Modeltech Fun Fighters P-51 ARF User manual
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FEATURES
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Wing Span: 43.3 Inches (1100mm) ●Wing Area: 316 Square Inches (20.4dm2) ●Length: 37.4 Inches (950mm)
Weight RTF: ~3.3 Pounds (~1.4kg) ●Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle ●Engine Required: .20 - .36 Two-Stroke
Radio Required: 4-Channel or More w/4 Standard Ball Bearing Servos
Made in China
● All Wood Construction with Balsa-Sheeted Foam-Core Wing
●Great Flight Characteristics. It's FAST!
● Fiberglass Cowling and Clear Canopy
● Factory-Finished with Multiple Color Schemes Available
● Race-Tested by Reno 300 Racing Class Experts
● Includes Optional Landing Gear
● Accepts a Wide Range of Two-Stroke Engines (.20 - .36)
●Includes High-Quality Hardware
●Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 90 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings
All Contents Copyright © 2006, Global Hobby Distributors
Version 1 February 2007
The Model Tech Fun Fighters P-51 ARF is distributed
exclusively in North America by Global Hobby Distributors
and in the U.K. by YT International
SPECIFICATIONS
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and
preferably at a dedicated R/C ying site. We suggest having a qualied instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its rst ight. Please carefully
read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.
SAFETY WARNING
Get into racing the easy and fast way with the Fun Fighters P-51 ARF from Model Tech. This factory-built airplane is designed to meet
all the Reno 300 Racing Class specications so now you can get into racing without having to build a kit! Build it with landing gear
and have a blast fun ying. Build it without the included landing gear and you're ready for all-out speed. And no matter what engine
size (from .20 to .36) your club prefers, the Fun Fighter P-51 ARF will deliver with speed and great ying characteristics. Before
release, the Model Tech Fun Fighters P-51 ARF has been tested, own, and sorted by Reno 300 Racing Class experts who know
exactly how a plane in this class should perform. Get involved, get your club started with one-design pylon racing, and GO FAST
with the Model Tech Fun Fighters P-51 ARF!
MT3177E-1 Miss America, Red/White/Blue
MT3177E-2 Blue Thunder 351, White/Blue
MT3177E-3 USAAF Old Crow
MT3177E-4 ARC (No covering)
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In the UK
YT International
15 Parkstone Close
Email: enquiries@ytinternational.co.uk
These assembly instructions are designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount
of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the
future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.
●Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You
should nd the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal
is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches
and hassles that you might expect.
●There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you
complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent
you from losing your place.
●Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to
protect the table and to protect the parts.
●Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts
in after you open the accessory bags.
●We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your
time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great ying
airplane.
●If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an
important point or an assembly hint.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. We do not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
In the USA
Global Services
Email: service@globalhobby.net
Check out our support website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will nd public message boards frequented by other Model Tech product owners and
our technical support staff. This is a great place to get quick answers and advice on your new product.
To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer
Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and
other important information about your product as it becomes available.
please see your local
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION..................................... 22
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION ..................................23
LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION .........................................................25
COWLING INSTALLATION ...................................................................26
FINAL ASSEMBLY.................................................................................28
C/G AND BALANCING ..........................................................................29
LATERAL BALANCING .........................................................................30
AIRCRAFT SETUP INFORMATION......................................................30
PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY .....................................................31
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST ..............................................................31
PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET.........................................................35
INTRODUCTION..................................................................................... 2
CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION .................................................2
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS .................................................................. 3
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED .....................................................3
KIT CONTENTS ......................................................................................4
TIPS FROM THE PROS..........................................................................5
WING ASSEMBLY...................................................................................6
WING MOUNTING ..................................................................................9
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL STABILIZER INSTALLATION.............. 11
ENGINE INSTALLATION....................................................................... 14
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION .... 16
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION ...............................20
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This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new airplane.
QTY. 1 Hitec Eclipse 7 FM Radio Control System
QTY. 1 210630 Magnum XL .28ARNV Two-Stroke Engine
QTY. 1 608260 APC 8 x 6 Composite Propeller
QTY. 4 440601 Cirrus CS601 Standard Ball Bearing Servos
There really isn't too much else that you'll need to nish the airplane. Most of the hardware is included, so you'll just need typical
modeling supplies, such as foam rubber to protect your receiver and battery, and fuel tubing.
QTY. 1 115559 Thunderbolt # 3 High-Performance Glow Plug
QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicone Fuel Tubing
QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber
The Fun Fighters P-51 ARF accepts a wide range of two-stroke engines. Anything from a .20 up to a
.36 will work well. The size of engine you choose will generally be dictated by your local club's racing
rules. Otherwise, use an engine that best suites your desired type of ying. For racing we suggest
using a "speed" propeller that matches the particular engine you're using. For example, if using a .32
size engine, an 8 x 7 propeller would be ideal. In general, choose a propeller that will give you more
rpm, therefore more top speed. For general sport ying, use the standard propeller recommended by
your engine manufacturer. We do not recommend using an engine larger than recommended.
To get the most out of the Fun Fighters P-51 ARF, we suggest using a four or more channel
computer radio system. Ideally the transmitter should feature dual rates and exponential
adjustments. Exponential adjustments are strongly recommended if you will be racing
your airplane.
Standard servos can be used on the ight-control surfaces, although we do recommend
using the ball bearing type. For throttle control, a standard non-ball bearing standard servo
can be used. We recommend using Cirrus CS601 Ball Bearing Standard servos.
❑Pencil
❑Rotary Tool with Cutting Disc and Sanding Drum
❑Airplane Stand
❑T-Pins
❑Builder's Triangle
❑Wax Paper
❑220 Grit Sandpaper with Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑Epoxy Mixing Cups
❑Heat-Sealing Iron
❑Heat Gun
❑5 and 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Thin and Thick C/A (Cyanoacrylate)
❑C/A Debonder
❑Formula 560 Canopy Glue
❑# 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
❑2.5mm Hex Wrench
❑5.5mm Nut Driver
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑Electric Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Straight Edge Ruler
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Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin
assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
USING THE CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION ON PAGE 2.
KIT CONTENTS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑(1) Fuselage
❑(1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron
❑(1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron
❑(1) Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
❑(1) Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
❑(2) Landing Gear Wires
❑(1) Tail Wheel Wire with Tail Wheel
❑(2) Wheels
❑(4) Mounting Straps
❑(8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
❑(2) Wheel Spacers
❑(2) Wheel Collars
❑(2) M3 x 5mm Machine Screws
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
❑(2) 3-1/8" (80mm) Threaded Pushrod Wires with 90º Bends
❑(2) Adjustable Control Horns
❑(2) Clevises
❑(2) Snap-Keepers
❑(6) C/A-Style Hinges
❑(2) Hardwood Dowels
❑(2) Plain Pushrod Wires
❑(3) Threaded Pushrod Wires
❑(3) Control Horns with Backplates
❑(3) Clevises
❑(2) Snap-Keepers
❑(4) Heat-Shrink Tubing
❑(9) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
❑(7) C/A-Style Hinges
❑(2) Engine Mounting Beams
❑(4) M3 x 18mm Machine Screws
❑(4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
❑(4) M3 Lock Nuts
❑(4) M3 Blind Nuts
❑(12) M3 Flat Washers
ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
❑(1) 13" (330mm) Pushrod Wire with Z-Bend
❑(1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector Assembly
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❑(1) 190cc Fuel Tank
❑(3) Aluminum Tubing
❑(1) Rubber Stopper
❑(1) Large Metal Plate
❑(1) Small Metal Plate
❑(1) Silicone Fuel Tubing with Clunk
❑(1) M3 x 18mm Machine Screw
❑(1) Wing Joiner
❑(1) Radiator Scoop
❑(1) Aileron Servo Tray
❑(2) Servo Tray Mounting Plates
❑(1) Wing-Screw Doubler
❑(1) M3 x 35mm Machine Screw
❑(1) M3 Flat Washer
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS
❑(1) Cowling
❑(1) Canopy
❑(2) Stabilizer Filler Blocks (Not Pictured)
❑(1) Spinner with Mounting Screws and Adapters
❑(3) M2 x 10mm Washer-Head Wood Screws
MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS
TIPS FROM THE PROS
● The covering material used on your airplane is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity
changes that the covering material on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To
remove any wrinkles that might be visible use a heat-sealing covering iron set to the medium-high temperature setting to reshrink the
covering material.
●During the covering process, sometimes color may smear slightly from the seams. If you see any smeared colors on the covering
material, it can be quickly removed by simply wiping it off with a paper towel and a small amount of acetone.
● Make sure to test-t the parts together before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts t properly before gluing them together.
●When gluing anything that has a smooth surface, it's important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. This
will allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material , unless otherwise specied. Always remove the
covering material from the gluing surfaces prior to gluing the parts together.
●When cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not to
cut down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe.
●We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length
of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the
radio control system.
●Epoxy can be cleaned up before it dries using rubbing alcohol and C/A can be cleaned up before it dries using C/A Debonder.
● When hinging the control surfaces push two T-Pins through the center of each C/A-style hinges. The T-Pins will keep the hinges
square to the hinge line while you are hinging control surfaces.
● If you can't slide the hinges halfway into the hinge slots, use a modeling knife with a #11 blade to cut the hinge slots deeper.
● Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
● To make it easier to install the blind nuts for the motor mounting beams, glue each blind nut to the tip of a dowel using a small dab
of thick C/A. You can then use the dowel to line up the blind nuts with the machine screws.
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WING ASSEMBLY
❑5 and 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Thin C/A
❑C/A Debonder
❑Modeling Knife
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑T-Pins
❑(1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron
❑(1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron
❑(1) Wing Joiner
❑Wax Paper
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑Epoxy Mixing Cups
IMPORTANT The control surfaces are held in place for packaging purposes using extra hinge material. Please discard this
material and use the included C/A-style hinges to hinge the control surfaces.
C/A-style hinges are used to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not
glue these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other than thin C/A
could result in failure of the hinges during ight.
For utter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved
by having the correct hinge gap and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control surface utter which
can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe or loss of control of the airplane.
STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS
❑Cut away the excess covering material from over the precut groove in
the leading edge of the root end of one aileron.
☞Notice that there is a predrilled hole in the groove for the aileron torque
rod wire.
❑Push two T-Pins through the center of three C/A-style hinges.
PRO TIP The T-Pins will keep the hinges square to the hinge line while
you are hinging the aileron.
❑Slide one hinge into each of the three hinge slots in one aileron, making
sure that you push each hinge in up to the T-Pins.
PRO TIP If you can't slide the hinges into the aileron up to the T-Pins, use a modeling knife with a #11 blade to cut the hinge
slots deeper.
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❑Cut away any excess covering material from around the aileron torque
rod wire.
❑Cut out a 1" (25mm) square piece of wax paper, then slide the wax paper
between the torque rod wire and the trailing edge of the wing panel.
☞The wax paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque rod wire to the
trailing edge of the wing.
❑Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the end of the aileron torque rod wire and
into the predrilled hole and the precut groove in the aileron.
❑Push the aileron and its hinges into the corresponding three hinge slots
in the trailing edge of the wing panel, making sure that the torque rod wire
is rmly seated within the groove in the aileron.
❑Remove the T-Pins and push the aileron up against the trailing edge.
There should be no more than a 1/32" (.7mm) wide hinge gap and both the
inner and the outer tips of the aileron should not rub against the wing panel.
❑While holding the aileron tight against the trailing edge, pivot the aileron
down 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge,
then turn the wing panel over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.
❑Allow the C/A and the epoxy to fully cure, then pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges and then repeat
the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron to the other wing panel.
IMPORTANT Check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures by gently pulling on the ailerons. If one or more hinges
feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come loose
during ight.
STEP 2: ALIGNING THE WING PANELS
❑Cut away the excess covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs
of each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" (1.6mm) overlapped so it does not
pull away.
IMPORTANT It's very important to the integrity of the wing center-
section joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs
as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the wing center-section joint
may fail during ight.
❑Locate and draw a vertical centerline on one side of the wing joiner.
IMPORTANT The wing joiner is cut in the shape of a shallow "V". When test-tting the wing joiner into the wing panels in the
next procedure, make sure that the "V" shape is toward the TOP of the wing panels.
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❑ Test-t the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should slide easily into
each wing panel, up to the centerline you drew.
IMPORTANT When the wing joiner is installed, it should not t tightly
into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly loose. This will ensure
that when you glue the wing joiner into place epoxy can get into the joints
between the wing joiner and the wing joiner mounting box. This will ensure
the strongest joint possible.
❑Carefully slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner temporarily
installed (without using glue).
☞ If the wing joiner does not t properly, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the wing joiner, until you are
satised with the t.
❑ While holding the two wing panels together rmly, make sure that the wing panels are lined up at both the leading and trailing
edges, then look carefully at the center-section joint: the wing panels should t together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.
IMPORTANT If the wing panels do not t together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding
block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satised with the t. Remember, when the wing panels are
pushed together, there should be few or no gaps in the center-section joint.
STEP 3: JOINING THE WING PANELS
❑ When satised with the t and alignment, pull the wing panels apart and
remove the wing joiner.
❑ Apply a strip of masking tape to the top and bottom edges of the root rib
of each wing panel.
☞The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting onto the wing
panels when you join them.
❑ Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of 30 minute
epoxy inside the wing joiner mounting box and to only half of the wing joiner.
Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough
epoxy to ll any gaps.
❑ Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to the centerline mark, making sure to install the wing joiner so that the "V" shape is
toward the top of the wing panel. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy
to set up before proceeding.
❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-t both wing panels together again to double-check that they still t together properly, then apply
a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire
surface of BOTH. Make sure to use enough epoxy to ll any gaps.
IMPORTANT It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the wing center-section joint that you apply a generous amount of
epoxy to and the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during ight.
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❑Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away
any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of
masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.
STEP 4: CHECKING THE WING CENTER-SECTION JOINT
❑Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center-section joint. If any gaps are present, mix
a small quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully ll any remaining gaps.
IMPORTANT Do not omit this procedure. The wing panels should t together tightly, but it's possible to have some small gaps
that appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the wing center-section joint as strong as possible, it's important to ll any gaps.
WING MOUNTING
❑30 Minute Epoxy
❑Thick C/A
❑# 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Modeling Knife
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Airplane Stand
❑(1) Fuselage
❑(1) Radiator Scoop
❑(1) Wing-Screw Doubler
❑(1) M3 x35mm Machine Screw
❑(1) M3 Flat Washer
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑Epoxy Mixing Cups
❑Carefully measure and draw a centerline mark on the back edge of the
radiator scoop.
❑Place the radiator scoop on the bottom of the wing and align it. When
aligned properly, the centerline you drew on the back edge of the radiator
scoop should be lined up with the centerline of the wing (the wing glue joint)
and the back edge of the radiator scoop should be even with the trailing edge
of the wing.
❑ When satised with the alignment, hold the radiator scoop rmly in place
and aligned using a couple of pieces of masking tape.
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❑Draw an outline of the radiator scoop onto the bottom of the wing, then
remove the radiator scoop and cut away the covering material from inside
the outline that you drew and from the base of the radiator scoop, too.
IMPORTANT To ensure a strong glue joint, make sure to cut away the
covering material from the gluing surfaces. Do not glue directly to the
covering material, unless otherwise specied.
❑Glue the radiator scoop to the bottom of the wing, using a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Quickly wipe away any excess
epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the radiator scoop in place until the epoxy
fully cures.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the
predrilled wing-screw mounting hole in the leading edge of the wing. The
predrilled hole is located on the centerline of the wing, 1-1/8" (28mm) behind
the leading edge.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the predrilled hole in the wing-
screw doubler.
❑Glue the wing-screw doubler to the bottom of the wing, making sure to
align the predrilled hole in the wing-screw doubler with the predrilled hole in
the wing.
IMPORTANT Before gluing the wing-screw doubler into place in the next procedure, remember to rst cut away the covering
material from the gluing surfaces to ensure a strong glue joint.
❑Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it backward completely, then
push the leading edge down into place.
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❑Align the hole in the wing with the predrilled hole in the wing mounting
plate inside the fuselage, then secure the wing into place, using one M3 x 35mm
machine screw and one 3mm at washer.
☞Don't overtighten the screw. You don't want to crush the wing.
❑5 and 30 Minute Epoxy
❑Thin C/A
❑C/A Debonder
❑Modeling Knife
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Airplane Stand
❑T-Pins
❑(1) Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
❑(1) Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
❑(1) Tail Wheel Wire with Tail Wheel
❑(7) C/A-Style Hinges
❑Builder's Triangle
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑Epoxy Mixing Cups
❑Remove the elevator halves from the stabilizer and set them aside
for now.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two
slots in the middle of the stabilizer. The rst slot is located 5/8" (16mm)
behind the leading edge and the second slot is located 2-3/8" (60mm) behind
the leading edge.
❑Measure and draw a centerline mark on the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
❑Set the stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting platform and push it forward
so that the leading edge of the stabilizer is pushed up against the back edge
of the turtle deck, then line up the centerline you drew on the stabilizer with
the center of the stabilizer mounting platform.
❑With the trailing edge of the stabilizer centered, hold only the trailing edge
of the stabilizer in position, using a T-Pin.
Page 12
IMPORTANT The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay rmly in place and
aligned. The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side.
❑With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to measure the distance
between the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of
the stabilizer until both of these measurements are equal.
☞When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the
stabilizer is square to the wing.
❑ When you're satised that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a T-Pin
to hold the front of the stabilizer rmly in place and aligned.
❑Look from the front of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer.
When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing. If the
stabilizer is not parallel to the wing, you'll need to remove the stabilizer and
sand down the higher side of the stabilizer mounting platform until you're
satised with the alignment.
❑ Once you're satised with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the
bottom of the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage.
When cutting through the covering to remove it in the next procedure, cut with only enough pressure to cut through
only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during ight.
❑Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage, then carefully cut away the
covering material from inside the lines you drew. Cut away the covering
material from the gluing surface on the stabilizer mounting platform, too.
PRO TIP Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down
where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
❑Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces on both the stabilizer and the stabilizer mounting platform.
❑Set the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Quickly
remove any excess epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabilizer in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.
Page 13
❑Set the stabilizer into place and align it. When aligned properly, the back
edge of the stabilizer should be even with the back edge of the fuselage and
the stabilizer should be centered over the fuselage at both the front and the
back. The base of the stabilizer should t rmly against the top of both the
horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage, too. There should not be any gaps
between the two.
❑ When satised with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place at both the
front and the back, using a couple of pieces of masking tape.
IMPORTANT When aligning the vertical stabilizer in the next procedure, you may need to enlarge the two slots in the horizontal
stabilizer slightly to achieve a perfect t. You may also need to trim the base of the vertical stabilizer slightly higher to ensure that
there are no gaps between the base of the vertical stabilizer and the top of the horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage.
❑ When satised with the t and alignment, draw an outline around the
base of the stabilizer onto both the fuselage and the horizontal stabilizer.
❑Cut away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, then glue the
stabilizer into place, using a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. While
the glue is setting up, use a builder's triangle to ensure that the stabilizer is
perpendicular (90º) to the horizontal stabilizer.
❑ Glue one stabilizer ller block to each side of the vertical stabilizer to ll
the gap behind the horizontal stabilizer.
STEP 4: HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES
STEP 5: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL WIRE
❑Hinge the elevator halves, using the same techniques that you used to
hinge the ailerons. Each elevator half is hinged using two hinges. When
hinging the elevator halves, the tip of the elevator halves should be even
with the tips of the stabilizer and there should not be more than a 1/32"
(.7mm) wide hinge gap.
IMPORTANT After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the elevator
halves to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s)
if necessary.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the precut groove in the bottom
of the leading edge of the rudder.
☞Notice that there is a predrilled hole in the groove for the tail wheel wire.
Page 14
ENGINE INSTALLATION
❑(2) Engine Mounting Beams
❑(4) M3 x 18mm Machine Screws
❑(4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
❑(4) M3 Lock Nuts
❑(4) M3 Blind Nuts
❑(12) M3 Flat Washers
❑(1) Spinner with Mounting Screws and Adapters
❑Thick C/A
❑# 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑2.5mm Hex Wrench
❑5.5mm Nut Driver
❑Electric Drill
❑5/64" (2mm) and 1/8" (3mm) Drill Bits
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Airplane Stand
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS
IMPORTANT The engine is mounted upright and rotated approximately thirty degrees off-center. Precut mounting slots in the
rewall are designed to allow the installation of different width engines. If you would like to install your engine in a different conguration,
you will need to ll the precut slots and drill new holes to match your desired engine mounting conguration. Scribe lines have
been etched into the rewall to help you line up the center of your engine's crankshaft.
When the engine is installed, it won't appear to be centered on the rewall. This is normal. The rewall has built-in down-thrust
and right-thrust, so the engine is installed off-center so that the crankshaft will line up with the cowl ring.
❑ Test-t the tail wheel wire into the precut hole and groove in the rudder.
When properly aligned, the tail wheel wire should rest within the groove and
the front edge of the tail wheel wire should be ush with the leading edge of
the rudder. If it's not, you will need to cut the groove slightly deeper.
IMPORTANT Double-check that the tail wheel is lined up with the bottom of the rudder. This will ensure that the tail wheel will track
straight with the rudder. If it's not, remove the tail wheel and bend the tail wheel wire until you're satised with the alignment.
❑ When satised with the t and alignment, remove the tail wheel wire and use 220 grit sandpaper to roughen only the gluing
surfaces of the wire.
❑Glue the tail wheel wire into place, using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
❑Hinge the rudder, using the same techniques that you used to hinge the
elevator halves. The rudder is hinged using three hinges. The top of the
rudder should be even with the top of the stabilizer and there should not
be more than a 1/32" (.7mm) wide hinge gap.
IMPORTANT After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder
to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if
necessary.
Page 15
❑Use a dab of thick C/A to temporarily glue the engine mounting beams
to your engine, making sure that both engine mounting beams are straight
and even.
❑ Line up the engine mounting beams with the precut slots in the rewall
and temporarily install the four M3 x 18mm machine screws, four M3 at
washers and four M3 blind nuts.
❑Carefully center the engine mounting beams over the precut slots and
rmly tighten the four machine screws to draw the blind nuts into the back
of the rewall.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE ENGINE
❑Measure the distance from the to the back of the spinner
backplate. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is
3-7/8" (98mm).
IMPORTANT There are different size spinner adapter rings included that t different crankshaft sizes. Choose the size that ts
your engine's crankshaft, then push the adapter ring rmly into the spinner backplate.
❑Mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting
beams.
❑Remove the engine and drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through
the engine mounting beams at the marks you drew, then enlarge the pilot
holes, using a 1/8" (3mm) diameter drill bit.
IMPORTANT Be careful that you drill the holes straight down and not at an angle.
❑Install the engine onto the engine mounting beams using four M3 x 25mm
socket-cap screws, eight M3 at washers and four M3 lock nuts.
☞ Tighten the socket-cap screws and lock nuts rmly to hold the engine
securely in place.
❑Install the spinner backplate onto your engine's crankshaft, using the propeller washer and nut included with your engine.
PRO TIP To make it easier to install the blind nuts in the next procedure, glue each blind nut to the tip of a dowel using a small
dab of thick C/A. You can then use the dowel to line up the blind nuts with the machine screws.
Page 16
❑(2) Hardwood Dowels
❑(2) Plain Pushrod Wires
❑(3) Threaded Pushrod Wires
❑(3) Control Horns with Backplates
❑(3) Clevises
❑(2) Snap-Keepers
❑(4) Heat-Shrink Tubing
❑(9) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
❑Thin and Thick C/A
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Modeling Knife
❑Electric Drill
❑1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Airplane Stand
❑Masking Tape
❑Heat Gun
❑Install the elevator and rudder servos into the two rear-most servo
mounting holes in the plywood servo tray, making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm)
diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.
IMPORTANT When installed, both servo output shafts must be toward
the of the fuselage.
❑Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto both your elevator and rudder servos, making sure to install the collets with the
anges toward the of the servos.
❑Cut one hardwood dowel to a length on 9-1/4" (235mm).
❑Drill one 5/64" (2mm) diameter hole through the center of the hardwood
dowel, 1" (25mm) in from one end.
❑Drill two 5/64" (2mm) diameter holes through the center of the opposite
end of the hardwood dowel. Position one hole 1" (25mm) in from the end
and the second hole 1-1/8" (28mm) in from the end.
IMPORTANT Drill the two holes perpendicular to the rst hole that you
drilled.
❑Cut a shallow groove from the base of each of the three holes to the ends
of the dowel. The grooves should be just large enough for the pushrod wires
to t rmly into when they are installed.
IMPORTANT The elevator pushrod is assembled slightly differently than what you might be accustomed to. Because of the
narrow diameter of the hardwood dowel, we've elected to drill two staggered mounting holes for the two threaded pushrod wires.
This will allow a more secure hold-fast for the two threaded pushrod wires. Because the two mounting holes are staggered, you'll
also need to remember that when you make the 90º bend in each threaded pushrod wire, that you make one threaded pushrod
wire shorter than the other one so that they both line up evenly when installed.
1" (25mm)
1-1/8" (28mm)
1" (25mm)
Page 17
❑Make a 3/16" (5mm) long 90º bend in one end of the plain pushrod wire.
After bending, the plain pushrod wire should be 5-1/2" (140mm) long.
❑Make a 3/16" (5mm) long 90º bend in the plain end of the two threaded
pushrod wires. After bending, one pushrod wire should be 5-3/8" (137mm)
long and the other pushrod wire should be 5-1/2" (140mm) long.
❑ Test-t and glue the three pushrod wires into the hardwood dowel. When
positioned properly, the 90º bends should t rmly in the holes and the outer
surface of the wires should be ush with the hardwood dowel. The ends of
the two threaded pushrod wires should be even with each other, too.
❑Slide one piece of heat-shrink tubing over each end of the hardwood
dowel and use a heat gun to shrink the heat-shrink tubing tight.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROL HORNS
❑Position and mark the mounting hole locations for one control horn on
the bottom of one elevator half. When aligned properly, the centerline of the
control horn should be 3/8" (10mm) out from the inside edge of the elevator
half (measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be
lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be angled
slightly toward the pushrod exit slot, too, so that it will line up with the elevator
pushrod wire when it's installed.
❑Drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the elevator half for the
control horn mounting screws, then apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into
the pilot holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
☞The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area
stronger.
❑Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 14mm machine
screws, then use wire cutters to cut the machine screws off flush with
the top of the control horn backplate.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to install the control horn onto the other
elevator half.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the elevator pushrod exit slot
in each side of the fuselage. The slots are located 3-3/4" (95mm) in front of
the rudder hinge line and 7/8" (22mm) below the horizontal stabilizer.
5-1/2" (140mm)
5-1/2" (140mm)
5-3/8" (137mm)
Page 18
IMPORTANT To make guiding the pushrod wires through the exit slots easier, gently spread the two pushrod wires into a
shallow "Y" shape.
❑Slide the split elevator pushrod assembly into the fuselage and guide the two threaded pushrod wires out through the elevator
pushrod exit slots.
❑Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator halves
and the stabilizer, to hold both elevator halves centered.
❑Thread one clevis onto each pushrod wire and snap the clevises into the
in the control horns.
❑Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.
❑Enlarge the hole that is 9/16" (14mm) out from the center of the servo
horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
❑Center the elevator servo (the right-side servo), then install the servo
horn onto the servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and pointing
toward the of the fuselage.
❑ With both elevator halves and the servo horn centered, draw a mark on
the elevator pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that you enlarged in the
servo arm.
❑Remove the masking tape and move the elevator halves up and down several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does
not bind. It should operate smoothly in both directions. Both elevator halves should be even with each other and they should both
produce the same amount of control throw throughout the entire up and down deection range, too.
❑Carefully bend the pushrod wire down at a 90º angle at the mark you drew,
then cut off the excess, leaving 5/16" (8mm) of wire beyond the bend.
❑Install the 90º bend in the pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged
in the servo arm, using one snap-keeper, then reinstall the servo horn onto
the elevator servo, making sure that it's centered.
❑Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the
servo.
❑Cut the remaining hardwood dowel to a length of 10-3/4" (273mm), then
assemble the rudder pushrod, using the same techniques that you used to
assemble the elevator pushrod.
IMPORTANT Both pushrod wires should be 5-1/2" (140mm) long and
you should install them perpendicular to each other.
Page 19
❑Install one control horn and backplate onto the right side of the rudder,
using two M2 x 16mm machine screws. When aligned properly, the centerline
of the control horn should be 7/16" (11mm) up from the bottom of the rudder
(measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined
up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the
hinge line, too.
IMPORTANT Don't forget to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the mounting holes to harden the surrounding wood and
make the mounting area stronger.
❑Cut away the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit slot in
right side of the fuselage. The slot is located 2-3/4" (70mm) in front of the
rudder hinge line and 3/4" (19mm) up from the bottom of the fuselage.
❑Slide the rudder pushrod assembly into the fuselage and guide the threaded pushrod wire out through the rudder pushrod
exit slot.
❑Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered.
❑Thread one clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap the clevis into the
in the control horn.
❑Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.
❑Enlarge the hole that is 7/16" (11mm) out from the center of the servo
horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
❑Center the rudder servo, then install the servo horn onto the servo,
making sure that the servo horn is centered and pointing toward the left
side of the fuselage.
❑ With both the rudder and the servo horn centered, draw a mark on the
rudder pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that you enlarged in the
servo arm.
Page 20
❑Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
❑Remove the masking tape and move the rudder right and left several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind. It
should operate smoothly in both directions.
❑Carefully bend the pushrod wire down at a 90º angle at the mark you drew,
then cut off the excess, leaving 5/16" (8mm) of wire beyond the bend.
❑Install the 90º bend in the pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged
in the servo arm, using one snap-keeper, then reinstall the servo horn onto
the rudder servo, making sure that it's centered.
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
❑(1) 13" (330mm) Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑(1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector Assembly
❑Thin C/A
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Modeling Knife
❑Electric Drill
❑1/16" (1.6mm), 5/64" (2mm) and 3/32" (2.3mm) Drill Bits
❑Straight Edge Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Rotary Tool with Sanding Drum
IMPORTANT The rudder pushrod passes close to the wing mounting bulkhead. In some cases it might be necessary to cut a
shallow relief in the edge of the bulkhead so that the pushrod doesn't rub against, or get caught on, the bulkhead.
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVO
❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the anges toward
the of the servo.
❑Install the throttle servo into the plywood servo tray, making sure to drill
1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the servo mounting screws.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. When installed, the servo
output shaft must be toward the same side of the fuselage as your engine's
throttle arm. In most cases, this will be the right side of the fuselage.
❑ Mark the location of the throttle pushrod exit hole on the rewall.
IMPORTANT The throttle pushrod exit hole should be located near the
fuselage side so that it won't interfere with the fuel tank when it's installed.
You should also position the hole as close to the same height as the throttle
arm to prevent having to make excessive bends in the pushrod wire.
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