MLCS Fast-Joint User manual

P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM 1
B
Instruction
Manual
Part # 3470 ver 2.0
Create joints like these with the
Heart Wave
Heart Large KeyArrowheadHalf Blind
ThroughLolli-pop Wave
© Copyright Fast Joint Precision Joinery System 8/2011. All images, copy, and graphics are copyrighted by law
and may not be copied, or reproduced without our express written consent.
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM

2P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Instruction Manual
Introduction
The Fast-joint™ precision joinery system takes a simple approach to making unique woodworking joints. We have done the
layout for you and milled one template for the male side and the matching female template for the opposite side of the joint.
The hardest part about using the Fast-joint™ system is choosing which style template to use. With our Fast-joint™ precision
joinery system you can choose and install templates in a matter of seconds, and once you have made your cut for one side,
simply rotate the jig 180° to the other side, it couldn’t be any easier. Unlike other template jigs you have seen, our jig will
handle 14” stock pieces as well as small hard to handle pieces with an adjustable 3rd hold down toggle. This means the type of
projects you can create are virtually endless. Lets get started making some joints.
But rst - let’s talk about safety.
Read and follow all safety instructions
Caution:
Please read, understand and follow all manufacturers instructions, guidelines and owners manuals that come with
your power tools. Fast Joint™and its subsidiaries assume no liability for accidents or injuries caused by improper
use of this product.
Safety Tips
Creating joints that look like they have been hand cut will add appeal and distinction to any of your projects. To get
the best performance and results out of your Fast-Joint™system, we recommend the following tips:
1. Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection and dress properly. No loose clothing, hair, draw strings
or jewelry that might get caught in moving parts.
2. Keep work area clean. Messy work areas invite injuries.
3. Make deeper or larger cuts in multiple passes and NEVER use dull cutters. Forcing a deep cut in one
pass or using a dull cutter can result in injury. Inspect cutters for damage or chips in carbide.
4. Make sure router bit is properly installed in router and do not exceed the recommended rpm
5. Keep all safety guards in place.
6. Always unplug your tools before changing cutters or making adjustments to the bit or the router.
7. Secure you work. Always use at least two clamps to hold your stock to the jig. Make sure the clamps do
not interfere with the cutters on the under side of the jig.
8. Make sure the jig is clean with no build up or debris for smooth operation.
9. This system is designed for use on router tables only, do not use with a free hand router set-up.
10. Follow all manufacturer safety guidelines provided with you router.
11. Support longer stock properly so that it does not shift or change the position of the jig.
precision joinery system
™
Package Contents
1 Ea. Fast-joint™ aluminum jig platform
3 Ea. toggle clamps
3 Ea. bushings
1 Ea. bushing spring washer
1 Ea. half blind dovetail set
1 Ea. heart template set
1 Ea. key template set
1 Ea. through dovetail tail template
(works with 1/2 blind set)
1 Ea. 3/16” up cut spiral router bit
1 Ea. 14° dovetail router bit
1 Ea. brass centering pin
2 Ea. spring clamps
1 Ea. 3/8” x 3/8” brass set-up bar
1 Ea. right angle fence
2 Ea. abrasive strips
1 Ea. MDF backer board
1 Ea. set up block
All necessary hardware for assembly

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P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
13
1
3
12
2
5
10
11
7
4
15
9
14
6
8
13
17
16
18
19
Part # Part Description Quantity
1 Base Plate 1
2 Position Set-up Block 1
3 Template Alignment Blocks 2
4 Toggle Clamps 3
5 Machine Head Screws 4
6 1” Panhead Screws 8
7 Washers 2
8 Mini - Washers 8
9Lock Washers 4
10 Mini-stud Knobs 2
11 Stamped Non-slip Sandpaper 1
Part # Part Description Quantity
12 T-bolts 4
13 Heart Templates 1 set
14 Star Hole Through Knobs 4
15 Nuts 4
16 Panhead woodscrews 3
17 Non-slip Sandpaper Strip 1
18 Aluminum Angle Fence 1
19 MDF sub-plate 1
Half-Blind Dovetail Template 1 set
Key Template 1 set
Through Dovetail Template 1 set
precision joinery system
™

4P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fast-joint™Assembly
Step 1 - Installing Sandpaper:
Peel the backing off the self adhesive stamped sand-
paper strip (part #11). Place the strip on to one side of
the aluminum base plate (part #1). Align the sandpaper
strip so that the cutouts do not interfere with any of the
pre-drilled holes on the aluminum base plate
(See Fig. 1).
Step 2 - Install Template Alignment Blocks:
First, assemble the rubber feet on to the three toggle
clamps. Using four 1” panhead screws (part #6), four
washers (part #8) , one hold down toggle (part #4)
and one template alignment block (part #3), install
the panhead screws with washers through the toggle
mounting holes and the template alignment block holes
into the base plate (part #1). Make sure the rubber foot
of the toggle faces to the inside of the base plate. Do
not tighten the screws completely, leave some play for
adjustment. Once complete repeat this step on the op-
posite side (See Fig. 2). We have left the eight screws
loose to allow us to square up the jig later.
Step 3 - Installing Star Knobs & T-Bolts:
Install the four T-bolts (part #12) through the holes on
the template alignment blocks and thread the four star
knobs (part #14) on to each respective T-bolt. Do not
completely tighten the star knobs (See Fig. 3).
Step 4 - Squaring of Fast Joint Jig:
In order for the Fast-Joint system to work properly, it
is imperative that the left and right template alignment
blocks are parallel to one another and square to the
base plate. It does not matter what set of templates you
use for this process. In our example we will be using
the Heart template. Place a square against one edge of
the base plate and the other edge of the square against
the left template alignment block, making sure the left
template alignment block of the jig is square to the base
plate (See Fig. 4). Tighten the four screws of the toggle
clamp.
Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
Shop Notes:
The non-slip sandpaper is installed on our jig to mini-
mize movement of the stock. Over time the strip will
have to be replaced. We have installed the template
alignment blocks on top of the non-slip sandpaper for
two reasons: First, once we have squared the jig, it
helps keep the template alignment blocks from mov-
ing. Second, it aligns the stock ush with the top of the
template we are using.

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P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Next, we will be using the MDF sub-plate (part #19) to
align - parallel and square the right hand template align-
ment block on the Fast-joint™ jig. Place the sub-plate
on top of the base plate between the template alignment
blocks. Align the left edge of the MDF sub-plate paral-
lel to the edge of the template alignment block. Adjust
the left toggle foot for the thickness of the MDF sub-
plate. Clamp the MDF sub-plate down to the base plate
using the left toggle clamp (See Fig. 6).
With the MDF sub plate secured in place, Align the
right inside edge of the template alignment block paral-
lel to the edge of the MDF sub-plate and tighten the
four screws on the toggle clamp, securing it to the base
plate (See Fig. 7). Once template alignment block is
fastened, tighten the other two star knobs, securing the
right side of the Heart templates.
Fig.4
Fig.5
Fig.6
Fig.7
Install the template marked female on to the T-bolts so
that the T-bolt head ts into the recess on the bottom of
the template. Make sure the female template is pushed
at against the base plate. Tighten the knob on the left
hand side only. We do not completely tighten the knob
on the right hand side to allow for adjustment to the
right template alignment block later.
Install the template marked male on to the T-bolts so
that the T-bolt head ts into the recess on the bottom of
the template. Make sure the male template is pushed at
against the base plate. Tighten the knob on the left hand
side only (See Fig. 5). We do not completely tighten the
knob on the right hand side to allow for adjustment to
the right template alignment block later.
90°
Align edge
parallel to
alignment
block

6P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Step 5 - Assemble Right Angle Fence
The right angle fence used with female template side of
the jig and is attached to the MDF sub-plate. Peel the
backing off the self adhesive sandpaper strip (part #17).
Place the strip on the outside surface of the aluminum
angle fence (part #18) that does not have pre-drilled
holes (See Fig. 12)
With both the left and right template alignment blocks
fastened to the base plate, unlock the left toggle and re-
move the MDF base plate. Your Fast-joint™jig should
look like the photo below (See Fig. 8).
Using the four machine head screws (part #5) fasten the
toggle to the position set-up block (part #2)
(See Fig. 10).
Temporarily secure the third toggle (mounted) into any
of the threaded holes in base plate, using the two mini
stud knobs (part #10) and washers (part #7)
(See Fig. 11).
Fig.8
Fig.10
Fig.11
Shop Notes:
Once you have fastened the left and right template
alignment blocks to the base plate, the MDF sub-plate
should slide front to back without binding
(See Fig. 9). If it does not slide, this indicates that the
template alignment blocks are not parallel. If so, repeat
adjustment of the templates alignment blocks until the
MDF slides smoothly.
Shop Notes:
The third toggle is used for any stock that is 2” to 12”
wide to prevent lifting and provide even,
solid holding pressure.
Fig.9
MDF sub plate
should slide
smoothly

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P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
It is important that the edge of the MDF sub-plate is
ush with the non-slip sandpaper to prevent the stock
from rocking in the jig. A simple way to do this is to
place the right angle fence on a at surface with the
sandpaper side facing down. Stand the MDF sub-plate
up against the right angle fence, and align the two outer
edges to the right angle fence. Temporarily clamp the
MDF sub-plate and the right angle fence together with
c-clamps (See Fig. 13).
Once secured, remove the two C-clamps and your nal
assembly of the right angle fence and MDF sub-plate
should be ush and look like the photo shown below in
Fig. 15.
Your completed Fast-joint™ jig system and right angle
fence should look like the photograph shown below in
Fig. 16).
With the components clamped together and ush, use
the three pan head screws (part #16) to fasten the right
angle fence to the MDF sub-plate (See Fig. 14).
Fig.12
Fig.13
Fig.14
Fig.16
Fig.15
ush

8P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Router Set-up
Included with your Fast-joint™ system are three dif-
ferent size brass bushings that will t into most router
plates with a 1-1/4” opening with a rabbeted off-set of
1-3/8”. One bushing is marked “standard” (A), which is
used with the 3/16” upcut spiral bit on most of the tem-
plates. The second bushing is marked “tight” (B) which
is used with the 3/16” upcut spiral when you would
like to tighten the joint. The third is marked 7/16” (C),
which is to only be used with the 14°dovetail router
bit. A locking nut (D), spring washer (E) and the brass
centering pin (F) are also included with your system.
(See Fig. 17).
Fig.18
Fig.19
Shop Notes:
In order for the system to work, it is imperative that
your router bits are centered in the brass bushings. If
you do not have your router centered, it will throw the
joint off and possibly allow the cutters to damage the
brass bushings.
Centering Your Router On To The Plate:
Insert the standard bushing into your router plate, next
place the spring washer and locking nut on the under-
side and tighten locking nut securely. With your router
un-plugged, insert the 3/16” upcut spiral router bit and
secure router collet. Raise the router with bit through
the hole in the brass bushing. Using your hand, reach
under the table and spin the router bit slowly, checking
the router bit for alignment (See Fig. 18). The router
bit should have equal spacing all the way around the
inside of the brass bushing. If the router bit is touching
the side of the brass bushing, or is off-set to one side,
you will need to re-align the router to the center of the
router plate and bushing.
To align your router with the center of your brass bush-
ing, your Fast-joint™system comes with a brass center-
ing pin. With the router Un-plugged and the standard
bushing installed on the router plate, loosen the screws
that hold your router plate to your router just enough to
allow for adjustment. Insert brass centering pin through
the bushing into the 1/4” router collet of your router and
tighten router collet. Lower router until the cone on the
brass centering pin contacts the standard bushing evenly
(See Fig. 19). Tighten the screws that hold your router
plate to your router. Your router should now be centered
to the router plate.
Caution
Always make sure router is un-plugged before checking
location to the router bit. Do not try to spin the router
bit by the cutting edge, as this may result in injury. Al-
ways spin the router bit by reaching under the table and
spin the bit from the router collet.
Fig.17
(A) (B) (C) (D) (E) (F)

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P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fig.20
Shop Notes:
You may need to re-drill and re-mount your router to
the router plate if the router and the router bit are too
far off center. Use your centering pin to align the router
plate to the router for re-drilling.
Shop Notes:
Each of the templates that come with the Fast Joint
system are spaced differently. When working on a
project, check your stock width to see if the pattern will
align evenly on both sides of the stock when placed up
against the template alignment block. If the stock is not
equally spaced on both edges, use a spacer block before
starting your cuts.
(refer to "Centering Your Material", page #29)
This is what your Fast-joint™system should look like
when using the 3/16” router bit with Heart templates.
(See Fig. 20).
Caution
DO NOT turn router on with the centering pin in the
router collet. Doing so may result in injury.
Four Sided Box
The type of joint we will be making is referred to as
a half blind joint. Which means, you will only see the
joints on the sides of the box. The front and back of your
box must be made from a minimum of 3/4” stock. The
sides of your box can be made from 1/4” to 3/4”. In the
following example we will be building a 10” square -
four sided box using the heart templates. The front and
back of the box will be made from 3/4” x 10” long stock
using the female template and the sides of the box will
be made from 3/8” x 9-3/4” stock using the male tem-
plate. Use the same species of stock, or for contrast, use a
darker type of wood on the sides of the box and a lighter
type of wood on the front and back of the box.
Stock Preparation
When cutting your joints with the Fast-joint™system,
make sure your stock is at, and that the edge you will be
milling is straight. The unique feature about this system
is, you can cut any length or any width stock. Your Fast-
joint™system will work with the same thickness stock
on both sides of the joint, or use one thickness piece of
stock on one side of the joint and use a different thick-
ness piece of stock on the other side of the joint. You can
even cut angle joints with the Fast-joint™ system. Now
that we have assembled and squared the Fast-joint™ sys-
tem, we are ready to cut some joints. Note: it's a good
idea to make test cuts on sample stock before making
your actual cut.
Set-up the router bit height:
Now we have to set the height of the bit. The bit height
is always set from the thickness of the male stock (sides
of the box). We are using 3/8" thick stock on the sides of
our project, which means the bit needs to be set at a cut-
ting height of 3/8". You can use a ruler to do this, or an
easier way to do this is to use the thickness of your stock
to set the height of the bit. Using your Fast-joint™ system
with the Heart templates installed along with your stan-
dard bushing, 3/16” router bit, and router installed into
your router table, slide your Heart template against the
brass bushing. Place your stock on top of the Fast-joint™
system aligning one edge with the edge of the template.
Raise the bit until it is ush with the top of your stock
and lock the router bit height in place (See Fig. 21).
Fig.21 Bit ush with
top of stock
Shop Notes:
When cutting the sides of our box we subtract 1/4" from
the planned nished size (10") we are making.

10 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Set-up For The Sides of the Box:
Part of what makes the Fast-joint so easy to use is the
machined set-up block. This block allows you to easily
position your stock, to the off-set distance between the
router bit cutting surface and the outer edge of the brass
bushing. We will be making the cuts on the side of our
box rst using the male Heart template on the jig. For this
cut you can place the stock at on either the left side or
the right side of your jig. Place a reference mark on side
edge of the stock ( ). This edge must always be placed
up against the template alignment block for the joint to
align properly. Adjust the rubber feet on the toggles for
the thickness of the stock you are cutting. Your toggle
clamp should produce a slight snap when engaged. If
the toggle is to tight it may cause the jig to ex. If you
are cutting smaller stock, add the third toggle to the jig
and adjust the third toggle for the thickness and width of
stock if needed. With your stock on the jig and your ref-
erence mark facing the template alignment block, place
your gray set-up block with the wide side facing down
on your router table. Slide the block up against the edge
of the male Heart template. While holding the set-up
block against the edge of the Heart template, slide your
stock up against your template alignment block. Next,
slide your stock forward until it contacts the set-up block
and secure the stock in place with toggle clamp.
(See Fig. 22).
Making The Cut:
The rst time you use each style of template, it is per-
fectly normal to cut into the template alignment blocks.
The template alignment blocks are made from a durable
polyethylene plastic, and should last for many projects.
At the point that they no longer provide support, you can
reverse them and use the outer edges or replace them
with new ones. We start our cut approximately 1/4” in
from the inside edge of the template alignment block.
Make sure the router bit is not contacting the surface of
the stock or any part of the Fast-joint jig before turning
on your router. Turn the router on. Firmly grasp the jig
at both ends and slide the jig forward until the template
contacts the bushing (See Fig. 23).
Fig.22
Fig.23
Fig.24
Shop Notes:
Always use a minimum of two clamps when securing
your stock to the jig. This prevents the material from
moving. Not doing so may result in a sloppy joint or
even injury.
Once contact is made, slowly guide the prole of the
template against the bushing and router bit so that your
material is cut in the shape of the template, working from
the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge of your stock.
(See Fig. 24)
Caution
When the rst cut is made into the plastic template
alignment blocks, the router bit may have a tendency to
grab the jig and cut excessively.
template
against
set-up block
stock
against
alignment block
& set-up block

11
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Set-up For The Front & The Back of Box
Now that the sides of our box are complete we need to
cut the front and back. The height of the router bit does
not change for this cut. We will be making the cuts on the
front and back of our box using the female Heart tem-
plate on the jig with the right angle fence. If you were
using the third toggle, you will now remove it from the
jig. Place the right angle fence on to the jig between the
template alignment blocks, with the non-slip abrasive
strip facing the female side of the jig. Adjust the rubber
feet on the toggles for the thickness of the MDF sub-
plate. Your toggle clamp should produce a slight snap
when engaged. If the toggle is to tight it may cause the
jig to ex. Place a reference mark on the side edge of the
stock ( ). This edge must always be placed up against
the template alignment block for the joint to align prop-
erly. Place the front of your box vertically, on the jig,
in front of the right angle fence, with the reference side
against the template alignment block. With your stock
on the jig and your reference mark facing the template
alignment block, place your gray set-up block with the
wide side facing down on your router table. Slide the
block up against the edge of the female Heart template.
While holding the set-up block against the edge of the
Heart template, slide the right angle fence and stock up
against your set-up block until ush. Secure the MDF
sub-plate with toggle clamps (See Fig. 28).
Fig.25
Fig.27
Fig.26
Shop Notes:
Always make sure that no chips or saw dust are caught
between the template and the bushing. If there is any
debris, it may result in poorly tting joints.
Shop Notes:
Always remember to keep the reference mark ( ) you
made against the template alignment block. Failing to
do so may result in un-even joints.
Now that one end of the box is cut, you will now ip
the stock, keeping your reference mark ( ). against the
template alignment block, and following the same in-
structions shown in g. 22.for set-up. Once the stock is
properly set-up and secure in the jig, make the cut (See
Fig. 26). After making this cut, repeat this entire process
on the other side of your box.
Your completed side pieces should resemble the photo-
graph shown in g. 27.
After the rst cut is made, you should make multiple
passes to make sure all the material has been removed,
working from the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge
of your stock. Your nished cut should resemble the pho-
tograph shown below in Fig. 25.

12 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fig.28
Fig.30
Fig.31
Fig.29
Now that the right angle fence is secure, slide the ref-
erence side of the stock against the template alignment
block. Clamp the stock to the right angle fence using the
two spring clamps that came with the Fast-joint™system
(See Fig. 29).
Shop Notes:
If you are cutting long stock, it is recommended to
clamp your stock to the right angle fence using
C-clamps or F-clamps.
Caution
When clamping your stock to the right angle fence,
always make sure that the clamps do not interfere with
the cutters. Doing so may result in damaging your
cutters or even injury.
Making The Cut:
The rst time you use each style of template, it is per-
fectly normal to cut into the template alignment blocks.
The template alignment blocks are made from a durable
polyethylene plastic, and should last for many projects.
At the point that they no longer provide support, you can
reverse them and use the outer edges or replace them
with new ones. We start our cut approximately 1/4” in
from the inside edge of the template alignment block.
Make sure the router bit is not contacting the surface of
the stock or any part of the Fast-joint™jig before turning
on your router. Turn the router on. Firmly grasp the jig
at both ends and slide the jig forward until the template
contacts the bushing (See Fig. 30).
Once contact is made, slowly guide the prole of the
template against the bushing and router bit so that your
material is cut in the shape of the template, working from
the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge of your stock.
(See Fig. 31)
Caution
When the rst cut is made into the plastic template
alignment blocks, the router bit may have a tendency to
grab the jig and cut excessively.
ush
ush
ush

13
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fig.32
Shop Notes:
Always make sure that no chips or saw dust are caught
between the template and the bushing. If there is any
debris, it may result in poorly tting joints.
After the rst cut is made, you should make multiple
passes to make sure all the material has been removed,
working from the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge
of your stock. Your nished cut should resemble the pho-
tograph shown below in Fig. 32.
Shop Notes:
Always remember to keep the reference mark you made
against the template alignment block. Failing to do so
may result in un-even joints.
Now that one end of the box is cut, you will now cut the
opposite end of the stock using the same reference mark.
In order to do this, you will place the opposite end of the
stock vertically on the other side of the jig, in front of the
right angle fence, with the reference ( ) side against the
opposite template alignment block (See Fig. 33a, 33b,
and 33c). The reason why we move to the other side of
the jig, is to have the same entry point on the opposite
side of the stock we are cutting, so that all four sides of
the box will t together properly (See 33c).
Lift
Rotate
Place
Entry
Point
Entry
Point
Fig.33a
Fig.33b
Fig.33c

14 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Once in place following the same instructions shown in
g. 28.for set-up. Once the stock is properly set-up and
secure in the jig, make the cut (See Fig. 34). After mak-
ing this cut, repeat this entire process on the back side of
your box.
Follow these same basic instructions for cutting the
Hearts template, Key template, Heart Wave template,
Large Key template, Lock template, Wave template,
Lolli-pop template, Arrowhead template and Teddy bear
template. The Half-blind dovetails and Through dove-
tails require different instructions which will be outlined
later in this manual.
Fig.34
Fig.35
Fig.36
Your completed front and back pieces should resemble
the photograph shown below in g. 35.
Assemble the box:
Assemble all four sides of the box. Your completed box
should resemble the photograph shown below in Fig. 36.
The joints should have a snug - sliding t. If you have
to force the joint together with a mallet, it may result in
splitting your stock, as well as forcing the glue out of the
joint. To loose of a t may produce wobbling and a week
joint. If satised with the t of your joints, glue, clamp
and nish your project. If your joint needs adjusting see
page #32 "Fast-Joint Tips".

15
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fig.37
Fig.38
Fig.39
Set-up For The Sides of The Box:
Follow the instructions outlined on page #9 starting with
“Set Up Router Bit Height” all the way through to and
including pages #10 & #11 “Making The Cut”. Your two
side pieces should resemble shown below in Fig. 37.
Recessed Style Joint
Recessed style joints are an easy way add depth to the
joint. What some woodworkers like to do with this joint
is, after assembly slightly soften the female side of the
joint with sandpaper to give it a country feel. This style
of joint we will be making is exactly the same as the four
sided box we just made with one exception. When we cut
the front and back pieces of our box, we raise the height
of the router bit. We will be using the Heart templates in
this example, the front and back will be made from 3/4”
stock, the sides will be made from 3/8” stock and will be
recessed into the front and back by 1/4”.
Set-up For The Front & The Back of Box
Now that the sides of our box are complete we need to
cut the front and back. We need to raise the height of the
router bit 1/4”. Your nal height of your router bit should
now be approximately 5/8”. We will be making the cuts
on the front and back of our box using the female Heart
template on the jig with the right angle fence. If you we’re
using the third toggle, you will now remove it from the
jig. Place the right angle fence on to the jig between the
template alignment blocks, with the non-slip abrasive
strip facing the female side of the jig. Adjust the rubber
feet on the toggles for the thickness of the MDF sub-
plate. Your toggle clamp should produce a slight snap
when engaged. If the toggle is to tight it may cause the
jig to ex. Place a reference mark ( ) on the side edge
of the stock. This edge must always be placed up against
the template alignment block for the joint to align prop-
erly. Place the front of your box vertically, on the jig,
in front of the right angle fence, with the reference side
against the template alignment block. With your stock
on the jig and your reference mark facing the template
alignment block, place your gray set-up block with the
wide side facing down on your router table. Slide the
block up against the edge of the Heart template. While
holding the set-up block against the edge of the Heart
template, slide the right angle fence and stock up against
your set-up block until ush. Secure the MDF sub-plate
with toggle clamps (See Fig. 38).
Now that the right angle fence is secure, slide the ref-
erence side of the stock against the template alignment
block. Clamp the stock to the right angle fence using the
two spring clamps that came with the Fast-joint system
(See Fig. 39).
Shop Notes:
If you are cutting long stock, it is recommended to
clamp your stock to the right angle fence using
C-clamps or F-clamps.
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16 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Making The Cut:
With your stock secured in the jig, follow all of the in-
structions outlined on page #12 “Making The Cut” all
the way through to page #13. Your completed front and
back pieces should resemble the photograph shown be-
low in Fig. 40.
Fig.40
Fig.41
Assemble the box:
Assemble all four sides of the box. Your completed box
should resemble the photograph shown below in Fig. 41.
The joints should have a snug - sliding t. If you have
to force the joint together with a mallet, it may result in
splitting your stock, as well as forcing the glue out of the
joint. To loose of a t may produce wobbling and a week
joint. If satised with the t of your joints, glue, clamp
and nish your project. If your joint needs adjusting see
page #32 "Fast-Joint Tips".
Fig.42
Set-up For The Sides of The Box:
Follow the instructions outlined on page #9 starting with
“Set Up Router Bit Height” all the way through and in-
cluding pages #10 & #11 “Making The Cut”. Your two
side pieces should resemble shown below in Fig. 42.
Three Dimensional Joint
Three Dimensional style joints will extend the joint
through the front and back of the box. This will give your
joint a pronounced look. This style of joint we will be
making is exactly the same as the four sided box we just
made with one exception. The front and back of the box
will be made from 1/2” thick stock. We will be using the
Heart templates in this example, the front and back will
be made from 1/2” stock, the sides will be made from
3/8” stock and will be protruding out of the front and
back by 1/4”.
Follow these same basic instructions for cutting the
Hearts template, Key template, Heart Wave template,
Large Key template, Lock template, Wave template,
Lolli-pop template, Arrowhead template and Teddy bear
template.
Set-up For The Front & The Back of Box
Now that the sides of our box are complete we need to
cut the front and back. Follow the instructions outlined
on page #11 starting with “Set-up For The Front and
Back Of The Box” all the way through to and includ-
ing “Making The Cut” on page #12. Your two front and
back pieces should resemble the photograph shown in
Fig. 43.
recessed
1/4"

17
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Fig.44
Assemble the box:
Assemble all four sides of the box. Your completed box
should resemble the photograph shown below in Fig. 44.
The joints should have a snug - sliding t. If you have
to force the joint together with a mallet, it may result in
splitting your stock, as well as forcing the glue out of the
joint. To loose of a t may produce wobbling and a week
joint. If satised with the t of your joints, glue, clamp
and nish your project. If your joint needs adjusting see
page #32 "Fast-Joint Tips".
Fig.45
Set-up For The Male Side of The Joint:
Follow the instructions outlined on page #9 starting with
“Set Up Router Bit Height” all the way through and in-
cluding pages #10 & #11 “Making The Cut”. The male
side of your stock should resemble the photo shown be-
low in Fig. 45.
Set-up For The Female Side of The Joint:
Now that the male side of our joint is complete we need
to cut the female side of the joint. The height of the rout-
er bit does not change for this cut. For this cut you can
place the stock at on either the left side or the right side
of your jig. Place a reference mark ( ) on side edge of
the stock. This edge must always be placed up against the
template alignment block for the joint to align properly.
Adjust the rubber feet on the toggles for the thickness
stock your are cutting. Your toggle clamp should produce
a slight snap when engaged. If the toggle is to tight it
may cause the jig to ex. If you are cutting smaller stock,
add the third toggle to the jig and adjust the third toggle
for the thickness and width of stock if needed. With your
stock on the jig and your reference mark facing the tem-
plate alignment block, place your gray set-up block with
the wide side facing down on your router table. Slide the
End To End Joints
End to end style joints are generally used as a decorative
type of joint. Most woodworkers will use two different
species of wood when making this kind of joint. This
style of joint we will be making is exactly the same pro-
cess as the four sided box we just made with a couple of
exceptions. The rst exception is, both sides of the joint
are made from the same thickness stock. The second ex-
ception is, the female side of the joint is cut laying at
on the jig. We will be using the Heart templates in this
example, both the left and the right side of this joint will
be made from 3/8” stock.
Follow these same basic instructions for cutting the
Hearts template, Key template, Heart Wave template,
Large Key template, Lock template, Wave template,
Lolli-pop template, Arrowhead template and Teddy bear
template.
Shop Notes:
When making a three dimensional cut, the router will
cut into a portion of your MDF sub-plate of the right
angle fence. The MDF sub-plate is a sacricial
component and can be replaced as needed.
Fig.43

18 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
block up against the edge of the female Heart template.
While holding the set-up block against the edge of the
Heart template, slide your stock up against your template
alignment block. Next, slide your stock forward until it
contacts the set-up block and secure in place with toggle
clamp (See Fig. 46).
Fig.46
Fig.48
Fig.47
Follow all of the instructions outlined on pages #10 &
#11 “Making The Cut”. The the female side of your stock
should resemble shown below in Fig. 47.
Assemble The Joint:
Assemble your joint. Your completed end to end joint
should resemble the photograph in Fig. 48. The joints
should have a snug - sliding t. If you have to force the
joint together with a mallet, it may result in splitting
your stock, as well as forcing the glue out of the joint. To
loose of a t may produce wobbling and a week joint. If
satised with the t of your joints, glue, clamp and nish
your project. If your joint needs adjusting see page #32
"Fast-Joint Tips".
Decorative Dental Moulding
The Fast-joint™ is capable of producing all types of dec-
orative types of molding. You can use either the male
template or the female template for this type of molding.
To make this type of cut, the stock is always placed at
on to the platform of the jig, regardless of which tem-
plate you are using. Use the same instructions on page
#10 "Set-up For The Sides Of The Box". Once complet-
ed, simply cut-off the end of your stock with a miter saw
or table saw to the width of molding you desire
(See Fig. 49).
Fig.49
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19
P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Half Blind Dovetail
Cutting dovetails with the Fast-joint™ system couldn't be
easier. A half blind dovetail joint is only visible from one
side and are commonly used for building drawers. We
will be building a 10" x 10" drawer box with the front
and back being made out of 3/4" stock and the sides be-
ing made from 1/2" stock. Install the half blind dovetail /
pin and tail templates on to your jig and secure in place.
You will be using the half blind dovetail / pins template
to make the sides of your drawer. The half blind dovetail
/ tails template will be used to make the front and back
of you drawer. Start by installing the 7/16" bushing on
to your router plate, and secure in place with locking nut
and washer. Next, install the 1/2" - 14°dovetail router
bit into your router and secure the router collet. Place
the 3/8" brass bar on top of your jig, adjust the router
bit height to the top of the brass bar and lock in place
(See Fig. 50). Once you have set-up your bit height, you
should not have to adjust for the matching cuts.
Fig.50
Shop Notes:
An easy rule for adjusting the t of a dovetail joint is;
heighten the bit to tighten the joint, lower the bit to
loosen the joint ( highty - tighty, lower - loosey).
Now that the right angle fence is secure, slide the ref-
erence side of the stock against the template alignment
block. Clamp the stock to the right angle fence using the
two spring clamps that came with the Fast-joint system
(See Fig. 52).
Shop Notes:
If you are cutting long stock, it is recommended to
clamp your stock to the right angle fence using
C-clamps or F-clamps.
Cutting The Pins: (sides of drawer)
We will be making the cuts on the sides of our drawer
rst using the half blind dovetail / pins template on the
jig with the right angle fence. Place the right angle fence
on to the jig between the template alignment blocks, with
the non-slip abrasive strip facing the pin side of the jig.
Adjust the rubber feet on the toggles for the thickness of
the MDF sub-plate. Your toggle clamp should produce a
slight snap when engaged. If the toggle is to tight it may
cause the jig to ex. Place a reference mark on the side
edge of the stock ( ). This edge must always be placed
up against the template alignment block for the joint to
align properly. Place the side of your drawer box verti-
cally, on the jig, in front of the right angle fence, with
the reference side against the template alignment block.
With your stock on the jig and your reference mark fac-
ing the template alignment block, place your gray set-
up block with the wide side facing down on your router
table. Slide the block up against the edge of the half blind
dovetail / pins template. While holding the set-up block
against the edge of the Pins template, slide the right angle
fence and stock up against your set-up block until ush.
Secure the MDF sub-plate with toggle clamps
(See Fig. 51).
Fig.51
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20 P.O. Box 921487
Norcross GA, 30010
PRECISION JOINERY SYSTEM
Caution
When clamping your stock to the right angle fence,
always make sure that the clamps do not interfere with
the cutters. Doing so may result in damaging your
cutters or even injury.
Making The Cut:
The rst time you use each style of template, it is per-
fectly normal to cut into the template alignment blocks.
The template alignment blocks are made from a durable
polyethylene plastic, and should last for many projects.
At the point that they no longer provide support, you can
reverse them and use the outer edges or replace them
with new ones. We start our cut approximately 1/4” in
from the inside edge of the template alignment block.
Make sure the router bit is not contacting the surface of
the stock or any part of the Fast-joint jig before turning
on your router. Turn the router on. Firmly grasp the jig
at both ends and slide the jig forward until the template
contacts the bushing (See Fig. 53).
Once contact is made, slowly guide the prole of the
template against the bushing and router bit so that your
material is cut in the shape of the template, working from
the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge of your stock.
(See Fig. 54)
Caution
When the rst cut is made into the plastic template
alignment blocks, the router bit may have a tendency to
grab the jig and cut excessively.
Shop Notes:
Always make sure that no chips or saw dust are caught
between the template and the bushing. If there is any
debris, it may result in poorly tting joints.
After the rst cut is made, you should make multiple
passes to make sure all the material has been removed,
working from the outer edge of the jig to the inside edge
of your stock. Your cut should resemble the photograph
in Fig. 55.
Fig.53
Fig.52
Fig.54
Fig.55