any questions or concerns…
McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Drive, Deltona, FL 32738
[phone] fax [phone] ~~ Visit Our Website: www.mccutter.com

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
Parts Labels

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
V-Block Adjustment
(revised 07/01/14)
Proper alignment of the V-Block to notching blades is important to prevent
“grabbing” of the cable as it is cut. What happens is that instead of cutting directly
into the cable the blades cut alongside of the cable and can grab it and force it
into the cut-off saw. This can also be the cause of broken notching blade teeth.
Proper alignment is verified before shipping, but rough handling during shipping or
at other times can move the V-Block, resulting in misalignment. You may also
have to adjust the V-Block towards the front of the MC Cable Cutter & Pigtailer
when moving from a smaller diameter cable (ie: 14-2) to a larger cable (ie: 10-3).
This is due to the larger arc the notching blade must follow when cutting larger
cable. The following procedures outline the V-Block adjustment. This document
is a supplement to the Operating Instructions.
Tools you might need will be: ¼” straight slot screwdriver, 7/16” wrench, a couple
small scraps of MC cable, several feet of MC cable to test-cut with (preferably the
size you will be using).
•Before adjusting the V-Block, mark its location on both sides of the lower
frame, front and rear, to refer to while adjusting. Also mark the center points
where the V-Block contacts the tubes. Unplug the machine, remember—
SAFETY FIRST!!!
•Prop open the spring-loaded hold-downs about ½” with some scraps or
5/16” nuts. Remove the hold-down pads/rods noting the position of the
washers. Take two pieces of MC scrap and put them under each notching
blade.
•Referring to figures 1 and 2, look lengthwise down the V-Block. Figure 1
shows proper adjustment. Figure 2 shows improper adjustment. The
notching blade should be centered on the MC scrap +/- 1/16”.

•If the V-Block requires adjustment, loosen the clamping nuts until you can
move it with a gentle nudge in the direction of the notching blade to center it.
Make note of your reference marks. Also be sure the V-Block remains
centered with the marks you made on the frame tubes. Tighten the clamps
and recheck the adjustment. As you bring the cut-off saw down, make sure
it goes into the center slot without interfering with anything. It may take a
few tries before you get the adjustment correct but the results are worth it.
Don’t overtighten the clamps nor leave them too loose.
•While leaving the hold-downs propped open, raise the cut-off saw to the top
of its travel and unplug it. Plug the machine in and do a nice, slow test cut
on some cable—you may want to clamp the cable with vise-grip pliers in
case it grabs. You are checking to see if the cable is being notched in the
center and that the depth of cut is about the same. Re-adjustment of the V-
Block or extra shimming of the drills is sometimes necessary.
•If you plan on putting the hold-down staples in them, now is the time—
otherwise, re-install the hold-down pads noting proper V-Block and hold-
down tube guide alignment. Leave the cut-off saw up and remove the wire
ties from the trigger.
•Continue to test cut MC cable and adjust the depth of cut, then lower the
cut-off saw and plug it back in and recheck depth of cut by test cutting some
small whips. If adjustments and technique are working, you will not need to
clamp the cable for these test cuts as the hold-downs and notching blade
alignment should prevent grabbing.
•Refer to the Operating Instructions or feel free to call the office if you have
any additional questions…
McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Drive
Deltona, Florida 32738
Visit our Website: www.mccutter.com

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
Correct Notching Blade Rotation
(05/06/05)
A common problem we see is that users set the drill motors to turn in the wrong
direction. Our design has the blades cutting towards the cut-off (circular saw)
blade. This serves to keep the notching blades from “grabbing” the MC cable
as it is cut because they are “pushing” against the cut-off blade. Although
turning, the cut-off blade helps to hold the cable in place. The left-side blade
turns counter-clockwise as you look at it and the drill turns in the “forward”
direction. The right-side blade turns clockwise as you look at it which is the
“reverse” direction”. Refer to illustration 1. Note that the right-side notching
blade uses a left-hand (LH) nut and arbor. The right-side arbor is also pinned
to keep it from spinning off during operation.
Another problem we see is that the notching blades are installed backwards.
Refer to illustrations 2, left-side and 3, right-side. The square parts of the blade
teeth rotate toward the MC cable, not the angled parts. Also note that that the
washers should all be the same thickness to allow for consistency of cuts after
you change blades.
Yet another problem we have seen is that the trigger locks on one or both drills
can pop “off” from rough handling. This is indicated by a lack of a notch from
the affected drill(s) because the drill is not turning. We have seen hold-downs
adjusted well out of range in order to compensate for this. We have even had
machines sent back to us for this reason! Get used to the sound of a properly
operating machine such as the “zinging” sound made by the notching blades
and note when you don’t hear them. If you have trigger locks that tend to pop
off, simply use a wire-tie to hold the trigger “on”.
McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Drive
Deltona, Florida 32738
Visit our Website: www.mccutter.com

MC CABLE CUTTER & PIGTAILER
Notching Blade Illustrations
(05/06/05)
illustration 1:
illustration 2: illustration 3:
McCUTTER, Inc.
1930 N. Kingway Drive
Deltona, Florida 32738
Visit our Website: www.mccutter.com