Micron Wings MINI DELTA V2 User manual

Version 2
Specifications
Wingspan: 46cm
Airframe Bare Weight: 31 grams
Flying Weight:
60 grams (With 750mah battery)
65 grams (With 950mah battery)
Max Flying Weight: 85 grams
Channels: 3 (aileron elevator throttle)
Suggested Receiver: 4Ch Micro
Suggested Motors:
Brushless AP03
Brushless D1103-8,200kv or 10,000kv
Included Components
* Airframe Parts Sheets (Depron)
* Airframe Bracing Parts (Balsa / Ply)
* Wing Rib Sheets (Paulwonia Wood)
* Carbon Struts / Supports
* Control Linkages + Pushrods
* Sandpaper Sheet
* Decal Stickers
Electronics Required
* Micro Receiver (< 2.5 gram)
* Two Micro Servos (5320 / 5330 Servos)
* Brushless Motor / Propeller
* Transmitter
* Battery (500 –950 Mah 1S)
* Battery Charger
Tools / Supplies Required
* Soldering Iron with Fine Tip
* 1.2mm Drill Bit
* Tweesers
* Sanding Block
* Hobby Knife
* Steel ruler (or plastic)
* White PVA Glue or Wood Glue
* UHU Por Expanded Polystyrene Glue (link)
* Blenderm Hinge Tape (Link)
* Modelling Tape (Product Link)
The new Mini Delta V2 is designed for stable long duration
flight at relatively slow speeds. While not being suitable for
aerobatics, this airframe excels in its stability and straight
tracking. Designed with micro FPV setups in mind, this
airframe features two component bays (top and bottom)
which give ample room for large batteries, multiple batteries
and FPV gear.
With a wingspan of just 46cm (18 inches), the Mini Delta is
suitable for outdoor flight in calm conditions with no wind or
indoor stadium flight in the hands of an experienced pilot.
The two videos below cover the complete build process as
set out in this manual. At stages throughout this manual
there are links to the relevant position in the build videos.
Build Video –Part 01
Build Video –Part 02

Included Parts - Your kit includes the following parts.
Depron sheets
Wooden parts sheets Sticker decals and paper reinforcing sheets
Additional parts and fittings

Before You Start
The Mini Delta is supplied as a kit and needs to be constructed. You will need intermediate level
model building skills to complete this kit. You may also require micro soldering skills to solder the
battery leads and motor leads to your chosen receiver.
Suggested RC Gear
The kit does not include any receiver, servos, ESC, motor or propeller. Please see the list below of
suggested parts available from the MicronWings website.
Micro Receiver 2 x 5320 Servos 3 Amp Brushless ESC 500–950mah battery
Brushless AP03 or Brushless 10000 kv 90mm Propeller 1.5mm Prop saver
Control System Configuration
You will need to be able to set up V-Tail / Elevon mixing on your transmitter to fly this aircraft. We
suggest that you test this setup on your transmitter to ensure your transmitter is capable of this
mixing before purchasing. You can test the mixing ability of your transmitter with a standard size
receiver and servos.
Glues
This kit requires foam glue and wood glue.
* Use foam glue for all foam parts, to glue foam and balsa parts together and to glue carbon rods
* Use wood glue to glue all wooden parts together
Recommended Foam Glue –UHU Por Expanded Polystyrene
For most gluing in this kit, we will be bringing the parts together before
allowing the UHU Por glue to dry.

Build Instructions
The sequence of these instructions allows you to work on other parts of the airframe while waiting
for glued previously parts which have been previously glued to dry.
Cut out this piece of foam and insert the balsa wood bulkhead –don’t glue it in.
Then insert the two positioning tubes into the holes as shown (gluing not required)
Apply wood glue to the balsa bulkhead. Use only a
small amount of glue so it doesn’t fill up the holes in
the balsa bulkhead.
Slide the first plywood bulkhead piece over the
positioning tubes and press it down firmly.
Glue in place the 16cm long carbon rods
Apply a thin layer of wood glue all over the bulkhead
and also onto the bottom side of the arms of the
second bulkhead.
Glue the second bulkhead in place as shown and clear
any excess glue from around the edges.
Ensure the carbon wing spars run between the cutout lines.
Secure in place and allow the whole bulkhead to dry.
Apply glue
Cantered
Apply glue
Video Link

Glue the plywood brace to the balsa canopy former
Glue the 2mm plywood brace in place into the balsa base plate and set aside to dry.
Glue the 5320 /5330 servos into the wing ribs (don’t use the servo screws) noting the orientation.
Ensure you have a left and right mirrored set.
Test your radio gear to ensure the servo arm movement is correct.
Cut a bevel into these edges of the control surfaces ensuring you have a left and right pair.
Servo arm toward trailing edge
Mark the ribs as left and right
Up Elevator
Right Aileron
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link

Place a steel ruler on top of the control surface and with the knife blade at a 30 degree angle,
undercut a section from the edge.
Sand a bevel on both sides of the edges of the
control surfaces on all the other edges except
the undercut one. For long straight edges it may
be easier to use the edge of a table to support
the foam as you sand.
For the vertical stabilizers sand a bevel
into all edges except on one side at the
bottom where they will be glued to the wings.
Glue the control horns in place ensuring they are on the same side of the control surface as the
bevel. On this airframe the bevel is on the upper surface of the control surface.
Glue the canopy former into the
canopy side pieces and set aside to dry.
Once dry, also glue the
front piece in place. Ensure
all the pieces are at right
angles and the gap between
the sides is uniform.
30 degrees
Except these edges on one side of the stabilizer
Plywood brace at the back
Video Link
Video Link
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Remove the bulkhead from the Depron foam
sheet and use a hobby knife to carefully
scrape away any glue from the gaps.
Set the bulkhead back down onto the foam
sheet with the positioning tubes in the holes
so it sits flat.
Glue this plywood piece into the slot as shown and then glue the base plate to the bulk head.
Set aside to dry ensuring the base plate is at 90 degrees to the bulkhead.
Note the orientation
Brace is on this side
90 degrees
Glue these parts
together. The odd
shaped part in the
middle.
After the glue has
dried, gently sand a
bevel on the edges.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link

Glue the fiberboard parts to the base hatch
cover. One piece on the bottom of the foam
and one piece on the top as shown here.
Glue these foam supports into the canopy frame.
Glue these balance point supports onto the foam pieces as shown ensuring you have a left
and right set. Use the 50mm long piece 1mm carbon rod to align with the holes.
Build the
display stand
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link

Glue the sides of the fuselage to the base plate as shown.
They will sit flush with bulkhead sides and brace and be on a slight angle.
Glue these foam pieces to the bottom
of the base plate. Because the balsa
wood sides are attached at an angle there will
be a small gap between the sides and the foam
pieces.
If you intend installing an FPV camera you can mount the camera at this stage. We recommend
camera systems similar to the one shown here which weighs 4.5 grams. See the MicronWings
website for more info on this FPV setup.
Glue in place the camera supports. The slot allows you to install the camera without unsoldering.
With the canopy in place check that the canopy
former clears the top of the camera.
Also check if you need to add some packing
under the camera to allow the lens to clear the
balsa part at the front of the canopy.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link

Keep any packing behind these two holes to allow the canopy to slide fully into place.
Secure the FPV transmitter in place under the airframe or cut a slot for it to protrude outside.
Use something with a sharp edge such
as a cutting board and place it flush
with the edge of a table.
Bend the underside fuselage covering along
each half-cut line to an angle of 30 degrees.
Glue the covering in place on the underside of the fuselage working from the front to the back.
The base hatch cover then can be fitted –don’t overtighten the screw.
Packing
Front of canopy
Video Link

Sand a bevel into the sides of
the fuselage sides.
Glue the fuselage sides in place.
Apply glue to the balsa frame and
secure the foam sides in place.
Use a match to scrape off any excess glue from
the exposed balsa areas.
Two canopy covers are supplied in the
kit –one with a hole at the front for an
FPV camera and another without.
Use the one you need for your application and
bend along the half-cut lines as before.
Glue the canopy cover in place starting at the front. Use model masking tape to hold it in place as
it dries. Also glue in place the bulkhead air flange.
Glue the inner foam ribs in place as shown.
With bevel sanded
Clear glue from exposed balsa
Flush top and bottom
with the carbon rod here
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
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The brown sticker paper is applied to the back of the wings to reinforce the foam behind where
the half cuts. Lay the wing sheets out with the side with the half cuts facing down and place the
brown paper on the wing sheets to confirm the position. Mark two points on the wings as shown
as a guide for when sticking the sheets on.
Remove the backing sheets
and stick the paper down
onto the wing sheets using
the two points which you
marked as a guide.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
Mark these two points with a pen

Use some material with a sharp edge
and place flush with the edge of a table.
Bend the sheet down to 60 degrees and
run your fingers along the joint to ensure
it is bent all the way along.
The wing sheets should look like this when the
bending has been completed.
To tighten the bend, gently move the
upper and lower surfaces in opposite
directions to flex each half-cut joint
ensuring each joint opens up at the front.
Re-bend any joints which don’t flex freely.
With the trailing edges brought together the
profile should look a bit like and actual airfoil
shape.
Attach the bottom of the wing as shown
without gluing. Note that the top surface
of the wing has the elongated cutout for
the servo arm in it. Draw a line to mark
where the carbon wing spar runs.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
Passes flush with the
front of this cutout slot.

Apply glue to where the bottom of the wing
joins to the fuselage as well as along the line on
the wing where the carbon spar runs and then
attach the wing. Ensure it is flush with the
fuselage and use some model masking tape to
secure the carbon rod so it passes just in front
of the slot.
Suspend the fuselage off a table so the
wing sits flat. Glue the ribs in place
ensuring they are vertical.
Note that the holes in the ribs
designates the bottom of the rib.
For the end rib, use some model
masking tape to secure it in place and
to hold the foam to the shape of the rib.
Allow to dry.
Check that the wing skin fits correctly
first without using any glue.
work the front of the wing around the ribs and
pull gently on the trailing edge to seat in the
tabs into the fuselage as well as the ribs.
Open the wing up again and work
as before on the edge of a table.
Apply a drop of UHU Por Glue to the
slots in the top of the ribs as well as
to one end of the longer carbon spar.
Insert it into the hole in the foam rib on the
fuselage and seat the carbon rod down into the
slots. Ensure it is flush with the outer surface of
the wing tip rib.
There is enough gap in the fuselage cavity to press the carbon spar in further if it is not flush with
the outer surface of the wing tip rib. Check again that all the ribs are vertical.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
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Apply UHU Por Expanded Polystyrene
glue to the following parts.
Bottom surface trailing edge of the wing first.
Then the foam rib on the fuselage
Then to the fronts and top of each rib
The top of the carbon spar.
As before, gently work the wing’s top surface
into place and clip it over the rib tabs. Ensure it
is seated correctly at the fuselage and the wing
tip.
Note that the wing tip will have a slight upward
deflection in this area. The shape of the wing
tip rib causes this and it is intended to give a
similar effect to washout on the tip of the wing.
Glue the remaining piece of the fuselage
in place. Use a little glue as possible so
it doesn’t squeeze out on the inside of the
fuselage where the canopy needs to slide in.
Also make sure that the triangle shaped
wooden brace is on the outer sides.
Continue with the same procedure for the other wing.
Once fully dry, working on the edge of a table
again, lightly sand the trailing edge of the wing
at a shallow angle. Sand back to the first rib
tab.
Video Link
Video Link
Video Link
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Also give the sides of the canopy a light
sanding –just a few strokes of the
sanding block to smooth off the sides.
Insert the canopy to make sure it fits firmly but
not too tight. Sand more if needed.
If you intend to apply stickers to the
sides of the fuselage then now is a
good time to do this before attaching
the wing tips and control surfaces.
Using a hobby knife to position the stickers is
easier than using your fingers.
Also attach the caution stickers as shown here.
These stickers actually protect the foam from
prop strike when landing if you are using a prop
saver.
Identify where the air dams attach and run
some glue along the line on top and bottom of
the wings and around the front of the wings.
The air dams can be twisted a little to slip them
over the wing and into position.
Look from the front of the wing to ensure they
are straight and wipe off any excess glue.
Video Link
Video Link
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Glue the wing tips in place ensuring they are
flush with the wing surface on the bottom.
Sand again on the bottom edge to
smooth off the wing surface tabs.
Drill out the motor mount holes with
a 1.2mm drill bit to clear out any glue.
Attach the two motor mount spacers to
the upper holes to give the motor
some down-thrust.
Use the 50mm x 1mm carbon rod to locate the
screw hole, apply some glue and slide the
mount spacer down and into place.
Mount your motor and RC gear at this stage
before attaching the control surfaces.
We recommend mounting the ESC and receiver
at the back of the fuselage. Although not
necessary to do so, this image shows an ESC
unit mounted on the bulkhead.
Battery Mounting Space
The maximum battery size which can be
accommodated is 85mm x 29mm x 12mm.
Video Link
Video Link
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Apply hinge tape such as Blenderm Hinge Tape
to the bottom surface of the wing. Remember
that on this model the control surface bevel is
on the top of the control surface.
Bend the tape down with your fingers as
you position the control surface 0.5mm
away from the wing. Then allow the tape
to come in contact with the control surface.
Ensure there is 1mm gap between the control
surface and the wing tips.
Run a piece of model masking tape from the
under-side of control surface onto the wing tip
fin. This sets the bottom edge of the control
surface level with the bottom edge of the fin.
Ensure your trims are set to neutral before
attaching the control linkages.
Flush with bottom
1mm gap
Video Link
Video Link
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Attach this control linkage part which
attaches to the servo arm to the carbon
pushrod. Note how much of the linkage
overlaps with the carbon rod.
A little UHU Por glue will hold them together
while working and also help to form a strong
bond when the heat shrink is shrunk.
Attach in the same way to the
control horn as shown.
Use a heat source such as the tip of a soldering
iron to shrink the heat shrink at the control
horn end.
Measure the amount of movement on your control surfaces. In most cases you will need to
dial down the servo movement.
Do not set your control surfaces to move more than this amount for initial flight testing.
Most important is to set the balance point correctly. These holes in the fuselage are the balance
point. Thread a piece of string or thin wire through these holes and ensure the plane is level with
the battery in place. If not re-position the battery.
Full up elevator only –2mm movement from
neutral at the back of the control surface
Full up elevator and right aileron –4mm movement
from neutral at the back of the control surface
Video Link
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Some Additional Points
* The canopy forms part of the overall airfoil. Don’t fly the plane without the canopy attached.
* If you have the ability to program your ESC it is best to set the breaking function to active to
stop the propeller freewheeling in a glide. This causes excess drag and increases the glide angle.
Videos
Flight Video with slow motion Landings with slow motion
Flight Video 01 Flight Video 02
2S Setup Flight Video FPV Flying
Copyright © MicronWings 2020: All rights reserved.
This manual is for personal use only. No unauthorized copying or digital distributing permitted
without permission from MicronWings.
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