Necchi Automatic Supernova Ultra Mark 2 User manual

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NECCHI Societa per A:z:ioni • P1vi1 ( :t1ll1 )
• Simb. 9961270/
GB ind . 11
NECCHI
,
automatic
supernova ultra
mark 2
Instructions for the
use and maintenance

.
LIST OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
1. To insure perfect functioning
of machine . . . . . . .
2.
Recommended needle a n d
thread sizes . .
3. J:o insert needle
4. To thread machine . . .
5.
To thread needle with threader
6. To wind empty bobbin
7. "To remove bobbin case
8.
To insert . bobbin into bobbin
case . . . . .
9. To insert bobbin case
to. To adjust tension
11.
To regulate stitch length · .
12 . To start sewing
13. To drop feed dog
14. To remove work from ma-
chine . .
... .
15 . To change the position of
multiple needle plate
16. To connect machine to local
electricity
supply .
17.
To . run machine
18. Lighting . . . .
19.
To replace light bulb
20. Maintenance of machine
a) Oiling .. . .
b) To remove and .replace the
shuttle . . .
c) "
To clean feed dog _ and
needle plate seat . . .
d) To disassemble and reassem-
ble upper thread tension
21. Causes
of minor difficulties
Chapter 2
page 3
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SEWING WITHOUT AUTOMATIC
MECHANISM
22 . Straight sewing
23. Tacking
24. Basting
25. Zig-zag sewing
26. Zig-zag embroidery
27 .' Twin needle
28. Circular sewing
29 . Hemming
a) Straight stitch hem
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_,
· b) Narrow rolled edges
c) Shell stitch hem .
d) Hemming and sewing on
laces . . . .
30.
Flat felled seams
31.
Overlockstitch .
32 . Hemstitching ', with d.r awn
threads . .
33.
Picot hem . . .
34.
Applique work
a) Applique with picot stitch
b) Cut-out work . . .
c) Lace
edging · . .
d) Raised stitch applique .
. e)·
Contrast work applique • .
35 , Adjustable stitching guide
36. Darning
37. Quilting
38. Embroidery and monogram
with hoop
39. Sewing on buttons
a)" Two-hole buttons
b) Four-hole buttons with pa -
rallel. stitching . .
c) Four-hole buttons with
cross-stitching .
40.
Hand-operated buttonholes
a) Raised buttonholes .
b) Flat-stitched buttonholes
4 1. Blindstitching
Chapter 3
SEWIN.G WITH AUTOMATIC
MECHANISM
42. To ;repare the cams
a) Three-cam groups
b) Loose cams . .
43.
To insert cams into machine
44. To remove cams from machine
45. To stop motion of automatic
mechanism ...
46. Use of the selector device
47.
Foot for raised scallops
48.
Automatic buttonholes .
a) To make buttonhole
b) Flat-stitched buttonholes
49. Automatic blindstitching
50. Smock- stitch . .
51.
Lever for micrometric adjust-
ment of design . .
Charts of automatic embroidery
designs .
page 24
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1

Chapter 1
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: minor innovations to the sewing machine mechanisms against the
description given
in this book, may depend on continuous improvements
in the production cycles.
1. TO INSURE PERFECT FUNCTIONING OF MACHINE
Always bear in mind the following rules:
- Balance wheed must always be turned toward the operator;
-Do not try to help feeding by pulling fabric, since this action would bend
needle. The machine automatically feeds the fabric without assistance;
-Do
not operate machine with presser foot resting on feed dog unless
there is cloth in between;
- Keep a small piece of cloth underneath presser foot whenever machine
is not in use. This will prevent damage to feed dog and presser foot;
-
Always bring presser bar lever to its lowest position before starting to
sew.
3

2. RECOMMENDED NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES
Types of Fabrics and Uasaes of Work
Very thin fabrics like muslin, chiffon, batiste,
line
linen cambrics. For lingerie, infants' wear
and delicate lace work.
Shirtings, sheetings, calicoes, silk and cotton,
light weight woollens. For general household
sewing
and all classes of general work.
l lcavy rnlirncs and silk, light weight woollens,
heavy cretonnes, muslin, brocades
and quilts.
For men's work shirts, smocks and aprons,
quilting and fabric furnishing.
Bed tickings, upholstery
and awning material,
slip
cover fabric, woollen goods, heavy woven
coating, light weight canvas.
For trousers, boys'
clothing,
work uniforms, awning and slip
covers.
Heavy tickings and woollens, heavy woven
suiting and coating, canvas and sacking. For
heavy
clothing in general, such as heavy uni-
forms, coats, trousers,
bedding supplies, bags
etc.
NE CC HI machines use Syst .
1
S x 1 or Syst. 705 need les
Sizes of ThretJd
Sizes of Needles
Mercerized
Cotton Silk Syst. 15xl Sys t. 705
80
to
150
60
to
80
40
to
60
30
to
40
24
to
30
0
and
000
Twist
A&B
Twist
c
Twist
D
Twist
I T!ist
I
10
70
14
90
I
16
100
18
110
19 120
~~
3. TO INSERT NEEDLE
- Bring needle clamp to its highest position
by turning balance wheel towards you:
Fig . 4
4
- Push button " P " (Fig. 4);
Push needle up into needle-clamp as far
as it will go and release button "P ";
IMPORTANT: flat side of needle shank
must be turned toward the ri?ht.
4. TO THREAD MACHINE
l?as~ thread through points
shown in Fig. 5. After hav-
ing passed thread between
tension discs housing • C ",
hold thread between the
two thread guides " A "
in
the same time slightly
pulling
thread towards the
right so that it pulls up
sprir;ig· i<:M,, and places
itself
astride of pook " D ".
The . threading . of spring
." M " is -automati.cally per-
forilied on the conditiqn
that tension regulating knob
be at least on " 4 ".•
Pass thread through needle
eye from left - to right leav-
ing about 4 inches hanging
free. ·
· Fig. 6
..
(~'
. ••
...._r.·
"' ··.
.•
•
•
•
•
•
;/ - F ~
~
Fig. 5
5. TO .THREAD NEEDLE . WITH . :rHREADER
..
- Bring rie" edle t~ its · highest p6sition and
thread take-up lever u E " in correspond-
ence ~ith mark Ilne • N " on front plate
(Fig. 5); .
- Bring levers " B " and « C " (Fig. 1) to
the left and remove cams;
-
Rotate button " R " (Fig. 6); hook « S "
will pass through needle eye;
-
Pas~ thread · on hook ·•·S » · .and .· draw
. threader away from needle in "tlte direc-.
tiori of the !irrow, rotating button . " R ".
NOTE:
Th~ · magn.ifyi~g glass (( L" can ' he
lowered and · turned, to see whetl:ier thread
has been proper]" ca~ght by ho . ok « S !'.
~
5
.·• .
~~~.
..
• • •l'fl
I
·.

Q
Open cover " F » (Fig. 8), bring lever
" G 11 down and insert bobbin, with its
flange provided with holes towards the
left, on spindle u E ». Push spindle • E »
towards the right and cover • F » will
remain open.
-
Hold with the left and the end of the
thread · hanging from the hole and run
machine: after a few turns the thread,
held by the hand, will be automatically
cut.
When bobbin is full, the bobbin winder
automatically stops and cover « F » snaps
back into place.
-
Open cover u F », press on lever « G »
and remove filled bobbin.
Fig. 9
6
6. TO WIND EM PTY BOBBIN
- Disconnect balance wheel
u P » by turning knob u Q »
in the direction of the
arrow (Fig. 7).
-
Pass thread through points
indicated
in illustration
and insert it from the
inside to the outside into
one of
the two holes of
the bobbin flange, leaving
about 4 inches of thread
hanging free.
Fig. 8
1. TO REMOVE BOBBIN CASE
- Bring needle to its highest
position and move slide
plate to the left.
-
Remove bobbin case by lift-
ing latch « H » and pulling
it to the left.
NOTE:
The bobbin will drop
out when latch is released.
8. TO INSERT BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE
- Insert bobbin into bobbin case; thread
must be wound around bobbin as indicat-
ed in Fig. lOa.
-
The bobbin flange provided with holes
must be turned toward the outside of
the bobbin case, in order that the right
direction of rotation should be insured.
-
Insert thread into groove of bobbin case.
Lift latch u H » so that bobbin is blocked
and draw thread under tension spring as
indicated
by Fig. lOb.
Let about 4 inches of thread hanging out.
H
.(b
Fig. 10
9. TO INSERT BOBBIN CASE
- Bring needle to its highest position and move slide plate to the left;
-
Insert bobbin case by latch "H » (Fig. 9) and place it on center stud of
shuttle. Finger " M » must go into notch of shuttle ring;
-Release
latch u H » and press on bobbin case until a click is heard;
- Let about 4 inches of thread hanging out.
7

T
Fig . 11
G Fig.
12
Fig . 13
Fig. 14
Fig . 15
8
10. TO ADJUST TENSIONS
- To loosen the upper thread tension,
turn button "T,, (Fig . 11) in the direc -
tion of
the arrow . By turning button "T •
in the opposite direction the tension will
be i ncreased .
NOTE : the normal value of th e upper thread
tension is indicated on the knob by a small
red disc.
-
The lower tension is increased by tighten-
ing screw « G,, (Fig. 12); it is decreas-
ed by loosening same .
a) The upper and lower threads must lock
in the centre of the fabric (Fig. 13), that
is, their tensions must be even. In this
condition, two faults may occur:
1) Even tensions, too loose. The stitches
are loose. It is then necessary to in-
crease both tensions.
2) Even tensions, too tight. The fabric
ruffles or the thread break s. It is
necessary to loosen both tensions.
b) If the upper tension is tighter than the
lower, the upper thread will lie flat on
top of fabric and the lower thread will
be pulled to the upper surface (Fig. 14)
and be visi ble there in small knots. Ad-
just tensions by tightening the lower
tension and loosening the upper one.
c)
If the lower tension is too tight, the lower
thread will lie flat on the underside of
the fabric (Fig. 15); therefore tighten the
upper tension and loosen the lower.
NOTE: When sewing on hard or thick
fabr ics, it is advisable to loosen screw • E •
(Fig. 11) and slightly move small plate « P »
in the direction opposite to that of the arrow.
11. TO REGULATE STITCH LENGTH
- Turn button « D ,, (Fig. 16); the stitch
length expressed in mm. is visible through
small window « F ,,
The normal stitch length is no . 2.
The stitch length normally required for
satin stitch (see Para. 26) is indicated by a
red square mark.
To reverse direction of sewing
Fig. 16
- Push button « R ,, completely (Fig. 16); the machine will sew in reverse
with the stitch length regulated by button « D ,, .
- The machine resume s s ewing forward as soon as button • R" is left free.
12. TO START SEWING
- Holding the thread hanging
out of the needle eye , turn
balance wheel to bring
needle to its highest posi-
tion.
-
Draw the upper thread; the
lo wer thread will be pulled
up through the hole of
needle plate .
-
Place both threads behind
presser foot.
Start s ewing slowly, holding
t he threads for the first 4-5
stitches. Fig. 17
9

13. TO DROP FEED DOG
The feed dog must be dropped for hoop
embroidery, darning and sewing on buttons.
- Turn button « P " so that one of its
prongs faces the square mark « Q »
(Fig. 18).
-
Push button u P ,. down; it will remain
in this position.
To
raise feed dog, turn button « P,, so that
one of its prongs faces the opposite mark
" S ,. (Fig. 19).
NOTE : The feed dog c an be dropped from
time to time , by leaving one of the prongs
of button " P u facing alignment mark " S ,, .
. I
QP~~
~1'.
~j)···o
Fig. 18
p--~_/
~~/'s
~-·o
~
Fig. 19
Fig. 20
14. TO REMOVE WORK FROM MACHINE
H-+~ .... '"~"
10
- Bring needle and thread take-up lever to
their highest position and raise presser
foot.
-
Draw fabric away from presser foot and
draw threads, keeping them taut, through
thread-cutter "H » (Fig. 20).
-
Cut threads and remove fabric.
The ends of both threads will be held by the
thread cutter and the machine will be ready
to perform another seam without requirin&
that the threads be held by the operator
during the first 4 or 5 stitches.
15. TO CHANGE THE
POSITION OF MULTIPLE
NEEDLE PLATE
The needle plate can be
fitted in 3 different positions
(Fig. 21)
which are used as
follows:
U - for straight and zig-zag sewing .
Fig.
21
W - for straight stitch on light fabrics (nylon, silk) with the needle position
1ever (Fig. 1) in left n otch and the presser foot for straight stitch.
Z - for twin needle sewing.
To fit
ne e dle plate in each one of the 3 pos itions:
- Dr op feed dog (see para. 13), bring needle to its highest position and
move slide plate to the left.
-
Press lever " E » and the needle plate will lift itself.
-
Turn the needle plate around until the desired position is under needle.
Locating pin " F » will enter the corresponding hole in the plate.
- Press central pin " G ». The plate will block itself automatically.
-Raise feed dog.
NOTE: The needle plate can be removed by pressing lever " E » completely.
11

16. TO CONNECT MACHINE
TO LOCAL ELECTRICITY
SUPPLY
Before inserting machine plug
in the supply current outlet,
check that machine is provid-
ed with a voltage tap-changer
as indicated in Fig . 22. Make
certain that the small bridge
" A » is inserted in the position
corresponding to local voltage.
If it is not, proceed as follows:
B Fig.
22
- Remove screw « B " and transparent cover plate.
-
Remove screw " C ,, and loosen screw " D ".
-
Turn s mall bridge « A " round so that its extremity faces the hole corres-
ponding to the local voltage.
- Ti
ghten screws « C " and « D ,, and replace transparent cover plate by
means of screw " B ».
17. TO RUN MACHINE
- Connect machine to the electric line .
-
Push switch "Z " (Fig. 23) in position
" L ,, . The red signal light « R " (Fig. 24)
will light up .
-
Start machine by pressing on foot con-
trol.
If you wish to sew with the maximum speed,
push switch " M ,, in position « MAX ". To
reduce speed, push it in position « MIN "·
NOTE: The machines for treadle operation
only are not provided with switch « M ".
12
__/
z M
(;}-~'$
(Q
Fig. 23
18. LIGHTING
uagu11111
0-R
In the motor operated machines, the light
can be cut out by turning shade • S » (Fig.
24).
The red signal light « R » however will con-
tinue to glow.
In the treadle operated machines, just push
switch " Z ,, (Fig . 23) in position « O• .
Fig. 24
19. TO REPLACE LIGHT BULB
- Open ftont plate.
-
Remove light bulb " P » together with
its shade from lamp holder « V • (Fig.
25).
-
Remove light bulb from shade into which
it is inserted by pressure.
- Insert riew bulb into shade and insert it
into lamp holder, by pressing slightly
against wall portion " Q » to insure elec-
tric contact.
Use only NECCHI bulbs.
Fig. 25
13
'I
1:!

20. MAINTENANCE OF MACHINE
a) Oiling
\~~il\
~
To insure easy and trouble-
free running, the machine
requires oiling. If used
continuously, it should be
oiled every two days .
~
Fig. 27
Use Necchioil
or some good-qua-
lity light sewing
machine oil.
14
Fig. 26
The oiling points are indicated in Figs. 26,
27 & 28.
Let fall about ten drops of oil in hole • A •
(Fig. 26).
From time to time also oil shuttle rim and
shuttle race (see para. 20b).
·Fig. 28
b) To remove and replace the shuttle
If machine runs hard or jams slightly, this may be due to a piece of thread
which has been caught in shuttle race. · ·
To
correct this condition, pro-
ceed as follows:
-
Bring needle to its highest
position.
-
Tilt machine back on its
hinges and extract bobbin
case.
-
Push spring " Z " sideway.s
.-
with thumb of · right band
(fig. 29): . ~- -
- Turn race plate " T "
around its hinge.
-
Extract shuttle . " R ".
T R
Fig. 29
- Carefully clean with <1 small brush and put a drop of oil in the shuttle
race . Also oil the rim of the shuttle.
-
Replace shuttle.
- Fit race plate onto the two short studs on the shuttle race and press it
· until spring blocks it in its housing.
-
Replace bobbin case and lower machine to wo~king Position.
c) · To clean feed dog and needle plate seat
- Remove needle plate (see note, para. 15).
- Clean feed dog teeth and needle plate with a small brush.
15
A,
.:.

d) To disassemble and reassemble upper
thread tension
To disassemble tension:
- Place button cc An (Fig. 30) on 0.
- Pull it out so that hook cc B" comes out
of hole "C ».
- Turn it anticlockwise, unscrewing it from
machine.
-Disassemble
parts as in Fig. 31.
----@®~@
Fig. 31
Fig. 30
Carefully clean all the sur-
faces of parts.
- Assemble parts exactly as shown in Fig. 31 and in such a way that the
• 0 n mark will be visible on button cc A ".
-
Screw the device onto the machine (press slightly and tum it anticlock-
wise;
when a click is heard, turn it in the opposite direction).
- When small hook " B " comes into contact with chrome plated plate, draw
button toward you and tum it again, bringing small hook into hole « C ».
16
21. CAUSES OF MINOR DIFFICULTIES
Needle thread breaks
- Needle is inserted incorrectly
- Upper tension is too strong
- Machine is improperly threaded
- Thread is not suitable for fabric
- Thread has knots
- Needle eye is rough or sharp
- Needle is too fine
-
Needle point is damaged, bent
or blunt
- Needle plate hole is damaged
- Machine is started at full speed
- Sewing is started with thread
take-up lever not in its highest
position
-
Bobbin case is damaged, due to
being hit by needle
- Shuttle race is damaged
Needle breaks
- Fabric is pulled by hand in such
a manner that needle hits needle
plate
- Needle is bent or blunt
Lower thread breaks
- Lower thread tension is too tight
- Bobb 'n not evenly filled
-
Bobbin is too full and does not
rotate into bobbir, case
- Dirt or lint in bobbin case
Skip stitches
- Needle is inserted incorrectly
- Needle is bent or blunt
- Thread is too heavy for the size
of
needle
- Needle is of wrong size for
thread in use
Uneven stitches
- Presser foot does not rest fully
on fabric
-
Pressure of presser foot is unsuf-
ficient
~ Feed dog is set too low
- Fabric is pulled by hand
- Stitch is too short
- Needle is too fine for thread in
use.
Machine does not sew straight stitch
- The cams have not been remov-
ed
Heavy turning or jamming of machine
- A loose piece of thread has been
caught in shuttle race
- Motor belt is too tight (adjust it
by loosening the motor fasten-
ing screws)
-
Machine is not lubricated
- Needle has blunt point
In case you cannot adjust the
trouble, call for a mechanic at your
local NECCHI Dealer
17

Light does not go on
- Line has no current (check fuses
and master switch)
- Plug is not well inserted in its
receptacle
-
Filament of bulb is broken
-Voltage tap-changer and/or four-
way plug are not well inserted
Light is too bright or too dim
- Control the position of the volt-
age tap-changer
Although light is on, motor fails
to turn.
- The four-way plug is not well
inserted in its receptacle
- See the reasons mentioned under
para.: « Heavy turning or jam-
ming of machine ».
In case you cannot find or adjust
the trouble, call for a mechanic at
your local NECCHI dealer.
Motor turns too rapidly
- Check whether voltage tap-chan -
ger is correctly set
Motor turns too slowly
- A piece of thread is caught in
shuttle race
- Motor belt is too tight
-Machine is not lubricated
- Check whether voltage tap-chan-
ger is correctly set
Overheating of motor, foot-control
and/or bed plate
All electrical equipments heat up
when running without causing da-
mage. Excessive heating can only be
due to overloading or heavy turning
of machine. It can be eliminated by
running machine more easily.
IMPORTANT: It is possible that, after considerable use, the mechanical
parts of the machine will require adjustment. If, by referring to the afore-
mentioned causes of trouble, you cannot bring your machine into good
condition, call
for your NECCHI dealer . He will put the machine into perfect
working order.
18
Chapter 2
SEWING WITHOUT THE
AUTOMATIC MECHANISM
NOTE: To execute the sewing works described in this chapter, it is necessary
to remove cams·from machine and stop the automatic mechanism (see para.
44 & 45) . .
· . 22:
STRAIGHT " SEWING
Zig-zag stitch lever « C ,, (Fig . 1): in left notch.
Stitch length knob « D » : set for desired stitch length. Normal length is
on no.
2.
NOTE: for straight seams on light fabrics, see para. 15.
23. TACKING .
After you have finished sewing, rei~force the seam by pressing button • R »
(Fig. 16) thus making a few stitches in reverse.
24. BASTING
Proceed as for normal sewing, but set knob « D » (Fig. 1) for the maximum
stitch length and loosen upper thread tension « T » (Fig. 11). This makes it
possible to effect long and loose stitches which can be easily unraveled.
19

c Fig.
32
25. ZIG-ZAG SEWING
Needle plate: on position "U,, (see para. 15).
Presser foot: use hinged foot for zig-zag stitch or transparent foot for em-
broidery.
Needle position lever "B ": set it according to the desired position of the
sewing line (left, centre, right).
Zig-zag width lever " C ,, : set for desired zig-zag width.
NOTE: the small plates "E" and "F" (Fig. 32) which make it possible to
limit the displacement of the zig-zag width lever, can be shifted by loosening
and displacing the two buttons " G " and " H ,, .
26. ZIG-ZAG EMBROIDERY
Fig . 33 shows a few motives of zig-zag embroidering, but you can vary them
at will.
Set machine as follows:
Presser foot: transparent foot for embroidery.
Tension: upper tension rather loose and lower rather tight.
The upper thread must be visible on the lower side of fabric.
Stitch length knob " D " (Fig. 1): near the red square mark so that the
fabric is fed just enough to keep stitches close but not piled up:
20
Fig. 33
~
~ ..... ~ .. ~
~ ~/"'>.r ~~'
"*'A 't...~~.;4-... ~~
~. 4J.~ .. ~
~~h ~,,,~ b
~~~ i-AV~ ~ C
~~~ t/~
~. d
e :
a
a) (SATIN STITCH)
Use embroidery thread no. 50.
The length of the designs b, c,
d, e naturally depends on the
speed at which the levers are
operated.
Lever • C " (Fig. 32): set for desired zig-zag width.
b)
Lever • B » : in centre notch .
Slowly tnove lever « C ,, from 1 to 5 and flip it back quickly to 1 (set plate
"E" on 1). ·
c)
Lever " C " : on 2. 5.
Press d6wn lever "B " and move it from left to right and viceversa without
stopping in the centre notch.
d)
Lever "C ": on 1.5.
Move lever « B » rapidly from left notch to centre notch, then to right notch
and viceversa.
e)
Lever " B " : in centre notch.
Move
lever " C » rapidly between 1 and 4 and viceversa.
21

27. TWIN NEEDLE
The twin needle makes .it possible to sew
with two threads of the same colour or of
different colours.
The twin needle is to be inserted in the
same manner as the normal one, (Fig. 34)
with the flat side of its shank toward the
right.
Presser foot: for twin needle.
Needle plate: in position « Z n (para. 15).
Lower thread: it must pass by the hole
indicated in Fig. 35. Its tension should be
rather loose.
Fig.
315
22
~
Fig. 34
~
~
Fig. 35
Thread must pass by points
indicated in Fig. 36.
The tension device has double
cams between which threads
pass separately.
Fig. 37a, b, c, shows some of
the decorative stitches which
can be made with the twin
needle.
,)
)
a)
Lever "B n (Fig. 1): in centre
notch.
Lever " C n : on 5.
Knob "D n: on 3.5.
b)
Lever " C ,, (Fig. 1): on 2.5.
Knob "D n: on red square
mark.
Move lever " B ,, rhythmically
back and forth between right
and left notches.
c)
Lever " C n (Fig. 1): on 1.
Knob " D n : on red square
mark .
Move lever " B » regularly
from left to right and vice-
versa.
Fig. 38
H
-i:t:-, -1
S
........ , __
.... L..-1" ;...-. -.
·+ ~ .. - .. -r-t-1- ·
t--n, ,, ... ,~.a
' ~h 'Y~b
., "b,,,c
Fig. 37
28. CIRCULAR SEWING
- Insert small rubber stopper • B • (Fig.
38)
in one of the holes " H n of slide plate
«Au.
Fix centre uf fabric on rubber stopper
" B " by means of pin " C n.
- Keep a finger on pin so that the fabric
revolving around the centre . point of
desigri
does not slip or become detached.
By moving slide plate « A n, circles of
various sizes can be obtained.
Circular sewing should be done only with
materials possessing a certain consistency.
With lighter materials, use an embroidery
hoop or place a piece of tissue paper under
fabric.
23

29. HEMMING
- Fold over edge of fabric about 1/8" and insert the fold from . benea th into
the scroll of presser foot.
-Move
fabric back and forth until hem forms itself into the scroll.
-
Lower presser foot and commence sewing, guiding fabric by hand in order
to help its introduction in the scroll.
.Fig. 39
b) NARROW ROLLED EDGES
(Fig. 40)
Lever " E ,, (Fig, 1): in centre
notch.
Lever " C ,, : between 2 and 3.
Knob. 1iD,, between 1 and 2.
Upper tension: normal.
Presser foot: zig-zag hemming foot.
Fig.
41
24
a) STRAIGHT STITCH HE M (Fig. 39 ~
Lever « B ,, (Fig. 1): in ce ntre
notch.
Lever " C ,, : on the left.
Knob "D,,: b etween 3 and 4.
Upper tension: normal.
Presser foot: straight stitch hem-
ming foot.
Fig. 40
c) SHELL STITCH HEM (Fig. 41 )
Lever "B" (Fig. 1): in centre notch.
Lever "C": between 2 and 3. ·
Knob "D,,: between 1 and 2.
Upper tension: rather tight.
Presser foot: zig-zag hemming foot.
This type of
hem is best done on
sheer materials such as nylon or
silk.
d) HEMMING AND SEWING ON
LACES (Fig. 42)
Set m achin e as for narrow rolled
edges.
Af t er ha v in g ma de the first stitche s,
raise he mmin g foot and insert end
of la ce int o s lot of hemming foot.
Nee dle mu st always stitch both
th ro ugh lace and hem .
Fi g. 43
31 . OVERLOCKSTITCH
Leve r "B" (Fig. 1): in centre notch .
Lever "C ": s et for desired zig-zag
widt h.
Kno b "D" : set for desired stitch
leng th.
Upper tension: normal.
Presser foot: use foot for zig-zag
sewing.
Needle must s tit ch into the fabric
and out of its e dg e alternately (Fig.
45>.
77 ~ ~1~ \:\ .. :-- ..
•:& - ~ l . ~
30. FLAT FELLED SEAMS
Fig. 42
Set machine as for straight stitch
hem.
-
Place a piece of fabric on top
of the other so that their right
sides face each other . Right edge
of bottom piece should protrude
about 1/ 2" beyond right edge of
top piece (Fig. 43).
- Sew both pi eces of fabric toge-
ther, using
the edge of hemming
foot s cr o ll as a guide.
- Open fabrics with their edges
sta nding up .
-
In se rt edges in hemming foot
scroll
and sew as for normal
s tr a ight s titch hem (Fig. 44).
Fig. 45
~
/~
"~ ·
' ---- J
25

Fig. 46
33. PICOT HEM
N eedLe plate: in position • Z » (see
para. 15).
Lever "B» (Fig. 1): in centre notch.
Lever "C»: between 1 and 2.
Knoo "D»: between 0.5 and 1.5.
· · V pper. tensio"!-: normal.
NeedLe: no 21 (syst 15 x 1) or
no. 120 (syst. 705).
Make first row of stitches at about
12 mm. from edge of fabric. Make
second row in sucth a way that
needle stitches .into · the outer holes
of first
row of stitches (Fig. 47).
With sharp scissors, cut right in the
middle of the two rows.
NOTE: This kind of work is best
done on organdy.
34. APPLIQUE WORK
a) APPLIQUE WITH PICOT STITCH
32. HEMSTITCHING WITH DRAWN
THREADS
Lever "B» (Fig. 1): in centre notch.
Lever "C»: between 1 and 2.
Knob "D»: between 1 and 2.
Upper tension: normal.
Draw desired number of threads
from the fabric to be hemstitched
and commence sewing, making sure
that the needle bites alternately close
to
the edge into the undrawn side
of fabric and then into the space
where the threads have been drawn
(Fig. 46). After stitching on one side
of the drawn space has been finish-
ed, repeat same procedure · on the
other side.
Fig. 47
Set machine as for picot hem. Put first piece of fabric under presser foot
and second piece on which design is sketched on top of the first.
Make first row of stitches following the outline of design and then cut away
surplus material of applique very clqse to the zig-zag stitches.
Start second row of stitches so that needle stitches into outer holes of first
row.
26
b) CUT-OUT WORK
Set machine as for satin stitch (para. 26a).
Baste fabric on which design (flower etc.) is sketched to fabric to which it
will be sewn.
Start sewing, following the outline of design and cut away surplus material,
as close as possible to the outline of design.
c) LACE EDGING
Lever « B » (Fig. 1): in cen tr e notch.
Lever • C » : set for desired zig-zag width .
Knob • D •: set for desired stitch length.
Upp><r tension: normal.
Place lace edging to the hem of the fabric on which it is to be sewn.
Commence sewing making sure that needle, while zig-zagging, stitches
through both fabric and lace.
d) RAISED STITCH APPLIQUE
Lever • B » (Fig. 1): in centre not-ch.
Lever " C »: according to thickness of co rd being used.
Knob " D »: on red square mark.
Upper tension: rather loose.
Presser foot: zig-zag stitch cording
foot.
Insert cord into the hole of cording
foot; then guide it from front to
back underneath presser foot. Com-
mence sewing and follow the design
carefully.
e) CONTRAST WORK APPLIQUE
Fig. 48
Proceed as for raised stitch applique, with the exception of stitch length
knob "D » (Fig. 1) which can be regulated at will so that the zig-zag stitches
are spaced wide apart so as to let cord appear in between. To obtain the
desired contrast, the colour of the cord must be different from the colour of
needle thread.
27

35. ADJUSTABLE STITCHING GUIDE
This guide makes it possible to keep
the stitches at a uniform distance
from the edge of fabric. It is fitted
on machine at the desired distance
from needle (see Fig. 49).
Fig. 49
36. DARNING
Lever «B» ,(Fig. 1): in c~ntre notch.
Lever «C» : on the left.
Upper tension: normal.
Feed dog: to be dropped (see para.
13).
Presser foot: darning foot. The hole
which .is on the front of presser foot
can be used to pass a reinforcement
11 thread.
Fig. 50
Commence darning, starting at the left upper
edge of hole, in the following manner:
-Move fabric forward and backward until
hole is filled with parallel lines of stit-
ches (Fig. 51),
- Turn fabric at -a right angle and repeat
operation until hole is fully darned
(Fig. 52).
NOTE: If large tears or very large thread
bare areas are to be darned, it is advisable
to clamp the fabric in an embroidery hoop
which can be purchased at your local NEC-
CHI Dealer.
28
Fig. 51
I
Fig. 52
37. QUILTING
Lever " C " (Fig. 1): on the left.
Knob "D ": set for desired stitch
length.
Upper tension; normal.
Presser foot: use zig-zag stitch hing-
ed foot
and attach it to machine
together with adjustable quilting
guide (Fig. 53).
Needle Plate: in position « U n (see
para. 15).
Regulate position of qu ilting guide in accordance with the desired distance
Setween two parallel line s of stitches.
Sew first left line, then mo be fabric toward the right so that guide bar is
directly over first line.
38. EMBROIDERY AND MONOGRAM WITH HOOP
For this type of work, use nylon or silk thread or mercerized embroidery
thread.
Lever « B " (Fig. 1): in centre notch.
Lever " C »: set for de s ired zig-zag width.
Knob " D » : on red square mark.
Upper tension: rather loose.
Feed dog: to be dropped (see para. 13).
Remove presser foot and clamp
fabric in hoop.
-
Slightly pulling upper thread,
turn balance wheel so that lower
thread is pulled up to upper sur-
face of fabric.
-
Move hoop slowly, but only when
needle is out of fabric and hold-
ing both threads for the first
stitches (Fig. 54). Fig. 54
29

39. SEWING ON BUTTONS
Lever « B • (Fig. 1); in left notch.
Lever • C • : between 4 and 5 ac-
cording to distance between holes of
button.
Feed dog: to be dropped (see para.
13).
Presser foot: button sewing foot. ·
a) TWO-HOLE BUTTONS
~ : ---\'''
~}'~ = .:.-:::: ',
.,
'
--~ ~--- o. : " '"" ; .• ~
. -7?~ · .
Fig. 55
- Turn balance wheel slowly;· cheoking t4at needle goe:; through left hole,
then through right hole of button; if needle does not clear button, change
the position of lever • C " (Fig. 1),
-
Run machine at medium speed making about 5 stitches,
-
Bring lever « C " to the left and make a few straight stitches in the same
hole to tie up zig-zag stitches.
b) FOUR-HOLE BUTTONS WITH PARALLEL
STITCHING
Proceed as for two-hole buttons.
After stitching between first two holes, raise
button sewing foot slightly and line up the
remaining two holes with needle (Fig. 56).
c) ·FOUR-HOLE BUTTONS WITH
CROSS-STITCHING
Proceed as for two-hole buttons.
' " After stitching first two holes, raise button
sewing foot and turn fabric at a right angle
so
that the remaining two holes are in proper
l?osition under needle (Fig. 57).
30
Fig. 56
Fig.
57
40. HAND OPERATED BUTTONHOLES
I Ii
a) RAISED BUTTONHOLES
Lever • B " (Fig. 1): in left notch .
Le ver « C " : its movement must be limited
be tween 1.5 and 3 (see note on bottom of
para. 25). i
7~
ill
1Y
y_
Knob « D ": on red square mark; check
rig ht position by trying out on a piece of
fa
bric s imilar to that used to make button-
ho le .
Presser foot: transparent buttonhole foot
prov
ided with guide. Regulate position of
guide according to desired length of button-
hole. 1uI
Fig. 58
Upper tension: rather tight; use mercerized cotton no. 40.
Lower tension: rather loose; use mercerized cotton no. 50.
-
Bring lever " C " (Fig. 1) on 1.5 and make first row of stitches (Fig. 58,
Operation I) going as far as to reach the limit marked by the guide. Leave
needle in fabric.
- Raise presser foot and turn fabric half a turn around needle (Fig. 58,
Operatio~ II). Lower presser foot.
-
Raise needle from fabric and bring lever " C " on 3.
- Make first bar tack with 3 or 4 stitches (F i g. 58, Operation III) and stop
sewing with needle out of fabric.
-
Bring lever " C " on 1.5 and make s econd row of stitches as long as the
first (Fig. 58, Operation IV). Stop sewing with needle out of the fabric.
-
Bring lever " C " on 3 and make s econd bar tack (Fig. 58, Operation V).
-
Remove work and knot threads on the under surface of fabric.
-
Cut fabric between the two rows of stitches with NECCHI buttonhole
cutter (Fig. 59).
b ) FLAT-STITCHED BUTTONHOLES
P ro ceed as for raised stitched buttonholes with the following exception:
- upper tension: on 4.5. Upper thread no. 50.
lower tension: normal. Lower thread no. 50 .
31

NECCHI BUTTONHOLE CUTTER
·Z1
"'·
The buttonhole cutter has many purposes
such as: cutting off buttons, cutting button-
holes, cords, seams etc.
:::r
;:i:;
-~
1JI Fig. 59
41. BLINDSTITCHING
Blindstitching makes it possible to sew together two pieces of fabric (a flat
piece " M " and a folded one " N ") (Fig. 60), so that stitches appear on one
side only.
Lever " B » (Fig. 1): in centre notch.
Lever «C » : move it between 2 and 4 so that needle enters in the middle
of the folded fabric.
Knob " D " : on 4.
Presser foot: use hinged transparent foot for zig-zag, provided with blind-
stitching guide.
Check whether folded edge of fabric
«N» is in contact with blindstitching
guide. If stitches are visible on the
inner side of fabric " N » also, de-
crease zig-zag width; adjust position
of guide by means of screw " F »
(Fig. 60). The seam should appear
as shown in Fig. 60.
~2
Fig. 60
Chapter 3
AUTOMATIC
SEWING MECHANISM
42. TO PREPARE THE CAMS
C9
Fig. 61
b) LOOSE CAMS
a) THREE-CAM GROUPS
The cam-group being already
assembled (Fig. 61), there is
only to insert it in machine.
- Choose first cam and slip it onto cam-holder bushing
" E " (Fig. 62). The face of the cam on which the
chosen number i~ . stamped must be turned upwards.
- Slip second and third cams in the same manner and
tighten nut " F ».
F~
3@~
2~
1~
Ea
Fig. 62
NOTE: To make the patterns illustrated in the following charts turn mark
lines " r " stamped on each cam face in the same direction.
By turning mark lines " r » in different directions, different patterns are
obtained.
33

43. TO INSERT CAMS INTO MACHINE
-Move lever « L >~ (Fig. 63) to
the left.
-
Open lid • M » and slip cam
group onto cam driving pin uN •.
-Move lever « L » back to the
right, so that it is flush with ma-
chine arm.
a-A
-- ~
L
- Turn knob «A» on desired num-
ber . The length of designs in-
creases
from 1 to 4.
Fig. 63
44. TO REMOVE CAMS FROM MACHINE
-Move lever « L n (Fig, 63) to the left, open lid « M » and remove cam
group from driving pin.
-Move
lever « L n back to the right, so that it is flush with the machine
arm.
T• •R
"
A
Fig. 64
45. TO STOP MOTION OF AUTOMATIC
MECHANISM
- Turn knob " A » (Fig. 64) until diamond
mark " R » appears through its small
window.
Rotate balance wheel for a complete turn.
- Turn knob again until triangular mark
" T » appears through small window.
To connect automatic mechanism again, turn button " A » on desired number
between 4 and 1.
34
46. USE OF THE SELECTOR DEVICE
The device incorporated in the faces of the accessory box cover makes it
possible to select automatically the instructions necessary for the execution
of
some patterns.
l!'ig . 65
B \A
47. FOOT FOR RAISED SCALLOPS
Disc group: use either round scallop
disc
group 0-0-24 or pointed scallop
disc-group, no. IV.
Needle position lever: in left notch.
Zig-Zag width lever: on 2 or more
according to string thickness.
Stitch length knob: at red mark. Fig. 66
Presser foot: use raised scallop
presser foot.
- B r in g desired
pattern in cor-
respondence
with window
• B • by turning
knurled dial
•A• Fig. 65).
- The instructions
necessary for the
execution of the
pattern will ap-
pear through the
other small
windows made
on the cover.
Use pearl cotton no. 8 of the same colour as t he thread, insertinfi it in the
hole of the presser foot base aad pulling it ba .:: kward under same.
To
make fine scalloping, use pe arl cotton n o. 12, leaving the zig-zag width
always above 2.
For very light fabrics and to make " false lace » reinforce fabric with tissue
paper.
Start sewing by operating the machine slowly and taking care to hand-
guide the string, holding it from front side of foot, for two or three stitches,
to
insure that the string should be covered immediately. Then leave it taking
care that it should run regularly without b := ing tightened in the foot base
hole and that it should sew normally.
35

48. AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLES
The special cam-group for
buttonholes may be turned in
respect of its handle in two
different positions: one for
buttonholes on heavy fabrics
(marked by a large button-
hole) and the other for button-
holes on light fabrics (marked
with a small buttonhole).
To change
from one position to another:
G
Fig . 67
- Press cam-group as shown on Fig. 67 and bring index • G » in correspon-
dence
with the desired buttonhole.
- When it is in the correct position, a click will be heard and the cam
group will remain fixed.
a) TO MAKE BUTTONHOLE
Stop the automatic mechanism (see para. 45) and set machine as follows:
- Lever • B » (Fig. 1): in left notch .
- Lever • C »: on the left.
-Knob « D » : on red s quare mark . Ch e ck correct position by trying out
on a piece of fabric similar to the fabric on which buttonhole is to be
made.
-Needle: for light fabr ics: no . 70 (10); fo r hea vy fabrics no. 90 (14).
-Upper thread: mercerized cotton no. 40.
- Lower thread : mercerized cotton no. 50.
-Tension: for light fabrics, on 5; for hea vy fabrics tensions s hould be tighter .
-Presser foot: use transparent foot provided with guide for buttonhol es;
regulate position of guide in accordance with the desired length of button-
hole.
Now
proceed as follows:
-
Insert cam-group into machine (Fig. 68).
- With needle in its highest position, bring handle in position 1 (handle
completely on the left) Fig. 68 .
-
Make upper bar tack with 3 or 4 stit ches.
36
- Move handle to position 2 and make first
row of stitches; stop when upper bar
tack is in contact with presser foot guide.
-
Move handle to position 3; machine will
sew in reverse with straight stitches.
Stop when needle reaches upper bar
tack.
& - Move handle to position 4 and make se-
Fig. 68
cond row of stitches; stop when needle is
out of fabric.
-
Move handle to position 5 and make
lower bar tack with 3 or 4 stitches;
buttonho le is then completed.
-
Remove work and knot the two threads together on the underside of
fabric.
-
Cut fabric between the two rows of stitches with NECC!Il buttonhole
cutter (Fig, 59).
b ) FLAT-STITCHED BUTTONHOLES
Proceed as described in preceding paragraph with the following exceptions:
-Upper tension: set on 4, thread no. 50.
- Lower tension: normal, thread no. 50.
49 . AUTOMATIC BLINDSTITCHING
Proceed as described in para. 41 but
wi th the following machine setting:
-Cam group: no. V.
- Knob "A» (Fig. 1): on 1.
- Lever « B » : in left notch.
- Lever " C » : on the left.
- Knob «D»: on 2. Fig.
69
NOTE : If the seam appears on the inner side of folded fabric also, adjust the
position of guide by means of scr ew " F » (Fig. 69).
37