Mitsubishi Electric PUHZ-W50VHA2 5kW Mono Manual

Air Source
Heat Pump
Outdoor units
PUHZ-W50VHA2 5kW Mono
PUHZ-85VAA 8.5kW Mono
PUHZ-W112VAA 11.2kW Mono
PUHZ-HW140VHA2 14kW Mono
Pre-plumbed Cylinders
EHPT15-17-21-25-30X-UKHCW
150,170,210,250 and 300 Litres
Packaged / Combi
EHPT20X-MHCW (200 Litres only)
Installation and Maintenance Manual
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Contents
Freedom Heat Pumps 3
3 Year Guarantee Registration 4
Handover of the System 5
Maintenance 7
Installing the Outdoor Unit 8
Installing the Pre-plumbed Mono Cylinder 9
Schematic of the Pre-plumbed Cylinder 10
Wiring the Pre-plumbed unit 11
Setting Up the Pre-plumbed unit 12
Installing the Packaged Combi indoor unit 13
Heating and Hot Water Systems Packaged Combi 14
Setting Up the Combi Unit 15
Installing a Standalone System 16
Heating and Hot Water Systems Standalone 17
Wiring the Standalone System 18
Setting Up the Standalone System 19
Powering Up ( All Systems ) 20
Advanced Settings 22
What the unit comes with and what you will need 23
Wiring and Power Supply Information 25
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Freedom Heat Pumps
Who are
Freedom Heat
Pumps?
Freedom Heat Pumps is a wholesale distribution company for the
Samsung EHS, Hitachi Yutaki and Mitsubishi Ecodan heat pumps, along
with underfloor heating systems. We offer technical support, training,
design and consultancy services and operate the samsungehs.co.uk and
freedomhp.co.uk web sites and freedom heat pumps and Samsung EHS
Facebook pages.
We launched Samsung’s heating systems in the UK in 2010 and have
been market leaders in this sector with over 7000 units out in the field. In
2016 we started distributing Hitachi’s Yutaki range of modernised units.
In 2019, we took on Mitsubishi’s range of reputable Ecodan units.
How we work
Our approach is very straightforward. If you have a set of plans or an
outline of the requirements for a project, send them on in to
[email protected]. From there, we will produce a heat loss
calculation in line with today’s standards and put together a list of the kit
required at your cost price.
Alternatively, if you don’t currently have a heat pump project, but would
like to become a heat pump installer, and don’t know where to start,
contact us on 02380 274833 or email us at [email protected] and
we can set you on the correct course.
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3 Year Guarantee Registration
Mitsubishi Guarantee Registration 3 – Years
All Ecodan heat pumps can now be registered for a 3-year parts guarantee covering ONLY the Mitsubishi components,
(not radiators, cylinders, UFH, valves, pumps etc.) It is the role of the installer to offer a warranty to the end user
covering the heating system including the heat pump.
All the details are in the homeowner guarantee book. Your installer will leave this with you. You can fill this in and post
it to Mitsubishi or do it online here:
les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/homeowners/register-ecodan-guarantee
Follow the links for warranty and maintenance
The unit is commissioned by the installer, they need to fill in this book and leave it with you.
Leave these pages with the Homeowner
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Handover of the System
Thank You
Thank you for buying a Mitsubishi heat pump system, your
heat pump heats the house and hot water cylinder much
like a normal fossil fuel boiler, however there are a couple of
differences which you should take notice of.
The installer will leave you this homeowner book, its easy to
follow
Your installer should have provided you with a room thermostat if
you have radiators or a thermostat in every room if you have under
floor heating. They will tell you how to use these stats. The heat
pump will run when it gets a run signal from the thermostat. It is not
controlled by the Ecodan remote controller.
To turn on the heating all you need to do is turn up the thermostats,
to turn it off you need to turn them down. The thermostat sends a
run signal to the heat pump.
Once the unit starts up it will take time to get to temperature, it
is not instant. Within 10 minutes you should feel the radiators
beginning to warm up.
Weather compensation
The radiator temperatures will be lower than you are used to
with a gas or oil boiler. To add to this, we run them in a weather
compensation mode, this means that the unit measures the outside
temperature and adjusts the radiator temperature to suit.
The colder it is outside the warmer the rads will be and vice versa.
This function is automatic and is designed to save you money. In
very cold weather the radiator will be at their hottest, they will reach
50°C
Water temp in weather comp mode
Ambient temperature °C
Flow temperature °C
-5
35
55
50
45
40
0 5 10 15
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General Advice
The heat pump comes with a controller which looks like this, you
should not use this or press the buttons, it is used for commissioning
and fault diagnosing the system only.
If the system goes into fault, the screen will show a number The
green light flash. The engineer will want to know this number when
you call.
Please avoid turning the unit off at the power supply especially in
cold weather. If the unit is off and the weather is very cold, it cannot
protect itself and your warranty will be at risk.
Hot Water
The unit it set up to maintain the water between 43 and 50°C all the
time.
As you use the water the heat pump will constantly top up the
cylinder. The hot water cylinder has priority over the heating, if the
cylinder temperature falls 5 degrees below its set point the unit will
automatically switch to heating the cylinder. This should take less
than an hour.
Once set temperature is achieved the unit will go back to heating the
house. The hot water cylinder loses almost no heat (1/3 a degree an
hour) if no hot water is used.
An anti-legionella / disinfection operation will be completed at a 3am
every Wednesday morning. The unit will heat the cylinder with the
immersion to 60°C, the hot water will be hotter on a Wednesday
morning than the rest of the week.
If you don’t require 24/7 hot water It is possible to time clock the hot
water to reduce costs, the timer video on you tube will show you
how to do this.
Running your machine efficiently
It is very expensive to heat the house up from cold, with a heat pump the best advice is to maintain the house at as
close to constant temperature as possible all the time. Please DON’T set the room temperature too low when you leave
the house, ideally drop it 2 degrees below your normal set temperature when you go out or it will take a long time and
a lot of money to recover.
To switch off the heating in summer set the thermostats down to 16°C to avoid the heating starting up. Your radiators
will have thermostatic valves on them, you can adjust each room’s temperature with these.
Handover of the System
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Isolating valves
( 2 off )
Inlet / outlet port
Isolating valve
Sealing washers
( 2 off )
Filter body
Drain valve
(Do not remove)
Cap and key
Filter body cap
Magnet
Air vent
Maintenance of Ecodan Systems
The Ecodan heat pump should be maintained at least once a year to comply with warranty and RHI. You must log your
maintenance here for the 3-year guarantee
Stop the unit, shut the 2 red isolating valves, remove the lid of the TF1 you need the TF1 spanner for this. Clean the
magnet and the filter. Open the valves and start the unit again. Every 3 years you need to disconnect the hoses at the
back of the heat pump and flush the heat exchanger back and forward a couple of times to remove any debris from
the coil.
On Monoblocs test the concentration of the Anti-freeze (glycol) in
the system using a Glycol tester the level should be 25%. If you don’t
have a glycol tester a glycol tester / refractometer can be bought
from your heat pump supplier or online. Refill the unit, pressure
should be 1.5 bar,
We need to test the operation of the unit against the hot water
cylinder. So first we need to draw off 50 litres of water, run a
couple of taps for 5 mins to achieve this. The unit should start up
automatically in hot water mode, if it doesn’t on front screen scroll
left highlight Heating press power to turn this off.
Press power button to switch on the unit, press f4 button, this screen
will appear, press F1 , the unit is now in hot water NOW mode.
To test cylinder and flow temp press menu, operational information
ok, select DHW ok all temperatures are listed.
Log the temperature of the flow, the flow rate, the temperature
of the air as it enters the coil and the temperature of the air in the
garden.
Maintenance
The heat pump should be able to achieve 50C cylinder temperature without using the immersion heater. While
running, check the outdoor unit for damage & debris, the coil needs washing, we recommend you use an approved
heat pump cleaning chemical, your distributor will stock this. Instructions are given on the bottle. You also need to
clean and polish the outside casing we recommend car wax or ACF50 to do this.
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Installing the Outdoor Unit
Installing the Outdoor Unit (boiler)
Position the outdoor unit so that the air flows into an open area,
where there are no plants and animals
Install the outdoor unit on a flat, stable surface, the unit needs to
be securely mounted at least 100mm off the ground on rubber feet.
The unit must be bolted down for security using 10mm bolts and
Zebedee’s.
The space around the unit is very important, allow:
300mm to the left-hand side (facing the front of the unit), 600mm to
the right of the unit, you can mount the unit with only 150mm to the
rear and 1500mm to the front of the unit.
The connections on the back of the units are inch male thread
The unit must have adequate drainage away from the unit; it can
produce up to 6 L / hour of condensate. If you are installing the unit
at height you can install a drain pan under the unit but its best to let
the unit drain into the ground. The unit has an optional extra (not
with the unit) drain fitting available called PAC-SG61DSE
Monobloc Dimensions
Models A (mm) B (mm) C (mm)
50 740 850 175
85 943 950 175
112 1350 1020 210
140 1350 1020 210
300 or more
300 or more
1500 or more
600 or more
B
330 + 30
A
C
600
370
Flow from HP
Boiler Flow
Return to HP
Boiler Return
Heating Return
Heating Flow
G3 kit already installed.
It comes with a white
expansion vessel in the kit
Hot water pump and plate
hex. The cylinder has no coil
inside, the potable water is
pumped through the plate by
this pump. There is also a
de-scaler in line.
Primary pump
pumps water to the
outdoor unit and back
Drain Pipe
Extruded Portion
Drain Boss
Rubber Cap
Drain hole of Base
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Installing the Pre-plumbed Mono Cylinder
Installing the pre-plumbed mono cylinder
When you order the pre-plumbed cylinder, it comes with an FTC, the tank sensor, flow and return sensors and
controller all installed for you.
Install the pre-plumb indoors, it’s not waterproof. It needs to be sited within 15m of the outdoor unit.
Model Type Nominal
Capacity (litres)
Weight of full
unit (kg)
Weight of unit
(kg)
Standing Heat Loss
per day
(kWh/24h)
per year
(kWh/365d)
Standard 150 206 56 1.19 434.4
Standard 170 232 62 1.32 481.8
Standard 210 279 69 1.57 573.1
Standard 250 327 77 1.67 609.6
Standard 300 387 87 1.89 689.9
Solar 210 284 74 1.56 569.4
Solar 250 332 82 1.63 595.0
Solar 300 392 92 1.84 671.6
Slimline 150 204 54 1.45 529.3
Slimline 170 230 60 1.63 595.0
The Pre-plumbed Cylinder
Flow from HP
Boiler Flow
Return to HP
Boiler Return
Heating Return
Heating Flow
G3 kit already installed.
It comes with a white
expansion vessel in the kit
Hot water pump and plate
hex. The cylinder has no coil
inside, the potable water is
pumped through the plate by
this pump. There is also a
de-scaler in line.
Primary pump
pumps water to the
outdoor unit and back
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Heating ow
and return
Z1 Z2
Hot draw off
Cold Feed
If you want to use multi zone heating, we recommend installing zone valves in heating flow as above.
Schematic of the Pre-plumbed Cylinder
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Heating ow
and return
Z1 Z2
Hot draw off
Cold Feed
You only need to do the red bits Run signal is 240V across TBI 13 and 14, run a 3 core from the outdoor to indoor unit, power to the outdoor unit and power for the immersion. The rest is pre-wired. Note the thermostat is low Voltage 240V will kill the pcb .
Wiring the Pre-plumbed unit
Remote controller TBI.3 1-2 2 core flex 0.75mm
The run signal TB1 13 and 14 is NOT 240 Volts it’s a low voltage contact. 240 Volts will damage the pcb.
Hot water Pump
CNP4 red plug
3 port valve
TBO2 4,5 and 6
Flow sensor 3 core
connect to INIA
it’s 2 metres long
Primary flow water
temperature sensor
top grey 1.2m long
Primary return water
temperature sensor
bottom black 1.2m long
Primary Pump HP
TB01 out 1
0.75mm 3 core
Heating Pump Z1
TB01 out 2
0.75mm 3 core
S1 S2 S3L N +
Power supply 240V 20A for the 5kW 25A for 8.5kW 32A for 11.2kW 40A for 14kW
Communication and power cable 3 core 1mm (220V AC) S1 live, S2 neutral S3 comms
Run signal from Stat or zone valves TBI 13 +14
Power Supply for immersion only 13A 2.5mm 3 core
Connect the 2 orange connectors together here if power comes from outdoor unit
Immersion heater in tank 3 core 2.5mm
Tank sensor 1.8m long DON’T Cut
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Setting Up the Pre-plumbed unit
Flushing and Filling
When installing any Heat pump, we insist on a thorough system flush
prior to connection in line with the Building Regulations for England
and Wales, Part L, 2006. Using the power flusher fill the system with
water and 25% Propylene Glycol, there is no pressure sensor in the
unit so we can operate from 0 -3 bar maximum.
Before Power Up
The Outdoor Unit
The outdoor unit does not need any settings made, its ready to go
from the factory.
The FTC5 control box
The FTC5 control box needs the following dip switches set:
• SW1-1 off no boiler
• SW1-2 off max hot water temp to 55c
• SW1-3 on for DHW tank
• SW1-4 on immersion heater
• SW1-7 on for monoblock unit
• SW2-1 off for remote thermostat
• SW2-8 on for flow switch
• SW3-5 on to allow heating
• SW3-7 on plate for HW cylinder
• SW4-1 off deactivate multi controllers
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Installing the Packaged Combi indoor unit
Installing the Packaged Combi indoor
unit (FTC and cylinder unit – EHST20*-
MHCW)
The box contains, hot water cylinder 200l, 3 port valve, filter ball, flow
meter, flow switch, expansion vessel, an 8m pump, cylinder sensor,
FTC5 and the remote controller.
Install the unit indoors, it’s not waterproof. It needs to be sited less
than 15m from the outdoor unit.
The box is 1600 high, 595mm wide, 680mm deep. It weighs 110kg
empty and up to 320kg full.
Note the pump in the unit can only manage a run of 10m at 28mm
diameter copper each way to the header.
Primary circuit is 28mm compression
DHW circuit is 22mm compression
The inlet control group is 15mm compression
Pressure relief valve (Primary circuit) is G1/2 female
T&P relief valve is 15mm compression/ G1/2 female
Combi units need a drain connection for the Robokit and
condensation
287.5
1600
270
1870
Front
Optional part
(PAC-DP01-E)
J - Electrical cable inlets
A – DHW Outlet 22mm compression
B – DHW Cold feed/inlet 22mm compression
D – Space heating flow connection 28mm compression
Pressure relief (Primary circuit)
Air Vent
C - Space heating return connection 28mm compression
F/G - Return to heat pump (For monobloc) 28mm compression
E/H - Flow from heat pump (For monobloc) 28mm compression
46.7
136.7
114.2
91.7
69.2
0
67.8
522.3
462.3
402.3
342.3
127.8
0
552.7 542 0
470.7
510.7
0
Top
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Heating and Hot Water Systems
Packaged Combi
Note there is a pressure relief at the top of the unit for G3, it comes out in 15mm, and don’t forget drain for indoor unit
Heating ow
and return
28mm / compression
Z1 Z2
Header,
Buffer or
Heat
Exchanger
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Setting Up the Combi Unit
Flushing and Filling
When installing any Heat pump, we insist on a thorough system flush
prior to connection in line with the Building Regulations for England
and Wales, Part L, 2006. Using the power flusher fill the system with
water and 25% Propylene Glycol, there is no pressure sensor in the
unit so we can operate from 0 -3 bar maximum.
Before Power Up
The Outdoor Unit
The outdoor unit does not need any settings made, its ready to go
from the factory.
The FTC5 control box
The FTC5 control box needs the following dip switches set:
• SW1-1 off no boiler
• SW1-2 off max hot water temp to 55c
• SW1-3 on for DHW tank
• SW1-4 on immersion heater
• SW1-7 on for monoblock unit
• SW2-1 off for remote thermostat
• SW2-8 on for flow switch
• SW3-5 on to allow heating
• SW3-7 on plate for HW cylinder
• SW4-1 off deactivate multi controllers
Heating ow
and return
28mm / compression
Z1 Z2
Header,
Buffer or
Heat
Exchanger
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Installing a Standalone System
Standalone units
Standalone units are not pre-plumbed, you pipe and wire the whole
system yourself.
When you order the standalone unit, it comes with outdoor unit,
flexi hoses, a TFi1 filter and FTC control box, remote controller and
the tank sensor, flow and return sensors.
Install the control unit indoors, it’s not waterproof.
The control kit comes with a 10m long remote controller cable.
It needs to be sited within 75m of the hot water cylinder (But the
standard tank sensor is 1.8m long) and less than 100m from the
outdoor unit.
The Control Box FTC5
The box is 393mm wide, 422mm high, 87mm deep
Pump Z1
Header,
Buffer or
Heat
Exchanger
Pump HP
THW1
THW2
B
A
Pump Z1
Pump Z2
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Freedom Hp will provide all the components above as a kit. You have to install the temperature sensors on the pipework they are colour coded.
Heating and Hot Water Systems Standalone
Pump Z1
Header,
Buffer or
Heat
Exchanger
Pump HP
THW1
THW2
B
A
Pump Z1
Pump Z2
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Wiring the Standalone System
Hot water Pump
CNP4 red plug
3 port valve
TBO2 4,5 and 6
Flow sensor 3 core
connect to INIA
it’s 2 metres long
Primary flow water
temperature sensor
top grey 1.2m long
Primary return water
temperature sensor
bottom black 1.2m long
Primary Pump HP
TB01 out 1
0.75mm 3 core
Heating Pump Z1
TB01 out 2
0.75mm 3 core
S1 S2 S3L N +
Power supply 240V
20A for the 5kW
25A for 8.5kW
32A for 11.2kW
40A for 14kW
Communication and power
cable 3 core 1mm (220V AC)
S1 live, S2 neutral S3 comms
Run signal from Stat or
zone valves TBI 13 +14
Power Supply for immersion only 13A 2.5mm 3 core
Connect the 2 orange connectors together here if power comes from outdoor unit
Immersion heater in tank 3 core 2.5mm
Tank sensor 1.8m long DON’T Cut
Remote controller TBI.3 1-2 2 core flex 0.75mm
The run signal TB1 13 and 14 is NOT 240 Volts it’s a low voltage contact. 240 Volts will damage the pcb.
Run signal is 240V across TBI 13 and 14, run a 3 core from the outdoor to indoor unit, power to the outdoor unit and power for the immersion. The rest is pre-wired. Note the thermostat is low Voltage 240V will kill the pcb
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Setting Up the Standalone System
Flushing and Filling
When installing any Heat pump, we insist on a thorough system flush
prior to connection in line with the Building Regulations for England
and Wales, Part L, 2006. Using the power flusher fill the system with
water and 25% Propylene Glycol, there is no pressure sensor in the
unit so we can operate from 0 -3 bar maximum.
Before Power Up
The Outdoor Unit
The outdoor unit does not need any settings made, its ready to go
from the factory.
The FTC5 control box
The FTC5 control box needs the following dip switches set:
• SW1-1 off no boiler
• SW1-2 off max hot water temp to 55c
• SW1-3 on for DHW tank
• SW1-4 on immersion heater
• SW1-7 on for monoblock unit
• SW2-1 off for remote thermostat
• SW2-8 on for flow switch
• SW3-5 on to allow heating
• SW3-7 off coil for HW cylinder
• SW4-1 off deactivate multi controllers
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Powering Up ( All Systems )
Remote controller set up first time
1. The controller will say English confirmed,
2. Setting time and date
Set Year + or – press >
Set Month + or – press >
Set Day + or – press >
Set Hour + or – press >
Set Mins + or – press >
confirmed,
3. Press DWH in black will show, press . Make sure its
says Normal and Legionella has a tick by it.
4. Press return
5. Press f3 button > to heating and press
6. It should be set to compensation curve, if not scroll with the F1
button till the graph shows. As a default this is set to 50C flow
temp at –10C ambient and 30C at 30 ambient
If the outdoor unit is off the remote controller will not power up
If the outdoor unit is off the remote controller will not power up.
Makes sure all your room thermostats are off and all underfloor run signals are off. Apply power to outdoor unit first.
Now power the indoor unit, you should see a display on the indoor and outdoor PCB.
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