NWA3D Afinibot A31 User manual

NWA3D A31 User Manual
1. 3D Printer Parts Diagram
2. Assembly
3. Fine Tuning
4. Leveling the Build Plate
5. Loading and Unloading Filament
6. Operation: The Four Steps of 3D Printing
7. Troubleshooting
8. Glossary of 3D Printing Terms
9. Additional Resources
© 2018 NWA3D LLC Version 2.1

NWA3D A31 User Manual
1. 3D Printer Parts Diagram
FRONT
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BACK
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NWA3D A31 User Manual
2. Assembly
1. Remove the parts from the box and remove any tape and padding from the
parts. Inspect the parts to make sure they were not damaged in shipment.
Packing list:
●Base frame
●Gantry frame
●Power & control box
●Power cord
●M5x20 machine screw (4)
●Washer (4)
●Frame reinforcement plates (2)
●Spool holder bracket
●Spool holder tube
●Spool holder thumb screws (2)
●Sample spool of filament
●USB–miniUSB cable
●Maintenance tool kit
●Scraper
●Nozzle cleaner
●microSD card with USB adapter
●Spare parts bag with extra fasteners, nozzle, and Bowden tube coupler
2. Install the gantry frame (A) to the base frame (B).
a. On the gantry frame, make sure the nozzle assembly is on the front, and
the long vertical lead screw is on the back. On the base frame, make sure
the black belt cover is on the front, and the motor is on the back.
b. Use the M5x20 screws (4) and lock washers (4). Raise the base frame
above the table with two blocks (boxes, books, etc.) Install the screws
through the base frame into the threaded holes in the gantry frame.
Tighten with the M5 hex key (Allen) wrench.
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A B
3. Install the two T-shaped frame reinforcement plates. The plate with a limit
switch goes on the left (the side with the leadscrew). The plate with no limit
switch goes on the right.
a. Loosen the t-nuts by hand so that they will fit into the grooves on the
frames. You want the nuts to be loose so that when you tighten the bolts,
the nuts will rotate 90°C and grab onto the inside of the groove.
b. Align the nuts to the grooves and insert the T-shaped plates into the
frames.
c. Tighten all eight bolts using the M4 hex key (Allen) wrench.
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4. Attach the Bowden tube coming out of the hot end to the brass tube coupler
on the extruder. Firmly push the tube into the connector on the extruder. You
should feel it slide in and lock into place.
5. Install the filament spool holder.
a. Attach the bracket to the top of the power & control box using two
thumbscrews. Tighten the screws by hand. Do not overtighten.
b. Remove the nut from one side of the filament holder tube. Install the tube
into the bracket and re-install the nut to hold it in place. Tighten the nut
by hand so that the tube is snugly attached to the bracket. Do not
overtighten.
c. Tighten the nut on the other end of the tube by hand. Do not overtighten.
6. Place the power & control box on the left side of the base plate, as shown in
the image on Page 1 of this manual.
7. Connect all electrical cables.
a. On the right side of the power & control box, make sure the voltage select
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switch reads “110V.” If it doesn’t, select “110V” by gently sliding the
switch with a screwdriver or other tool.
b. Connect the heater cables to the power & control box.
The cable for the build plate heater has four pins. The cable for the nozzle
heater has eight pins. Rotate the connector until the pins slide easily into
the socket. Do not force them. After the pins are fully inserted,
hand-tighten the knurled nuts so they won’t become unplugged.
c. Connect the motor and limit switch cables.
The Y cables go to the motor and switch at the back of the base frame that
move the build plate. The Z cables go to the motor and switch on the left
side of the base frame that move the nozzle gantry. The X and E
(extruder) cables go onto the gantry frame. The X cables go to the motor
and switch that runs the belt and the E cable goes to the motor that feeds
the filament. Hint: Install the smaller limit switch connectors first. Small
hands are an advantage. Don’t bend the connectors as you push them in.
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d. Connect the power cord to the back of the power & control box and to a
standard 110-volt electrical outlet.
e. Turn the power on using the switch is on the back of the power & control
box.
f. To operate the controls, rotate the button to scroll and push the button to
select.
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3. Fine Tuning
1. Adjust the tension of the build plate assembly on the Y-axis on the base
frame.
a. Check the tension of the build plate assembly. Hold the build plate
carriage under the build plate and try to wiggle it left and right. If the
build plate assembly wiggles back and forth on the Y-axis frame, it is too
loose.
b. To tighten the build plate assembly, rotate the three eccentric nuts that
connect the three wheels to the right side of the build plate assembly. Use
the open-end wrench to rotate the nuts slightly—a quarter turn is usually
enough—until each of the three wheels is tight against the Y-axis frame
and the carriage no longer rotates.
c. Re-check the tension of the build plate assembly. The assembly and the
belt should move forward and backward without much effort, but there
should have no side-to-side wiggle or play.
2. Adjust the tension of the gantry on the right pillar of the gantry frame.
a. Check the tension of the gantry assembly at the right pillar of the frame.
Hold the gantry and try to wiggle it up and down. If the gantry wobbles on
the right pillar frame, it is too loose.
b. To tighten the gantry, rotate the one eccentric nut that connects the
wheel to the inside of the gantry. Use the open-end wrench to rotate the
nut slightly—a quarter turn is usually enough—until the wheel is snug
against the frame pillar and the gantry no longer wobbles.
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c. Re-check the tension of the gantry by rotating the leadscrew. The gantry
should move up and down smoothly, and there should be no wobble,
play, or “chatter” on the right side of the gantry.
3. Adjust the tension of the nozzle assembly on the X-axis on the gantry frame.
a. Check the tension of the nozzle assembly. Hold the mounting bracket
behind the nozzle and try to wiggle it back and forth. If the nozzle
assembly wobbles on the X-axis frame, it is too loose.
b. To tighten the nozzle assembly, rotate the one eccentric nut that connects
the wheel to the bottom of the nozzle assembly. Use the open-end wrench
to rotate the nut slightly—a quarter turn is usually enough—until the
wheel is tight against the X-axis frame and the assembly no longer
wobbles.
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c. Re-check the tension of the nozzle assembly. The assembly and the belt
should move left and right without much effort, but there should have no
side-to-side wiggle or play.
4. Check the tension of the belt driving the Y-axis (under the build plate). The
belt should be taut, with no slack or slop. If the belt is loose:
a. Loosen the four bolts at the front of the base frame holding the belt
follower pulley to the base frame.
b. Using an Allen wrench as a lever, push the follower pulley away from the
frame to tighten the belt.
c. Holding the belt taut, tighten the four bolts.
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5. Check the tension of the belt driving the X-axis (on the gantry). The belt
should be taut, with no slack or slop. If the belt is loose:
a. Loosen the two bolts at the right side of the gantry holding the belt
follower pulley to the gantry.
b. Using an Allen wrench as a lever, push the follower pulley to tighten the
belt.
c. Holding the belt taut, tighten the two bolts.
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4. Leveling the Build Plate
Video Tutorial: How to level the build plate
To 3D print good parts, the build plate needs to be level and at the correct
distance from the nozzle. If it’s too close to the nozzle, the nozzle will dig into the
build surface, or the melted plastic will not be able to come out of the nozzle. If
it’s too far from the nozzle, the part will not stick to the build surface or will
warp.
If you use blue painter’s tape as your print surface, the nozzle needs to be about
0.10mm from the build plate in all locations. This is about the thickness of a
single sheet of copier paper. If you use a LokBuild print surface, the nozzle needs
to be about 0.20–0.25mm from the build plate in all locations. This is about the
thickness of two sheets of copier paper (or one sheet folded in half to double its
thickness).
You want to adjust the height of the build plate so that you can slide the paper
between the nozzle and the build plate with some resistance. You should feel the
paper vibrating and dragging when you move it between the nozzle, but not so
close that the copier paper buckles.
1. Select Setup > Auto home. This will move the nozzle to the home position at
the front left corner of the build plate, where the X, Y, and Z axis are set to
0,0,0.
2. When the motors stop, select Setup > Disable motors. This will allow you to
move the hot end of the extruder assembly (X axis) and build plate (Y axis)
by hand.
Pro Tip: The Z axis motor is also disabled, and you don’t want it
to move at all. So you should handle the printer gently during the
leveling process. Keep it on a flat surface and move the nozzle
assembly carefully.
3. For painter’s tape print surfaces, slide a piece of copier paper between the
nozzle and the build plate. For LokBuild print surfaces, first fold the paper in
half to double its thickness, then slide it between the nozzle and build plate.
4. Move the hot end (X axis) and build plate (Y axis) so that the nozzle is
directly above one of the four adjustment nuts under the bed. Adjust the nut
until the paper slides with just a tiny bit of drag, then move the nozzle and
repeat the process at the other three nut locations.
5. Repeat Steps 1–4 until the amount of tension on the paper is consistent at all
locations, including the center of the build plate.
6. The first layer of the print will show whether the distance between the
nozzle and build plate is correct. Refer to the following graphic for clarity.
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a. If the bed is too high, the extruded plastic will squeeze out the sides of the
nozzle. The nozzle will plow the plastic and leave a first layer that is too
thin. Or it may be so close that no plastic is extruded at all.
b. If the bed is too low, the extruded plastic may not stick to the build plate.
Even if it does stick to the build plate, parallel lines of filament on the first
layer will look mounded, with gaps in between them.
Pro Tip: You can “Hot Level” your printer by carefully adjusting the nuts
during the first layer of the build while the plate is moving until the distance
between the build plate and the nozzle is producing smooth extruded lines.
Be careful of the moving parts to not get pinched. After you have fine-tuned
the bed level during the first layer, you may want to stop the build, clear the
build plate, and restart the build so it will look better on the bottom.
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5. Loading and Removing Filament
Video Tutorial: How to remove clogs, load, and change filament
1. Loading filament
a. Load a spool of filament into the spool holder.
b. Cut the end of the filament at an angle so the irregular melted plastic at
the end doesn’t cause a clog. It will also be easier to feed into the extruder
and Bowden tube.
c. Feed the end of the filament into the extruder by hand as you squeeze the
extruder release lever.
d. Push the filament all the way through the Bowden tube until it stops
when it hits the back of the nozzle.
e. Select Setup > Preheat PLA.
f. When the printer is fully heated, you may want to remove all of the
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filament color left in the printer from previous prints before you start a
new print. To do this, manually push filament through the extruder as you
squeeze the extruder release lever until the new color starts coming out
of the nozzle.
Pro Tip: Never leave the printer preheated with material
inside of it when it is not printing. The filament will bake
inside of the nozzle assembly and create a clog.
2. Removing filament
To remove the filament cleanly, you should do a “soft pull.” This involves
heating the nozzle to 100°C, and then pulling the filament out of the printer.
a. Select Setup > Preheat soft pull and wait until the nozzle to reach the set
temperature.
b. Wait a minute for the temperature to become stable.
c. When the nozzle temperature is a stable 100°C, squeeze the extruder
release lever and pull the filament out of the extruder with a steady, firm
motion.
d. Cut the end of the filament to remove irregular melted plastic at the end.
Pro Tip: Feed the end of the filament roll into the hole
on the side of the spool. This will insure it doesn’t get
tangled and cause a build to fail the next time you use it.
e. Remove the filament from the filament spool holder.
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6. Operation: The Four Steps of 3D Printing
3D printing involves these four steps:
1. Create a 3D file (Make)
2. Slice the file for 3D printing (Slice)
3. Send the file to the printer (Transfer)
4. Select the file on the printer (Print)
1. Create or find a 3D file
a. You can create a 3D model—a digital geometry—using any CAD
(computer-aided design) software program. We recommend free
programs, such as TinkerCAD and OnShape. Autodesk’s Fusion360 is free
to students. Another is SketchUp, which has free licenses available for
schools. These programs take some time to learn, and can be challenging.
But they are also rewarding, especially when you see your own creation
being printed on your 3D printer!
Every CAD program allows users to save or export digital files for 3D
printing. You want to save your file as an STL file (“filename.stl”). The STL
file is the standard file format for 3D printing. In some programs, it’s as
easy as the Save command. In others, you need to select the File > Export
option, and choose the STL format. OBJ files can also be sliced and 3D
printed.
b. You can find 3D models in many online libraries of digital content.
Thingiverse, GrabCAD, and Instructables are examples, and many other
sites exist.
2. Slice the file for 3D printing
Video Tutorial: How to set up Cura 3.1
Slicing is the process of converting your 3D model into the layered print
language your printer can understand, called G-Code. We recommend using
free, open-source slicer programs. Our favorite slicers are Ultimaker Cura
and Repetier Host. Both are free and easy to use. We’ve included Cura and its
setup profile on your printer’s SD card because it’s easier for beginners. For
beginning users, we recommend that you install Cura on a PC or Mac and use
it to do your slicing.
There are a lot of slicers that will create G-Code automatically for your
printer. All you have to do is input the correct settings for your printer (using
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the files we included), import your 3D model, and save the G-Code. It’s that
easy!
a. Install Ultimaker Cura on a PC or Mac (both the .exe and .dmg versions
are included on your microSD card).
b. Open the Cura application. When it’s opened for the first time, you’ll see
the “Add Printer” window. Select “Custom > Custom FDM machine.” In the
lower left, type “NWA3D A31” for the printer name, and then click the
“Add Printer” button on the lower right.
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