Musicmaker’s Kits 17/16 User manual

17/16 Cedar
Hammered Dulcimer kit
Musicmaker’s Kits
P.O. Box 2117
Stillwater MN 55082
[phone] [email protected]

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17/16 SIZE
CEDAR HAMMERED DULCIMER KIT
Parts List:
a) 1 back (1/4" plywood)
b) 1 soundboard/top (cedar)
c) 2 pinblocks (laminated maple)
d) 1 long front rail (laminated maple)
e) 1 shorter back rail (lam. maple)
f) 2 inner braces (hardwood)
g) 2 bridges (maple)
h) 1 tone bar (hardwood)
i) 1 bridge support brace
Hardware:
2 black delrin rods (21" each)
2 brass tubes, 3/8" dia (21" each)
66 tuning pins
33 rh 1" wood screws (hitch pins)
Music wire
♦20 ft of .016" diameter
♦50 ft of .018" “
♦50 ft of .020" “
♦100 ft of .022" “
1 tuning wrench
4 wood screws, 1-1/4"
4 maple plugs, 3/8" dia
1 drill bit, 3/16"
1 drill bit, 9/64"
1 pair playing hammers
1 assembly instructions &
tuning chart on transparency
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Please take the time to check over the parts of our kit now, to make sure everything is there. If you
discover a problem, call us right away so we can rectify it quickly without causing you much delay
in your project. We also suggest skimming through the entire directions before beginning, just to
get an overview of the project. You may decide that you need to gather more tools or purchase a few
optional decorations or accessories to enhance the finished instrument. Now is a good time to
decide so you can avoid delays when you reach those steps of construction.

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
THE FRAME
_____1. Test fit the four frame parts together (two pinblocks and long and short rails)
without glue to see how they fit. The two rails should be pre-drilled with a 3/8"
countersink for the wood screws. Make sure these countersunk holes face outward.
Position the frame pieces on top of the Back panel and check to see that the
corner joints fit tightly. Make minor adjustments to the ends of the rail pieces if
necessary.
ANOTE ABOUT GLUE
DO NOT ASSEMBLE THIS PROJECT WITH EPOXY OR SUPERGLUE OR HOT MELT GLUE!
Find a good woodworking glue. Many luthiers (guitar & violin makers) still use the natural hide glues that
have been around for centuries, carrying on a fine old tradition, but that does not mean that you must do the
same. We build this instrument with modern woodworking adhesives (such as Elmer's Carpenter's Wood
Glue or Titebond) because they hold the parts even more securely than the old hide glues. The few
advantages that some people claim with hide glue are more than offset by the strength, durability, ease of
application, and availability of the modern woodworking adhesives.
When gluing parts together, be sure to put enough glue on the joint to wet the entire surfaces to be joined. A
good sign of proper gluing is that a little excess will squeeze out around the joint when clamping pressure is
applied. Too little glue may cause the parts to separate later, whereas too much glue makes things messy.
We always keep a damp rag handy for quick cleanup, as necessary. It is especially helpful to keep your
fingers clean while gluing, because gluey fingerprints have the embarrassing tendency to appear on the
finished product in places you never expected. Most woodworking adhesives "set" sufficiently after 30
minutes of clamping to allow you to proceed. Check your dispenser for recommended drying times.
PRELIMINARY CAUTION
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE CEDAR SOUNDBOARD IN THIS KIT. IT IS
VERY SOFT AND SUSCEPTIBLE TO DENTS AND SCRATCHES. STORE IT IN A SAFE
PLACE UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO GLUE IT IN PLACE.

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_____2. Use a 7/64" drill bit (not provided) to drill a pilot
hole into each end of the pinblocks to make it easier to
screw the rails to the pinblocks. Drill through the holes
already located in the RAILS, making sure the parts are
perfectly aligned as you drill. Note the slight angle of
the holes -- that will help pull the joints tightly together.
_____3. It is also a good idea to open up the holes in the
RAILS so the screws slip through easily. Use the 9/64”
bit provided to make the holes larger in the RAILS only,
not the pilot holes you just drilled in the PINBLOCKS.
When pilot holes are drilled, and you are satisfied with
the fit of the parts, go ahead and assemble them
permanently with glue and screws. The screws serve as
clamps to draw the parts together, but the real strength lies in the glue joint. Use enough
glue so that some of it squeezes out of the joint when the parts are drawn together (put wax
paper under each corner so as to avoid gluing the frame to your work table).
IMPORTANT: Hold the frame over the BACK PANEL to make sure it is symmetrical and fits
properly on the BACK. Force the joints into symmetry, if necessary, before the glue dries.
THE BACK
_____4. Find yourself a good collection of c-clamps or heavy weights (cement blocks or
bricks). It pays to be prepared for this gluing step, as the strength of your hammered
dulcimer depends on how firmly you glue it together! The back forms a critical part of the
structure of this instrument, so take care to clamp it well all the way around the frame.
NOTE: look carefully at all the joints of the dulcimer frame, and clean up any glue blobs that
would interfere with a good fit of the back. Also smooth out any
unevenness of wood at the joints.
When you are satisfied
with the fit, go ahead and glue the back to the frame, using plenty of clamps and/or
weights to hold the parts together.
CAUTION
The BACK piece has a
good face and a bad
one. We have
punched little marks
into the bad face
when trimming the
wood to match our
pattern. You’ll want
to have that face on
the inside of the
instrument so you
won’t see those
punch marks on the
finished instrument.

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INNER BRACING
_____5. The two INNER BRACES are cut with a slope at each end. The function of
these braces is simply to support the TONE BAR, which, in turn, supports the middle
of the SOUNDBOARD. These BRACES do not need to touch the PINBLOCKS. Measure
the distance shown from the long FRONT RAIL to determine the proper placement,
then glue them to the BACK, using heavy weights and/or clamps until dry.
_____6. When the INNER BRACES are dry, position the TONE BAR on top of them.
Orient it at an angle to the centerline of the instrument, as shown. The TONE BAR
should overhang the two BRACES equally. Mark its position on the BRACES so you
can glue it down accurately with weights or clamps holding it until dry.
_____7. One
more BRIDGE
SUPPORT is
needed for the
internal
bracing. This
block should
glued to the
BACK and the
REAR RAIL, as
shown, so it
stands the
same height as
the PINBLOCKS.

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THE SOUNDBOARD
_____7. While waiting for the frame to dry, you can work on the soundboard, taking
care not to dent or scratch it.
There are two punch marks in the middle of the SOUNDBOARD that show the
correct location for the center of the soundholes (they are centered between the
bridges). The size and shape may vary to suit your design ideas, but please do not
make holes that are larger than 3" in any direction, as that will weaken the
soundboard too much.
Our MUSICMAKER'S catalog shows a number of decorative laser-cut rosettes
that look nice on a hammered dulcimer. We usually cut holes of 2-1/8" diameter,
and then glue a medium size rosette (2-3/8" dia) over the top of the hole. No need to
inlay them flush with the soundboard - the rosettes will not interfere with the
strings.
If you have a large (2" diameter or more) forstner drill bit or a hole saw, you can
bore very nice soundholes with that, as long as it is sharp, but do not attempt to drill
with a spade bit or any bit that is not perfectly sharp, as the soft cedar will crumble
and split when abused.
If you do dent the top of the soundboard, you can restore the surface by steaming the
wood to swell the fibers back into place. Drip some water onto the dent, and then lay
a wet cloth over the dent and use a household iron and to steam the damaged
portion. Repeat if necessary. Allow the wood to dry before sanding the area.

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____8. When the soundholes are done, and the dulcimer box is dry, you can test fit
the two together. Please note that the SOUNDBOARD, like the BACK, is cut slightly
oversize, just to make sure it covers the entire frame. Try to position it evenly,
however, because the locations of the tuning pins and hitch pins are already marked
on the wood for you. The goal is to have equal overhang all around the frame.
Check for dried glue blobs or uneven surfaces that might interfere with a good fit of
the SOUNDBOARD on the dulcimer frame. When satisfied with the fit, glue the
SOUNDBOARD to the frame and the TONE BAR, using plenty of clamps and/or weights to
ensure complete contact all the way around the instrument. Look for glue squeezing out as a
sign of good contact.
Pad the jaws of your clamps with wood
blocks to prevent damage to the soft
cedar top. If you are a little short on
clamps, lay long pieces of stiff wood
around the perimeter of the box and
fasten your clamps down against them to
distribute the pressure.
CUSTOM SOUNDHOLES
If you would rather design your own soundholes, this is a good place to be creative,
making your instrument unique. We have tried a number of different sizes and shapes of
holes, and they all work fine.
Draw out your ideas on paper first, then cut them out and try positioning them on the
soundboard to see how they would look. Transfer the design to the wood with carbon paper,
and use a FINE TOOTH jigsaw blade when cutting the wood. Further decoration can be done
with wood overlay of a contrasting color, or with decorative binding around the edges of the
hole, or hand painting, stenciling, heat transfer designs, etc.
Now is a good time to sign
your name to your
instrument. Put your
signature, date, location, and
any message you have for
posterity on the inside of the
back where it can be seen
through one of the
soundholes.
POINT OF INTEREST
Some people ask about finishing the inside of the
soundchamber. We do not recommend trying it. Guitars
and violins are not finished on the inside, so this
instrument need not be sealed on the inside either. We
understand people’s concern about the effects of humidity
on the wood, but even the best varnish or lacquer does not
hermetically seal the wood. It blocks spilled milk from
soaking in, but it does not prevent the wood from
“breathing” moisture vapor from the surrounding air.

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TRIMMING & SANDING
_____9. Once the box is dry, you need to
trim away the excess wood from the
SOUNDBOARD and the BACK. One easy
way to accomplish this is with a belt
sander. This tool will also even out the
corners of the PINBLOCKS that may
protrude slightly beyond the RAILS.
If you use a router for this
trimming operation, use a very sharp
carbide bit and move the router fairly
slowly to avoid problems. We usually
work the router in the reverse direction
than normal, i.e. in the same direction as
the spin of the bit. That helps prevent
tear-out. We have seen soft
SOUNDBOARDS get chipped by cutting
too quickly. Also, take care to avoid
letting the bit “fall” into the open slots in
the FRONT RAIL. A good way to prevent
this is to clamp a small guide fence to the
router base, as shown.
Those who are unmotorized can achieve good safe results by hand with coarse
sandpaper wrapped around a scrap of 2 X 4 wood, although it will take a considerable
amount of “elbow grease”.
_____10. Fill the countersunk screw holes in the front
and rear RAILS by gluing the four maple plugs into the
holes.
_____11. Sand the wood plugs flush with the surface of
the RAILS so that you remove all ridges and all glue
residue that is showing.
_____12. Round over all sharp edges of the dulcimer box
so they feel smooth to your hand. Again, a router with a
1/4" rounding over bit makes this job simple, but you can
do the job well with a sanding block, working by hand.
Follow up with medium sandpaper to remove the
scratches left by the coarse block.
CAUTION: CHECK YOUR ROUTER BASE
AND WORK TABLE FOR ANY FOREIGN
MATTER THAT MIGHT SCRATCH UP YOUR
HANDIWORK. WE RECOMMEND COVERING
YOUR WORK TABLE WITH AN OLD TOWEL
OR A CARPET SCRAP FOR PADDING. THEN
YOU PLACE THE DULCIMER ON IT WITHOUT
WORRYING ABOUT SCRATCHES.

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DRILLING FOR HARDWARE
_____13. Now you can drill the holes for the tuning pins and hitch pins. A drill press
would be helpful on this step, but not absolutely necessary. You can achieve good
results with a hand electric drill, if you work carefully. Try your best to hold the drill
straight (vertical) as you work. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit to
mark the correct depth.
HITCH PIN HOLES:
Drill the 33 hitch pin holes in the center row of
punch-marks on each side of the top (17 on one side and 16 on
the other) using a 9/64” drill bit, boring ONE INCH deep.
TUNING PIN HOLES:
Drill the 66 tuning pin holes one the two outer rows of punch-
marks on each side of the top (34 on one side and 32 on the other)
using the 3/16” drill bit provided in this kit, boring ONE AND A
QUARTER INCHES deep. (you do not want the tuning pin to
reach the bottom of the hole).
POINT OF INTEREST
Some people ask about using different HITCH PINS than the round-head screws provided with
this kit. You can make that exchange if you wish, but here are the reasons we like the screws:
a) You can drill straight (vertical) holes for the screws -- no need for tilting your drill;
b) Some people find stringing to be particularly frustrating. When handling the continuous
music wire, the head of the screw is very handy for keeping the wire from jumping off
the pin as you string the instrument;
c) If you happen to chip the cedar a little with your drill bit, the head of the screw helps
hide your boo-boo.
If you decide you’d rather have plain HITCH PINS, then check the pin diameter before selecting
the drill bit, and make sure to tilt your drill about 10-15 degrees away from the center of the
instrument so the strings won’t slide off the tops of the pins.

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Hardware
2 black delrin rods (21" each)
2 brass tubes, 3/8" dia (21" each)
66 tuning pins
33 round head wood screws (hitch pins)
Music wire: 20 ft of .016" dia, 50 ft of .018" dia, 50 ft of .020" dia, 100 ft of .022"
SANDING & FINISHING
_____1. Sand the entire box to smooth out the surfaces and round over the edges so
they feel good to your hand. Use medium (150-180 grit) sandpaper, working with the
grain so you don't scratch the surface.
Carefully check all the joints and glue seams to remove any glue residue that might
remain visible, as that will show up as ugly smudges under the finish.
_____2. Sand the maple BRIDGES to remove any burrs or rough spots.
IF YOU PURCHASED OUR PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED KIT
Breath a sigh of relief for the work you’ve avoided, and check over the hardware parts of
your kit now, to make sure everything is included. If you discover a problem, call us
right away so we can rectify it quickly without causing you much delay in your project.
We also suggest skimming through the entire directions before beginning, just to get an
overview of the project. You may decide to purchase a few optional decorations or
accessories to enhance the finished instrument.
1 tuning wrench
1 pair playing hammers
1 set assembly instructions & tuning chart
PRELIMINARY CAUTION
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING THE CEDAR TOP (SOUNDBOARD) ON THIS
KIT. IT IS VERY SOFT AND SUSCEPTIBLE TO DENTS AND SCRATCHES. WE
RECOMMEND PLACING A TOWEL OR CARPET SCRAP ON YOUR WORK TABLE FOR
PADDING. THEN YOU WON'T NEED TO WORRY WHEN YOU TURN THE BOX UPSIDE
DOWN OR SLIDE IT AROUND ON YOUR WORKBENCH.
OPTIONAL DECORATING
We offer several designs of decorative laser-cut rosettes that can be glued directly over the
soundholes on your instrument for that added touch of class. Check our MUSICMAKER’S
CATALOG for designs, and select a MEDIUM size to fit the holes we have drilled for you. It
will be easiest to glue these in place before finishing, using standard woodworking glue. If
you try to attach them later, you’ll need to use an adhesive such as epoxy or superglue that
will stick to a finished surface.
POINT OF INTEREST
The bridges in this kit have been cut by laser beam. This gives us perfect accuracy and it avoids the
problem of splitting that often occurs when using a drill bit on such thin material. The dark area
inside each hole is actually charred wood from the laser beam. We like to leave it dark, finishing it
without sanding that area -- it looks very sharp on the finished instrument.

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_____3. Notice that the BRIDGES have a few tiny holes drilled along the tops. These
are for marking dots to help guide you in your playing. You need to fill these holes
with black DELRIN (from the excess length provided in the kit). Push one end of a
DELRIN rod into a hole and clip it off as close to the wood as you can with a wire
cutter. Repeat this procedure for each hole, but be careful not to use too much
DELRIN from one rod. You must leave the rods long enough to span the entire length
of the maple BRIDGES.
Sand these marking
dots flush with the
surface of the bridges.
_____4. If the BRASS TUBES are tarnished, use steel wool or a scouring pad to clean
and brighten them up.
APPLYING THE FINISH
_____5. When satisfied with your sanding, apply the finish of your choice. Here are a
few suggestions:
STAIN -- STAINS are coloring agents and should only be used if you dislike the natural color of the wood. We
usually do not apply stains to our projects, especially when they are made with naturally beautiful hardwoods
such as cherry or walnut. These woods look very nice with just a clear finish. But, if you want to color the
wood differently, your staining should be accomplished before applying a surface finish such as oil, varnish,
or lacquer. We like ANILINE DYES for darkening the wood without osbcuring the grain. Our 3-color
powdered dyes (code FINI-40) can be mixed with denatured alcohol to a variety of nice shades. The advantage
of these dyes are quick drying time, deep colors, even penetration, and the opportunity to create a "sunburst"
shading effect.
OIL -- An oil finish will give your wood a low luster appearance, bringing out the natural color of the grain,
but it tends soak into the wood and appear dry and "thirsty" after awhile. The principal advantage of an oil
finish is that it can be applied and wiped dry immediately, so you can proceed with installing hardware and
strings right away. The disadvantages of oil are that it usually does not give much surface protection or
sheen, and it has a tendency to attract and hold dust, which can be a source of frustration on this
instrument.
VARNISH -- Any regular varnish will work fine on this project, but we recommend our wipe-on polyurethane
called MUSICMAKER'S INSTRUMENT FINISH. Our complete finishing kit (code FINI-20) includes detailed
instructions, sandpaper sheets, tack cloth, foam applicator, and lint-free wiping cloth, along with a pint can of
semi-gloss polyurethane varnish. The advantages of this finish are its simple application, durability, and
deep, soft luster. It also works well for sealing over Heat Transfer decorations or hand-painted designs.
LACQUER -- Many professional instrument makers still use lacquer for their finish. The most readily
available lacquer is called Deft Clear Wood Finish. It is best to purchase a can of liquid to brush on as a
sealer coat first, and then use an aerosol can of the same product to spray on the final coats. The advantage
of this finish is its quick drying time, but the disadvantage is the strong odor of the toxic lacquer fumes.
CAUTION: Lacquer finish will not work over Heat Transfer decorations -- it dissolves the toner.
_____6. Don't forget to apply finish to the maple BRIDGES and the playing HAMMERS
too! We also like to apply one clear coat on the BRASS TUBES to keep them shiny.

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INSTALLING THE HARDWARE & STRINGS
Once the finish is dry, you can install the hardware.
_____7. The 33 holes in the center row of each side (17 on one side
and 16 on the other) are for the HITCH PINS (round-head wood
screws). You can use a hammer to start these part way in, but
change to a screwdriver to screw them down to final depth, so the
screw heads are just slightly above the wood surface.
_____8. The 66 holes in the two outer rows on each side of the box (34 on
one side and 32 on the other) are for the TUNING PINS. Insert these pins
THREADED END FIRST into the holes using a hammer to tap them until
they are about half-way in (the small hole should be about 1/4" above the
wood).
Now you are ready for stringing! You may want to ask a friend to help you with this part of
the project, as it often seems to require more than two hands. You also will need the tuning
wrench (supplied in the kit), some masking tape, and a wire cutter for these next few steps.
_____9. Center both brass tubes in the grooves along either side of the instrument, holding
them in place with a little tape until you have a few strings installed.
_____10. Cut the black DELRIN rods just a little longer than necessary to fit the length of the
maple BRIDGES, and use masking tape to hold the delrin temporarily in the groove along the
top of each bridge. We like to have the DELRIN extend about 1/4” beyond each end of the
BRIDGES.
_____11. Stand the TREBLE
BRIDGE (the longer one) on
the instrument so that the
upper end is about 7-3/4"
from the rear left corner of
the box, and the lower end is
about 16" from the front left
corner, as shown. Hold it in
place temporarily with a
little masking tape.
NOTE: The black dots are
important playing aids. The
TREBLE BRIDGE should be
oriented so the end with the
plain "foot" is at the front rail
and the end with the marked
HINTS: You may wish to place a scrap of wood on the surface
of your dulcimer near where you are pounding, so that you
don't accidentally mar the redwood top by aiming incorrectly
with the hammer -- ouch! Some customers recommend using a
drill press (turned off) as an arbor press for pushing the pins
into the holes. This works well and makes it easy to achieve
uniform pin height.

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"foot" is at the rear rail.
_____12. Locate the coil of wire marked .022" and pull out about 8 feet from one end.
This will be used for the longest course (pair) of strings at the
front of the instrument. Here is how to install it:
a) Poke the end of the wire into, but not all the way through,
the small hole in the first tuning pin at the lower right corner of
the dulcimer (on the inside row).
b) Use the tuning wrench to turn the pin CLOCKWISE about
one-half turn before putting tension on the wire.
c) Pull on the wire to "set" it in the pin. This puts a kink in the wire at the point
where it enters the tiny hole in the tuning pin. If the wire pulls out of the pin when
you pull on it, cut off the kinked end and try again.
d) Keeping tension on the wire at all times
turn the pin about two complete revolutions
with the tuning wrench, guiding the wire
DOWNWARD as it winds around the pin.
e) Maintain tension
on the wire as you stretch it across the dulcimer (over the
treble bridge) to the lower left corner and wind it clockwise
around the lowest wood screw (hitch pin). Just a single
loop around the screw is sufficient, although it won't hurt
anything if you want to wind a complete 360 degree circle around the pin.
f) Pull the wire back across (over the treble bridge) to the right corner again and cut
it off from the coil so that you have about 2 or 3 inches excess wire to wind onto the
second tuning pin (in the outer row).
NOTE: This may seem like a silly exercise, especially if the wire keeps coming out of
its place when you pull. We install strings this way because the sharp ends are left
hidden in the tuning pins where they can’t poke fingers or catch on clothing. It
really does work, and it is worth learning the technique.

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g) Poke that end of the wire into (but not all the way through) the second tuning pin
and turn the pin about one-half turn clockwise before "setting" the wire as you did
with the first end.
h) Continue turning the pin clockwise to wind the excess wire DOWNWARD toward
the wood until all the slack is taken up. IT IS IMPORTANT TO HAVE THESE STRINGS
MAKE FIRM CONTACT WITH THE BRASS TUBES ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BOX, so
that is why the windings must go down toward the surface of the instrument.
VOILA ! You have just installed your first course (pair) of strings. If you are not
completely frazzled by now, you'll succeed just fine with the rest of the project.
_____13. To hold the upper end of the treble bridge firmly in place, we recommend
attaching the highest course (pair) of strings at the rear of the instrument. FIND THE
COIL OF WIRE MARKED .016" FOR THIS COURSE. Attach this wire in the same way
as you installed the first pair, following steps "a" through "h", and using the last pair
of tuning pins on the right and the last hitch pin on the left.
_____14. Now you should be able to remove the masking tape that was holding the
parts in place.
The size of the wire gets smaller as you progress toward the rear of the instrument,
and the notes become higher in pitch. Here is the preferred arrangement of wire
sizes for the treble bridge:
IMPORTANT NOTE: The rest of the strings that cross the treble bridge will be
attached to THE TUNING PINS on the right and THE HITCH PINS on the left. The pins
on the opposite sides will be used for the strings that cross the bass bridge. We will
get to those later.
STRING SIZE CHART
TREBLE BRIDGE
.022" wire -- FRONT 7 COURSES (longest)
.020" wire -- MIDDLE 4 COURSES
.018" wire -- NEXT 4 COURSES
.016" wire -- REAR 2 COURSES (shortest)
THIS MAKES A TOTAL OF 17 PAIRS OF WIRE ON THE
TREBLE BRIDGE, ONE OVER EACH "FOOT".

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_____15. Continue stringing the wires across the TREBLE BRIDGE, bringing them up
to a reasonable tension, but not trying to actually tune them yet. Be sure to change
sizes of wire according to the chart above.
YOU'RE DOING A GREAT JOB -- TAKE A BREAK BEFORE STARTING ON THE BASS
BRIDGE -- You'll want to be well rested before the next challenge....
_____16. When all the are installed over the TREBLE BRIDGE, turn the instrument
around so the rear rail faces you. This makes it easier to string the BASS BRIDGE in
the same right-handed fashion. Stand the bass bridge in place as shown in the
drawing. The "feet" should all fit between the wires that pass over the TREBLE
BRIDGE.

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You will discover that the BASS BRIDGE can be shifted around somewhat to fit
the spacing of the treble strings. Unlike the TREBLE BRIDGE, it doesn’t matter if
you angle it a little differently than shown, because you will only play the strings on
one side of this bridge.
_____17. The longest course (near the front of the instrument) will be .022" wire. You will
attach it to the dulcimer in virtually the same manner as you did the treble strings, WITH
ONE IMPORTANT EXCEPTION: the bass strings must go OVER THE BASS BRIDGE, and
UNDER THE TREBLE BRIDGE! Just an interesting twist to complicate matters a little for
you....
HINT: We find the easiest way
to put the string under the
TREBLE BRIDGE is to put a
bend in the wire about 2-3 feet
from the end, then push that
bend under the treble bridge
and hook it around the hitch
pin. Then the two ends can be
cut to proper length and
attached to the tuning pins.
_____18. String all 16 bass courses in the same manner you did the treble ones,
changing wire sizes according to this chart:

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HURRAH!! THE STRINGS ARE ALL IN PLACE. Hope you haven't been keeping track
of all the time invested just in stringing....
TUNING
_____19. Before you can successfully tune this instrument, you must make sure the TREBLE
BRIDGE is in just the right position. It must divide the vibrating portion of its strings into a
perfect ratio of 2:3 in order to play a proper scale, because you will play some notes on the
right side and some on the left, and the length of the strings helps determine their pitch.
You can slide the TREBLE BRIDGE sideways one way or the other to achieve this proper
placement. You may make careful measurements and calculations to verify its location, or
you may verify it "by ear", which is perhaps the better approach, since your ear is what will
complain if the thing is out of tune! Here’s how to go about it:
a) Pluck the lowest string (at the front of the instrument), on the right side of the TREBLE
BRIDGE. If the string is so loose that it just "twangs", then tighten it up until you get a clear
sound.
b) Pluck THAT SAME STRING on the left side of the bridge to see if that note is a musical
fifth interval above the first note. "So, what is a musical fifth interval?" you ask.
STRING SIZE CHART
BASS BRIDGE
.022" wire -- FRONT 6 COURSES (longest)
.020" wire -- MIDDLE 4 COURSES
.018" wire -- NEXT 4 COURSES
.016" wire -- REAR 2 COURSES (shortest)
THIS MAKES A TOTAL OF 16 PAIRS OF WIRE ON THE BASS
BRIDGE, ONE OVER EACH "FOOT".
The FIFTH INTERVAL is the span between "do" and "sol" on the scale. So if you pluck
the string on the right side of the TREBLE BRIDGE and consider that note as "do", then you
can sing "do, re, mi, fa, sol" and check to see if the note on the left side of the bridge (same
string) matches the note "sol". Or, a quicker way to sing the fifth interval is to hum the song
"Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star". The span between the first "Twinkle" and the second
"Twinkle" is a fifth interval. Of course, if you can't sing in tune, then you'll find this a
useless exercise!
The most accurate method of tuning is to purchase an electronic "tuner" device that
listens to the string as you pluck it, tells you what note it hears, and how accurately that
note is tuned. Musicmaker's offers such devices in our catalog, and they make tuning any
instrument a much more pleasant experience.

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18
c) Now, if the note on the left of the bridge is HIGHER than it should be (more than a fifth
interval above the right side), then you must LENGTHEN the amount of wire on that left side
of the bridge to lower the pitch. Do that by sliding the bridge to the right, just a little. Then
test the interval again.
d) If the note on the left side of the bridge is LOWER than it should be (less than a fifth
interval above the right side), then you must SHORTEN the length of wire vibrating on the
left side of the bridge to raise the pitch. Do that by sliding the bridge to the left, just a
little. Then test the interval again.
e) Once you are satisfied with the interval on the longest string at the front of the dulcimer,
test it also on the shortest string toward the rear of the dulcimer. Use the same technique
for adjusting until you hear a perfect fifth.
f) Now that the front and rear of the TREBLE BRIDGE are correctly placed, you need only
make sure that the rest of the bridge is lined up in a straight line between the ends. That
should ensure that all the strings give a fifth interval from the right side to the left.
WHEW! NOW YOU CAN ACTUALLY BEGIN TUNING....
_____20. Start with just the BASS BRIDGE strings first, beginning at the lowest strings near
the front of the dulcimer. You may want to cut out the TUNING CHART provided in the kit
and slide it under the strings for ease in determining what note to tune the strings to. These
strings will be tuned by turning the pins on the left side of the instrument.
ALL PAIRS ARE TO BE TUNED IN UNISON
The lowest pair of strings crossing the bass bridge will be tuned to the D below middle
C (the middle line on the bass clef). The next pair crossing the bass bridge will be tuned to E
below middle C and the next to F# below middle C, etc., as shown on the TUNING CHART.
NOTE: If, after completing this exercise, you happen to find a string that does not sound
a fifth interval across the TREBLE BRIDGE, then something else is amiss. Chances are,
the string is not making firm contact with the BRASS TUBE along the right-hand side. To
correct this problem, you must unwind the string part way and then re-wind it so that the
windings go DOWNWARD toward the wood, so the wire makes firm contact with the brass
tube. (This is only important for strings that cross the TREBLE BRIDGE. No need to worry
about those that cross the BASS BRIDGE.)
Be careful to check that you are turning the proper pin for the string
you wish to tune. Then pluck the string and turn the pin while the
string is still vibrating so you can hear the pitch change and you can
stop turning when you reach the proper tone.

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19
Treble bridge Bass bridge
F -- Bb
E--A Eb
D--G D
C -- F C
B--E Bb
A--D A
G -- C G
F#--B F
E--A E
D -- G D
C# -- F# Middle C
B--E B
A -- D A
G# - Middle C# G
F#-B F#
E -- A E
D#-G# D
Tune all the strings that cross the BASS BRIDGE according to the TUNING CHART.
_____21. Because the TREBLE BRIDGE is placed to give you a fifth interval from the right
side to the left, you need only tune one side of that bridge -- the other side will automatically
come into correct pitch. (That's the first break you've had in this project, eh?) These strings
will be tuned by turning the pins on the right side of the instrument.
Tune the longest pair of wires at the front of the instrument to a G# below middle C on
the right side of the TREBLE BRIDGE. Tune the next pair to A below middle C and the next
to B below middle C, etc., as indicated on the TUNING CHART.
_____22. Now, don't expect the instrument to be playable yet.... By the time you finish
tuning the highest string on the TREBLE BRIDGE, the bass strings will have already gone out
of tune. Don't give up! This won't happen every time. Two things are occurring that
contribute to the problem on a new instrument:
1) The wire is actually stretching a little, and
2) The box is flexing slightly under the tension of all those strings.
Bold letters denote marked courses for
illustrating the boundaries of diatonic scales.

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20
We usually tune a new instrument twice and then give it a little time to adjust (say,
overnight) before tuning again. It should hold pretty well after the third tuning.
CONGRATULATIONS! YOU REALLY DID IT. WE HOPE YOU ENJOY LEARNING TO PLAY YOUR
HAMMERED DULCIMER. WITH PROPER CARE, IT SHOULD GIVE YOU MANY YEARS OF
MUSICAL PLEASURE.
MUSICMAKER’S KITS, INC.
PO BOX 2117
STILLWATER, MN 55082-3117
[phone]
email: [email protected]
Care and Feeding of a Hammered Dulcimer
STRINGS: You should not need to replace the strings of your instrument unless they break or
become rusty. To prevent rusting, simply wipe the strings occasionally with a rag dipped in
household oil.
TUNING PINS: Tuning pins can also rust if they are exposed to excessive moisture or salty ocean
breezes. If you live in a humid climate or near the ocean, treat the tuning pins to an occasional oil
rub-down too.
We occasionally hear from a customer with loose tuning pins. This can happen if the holes are
drilled with a dull (or oversize) bit, or if the drilling was not straight and clean. Musicmaker's
stocks a few oversize tuning pins for that situation, though they are more expensive than the
standard size. Check our catalog (hardware page) for details.
WOOD SURFACES: The main challenge will be to clean the dust from under the strings. Not that
a little dust hurts anything, but when you finally decide to tackle the situation, you’ll need to push
a rag through the narrow spaces with a small dowel or thin stick. You may wish to treat the rag
with a dust-gathering solvent or a furniture polish -- that's fine. We often use Endust, Aulwood,
Old English, or plain old Johnson's Lemon Wax. They all work well. For the tiny spaces that can’t
be reached with a rag, we use a paint brush coated with Endust.