Modeltech P-5IB Mustang Old Crow User manual
Page 1 Kit Product Number MT3177F
Made in China
66.25 Inches (1680mm) l 785 Square Inches (50.6dm2) l 58 Inches (1473mm)
8.75 Pounds (3.95kg) l 25.6 Ounces/Square Foot (78gr/dm2)
5-Channel or More with Fixed Landing Gear / 6-Channel or More with Optional Retractable Landing Gear
.91 Two-Stroke or 1.20 Four-Stroke l Ailerons, Flaps, Elevator, Rudder, Throttle, and Retracts (Optional)
l Precovered in Scale Colour Scheme with Flat Finish Coat
l Stable, Predictable Flight Characteristics for a Scale Aircraft
l High-Quality, Laser-Cut Parts and Jig-Built Construction
l Dual Aileron and Flap Servos
l Hand-Layed and Prepainted Fiberglass Cowl
l Built-Up Wing Fairings Integral to Fuselage
l High-Quality Hardware Package Includes Fixed Landing Gear Option
l Compatible with Robart Retractable Landing Gear and Oleo Struts
Model Tech Co., Ltd.
Hong Kong
© 2009, Model Tech Co., Ltd.
All Rights Reserved
Version 1 December 2009
Page 2
These assembly instructions are designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new aircraft in the least amount of
time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new aircraft and also learn tips that will help you in the future.
We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.
l Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You
should nd the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal
is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches
and hassles that you might expect.
l There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you
complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent
you from losing your place.
l Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to
protect the table and to protect the parts.
l Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts
in after you open the accessory bags.
l We're all excited to get a new aircraft in the air, but take your
time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great ying
aircraft.
l If you come across this symbol +, it means that this is an
important point or an assembly hint.
This R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open
areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C ying site. We suggest having a qualied instructor carefully inspect your aircraft before its rst
ight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this aircraft, your radio control system and any other components
purchased separately.
Model Tech guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover
any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modication.
In that Model Tech has no control over the nal assembly or material used for nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the nal user-assembled product. By the act of using the nal user-assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
Throttle Control System Installation ........................................22
Elevator Control System Installation ........................................24
Rudder Control System Installation .........................................26
Aileron and Flap Control Systems Installation .......................... 27
Cowl Installation ...................................................................30
Canopy Installation ................................................................31
Fixed Landing Gear Installation ..............................................32
Final Assembly ......................................................................35
C/G and Balancing .................................................................36
Control Throws .....................................................................36
Lateral Balancing ...................................................................36
Preight Check and Safety .....................................................37
Retractable Landing Gear Installation ...................................... 38
Product Evaluation Sheet .......................................................43
Introduction ........................................................................... 2
Safety Warning ...................................................................... 2
Our Guarantee ....................................................................... 2
Our Recommendations ........................................................... 3
Tools and Supplies Required .................................................... 4
A Note About Covering Material - Please Read .......................... 4
Tips From the Pros ................................................................. 4
Kit Contents ........................................................................... 5
Replacement Parts ................................................................. 7
Wing Assembly ...................................................................... 8
Wing Mounting ......................................................................12
Horizontal Stabiliser Installation..............................................14
Vertical Stabiliser Installation ..................................................17
Engine Installation.................................................................19
Fuel Tank Assembly and Installation .......................................21
Page 3
To get the most out of the aircraft, we suggest using a
higher-end digital programmable radio control system, such
as the Airtronics RDS8000 FHSS 2.4GHz radio control system
or the Futaba 7C FASST 2.4GHz radio control system. Either
of these two radio control systems will provide the advanced
features that most iers want for this type of aircraft. If you
plan on ying your aircraft with the stock xed landing gear,
you will need to use a 5-channel or more radio control system. If you plan on installing the optional retractable landing gear, you will
need to use a 6-channel or more radio control system.
For crisp, positive control, we suggest using high-quality, ball bearing servos with a minimum of 70oz/in of torque for the elevator,
rudder, and aps. For the ailerons and throttle, ball bearing standard servos can be used. **The aileron servos must be 1-1/2" (38mm)
tall or shorter to t into the wing.
*The aps require the use of two separate servos that move the same direction. If your radio control system is not capable of mixing
the two ap servos to move the same direction, the use of a Y-Harness with an electronic servo reverser will be necessary.
There really isn't too much else that you'll need to nish your P-51B Mustang "Old Crow" ARF. You'll need a aluminium spinner, a fuel
valve, and a propeller and a glow plug to suit your engine. You'll also need typical modeling supplies, such as fuel tubing and foam rubber.
Although the P-51B Mustang "Old Crow" ARF comes with xed landing gear, the wing panels are set up to accept optional Robart
Air-Control retracts.
The P-51B Mustang "Old Crow" ARF is designed to use either a .91 size two-stroke
engine or a 1.20 size four-stroke engine. The aircraft will y great using any popular
brand of engine within the recommended size range. For the best scale ight performance and sound, we recommend using a
four-stroke engine.
We suggest trying to keep the ready-to-y weight of the aircraft as light as possible. Using an engine that's larger than recommended
will only add extra weight to the aircraft, negating any of the extra power from the larger engine and increasing the wing loading. In
most cases, you'll get better ight performance from a lightweight but powerful engine, than from simply a higher displacement engine.
The engine will be mounted inverted. If you're using a two-stroke engine, you will need to use an after-market inverted mufer unless you
want your engine's stock mufer to hang out the side of the cowl. If you're using a four-stroke engine, your engine's stock mufer can be
rotated to route the exhaust out near the bottom of the cowl for a clean looking installation without the need for an after-market mufer.
l QTY. 1 Magnum XL 1.20RFS Four-Stroke
l QTY. 1 Airtronics RDS8000 FHSS 2.4GHz Radio Control System
l QTY. 4 Airtronics 94162z Ball Bearing High-Torque Servos
l QTY. 3 Airtronics 94322z Ball Bearing Standard Servos**
l QTY. 2 Airtronics 12" (305mm) Servo Extensions for Flaps*
l QTY. 2 Airtronics 24" (610mm) Servo Extensions for Ailerons
Depending on your geographic location, the specic products recommended in this section may or may not be
available to you. In all instances, equivalent products of a different brand can be substituted. Please be sure that the products you
choose are equivalent in size, power output, rating, etc., to those recommended.
l QTY. 1 Robart Retracts # 550RS
l QTY. 1 Robart Oleo Strut Left # 663L
l QTY. 1 Robart Oleo Strut Right # 663R
l QTY. 2 Robart 4" Diamond Tread Wheels # 137
l QTY. 2 Robart Air Control Kit # 188VR
l QTY. 1 Robart Quick Disconnects # 190
l QTY. 1 Airtronics 94091z Micro Servo for Retract Air Valve
l QTY. 1 Magnum 4" (102mm) Aluminium Spinner
l QTY. 1 APC 16 x 6 Composite Propeller
l QTY. 1 Thunderbolt 4-Cycle Glow Plug
l QTY. 1 Magnum Fuel Valve
l QTY. 1 Global Silicone Fuel Tubing
l QTY. 1 Du-Bro 1/4" Foam Rubber
Page 4
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Builder's Triangle
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q Rotary Tool with Cutting Disc and Sanding Drum
q Masking Tape
q Airplane Stand
q Machine Oil or Petroleum Jelly
q T-Pins
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Heat Gun
q Heat Sealing Iron
q 5 Minute and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Thin C/A and Thick C/A
q C/A Debonder
q Thread Locking Compound
q Formula 560 Canopy Glue
q Silicon Sealant
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm Hex Wrenches
q 5.5mm and 7mm Nut Drivers
q Wire Cutters
q Adjustable Wrench
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Modeling Knife
q Scissors
q Electric Drill
q Assorted Drill Bits
The covering material used on your aircraft is iron-on, heat-shrink covering material that is sprayed with a at clear coat. Even
though the covering material is sprayed with a clear coat, you can still heat the covering material to shrink it, as if it didn't have a
clear coat sprayed on it. Just be sure that you use the medium-high temperature setting on your heat-sealing iron, instead of the
high temperature setting.
The at clear coat is fuel proof; however, you must not use any solvents to the clean the airframe, such as acetone. Harsh solvents like
acetone will damage the clear coat nish. The use of rubbing alcohol is okay, as are glass cleaners.
It is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering material on your aircraft may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all
types of heat-shrink covering material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron.
q Plug in and turn on your heat-sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow your heat-sealing iron to heat up for
approximately 5-7 minutes.
q After your heat-sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply your heat-sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering
material. Move your heat-sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering material tightens and the wrinkles disappear.
+ If at any time you are moving your heat-sealing iron over the airframe it feels 'sticky', remove the heat-sealing iron immediately,
turn the temperature dial down and wait about 5 minutes for your heat-sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature.
l For utter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by
having a tight hinge gap [no more than 1/32" (.7mm) wide] and using plenty of glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control
surface utter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
l The radiator scoop is not designed to be glued permanently to the wing. When you install the wing hold-down screws and at washers
to hold the wing in place, they will hold the radiator scoop securely in place.
l When cutting through the covering material to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering material
itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the airframe and cause it to fail during ight.
l Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
l Because the horizontal stabiliser slides into place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabiliser. This will prevent the epoxy
from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabiliser when you slide it into place.
Page 5
Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
q (1) Fuselage with Cockpit Deck
q (1) Right Wing Panel with Flap and Aileron
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Flap and Aileron
q (1) Horizontal Stabiliser with Elevator Halves
q (1) Vertical Stabiliser with Rudder
q (1) Cowl
q (1) Canopy
q (2) Landing Gear Wires
q (2) Landing Gear Mounting Blocks
q (2) Main Gear Wheels
q (2) Landing Gear Door Covers
q (2) Landing Gear Door Cover Mounting Blocks
q (6) Nylon Mounting Straps
q (2) Nylon Spacers
q (2) Wheel Collars with Grub Screws
q (8) M3 x 25mm Wood Screws
q (8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (8) M3 Flat Washers
q (8) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
l If you can't slide the hinges far enough into the control surfaces, use a modeling knife with a #11 blade to cut the hinge slots deeper.
l The precut mounting slots in the rewall are elongated to allow you to mount engines of varying width. To ensure that the engine
lines up with the cowl, it's important that the engine mounts be centred over the precut mounting slots.
l Mark the ends of the silicone fuel tubing 'pressure' and 'pick-up' so that you don't confuse them when it comes time to connect them
to the engine and the fuel valve later on.
l Apply a layer of silicon sealant to the fuel tank opening to prevent exhaust residue from getting inside the fuselage.
l Apply thread locking compound to screws that thread into metal so that they don't loosen during ight.
l To prevent servo extension plugs from pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during ight, secure the plugs together, using a short
piece of 3/8" (10mm) diameter heat-shrink tubing.
l Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into any pilot holes that you drill through balsa or plywood. The C/A will harden the surrounding
wood, making the mounting area stronger and providing a better grip for the screws.
l Apply a thin layer of at black or gray paint to the exposed edges of the balsa wing sheeting around the landing gear wheel wells,
both to seal the bare wood, and to enhance the appearance.
l When you deploy the aps, the aircraft will have a tendency to balloon upward and will require some down elevator trim to
counteract this. We suggest the rst few times that you deploy the aps at altitude until you are familiar with the ight characteristics
of the aircraft with aps down. You may want to program elevator/ap mixing in your transmitter so that the required amount of
down elevator is automatically commanded when you deploy the aps.
Page 6
q (1) 29-1/4" (743mm) Threaded Pushrod Wire with 90º Bend
q (1) Nylon Control Horn with Backplate
q (1) Metal Clevis
q (1) Nylon Snap-Keeper
q (2) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws
q (1) M2 Hex Nut
q (3) C/A-Style Hinges
q (1) 25-3/4" (654mm) Threaded Pushrod Wire with 90º Bend
q (1) 22-1/4" (565mm) Threaded Pushrod Wire with 90º Bend
q (2) Nylon Control Horns with Backplates
q (2) Metal Clevises
q (1) Nylon Snap-Keeper
q (2) Wheel Collars with Grub Screws
q (4) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws
q (2) M2 Hex Nuts
q (4) C/A-Style Hinges
q (2) 3" (76mm) Threaded Pushrod Wires with 90º Bends
q (2) Nylon Control Horns
q (2) Metal Clevises
q (2) Nylon Snap-Keepers
q (4) M2 x 10mm Wood Screws
q (2) M2 Hex Nuts
q (6) Pinned Hinges
q (1) Tail Wheel Wire with Mounting Bracket
q (1) Tail Wheel
q (1) Nylon Spacer
q (1) Wheel Collar with Grub Screw
q (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (2) Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M4 x 35mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M4 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M4 Lock Nuts
q (4) M4 Blind Nuts
q (4) M4 Split Washers
q (8) M4 Flat Washers
q (1) 16-1/2" (420mm) Pushrod Wire with Z-Bend
q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector with Grub Screw
q (1) Knurled Nut
Page 7
q (1) Radiator Scoop
q (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner
q (1) Wing Fairing
q (1) Plywood Engine Mount Support Plate
q (2) M5 x 70mm Machine Screws
q (2) M5 Flat Washers
q (1) 1.5mm Hex Wrench
q (1) Decal Set (Not Pictured)
q (16) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
The following replacement parts are available for purchase. If you need to order replacement parts, we recommend ordering directly
from your local hobby retailer.
q (1) 360cc Fuel Tank
q (3) Aluminium Tubes
q (1) Rubber Stopper
q (1) Metal Plate - Small
q (1) Metal Plate - Large
q (1) Fuel Pick-up (Clunk)
q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing
q (1) Metal Support Ring
q (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw
q (2) 2-5/8" (67mm) Threaded Pushrod Wires with 90º Bends
q (2) Nylon Control Horns
q (2) Metal Clevises
q (2) Nylon Snap-Keepers
q (4) M2 x 10mm Wood Screws
q (2) M2 Hex Nuts
q (6) Hinge Points
Instruction Manual ...................................................................115985
Fuselage with Cockpit Floor .......................................................115986
Wing Panels with Flaps and Ailerons ..........................................115987
Fiberglass Cowl ........................................................................115988
Fiberglass Radiator Scoop .........................................................115989
Wing Fairing (Lower) ................................................................115990
Fixed Landing Gear Set .............................................................115991
Landing Gear Door Covers with Mounts .....................................115992
Tail Wheel Assembly .................................................................115993
Main Gear Wheels ....................................................................115994
Hardware Set ...........................................................................115995
Engine Mount Assembly ............................................................115996
Fuel Tank (360cc) .....................................................................115997
Decal Set .................................................................................115998
Canopy ....................................................................................115999
Stabiliser Set with Elevator Halves and Rudder ...........................116000
Page 8
q 5 Minute and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Modeling Knife
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q (1) Right Wing Panel with Flap and Aileron
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Flap and Aileron
q (6) Pinned Hinges
q (6) Hinge Points
q (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner
q Masking Tape
q Machine Oil or Petroleum Jelly
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
The hinges are NOT glued into place from the factory, they are simply slid into place dry for shipping purposes. You
must glue them into place.
Nylon hinges are used to hinge the ailerons and the aps. These hinges should be glued in with 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy.
For utter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by
having a tight hinge gap [no more than 1/32" (.7mm) wide] and using plenty of epoxy glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control
surface utter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
q Slide one hinge into each of the three hinge slots in the aileron, making
sure that the hinges are centred.
q Mark the outside edges of each of the three hinges onto the aileron.
q Remove each of the hinges and set them aside for now.
q Carefully cut a shallow bevel in the leading edge of the aileron, on both
the top and the bottom of each of the hinge slots, to recess the hinge pivot
points into.
q Test-t each of the hinges into the hinge slots. The hinges should be
centred and the centreline of each of the hinge pivot points should be even
with the leading edge of the aileron.
The centreline of each hinge pivot point must be even with
the leading edge of the aileron so that the correct hinge gap can be achieved
when the aileron is hinged to the wing panel.
Since the hinges are installed along the top of the hinge line, you may need to cut the shallow bevel above the hinge
slot through the top of the aileron. This is normal.
q Remove the aileron, ap, and hinges from the right wing panel. Set the ap and hinge points aside for now.
The ailerons are hinged using the at pinned hinges.
Page 9
q Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue each of the three
hinges into the aileron for now. Make sure that each of the hinges is
centred and that the centreline of each hinge pivot point is even with the
leading edge of the aileron. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
q After the epoxy sets up, push the aileron and hinges into the corresponding
three hinge slots in the trailing edge of the matching wing panel, making sure
that the inboard edge of the aileron is even with the ap cutout in the wing
panel.
q Mark the outside edges of each of the three hinges onto the trailing edge
of the wing panel.
q Carefully cut a shallow bevel in the trailing edge of the wing panel, on
both the top and the bottom of each of the hinge slots, to recess the hinge
pivot points into.
q Apply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the pivot point
of each of the three hinges, then hinge the aileron to the wing panel, using 5
minute epoxy. Make sure that the leading edge of the aileron is pushed rmly
up against the trailing edge of the wing panel. There should be no more than
a 1/32" (.7mm) wide hinge gap and the inboard edge of the aileron should be
even with the ap cutout in the wing panel. Remove any excess epoxy, using a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
q After the epoxy sets up, pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges. If there is any excess dried epoxy on
any of the hinge pivot points, it can be removed by carefully using the tip of a modeling knife to cut or chip it away.
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron to the other wing panel. After the epoxy fully cures, pull gently on both
ailerons to ensure that the hinges hold securely.
q When satised with the t and alignment, remove the hinges from the
aileron, then apply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the
pivot point of each of the three hinges.
The machine oil or petroleum jelly will prevent excess epoxy
from gluing the hinges solid.
Be careful not to get any machine oil or petroleum jelly on the gluing surfaces of the hinges or the epoxy won't stick
securely to the hinges.
q Remove the aileron from the wing panel and set it aside for now.
You may need to cut the bevels above the hinge slots through
the top of the wing panel, so that when the aileron is hinged, the top of
the aileron is ush with the top of the wing panel. Otherwise, the top of the
aileron will be higher than the top of the wing panel.
Page 10
q Each ap is hinged using three hinge-points. Working with the right wing
panel for now, test-t each of the three hinge points into the predrilled holes
in the ap. When positioned properly, the entire pivot point of each hinge
should be above the surface of the ap, and the hinges should be parallel
to the leading edge, so that they pivot straight up and down.
So that the ap will pivot properly when hinged to the wing panel, the entire pivot point of each hinge must be just
above the surface of the ap. If the pivot point of the hinges is pushed down into the the predrilled hole, the ap will not line up
properly when you hinge it to the wing panel.
q Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue each of the three
hinges into the ap for now. Make sure that each of the hinge pivot
points are above the surface of the ap, and that the hinges are parallel
to the leading edge, so that they pivot straight up and down. Remove any
excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy
to set up before proceeding.
q When satised with the t and alignment, remove the hinges from the
ap, then apply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the
pivot point of each of the three hinges.
The machine oil or petroleum jelly will prevent excess epoxy
from gluing the hinges solid.
Be careful not to get any machine oil or petroleum jelly on the gluing surfaces of the hinges or the epoxy won't stick
securely to the hinges.
q When satised with the t and alignment, remove the ap and apply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the
pivot point of each of the three hinges.
q Hinge the ap to the wing panel, using 5 minute epoxy. Make sure that the bottom of the ap is pushed rmly against the trailing
edge of the wing panel and that the gaps between the tips of the ap and the wing panel and the aileron are equal. Remove any excess
epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
q After the epoxy sets up, pivot the ap down, then back up several times to free up the hinges. If there is any excess dried epoxy
on any of the hinge pivot points, it can be removed by carefully using the tip of a modeling knife to cut or chip it away.
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second ap to the other wing panel. After the epoxy fully cures, pull gently on both
aps to ensure that the hinges hold securely.
q After the epoxy sets up, push the ap and hinges into the corresponding
three predrilled holes in the trailing edge of the matching wing panel and
double-check the t and alignment. The bottom of the ap should be pushed
rmly against the trailing edge of the wing panel and the gaps between the
tips of the ap and the wing panel and the aileron should be equal. The bottom
surface of the at should be even with the bottom surface of the wing panel, too.
Page 11
q Cut away the excess covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs of
each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" (1.5mm) overlapped so it does not pull
away later.
It's very important to the integrity of the wing centre-
section joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs
as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the wing centre-section joint may
fail during ight.
q Locate and draw a vertical centreline on one side of the wing joiner.
The wing joiner is cut in the shape of a shallow 'V'. When
test-tting the wing joiner into the wing panels in the next procedure, make
sure that the 'V' shape is toward the of the wing panels.
q Test-t the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should slide easily into each
wing panel, up to the centreline you drew.
When the wing joiner is installed, it should not t tightly
into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly loose. This will ensure
that when you glue the wing joiner into place epoxy can get into the joints
between the wing joiner and the wing joiner mounting box. This will ensure
the strongest joint possible.
q Carefully slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner temporarily
installed (without using glue).
+ If the wing joiner does not t properly, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing
joiner, until you are satised with the t.
q While holding the two wing panels together rmly, make sure that the wing panels are lined up at both the leading and trailing
edges, then look carefully at the center-section joint: the wing panels should t together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.
If the wing panels do not t together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding
block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satised with the t. Remember, when the wing panels are
pushed together, there should be few or no gaps in the centre-section joint.
q When satised with the t and alignment, pull the wing panels apart and
remove the wing joiner.
q Apply a strip of masking tape to the top and the bottom edges of the root
rib of each wing panel.
+ The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting onto the wing
panels when you join them.
Page 12
q Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of 30 minute
epoxy inside the wing joiner mounting box and to only half of the wing joiner.
q Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to the centreline mark, making sure to install the wing joiner so that the 'V' shape is
toward the of the wing panel. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to
set up before proceeding.
q After the epoxy has set up, test-t both wing panels together again to double-check that they still t together properly, then apply
a thin layer of 30 minute epoxy to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and
the . Make sure to use enough epoxy to ll any gaps.
It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the wing centre-section joint that you apply a generous amount of
epoxy to and the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during ight.
q Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away
any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of
masking tape to hold the two wing panels together until the epoxy fully cures.
q Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the centre-section joint. If any gaps are present, mix
a small quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully ll any remaining gaps.
Do not omit this procedure. The wing panels should t together tightly, but it's possible to have some small gaps
that appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the wing centre-section joint as strong as possible, it's important to ll any gaps.
q Formula 560 Canopy Glue
q # 2 Philips Head Screwdriver
q Modeling Knife
q Scissors
q Straight Edge Ruler
q (1) Fuselage with Cockpit Deck
q (1) Radiator Scoop
q (1) Wing Fairing
q (2) M5 x 70mm Machine Screws
q (2) M5 Flat Washers
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Sanding Block
q Masking Tape
q Airplane Stand
q Paper Towels
The radiator scoop is not designed to be glued permanently to the wing. When you install the wing hold-down screws
and at washers to hold the wing in place, they will hold the radiator scoop securely in place.
Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides,
and use enough epoxy to ll any gaps.
Page 13
q Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two
predrilled wing-screw mounting holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The
holes are located 3" (76mm) in front of the trailing edge and 1-5/8" (41mm)
out from the centre-section joint.
q Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it forward completely, then push
the trailing edge down into place.
q Place the radiator scoop onto the wing and align the predrilled holes in the
base of the radiator scoop with the predrilled holes in the wing.
q Cut out the wing fairing along the moulded scribe line, then sand the edges
of the wing fairing smooth, using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block.
q Test-t the wing fairing to the wing. When aligned properly, the base of the
wing fairing should t rmly against the wing, and the curve at the front of
the wing fairing should match the curve on the bottom of the fuselage. There
should also be a 1/16" (1.5mm) gap between the front of the wing fairing and
the fuselage.
q When satised with the t and alignment, glue the wing fairing to the wing, using a thin layer of Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove
any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and hold the wing fairing in place using pieces of masking tape until the glue cures.
Be careful not to get any glue between the wing and the fuselage.
q Slip the two M5 x 70mm machine screws and two M5 at washers through the holes in the radiator scoop and into the wing, then
secure the wing into place by tightening the two machine screws rmly.
Blind nuts have been preinstalled in the fuselage to tighten the machine screws into.
Page 14
q 30 Minute Epoxy
q Thin C/A
q C/A Debonder
q Modeling Knife
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q (1) Horizontal Stabiliser with Elevator Halves q (4) C/A-Style Hinges
q Masking Tape
q Airplane Stand
q T-Pins
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Remove the elevator halves and the hinges from the stabiliser and set them aside for now.
q Cut away the covering material from over each side of the horizontal stabiliser
mounting slot in the fuselage. The stabiliser mounting slot is 3/8" (10mm) tall
and 4-7/8" (124mm) long. The front of stabiliser mounting slot is 8" (203mm)
in front of the back of the fuselage.
q Measure and draw a centreline mark on the top of the trailing edge of the
stabiliser.
q Measure out 5/8" (16mm) from each side of the centreline mark and draw
two marks.
q Slide the stabiliser into the mounting slot and temporarily align the two
outer marks you drew previously with the sides of the fuselage.
q When satised with the alignment, hold the trailing edge of the stabiliser
in position using a T-Pin.
The front of the stabiliser should be able to pivot slightly from side to side and the back should stay rmly in place and
aligned. The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side.
You will use these two outer marks to centre the trailing edge
of the stabiliser with the fuselage.
Page 15
q With the wing panels installed, use a straight edge ruler to measure the
distance between the tips of the stabiliser and the tips of the wing. Pivot the
front of the stabiliser until both of these measurements are equal.
+ When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the
stabiliser is square to the wing.
q When you're satised that the stabiliser is square to the wing, use a T-Pin
to hold the front of the stabiliser rmly in place and aligned.
q Look from the front of the aircraft at both the wing and the stabiliser. When
aligned properly, the stabiliser should be parallel to the wing.
+ If the stabiliser is not parallel to the wing, remove the stabiliser and sand
down the higher side of the stabiliser mounting slot until you're satised with
the alignment.
When cutting through the covering material to remove it in the next procedure, cut with only enough pressure to cut
through only the covering material itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabiliser and cause it to fail during ight.
q Remove the stabiliser from the fuselage, then carefully cut away the
covering material from inside the lines you drew.
Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up
and wrinkling.
q When satised with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the stabiliser
where it meets the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.
A A-1
BB-1
Page 16
q To make it less messy during installation, apply masking tape to the fuselage
around the side of the mounting slot that the stabiliser will slide into and to
the top and the bottom of the corresponding side of the stabiliser, too.
q Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to gluing surfaces of the stabiliser, then push the stabiliser
into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Quickly remove any excess
epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabiliser in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.
q After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the T-Pins and masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps between
the stabiliser and the fuselage, ll them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength.
Because the stabiliser slides into place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabiliser. This will prevent the epoxy
from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabiliser when you slide it into place.
The hinges are NOT glued into place from the factory, they are simply slid into place dry for shipping purposes. You
must glue them into place.
C/A-style hinges are used to hinge the elevator halves. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not glue
these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other than thin C/A could result
in failure of the hinges during ight.
For utter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by
having a tight hinge gap [no more than 1/32" (.7mm) wide] and using plenty of epoxy glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control
surface utter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.
q Push two T-Pins through the centre of two C/A-style hinges.
The T-Pins will keep the hinges square to the hinge line while
you are hinging the elevator half.
q Slide one hinge into each of the two hinge slots in one elevator half, making
sure that you push each hinge in up to the T-Pins.
If you can't slide the hinges into the elevator half up to the T-Pins,
use a modeling knife with a #11 blade to cut the hinge slots deeper.
q Push the elevator half and hinges into the corresponding two hinge slots
in the trailing edge of the stabiliser.
Page 17
q Remove the T-pins and push the elevator half tightly against the stabiliser,
making sure that the tip of the elevator is even with the tip of the stabiliser.
q While holding the elevator half tightly against the stabiliser, pivot the elevator
half down 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each
hinge, then turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.
q Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the elevator half up and down several times to free up the hinges. When done,
repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second elevator half to the other side of the stabiliser.
Check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures by gently pulling on the elevator halves. If one or more
hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come
loose during ight.
q 5 Minute and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Thin C/A
q C/A Debonder
q Modeling Knife
q Electric Drill
q 3/32" (2.25mm) Drill Bit
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q (1) Vertical Stabiliser with Rudder
q (1) Tail Wheel Wire with Mounting Bracket
q (1) Tail Wheel
q (1) Nylon Spacer
q (1) Wheel Collar with Grub Screw
q (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (3) C/A-Style Hinges
q (1) 1.5mm Hex Wrench
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Masking Tape
q Airplane Stand
q Paper Towels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Remove the rudder and the hinges from the stabiliser and set them aside for now.
q Cut away the covering material from over the vertical stabiliser mounting
slot in the top and along the back of the fuselage. The stabiliser mounting slot
is 3/8" (10mm) wide and 5-3/4" (146mm) long.
q Push the stabiliser down into the mounting slot and align it. The stabiliser
should be pushed down rmly and the rudder post should be ush with the
back of the fuselage.
q When satised with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the stabiliser
where it meets the top of the fuselage.
Page 18
q Remove the stabiliser and carefully cut away the covering material from
below the lines you drew. Cut away the covering material from both sides of
the rudder post and from the front of the rudder post, too.
q Glue the stabiliser into place, using 30 minute epoxy. Double-check the alignment once more before the epoxy sets up, then wipe
away any excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabiliser in place until the epoxy has fully cured.
q Carefully drill a 3/32" (2.25mm) diameter hole into the leading edge of
the rudder. Position the hole 1-1/8" (29mm) up from the bottom of the rudder
and drill the hole 3/4" (19mm) into the rudder.
q Cut a slot in the leading edge of the rudder from the base of the hole to
the bottom of the rudder, large enough to t the tail wheel wire into.
The slot should be deep enough so that when the tail wheel wire is installed, the front edge of the tail wheel wire
is ush with the leading edge of the rudder.
q Test-t and glue the tail wheel wire into the rudder, using a generous amount
of 5 minute epoxy. Be careful not to get any epoxy between the tail wheel wire
and the mounting bracket.
Remember to roughen the gluing surfaces of the tail wheel
wire to ensure a strong glue joint.
q Hinge the rudder to the vertical stabiliser, using the same techniques that
you used to hinge the two elevator halves to the horizontal stabiliser. The rudder
is hinged using three hinges. When hinging the rudder, the top of the rudder
should be even with the top of the vertical stabiliser and there should not
be more than a 1/32" (.7mm) wide hinge gap.
After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder to
check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.
Be careful to drill the hole perpendicular to the leading edge.
Page 19
q Mount the tail wheel bracket to the bottom of the fuselage, using three
M3 x 12mm wood screws, making sure to rst drill three 5/64" (2mm) diameter
pilot holes for the wood screws.
q Slide the nylon spacer onto the axle, followed by the tail wheel.
q Secure the tail wheel to the axle, using the wheel collar and grub screw.
After tightening the grub screw, make sure that the tail wheel spins freely.
q Thick C/A
q 3mm Hex Wrench
q 7mm Nut Driver
q Electric Drill
q (2) Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M4 x 35mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M4 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (4) M4 Lock Nuts
q (4) M4 Blind Nuts
q (4) M4 Split Washers
q (8) M4 Flat Washers
q 1/8" (3mm) and 5/32" (3.75mm) Drill Bits
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pencil
q Airplane Stand
The following procedures outline the installation of a four-stroke engine. If you are installing a two-stroke engine, the
installation procedures are the same. The Magnum XL 1.20RFS engine is shown.
q Remove the mufer assembly from your engine, then install your spinner
backplate (not included) onto the crankshaft, using the propeller washer and
nut included with your engine.
q Push the wheel collar that's preinstalled on the tail wheel wire against the
tail wheel mounting bracket, then tighten the grub to lock the wheel collar
in place.
Page 20
q Line up the engine mounting beams over the precut slots in the rewall
and temporarily install the four M4 x 25mm socket-cap screws, four M4 split
washers, four M4 at washers and four M4 blind nuts.
q Carefully centre the engine mounting beams over the precut slots and rmly
tighten the four socket-cap screws to draw the blind nuts into the back of
the rewall.
The precut mounting slots in the rewall are elongated to allow you to mount engines of varying width. To ensure
that the engine lines up with the cowl, it's important that the engine mounts be centred over the precut mounting slots. Note that
the engine is mounted inverted.
q Set your engine onto the engine mounting beams, then measure the
distance from the rewall to the back of the spinner backplate. Adjust the
depth of the engine so that the measurement is 6" (152mm).
q Mark the locations of the four engine mounting holes onto the engine
mounting beams.
q Remove the engine and drill 3/32" (2.25mm) diameter pilot holes through
the engine mounting beams at the marks you drew, then enlarge the pilot
holes, using a 5/32" (3.75mm) diameter drill bit.
q Install the engine onto the engine mounting beams, using four M4 x 35mm
socket-cap screws, four M4 at washers and four M4 lock nuts.
q Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your engine's mounting
lugs, using a couple of drops of thick C/A.
The location of the engine is not important at this time. It's more important that the beams are square to the mounting lugs.
q Pop the engine loose from the engine mounting beams and clean off any excess glue that was used to tack-glue the engine mounting
beams to your engine's mounting lugs.
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